Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

moeharri · November 2005

Any chance that you are hearing the gas "swishing" around? I hear this once in a while, but I don't know that this would be loud enough compared to what you're hearing.

lwblue · November 2005

Please see #4252. It might be the answer.

jackwinans · November 2005

2003 Camry. Have had the same problem intermittently since I got the car. Seems to happen only when I park with the wheels turned far to the left.

moeharri · November 2005

I also seem to have this annoyance about once every other month or so and it is also when I have the wheels turned far to one direction (haven't paid attention to which direction). It is easy enough to fix by simply turning the steering wheel to the left or right a bit and voila, it starts right up.

PS I have a 2005 XLE 4 cylinder.

tinatina · November 2005

This sounds normal. The steering wheel self-locks when the steering wheel is turned to the far left or to the far right. Check the manual under steering wheel locking (or something to that effect). It does it with my Toyota truck, Honda Accord, and my cousin's Corolla.

nascar36 · November 2005

i have a toyota camry and the brake lights are not working. the parking lights part of the bulbs are working. i checked all the fuses ion the car, where should i go from here? any help is great full.

user777 · November 2005

i believe hondas do an ABS system self-test at that particular moment. any chance the toyotas do something similar at the same time, when first starting off?

210delray · November 2005

Camrys do have a self-test for the ABS, making a very faint noise while doing so. Here is my post #4252 addressing this problem:

If the noise happens only once after starting, before you get up to about 10 mph, then it's the antilock brake system doing a self-check. If you have one of the 7% of 2005 Camrys with electronic stability control, you may be hearing its self-check.

Nothing to worry about. I don't hear it on my '05 Camry, but it was definitely noticeable on my '90 Mercury Sable.

210delray · November 2005

Second opinion: Before we start discussing lemon laws, arbitration, and trading the car for another, you need to answer these questions:

1. Did you have a V6 Camry before (the one that was totaled)?

2. Do you now have a 4-cylinder?

If so, I'd assume the V6 is somewhat smoother than the 4-cylinder. I say "assume" because I've only had 4-cylinder Camrys and they've always been perfectly smooth and quiet for me.

If you're not satisfied and think there might be a problem, first check the oil level and correct if necessary. Then if the problem still exists, you need to return IMMEDIATELY to the selling dealer. Try out one or more 2005 (or 2006) Camrys with the SAME engine (and automatic transmission) to be sure yours isn't any louder than the comparison cars. The '06 Camry is identical to the '05.

You don't have to worry about different levels of sound insulation in the various models, because there isn't any difference, from the base Standard model, through the most popular LE, the sporty SE, and on to the top-of-the-line luxury XLE.

If your car really is louder, first attempt to have the dealer diagnose and repair the problem -- the repair will be free because it's clearly going to be under warranty.

If you mistakenly bought the 4-cylinder and now really want the V6, then you'll have to accept some monetary loss for the car you trade in. But think twice before giving up the 4-cylinder: it gets superior gas mileage and costs about $2000 less up front. The 4-cylinder is perfectly adequate in terms of power also.

Good Luck!

210delray · November 2005

Your problem can't be diagnosed without more detailed information. The most obvious cause of the problem, without more detail, is a dead battery.

210delray · November 2005

wwest: I know you have strong opinions about this subject, but I am kindly requesting a simple, short, plain English answer.

This is my first Toyota (an '05 Camry) with the automatic climate control. At outside air temperatures of about 40 degrees (F) and below, should I simply set the controls to "auto" and dial in the desired cabin temperature, on cold startup, or even after the engine has fully warmed?

If the a/c light comes on, should I then manually turn off the a/c (again, outside temp 40 deg. or below)?

Or are you saying to use to always use the manual mode and select the desired temperature and mode (floor, windshield, dash vents, etc.) depending on my preference and whether the inside of the glass is starting to fog up?

I have a garage, so the car won't have frost on the outside of the glass in the winter. The garage very rarely gets below 32 degrees.

Thanks!

typesix · November 2005

If you do not get any indication of rear brake light being out on dash lights, check the brake light switch. However, if you have an auto tranny, then the brake light switch would also affect the tranny interlock, not allowing the shifter to be moved out of park if sticking or bad. There is also a brake light module which I believe is in the trunk and could also be the culprit.

may3 · November 2005

Have a 97 Toyota Camry (134,000 Miles) that had the Head gasket and Timing belt replaced. After driving for 50-75 miles, the Check Engine Light comes on (computer says misfire) and when the car is stopped and idling the idle is rough and you can hear misfiring in the tail pipe. The mechanic has replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires (twice) and resets the computer but after approximately 50-75 miles the Check engine light comes on again and the same symptons are repeated. The mechanic says the Computer reports misfire is on the same cylinder each time, cylinder 4 I believe. He says pressure in cylinder is OK. He thinks maybe the coil might be bad now.

