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How often do you wax/seal your vehicle? One way to keep bugs from being difficult to remove is to have a fresh coat of sealant on the paint. Since you only detail occaisonally, I would recommend Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. I've heard it's one of the best all-in-one products out there that's readily available at any auto parts store.
Ken
I might give the NXT Tech Wax stuff a try, since I only hand-waxed once in 2 years and I'd still like to keep that to a minimum. I've only been doing wash/wax with cheap all-in-one stuff every few months and after this last wash, using the bug remover then protector (only on front, sides, mirrors) I noticed a large area on the roof wasn't beading at all.
Of course, nothing cleans like a hendheld soapy sponge. Pressure-washer never can get the dirt film off without showing bands of cleaner and dirtier places. I messed up part of the pinstripes trying to get real close.
My car cleaning is so bad, I don't even dry, so I get terrible spotting from my awful water here. :P I've been very happy with the brake dust repelling wheel cleaner, anyhow, very easy cleaning them.
However, if I can at least keep a good enough wax on there I'm thinking it will be enough. Already have several paint chips on the hood, the largest I dabbed on some touchup paint and sealer onto. I'd like the car to be in fair shape for the predicted 8 years or so I'll own it (6 more to go!).
Claying really isn't hard at all. You just take this silly putty like stuff, spray some soapy water or quick detailer on a section of your washed car and glide it back and forth until smooth.
NXT sounds like the perfect fit for you since it cleans well, goes on and off easily and lasts far longer than any conventional wax.
We'll make a detailer out of you yet. ;-)
Ken
And with the minimal attention that you give your car I wouldn't think it will look in even fair condition in 6 years from now.
Cheers Pat.
After seeing how easily the paint chips at the front of the hood I got a little less enthusiastic about keeping the new car nice and shiny. I had read what others were saying about potential problems with weak Subaru paint even before getting this Impreza OBS, but I really didn't expect it to be that bad. Well, maybe I make it sound worse than it is but my GMC truck didn't have such chipping. Oops, forgot already... it had a bug deflector. And it was higher off the ground anyhow. Still, I remember the last time I had a small car and it didn't get chipped like this one has.
I was also thinking of new paint someday if the chipping becomes bad enough. I'd like a medium gray metallic overall, no more two-tone thing over the wheelwells.
Either that or leave it alone, like some other people I know do with their "work" vehicle paintjobs, which have deteriorated severely and rust is only one step away. :sick: :P Nah, I couldn't live with that!
Thanks,
Steve
Maybe I am a bit strange, but detailing the cars is my way of unwinding.
Cheers Pat.
The first thing I would look at is using a more easy to use detailing product. Are you still using a traditional wax? The best off the shelf detailing product that's one-step is Meguiar's NXT Wax. It cleans and protects in one step and the results are supposed to be very good.
Now, if you want to get serious, skip the orbital buffer and get a Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher. It's literally fool-proof (unlike cheapo buffers that can burn your paint) and the results are breathtaking. You saw that reflection on my LGT wagon last year. ;-)
If you Google Porter Cable 7424, you'll find tons of websites and detailing stores that will explain how it all works and how easy it's to use.
Keep in mind, however, that going the machine route is not the panacea of easy detailing. For what you save on elbow grease, you do gain the burden of having to deal with a tool and it's accessories. You'll need to spend some money on some upfront items like pads as well as maintain the pads too.
What machine detailing will allow you to do is get an incredible shine that would not be possible by hand detailing.
One other cool thing to note is that the Porter Cable 7424 is simply a 7335 or 7336 with a different counterweight and pad -- the main unit is the same. The other two models are marketed as polishers. You could save some money by finding one of these used and simply change the counterweight and backing pad. Or, you can leverage the use of a 7424 by making it into a polisher for your woodworking and other around the house needs.
Let me know if you need any more info.
Ken
I took my time during the process and started out with very light pressure. As I progressed, I would ease in additional pressure as needed. The Craftsman unit is heavy and big, and the power button requires a bit of a reach to keep it on (push on/off, doesn't stay on). I also didn't like the power cord dangling from the unit, most times I tried to throw it over my shoulder so it wouldn't come in contact with the surface. I sense a Christmas gift idea for myself...
Any cordless models worth recommending?
-Brian
Most folks simply throw the cord over their shoulder. Those that are even more OCD will use a microfiber sheath on the cord to prevent it from doing anything to their finish.
The porter cable I mention above is really easy to use. It has a stay-on power switch and is easily operated with one hand. It also has a variable speed dial to let you fine tune the polishing action.
Ken
A year or so ago I bought into the Ryobe 18v cordless system, and have been adding items as need and spare change allows. No, it is not as powerful as say Dewalt, but the price is incredible for what you get. For the handy homeowner, it is more than adequate. Ryobe makes many of the Craftsman powertools as well. Anyhow, they recently added a cordless orbital polisher to the line. Years ago I had a corded beast and gave it away. Tangling with the cord was 50% of my problem.
Ken, I use mostly Meguiars. Gold Class, and more recently, their less expensive but less damaging to rubber Cleaner Wax & Quick Detailer. But time is the problem, Pat. As much as I like doing it, I'm lucky if I get to it more than a few times a year - not nearly enough. That leaves automatic car washes as the only option. Though maybe a cordless unit would be the ticket to more events.
Steve
Enjoy that impact driver. I bought one back in the spring because I had to rebuild my old shed, and it is GREAT. You can forget having the bit slip in the screw slots and rounding them off. Even if you don't have any projects right now, do yourself a favor and get some scrap wood and a bunch of sheetrock screws and see for yourself how great that thing is. You'll never want to use a regular cordless drill/driver for driving screws again!
Len
Since you're already familiar with Meguiars, give their NXT Tech Wax a whirl. Although I haven't used NXT specifically, I have been using synthetic products for some time and I also have used Gold Class in the past.
The ease of use, shine and durability of NXT I think will help with your time constraints.
Ken
I love the chainsaw, even if it does leak chain oil. Haven't used my gas-powered saw ever since.
Just got the impact driver earlier this year. My first of that kind of tool and I really like it. I'm only a part-time tool user anyway so I wanted a set of cordless stuff that fits my usage.
I bought a Chicago Electric 18 Volt 10" buffer/polisher last year to wax my Impreza Outback Sport, thinking I'd do a waxing more often but I've only done that once. Meguiar's Cleaner Wax (after looking at bottle on shelf to make sure) is what I have here. I only wash/wax using some all-in-one stuff.
I checked on that Ryobi buffer, hadn't heard of it before now, and it sounds like the better choice-- maybe. Cost the same as this other one (possibly less). The 10" pad seemed oversized, so a 6" pad could be better.
Home Depot does not have the Ryobi One+ buffer. I'd love to hear from someone who does before I consider it.
Steve
Another reason I would get that Ryobi buffer is because I already misplaced the AC adapter/charger for the Chicago Electric buffer! Well, not exactly misplaced or lost.
What happened is this, I put the buffer on a shelf in my shed and put the charger indoors with a bunch of other AC adapters I already had for everything from printers to phones. When I went to use it recently (to try and help with a recent bug&tar removal) I discovered there wasn't anything with the brand name or 18 Volts written on it. Closest match was something like a 20 Volt DC output. I used that to charge the battery and it seemed alright. Thing of it is, I'm still not absolutely sure what goes with it.
At least when you have one specific battery type, along with tools and charger used for that, there's no mistaking what goes with what. ;^)
I, too, would like to hear from anyone with that buffer. Maybe I can find someplace talking about it. I used to go to a Ryobi forum so I'll check there.
http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php
Searched there and I think only one person tells about a bad pad on a buffer but doesn't say which one, could be their corded not cordless.
One other Ryobi tool I'd like to use is their Stapler/Nailer but unfortunately I've heard it isn't (or wasn't if changes were ever made) all that good. I almost always have something to staple eventually.
Remembered the name of the kit I got, called The Works. Also, I added a spiral (or speed) saw to it this summer. Thinking of getting the Inflator next-- for my Subaru's tires, of course.
