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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hippiechikhippiechik Member Posts: 2
    my grandfather cheked the manual when the problem first occurred and that's where he saw that the radio was on the same fuse, so it's def not the fuse unless the cig. lighter only works when both are functioning and there's another one i haven't found yet. sounds like even if the lighter assembly/relay is busted it should be an easy fix for someone to do on their own if they knew what they were looking at right?
  • iraqicamryguyiraqicamryguy Member Posts: 7
    Hi every one I have XLE Camry V6-2000 if any one can help me to fix all these faults codes shown below:

    1- P0303 Ignition failure cylinder
    2- P0171 B1 Mixture too lean
    3- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater
    4- P0440 Evap. emiss. control system
    5- P0441 Evap. emiss. Sys. Flow in correct
    6- P0446 Evap. emiss. syst. Vent. circ
    7- P1130 O2 Sensor Circuit range B1 S1
    8- P1150 O2 Sensor Circuit range B2 S1
    9- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater

    Note:both of the TRAC OFF and Check eng. lights on.

    I need someone to explain what exactly I need to do to fix all these faults and if you can help me to get a kind of faults explanation paper or book so I can know what's the problem before I go to the mechanics because we don't have Toyota dealer in Iraq/Baghdad and I appreciate any kind of help.
    Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    even though your grandfather checked the manual and the fuse, please do so again. you need to become familiar with the manual and your vehicle anyway. this should be a simple check for you. i'm not saying don't believe him, but...everyone is human, and we've all made mistakes. i know i have. ;)

    it is possible there is a main fuse combined for both radio and cig lighter, but like i said, i doubt this very much - then again, i'm not an automotive expert. a sympathetic automotive parts store clerk might help you out... ask what an in-line fuse recepticle looks like if you are unfamiliar with them.

    as i said, i suspect there is also an in-line fuse (i.e. as part of the wiring) on the negative or ground side of the circuit, and it's probably not located far from the cig lighter recepticle. have you taken a look? i may be confusing you: a fuse in the fuse recepticle and also a fuse in inline with the wiring from the recepticle to ground. why would they do such a thing someone may ask? because, the manufacturer would want to protect against people attempting to power a wide range of devices via the cig lighter recepticle - with variations on the types of short-circuits either to the plus side or negative side of the battery. double fusing protects against a wider range of potential problems (at least this is how i understand it).

    doing this sort of checking, looking in the manual, examining the fuses (2), trying to troubleshoot the problem, researching replacements for and changing the antenna (as someone else suggested), all these things help you take real "ownership" of your vehicle and hopefully save you some $$$.

    edit:
    i went to google and used the following search term:
    +toyota +camry +wiring +diagram

    there was a hit for autoshop101
    select the toyota wiring diagram
    it does look like there may be a double-sided fused circuit (a main and in-line fuse) for the cig lighter outlet.

    you can do it! hope it helps. ;)
  • santacruz2santacruz2 Member Posts: 1
    Hey I have a 95 camry and all of the sudden while my sister had the car the signal lights stopped working at some point by the time she gave it back i checked all of the fuses they are all perfect i am wondering if there is maybe a fourth fuse box that might contribute that is semi hidden or maybe you know of an existing issue with this. Where would I begin my search for a short any suggestions would be great.
  • mh38mh38 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Toyota Camry Wagon that passed inspection recently, but have one tiny problem I can't figure out. This does not happen every day, but maybe a few times during the week. While I am driving, and reducing my speed, the car begins to tremble, and sometimes shuts off by itself. It only happens when I am reducing or coming to a stop. Any help???

    Thanks
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I am a little unclear. Do you have a problem right now (cracking belts or leaking fluids)?

    If not, the drive belts can be inspected at any time (you can do it yourself). I think the V6 still had multiple drive belts at that time, not one serpentine belt like the 4-cylinder. If there's evidence of cracking, glazing, or slipping, you should consider replacing them. If not, they can wait until you change the timing belt.

    The timing belt replacement is ordinarily done at 90,000 miles, so I suspect the dealer is suggesting s shorter interval. Go by the owner's manual, not the dealer.

    Some say that you may as well replace the water pump at the same time the timing belt is done, since it's very accessible at that point. Otherwise, if you wait till the water pump fails, then you have to repay for all the labor to get at it.

    OTOH, if you're going to trade in the car in another 30K miles or so beyond that, you might elect NOT to replace the water pump.
  • slim2slim2 Member Posts: 20
    I can't really tell from the manual when the Trans fluid fo my '03 Camry 4 cyl is due to be changed . Should service just be the 2 quart and filter change, or all the fluid changed out ?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Technically, if you go by the book, under normal service conditions, you never have to change it.