Any help would be appreciated since the mechanic is at his wits end now!!

pepck · November 2005

Hi, I have a 1990 Camry Wagon that has a problem starting the first time I try to start it,once it is going for awhile it is fine. I have to pump the gas a lot and once it starts, it will idle okay but when I accelerate it will stall out, sometimes it helps to put it in a lower gear, it is an automatic with fuel injection. Does anybody know what this could be? I've had it to several mechanics, the first one said I had bad gas, another changed the fuel pump and said I needed a new gas tank. Thanks for any input on this. pepck

wwest · November 2005

May I answer the question along the lines of best fuel and optimum HVAC operation?

Go to your dealer and have the two C-best options set so that when you manually turn off the A/C compressor it remains off indefinitely until you manually turn it back on.

Leave it off when the OAT is consistently low enough that you have no need for the A/C for cooling purposes.

If cooling mode, coolish airflow primarily from the dash or combined dash and footwell, doesn't discomfort you then don't bother to manually switch it into heating mode until the OAT declines below about 47F.

Below about 47F the need to keep the interior surface of the windshield above the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere begins to be important so it will be a good idea to remember to manually switch the system to heating mode when OAT's are in that range.

If the interior surface of your windshield ever tends to fog over even slightly that is an indication that the temperature of the windshield surface has declined, or is declining, to the dewpoint. Dewpoint is the temperature at which otherwise invisible moisture molecules in the air begin to condense into droplets, fog in the open air, condensate on COLD surfaces such as your windshield might very well be.

Should that happen the only sure and certain way to remove the condensate quickly is by heating the airflow, thereby dramatically lowering the relative humidify of that airflow. That low humidity heated airflow across the windshield surface will help to quickly clear the windshield of condensate while at the same time heating the windshield itself above the dewpoint.

To do that you will need to turn the temperature setpoint to MAX HEAT and then activate the defrost/defog/demist mode. Once the windshield has cleared you may return the system to your normal operating temperature but be sure it is in footwell, heating mode. If you should need to repeat the defogging sequence later then maybe you should now operate the system in footwell/windshield combined airflow mode to allow a greater portion of the airflow to the windshield for more warming than before.

Since your's is an 05 your climate control likely already has the feature that results in it automatically switching to footwell/windshield combined mode if the OAT declines below ~34F. If you have the c-best option set and have already disabled the A/C then this action will represent no threat, otherwise be prepared for a potential incident of sudden windshield fogging within the new few minutes.

iraqicamryguy · November 2005

How r u again my friend am sorry its take me too long to e-mail you again but finally I found someone can get me the error codes for my XLE Camry V6-2000 if you remember me, any way I got these codes shown below:
1- P0303 Ignition failure cylinder
2- P0171 B1 Mixture too lean
3- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater
4- P0440 Evap. emiss. control system
5- P0441 Evap. emiss. Sys. Flow in correct
6- P0446 Evap. emiss. syst. Vent. circ
7- P1130 O2 Sensor Circuit range B1 S1
8- P1150 O2 Sensor Circuit range B2 S1
9- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater

So if you can help me to explain what exactly I need to do to fix all these faults and if you can help me to get a kind of fults explanation paper or book so I can know what's the problem before I go to the mechanics and I appreciate any kind of help.
Thanks

typesix · November 2005

More likely to be sensor problem and cold start injector timer. Cold start injector timer tells a separate cold start injector to squirt extra fuel to aid in engine cold start and the timer is a common replacement as it drifts out of factory value. Stalling after the start may be sensor related, check coolant temp sensor,idle air control valve(engine should idle fast on cold start for a minute or two depending on temp). These are some of the common parts that need to be checked by a mech who is familiar with engine control systems.

joshali · November 2005

I have a question: I know for toyotas, that automatic transmission fluid (dexron) is used in place of power steering fluid; if one wants to put some Slick50 in with the power steering fluid, I assume that the correct one to use for toyotas is the Slick50 for ATF, rather than the Slick50 for power steering fluid. Is this correct?

pepck · November 2005

Is it possible that it could be an ignition coil? Thanks for your help, Paula

210delray · November 2005

I'd recommend NOT using Slick50 at all. Toyota itself advises against using any additives in any of the fluids.

typesix · November 2005

Doubt it but it would not hurt to check it out as some owners(not me)have had to replace them. Some owners have had the coil stall the car only after warmup,as the heat expanded the coil and connections were lost. Another common thing for me are the sparkplug cables needing replacement, I have gone thru 5 sets in 224k miles for my 89 Camry 4 cyl. That could cause stalling or rough running.

