Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

1…8384868889…99

Comments

  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Your 03 transmission takes type 4 toyota transmission fluid and it should be changed every 30,000 miles and I do it at 20,000 miles due to bumper bumper traffic. No toyota transmission is supposed to go past 30,000 miles with out a transmission oil change. Don't use dexron 3 as a fluid change only the type 4 from toyota or you can use ams oil universal synthetic fluid as second oil replacement which is the best kind of oil for the tranny.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "...use ams oil ["Amsoil"] universal synthetic fluid as second oil replacement which is the best kind of oil for the tranny..."

    That's an opinion that Toyota doesn't share - at least for warranty claim consideration. Toyota has not released the T-IV formulation specifics, therefore so-called "universal" ATFs (which are NOT universal at all) are only their blenders' Kentucky-windage guess at compatibility. If the car is still under powertrain warranty, stick with Toyota T-IV ATF. It's a synthetic blend with friction modifier characteristics specifically tailored to Toyota's choice of friction facing materials. The rest of your advice was spot-on, though.
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    Additional Info--the car seems to be overheating ONLY when I have the heat on. Also, my upper radiator hose is hot, leading me to believe that my thermostat is not stuck closed. Anyone have a clue what the problem could be? Thanks in advance.

    Steve
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Given the age of the car, if your current thermostat is the original, I'd definetly replace it. Why? Just cuzz. Nevertheless, it doesn't read like the thermostat if overheating only occurs when the heater is used. My guess is a clogged heater core. The heat control valve for the HVAC is a bypass configuration. If it's in full "cold" position, coolant circulates through the entire cooling system except for the heater core. As the heat control valve is progressively moved through its range to full "hot", more and more coolant is diverted additionally to the heater core. At full "hot", all coolant is directed through the heater core, and if the core is clogged, the engine is starved for circulated radiator-cooled fluid. The ringer in all this is the cyclical nature you described. I wonder whether the heat control valve has a "safety" thermal bypass that'll allow brief coolant flow to relieve excess pressure in the event the heater core won't flow. How often do you service your car's cooling system with fresh antifreeze, and what type?
  • terry26terry26 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2002 Camry with 43K on it. Bought it new in 2001 and it came with Bridgestone Turanza tires. These are $150 tires so in replacing them recently I went with an $80 Bridgestone and now the car has a pronounced pull to the left. I,ve had it aligned and wheels balanced but no good. Haven't taken it to the dealer yet. Has anyone had this problem? Appreciate any input.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    interesting possibility w.r.t. the heater core and a safety relief mechanism.

    are you a mechanic? curious.

    i'm mechanically challenged, not a motor-head, just interested...initially i was thinking maybe just a bad temp sender or connection to same (if there was no actual overheating), but since the vehicle is overheating (how do we know that?) with it set to heat, i like your explaination. could it also be the bypass valve itself, as opposed to the heater core?

    additionally, don't you think the person should check the level of the antifreeze in the radiator (cold), and in the resevoir?

    if the system has never been serviced, a flush and fill with the new stuff in proper proportions seems in order.
  • gsachinkgsachink Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I own a Toyota Camry LE V6 2004 model with the dealer installed security system, and since last night the alarm is going off every 60-90 mins.

    Wondering if your issue got resolved by keeping the remote transmitter away from the car.

    Thanks.
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    The problem was was with the coolant, or lack thereof. I filled the radiatior, now the temp level stays normal. Thanks user777 that is the most obvious problem and I should have realized it.