    However, most people here would disagree with that. Personally, I'd just drain and refill at about 30K mile intervals. Unbolt the plug to drain it, and fill with a narrow funnel through the dipstick tube.

    You get about half of the fluid out each time you do this. It used to be 2.5 quarts on my previous-generation '97 Camry with the 4-cyl, 4-speed auto. Your owner's manual will list the amount; also use the recommended Toyota-specific transmission fluid.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Or you can do as the dealers recommend, the honest ones anyway, and check the condition of the ATF each time the engine oil is changed. Mine was fine until almost 40,000 miles and then it turned dark and smelled slightly burned.
  • aaronh1aaronh1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Camry XLE and had a question about where I can get a missing screw…The other day, I started noticing something rattling at times underneath my car especially when I was on roads that weren't very smooth. In looking underneath my car, I noticed that there seems to be a screw missing that holds together, in the middle, 2 plastic pieces. I don't know what these pieces are called but I'll describe where it is. If you look underneath the car, these plastic pieces attach with screws to the back of the front bumper. These pieces extend back underneath the car a few feet (basically below the engine area). In looking where these 2 plastic pieces meet, I can see where a screw would have been but somehow it's not there now…Aside from where it attachs to the front bumper with regular screws, the other screws that attach this plastic piece and keep it up and in tact have big flat heads (about an inch in diameter)…Does anyone know which type of screw is supposed to attach the 2 middle plastic pieces together? Is this screw easy to find at an auto store? Thanks for any help people can provide.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    This is for the splash shield. The easiest thing (besides going to the dealer) is to remove one of the other identical screws and then take it to an auto parts place or hardware store and find a match.
  • another_personanother_person Member Posts: 93
    I'm not sure how to describe this, but here goes. After I start my '93, I4, XLE after it's been sitting for awhile, and start to turn the wheels, I hear a whining(grinding?) noise from outside the car when i go all the way right or left. Even if I'm not moving and am turning the wheels in place, all I have to do is hold the wheels all the way right or left, i hear the "noise". This only happens when I turn the wheels all the way right or left and usually is gone after 10 mins or so. There doesn't appear to be anything hitting anything else, and one of my friends thinks it might have something to do with the power steering system. any ideas?
  • kenm6kenm6 Member Posts: 14
    marce12, did you fix the problem?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Some noise at full turn-in lock is normal. It's just an internal pressure-relief valve doing its job. When the fluid is cold, the pressure would logically be at its highest since that's when the fluid is most viscous. Additionally, in certain PS systems, really cold weather brings out an initial squeal due to the shearing effect on the PS fluid when it's cold. It's harmless. (My Sonata grinds and howls like a banshee, but the owner's manual states it's normal when temps drop to -4 F. or below.) Just to be on the safe side, check the powersteering fluid level in its reservoir if you haven't done so lately. If it needs topping up, ANY automatic transmission fluid is perfectly fine.* Do NOT use motor oil, though. If it turns out you're low and need to top up, do several full lock-to-lock turn-ins with the engine idling afterword to work any trapped air out of the system. Avoid holding any full turn-in lock any longer than necessay.