210delray · November 2005

Thanks very much for the information.

However, there's no way I'm going to let a dealer alter my car. I can just imagine their expressions when I tell them about "C best" options.

From what you're saying, under cooler ambient conditions if/when the windshield begins to fog up, I should:

1. Switch to defrost mode (which simultaneously cuts out recirculated air).

2. Turn up the heat to max.

3. Turn up the fan to full blast.

4. If on, turn off the a/c (keeping in mind that the compressor may still operate).

Is this correct?

wwest · November 2005

Just wrong order....

1. Turn the heat to max.

2. The blower speed should rise to max once you raise the temperature setpoint or manually to max. Obviously if it doesn't then do so manually.

3. Now switch to defrost mode.

4. If the outside temperature is above ~50F and the A/C is on then leave it on, otherwise yes, turn it off.

If your windshield starts to fog over there is always a good chance that previous operation of the A/C, even as long ago as yesterday, is at fault.

Let me explain.

If you drive from a fairly warm area, above freezing at least, the A/C might operate and as it does condensate will accumulate onto the chilled evaporator vanes. When the A/C shuts down due to the outside temperature declining to freezing, or even because you have defrost on previously and have now turned it off, the previously accumulated condensate will begin to evaporate into the incoming fresh airflow.

So the last thing you wish to do in this instance is activate the defrost/defog/demist mode before making sure that the airflow about to strike the windshield has been heated and thereby has a low relative humidity.

wwest · November 2005

C-best...dealer alterations...

Your choice, but otherwise if you live in an area such as I do, the Pacific Northwest, where the climate is often cool and humid, you really are needlessly risking your life and your passengers.

bildow · November 2005

On your cold start problem there is a sensor that I believe is called the cold start sensor. It senses the out side temp and enriches the gas for the fuel injection. I had a 90 camry and found this was my problem also have you tried a good fuel injection cleaner about 2-3 bottles in a 3/4 tank of gas also does you car get a good run on the open road to clean out the engine. Also check your distributor cap and rotor and make sure they are in good working order and also if your plug wires are old they could be breaking down under load these can sometime cause cold start problems. Also check your plugs if they are old they can also break down under cold starts. Hope this helps finding the problem

anna1 · November 2005

I just bought a '98 Toyota Camry LE. I use the driver's door to lock, and unlock, all the doors. Recently however, despite the doors all being unlocked, it has been impossible to open the driver's door. I can open all the others, and then have to open the driver's door from inside (it is unlocked when I use the key). Has anyone else had this problem? And if so, did you manage to fix it on your own? I was planning on getting a Haynes manual to see whether I could sort it out.

bpsmicro · December 2005

Do you mean that the outside door handle on the driver's door is *always* non-functional?
I had that problem once, and it was a small plastic clip on one of the rods inside the door. If you pull apart the inner lining and look inside, you'll see it's basically a few metal rods & levers doing all the work. In my case the clip that attaches the rod to the actual door handle had cracked. A real PITA to get at, but I just tie-wrapped it back together and it worked well after that.

anna1 · December 2005

It sounds like the same problem - and also when I wound the driver door window up/down it made a horrible crunching/scraping noise. I assume there's something broken in the door lock mechanism.

210delray · December 2005

Thanks for the info. I will follow your steps in the order given. I forgot with the auto mode, the blower speed will rise as I raise the temperature.

Without belaboring the issue too much, wouldn't this fogging over problem occur in any car with A/C, at least shortly after cold startup?

I know in my old Volvo 240, I learned to run the A/C and heat together through the floor or dash vents before I switched to defroster mode because the inside of the windshield would fog up in cool damp weather.

And no, I don't want dealers tampering with my car. Luckily, we don't get the cool/damp/foggy weather all that often in central Virginia.

bildow · December 2005

Only use automatic transmission fluid don't use slick50 for anything including your engine. I use mobil one ATF in my power steering and never had a problem and had the rack and power steering pump last 300,000 miles on 2 toyota's mobil one is synthetic transmission fluid and I also use in my transmission on the older toyota.

dslove44 · December 2005

I have an 02 Camry, about 54,000 miles. Just found out I need a new timer/drive belt. According to the maintenance books, this belt is "checked" at 60,000 miles. Is this normal based on city/freeway driving?

wwest · December 2005

Any dealer will also sell you a new engine if you're dumb enough to believe him when he says you need one.

