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Dodge Dakota - General Topic

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Comments

  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    Haven't posted in a while- a happy and healthy new year to all. Wanted to share a positive dealer experience-since many of them are bad. Went to Wayne Dodge in Wayne, NJ for an oil change on my '00 QC w/9200 miles. Mentioned about a slight shake when I apply the brakes. They checked it out and ORDERED NEW ROTORS!! I was very pleased. Other than that, it's a great vehicle. I also mounted a bumper-hitch receiver in the bed (flat to the floor and way up front), mounted a Superwinch to a hitch step and ran a 4 gauge welding cable to the rear. Now I can pull things like log splitters and disabled quads up into the bed for transport. The volt meter doesn't even budge when I turn it on (heavy duty service option). I also have the option of putting it into the regular trailer hitch for heavier pulling. I guess I'm letting my imagination run wild-but it is fun!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Spike, an oil analysis woud be definitive, but I too was a smoke watcher. Namely on coke ovens, as the company I represented designed and built a rather sophisticated mobile unit for changing out the doors in the ovens with enough speed to pass the time allowance for emissions during the change over. Many of the diesel engines that our end users purchased would blow black/blue smoke and the first thought was, blow-by and I need a new engine. Most often, more fuel than the available air would support and just another case of "loading up." Partly because John Deere was a bit late getting into aneroid technology, and Cummins engines were "born with aneroids." I am certain that your engine is fine, but it is important that you be certain. Besides truck stops, CAT dealers and others also provide such services. Now is a good time to check it out, while you are in the warranty window. Good luck.

    Bookitty
  • aschro1aschro1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Dakota CC 4x4 with auto trans and a 3.9 V6 eng. When pressing on the accelerator while in reverse,there is a definite clicking noise coming from the trans.I can hear it through the floorboard,but am not sure if it can be heard outside the cab,though I suspect it can.I am wondering if anyone else has the same thing or can explain it.I'm happy with my Dak so far and the noise doesn't appear to hinder operation in any way.The dealer will be notified of my concern.In the meantime,any comments!
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    Coke Ovens? They bake it? is that why it's brown and 7-up is clear?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Harold, if you wanted the recipe, all you had to do was ask.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    bookitty
    Would those Coke ovens be in Elizabeth PA?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Bruce, the making of steel requires coke made from coal to input carbon into the iron. Every steel mill has to have a facility to produce coke. It is the dirtiest operation within the mill
    and goes back to turn of the century "technology?"
    I have been in many steel mills in PA, but not in Elizabeth. Steel was usually made in areas serviced by rivers or other waterways in order to barge in the coal. The mills I visited were in OH, PA, MD and IL. Bethlehem, U.S. Steel and Republic Steel. Forgive me Bruce, you asked for the time; And I told you how to build a watch.
    Bookitty
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Maybe its a bit of paranoia, but I've done some checking and found a local heavy equipment dealer that also has a fluids analysis laboratory (Cleveland Bros, Harrisburg, PA). For $12.45, you get a several ounce bottle and sampling instructions. They apparently look for wear metals, anti-freeze, soot (diesels), etc. They require several ounces of new oil of the type currently in use to base line their instruments. They also suggested to have at least 3K on the current oil change so the sample would collect the "signs" of any potential problems they're looking for. Results are available within 24 hours.

    They said they usually see "car / light truck owners" too late and a lot of damage has already occurred. Big equipment operators usually test their oil every 250 hours and presumably in time to remedy a situation.

    Heck, for $12.45, I'm game. Just turned 10K miles this week and have 2.6K miles on the current Mobil 1 oil change.

    The only caveat was on proper sampling technique. They recommend on "not" getting bottom sediments. Method One: come down the dip stick tube with a sealed hard-walled tube hooked to a syringe. The bottom of the tube is sealed and there's a small hole in the side about 6" up. Method Two: during a normal oil change, let half of the oil out through the plug hole to flush out the sediments then take your sample from the last half of the oil draining out.

    I'll probably do this every 10K-15K just to know what's happening. If it turns out to be a Mickey Mouse test, I'll keep looking but if it seems worthwhile, I'll post some of the basic results.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Spike, it is not a Mickey Mouse test. All of the CAT dealers that I have called upon have a very sophisticated laboratory for testing lubricants as well as hydraulic fluids (most are versions of ATF and are good for use in air tools). My local dealer was Ransome Lift, a division of Giles and Ransome. If you have any suspicions, this should put them to rest, or confirm that a problem is present. I have a feeling that you will find everything "normal." I hope that I'm correct.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) The idea of analyzing lubricating fluids (e. Spectrometric) is common. The railroads have been using this for many years.

    In order to actually get trend information from an engine, The measurement needs to be taken at regular intervals. They will even be able to tell you what kind of oil you are running.

    Also a knowledge of the materials used in the engine is needed to truly understand the trace metals (wear indicators) found during the analisys.

    BTW.... SLICK50 has been tested using this technique and the wear indicators were found to drop SIGNIFICANTLY during treatment and STAYED LOWERED for many thousand miles AFTER the treatment.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Stopped by the Caterpillar dealer and picked up my sample bottles. One for the "raw" Mobil 1 and one for the used (3K miles later). No doubt that this lab could probably determine the original oil on its own but it did ask for that info as well as the weight, etc. The lab noted that it a data base to determine wear metals. I guess I'll find out if their data base Dodge truck engine applies to the 4.7L.

    I'm now waiting for another 400 miles and some warmer weather in February to do some sampling.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    bpeebles - You've got to know that any mention of Slick50 is like putting up a "lightening rod" and we'll all be burned out from the pages of personal opinions on the subject.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You may be correct... Although I do have personal experience with it... My comments above were purely FACTUAL and no opinion was offered.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    My organization did the same analysis before using Slick 50 and I used it with success for many years. When I praised it on another forum, I was attacked by an amsoil salesman and some others as being stupid,naive and generally a degenerate.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Steve, people talk to me like that all of the time
    without my mentioning Slick 50. Seriously, it is a good product.

    Bookitty
  • greg116greg116 Member Posts: 116
    That all owners and enthusiasts of the Dakota 5.9 R/T start a motion to nickname their trucks 'Kotas, in reference to the great '60s musclecar. This is after all, the second-fastest current-production Dodge vehicle there is...
  • s4016s4016 Member Posts: 12
    Just got my new Sport Truck mag. Anyone who wants one of the best looking exhaust systems for their truck should check out MBRP's cuda style. I think I'm gonna order mine soon. Only $700 for a complete stainless system,including the roll pan, brackets, and tips.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Do you have a URN for their web site?
  • bmwjoebmwjoe Member Posts: 136
    Here the URLs


    Dakota Exhaust:

    http://www.dodge-dakota-rt-catback.exhaust-automotive.com/


    Main site:

    www.mbrp.com


    Drive Safe,


    Joe

  • bmwjoebmwjoe Member Posts: 136
    Hi,

    I have a 1998 2WD CC with 5.2l and 5-speed. I have 14k well coddled miles. I love this truck.

    The other morning it was 10°I and the truck did not crank. I turned the key and all I got was a relay clicking. The lights were bright and did not dim when I turned the key.

    The truck ran fine the day before.

    I jumped the battery with a motorcycle battery with 1/2 charge and the truck cranked like crazy and started right up! There is no way this tiny battery started a 5.2l V8. The truck started 2-3 times during the day I/I problem.

    The next day the truck started fine, but it was not as cold. The day after it was also below 10°I and the truck did not start. Again, jumping with the motorcycle battery did the trick.

    I took it to the dealer and they checked the battery and charging system. All OK. They also cleaned the connections and grounds. They were fine too.

    I am sure there is a component, like a relay that malfunctions in the cold and a few more volts makes it start. In order to get the dealer to fix it I will have to leave it at the dealer when it is 10°I out. This can be a challenge.

    Has anyone had a similar problem? Any ideas what the faulty component is? All help is appreciated.

    Drive Safe,

    Joe
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Joe, when the dealer checked the battery, did they use a battery testing meter where variable loads can be achieved? I had a battery problem with my 1995 Dakota, and also a boat battery that operated similar to that which you are experiencing. I checked both batteries with a preloaded battery tester and they read "okay." I borrowed a variable load tester, and when a heavy load was applied the voltage plummeted. Worth a try if it has not yet been done. I just hate a mystery!

    Bookitty
  • billisacrookbillisacrook Member Posts: 5
    Am I the only one thinking the reason 5/30 is recommended is to bring up fleet milage
    averages? This saves DC a bundle.
    Temperatures are pretty moderate in the northwest in the winter, If I lived in a colder climate,
    I could see it. I'm sticking with the 10/30 unless someone can convince me otherwise.
  • billisacrookbillisacrook Member Posts: 5
    Here's a tip:
    If you ever want repair parts for items listed in the MOPAR accessory catalog, forget
    it!
    Bought a bed extender from dealer ($235). Later broke one of the little plastic holddown [non-permissible content removed]
    (my fault). It was only then that I found out dealers cannot get any parts for this stuff.
    They claim DC will not even tell them who makes the stuff in this catalog for them.
    No more dealer accessories for me.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    I would have agreed with you on any older engine design, but the 4.7 was designed around a thin oil. It's clearances are very tight (hence it taking so long to "break in") and thicker oils do flow more slowly when cold. Cold start up is the hardest part on an engine, and any delay, however small, in getting oil flow to metal surfaces will significantly increase wear.
    Have I convinced you? Well, it is your engine and you are allowed to do with it as you wish. If it were me, even in the temperate northwest, I would use 5w-30. If I were in the southwest I might agree with you to go to a heavier oil. just my .02
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    Look at the changes in recommended viscosities over the past two decades. As engines get more sophisticated and tighter toleranced they have decreased the recommended oil weight. In fact, Ford and others are now recommending 5w-20 oil. Don't be surprised if the manufacturers standardize on 0w-20 synthetic within a short period. The public want longer life for their engines. The only difference between 5w and 10w is during startup, so it does not affect mileage that much, but it does affect wear.
  • billisacrookbillisacrook Member Posts: 5
    Well, you got me second guessing myself. So, I called three local dealers about the use of 10/30 wt oil in the 2001 4.7 engine in the Pacific Northwest. Here's what the service manager at each dealership said:

    1st dealer: "No problems with using 10/30, we routinely use it in the 4.7's we service."

    2nd dealer: "We recommend 5/30 because of better protection during cold starts and better mileage. We have no problem with you using 10/30 since 5/30 is only recommended, not required by owners manual."

    3rd dealer: "10/30wt is perfectly o.k. around here, but we suggest you call DC customer assistance for warranty implications."

    DC Customer assistance (@ 1-800-992-1997): "10/30 is O.K. to use if you prefer, however if you do your own service, PLEASE keep receipts and records."

    I'm stick'en with the 10/30 guys, you can't convince that new "tighter clearances" are the reason for 5/30. If that were the case, why would they continue to recommend 30W on the other end of the spectrum. Same tight clearances, right?

    ;
  • rogruthzanrogruthzan Member Posts: 9
    What about "Prolong" or "Dura-Lube" as apposed to "Slick 50"? I'm assuming you wait the same length of time for the break-in period before using...? I have 3k so far. I'm a little worried about the stated 500 miles in the book for the 4.7 as apposed to the normal 5-10K. I used Prolong in another car and it helped milage wise. I still have the car at 170K miles. No engine problems. Yet. Comments will be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 5W30 is obviously the better choice given what tuvtest has stated. Why don't you try to convince those of us that have been INSIDE engines and seen what the difference is.

    Why should I ignore the engine-designers specification and use a LESS stringent SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) oil grade?

    It is easier to manufacture an oil that spans LESS of a viscosity range.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    Why would you want to use an oil that is offering less protection? You can use straight 30w oil if that is your only concern. The cost is not any difference between 5w30 and 10w30. The 5w may add 20-30,000 miles to the life of the engine by reducing startup wear. It is your vehicle and feel free to do as you please.
  • ron35ron35 Member Posts: 134
    billisacrook - The Mopar bed extender as well as the bed extenders for other manufacturers is made by a company called Amp Research. Their website is www.amp-research.com - you can obtain any repair parts needed directly from them. Another source is Nissan Dealerships who are also Amp Research authorized dealers.

    Ron35
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Just when you think you have heard it all. You can't buy Mopar service parts at Dodge, but you can at your local Nissan. :|
  • billisacrookbillisacrook Member Posts: 5
    Ron35- Thanks, called them up and part is ordered. Wonder why
    the local dealers couldn't help? It wasn't like they didn't try,
    they just couldn't find any info on these products.
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    On 2-5-02 my truck was in the dealer lot, after two months of agonizing wait. I ordered it on 12-4-00, and some of you shared in that agony, as you answered my "Dakota 101" questions that you had answered 10 times before. Thanks for your passion about what I know to be a great truck.
    On delivery day I had a quarrel with the dealer before driving away, but the Dakota owner prevailed (stuff I had learned here gave me an advantage), and that was the only low spot in the day. In the end, Bald Hill Dodge/Subaru in RI dealt with me honestly. I now have 500 miles on my truck, and am astounded.

    There are no rattles. The engine is a joy to hear and feel. The driver (me) wants to rev it, and pass anyone on the highway, because I now can. The tranny is as it should be; long throw'ed like a truck, but effortlessly smooth. The ride and handling are very precise. I've yet to wring the bugger's neck, as she ain't broke in, but already my wife wants a louwer exhaust note. Having come up from a tiny Mitsub 2wd (which I spun in the snow the night before I got the Dak) this truck w/ 4X4 is a thrill rather than a discouraging: "I'm gonna get stuck on this hill.." experience. I spent several months reading everything that I could about 4X4 pickups, and I've learned a lot.
    This forum is the most friendly, thoughtful, and best informed. I almost said "mature," and as that is appropriate chronoligically, it ain't me.
    For the first time in many years, I've bought an expensive product that hasn't disappointed.
    Cordially,
    Bikenut
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Doug, it's great to hear that you are so happy with your new Dakota truck. Congratulations, and the best of luck. Thanks also for your kind comments regarding the forum and the people involved. Although this was not my first Dakota (1995 Dakota Club Cab, 5.2 5 speed LSD SLT +++) I too learned a great deal from these folks who are not greedy and/or bashful when it comes down to sharing information. Have you made the ultimate RI endurance run? Driving on East 6 from East Providence, RI to Seekonk, MA without stopping at the Home Depot. I've tried several times, but have not as yet been able to accomplish the feat.

    Bookitty
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    I've added a folder to the Dodge Dakota Owners that contains linked current Dodge Dakota discussions that "live" on other Town Hall boards. If there discussions you would like added to this folder, please let me know.

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    Thanks, Great Idea.
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    My wife's family live in E. Prov, so I too have had many opporunities to drive past the Depot, but haven't managed it yet. If they develope a pill that will keep me out of Home Depot/Sears/ Woodworker's Warehouse I'll be rich!
    Next time you're planning a trip to RI drop me a line at kawinut@cs.com and we can get a meal.
    I'm a novice woodworker, so I've learned to accept my need for power tools and sundry other toys. Since I got the truck, however, I'm afraid that I'll also be stopping at all the speed shops!
    Be Cool,
    Bikenut
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    we have that same disease here in Chicago too!
    My worst problem is my boss gave me a company Home Depot Credit Card. Ohhhh the temptation. We don't have a Woodworker's Warehouse though but maybe that's a good thing.
  • nortx01qcnortx01qc Member Posts: 37
    For those who wonder if the quad will carry lumber. And anyone else --- thought you all would enjoy this.


    http://www.geocities.com/copper6500/homedepot.html

  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Old Chinese proverb:

    "One picture is worth a thousand word." Never more true.

    Bookitty
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    Or, one picture is worth three thousand pounds! There are some realy smart people in this country and they all must live in Florida.
  • stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    And you know in this day and age, the lumber yard that loaded it will certainly be sued !
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    GO BPEEBLES! Love your posts!
  • misterlvmisterlv Member Posts: 1
    I've heard that it's possible to track a new vehicle order online...is this possible, and if so, how do I do it? Thanks...
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    You'll have to call Chrysler to get this shipping info and carrier. If you can get the tracking number, you can usually track it on the carrier's website but cannot do it directly through Chrysler. http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html has more details. Be careful though - if it takes a wrong turn and you know it, it'll drive you nuts!
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    Ok everybody,


    I have been getting a ton of requests on how I had the sunroof installed in my 2001 QC.


    Sorry it took so long, I just got back from a skiing trip and had to wait to build the web page where you guys can see all of this.


    For information and pictures on the installation of my sunroof, go to this link:

    http://www.ayrow.com/sunroof.html


    If you missed it, you can see the leather seat upgrade at this link:

    http://www.ayrow.com/seats.html


    Please let me know what you think.


    Thanks,


    Ayrow

  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    A friend of mine just took delivery of his 2001 SLT Quad, 2WD, Buckets, Towing, etc. When he was doing his acceptance inspection he noted that there is no hood insulation installed and the console not only does not have the light, it has no provision for one. There is no hole for the switch which seems to be an integral part of the light. The insulation situation is easy enough to correct. Has anyone recently taken delivery of a Dakota with bucket seats and found the console without the light? This one was built on Feb 28.
    Still having a ball with my 01 CC, 4.7, auto,loaded. Unpacked my Roll-N-Lock tonight and will install it in the morning. Love this forum!!
  • triple_deke1triple_deke1 Member Posts: 60
    If your talking about the "light" on the inside lid of the console its missing because there is not supposed to be on there!! That is for a small box of tissues.. but in the catalog it does look like a light. the light is in the front of the console near the power outlet.

    TD
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    No, I have the buckets and the console. On my friends console the light is not there. When the light is installed there is a switch that protrudes up and shuts off the light when the lid is closed. This switch is part of the light assembly. There is no hole for the light/switch assembly in his console. I'm not sure but I think that this light is new for 01 and he may have a 00 console. The outlet is installed and there is power to it. Someone with an 00 with buckets can probably provide an answer. I have the tissues in the lid on mine.
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    So, I have seen this discussed but have yet to determine an answer;

    I have a 2001 QC, 4x4, 5spd, TH, Skid, etc...

    Is there a way to put a tow hook(s) on the front of this truck?
    I cannot believe that Dodge eliminated them!!! What stupidity is this??

    Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.