    *except in Hondas and Acuras - those makes need a special Honda PS fluid.
  • gennadiygennadiy Member Posts: 1
    I have toyota camry,1995,6cylinders,3.0 engine. I do not have a manual.What type of gas I should use(87,89,91,93)
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    I'm betting a car that old only requires 87 octane, but, experiment. Run your car until it's almost empty and fill about half way with 87 octane unleaded regular. Drive the car a few days over mixed terrain. If the engine doesn't ping ascending grades, you're good to go with 87 octane. If you notice pinging, even "light" pinging, when ascending grades, finish filling the remaining tank volume with 91 octane. If doing that elliminates the pinging, fill afterwards with 89 octane. (87 + 91 = 178;
    178/2 = 89) However, if half-and-half 87 + 91 octane still pings when ascending grades, better use 91 octane for all future fill-ups. There is NO way you'll need to resort to 93 octane in that engine. (Go to a Toyota dealership's parts department and order a replacement owner's manual. There's no excuse to leave yourself in the dark about your car, its various features, and its service requirements.)
  • ebykebyk Member Posts: 7
    I have a 98 camry that has run 94000 miles. LAst week I had a compelete replacement of the EVAP system. Two days ago when i had taken it for inspection the computer threw out a code to a problem which my mechanic says is "O2 sensor lean". At the same time I have experienced a very peculiar problem. It only happened twice since the EVAP system was replaced last week. When I climb uphill i can see my RPM change from 2500 to 1500 and then the car struggles to bring it back to 2500. It feels as if the car will come to a halt immediately but has not done so. It bothers me. I will be taking it to Toyta tomorrow but would like to know if someone has had a similar problem. I would like to have a second opinion before the service guys at Toyota tells me to replace some costly stuff again. Please respond.
  • bwong06bwong06 Member Posts: 43
    They are usually clips and not screws. They have fallen off a couple times on my car mainly due to trama when i drive it. But anyways, i usually bring it to toyota during my oil changes and they put new clips in for free since they are cheap little things.
  • hampleehamplee Member Posts: 1
    I did a search on "accelerator" and found a lot of acceleration/hesitation problems. My problem is the accelerator itself. Most of the time it is easy to push down, but sometimes it will be very hard to push down. You can imagine how troubling this is, not knowing if it will go or not. I have looked under the accelerator to see if the carpet is causing the problem, but it is not even close to it. Anyone familiar with this problem? Thanks.
    This is a 2000 Camry.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Sounds like the cable may be binding in its sheath. Try having it lubed.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    It's likely that the throttle plate needs cleaning of carbon deposits. It's located where the rubber air intake hose from the air filter connects to the intake manifold. The plate and pivots need to be cleaned periodically with carb cleaner sprayed on a q-tip.
  • dgiscooldgiscool Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a toyota camy 2000 with 65K miles. The check engine light came on about few
    months back and I went to mechanic and he told me the problem was "EGR
    Valve Insufficient Oxygen Flow" after reading the computer code. But he
    said that I can wait for a while before replacing it. There after, the
    engine light goes on and off. I don't want to get it replaced if I can
    avoid it as the total cost would be around 350$. So, I want to ask the
    experts that:

    a) I've read that EGR valve can be cleaned. Can I clean it by using
    some fuel injector cleaner or some other thing?

    b) Will driving the car with this problem affect any other engine
    part/functioning?

    c) Can I replace the valve on my own and if yes, is there a
    manual/document that I can refer to?

    Please reply.

    Thanks,
    Deep
  • christinamchristinam Member Posts: 1
    When the weather turns cold (approx 30 degrees and below) the brake light on my dashboard goes on and off regardless how long I let my car warm up (in garage overnight). The brake pads were recently replaced and are in good condition. It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the car (drag) and all of the fluid levels are full. What is causing this..is it necessary to bring it to a mechanic or can I fix this myself?
  • naomi7naomi7 Member Posts: 2
    My keyless remote quit, I tried the second one also - it doesn't work either. Went to dealership - they tried both, changed batteries in the remote, programmed a new set to my car, it still did not work, they reprogrammed my old set back to my car - handed me my keys - could not figure it out - it still does not work - any suggestions? :cry:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Slightly low brake fluid or possibly e-brake switch slightly out of alignment.

    Cold.......brake fluid volume when cold.
  • bpsmicrobpsmicro Member Posts: 11
    Well, if three separate transmitters exhibit the symptom, it's safe to say the transmitter(s) aren't the problem. It's obviously with the receiver itself.
    However, if you have the RS3200 (or whatever) security system, it's all integrated and a replacement module for that is gonna cost big bucks.
    Have you tested the security system to see if the rest of it works? Could be your entire security system has crapped out.
  • toyotech3toyotech3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi there, i have a few suggestions for you. First make sure no little critters made a nest in your engine compartment. Second, when you open your hood you will see 2 black cables on the drivers side of the engine compartment, one is your throttle cable and the other is your cruise control cable. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the ends of the cables and they are mounted in their holes correctly (they have balls at the end that sit in holes). If everything looks in order take it to A dealer or repair shop and have a throttle flush done to clean the throttle body(sometimes carbon builds up on the throttle plate) hope this helps
  • toyotech3toyotech3 Member Posts: 2
    The noise you are hearing is the pump starving for fluid, check the power steering fluid level (open the hood it's over passenger's side wheel, in a yellowish container with a black cap).. there are 4 markings full/hot low/hot full/cold and low/cold. it sounds like you have low fluid and after the fluid warms up it expands and stops the noise. Check the reservoir in the morning before you start the car it should be at full/cold or a little bit higher. If it's low top it off with Dextron 2 or 3 ATF (automatic transmission fluid) the cap will tell you the same thing. If it's low you should get the system checked for leaks. The pump it'self may not be leaking but suffering from loss of fluid.
  • parkavegirlparkavegirl Member Posts: 5
    2003 Camry LE: I live in NJ, and this is my third winter where my windshield washer fluid lines freeze up when the temperature is below 20 degrees. In a snowstorm or on thawing, sloppy roads, not being able to clean the windshield is a real problem, as salt and streaks build up. My dealer service department's only solution: run the car for 30 minutes. My commute to work is at least 30 minutes, and the lines still do not thaw until later in the day if/when the temperature rises. It should not be the washer fluid, which has a very low freezing point. I've even tried the yellow washer fluid which is more expensive - still freezes.