210delray · December 2005

Is this a timing belt OR a drive belt (big difference between the two, costwise). If you have a 4-cylinder Camry, the timing belt was replaced by a chain starting with 2002 models, so it never needs replacement. On the V6 model, the timing belt should be replaced every 90,000 miles, and this will cost at least $200, mostly for labor.

If it's a drive belt, it should be checked periodically for wear, cracks, and proper tension, but you can do that yourself by looking at it and pressing against it with your finger between two pulleys. (The engine must not be running, of course.) Or a service shop can do it at the major maintenance intervals for essentially no extra cost.

allencali · December 2005

I just test drove a new camary and felt that shifting gear in transmission is taking too long and searching compare to older camaries with 4speed transmission it feels difference, any comment? id this normal?

bildow · December 2005

I have a 2005 camry and it does search due to the transmission is now complety run by a computer. On the new camry it is drive by wire no throttle cable and no kick down cable( passing gear) everything is done by electronics. It just takes a little getting use to, I also have the five speed transmission and found it's better to leave it out of overdrive in town and bumper to bumper traffic. The new transmissions in the camry are slow in shifting but they tell me this is the way all the new trans work. Also the new transmissions take a special oil due to the way they are make toyota uses type 4 transmission fluid so don't use dexron 2 or 3 type when you change your trans fluid at 30,000 miles. :shades:

jay35 · December 2005

My wife's 92 Camry ignition lock cylinder developed a rough feel when using newly-cut ignition keys. The lock cylinder would rotate to Start position but would not start car. It felt like neither of the new keys were turning smoothly, nor completely, and I suspect the keys damaged pins in the cylinder.

Now when we try to original Toyota key, the lock won't turn at all. Based on mssgs posted here, I have tried pulling hard on the locked steering wheel in both directions, changing tilt on steering wheel, and have tried turning the lock with transmission shifted to Neutral using manual override button, but key still will not turn at all.

I think the ignition lock needs to be replaced, but cannot turn key to ACC position to depress release button for lock removal. How can I get key to turn to ACC position? Anything else suggested in troubleshooting would be appreciated.

haefr · December 2005

Part of the computerized transmission control logic parameters are algotithms which allow the computer to tailor itself to the particular driving habits of the principle driver. Doing so takes time - as much as several months. Coincidenatlly, new band and clutch facing materials are not burnished to their final finish against the parts with which they're in contact during shifts. It would be perfectly logical for the manufacturer to set the shift patterns up on the "sluggish" side of permittable initially to allow an easy break-in of these clutch facings over the first 100 or so miles. The upshot is that, once broken-in, if the driver routinely engages in "sport" greenlight-grand-prix starts, the transmission will "learn" to accomodate with quicker shifting patterns. Likewise, the reverse is true for more sedate drivers. Once the driving style of the principle driver is established, further refinements are ongoing to compensate for the inevitable wear of the friction facings in bands and clutches. In other words, the tranny will continue to maintain the "learned" shift quality patterns without periodic servicing adjustments until it tanks. If the car changes ownership prior to meltdown, the tranny will learn the habits of the new owner over time - or faster if the TCM fuse is removed or the battery's negative terminal is disconnected for several minutes.

dslove44 · December 2005

Thanks for the insight. I do have a V6 and its both the timing and drive belts according to the repair recommendation. I have a friend who experienced a similar repair at about 60,000 miles or so. Is the water pump a factor in any of this??

biigdaddy22 · December 2005

Hey guys!! I got a prob that I was wondering if you guys could help me with!! On my automatic seat belts (shoulder Strap) on the drivers side has been having problems, before when opening the door, it would grind along the tract and stop, this didn't bother me too much, but now its stuck, it will not move back what so ever to cover my chest, ive even tried pressing that black rubber thing on the inner door and still nothing. my drivers side door is the opposite, it stays back and wont move forward which is fine cause it covers my chest when im passing a cop lol, but I have no idea what the problem could be!! Can you guys please help a guy out, id really appreciate it thanks

Big Daddy

joe122 · December 2005

Indeed, but it's a bit more complex than that. For example this algorithm:

"The KGPD algorithm is composed of a driving environments and driver's intentions estimator, the shift schedules for each typical driving environment and driver's intention situations, and an inference logic to determine the most proper gear position for the present situation. The estimator identifies the driving environments and features of driver's intentions, which are divided into some typical patterns. Based on the identified results, the gear-position inference algorithm calculates the best gear position at the moment. In fact, the method just simulates the course of a driver's making gear-position decision when driving an automobile with manual transmission. The test results show that the AMT with the method gives less unnecessary shifting, conducts more proper gear positions, and behaves better in subjective assessment than that with the method that is directly based only on automotive state parameters."