    Edge
  • markc10markc10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a Toyota Camry 2001 4 cyl 64000 miles. Does this car behaves only if I service it at the dealer? I flushed and replaced the steering fluid at a station specialized on oil service. They show me that the fluid is dirty and needs to be changed after 60000 miles. I asked them if the replacement fluid is the right one for Toyota, they said yes. Two days after the change when steering, I hear that high pitch noise (it seems that noise comes from under the hood not from the steering column) and the steering wheel moves very hard. This happens when steering on both right or left side, not every time (4-6 times in 10 days) and I think when it is cold outside. The fluid it is a the right level. What might be wrong? Thank you.
  • mslulu2mslulu2 Member Posts: 2
    I just had my 04 Camry 4cyl. 30,000 mi service, I was told the throttle was dirty and the dealership could clean it for $85. The basic service cost $375. which included $35-40. for the synthetic oil! Shouldn't a throttle cleaning be included and how important is it, Can I do it myself???
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Keep a close eye on the coolant level at the radiator for awhile (not merely the coolant-recovery bottle - a pinhole air leak in the tubing from the radiator fill neck to the bottle could give a false impression that the coolant level is stable). If the coolant level (checked cold for consistency and safety) decreases more than several ounces per month, you may have an internal leak such as a bad cylinder head gasket. As long as the coolant level stays right up to the top of the bottom ring in the neck, that's a very good sign that both the cooling system and coolant recovery system are both operating correctly. If the appearance of the viewable radiator core tubes shows clean metal, that's also a good sign that the coolant mixture is chemically stable and protecting against corrosion. Any evidnce of corrosion scale is proof that the cooling system is well past the point at which it should've been serviced with flushing and refill with fresh antifreeze/coolant. If your car has an aluminum engine, Toyota's long-life pink antifreeze/coolant concentrate and distilled water in a 50/50 mix is the best combination, and should be good for three years between changeouts. (Personally I won't run any coolant longer than that regardless of five-year claims on the jugs.)
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    The "service personnel" (don't ask what word I'd preferred to have used...) at the facility that changed your PS fluid didn't properly purge the air from the system after they extracted the old fluid and refilled the system. The PROPER way on most current cars is to suspend the front wheels off the ground (to relieve stress on the car battery and starter motor), remove the ignition fuse so the engine won't start, and crank the engine with the starter motor while a helper turns the steering wheel from lock to lock a couple of times. (Never crank more than 20 seconds continually!) This will allow the air mass to work its way to the PS fluid reservoir and out. What the shop you selected did was to leave the engine idling and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times - and that would work on certain cars with slower operating PS pumps. Trouble is, the faster operating PS pumps in combination with engine idle speed on modern cars is too fast to allow the trapped air to move through the system en masse to the PS reservoir. Instead the air was just churned into a fine bubble semi-liquid - which allowed nearly normal power steering function while the engine continued running. Once you got the car home and shutdown for the night, the air collected back into the system as a large bubble. When you start the car, you have little or no power steering until the compressible air and fluid are churned back into a homogenized semi-liquid. You will not have relief from this viscious cycle until the air is purged once and for all. (and you run some risk of damage until that is done - air is a terrible lubricant) Don't be surprised that once the air is finally extracted, you'll need to top up the power steering fluid level to make up for the lost air volume - and it may require another purging if the fluid level drops too low in the reservoir. Except for Hondas, universally available Ford Type F or Dexron III automatic transmission fluids are fine as service fill in power steering systems. Fluids claiming to be specific "Power Steering Fluid" are nothing more than overpriced versions of either of the above, sometimes with amber instead of ATF's red marker dye added.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "...are you a mechanic? curious..."

    Nope - just another gearhead who's serviced his own rides for over 44 years. (and who was obviously humbled in this case as the result of a car owner who hadn't bothered checking his radiator coolant level for way too long...)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ;)

    you think this owner should perform a flush and refill with new toyota brand coolant and water in the appropriate ratio?

    a coolant looses it's heat transmissivity and protective attributes over time right?
  • sabinls2sabinls2 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 camry SE 4 cylinder and have the exact same problem. I also drove a 2005 LE 4 cylinder rental for a week and noticed the same issue.

    I drive rental cars every other week and found this problem to be very unusual amongst cars in general. Even generic American cars such as the older version malibu with rental miles did not have the issue.
  • nrvousnrvous Member Posts: 2
    I've got this 97 camry, 170,000 miles that was running great. Oil change every 3 months. At car maintenance shop, they did oil change and some other fluid changes last Tuesday, then next day drove 200 miles, left in parking garage. No engine light or hot engine noticed during ride. When I picked up car from garage yesterday, I was told that engine exploded shortly after I left the car-2 inch hole on left lower side of engine (can see cylinders. I can see that if an engine gets hot, it might explode, though not noted (I didn't specifically look) and did not happen during drive but after we stopped. Does this make sense?
  • nrvousnrvous Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like what happened to my care last week: 1997 Camry, 177,000 miles. I regularly maintain the car, and had an oil change the day before this happened. Putting in a new engine, though, would cost more than the car is worth, though I guess the new engine is still cheaper than buying a new car. Any thoughts?
  • mslulu2mslulu2 Member Posts: 2
    4 cyl. 16 valve Cam LE 04 just had 30k mi service--tech said throttle plate was dirty (dealership wanted $85 add'l to clean it) Should it be dirty at this mileage and does it mean an internal malfunction if it is? Need answer fast, pleez and thank you!
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Throttle plate can be dirty at this mileage and is normal carbon buildup and won't be covered under 30k service although Toyota and dealers know it's common occurence. It's not a malfunction. Plate can be cleaned with carb cleaner with rag and Q-tips(for pivots). Do it when engine is cold.The carbon buildup can also make throttle stick.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I saw your post on your problem I change my anti freeze every two years I use the Toyota anti freeze due to it has shown to be one of the best on the market. I also use distilled water 50/50 mix and never had a radiator problem in 300,000 miles. I was told by several radiator shops to always change the anti freeze every two years and the radiator will last a lot longer. There are some new anti freezes on the market that will go 5 years I still like to change mine every two years. I have found that most radiator shops are honest and do a very good job on back flushing and refilling the radiator. And it dosen't cost much to have a radiator shop due the work cheaper than the dealer.
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    It looks like most of these errors are not the problem of the traction system, but more likely due to engine problems. If the traction system doesn't even come on I would check the fuse box (there may be more than one fuse box) to see if a fuse is blown. If you turn on the traction system with a switch or pushbutton then I would check to see if the wires going to it are on securely. If they are then I would check to see if you get continuity through the switch by pressing it on and off. If the switch does not open or short then there is your problem. If the traction control is suppose to come on automatically then you need to get a manual and see if there is some troubleshooting suggestions for you or wait until another person posts with information.

    The evap emission errors are likely due to the gas cap not being on tight enough. I got this error on my Durango. Once I tightened the gas cap the error immediately went away. Of course it could be a bad gas cap or a hole in the hose to the tank.

    With the P0303 error, I would start with a tune-up. With this cylinder misfiring it could be source of your problem for the P0171, P1130, P1150 and possibly other errors. If the spark plugs and wires (it may not have wires if it has a coil on each cylinder)have already been changed then I would do a compression test on the third cylinder. I don't know if the 2000 Camary has individual coils for each cylinder, but if it does, I would look at that as the next candidate. If it still has a distributor cap then I would check to see if there is a bad contact and change it. After, that I would say that its probably a bad fuel injector.

    If the tune-up fixes your misfire, but not your O2 Sensor problem then I would locate and replace it. You may need a manual Haynes or Chilton or whatever your preference to locate the O2 sensor. Kragen.com and/or Autozone.com have location descriptions and/or pictures for some components.

    Of course if you have an OBD II code reader, clear the codes and see if any come back after you repair or replace something. Some of the codes may not come off until the car has been successfully started a dozen times or so and it won't do much good to have fixed the problem and not clear the code. The problem could remain in the car for several days without you knowing that you fixed the problem.

    Good Luck,

    SD-out
  • airiairi Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I read your question I had engine replacement done on my acura legend there are some dealers who bring used engines from japan which have 60,000-90,000 kilometers on them my cost of replacing engine was $900 canadian for engine and $500 for labor. I think that's very cheap and my car is running great.
  • babyjeanbabyjean Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday,, I had the same problem and it did lead to a serious accident. I pulled into parking space and a sudden lurch/acceleration caught me off guard and I ended up crossing and intersection with much acceleration and hit a fire plug. My daughter-in -law and granddaughter was in the car. Thankfully, we were not seriously hurt. Please be careful and have this problem checked. I ditto the letter sent that this is not a minor problem. My car was the only one involved --this happened at the corner of a major attraction with kids--so--we were blessed that I didn't hit anything or anyone but a fire plug.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporter from a large daily newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are Toyota Camry owners. If you would to speak with the media, please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact info. and city/state of residence no later than January 5, 2006.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • babycranebabycrane Member Posts: 3
    I drove about 3 hours on freeway. Suddenly, my well maintained (engineer oil/transition oil exchange on time) 1999 -73000 miles Toyota-Camera CE dropped speed to about 40 miles/hr even though I pushed harder on gas pedal. I was forced to pull down at the side of freeway for rest about 20 minutes, then maintained “capped” speed of 40 miles/hr on the freeway with emergency light on for about 10 minutes.
    To my surprise, I can increase my car’s speed to 65 miles/hr. (due to traffic, I can’t increase more).
    It is unlikely caused by timing belt (have not changed yet), overdrive (never use), cruise speed (without this feature).
    I think the cause of problem might be from battery (change 1.5 years ago at Wal-Mart), spark plug (replaced by platinum one year ago) or fuel injection (never change), etc. Any good suggestions since it is quite unsafe to happen again on freeway?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    without more details it's hard to say. if you were flooring the accelerator, what was happening with the RPMs?

