Dodge Dakota - General Topic

evaddave · June 2004

Does anyone know if the Power Overhead Convenience Group is available to be added at the dealer? I found the Dakota I like, but it's missing this one option. I can live without it, but it'd be cool to have.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

spike50 · June 2004

From what I remember from the "old" discussions was that if it wasn't there in the beginning it couldn't be added later. A special wiring harness for a major part of the truck was needed to accept the overhead electronics package. I think it would involve major disassembly and a degree in electronics to added it later.

dataguru · June 2004

Hi Everyone...

I read an article in our weekend local paper advising of a DC recall of approx 29,000 Dakota and Durango vehicles built between 2000-2004 for a problem with windshield wiper motors which has a tendency to rust out. The supplier name was not mentioned.

Has anyone heard of this before and is there a Recall Number on this yet?

THANKS
dataguru

evaddave · June 2004

Thanks, Spike. I was hoping all the wires would already be there since they have to wire the cabin lights anyway. Sounds like it's more than just a simple task.

But that didn't stop me from signing the papers tonight. Tomorrow I pick up my new Patriot Blue/Silver '04 Quad Cab.

-Dave

dustyk · July 2004

I have never purchased a vehicle with more apprehension to later become greatly pleased and satisfied than with my Dakota experience.

I like the looks of the Dakota Club Cab just as it is. This is the first vehicle I've owned in twenty years or better that I haven't put mud flaps on. Mud flaps would spoil the inherent good looks of this truck, in my mind's eye.

However, the absence of mud flaps has taken its toll. From the break line at the lower door downwards the paint along the sides has become chipped, including the leading edges of the wheel flares. These are very small chips, but there are now so many that they are becoming visible. The flares don't bother me that much: they're not metal, won't rust and paint repairs would be very simple.

I recently checked into having the lower portion of the body sprayed with chip guard in the body color (bright silver metallic), but I think I'll be faced with this again a few years down the road.

I don't particularly like step rails, but I recently saw a Dakota Quad with a set that were very dimunitive and did not detract from the Dakota's natural appearance. I think a set of step rails would save the lower body from continual chipping.

The ones I looked at today were way too wide for my taste. I don't like the chrome or plated look at all, so I think fiberglass or metal versions that could be painted are the ones that would interest me.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a step rail that is fairly unobtrusive?

Bests,
Dusty

ron35 · July 2004

Dusty - I have step rails from Draw Tite, which are chrome but they also have black ones available. They are as solid as a rock and can be seen at

http://www.etrailer.com/nerf-bars.htm

Ron

bpeebles · July 2004

Dusty,
I have the factory-offered rails. They are a steel inner-box-frame covered with body-colored plastic. They bolt to existing FRAME holes. (cheep nerf bars will clamp to the body) They have rubber treads (simular to the what rear bumper has)

Mine have been thru 4 Vermont winters (plenty of road-salt) and they look like new. There are no visable parts that can corrode.

I just ran out and snapped this photo. (truck is dirty)
http://hometown.aol.com/peebs4u2/dak_running_bds.jpg

dustyk · July 2004

Bpeebles & Ron,

Hey, thanks for the quick replies and links. They both look great. Great shot of that handsome blue Dakota Bpeebles. Didn't look that dirty in the pics.

I was looking for a step that would perform primary function of a full length guard to keep stones and sand from being blasted against the surface of the rocker panel upward to about the break line on the doors. Since the step rails stick out a ways from the body, it looks like both types that you guys have will allow stuff to hit the painted surface between the rocker panel flange and part way up the lower door panels.

I stopped at Auto Finishers in Rochester this morning and the saleperson advised me of a 3M product which is a clear adhesive stone guard tape. It is the same product used on the Nissan 350 Z and other luxury cars. It would be cheaper than spraying the lowers with chip guard.

My only concern was turning yellow. He said it won't, but then again I was talking to a salesperson.

What do you guys think? Any experience with this adhesive stone guard tape?

Bests,
Dusty

bpeebles · July 2004

That stuff is said to be very durable and I have never head of it yellowing.

Check out this website that sells the stuff. You can get it custom-cut ready to install or by the roll.
http://www.invinca-shield.com/main.htm

dustyk · July 2004

Bpeebles,

Wow! Hey, man, thanks very much. Yeah, that sounds like the stuff.