hippiechik · December 2005

Hey, got a hand-me-down 1995 camry from my grandparents. But when i got it they notified me that the cigarette lighter had stopped working suddenly when they had one of those little car vaccums plugged into it. But they didn't bust the fuse cuz the fuse is linked to the radio too which is still working and there are no burnt fuses. Friends have suggested that the vaccuum may have been pushed in too far or that the lighter assembly may have overheated and something behind where i can see may have melted. i don't want to start taking the whole thing apart or paying someone to do so unless i have a better idea of why the lighter just doesn't work at all.

Also, the antenna in recent years had stoppped retracting when it was turned off... over the summer i noticed that if you someone pushes it down a little when the antenna motor starts up, it retracts and then will extend the next time the car is started, making a very loud grinding noise when it's done extending. Only problem is, you have to go back and push it down again to get it to retract again.

If anyone has had these problems, or knows anything that might help me figure out what needs to be fixed before i pay through the nose for someone to open everything up, i'd really appreciate the info!

allencali · December 2005

I had same problem with my '03 camary when it was new pull me to right, after return to dealer and they spent hours to inspect every little detail they found the problem, guess what was that? just tire pressue!!! check that

allencali · December 2005

so in other word it means that it takes a while that new transmission logic get used to new driver and shifting gear smoother?

siwel · December 2005

turtlejames,

Have you figured out any solution or even the cause of your sloshing sounds? I took the car to a Toyota dealer and they had a sr. technician look at it. His recommendation was to tear apart the dash and look around. That sounds like $$$$ to me. Even though the car was under warranty, they would not confirm this would be covered. I called Toyota USA 800.331.4331, and spoke to Andrea. She had no clue, and discussed with the other techies. They had no clue either. Nobody at Toyota claims to ever had heard of this problem. So far I have experienced no problems other than annoyance.

cam2003

dancyd · December 2005

I own a 2000 Camry. Unfortunately when I bought it, it didn't come with an owners manual. My rear window defroster isn't working. Can anyone tell me what fuse or relay the defroster works off of? Also, my heater fan only works on high speed. Could this be a fuse or relay (if so, which one?), or a more serious electrical problem?

wwest · December 2005

Each time the ignition is turned off all driver related memory parameters are erased. Within a fairly short period of a "new" driver having started the car in motion the driver will have been automatically categorized in 1 or 4 driving style/types. After that the driver "parameters" will continue to be monitored and eventually categorized more finely into 1 of 16 driving styles/types. Thereafter a running record of (ONLY) the past three minutes will be kept in memory and the driver will be re-categorized "on the fly" if the need arises.

How else could the rental fleet "work"?

user777 · December 2005

this is mere speculation, but i think the cigaretter lighter is fused on both legs of the circuit: HOT side and ground. do you have a manual? if so, check to see if there is a 10A or 15A fuse in the fuse compartment specifically labeled for the cig lighter. that would be the one for the HOT side, which by the way, may not be operational unless the switch is in ACC or ON positions...not sure.

then it's possible there is also an "in-line" fuse in an "in-line" fuse holder, behind the dash going from the ground side of the cig lighter to vehicle ground. you'd have to reach around back there (or try moving the seats and using a mirror and flashlight). maybe removing the cig tray will make the wiring accessible. can't remember the configuration of the camry.

i doubt very much the radio and the cig lighter are on the same circuit from the fuse compartment.

btw, even if a fuse looks like it is OK, you don't know until you examine it closely, and perhaps check it with an ohm meter.

try to see if there is two fuses. best of luck.

stevedees · December 2005

my 2oo1 camry, with 110,000 mls cuts off or rough idles when coming to a stop or slowing down..the problem is intermittant so troubling shouting is difficult.. there are no codes, although on one occation it hard started and ck. eng light came on with p0300 code/cylinder misfire..... it will act up this week then may not see the problem until maybe next month...any help

stevedees · December 2005

yes, ihad the same issue with my 4runner anntena, you will have to buy an, antenna cause the vinyl pickup coil to retract and extend the antenna is broken... once u can hear the motor running when u switch on then the motor is ok.i installed mine myself, its not a bad job if u have some confidence... good luck..

camry97nj · December 2005

I have the same problem with my Camry 97 XLE. The engine won't start easily in cold weather even though the battery is fine. Could you tell me how do I locate the coil and how to replace it? thanks!

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions