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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    I replaced my factory rotors with Power Slots about 10,000 miles ago and I like them, but my shudder has returned under light braking. When I had problems with Cooper tires last spring, they found that both the front rims were not rotating perfectly straight. I figure that this is a factor in my problem and plan on getting it resolved. I have to think that if the brakes are involved, it may be the rotor mounting that is at fault. I plan on having everything checked out. If they can resolve this I'll let you know. The mechanic that installed the powerslots is really good and he suggested that if I have a problem before putting 40,000 miles on them, that it may be a good idea to have the rotors milled on the truck.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (steve234) Have you tried "letting the smoke out" of the brakes?

    There have been several folks with Daks that have found a layer of 'crud' on the rotors will cause a 'warped rotor like' feeling. Your problem is just a layer of grunge on the rotors. (rust, oils...etc.)

    Just do some VERY heavy braking several times in succession followed up by about 20 minutes of driving to cool the brakes off.

    Most likely, this will 'cure' your brake 'shuddering' problem for another 10K miles.

    Do NOT mill the powerslots... the thin hard-surfacing may be destroyed.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    My wife is a light braker and she is the one that has the problem with it.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    bpeebles might be better to offer an opinion here, but I would think that ceramic pads might be less prone to contributing to the rusting scuz syndrome of semi-metallic pads. On my wife's cars, close inspection clearly shows rusted outlines of the pads in literally 100s of positions around the rotor face.

    Obviously when at rest over night, rust forms around the perimeter of the pad. After a while, especially if not driven very far, the scuz just gets overwhelming and you get to feel all that build-up through the brake pedal.

    However, I have talked to people that have not been satisfied with either the performance or the longevity of the pad material.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Just got a new water pump on my 02, 4.7 QC today. It had been making intermittent screeching noises after start-up in cold weather since the truck was new. I left it overnight at the dealer for the past two nights and stopping by in the morning to take their head tech for a ride. Finally this morning, the problem re-occurred. The tech traced it to the water pump. They had the new pump on within two hours.

    Less than 600 miles left on the warranty. If I could just get the front-end popping noises to be consistently repeatable, maybe they could get that fixed too.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (sunburn) My 2000 4.7L has made that sound during cold-wether starts since new too. The sound only lasts a few seconds. I have heard that many other 4.7L engines that make the same sound. Most folks do not consider it a "problem".

    QUESTION: Were you experiencing anything other than an occasional noise during cold starts? (leakage, bearing failure...etc)

    Since I only get the sound for a few seconds when the temp is well below 0F... it is only an issuue for about a month each year.

    Please keep us updated on how the new waterpump behaves in below-zero tempartures.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    (bpeebles)-there wasn't any other problem beside a loud screeching sound. It would occasionally happen after startup when below 35 deg and last for about a minute. It was an intermittent problem from Oct through April in my truck. Hopefully the new pump cures the problem. I'll know better after 2-3 weeks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    My 2000 Dak with 4.7L was due for the 36-month antifreeze change. (the 2000s DO NOT have the long-life stuff in them)

    I spent hours taking pieces off and looking for the "drain cock" on the ratiator. The Shop manual says there is one... but I never found it.

    I ended up removing the thermostat housing and letting it drain like that. I am impressed with the built-in seal on the thermostat. (no gaskets required.)

    While I was under the hood, I pulled the throttlebody and gave it a thorough spraying with cleaner. I also pulled the IAC (IdleAirController) and cleaned that. Now my Dak runs smooth as silk again... not bad for 50 cents worth of spray cleaner and 1/2 hour of time.
  • russonatorrussonator Member Posts: 2
    During heavy rains the passenger side carpet of my '99 gets soaked. I suspect a windshield leak based on earlier postings here. Anyone know the cost of resealing windshield at a dealership? Can a guy do this himself?
    Thanks,
    Russ
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    There is a special silicone windshield sealant available at auto parts stores. It is a thick liquid in a tube. I put masking tape on the painted areas and pulled back the rubber seal just enough to inject the sealant under it. The sealant flows easily and I haven't had any repeat leaks. Good luck.
                             Dick
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I had trouble finding the drain also. I have an '01 CC. I am used to the drain being on the aft side of radiators. This on is actually on the end of the radiator on the drivers side. It does not protrude enough to be easily seen and it is black plastic which blends in well with the radiator. I found it hard to turn without a pair of pliers and because it is plastic I was nervous about breaking it off. Visions of a new radiator flashed through my head!!!! The block drain was also a little nerve wracking. It did not loosen up for about five turns and I thought the threads had galled. Everything turned out okay. I have the long term antifreeze but here in south Florida the cooling system is a priority preventive maintenance item for me.
                                       Dick :-)
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    bpeebles, What type of antifreeze did you use on your 2000. I am also due for that change before winter. Did you flush the entire system including the block.

    John
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jhorl) I used what came out (Regular prestone green stuff)

    The main reason I did this is because I have read too many horror-stories about the so-called Dex-cool stuff.

    Keep in mind that Dodge DOES NOT USE Dex-cool... even in newer Daks. They use a propriatory antifreeze that should NEVER be mixed with the GM Dex-cool stuff. (nor with the green stuff)

    Mixing different antifreeze can lead to the silicates "gelling" and plugging up the system. Your engine can quickly become a boat-anchor if this happens.

    Since it is virtually impossible to fully remove all of the 'old' antifreeze, just use what came out.

     Do not forget to mix with DISTILLED WATER. The shop manual specifically says this is required in the 4.7L V8. I ALWAYS mix antifreeze with distilled water... it is cheap insurance that the chemical-soup is not compromised by the impurities in my tap water.

    Since I was able to get about 2 gallons out of it. I am satisfied that I have enough fresh antifreeze in there for the time being. I expect to change it more frequently now (annually) so the 2-gallon change will be satisfactory.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Just watched CBS on the BIG problem with Durango/Dakota upper ball joints. Over 300 problem
    reports just for Durangos!!! They said Dakotas were even more(worse)!!
    Doesn't sound good for Dodge?
    I still also have front ends pops and suspension
    is feeling worse.
    Will make a trip to dealer soon.
    Mick
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (mtrialsm) This is old news. Have you heard about the front brake rotors? (Besides... 300 problem reports is a very small percentage of the number of Dakotas and Durangos manufactured over the years.)
    That "300" means NOTHING unless it is qualified with more data like the total datapoints in the calculation.

    I can tell you about how many Honda Accord automatic xmissions have failed.... or what about all of the Toyota 6-cylinder engines that are suffering from oil emulsification. I could mention the Saturn engines that consume oil. ALL VEHICLES HAVE THEIR GLITCHES. Just do your research and weigh the pros/cons before purchasing.

    Are you aware that Dodge does not just replace an upper ball joint (UBJ)... the UBJ is part of the ENTIRE upper suspention mechinism. It is replaced as an entire unit. (approx $1,200)

    I installed HIGH QUALITY, MOOG greasable upper ball joints when mine started to get loose. I give them a shot of grease every few months. (MOOG P/N K7242)

    Why let the dealer install the same crappy parts that you allready know are junk? For less $$, the MOOG UBJs are much better and greasable. Any gas-station mechanic can install MOOG UBJ's they are a common wear item on many vehicles.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    I know I can replace the ball joints with no problem myself and would like the moog greasable
    joints. I have an extended warrentee and plan to
    keep my Dakota for 5 or 6 more years.
    It's a 2001 Quad with 32K miles. I haven't been
    back to the dealer once. But want to get them to
    check out the front end and my intermitant gas guage. I have also had the turn signals fail twice
    in the last 6 months (clock spring?). I bang on the steering wheel to fix.
    Mick
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    At the first tire rotation I noticed that the cup seals were pretty flat. This usually means there's not a lot of grease in them. I thought about drilling and installing some zerks, but every time I get ready to do that I think about warranty being void.

    I would think that Moog makes a replaceable ball joint without requiring a new control arm assembly. I think bpeebles is right. I'm pretty sure that the service manual states that the control arm and joint are serviced as one unit.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ayakayak Member Posts: 7
    MIL came on first thing this morning. Stopped and restarted, still on. It sat all day, but was still on going home. Restarted a few times. Didn't help. Sounds and runs fine. Did not notice or hear anything different once home, and having a chance to look around. Did a road trip to parents house this past weekend, 300 miles each way, no problems, Monday it was fine. It is a 2001 Quad, 4x4, 4.7L, 38,000 miles. Any suggestions prior to taking it to the dealer would be appreciated. Not under warranty any more.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Check the gas cap, is it tight, was is off?
    If so, takes a few cycles to go out. It happened
    to me after I forgot to tighten the cap.
    MM
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    ayak, I just had the same repaired on my dakota with similar milage. The code turned up an emmissions leak. It was the gas cap itself. They said it had rusted out. Apparently there is some metal up inside that plastic cap that once rusted will allow air in. $80 diagnosis for a $6 cap. I live in Western NY with plenty of rain,snow, and salt, that may have contributed to it.
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    I am going to show my ignorance here. How did you keep from mixing the propriatory antifreeze, allready installed, with the prestone green stuff you added.
         Next, how do I know what it is that's coming out, to know what to replace it with?

    In Atlanta
  • ayakayak Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the help.Ferous on the Quad forum told me how to check the P code. Code was P0442, Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak).
    Gas cap is on, but I'll replace that first. I'll post on how it goes. Thanks again.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (gjble) Both valid questions!
    How did you keep from mixing the propriatory antifreeze, allready installed, with the prestone green stuff you added?
    My (very early) 2000 Dak had the ol' conventional american green antifreeze in it from the factory. That is why I stuck with that type.

    how do I know what it is that's coming out, to know what to replace it with? GOOD QUESTION! Usually the color will be the only clue you have. (except in Dodge Trucks!)

    Here is a good write-up about antifreeze. Pay close attention to the sections that mention Dodge Trucks.
    http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/archive/99_8/0415.html
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Had the same code as yow are having (PO442) it was the hoses at the gas tank, kr
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I have never been a believer in long oil change intervals. Motor oil gets contaminated with moisture, acids, dirt, and breaks down leaving the additive chemicals to take on independent properties of their own.

    The last time I changed oil I used Mobil 1 5W-30. Since I have recently had a change in lifestyle I realized that opportunity and access to a garage would be much more limiting. So I decided to try the Mobil 1 and see how far I could go.

    At 7000 miles the oil still looked surprisingly clean in the 4.7. But when I changed it the oil seemed quite thick. This was especially noticeable when pouring fresh Mobil 1 back in.

    I'm going to have this used oil tested, but I'm suspicious that the viscosity index improvers are outliving the pour-point depressants. This is actually typical of multiviscosity oils, but if this is true then why pay the price for Mobil 1?

    Anyway, I'll let everyone know what the test results are.

    At 17000 miles the Dak is running like a charm. Just recently got 22.93 MPG on a trip. But, if I drive impatiently it drops precipitously. It's 13 months old and still no problems. This may end up being a better assembled vehicle than my Nissan, which until now was the best I've ever owned.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    My 2000 Dakota was built in June of 2000. I'm pretty sure it is the green prestone but not 100% positive. I hope so since I just added about 2 gallons of new antifreeze, (1 Gal Distilled water,1 Gal antifreeze) Is there any sure way of knowing when in 2000 Chrystler changed types.

    John
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (dustyk) If this was your first use of Mobil1 in this engine... I have another possibility for the 'thickness' you noticed after 7K miles.

    Mobil1 is a VERY good solvent. I will actually CLEAN the thick, goopy, buildup from the inside of an engine that has been running dyno-oil. I beleive the 'thickness'you were seeing was the suspended gunk which tended to thicken the Mobil1

    Most motoroil will THIN as it is used because the plastic that is added to the oil to make it multi-grade gets sheared.

    SIMPLIFICATION:
    To make a multi-grade oil... ie. (10W30)
    *)Start with base 10-weight oil.
    *)add plastic (long-chain molicules) to it to thicken it until it meets the 30-weight specification too.

    During use:
    The gears and other sliding parts in the engine tend to chop the long-chain molicules into little bits... leaving behind the base-stock 10weight oil.

    As for "extended" oil changes... most automiobles today call for 7500 miles between oil changes. This is when running dyno-oil. 7500 miles should NOT be considerd "extended". Heck, my Volkswagen calls for 10,000 mile oil-changes (But that is running million-mile oil "Mobil DELVAC1")

    Only the folks that get PAID to change oil recommed the wasteful 3,000 mile oil-change. Folks that KNOW engines and have held pistons in their hands know that 7,500 miles is just fine under most conditions.