    Anyone else out there with the same problem, and if so, do you have a solution? :(
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    If you're using a concentrate that requires dilution with tap water, there's your problem. I have no idea what type of washer fluid you filled the reservoir with, but a true winterized washer fluid consisting mainly of denatured alcohol will not freeze at any temperature above -40 F. I doubt it gets that cold in New Jersey. (So-called "wind-chill" factor readings don't count.) You should be able to find it at WalMart for around $1.25/gallon. Do NOT dilute this stuff - pour it in straight up and "neat" after empyting the reservoir of whatever's currently in it. Then follow up by running the windshield washer for at least 10 seconds steadily to clear the rubber lines of whatever's in them.
  • parkavegirlparkavegirl Member Posts: 5
    HAEFR: thanks for the tip, but that is what I use. I do not dilute the washer fluid. I use the blue stuff in the gallon bottle. I think I need to tell the dealership not to top off the reservoir when they change the oil (I get free oil changes) because they probably use concentrate. So maybe you have given me a useful tip here. I'll run out what's in there now and refill it from the gallon bottle. Maybe that will help. Thanks!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Not to belabor a point, but I've seen blue stuff in both winterized and standard formulae. Sniff the blue stuff you have - if it's primarily denatured ethanol, you'll pick up the scent immediately. Another test would be to dip a cotton swab bulb into the stuff and touch a flame to it. If it's alcohol, the bulb will ignite immediately.
  • markc10markc10 Member Posts: 3
    I went back to the mechanic and explained the problem. He first changed an engine mount (I think is called like that-a rubber thing) that solved most of the rough shaking. After that he checked again the timing belt, he said that even installed another new one to make sure that it wasn't the belt the culprit and he said that everything it is ok but he can't explain the problem that still exists, delay in starting. I just checked today the fuel consumption (I haven't done this in a year) and is not good, 16m/1 gal (60% city+40% highway). Should I go to the dealer to have the codes checked? Thank you.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    I still think one or both camshafts are mistimed in relation to each other, and/or to the crankshaft. If so, that's mechanic error - NOT a bad belt. If it turns out your mechanic screwed up* and the dealer ends up correcting it, your mechanic would legally be obligated to reimburse you for the dealer's work. Don't be afraid to file action in small claims court if necessary.

    *A very common error in high school autoshop class is to turn the crankshaft bass-ackward to align its index with the block-mounted reference to save time and effort. Normal mechanical "slop" will end up with the cranshaft mistimed by a full degree or more - it doesn't take much to make an engine run like stink. (At two degrees mistiming, some engines won't run at all.) The proper technique for ANY engine is to turn the crankshaft only in its operating direction of rotation - even if that means muscling it around 359+ degrees to bring the marks into exact alignment. The worst nightmare you could be facing is if the crankshaft were turned backward far enough, there could be damage to one or more valves from interference with a rising piston. (I really hope that didn't happen to your engine.)
  • cvalenti1cvalenti1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE. When I set the temperature for heat, I get heat on the drivers side and cool air on the passenger side. Can anybody help in telling me what could be wrong?
  • naomi7naomi7 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info. I will have this checked out. Also, where is the best place to get a wiring diagram of the car for myself?
  • janie43janie43 Member Posts: 1
    The Toyota 2003 camry owners manual states that "you must push in the key from 'acc' to the 'lock' position." ".. transmission must be in the 'p' position."
    However, when my camry has been out in the cold weather, it turns on and starts OK, but on short trips - so short that the car interior and ignition switch does not have time to warm up - when trying to turn off the car, the key will not go from "acc" to "lock." Pushing does not help. Driving around for another 15 minutes or so, until the car warms up, seems to be the only way to move the key to the "lock" position so that the key can be removed. This is an "intermittent" problem so the Toyota dealer has not been able to reproduce it. This has happened to me, 3 time over the last month. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions as to how to fix it? Thanks.
  • choclitmookchoclitmook Member Posts: 3
    Hi! I have a 98 Camry XLE V6.
    I just had a Toyota Dealership repair a check engine light with a VSV Part #90910-12271 for $345 labor and $76 for the part. When I asked the service manager why so much for labor, he replied that the part was buried in the back of the engine where it is difficult to get at. I looked up the replacement procedure for a VSV in a Chilton Manual, and it shows VSVs under the V-bank cover and on the charcoal canister next to the air filter. Is there one in a place I missed? These locations should not take 3 hours labor to remove and replace a tiny valve, right? Thanks for feedback, Tom
  • parkavegirlparkavegirl Member Posts: 5
    Hello Again!
    I've had an early Christmas gift!! I ran all the fluid out of the windshield washer reservoir (there was a lot!), bought a gallon of the yellow Prestone washer fluid which also removes ice, and filled the reservoir.