I'm a step ahead of you, and searched the Ryobi tool forum, but no posts on the orbital buffer yet. I may post the question directly and see if there are any responses.
I got one of the smaller kits (drill, light, reciprocating saw, circular saw & vacuum, charger & 2 batteries). The basic kit was on sale at HD a year ago for $129. I have since added the jig saw, corner cat sander, right angle drill, another charger & 2 batteries, and now the impact driver.
The story on the stapler/nailer is that it was withdrawn, and replaced by a stapler only. Some reported problems with the wide stapler anvil marring workpieces when driving smaller headed nails. So the new unit is a dedicated tool.
Steve
I've wanted a cordless one a long time. Having to plug into a wall for power can be trouble. Case in point, stapling to repair parts of my deck-turned-screenroom while 10' up on a ladder with the 8' wire plus extension. Hated being tethered like that. Same goes for drilling, sawing, whatever. I was an AC-only guy until a few years ago and I am loving the change! Maybe cordless stuff can't always replace AC but I'm not missing those other power tools much.
http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topics&forum=103
I posted a question on the cordless buffer, and got one real answer. Still, I would have liked to hear from someone who had a broader experience base (as in how this compares to a premium corded, like the P-C that Ken uses).
Steve
My Chicago Electric buffer is variable 0-2500 RPM. I've seen nothing about the Ryobi being variable. I remember thinking full speed was plenty fast if I got too light-handed. There would be a chance then that 4000 RPM-- even though that's no-load speed-- might fling wax everywhere. I don't know, this being my first buffer and used only once makes the whole thing that much more difficult to decide on anything.
When I got the CE buffer I was only thinking of cordless and large to make waxing easy. Now I realize the big size can be a problem.
Anyway... I am curious about the relatively high speed and any possibility of it being variable. Maybe I'll find out at a Home Depot.
Saw that and one more thought came to mind -- what kind of pad accessories are available for it? Aside from having the proper motion (random, dual action) the type of pad you use makes a huge difference in the outcome.
The easiest to use systems have a velcro-backed plate you attach to the buffer. Then you attach foam pads (different based on the application) that have the mating side of the velcro strip on them. The pads are very secure and are easy to remove and replace.
Too bad you didn't live nearby -- I'd loan you my PC to try out! :-)
Ken
No, you are right. There is a lot to like about cordless, but the buffer "system" sounds like it is immature as a product. Gee, Ken. They need a good product manager to make it right! Then you can even play a part in the commercial shoot!
Just busting on you...
Steve
If you don't mind carrying back extra luggage, I have this old corded random orbital buffer that I don't use anymore. I think it's a Car and Driver branded model that I picked up at Target many years ago. It's yours if you want it.
Ken
-Brian
I gotta change the stereo in the Miata first, though. It was skipping, then the lights started to go out. Now it's dark AND skips. So I got a cheap MP3 player, but I'm putting it in myself.
-juice
I did a search of this topic and it seems that the recommendation a few years ago in cleaning leather was Lexol. I was just wondering if you folks still recommend that. I have to try and remove ink stains from my front seat.
If not Lexol, any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mark
Cheers Pat.
MNSteve
How do you tow it? Is it on a flatbed? It's my understanding that's the only way to safely tow an all-wheel drive vehicle.
Just curious...
Cheers!
Paul
Normally it might have been Gold Class, but for this job Meg Cleaner Wax. She sure did clean up nice! The scratches and old swirls buffed out, and the finish looks more like the average 3 year old car now.
Oh, Wes - that reminds me. Two weeks ago I bought a rear cargo tray for days when I need to haul bagged items, but don't need the full trailer. Also a Carry-On from Lowes Homecenter. Nice to have the mess out back, rather than in the Outback! (sorry....)
I had to do some nifty machining using a drill press in the lab. The tray comes with a 2" stinger, the OBW a 1.25" receiver. Picked up a 2" to 1.25" adapter at U-haul, but the now two pins (stinger into receiver into receiver) gave too much play. So I milled a 6 sided slot into the solid bar and inserted a nut! Now I can bolt one of them in tight.
And now we also need a shot of that nifty solution for your hitch.
I can host if you e-mail them to me.
I have the same problem with mine (too much play) as well. I don't notice it on my trucks (probably because there is more isolation between the frame and the body, so the noise is muffled), but the rattling can be bone-jarring (esp. when towing a trailer) in the Subaru. I solved the issue by cutting a 2" x 1/8" strip of steel about 4" long, then bending it in the middle at a 90-degree angle. I then take my 2# sledge and wedge it between the top of the receiver and the shaft, which locks it in tight as a drum.
I ran my 1100-mile fishing trip with that set up and it was perfect.
Kept in a bag in the back is my little lunchtime getaway machine, a Dahon Vitesse folding bike! I've used this from early March thru December for the past 3 years. I do a loop around the site, then head out into traffic to get lunch.
In my hand is the modified 2" to 1.25" adapter for the cargo tray and bike rack. The 1/2" hex nut pulls the stinger in tight with the receiver. I add a 5/8" nut to the cargo tray to lock that side to the adapter, making for rattle-free assembly.
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What tires are those? Seems like the tread width nearly matches the section width.
I realized this when I was suddenly wondering how my average annual had suddenly jumped up to 10k??? It is really 9k per year!
The wheels are Tire House Sports Edition Fox 5 (made by Fomb in Italy). Inexpensive, yet they look nice and have held up beautifully. That is actually my winter package, with Dunlop Wintersport M2 tires. The tread is insufficient for another winter, so I decided to burn them off over the summer. Trouble is, with my low annual mileage, that could take forever! Come November, I'll go shopping for snows again.
Given that this is my $800 beater, I didn't want to splurge for the best possible winter tire (in terms of expense). I decided to go with the Continental ExtremeWinterContact (185/65R14). The problem is that I made this decision before seeing what was available locally (which is pretty much just those crappy studs I already have, and Blizzak WS-60). So, after much ado, I was finally able to get a local company to order them in for me at $370 ($30 cheaper than ordering off TireRack, delivered). After I get them mounted, I will be in for nearly $450, but I expect they should last me the life of the car unless I decide to be a real glutton for punishment and keep the sorry thing for more than another four years!
Her last snows were on garbage steel wheels. They rode badly (difficult even with a roadforce balancer to get right), so I ordered them on new alloys. Tire Rack Sports Edition F7 this time. Only now they are made in China, and not finished as nicely as the Italian wheels from years back.
Let me know if you cannot find the CR article, and I'll search for it. It's around the house somewhere.
---------------
That said and put to bed, I seem to have some sort of nasty residue all over the sides of my Forester. I cannot tell it is there until I start scrubbing the car, but once I have cleaned it, the surface is very tacky. Try as I might, I cannot seem to get it off. I thought maybe it was sap or something falling from above, but the hood, roof, etc., is fine... the only problem is along the sides. Any thoughts as to what it may be or how I can remove it?
We've had one of the warmest summers on record, on the heals of last summer which was the second coldest. Frankly, I was in my element this year. Coupled with a lighter lab workload this year, I was able to do more swimming with the kids, and made great strides in landscaping. Yesterday I took the trailer and got another yard of mulch (free from the town - poison ivy and all...) for the distant beds that I'm making. We still had 90+ last week, mid 80's this week. The thought of winter saddens me.
Fortunately, a Subaru OEM E3610AS802 (Yakima LockJaw) came up on Craigslist last week. I had to add $22 worth of aero crossbar brackets E361SXA100 from my Subi dealer, but it was still a relatively cheap experiment for a unit in near mint condition.
Turns out I'm not a rooftop kind of guy. Last night I experimented with one of my 'expendable' bikes of average weight. Maybe 10 years ago I could, but I struggled with the weight and poor leverage over my head semi-onehanded while trying to lock it in place. It scared the c*&p out of me that I'd lose control when tired. I guess it's going back up on Craigslist, and I'll instead look for a nicer hitch unit.
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