Best regards,
Dusty

iowabigguy · July 2004

I found this on a Dodge Truck newsgroup. It has parts of a 2004 shop manual online as well as other interesting info for the Dodge Truck Line of Products. http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2004/intro.pdf

Paste this URL into your internet browser and take a look. Rick

dustyk · July 2004

It's all how you drive these 287 (4.7) motors in the Dakota, Ladies and Gentlemen. The last eight (8) tanks are:

18.46 MPG
18.51
18.76
18.88
18.77
18.24
18.95
17.19

Current miles is 26617. No recent maintenance except of an oil filter. Bosch plugs at 10,000, air filter at 20,000 miles. Mobil 0W-30 oil at 23,000. Tires at 35 PSI each. Driving was light to moderate, very little expressway. Estimated average speed 50 MPH. Surprisingly a fair amount of stop & go around town, but all in 45 MPH speed zones. Lazy takeaways at stop signs and lights. Driving style best characterized as "patient."

Not a lot of air conditioning use during this period, about 10%. Last tank was no air conditioning, but had windows down. I actually think this influence MPG drop.

Bests,
Dusty

sunburn · July 2004

Just had a trip from NY to MI and back. All highway with cruise set at 70 MPH. Here's what my 02 QC 4x4, 4.7, auto, 3.92s returned:

Central NY to NE Ohio (I-86/I-90) 16.5
NE Ohio to NE Indiana (I-90) 17.5
NE Indiana to NE Ohio (I-90) 16.3
NE Ohio to Central NY (I-90/I-86) 16.0

The same route was followed both times. The A/C was on most of the time. Suprisingly, the westbound trip had better mileage than the eastbound trip. I would have thought that heading into the prevailing wind would have produced worse MPG. As expected, the mileage was better in the flatlands of northern OH than the hills of central NY.

My highway MPG has been quite variable over the years. The low has been about 15 MPG to a high of 19 MPG. The average is right around 17 MPG.

bpeebles · July 2004

Do not forget that I have touched 21MPG since putting RedLine synthethetic lubes into both differentials, xfer case and the manual tranny.

Previous to that, the best I saw was about 18MPG.

(I do not have the 3.92 differentals. The 3.92 is lower-geared than the standard offering thus gives slightly worse MPG.)

krusty2 · August 2004

I have the expensive 255/65R15 tires on my 2000 QC. Has anyone tried 255/70R15 or 245/70R15? How is the handling, fuel mileage, and power? I'm not even sure if the 245's will work on the stock rim. I am not really interested in the wider 275/60R15 as I don't want to buy fender flares and I wonder about their effectiveness in snow, which we get a lot of in Chicago.

Any comments appreciated.
krusty2

kingquad1 · August 2004

I have a 2000 QuadCab, 4x4, 4.7, auto. I am considering buying a camper. I am curious as to the setup? Torsion bars, anti-sway bars, etc.
The trailer I am considering on buying is 2750 empty and has a gvwr 7000.
any recommendations would be helpful.
Thanks

sunburn · August 2004

First thing, if you don't have the Heavy Duty Service Group option, you will need a transmission fluid cooler. Next, for towing the fluid in the rear diff needs to be changed to a synthetic 75W-140. If you don't have the Trailer Towing Package, you will need a Class III/IV receiver and a 7-pin wiring harness. You can get a wiring harness from your Dodge dealer for about $100. Also, for the trailer brakes you will need a braker controller. I recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy. There are several places on the internet where you can get them for about $100-$125. If your truck still has the original shocks, you might want to upgrade to something better able to handle the additional loads. That takes care of the truck.

Next, you will need a good weight distributing hitch setup with sway control. The Reese Straight-Line (aka Dual Cam) is highly recommended over setups that use the basic friction sway control. This will run about $450-$500 plus installation. If you really want to go all out, there is the Hensley Arrow setup, but that is over $2K.

I don't know what axle ratios you have in your 4x4 QC, but the towing capacity of the 3.55s will max out around 4800 lbs and the 3.92s will max out around 5800 lbs. So, towing your trailer at it's GVWR may not be a pleasant experience. Remember, these weights are for a single 150 driver and a QC with no options or cargo. To account for all passengers and your camping stuff, you could probably reduce these tow limits by 1500-1800 lbs. Also, it is quite easy to exceed the GVWR of your QC. Mine is identical to yours and it weighs about 5000 lbs, with no driver and a full tank of gas. The owner's manual lists the weight as much less. That only leaves about 1000 lbs for passengers, cargo, and the hitch weight of the trailer. It's a common problem on 1/2 class trucks.

ron35 · August 2004

First ride review of the 2005 Dakota is at

http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/2005/dodge/dakota/first_drive/pag- e1.html

jusreedin · September 2004

I have the same tires. Don't want to spend that much. What did you decide to do? Have you had much success and do you like the new tires?

Let me know how you made out.

Thanks,
Mark

kingquad1 · September 2004

THANKS FOR THE REPLY AND AM SORRY FOR MY SLOW RESPONSE BACK.
I BOUGHT THE TRAILER( IT IS BETTER THEN I EXPECTED), HAD A RECEIVER ADDED, BOUGHT A WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH, ETC. I ALREADY HAD THE EDELBROCK SHOCKS.
MY NEW QUESTION IS: DID YOU CHANGE YOUR THERMOSTAT?

sunburn · September 2004

kingquad1 - no I haven't changed the thermostat. My temp gauge only moves off normal when pulling up long, steep grades - usually in 2nd gear.

hasel · September 2004

I joust got a 2004 Dakota Service Manual on a CD on EBay its supposed to be a complete manual but it is not, so be careful if you go this route to save money

res1216 · October 2004

I have a 2004 Dakota 4.7 liter V8 that makes a strange noise when I accelerate - sounds like there is marbles in the engine. This a brand new truck with only 500 miles.
Anybody have any engine problems / noise?

Thanks.

dustyk · October 2004

Problems with the 287 (4.7) motor are very few and rare. Your symptom description sounds like detonation from over-advanced ignition timing. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that symptom associated with the 4.7 before.

My first suspect is you have a faulty ignition computer (PCM as Chrysler calls it).

My advice is to take it back to the dealer.

Best regards,
Dusty

draymond2 · October 2004

I know someone that has a 2000 Dakota CC 4X2 with 4.7 auto. with 19K miles. Haven't seen it yet, seller claims in mint condition. owned by late mother...

Any owners out there can give my some advice, info about their trucks?? good and the bad.

bpeebles · October 2004

I orderd my 2000 w/4.7 from the factory in November of 1999 and now has over 60K miles. I plan on keeping it another 8-10 years.

The trouble spots to look for are.

*)Front brakes are weak. Use the best rotors/pads you can find.

*)Shock absorbers are weak. I installed Edelbrock IAS and am very satisfied with improved ride/handling.

*)Upper ball joints are weak. Check them regularly BEFORE they break. (I installed MOOG brand with grease nipples)

Strong points:
*)4.7L engine is bullitproof. It should last a VERY long time.

*)Original Goodyear Wrangler tires have lasted over 60K miles and are STILL servicable. (they have poor traction though)

dustyk · October 2004

The Dakota has a reputation for solid engines and drivelines. They are among the most rust resistant of any truck with stiff frames and strong bodies and are the longest lasting of the small or mid-size pick-ups according to R.L. Polk.

Like most US-made production vehicles from the big three, the Dakota has seen it's ups-and-downs with respect to assembly or component quality, probably more of the latter. Of the vintage you're considering there have been complaints about brake rotor quality and some suspension components (ball joints, shocks, etc.). Usually aftermarket replacement resolve these issues, of course. There have been a few comments in here about short differential life, but this problem usually shows up quite soon and I'd bet that these types of failures are the result of poor initial assembly or a component machining problem.

Since 1999, the newer the better. My 2003 was very well asembled and the only failed component at twenty-three months and 31,000 miles was a gas cap.

Best regards,
Dusty

draymond2 · October 2004

Thanks for the info. BTW what type of gas mileage should I expect with the 4.7?

dustyk · October 2004

The 4.7 has been heavily criticized by some for being thirsty. However, I will tell you that this engine will make it's EPA numbers if driven correctly.

My average for the last ten tanks of fuel has been 17.7. The last twenty tank average is 18.09. My daily commute is 5.3 miles one way. Most of my driving is around town or country roads where speeds are usually 50 MPH or less. I get some expressway driving, approximately 25-30% per tank. My high was 21.93 on Interstate 87 (old 490) carrying approximately 1200 lbs. of ATV and gear, using cruise control and never faster than 65 MPH. My driving is sedate most of the time.

If you get into a rush the fuel mileage drops precipitously. High speeds and start-and-stop driving will take its toll quicker on the 4.7 than the 3.9 or 3.7 V6s. Winter time driving drops my fuel mileage to the mid-fifteens, even lower in short trip driving. The lowest I ever got was 13.12 in the dead of winter with the ATV on the back the entire tank.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · October 2004

My 02 QC, 4x4, 4.7, auto, 3.92 LSD turned over 50K miles today. Still running good. The only out of warranty expense has been $50 to replace the rear pinion seal. However, the rear transfer case seal and left front diff seal are both showing some signs of leakage.

My mileage continues to improve. This summer my average "everyday" driving mileage climbed from 14.3 MPG (last summer) to 14.7 MPG. My highway mileage continues to be in the 16-17 MPG range.

Let's hope the next 50K miles are as good.

izzo · October 2004

My 99 3.9L V6 is doing strange things with the temperature gauge. The gauge will go from normal up to the red zone and then back down to normal, this will all happen in a span of about 30 seconds. It ususally happens after I've been driving stop the car and then resume driving shortly after stopping. The engine can't actually be getting that hot and then cooling down that rapidly can it? Any ideas what might be wrong? Thanks.

dustyk · October 2004

izzo,

My first suspect is the engine temperature sending unit or a bad connection.

Are all the gauges working okay?

Regards,
Dusty

dodgetrukn · October 2004

I had the v6 in an older dakota also. I had that same problem watching the temp gauge go up pretty high while waiting at lights or stop signs. My buddy who bought the 'replacement until I get a new one' truck seen that and put in a new thermostat and that problem was solved. Regards,Ger

mopar67 · October 2004

to the nth degree! If you drive it right, it will hit EPA figures posted in plain view on the window sticker. Best I got was 19 on mostly rolling terrain, 70 MPH with the AC on. Running that trip on Philips 66 gas. 87 octane.

Rig had the 45RFE tranny. 3.92 rear axle.

duwop1 · October 2004

Hello out there,I am considering buying a 2003 Dakota club cab with 33miles,yes 33 miles,don't ask.This will be first truck since 1987 Elcameno.My question,is this a good truck? 3.9V6 Auto,and a bunch of other stuff.Just need to know if 03 is ok or should I go with 04.I can buy this sleeper for about $18,000.Thanks for any input.duwop1

qbrozen · October 2004

well, you're missing alot of details, so I'm not sure if its a good price, but just so you know, Dodge is offering about $4K or $4500 rebates on the '04 Dakotas. Take that from the invoice price you could probably negotiate and you are talking cheap cheap cheap.

duwop1 · October 2004

Thank you for your reply back to me whoever you are.I realize that I did not include a lot of information(the 2003 club cab 4x4 was loaded)I was just asking if a 2003 for 18k with 33miles was comparable "truck wise" to a 2004 for 21k after rebates.With 33miles we are talking new,but the truck has to be sold as used.It's complicated.Let's put it this way is a 2003 a dog?I know nothing about dodge dakota's.I do own two dodge car's but no trucks.Thanks again.

dustyk · October 2004

I have a 2003 Club Cab with 31,000 miles at two-years old that so far has been the best new vehicle I've ever owned, including cars from Nissan and Toyota. Are all as good as mine? No. But the 2003 Dakota received at least one award for "best in quality."

From '99 up, the newer the Dakota is the better it is.

Good luck.

Best regards,
Dusty

duwop1 · October 2004

Thanks for the reply.I just discovered this forum thing yesterday while looking for info on the Dakota.You guy's are nuts,I'm trying to figure out if I should buy an 03 or 04 and you guy's are breaking down oil,rear end's front end's bumpers,about the only thing I haven't seen is somebody wanting to modify the glove box.Maybe it's in one of the earlier discussions.I am really, really, impressed.I would like to go over my delema one more time if anyone want's to reply.Until then I am going outside and install a turbo-charger in the glove box of my 01 Stratus R/T, in the dark, with one hand tied behind my back.So there

dustyk · October 2004

>>>Let's put it this way is a 2003 a dog?<<<

No.

duwop1 · October 2004

Two hours ago I traded the R/T without the turbo charged glove box for an 04 Dakota club plus, 4.7 5 speed, equipt with lots of stuff.I was putty in their hands.Every time I said no they kept throwing more $$$$ at me.I never stood a chance.Now I need to go out and have a couple glasses of wine and reflect on what I've done.Remember you answered my call for help,now you own me.I'm going to need a lot of answers to questions that I don't even have yet.My summer toy is a White Mustang Cobra SVT .By the way i'm Sixty one going on Twelve,hey I don't know many Saturday's I have left!!! One last thought wouldn't dual exhausts coming straight out look cool.Goodby,I won't bother you folks anymore,I need to go to auto zone and exchange this turbo charger.Rock on

kalr · October 2004

How do you remove the metal sleeve that the plug wire goes into so you can change the plug. Can't get a plug socket into the sleeve hole ??

ron35 · October 2004

duwop - You done good. The 3.9 engine has been phased out and replaced by a 3.7, which is an off shoot of the 4.7 with two cylinders loped off. The 4.7 and 3.7 represent new technology and better gas mileage in addition to more power. I have a 2K Club Cab 4.7 5 speed 4x4 with 57K miles and absolutely no problems. I have compared my mileage with friends who have the 3.9 and I am getting gas mileage which is a little better than theirs. The 4.7 and 5 speed are an excellent combo.

Ron

duwop1 · October 2004

Ron,Thank you for the reply and the atta-boy.I am picking up my new pal this afternoon.The only experience I have had with trucks are my dearly beloved "five" El-cameno's.I always liked trucks that didn't look like trucks,but I loved to carry around "stuff".Anyway,I am really looking forward to this new experience.For the last 3 day's I have become addicted to these forums and discussion groups.Except for exotic car types you truck guy's are a diverse group of very very strange Dude's,but a good kind of strange.I hope I can be excepted into the fold.In 25 words or less,is there anything I should do at pickup or in the first week or so.Thank you again, About to be the newest truck guy.Duwop

dustyk · October 2004

You can't remove the metal heat shield unless the plug is out.

You need to acquire a thin-walled spark plug socket. These are available at auto parts stores.

Good luck,
Dusty

ron35 · October 2004

duwop - I don't believe ther is anything you need to do right away. Some things I have done, as well as several others on this forum, you should consider down the line are: replacing your air filter with a K&N filter, they last a life time and help the engine breathe better; install front wheel dust covers so you don't have to waste time cleaning the wheels every few days; switch over to Mobil 1 or another synthetic after the first oil change; install Redline or another synthetic in the front and rear differentials, the transfer case and the manual transmission.

Ron

duwop1 · October 2004

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.52 miles and I already love it.I will certainly consider your sugestions.Once again thanks for taking the time.I did already order a ear fiberglass bed cover and a bug deflector thingy,Did not buy them from Dodge,got a good Quality for less $$.One more thing I am really thinking about having cat. back dual exhaust installed,saw a Ford 150 with them coming straight out the back,really looked nice.Except for the cost any thoughts?Thank you again.

bpeebles · October 2004

I agree with most of what ron35 has said but must caution you about "K&N" air filters.

Most folks that know about this stuff will tell you that "K&N" air filters filter WORSE than the stock air filter. (read... 'less engine protection') The weak argument that they "flow better" actually is the result of the worse filtering.

There is no reason on earth for an everyday vehicle to have an air filter that "flows better". The major restriction in the intake plenum is the throttleplate which spends VERY little time at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) Even if you were an aggressive driver and like to hold the throttle pedal on the floorbaord, a better-flowing air-filter would make less than a 1HP difference at the high RPM levels.

Save yourself the cost of a "K&N" air filter and change your paper filter every 30K miles. Even after 120K miles, you would still come out with more $$ in your pocket that can be spent on better goodies for your Dak.

I welcome anyone that wishes to discuss the physics of the internal combustion engine in relation to the intake airflow characteristics to dispute the above facts. (I would even discuss the addition of a turbocharger to the intake and its relation to the airflow)

bpeebles · October 2004

There is no such thing as a "cat back dual exhaust". All the exhaust gasses still go thru a SINGLE catalytic converter. A "dual exhaust" is 4 cylinders feeding each leg of the exhaust system. (3 cylinders on V6)

Splitting the exhaust flow into 2 pipes after the cat actually is detrimental to performance in several ways. Not the least of which is the extra weight of the 2 pipes. On the 4.7L engine, it has been shown in dyno-testing that a single 2.5" may be the best. (Any larger looses the all-important "velocity" that is desired in a performance exhaust)

You need to ask yourself what you are looking for in a cat-back system. If you can please put the following into your personal order of preference, we may be able to guide you to a cat-bak system that best meets your needs.

*)Sound
*)longevity
*)looks
*)performance

ron35 · October 2004

duwop - One note of caution on the cat back dual exhast. All that I have investigated for the 4x4 require that the spare tire be removed from its mounting under the truck. Some of the manufacturers try to hide this with an asterisked footnote in minature print so that most will not notice it. On the K&N air filter I would urge you to do your own research. I have had mine installed for over 50K miles and when I have cleaned the throtle body it was much cleaner than it was with the stock air filter.

Ron

Dodge Dakota - General Topic

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