    Today the temperature was 18 degrees when I left my house. I had a bit of ice on the windshield, and I pushed the wiper fluid wand, and guess what? It squirted!!!!!!!! There must have been H2O in the fluid. I am a very happy camper, thanks to you!!

    Merry Christmas, Friend!! :):):)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    Same thing should happen with the blue washer fluids--they don't freeze down to -20. Check the container label for the low temp. Any of the alcohol-based fluids remove ice.

    Use the washers once every couple days even if not needed. I believe the alcohol evaporates into the air from the end of the squirt tube leaving the water with a higher freezing temperature.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Thank you for the feedback and the Christmas wish - right back atcha, too! :):):);)
  • enamuel89camryenamuel89camry Member Posts: 1
    Howdy, I started my 89 camry this morning and it was running as it normally does for about 45 seconds, but then it suddenly stalled, and I wasn't able to start it up again. It's got 378+K and this is the first time it's ever stalled on me. All the electronic components were working fine, so I don't think it was a battery problem. Could this be ice in the fuel line? I appreciate any help on this.
  • cwt5770cwt5770 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1996 camry with 175,000 miles on it. Over the last couple months I have had a problem with it vibrating and sometimes stalling. What happens is if I am at a stop, sometimes it will start to vibrate really hard, the RPMS suddenly drop down to zero and fluctuate from about zero - 1,000 (this is at a complete stop) and if I cant give it gas soon enough it stalls. I also noticed that when it does this I suddenly smell this acrid smell. I thought maybe it smelled sort of like gas but I'm not sure. The mechanic said that the car was giving him a code, but it wouldnt tell him what was wrong. We had the engine mounts replaced, fuel injection servie, a tune up, the radiator was replaced, the brakes were replaced, the tires were fixed. The throttle was also cleaned. EVen after all of this the car still has the problem. The only thing is that it is intermittent, so I guess they cant find out what is wrong. Does anyone have any ideas??
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporter from a large daily newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are repeat Toyota Camry owners. If you would to speak with the media, please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact info. and city/state of residence no later than January 5, 2006.

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  • aatoyotaaatoyota Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Just bought a 97 Camry LE, v6. Everything runs fine, however just recently a light came on, the icon looks like the car w/ flashing tail lights. I've cked the tail lights, brake lights and nothing is wrong with them. Has anyone experienced this, or do you know what the light is on for?
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Have him check EGR valve for carbon deposits, the deposits may not allow valve to fully close and cause stalling at idle.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    High mount brake light checked?
  • camryknockcamryknock Member Posts: 1
    2000 camry engine knocks at 86,000 miles even after recent service. It just started. The knocking stops when cranking with out spark plugs and compression is equil. Engine is free of visual damage on pistons and walls. motor dot camry at yahoo dot com is my engine contact address. Please advise.
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    89 Camry, 2.5 V6 190,000 miles;

    Problem: While driving, the temperature gauge goes from straight up(right in the middle--its normal position) to about 3/4 of the way to the H and back to normal repeatedly. Seems like it can't decide whether to overheat or run at normal temp. I assume that my thermostat may finally be failing. What do you all think?

    I plan to replace it myself. Are there any nasty surprises or difficulties that I need to be prepared for? Special tools I need etc.?

    Thanks in advance!

    Steve Edge
  • hopethishelpshopethishelps Member Posts: 1
    I recently took my 1996 Camry to a mechanic with this problem. Diagnosis was tough and time consuming. Finally the mechanic settled on the camshaft position sensor on a tip from a local Toyota mechanic. The problem appears to be gone and this is not terribly expensive to fix (200-350 depending on new or used parts and labor). To replace on this car you just replace the distributor.
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