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Subaru Crew - Cleaning Interior & Exterior Surfaces

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Comments

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    You may also want to consider using a clay bar for stubborn bug/tar and brake deposits. It's easy to use and will gently remove those embedded contaimants.

    How often do you wax/seal your vehicle? One way to keep bugs from being difficult to remove is to have a fresh coat of sealant on the paint. Since you only detail occaisonally, I would recommend Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. I've heard it's one of the best all-in-one products out there that's readily available at any auto parts store.

    Ken
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the suggestion, Ken, but I doubt I'll ever do that "clay bar" thing. Only heard of it since getting the Subaru and I just don't think I'd bother with it. Like I said before, this car wasn't bought for it's looks. ;)

    I might give the NXT Tech Wax stuff a try, since I only hand-waxed once in 2 years and I'd still like to keep that to a minimum. I've only been doing wash/wax with cheap all-in-one stuff every few months and after this last wash, using the bug remover then protector (only on front, sides, mirrors) I noticed a large area on the roof wasn't beading at all.

    Of course, nothing cleans like a hendheld soapy sponge. Pressure-washer never can get the dirt film off without showing bands of cleaner and dirtier places. I messed up part of the pinstripes trying to get real close.

    My car cleaning is so bad, I don't even dry, so I get terrible spotting from my awful water here. :P I've been very happy with the brake dust repelling wheel cleaner, anyhow, very easy cleaning them.

    However, if I can at least keep a good enough wax on there I'm thinking it will be enough. Already have several paint chips on the hood, the largest I dabbed on some touchup paint and sealer onto. I'd like the car to be in fair shape for the predicted 8 years or so I'll own it (6 more to go!).
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    No problem. If you don't like to dry and have hard water, you might want to give the Mr. Clean Auto Dry a try. It's an all-in-one contraption you can buy at your local auto or hardware store (even Target sells them) that's designed to eliminate the need for a bucket and provides spotless drying. It sprays water, soapy water and filtered water all from the same unit attached to your garden hose.

    Claying really isn't hard at all. You just take this silly putty like stuff, spray some soapy water or quick detailer on a section of your washed car and glide it back and forth until smooth.

    NXT sounds like the perfect fit for you since it cleans well, goes on and off easily and lasts far longer than any conventional wax.

    We'll make a detailer out of you yet. ;-)

    Ken
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    You definitely won't make it into the OCD club here:-)
    And with the minimal attention that you give your car I wouldn't think it will look in even fair condition in 6 years from now.

    Cheers Pat. :D
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    I might give that clay bar stuff a look, just don't count on it. ;)

    After seeing how easily the paint chips at the front of the hood I got a little less enthusiastic about keeping the new car nice and shiny. :D I had read what others were saying about potential problems with weak Subaru paint even before getting this Impreza OBS, but I really didn't expect it to be that bad. Well, maybe I make it sound worse than it is but my GMC truck didn't have such chipping. Oops, forgot already... it had a bug deflector. :blush: And it was higher off the ground anyhow. Still, I remember the last time I had a small car and it didn't get chipped like this one has.

    I was also thinking of new paint someday if the chipping becomes bad enough. I'd like a medium gray metallic overall, no more two-tone thing over the wheelwells.

    Either that or leave it alone, like some other people I know do with their "work" vehicle paintjobs, which have deteriorated severely and rust is only one step away. :sick: :P Nah, I couldn't live with that!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Can anyone share some advice on power random orbit buffers? One of the things that keeps me from regular waxing is the time taken to apply and hand buff off. Does a buffer help? Do you use it to apply the liquid as well as polish it off when dry? Tips on use, pads, technique?

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I have one Steve, but to tell you the truth I find it a PITA, I would just as soon wax and buff by hand. You also tend to find little blemish's that you can attend to before they become big blemish's when you do it by hand.

    Maybe I am a bit strange, but detailing the cars is my way of unwinding.

    Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Steve,

    The first thing I would look at is using a more easy to use detailing product. Are you still using a traditional wax? The best off the shelf detailing product that's one-step is Meguiar's NXT Wax. It cleans and protects in one step and the results are supposed to be very good.