    seems to me maybe your transmission (assuming A/T) has lost it's top gear.

    assuming you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) illuminated, I'd bring it to an autozone or other parts chain, and have the codes read so you know in general terms, what the problem *might* be. then, i'd probably have an well known independant repair place look at it and give you an estimate.

    hopefully it is something simple.
  • babycranebabycrane Member Posts: 3
    When I pressed gas pedal for acceleration, PRM (Round Per Minunte) is about 6/7, but the speed is "capped" around 40 mph. Unfortunatelly CEL(Check Engine Light) remains off through the whole travel.
    I went to Walmart today on freeway (60-70 mph) for battery checkup, which seems battery is fine.
    Wondering whether there is any easy procedure for me to check up?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if your RPMs (rotations per minute x 1000) is 6/7 (this means 6000->7000 RPM), this is excessively high - probably close to redline (danger of engine damage). At 40mph, I would think your engine should be normally turning 1.5/2.0 (1500-2000 RPM), maybe even less.

    you must be hearing very loud engine noise when this happens. you shouldn't be pushing the accelerator to the floor.

    there is something wrong with your transmission or speed sensing; you may actually be in 1st or 2nd gear.

    what indication do you have on the dashboard, or next to the shifter when you place it in "D" (Drive)?

    i am confused. before you indicated RPM was 6/7 and speed "capped" at 40MPH.

    now you are saying on your way to Walmart, you were able to go 60/70mph.

    is it possible your problem before was you didn't have the shifter in "D" drive but "1" or "2"?

    if this is an intermittent problem, and you're quite sure of putting the transmission in "D", i believe your vehicle may be sensing a transmission or speed measuring problem and putting itself into something called "limp mode", which is a fixed / set gearing ratio (that involves no shifting) to get you to a repair center.

    it's possible you have a bad solenoid, clogged transmission passages (has your vehicle's transmission ever had servicing or it's fluid replaced?), a bad transmission control module, a bad speed sensor... there could be any number of causes - i'm not an expert just another driver trying to be helpful.

    i think if this happens again or if it is a recurrent problem, when it is in this mode, you should drive (slowly) to a service center to have it diagnosed. and if it were me, i might even consider having it towed to avoid additional damage.

    does anyone else have additional advice for babycrane? i do not believe this is something that can be diagnosed by the vehicle owner, and i think continued driving when the transmission isn't using all of its gears is not good for the vehicle's transmission or engine.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Sounds like you're on to something, assuming either the transmission was placed in first or second gears or otherwise isn't automatically upshifting to third or fourth gears.

    I'm wondering if the exhaust system (especially the catalytic converter) may be obstructed, which would prevent the car from reaching higher speeds. Although, if this were the case, would it be possible to go 60-70 mph later?
  • scottgbscottgb Member Posts: 23
    Last Summer my mother had the EGR VSV valve replaced in her 97 Camry. Recently the car started running rough, and the dealership replaced the EGR valve. Are there two different EGR valve's, with one being called the VSV valve? The repair she had done last Summer was out of state, and the recent repair was done at her local dealership.
    She showed them the receipt for the VSV valve, and they said that is different than the EGR valve. I just want to make sure she's not being taken advantage of. Thanks for your feedback!
  • johngeejohngee Member Posts: 11
    Hi Geesell,
    Your problem is one associated to the hydrolic system for the brake operation. The first thing to do is check the resovior for the brakes and see how much fluid your vehicle is using? Once you have carried out that inspection have a look underneath the car and inspect the inner tyre wall to see which tyre is damp or wet. Once you have done that you can determine where the leakage is. The most likely is one of the rear wheel cylinders.... the rubber seals are available in kit form and should be replaced.... When you drive with only half of your brake system functioning you are a danger on the road. If the front only are working You only have about 60% of your braking efficiency, if you have the rear only, you have about 40%.... Have them fixed or do them your self before driving the car again!
    Be safe and happy fixing
    Best regards
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    see if this link helps:
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf
  • babycranebabycrane Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your valuable suggestions.

    This incident happened on freeway. After resting for 15 mintuest and drived at "capped" speed at 40 mph for another 10 minutes, everything returns the normal status (speed can increase to traffic flow speed, 65 mph). During the whole process, transmittion gear is always put on "D" mode and no any abnormal/emergency light,including ECL (Engine Check Light), is on.
    This is well maintained car, with transmission oil replaced just last week.
    The only abnormal is I seldom drive more than 75 mph for more than 2 hours one way. But this time, I maintained speed at least 80 mph for more than 3 hours at inter-state freeway. And this incident happened.
    Any more suggestions to narrow down the cause of problem? I truly appreciate it.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    The EGR VSV is a vacuum switching valve that is temperature sensitive. When engine is cold it does not let vacuum reach the EGR valve.When engine reaches proper temp. the VSV lets vacuum reach the EGR valve. It's part of EGR system but is separate part.
  • scottgbscottgb Member Posts: 23
    Thanks very much for the information!

    Scott
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    The ECM (engine control module) computer will not allow the engine to rev beyond maximum safe operating limits. But whatever are you thinking by avoiding the use of your transmission's overdrive feature. In overdrive (and presuming you have an automatic transmission), with torque converter lockup engaged, your engine speed would only be around 2,500 RPM (revolutions per minute) at 70 mph - much less stress on the transmission, and probably enhanced engine longevity and improved fuel economy. I do think you're also getting perilously close to risking major engine damage if you don't get that timing belt changed soon.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    This is well maintained car, with transmission oil replaced just last week.

    question: did this problem just begin to occur AFTER the service to the transmission?

    if answer is yes - why haven't you brought it back to the place that serviced the transmission?

    question: do you have a transmission fluid dip stick? (consult your owner's manual). if yes, drive your car till it is warmed up. stop the vehicle, turn off the engine, and see if the oil is up to the proper full level mark (consult your manual).
  • johngeejohngee Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    What you have said about your Camry is correct, the rear suspension has no adjustment for camber( but 0.3 does not sound bad to me.)it does have rear alignment in the way of a toe in /out adjustment though. Take the vehicle to a tyre and alignment centre and have them work first on the rear wheels and then on the front.... Have you checked your tyre pressure? One other thing you should be aware of and that is that if the shocks have been replaced with sub standard parts you may have problems with the camber adjustment, both front and rear, depending on where they're fitted. Different tread paterns on the tyre can also result in the same problem that you're having.

    All the best
  • pvdhampvdham Member Posts: 2
    I have 2000-camry automatic transmission with 65k miles. I did a stupid thing... While driving @20mph(and talking with my wife), I shifted the gear from drive to reverse! The car stalled and stopped. I thought its done... I got the car to park and started it and drove it off. Though nothing looks to be broken or sounds weird, what can i suspect to have happend or got affected? Transmission? Gear box? Anything that i can get checked so that the car doesn't die midway... Thanks a lot in advance.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    No lurching or skidding when you inadvertantly engaged "Reverse"? If not, maybe your automatic transmission was paying closer attention to its welfare than you were. Some ATs have a fail-safe feature that will only engage "Neutral" if the car's forward speed is in excess of several miles per hour and the gear selection lever is shifted to "Reverse" or a lower forward gear that would result in over-reving the motor. Sounds like you got a pass courtesy of Toyota engineering. However, if there was some immediate excitement, you obviously didn't do the trannie any good, but, if it's working, there may be no damage other than some premature wear to clutch facings. That doesn't necessarily put the trannie on death's doorstep, but I'd consider a full flush of the fluid, a filter replacement, and a refill with whatever ATF the 2000 models specify in your owner's manual. Consider it cheap pennance as well as reasonable prophylaxis against whatever liklihood there might be of excess clutch facing debris circulating in the fluid causing trouble down the road. Remember two words when wifey attempts to engage her mouth while your transmission's engaged in "Drive": "shut" and "up".
  • toyota01toyota01 Member Posts: 1
    i have a question for everyone. i have an 01 camry le v6 and it has approx. 72k miles on it. I have been driving the car with check engine light on for about a month now. I took it to autozone and the code came up as po300 which is apparently the misfiring of multiple cylinders. Can anyone enlighten me as far as what i should do? how easy/hard to repair? should it be taken to the dealership, or is it something that i can trust a local mechanic to do...

    anyways, thanks for ANY help.

    btw: when the car is driving at highway speeds i dont really notice major abnormalities in the way the vehicle drives. However, when i am idling or driving under 30mph, the car rumbles; sometimes shaking. In addition to that, when i push the accelerator, trying to accelerate, the engine revs normally and the rpm's go up, but there is a sense of hesitation and the car doesnt accelerate nearly as fast as it should. This is the only possible evidence that some of my cylinders are misfiring.

    One last thing. If you step outside the car (while it's idle) the exhaust note isnt consistent and significantly louder than it should be. It is extremely hard to explain,but if you have ever heard a diesel's exhaust, there is a definite rhythm to the sound of the exhaust. Although not as loud and noticable as a diesel, the exhaust note on my camry almost resembles that of a diesel.

    any help is appreciated! thanks in advace!
  • kevhuntkevhunt Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just bought a 2001 Camry that has a security system. The car didn't come with an owner's manual and this is the first Toyota I've owned.
    The problem is that sometimes this thing arms and I don't know how to disarm it. Disarming it usually means waking up the neighbors with the thing before I stumble into getting it done. Any help as to exactly how to arm/disarm this thing would be greatly appreciated...Kevin
  • mak750mak750 Member Posts: 3
    I just went through an oil consumption problem with my 2000 Toyota Camry Solara. I had no problems driving around town, but as soon as I would take a long drive on an interstate, I found I needed to add oil after arriving at my destination because the oil just seemed to disappear! :cry: Ruling out an oil leak problem, I drove to the Toyota dealership and explained my problem. They contacted Toyota and discovered that some of the Toyota automobiles' engine oil turned to gel. The Toyota service shop replaced the short block, valve seals and oil pump under the 'Oil Gel Campaign' at no cost to me! Not only did they replace these parts, they upgraded them. I was told that all Toyota vehicles would be covered under this campaign as long as the car was not more than 7 years old and the car owner could produce proof that their car had been maintained with regular oil changes, etc.. I hope this information reaches all Toyota car owners that have been adding a lot of oil, thereby adding to the gelling, before it's too late. It's well worth the time and peace of mind knowing this is a problem that can be resolved.
  • blueguy2blueguy2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Camry LX and the cruise button flashes then stays on steady, but the cruise will not set. I bought the car almost four months ago from a dealer and so for like what I have gotten with this one exception. Does anyone know of a way to reset the system? Or do I need to take it the dealer. Also the dome light doesn't work. The door switches do because the icon for open door lights up.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Replace the burned out brake light bulbs, and don't forget the high mounted one.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Oil gelling, aka - sludge. Toyota had a real problem with mid-nineties through early 2k engines. It was made worse by their blanket 7,500 mile oil change interval recommendations under "normal service". When threatened with lawsuits, Toyota eventually fessed up after many inspections of failed engines and much hand-wringing in Japan by the company's engineers, and extended the warranties on affected vehicles. Disgruntled owners who went through the initial hassles even coined an unambiguously descriptive term for their engines: "sludge monsters". I believe Toyota currently recommends a maximum of 5,000 miles between oil changes. Your replacment short block has larger oil return galleries to help move oil back to the sump more efficiently. With the original diameter, oil tended to pool in the head - the hottest part of the engine. Nasty things happen in the presence of heat to motor oil. You shouldn't have any more problems - Toyota's engineering has always been sound; someone just dropped the ball in allowing insufficient oil return volume.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    >Toyota's engineering has always been sound; someone just dropped the ball in allowing insufficient oil return volume.

    Having the proper oil return opening is a part of engineering the engine. I would expect more from a company that people feel has great engineering...

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • chk3chk3 Member Posts: 1
    1996 Camry Window Master Switch Issue was it the Main Power Relay. I have the same issue. First a blown 30 AMP Fusable Link next to the steering column (need forceps to replace) and now the driver window is stuck down. All other door window switches work. Master makes all the window motors hum which sounds like not enough voltage. I took apart the master switch and cleaned it to no avail. I have three left over springs that I believe go to the child lock, anyone know where they go? Switches and door locks function properly though.
    Getting close to trade in time I guess!
  • falcon2falcon2 Member Posts: 3
    I bought my 06 Camry LE 4 cylinder last month. I am having same shift problems, where on a down hill, it will automatically [non-permissible content removed] to lower gear or shift out of overdrive. If I turn off and on the overdrive, car goes back and stays in overdrive. Whether this is fly by wire or learning transmission, it is very annoying, and I miss my 10 year old Lexus ES300 with 170K miles, which shifted much smoother then this.
  • toyintoyin Member Posts: 1
    I drive toyota camry V6 1990 model. I observed the following problems. The ATF drops and i took to my mechanics for inspection and repairs. A transmission cable was changed. After sometime the steering becomes stif and later the ATF often leak away each time i fill the container.

    Furthermore, the car doesnt pick immediately I accelerate.
    The engine goes of while on motion or whenever i slow down.

    Secondly, the car consumes more gas than before, the injector valve was changed but there is no significant difference.

    Kindly forward your suggestions to me. I will appreciate them.

    Thanks

    Toyin
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles