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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
First off the folder I had in my filing cabinet started off as one folder, then grew to 2 folders over 4 inches thick full of repairs!!! all under Warranty!!!
I liked the truck due to its looks, and grunt, and it was discounted 2k off MSRP/Invoice. So I was sold!
I knew it was bad from the start, I pulled away from the dealer, and the cig. lighter was missing? 6 miles on her, Made a U-turn back into parking lot, got cig lighter, guess what It didn't work!!! HE HE, 1st repair, 8 miles on her! LOL I still have the Paper work, they fixed it right away, 2 hours later!!! seems wiring wasn't hooked up at factory? Oh well here is a summary of some of the repairs!
-radio comes on and off fixed 3 times, never could figure it out, replaced twice!
-3 cat. convertors, every 10k they rotted out, from the inside out, sounded like your dragging a bag of cans! 3cat convertors!!! MEANS 4 on truck!
-thermostat leak, coolant pis sin out houseing? pin hole in casting?
-idle sensor, kept stalling, this happened on a bridge, -5F out, winds at 50MPH!!! Thankfully I was on the downslope! I coased for a mile and she started up again!!!
-running lights did not work!, found this one out by a State trooper at 3 am in the morning!! Thank god I was coming home from work! CAuse was a short in licence plate bulb wiring. completly fried!
-front seal leak
-rear seal leak
-transmission leak, top of shifter, was leaking 90 W out of top? dripping on exhaust, causing smoke to come into cab at lightstop. Found that the bolts were never tight on shifter plate from factory?
-paint was peeling off front fender
-corrosion was starting in the corners of the bed! Was never touched by me or anythin in bed! They would not fix this, so I rhino lined it!
-Warped rootters at 4 K
-Leak in the Inside of radiator? That was a weird one, at first they thought a stone hit it, then I showed them it was peeing out the back side!!! LOL
- The factory tires lasted 10K, they were horrible! Goodyear wranglers!
-OK i traded this thing in, I could not sell this it anyone personnally! The radio never worked! It would fade in and outm they tried everything, antenna, 2 radios, wiring, they could not figure it out!
- To top it off a Pizza Delivery guy smashed in the front end on a side street, his car was totalled, it was a Grand AM GT brand new, I had only $4900 in damage!!!
-A basic truck, they gave $5500 for a trade in, Not bad I only Paid 12500 for it in 99,
- So people I took car of this vehicle like you wouldn't believe, changed oil every 2500 miles, had all the paperwork to proveit, changed all fluids and filters, and this is how Dodge builds trucks
Good Luck, I hope you have better luck than me!
PS it never burned oil!!!, it only leaked on my new driveway!!!, had to park on the grass!!
- 5 sets of rotors, even went to Bendix rotors to try to fix the poor design and it did not help.
- Manual trans had to be pulled and completely resealed at around 20k miles, it still leaked and left a mess in the garage and I was without the truck for a week.
-Upper heat/AC vents stopped working, $13 plastic part located inside the heater box took 6 hr of labor to fix.
-At 58k miles power steering pump went, $700 bill.
- At 60k miles upper ball joints went, estimated $500 to fix but the upper ball joints are (or at least were last month) on a national back order (hints at how many Dakotas are in need of this part. A good ploy by Dodge, make more money on cheap original equipment).
- Both front seats squeak very loudly.
- Rear fender flares separated from body within first 8 mo of ownership.
My solution: I got rid of it before it drained me. I am very disappointed with the truck and I may never purchase another Dodge in my lifetime. If I were a Dodge engineer, or worked for Dodge, I would be extremely ashamed at the poor quality of the product. The word cheap comes to mind and further erodes my faith in US made vehicles. Someone stated that "if you want to get rid of those kind repair bills, buy a forgien vehicle."
So my new Toyota truck sits next to the Audi in the garage.
Audi's aren't known for their reliability either but some people have no problems with them. We have 3 other cars so if there is a problem it won't be a big loss while it's getting fixed.
My original fluid smells burnt after 50k miles and I need to replace the fulid ASAP in an effort to avert disaster.
QUESTION: What was the failure-mode of your pump?
Noise?
No steering?
Leaking?
other?
This weekend, my wife was helping me back into a tight spot and noted that my reverse lights are not working. I am suspecting the switch on the tranny is the problem.
BTW.. I have the manual tranny.
No burnt smell was detected before the failure.
The bigger problem, in my opinion, is the apparently poor level of service support you folks got. A dealer makes the all the difference in the owning experience.
Regards,
Dusty
If Chrysler has used better parts, then the whole issue of dealer service would be moot because the customer would not have to return there to have things made right.
Beleive it or not, there ARE dealerships like this around.
Maybe the thing got dropped off a train? Nah
PS while my truck was serviced I totalled one of there loaner cars!!! LOL, I got sued, long story.
The insides (gears, housing, shafts) appeared to be covered with a "soot" above and below the normal oil level that I could wipe off if I wanted. Other than that, everything looked normal to a novice like me.
My question: When I purchased all of the oils to do the differentials (4x4), transfer case and the 5 speed, the vendor recommended adding the small bottle of the Red Line friction modifier to the LSD rear-end. I questioned him on that since the hypoid gear oil bottle stated that the additive was already in it (and bpeebles remarks on the subject). He recommended it anyway. So rather than make the 60 mile round trip again, I bought the additive for $5+ but I have not put it in yet.
How can I tell if I might need more fiction-modifier additive or if I'm Ok where I'm at? I didn't experience any rear tire grabbing while doing the figure-8's, that would indicate that the clucthes were locked up. Also, after another 15 mile "new oil circulating" trip, I punched it while sit on stones. Both wheels spun and dug the same size hole at the same time (no delay from side to the other). I guess everything is operating as it should but are there better tests?
With the bottom plug remove, the hot oil came pouring out and does run along some of the transmission's fins, so use a large enough pan sitting on newspapers to reduce to mess. After a good draining, I applied Mopar's sealer on the bottom plug (same Mopar stuff used on the rear differential cover). Used a big "syringe" with 10 inches of tubing to suck the new Red Line oil out of its containers and then to inject it through the transmission's side fill hole. Everything seems OK after my test drive.
While cleaning up, I poured the drained transmission oil into containers for recycling. That's when I saw a thin layer of sparkling metal filings at the bottom of the pan. A magnet does not attract these so I'm assuming it's aluminum. I'm not worried because I didn't see any big pieces and I've not had any problems (noise or vibration).
After a week or two and barring any noises / problems, I'll work on the transfer-case and then the front differential.
See post # 4495 in QUAD OWNERS site.
The only problem I have is with Smittybilt!!
I have the stainless steel nerf bars, something ( I think a chunk of metal) was flipped under my QC in back of the front wheels and took out the rear pass side bracket hitting it so hard that it "sprung" the stainless steel tube. So I went into the web site to order replacement parts and I'm being told that I have to order a complete set, the parts aren't available separately. They did save me a tire and possibly a rim (Centerline) but if any one is going to add the steps or nerf bars you might want to check on availability of replacement parts. The instruction sheet gives the impression that parts are available !
good luck to everyone and if anyone knows of any solution to my problem I would appreciate all info
You don't indicate what kind of maintenance you've performed, but this could be something as simple as a loose accessory drive belt.
Its not unusual for failing water pumps to begin seizing and breaking free sometime after starting the engine. So it's something to look at. You should check into this now before you go much farther.
Bes of luck,
Dusty
John
'01 CC, 4.7, auto, loaded, Love it!!!
Dick
The way the 2003 Dakota service manual reads, if schedule "A", the Primary (called "sump" filter in the maintenance section of the service manual) and Cooler Return filters do not need replacement until 100,000 miles.
With schedule "B" vehicles, the Primary filter gets replaced at 30K, 60K, and both Primary and Cooler Return filters get replaced at 90K.
Sounds like there's a descrepancy between the owners manual and the service manual.
Best regards,
Dusty
You may be right about the Schedule B filter changes. I was operating off of memory, which isn't as good as it used to be. I'll have to check my manual.
I know exactly what you're dealing with!!!!
Bests,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
I knew a guy who did nothing but this type of work for various dealerships.
Bests,
Dusty
Anyway, I'm going to change out the differential lubricant and shopped for a 75W-90 synthetic gear lubricant and couldn't find any. A couple of places had the 90W-140 in synthetic, but that's not what I want to use for this application.
Does anybody know of a 75W-90 in synthetic?
I bought the Mopar materials for now, but in the future I'd like to find the synthetic version.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
Funny thing, but today was the first time I had the sliding rear window open on my Club Cab, and I thought I heard some fuel pump noise as well. I did not find it objectionable. Oddly, I've stood next to this truck many times and never heard it on the outside.
>>One comes on very low when you let off the accelerator and coast down a grade.<<
Worn or damaged differential bearings are usually the cause of low frequency-type noises, but pinion bearings are most often associated with coast or load type noises.
Of course, just about any type of rear axle noise can be caused by insufficient gear lubricant. You can check that yourself by removing the rubber plug from the differential cover. The level should pretty much be right at the bottom of the filler hole.
Drivetrain noises are not always easy to diagnose and you can't always rule out tires, although most of the time tire noise is easily recognizable and increases/decreases with speed. I've been involved in troubleshooting a couple of "rear axle" noises that were caused by a combination of an out-of-balanced wheel and a worn shock, believe it or not.
Anyway, hope any of this helps.
Best regards,
Dusty
Like a previous poster noted, mine had a thin layer of sooty material covering everything. This is material from the clutch packs and is pretty typical in limited slip units. I used spray carburetor cleaner and then dried everything with compressed air before reassembly.
I was pleasantly surprised to see absolutely no signs of bearing material or other metal particles in the oil. In the past some of this I've seen is metal bits from the machining processes that didn't get removed at the factory.
I used the Mopar friction modifier and the 80W-90 gear oil. On mine, the factory sealant is a red colored RTV. The replacement Mopar stuff that's specially formulated for things requiring transmission oil, is gray. Don't use the black or blue RTV materials on the differential cover.
It's a lot easier to fill the housing if the spare tire is off the vehicle. I found that a short piece of fuel line hose on the end of the spout worked okay, but less convenient.
Regards,
Dusty
PS - I don't think I had a clutch chatter problem after all, so the gear oil was probably okay. It turns out that I was hearing gasoline in the tank smacking, which it does when its nearly full.
Bookitty
The whine on the Dakota just started a couple of days ago.
Resonance problems can be tough because it could be associated with anything in the driveline or components that contact it. I once heard of a situation just like yours that was caused by a loose set of spring shackles.
Does this noise stop on turns or moderate curves?
Have you checked the gear oil level?
Have you ever had the gear oil changed? (30K intervals)
Try this.
1. Get the axle components warm by driving a few miles.
2. Select a stretch of relatively smooth pavement.
3. Get the vehicle speed up about 20mph past the point where you normally hear the whine.
4. Take the vehicle out of gear and allow it to coast through the resonant speed area.
If you don't hear the noise at all, or the noise changes in tone or speed, this generally narrows it down to the ring and pinion. You could have damaged or worn ring and pinion gear tooth surfaces, incorrect ring-to-pinion depth, or incorrect ring & pinion backlash.
I'm curious, do you have the 8.25 or 9.25 axle? Have you done a lot of towing or towing excessive weights? Have you done a lot of highway sppeds for long distances?
I ask these questions only to determine if vehicle use may have contributed to a premature axle problem. If not, my suspicion is that something wasn't set up correctly at the factory
Let us know how you make out with this problem.
Regards,
Dusty
Something I've never seen before on an axle housing.
Dusty
>>Does this noise stop on turns or moderate curves? No
>>Have you checked the gear oil level? Yes, it is up to the fill hole.
>> Have you ever had the gear oil changed? (30K intervals). It was changed to synthetic 75W-140 at approx 19K (now at 29K).
As per you suggestions, I tried the "coast down" test. While coasting through 40-35 MPH, I had no noise. This is the region where it is usually the loudest.
I do have the 9.25" differential. I have towed about 6K miles (out of the past 10K) with trailers weighing from 1500-3000 lbs. Most of my driving is usually 10-15 mile trips. The exceptions being vacations and such (usually 1-2K miles per year, except about 6K miles this year)
My dealer has a new R&P on order. I'll probably have it installed in early September, after camping season is over. I want to take my time breaking it in and don't want to do any towing for 500-1000 miles after the installation. I'll also be sure to change the fluid after that break in period, instead of waiting longer.
I'll keep you informed of how it goes.
In my experience most differential problems are latent in nature, meaning that there was an assembly issue right from the start. Usually either the pinion depth or backlash wasn't set correctly at the factory.
I have seen differentials wear out, but this is usually from use at or over the extreme limits of the design, depending on the unit, or just from many, many miles.
I've also seen chipped ring or pinion teeth cause the same symptoms as yours, but those have often been higher performance cars that suffered from too many torgue-outs or holeshots. Novas, SS Chevelles and GTOs were famous for that many years ago. GMs of the sixties and seventies use to blow out side gear teeth, too.
Chrysler products very seldomly suffer from catastrophic failures. Almost always its related to noise and ...in my opinion... usually caused by incorrect set-up at the factory. I've seen too many go 100,000 - 200,000 miles without a problem of any kind to believe its design related.
Good luck,
Dusty
After refilling each component, I've run the vehicle for a week until doing the next. Before doing the next, I've inspected the last one for leaks and then removed the fill plugs to add just a little bit more lube to get the proper level. The transmission took the most on the "second fill", which was another 100 cc. The transmission wasn't hot for this last inspection / fill-up but was done on the same level garage floor.
My only point is that it's easy to check the levels on the your new fluid refills and it appears to be warranted to get that level just right.
This morning my fuel gauge registered flat empty
and the dash fuel indicator was also illuminated.
I knew I had at least 1/4 tank. I stopped and put
2 gals. in, turned key back on and gauge read
correctly 1/2 tank.
Just a glitch? Anyone else see this before?
Are shocks covered under warranty? My truck ride
seems to have deteriated?
MM
What I saw on the highway made/makes me want to scream. I had visions of my Dakota running down the highway at 80+ mph driven by a senior citizen with absolutely no respect for the person who will own the vehicle! And these older guys should know better. Suggesting the vehicle is under warranty, so who cares? I'm still seeing red!!!
Gas gauge is still acting up, guess I'll have to
finally make a trip to the dealer.
MM
Thanks for your help.
The 46RE is 19-20 pints.
Be advised that the 545RFE requires ATF+4. Do not let anyone talk you into believing otherwise.
I believe ATF+3 is okay for the 46RE of that vintage.
Regards,
Dusty
One of the prerequisites for installing the JET Stage II module is the use of a 180-degree thermostat. I know a lot of you have been using the RobertShaw, making a modification to the gasket in order for it to properly fit in the 4.7.
Call me paranoid, but I would really rather have a low temp t-stat that is a direct-fit replacement.
My question is: Does installation of the Dodge Performance ECM have the same requirement? It would make sense that it does, but I cannot find any documentation that states either way.
Thanks,
Ready10
BTW, these are the same morons who like to take new V8 Dakotas and do burnouts in the lot. See message #4448 in the Dakota Quad Cab thread.
Some of the worst, most unfriendly, most uninterested customer service comes from US automobile dealers, especially the service departments. I have stories you wouldn't believe.
Once you find a good dealer, however, it makes you appreciate them.
Best regards,
Dusty