    Now, if you want to get serious, skip the orbital buffer and get a Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher. It's literally fool-proof (unlike cheapo buffers that can burn your paint) and the results are breathtaking. You saw that reflection on my LGT wagon last year. ;-)

    If you Google Porter Cable 7424, you'll find tons of websites and detailing stores that will explain how it all works and how easy it's to use.

    Keep in mind, however, that going the machine route is not the panacea of easy detailing. For what you save on elbow grease, you do gain the burden of having to deal with a tool and it's accessories. You'll need to spend some money on some upfront items like pads as well as maintain the pads too.

    What machine detailing will allow you to do is get an incredible shine that would not be possible by hand detailing.

    One other cool thing to note is that the Porter Cable 7424 is simply a 7335 or 7336 with a different counterweight and pad -- the main unit is the same. The other two models are marketed as polishers. You could save some money by finding one of these used and simply change the counterweight and backing pad. Or, you can leverage the use of a 7424 by making it into a polisher for your woodworking and other around the house needs.

    Let me know if you need any more info.

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I borrowed a Craftsman 9" random orbital and did the Mothers 2 step polish and wax on both vehicles recently. I spent about 3 hours on the MPV and about 2 hours on my FXT. I wanted to try out this method to see if it would eliminate some swirls and other minor scuffs that AIO and NuFinish scratch remover wouldn't. I was amazed with the deep shine that it produced on the dark colors (midnight blue mica on the MPV and black mica on my FXT).

    I took my time during the process and started out with very light pressure. As I progressed, I would ease in additional pressure as needed. The Craftsman unit is heavy and big, and the power button requires a bit of a reach to keep it on (push on/off, doesn't stay on). I also didn't like the power cord dangling from the unit, most times I tried to throw it over my shoulder so it wouldn't come in contact with the surface. I sense a Christmas gift idea for myself... ;)

    Any cordless models worth recommending?

    -Brian
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I haven't heard of any cordless models, probably because the batteries simply wouldn't last long enough to do a thorough job. It's not quite like the intermittent use of a drill driver.

    Most folks simply throw the cord over their shoulder. Those that are even more OCD will use a microfiber sheath on the cord to prevent it from doing anything to their finish.

    The porter cable I mention above is really easy to use. It has a stay-on power switch and is easily operated with one hand. It also has a variable speed dial to let you fine tune the polishing action.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Ding ding ding, Brian gets the prize. The whole reason my thoughts turned to this was because I bought an impact driver today! OK, a little explaining...

    A year or so ago I bought into the Ryobe 18v cordless system, and have been adding items as need and spare change allows. No, it is not as powerful as say Dewalt, but the price is incredible for what you get. For the handy homeowner, it is more than adequate. Ryobe makes many of the Craftsman powertools as well. Anyhow, they recently added a cordless orbital polisher to the line. Years ago I had a corded beast and gave it away. Tangling with the cord was 50% of my problem.

    Ken, I use mostly Meguiars. Gold Class, and more recently, their less expensive but less damaging to rubber Cleaner Wax & Quick Detailer. But time is the problem, Pat. As much as I like doing it, I'm lucky if I get to it more than a few times a year - not nearly enough. That leaves automatic car washes as the only option. Though maybe a cordless unit would be the ticket to more events.

    Steve
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    Steve,

    Enjoy that impact driver. I bought one back in the spring because I had to rebuild my old shed, and it is GREAT. You can forget having the bit slip in the screw slots and rounding them off. Even if you don't have any projects right now, do yourself a favor and get some scrap wood and a bunch of sheetrock screws and see for yourself how great that thing is. You'll never want to use a regular cordless drill/driver for driving screws again!

    Len
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Steve,

    Since you're already familiar with Meguiars, give their NXT Tech Wax a whirl. Although I haven't used NXT specifically, I have been using synthetic products for some time and I also have used Gold Class in the past.

    The ease of use, shine and durability of NXT I think will help with your time constraints.

    Ken
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Like Steve, I too have a Ryobi kit. The one with a chainsaw, drill, saws, etc. Got it for only $200 plus whatever it was for shipping.

    I love the chainsaw, even if it does leak chain oil. Haven't used my gas-powered saw ever since.

    Just got the impact driver earlier this year. My first of that kind of tool and I really like it. I'm only a part-time tool user anyway so I wanted a set of cordless stuff that fits my usage.

    I bought a Chicago Electric 18 Volt 10" buffer/polisher last year to wax my Impreza Outback Sport, thinking I'd do a waxing more often but I've only done that once. Meguiar's Cleaner Wax (after looking at bottle on shelf to make sure) is what I have here. I only wash/wax using some all-in-one stuff.

    I checked on that Ryobi buffer, hadn't heard of it before now, and it sounds like the better choice-- maybe. Cost the same as this other one (possibly less). The 10" pad seemed oversized, so a 6" pad could be better.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I decided to go impact as I need to do some repair/upgrades on my 7 year old deck. I only used it for a few minutes the other night to fix some loose boards, but was favorably impressed. I was able to extract old square drive screws and put them back in again without breakage or head camout.

    Home Depot does not have the Ryobi One+ buffer. I'd love to hear from someone who does before I consider it.

    Steve
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Too late for me to edit my other message...

    Another reason I would get that Ryobi buffer is because I already misplaced the AC adapter/charger for the Chicago Electric buffer! Well, not exactly misplaced or lost.

    What happened is this, I put the buffer on a shelf in my shed and put the charger indoors with a bunch of other AC adapters I already had for everything from printers to phones. When I went to use it recently (to try and help with a recent bug&tar removal) I discovered there wasn't anything with the brand name or 18 Volts written on it. Closest match was something like a 20 Volt DC output. I used that to charge the battery and it seemed alright. Thing of it is, I'm still not absolutely sure what goes with it.

    At least when you have one specific battery type, along with tools and charger used for that, there's no mistaking what goes with what. ;^)

    I, too, would like to hear from anyone with that buffer. Maybe I can find someplace talking about it. I used to go to a Ryobi forum so I'll check there.
    http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php
    Searched there and I think only one person tells about a bad pad on a buffer but doesn't say which one, could be their corded not cordless.

    One other Ryobi tool I'd like to use is their Stapler/Nailer but unfortunately I've heard it isn't (or wasn't if changes were ever made) all that good. I almost always have something to staple eventually.

    Remembered the name of the kit I got, called The Works. Also, I added a spiral (or speed) saw to it this summer. Thinking of getting the Inflator next-- for my Subaru's tires, of course. :)
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Bob,

    I'm a step ahead of you, and searched the Ryobi tool forum, but no posts on the orbital buffer yet. I may post the question directly and see if there are any responses.

    I got one of the smaller kits (drill, light, reciprocating saw, circular saw & vacuum, charger & 2 batteries). The basic kit was on sale at HD a year ago for $129. I have since added the jig saw, corner cat sander, right angle drill, another charger & 2 batteries, and now the impact driver.

    The story on the stapler/nailer is that it was withdrawn, and replaced by a stapler only. Some reported problems with the wide stapler anvil marring workpieces when driving smaller headed nails. So the new unit is a dedicated tool.

    Steve
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Sounds alright to me, Steve, I have a cheap corded Stanley stapler/nailer and I never could get the brads into wood so I just use staples.

    I've wanted a cordless one a long time. Having to plug into a wall for power can be trouble. Case in point, stapling to repair parts of my deck-turned-screenroom while 10' up on a ladder with the 8' wire plus extension. Hated being tethered like that. Same goes for drilling, sawing, whatever. I was an AC-only guy until a few years ago and I am loving the change! Maybe cordless stuff can't always replace AC but I'm not missing those other power tools much.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Got an answer, Bob.

    http://www.ryobitools.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topics&forum=103

    I posted a question on the cordless buffer, and got one real answer. Still, I would have liked to hear from someone who had a broader experience base (as in how this compares to a premium corded, like the P-C that Ken uses).

    Steve
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Thanks, after reading that I got to thinking about things I don't know yet, mainly the 4000 RPM speed.

    My Chicago Electric buffer is variable 0-2500 RPM. I've seen nothing about the Ryobi being variable. I remember thinking full speed was plenty fast if I got too light-handed. There would be a chance then that 4000 RPM-- even though that's no-load speed-- might fling wax everywhere. I don't know, this being my first buffer and used only once makes the whole thing that much more difficult to decide on anything.

    When I got the CE buffer I was only thinking of cordless and large to make waxing easy. Now I realize the big size can be a problem.

    Anyway... I am curious about the relatively high speed and any possibility of it being variable. Maybe I'll find out at a Home Depot.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Steve,

    Saw that and one more thought came to mind -- what kind of pad accessories are available for it? Aside from having the proper motion (random, dual action) the type of pad you use makes a huge difference in the outcome.

    The easiest to use systems have a velcro-backed plate you attach to the buffer. Then you attach foam pads (different based on the application) that have the mating side of the velcro strip on them. The pads are very secure and are easy to remove and replace.

    Too bad you didn't live nearby -- I'd loan you my PC to try out! :-)

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Lets go one better. If I get back to my favorite vendor in Sunnyvale in early December and buy you dinner, will you bring the PC along and teach me all there is to know about wax on - wax off??? I'm sure that Kate & Jim would like to learn as well!!!

    No, you are right. There is a lot to like about cordless, but the buffer "system" sounds like it is immature as a product. Gee, Ken. They need a good product manager to make it right! Then you can even play a part in the commercial shoot!

    Just busting on you...

    Steve
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    PC detailing 101 -- no problem!

    If you don't mind carrying back extra luggage, I have this old corded random orbital buffer that I don't use anymore. I think it's a Car and Driver branded model that I picked up at Target many years ago. It's yours if you want it.

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    by installing the snow tires (albeit it a week *after* the 17" snowfall) on DW's MPV over the past weekend. It was about 40F and windy, but I still washed both sets of wheels (as well as waxed the steelies).

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I actually have a set, too. Maybe this weekend.

    I gotta change the stereo in the Miata first, though. It was skipping, then the lights started to go out. Now it's dark AND skips. So I got a cheap MP3 player, but I'm putting it in myself.

    -juice
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Hey folks,

    I did a search of this topic and it seems that the recommendation a few years ago in cleaning leather was Lexol. I was just wondering if you folks still recommend that. I have to try and remove ink stains from my front seat.

    If not Lexol, any other suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Lexol is as good as anything out there mark, try a little WD 40 on a rag to try remove the ink stain then some leather treatment.

    Cheers Pat.
  • thunderchildthunderchild Member Posts: 18
    I do my interior with Lexol and I do my waxing with Nu-Finish. Both are great and I have used them on all my vehicles... Man, I did not know this thread was so old. I should have checked first. I have my 3 month's old 2009 Outback 2.5i Limited. First Subaru i have owned. Love it so far!! :)
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    I'm still love'n my 1998 OBW Ltd 5 spd. Just finished putting a coat of wax on it. Next comes the Blizzaks for this winter. Only 116,000 miles on the clock. It's driven once or twice a week. Plus it is towed behind our motor home when we're traveling (5,000 miles this summer).

    MNSteve
  • speterson1speterson1 Member Posts: 228
    Plus it is towed behind our motor home when we're traveling (5,000 miles this summer).

    How do you tow it? Is it on a flatbed? It's my understanding that's the only way to safely tow an all-wheel drive vehicle.

    Just curious...
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Some cars are able to be towed 'wheels down' with little or no modifications. Manual-transmission Subarus are one example. Motorhome magazines often list models of 'dinghy' vehicles and their towing requirements & limitations.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Subarus with manual transmissions are towable on all four wheels. Probably have about 25,000 towed miles on mine. But I noticed this time that there is rust bubbling under the paint coming from under the middle roof "rail". When it gets warm again I'll have to remove the rail and fix the rust spot. Been really trying to keep this car clean (try that living on a dirt/gravel road :( ).
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited August 2010
    Haven't touched the exterior of my OBW (other than maybe a semi-annual automated car wash) in 2 years. Next month she'll be 8, and with the family down in NYC on Saturday, I finally got to do the exterior right. The deep forest green looked hazy white - presumably the clearcoat oxidized pretty badly.

