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Dodge Dakota - General Topic
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Comments
I've seen some pictures of the 06 Mitsubishi Raider (the Mitsu version of the Dakota) and it might be better looking than the Dakota, at least from the outside. Of course, I'll reserve final judgement until I can see one in person.
So do I. We must be old, Sunburn!
For some reason the edgy and flat look has become the styling trend. Extremes are the Honda Element and the Scion. I find both too ugly to even consider one. And I'm not normally that fusy.
Since the new Ford F-150 has been introduced, the RAM and GMC seem far more appealing to me.
Bests,
Dusty
One wag described the bumper treatment as a "Jay Leno look." I'm not crazy about that particular feature myself, but feel okay about the overall design. If better rebates come out I might like it even more.
A couple of Ford people were talking yesterday about the lack of '05 F150 sightings. I, too, haven't seen that many on the road. Maybe, like the F150, there are so many previous generation Daks on the road that the '05s aren't going to stick out (...not a play on words...) for a while.
Bests,
Dusty
built in to the alternator?
2000 QC, 4.7, automatic and towing package
thank you,
regards,
KingQuad
To quote the book: "Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)"
In the description of the operation, it says:
"A circuit in the PCM cycles the ground side of the generator field up to 100 times per second but has the capability to ground the field control wire 100% of the time (full field) to acheive target voltage"
There is also a complete chapter in troubleshooting the charging system.
According to the manual, the regulation is within 0.5 volts of target setpoint. (Target setpoint is not fixed)
Do not forget that the EVR is located in the PCM so that the voltage setpoint can be dynamically adjusted based on electronic loading, battery temperture and other variables. (Did you know that there is a battery temperture sensor underneath the battery?)
Since I am trained in electronics, I would have no troubles in hooking up an oscilliscope and isolating any problem. I also have a voltage monitor which plugs into the ciggerette lighter so I can monitor the voltage too.
I am curious, why are you asking?
1. shut off both batteries, charge both batteries and use each 1 independently. According to Guest, if the alternator has a built in regulator, do NOT use the AFD (alternator field disconnect). So that is where the question came about.So I guess I should buy the switch without AFD?
Thank you
All I can say is BE CAREFUL. Do not forget that the regulated voltage is partially based on the input from the battery temp. sensor. If this second battery DOES NOT have the temp sensor, I can forsee conditions wheras the alternator output may overcharge the battery without the temp. sensor. (the battery temp. rises when it cannot accept any more charging.)
Ron
trailer circuitry. Pretty much the same setup as dual batteries in a boat, just that I won't be starting the truck with these.
Best regards,
Dusty
The front-end still takes my breath away...negatively, that is, and a lack of full instrumentation doesn't help. But the few things I've heard indicate that the new Dakota is a worthy competitor.
Bests,
Dusty
The last generation Dakota still better. I'll be keeping my '03 Dak.
Happy Easter to all.
Bests regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
Those sales-n-marketing folks are pretty creative.
BTW... Did you know that the upcoming "HYBRED" pickup from GM DOES NOT EVEN HAVE HYBRED DRIVETRAIN? (The only thing "hybred" about it is when you use the brakes, it re-charges the battery.)... what a farce!
Ron35
The Bosch ads seem to imply that they are a better plug than what came out of my 4.7. Assuming they are they should go at least as long as the factory plugs, which translates to something more than 30K. I know a couple of people that went 50-60K on the factory Champions, so I don't know.
I've been please with the Platinum+4s so far but they are expensive.
I'd say they'll work fine in the 4.7. Is there something better or just as good at less the price? I don't know.
Bests,
Dusty
Should I go with the new 3.7 V6 or back with the 4.7 V8. Which would give the best MPG? I do not need the towing so I imagine I should leave that off to help.
What about the gears> which would be best for MPG.
I do not expect 20mpg, but 18 would be acceptable. 13-14 is not. I drive about 20k miles per year.
I'm a lightfooted driver and I usually drive for gas mileage. I have a better average than many V6 Dakotas. I will tell you this, aggressive or impatient driving will kill fuel consumption. This is more acute, I think, with the 4.7. I've had "good tanks" go down hill with just a couple of P-40-style throttle bursts.
Because of the hilly terrain you're encountering it's possible that a 3.7 in a Dakota Quad would not benefit fuel consumption. Especially in a 4x4. But in all honesty I think it's too problematic to predict fuel consumption.
Good luck with your decision.
Bests,
Dusty
Bookitty.
The Allison airplane engines That I am aware of are V12. They are the loudest engines you have ever heard. Two allison V12s mounted on a tractor-puller is MUCH louder than five V8 Hemis on a tractor.
Tractor pullers run a MINIMUM of 2,500 horsepower. (These WWII Allison engines have been modified and are fuel-injected and supercharged!!)
Here is a photo of twin Allison airplane engines on one tractor;
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=00H9002T000035&start=0&album- - - - - - - - =0&adjust=-1
Here is a photo of THREE Allisons on one tractor;
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/prsm.dll?eventorder?photo=00H9002P000053&start=0&album- - - - - - - =0&adjust=-1
By the way, have you seen a movie called "Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow?" They could have used a P-51, P-38, or even a Spitfire, but they chose the Warhawk. It's quite a sight to see a P-40 buzz across an air field at better than 200 MPH. I'm fortunate to have seen this a number of times.
Bests,
Dusty
Am I correct in assuming that there is no 2WD option in this truck? The swith panel offers only the AWD and two other 4WD options.
I have heard in previous postings that the AWD is not really the type of AWD that one would find in a Suburu. Is this correct? Essentially, I am driving the truck in the farthermost left control switch position, which is AWD. What are the disadvantages of not having any 2WD option in terms of performance and vehicle longevity?
This is the first time that I have owned a truck that did not have the simple 2WD/4X4 switch option. It seems to be a great driving and performing truck at this juncture, but I have only possessed it for less than a week.
Does anybody know about these things, or have some personal experience with the AWD and two 4WD options that came with this truck? I would like to receive some input from somebody who has this experience. Thanks.
Bookitty
There are 2 things that you mention that WERE NOT AVAILABLE in 1994
1) The 4.7L v8. (not available in Dak until 2000)
2) Pushbutton xfer case. (Not available in Dak until 2001)
We need to know what you have before we can be expected to discuss it intellegently.
In my haste typing the message Sunday, I misstated the year of my truck. It is NOT a 1994, but a 2004 with a 4.7 V-8 engine. I do not believe that 2WD option is available on this truck. The switch indicator has three (3) positions: (L) AWD, (C) H4WD, and (R) L4WD. The salesperson at the dealership told me that it is possible to shift into the center position of H4WD while going 30 mph or less. However, the truck must be stopped prior to selecting the (R) L4WD position.
In other words, this truck apparently does not have 2WD as an option. Does anybody have an experience with this type of system? Does the truck drive in AWD constantly except when the switch is shifted to the other 4WD options? When should the other 4WD options be engaged?
Basically, we liked the overall appearance and maneuverability of this truck more than another 4.7 V-8 truck that I think had the 2WD option. What are the good and bad points with this type of operating system. I have heard that gas mileage is not good with the AWD operating system constantly engaged, nor is it optimum with the other 4WD options engaged.
I read one member's posting describing some differences between the AWD on the truck and the so-called normal AWD of vehicles (Subaru), which supposedly have a different differential. What is the track record with my type of truck, and how many miles can I expect in AWD? Sorry for posting the incorrect year; indeed, that would make it a collectible relic for the museum. Any feedback concerning these or other issues with this specific model of truck will be greatly appreciated.
Seems as if you have been recommended by a few of the members for expertise with the Dakota truck systems. My posting today will reveal that my truck is actually a 2004 model SLT with a 4.7 V-8 engine.
My control panel inside the truck does not offer a 2WD option, but AWD and 2 4WDs. There appear to be differences, according to some postings I have perused, between the AWD of lets say a Subaru and the truck. What is your opinion of the AWD system on my truck?
One of the 4WDs can be switched on at 30 MPH or less, but the other has to be switched on when the truck is completely stopped. This is the first time that I have owned a truck with these specific options, and there are several questions:
1) How is gas mileage with the AWD versus the 4WD options? It probably is not as good as the truck with the 2WD option.
2) Is the AWD system in this model truck a good one, or are there shortcomings?
3) What is the longevity of this specific model if maintained and used properly?
We have driven approximately 300 miles since it was purchased a week ago. It seems to handle quite well and has more than sufficient horsepower. We both really enjoy the truck so far, but because of the short time of ownership, are not familiar with the nuances.
Please provide any other information that you think might be helpful as far as proper maintenance and care. I plan to keep the truck for some years at this point. My wife and I did not want a very large truck, nor did we want something as small as the Ford Ranger. Therefore, when we observed this truck at the dealership and test drove it, it seemed to be precisely what we needed in terms of size and power.
I was thrilled when I discovered the Dodge Dakota Owners forum online, since I lack knowledge as to the truck capabilities, etc.
1) How is gas mileage with the AWD versus the 4WD options? It probably is not as good as the truck with the 2WD option. You are correct. You really have "full time four wheel drive" which is soaks more power from the engine than Rear wheel drive would.
2) Is the AWD system in this model truck a good one, or are there shortcomings? I personally dont care for that type of system. (I used to own one) It is simply an "open differential" in the xfer case. If any one wheel does not have tracion-- you are not going anywhere. (SURPRISE -- it is really ONE WHEEL DRIVE)
3) What is the longevity of this specific model if maintained and used properly? You will find that "full time four wheel drive" tends to wear the tires and drivetrain components more than rear wheel drive would.
Make no mistake the Dakota "full time four wheel drive" is not like the Suberu system which truly puts the power the wheels with the most traction. Instead, your Dak will always put the power to the wheel with the LEAST traction. (That is exactly what an open differential does)
As for longevety, keep an eye on the front brakes. Also my shock-absorbers were junk after about 2 years. (leaking fluid) I got over 60Kmiles on the original tires. (you wont be so lucky 8-( with that "full time four wheel drive" system)
On the plus side, The 4.7L engine has proven itself to be VERY reliable. (and somwhat effiicent -- I have seen 20MPG on the highway.) The body also tends to rust much less than other trucks.
Since you are still braking in the engine -- do not forget to follow the recommendation to use BURSTS OF FULL THROTTLE ACCELLERATION followed by decelleration. This will help seal the piston rings and reduce oil-consumption as the engine ages. You will find that the MPG may increase for up to 20K miles -- this indicates that the engine is still breaking in and the pistons rings are sealing up.
I hope this helps answer your questions.
Bpeebles also mentions a little realized apparent fact...that Dakotas of any year seem to be stubborn resistors to rust. I see seven and eight year-old S10s all the time with rust perforation. I don't even see rust on a eight year-old Dakota. Dakotas are the longest lasting mid-size truck on the road, in part to the fact that they stay rust free longer than their competition. Probably another reason why Dakota resale values are higher, at least in around here.
Best regards,
Dusty
As far as tire wear is concerned, I have a co-worker with the AWD option on his 02 QC Dakota. So far, he has gotten over 80K miles out of his original Wrangler RT/Ss. Granted, he does a lot of long distance highway driving, but I seriously doubt that the tires on an AWD Dakota will wear significantly faster than the 4WD or 2WD variety.
I am relieved to hear that the body of the Dakota truck is resistant to rusting, especially here in Maine where winter salt is used on the roadways. It is not always feasible to remove the salt residue immediately, and therefore, the residue may remain on the truck for a few days prior to rinsing off. We have now owned the truck for three weeks and its been great driving so far. Since we own two other vehicles, we are not driving the truck full-time of course.
We intend to keep the truck for a period of five plus years, or until it starts to have major problems beyond normal servicing and maintenance. Glad to see that somebody posted a note regarding the best type of sparkplugs to use in the truck.
On May 3rd, we have an appointment to install Rhino lining in the truck bed. Are there any suggestions about the benefits of Rhino lining versus the traditional bed lining? Also, are there any benefits to having a cover or shell installed, or does that primarily depend upon the normal purpose for which the truck is used? We do want to place some type of lining in the bed of the truck, and think that the Rhino dealer also sells regular beds.
The shells to cover the bed of the truck probably vary in design. I have observed some covers that simply cover the truck bed and are exactly the same height as the rim of the bed. There are undoubtedly some disadvantages in having a shell/cover installed as well as some advantages. We would like to hear from other owners about their experiences with covers and shells. One apparent advantage, of course, is the capacity to carry things in the truck bed during snowy or otherwise inclement weather.
The 3.7 and 4.7 engines have a reputation for more than average miles to complete break-in. I think mine was done around 17K or so. Since it's never used a drop of oil I can't tell for sure, but after that mileage fuel consumption stabilized.
Good luck with the new Dak.
Best regards,
Dusty
However, I have some comments pertaining to our inqueries about a cap. I have a cap on my Dak, It was orderd/installed within 500 miles of taking delivery of my custom factory-orderd Dakota.
As with the rest of my truck purchase, I did a lot of research before settling on a cap. (I plan to keep my Dakota well over 12 years- 150,000 miles)
I selected a cap that is the same hight as the cab. It has ONE knob to open/close it. It is held on with aluminum clamps so it can be easilly removed if I need to take it off for awhile. I orderd my Dak and the cap with sliding windows so there is access from the cab to the cap.
I opted for a rubber bedmat that can be removed and hosed off when it gets cruddy. (spray-on bedliners tend to let the cargo slide around and are VERY hard on the knees when loading/unloading cargo)
A futon matress fits in the bed of my Dak perfectly. My wife and I have camped inside the cap.
In the winter, (I am in Vermont) It is very nice to not have to shovel snow out the back of the truck to use it. The cap also helps a canoe strap to my Dakota securely.
The ONLY drawback I have ever encounterd is the need to crawl in on my knees to load cargo. I have never had a time where the height of the cap kept me from hauling cargo. This includes beds, dressers, and other various furniture. I also have a cargo-bar (rubber feet on the ends of a bar that keeps cargo from sliding forward during a hard stop) That is used to keep groceries near the tailgate.
The cap has made my Dakota an all-weather hauler. It has hauled a bedroom set over 700 miles thru all kinds of weather. It is LOCKABLE for security. A cap gives better MPG than a pickup without one.
My best mixed driving thusfar in the '05 has been 19.5 mpg.
Was struck with many the same decisions as you. Have had same height tops on other trucks with the most pleasing results. Have had every type of bedliner.
Except one which I did not know of until I started looking for the '05. After researching, eavesdropping on several forums, etc., I opted for the Bedrug which is heavy marine carpet bonded to closed cell foam (impervious to most everything except fire). I am VERY pleased with it. It is made for the model and can be taken out when/if necessary. Less 'slide around' than other liners I have had, and has a padding effect on cargo AND humans.
I have thrown firewood, building materials, parts, etc. into it. A vaccum and/or spray wash cleans it right up. Cost me about $339 delivered from realtruck.com.
I looked at every contingent of bed cover. Thought about some type of tonneau cover (trying mostly to save a buck), but finally 'came to my senses' and got what I really wanted to to begin with. I have an ARE Mpulse cab high (one of the very first ones molded for the '05), with the option of the fold down "picture window" in the front. This allows the cleaning of both the rear truck and front camper window.
I've had the sliding windows in truck and camper, but since we can't have people in the campers (while rolling) any more, I believe them to be redundant...and they were always hard to keep sealed between cab/camper.
I also had the Sport Rack installed on the camper top, which I am also very pleased with (the sliding racks each have key locks to keep them from 'disappearing'. That whole package installed ran about $1400.
The Bedrug continues from the bed to the tailgate, so this acts as a tailgate seal, as well as the way it fits up against the sides of the tailgate.
The A.R.E. top fits superbly both asthetically and functionally.
You can see my truck on the A.R.E. website (www.4are.com) in customer's trucks, #2552.
I also installed BAK pro caps on the bedrails, tailgate and front of bed before I had the top installed. The guys who installed the top wanted to know what type of bedrail caps they were because they fit so well and were the most compatible with tops that they had seen. (did a lot of research on them, too)
I don't spend money lightly, and these were all major decisions for me.
Yep, including replacing our '01 dak with an '05. It is a very different vehicle and having spent quite a bit of time underneath it (just being there and checking things out), I am even more convinced it has had notably significant research.
One of the 'little' things which is (to me) a telltale note on that, is the fact that the oil filter is at the front of the engine, and has a molded oil 'spout' under it so that when you take off the old filter (which can be done so easily), it channels the drips away from everything else.
Though I have installed a receiver hitch, the way the ball hole in the rear bumper is set up, it disperses into the frame, and not on the bumper.
I reckon that's probably enough for the moment.
http://members.aol.com/bsbets/truck/intake1.jpg
I’m looking for a speed censer The one that goes in the back axel
for a 1999 dodge ram 350 5.9 diesel but I live in the uk ? or do you no of any wear I could get one from mail order?
Thanks for your time
Dave,
preey, "Dodge Ram Owners: Problems & Solutions" #1783, 14 Jun 2005 6:02 pm
Good Lock, Dick
-Electrical
-Powertrain Control
-Vehicle Speed Sensor
I'm not sure that it is the part you are looking for but you can "click" on the "?" under the price and send them an E-mail.
Good luck, Dick
If I recall correctly, the original Wrangler RT/Ss have several continous rubber strips around their circumfrence. The Kumho Venture ATs also have continous rubber around them.
Before blaming the tires, make SURE that you have the PSI up at the max allowable. (see sidewall on tires) That is the very best way to get the most MPG out of your tires. Of course, one must sacrifice "ride quality" for MPG... there is nothing free in this world.
My research for tires to put on my Dakota led me to the only obvious choice.
Nokian Vattiva They are perhaps the very pest choice for a road/snow tire for the Dakota. They are FAARR better than the Wrangler R/Ts. They are NOT available at 'tirerack.com" either.
When I am looking for MPG -- I take my wifes family car... it gets over 50 MPG all day long on the highway. It is SOOOO NICE to get over 650 miles per tank of fuel. It is crazy that most people are not driving turbocharged diesel engines.... Europe has already switched over to this superiour power source.