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Subaru Legacy: Typical high-mileage repairs?
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Comments
I don't think a strut by itself can provide both a smoother ride and firmer cornering. To get these two in combination requires some sophisticated suspension work and I don't believe just a set of struts are capable of delivering this combination of ride characteristics. Stiffer struts will cut down "wallowing" and brake dive but also make the ride harsher. As for cornering, you might cut down body roll a bit but really sway bars/bushings are what you want here.
So you can get better control.
-juice
It was not starter motor brushes, but starter contacts: little copper thingies I could have easily replaced had I known what was what.
I've replaced struts, stabilizers (due to pot holes), full brakes, speedometer cables. Check engine light is on more than off. Tachometer came back on when speedometer was out. I need that tach! Fuel gauge doesn't work. $2300 this year already and $1200 last year.
I think maybe the odometer was rolled back on this car. Bought in '94 with 43,000 miles.
I still love my Subaru and pray for its return to reliable! I am unemployed so I can't even think of trading up!
-juice
Good luck,
Greg
Greg
I think it might be the right front limit switch. Where exactly is this switch, if in fact it is causing the problem. Thanks
bit
-juice
PS Ford covered nothing. It was beyond the 3/36 warranty so I was SOL.
Local dealer has a 97 GT Wgn, 75k miles, cloth, CD, cass, moon, good but not great shape, asking $11,900 but came down to $10,500 even though I wasn't negotiating. This seems like a pretty decent price, but it really depends on how much work may be needed on this unit and how much maintenance has been done up to this point. The latter is hard to tell b/c original owner is from Illinois and I presume dealer in Detroit bought vehicle at auction.
Only problem I noticed is something the salesman pointed out to me first: something funny with the steering. Car seems to pull right - noticeable, but not a ton. Steering wheel seemed a little floaty/loose - I'm not sure how much 'play' is typical in these vehicles. I've driven my parents' 95 LS sedan several times, but not often enough for a good comparison. He thinks it's the tires (Mich Pilot 205-55-16), which are almost out of useful life, and said their service dept. would take a look at it once I showed enough interest in buying the car.
Sorry I didn't search the boards first, but I don't have time-- my brother needs to buy something this week. Any help is greatly appreciated. My brother is anxious to get a Subaru wagon. Looking around for him has made me want one too!
-juice
For the past few years it has had a nasty, intermittent pinging problem that is only partially cured by premium fuel. Worse in hot weather. New O2 Sensor did not help. Subaru dealer says "what problem?". Recent check by competant mechanic found a dirty connector to fuel pressure sensor and he adjusted fuel pressure up a bit, but this did not help.
>>Anyone else have severe pinging that you were able to cure? What was the "fix"?
THANKS
REEDT
I'd try a bottle of Techron and then run the engine up to redline at least a couple of times to see if that cleans it out.
REEDT: try subarparts.com for a wholesale price on that part. Or, check out a local junk yard to see if they have any Subies like yours.
-juice
I've had it for about a year and it hasn't had any other effect besides the noise. You may want to consider thinner oil unless you're in a very hot climate.
-juice
I think at 169K an engine is pretty much a dead duck....oh, sure, you see engines that go further, but the last 1/4 of its life isn't necessarily the best (kind of like us!).
If I bought a car with 169K on it, I would seek a severe discount off book price. Basically, an engine like that could give up the ghost at any time. That's a lot of miles.
Subaru head mechanic told me Subaru put NON-hydraulic lifters and the noise is normal. I live in Florida so it's not that the oil is really cold and thick when the car starts. Noise goes away as engine warms.
approaching 60K with no problems. Still knocking.
Is anyone having a problem with their fuel gauges sticking at 3/4 when it's full? My local dealer said it is quite common in Subaru's. They want to charge me 600.00 to fix 2 semi units. The service man seemed to know exactly what I was talking about. Does anyone know if there is a recall on this? I shouldn't have to pay for that if it's a common problem. HELP!!
Any comments regarding owner loyalty and repurchase of subies? Comments concerning subies vs. hondas etc? much thanks. email me if you want aikifarm@hotmail.com
There are a lot of repeat buyers, but I'd ask in the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members topic. Many have owned several, and currently own more than one.
Our family has three. I bought the first, then my cousin, then my dad. Our next car (for the wife) will very likely be a Subie. I'm hoping the Legacy Blitzen will be out by then.
-juice
Greg
Patti
I drive hers too, though, so I wouldn't be missing out.
-juice
Try an H6, too. The press was saying $32k was too much for a Subie, but you can actually get an LL Bean H6 wagon for $25,993. Fitzgerald Auto Mall in MD has several for that price, and it includes freight.
-juice
Greg
I am currently considering a purchase of the 1999 Subaru Brighton with 92K. Auto. Mileage looks too high, but I am attracted by the age and modets price (seller asking 7500$). I will very appreciate any comments on what to look for in this Subaru with such a high mileage?
I had an Imreza '95 2WD before with 120K and have experienced few electric problems (sensors) and changed CV joints 3 times along with fuel pump.
Any comments on the subject are very welcome.
Thanks!!!
Dennis
All 99s were AWD, but there was no maintenance required on those. Just check that the timing belt and the 60k mile service was done, and ask for other regular service records. The Brigthon had the 2.2l engine, 137hp IIRC. Since it's auto, an ATF flush would be a good idea if it was not done already, for about $80-$100.
Take a thorough test drive. Luckily, any problems tend to stand out and be obvious. Listen for pinging or drivetrain whine. Crawl underneath and look for any signs of fluid leaks, which are not that common.
If it's quiet, smooth, and clean, odds are you're fine. You may want to have a mechanic give it a quick look-see.
-juice
-mike
I can't see why you would want a shield to protect the engine from an external heat source under the car! I could see there is some dumb govt regulation which says you can't have the engine radiating so much heat to surfaces under it that it could be a fire hazard!
-mike
Speaking of replacing, I'm looking at new tires before winter. My mechanic has recommended yokahama. Tirerack has some good reviews for wet, dry and snow. Any opinions? The stock size is 185/70R14. Can I change tire size without changing wheels? and is there any advantage in doing so?
Thanks for any input,
Kevin
I've got Michelin X Ones ( I think they are the same as the Michelin Radial X (XSE) in places like Sams Club etc) on the 92 L now, works very well in most weathers including light snow, though I use my 98 GT with snowtires when its really bad so I can't really say how good the X ones are in bad snow. Had Pirelli 500s on the LS, not as good as the X ones.The X ones have incredible tread life, got almost 30K on them and they look slightly worn only.
You can change the size a little, as long as its not so much bigger it doesn't hit anything when you turn the front wheel! Probably a 195/60/14 would fit fine. Tirerack are great for knowing what does and doesn't fit but sometimes its just trial and error.Your speedo may be out a little but not anything of significance.
If you have lots of snow where you live, get some real snowtires, it really makes a difference. I still have a set of snowtires for the 92 L but since its my "spare" car, I have been lazy last 2 winter seasons and not put them on. But on the regular all season tires, it does not handle anywhere as well on ice/snow as when it had snowtires.
-mike
-mike