    Normally it might have been Gold Class, but for this job Meg Cleaner Wax. She sure did clean up nice! The scratches and old swirls buffed out, and the finish looks more like the average 3 year old car now.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I demand pics now. Before and After, preferably. :shades:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Seconded.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I can probably get some before it rains, but the last 'pre' pictures were from a few weeks back taken by cell phone when I was pulling a utility trailer to get a load of mulch.

    Oh, Wes - that reminds me. Two weeks ago I bought a rear cargo tray for days when I need to haul bagged items, but don't need the full trailer. Also a Carry-On from Lowes Homecenter. Nice to have the mess out back, rather than in the Outback! (sorry....)

    I had to do some nifty machining using a drill press in the lab. The tray comes with a 2" stinger, the OBW a 1.25" receiver. Picked up a 2" to 1.25" adapter at U-haul, but the now two pins (stinger into receiver into receiver) gave too much play. So I milled a 6 sided slot into the solid bar and inserted a nut! Now I can bolt one of them in tight.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited August 2010
    Grainy cell phone pics are OK for the Before anyway.

    And now we also need a shot of that nifty solution for your hitch. :D

    I can host if you e-mail them to me.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Nice, Steve!

    I have the same problem with mine (too much play) as well. I don't notice it on my trucks (probably because there is more isolation between the frame and the body, so the noise is muffled), but the rattling can be bone-jarring (esp. when towing a trailer) in the Subaru. I solved the issue by cutting a 2" x 1/8" strip of steel about 4" long, then bending it in the middle at a 90-degree angle. I then take my 2# sledge and wedge it between the top of the receiver and the shaft, which locks it in tight as a drum.

    I ran my 1100-mile fishing trip with that set up and it was perfect.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited September 2010
    OK - pictures of an almost 8 year old OBW with 82k miles after a good scrubbing and wax job. As you can see, she is typically parked away from other cars, so the metal is in well above average shape.

    Kept in a bag in the back is my little lunchtime getaway machine, a Dahon Vitesse folding bike! I've used this from early March thru December for the past 3 years. I do a loop around the site, then head out into traffic to get lunch.

    In my hand is the modified 2" to 1.25" adapter for the cargo tray and bike rack. The 1/2" hex nut pulls the stinger in tight with the receiver. I add a 5/8" nut to the cargo tray to lock that side to the adapter, making for rattle-free assembly.

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

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  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Looks nice, Steve; especially in the third photo with the sun glinting off the paint.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, and those wheels/tires do a good job filling up the wheel well.

    What tires are those? Seems like the tread width nearly matches the section width.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Oh man, I'm going to have to send back that expensive mail-order engineering degree if I keep this stuff up. September 2001 to September 2010 is 9 years old, not 8!
    I realized this when I was suddenly wondering how my average annual had suddenly jumped up to 10k??? It is really 9k per year!

    The wheels are Tire House Sports Edition Fox 5 (made by Fomb in Italy). Inexpensive, yet they look nice and have held up beautifully. That is actually my winter package, with Dunlop Wintersport M2 tires. The tread is insufficient for another winter, so I decided to burn them off over the summer. Trouble is, with my low annual mileage, that could take forever! Come November, I'll go shopping for snows again.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Here I go on a horrid tangent, but I just purchased new winter tires for my Escort today. It came with some studded tires, but I find those to be absolutely horrible in the winter - barely better than your average all-season, if that. I think part of the problem is that they are old (manufacture date is 2002, if I recall correctly), so the rubber just can't handle the cold and remain soft.

    Given that this is my $800 beater, I didn't want to splurge for the best possible winter tire (in terms of expense). I decided to go with the Continental ExtremeWinterContact (185/65R14). The problem is that I made this decision before seeing what was available locally (which is pretty much just those crappy studs I already have, and Blizzak WS-60). So, after much ado, I was finally able to get a local company to order them in for me at $370 ($30 cheaper than ordering off TireRack, delivered). After I get them mounted, I will be in for nearly $450, but I expect they should last me the life of the car unless I decide to be a real glutton for punishment and keep the sorry thing for more than another four years!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Actually, I put those (Continental ExtremeWinterContact) on my wife's Honda Odyssey last year, and was thinking about going with them on the OBW this winter. If you didn't see it, CR did a winter tire test last November (?). The Conti was not absolutely outstanding as a snow tire, but seemed to be very balanced. Given that we can a weeks of dry roads, followed by a drenching rain, heavy snow or ice event, it is important not to go over the top on snow traction only to totally give up wet braking, for instance. You might feel different given that you drive on hard pack for weeks at a time. TR's review of winter tires also gave the Conti high marks. Plus, it was cheap compared to some of the other tires out there.

    Her last snows were on garbage steel wheels. They rode badly (difficult even with a roadforce balancer to get right), so I ordered them on new alloys. Tire Rack Sports Edition F7 this time. Only now they are made in China, and not finished as nicely as the Italian wheels from years back.

    Let me know if you cannot find the CR article, and I'll search for it. It's around the house somewhere.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Yeah, most of the driving here is in "ice" conditions for about six months straight. Snow events, while common, are typically very light (1 to 3 inches). The Ultra Grip Ice tires on my Forester are absolutely fantastic on all surfaces, especially deep snow, but are also more expensive than the Continental. Since I never take the Escort off true roads, I figure there are very few times I will need that extra capability the Goodyear might give me. And, since winter tires are a "new thing" for me, I am open to trying out different brands to see what works best and when. Granted, my cars are night and day different in terms of their base capabilities, but the same tire is not the best for all situations, either! :)

    ---------------

    That said and put to bed, I seem to have some sort of nasty residue all over the sides of my Forester. I cannot tell it is there until I start scrubbing the car, but once I have cleaned it, the surface is very tacky. Try as I might, I cannot seem to get it off. I thought maybe it was sap or something falling from above, but the hood, roof, etc., is fine... the only problem is along the sides. Any thoughts as to what it may be or how I can remove it?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited September 2010
    Something your friend Sara left on the roads? (modicons don't seem to be working...) I'd start by stealing a bit of your wife's nail polish remover, basically watered down acetone. It's a great general purpose solvent that works on a variety of gunk. Follow by rinsing well and some fresh wax as it will strip it all in the process.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Thanks, Steve; I'll give it a shot if I get around to washing cars again before winter sets in.... only a month away now! :surprise:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Winter.... now that's a nasty thought.

    We've had one of the warmest summers on record, on the heals of last summer which was the second coldest. Frankly, I was in my element this year. Coupled with a lighter lab workload this year, I was able to do more swimming with the kids, and made great strides in landscaping. Yesterday I took the trailer and got another yard of mulch (free from the town - poison ivy and all...) for the distant beds that I'm making. We still had 90+ last week, mid 80's this week. The thought of winter saddens me.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I'm a pretty avid cyclist, and was looking for a better way to transport my various bicycles. The folder is great for short road trips and is always with me, but getting the others around requires putting the hitch rack on. The thought of an 'ever present' roof rack was attractive, but I wasn't sure I could deal with one. And depending on the features, it can be an expensive investment.

    Fortunately, a Subaru OEM E3610AS802 (Yakima LockJaw) came up on Craigslist last week. I had to add $22 worth of aero crossbar brackets E361SXA100 from my Subi dealer, but it was still a relatively cheap experiment for a unit in near mint condition.

    Turns out I'm not a rooftop kind of guy. Last night I experimented with one of my 'expendable' bikes of average weight. Maybe 10 years ago I could, but I struggled with the weight and poor leverage over my head semi-onehanded while trying to lock it in place. It scared the c*&p out of me that I'd lose control when tired. I guess it's going back up on Craigslist, and I'll instead look for a nicer hitch unit.

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Or, you could spring for a carbon fiber road bike that weighs around 25#. :shades:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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