    You do have a point when you say "Motor oil gets contaminated with moisture, acids, dirt, and breaks down leaving the additive chemicals to take on independent properties of their own."
    But that is with poorly-blended, cheep oil. (79cents a quart at Wallmart)

    Modern motoroil that meets the specifications of the engine manufacturer will easilly go the 7,500 miles that they recommend. (They have a built-in 'safety factor' on top of that too.)
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    pumps more freely at low temps. This, I feel, is critical in an OHC engine. Especially given the fact that MOST OHC engines run the cams in plain bearings, no inserts. Thus, if you wipe a cam, the camshaft mounting saddles are indeed the bearing surface and now you are talking a new head.

    THe 4.7 has close clearances too. Again, a motor oil that flows well when cold is key here.

    And so is a good filter. I use NAPA/WIX filters only available at NAPA parts stores. They are made by Wix. I have taken them apart and am most impressed with the quality of components and carefull assembly. Also you won't see these filters showing up at "big box" cheapo sale price so there really is little incentive for Wix to cut corners so as to have a price point product. That's a job for Fram.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ...can vary in base stock viscosity, especially since the API allows the refiners of package motor oils to claim proprietary license. I doubt that the Mobil 1 is getting thicker because of any dino residue. Multi-vis in general will have a tendency to lose the pour-point depressants first. This is typical of modern blends. The VIs are much more durable than they were 30-35 years ago.

    Since the oil is relatively clean, I'm sure that the inside of my 4.7 is that way too.

    I know that more manufacturers are calling for long drain intervals -- as high as 25,000 -- but driving conditions vary so much that I think for some that's going to be way too long. Now I know some are convinced that synthetic is nearly indestructable. The truth is that the magic in motor oil is in the additive package. The base oil is secondary. Where synthetics do have an edge is in their ability to maintain flow and viscosity characteristics over a broader range of temperatures. As far as durability, I am not otherwise convinced.

    Anyway, I'm taking some samples to our lab on Monday. I'll see what our lubrication engineer says.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    jhorl, you must be careful of making assumptions based on the color of the coolant. My 2003 Dakota also has a green-colored coolant, but it is definitely HOAT - Hybrid Organic Additive Technology. This is available from Chrysler or Dodge dealers as Mopar # MS-9769 (Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, Five-year/100,000 Mile Formula). Chrysler appears to be unique in the industry at this time by using hybrid coolants in some of their vehicles. Most manufacturers are using either straight OAT or ethylene-glycol based coolants.

    Based on what I've read, Dodge trucks have been using the HOAT coolant since 1998 or before. The 4.7 in particular was designed around the use of a HOAT coolant.

    Whatever and where ever I've read anything on the subject the great precaution is to never mix types. Some coolant system seals and other materials are not compatible with either type. If you are unsure, contact your (or a) Dodge dealer and ask. I believe they might have a list of which Chrysler-built vehicles need which type, since they do the same time for ATF.

    The Mopar HOAT is conservatively rated to go 5 years or 100,000 miles in a system that is properly maintained, including using only distilled water as Bpeebles mentioned in an earlier post. However, once contaminated with another type, some believe that only extensive flushing will render the system neutral enough again to return to HOAT.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Oh, the usual mix for ethylene-glycol based coolants is 50% with water. Chrysler HOAT is 55-60%.

    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (dustyk) You Re correct that only Dodge is using HOAT and it is only available from them. (No one else uses the HYBRED OAT)

    You are mistaken about the 4.7L V8 always using HOAT. I have the Dodge shop manual (BOB=BigOrangeBook)that I purchased wiht my 2000 Dakota.

    On page 7-29, under "REFILLING 4.7L ENGINE" it SPECIFICALLY says to use "50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze and low-mineral content water"

    It cannot be said enough times that MIXING the differnt kind of antifreezes will damage your engine. Excessive corrosion and gell plugging up the small passageways is the reason.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, you might be correct, although I thought I had read that the 287 motor was designed around HOAT. But at my age, like a number of other body functions, the memory isn't what it use to be.

    Yeah, my 2003 Dakota manual is confusing in this area, too. Like your manual, mine says the same thing on page 7-14 (Standard Procedure - Refilling Cooling System, 4.7 Engine). And like yours it says to "use 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze and low-mineral content water."

    But in the Lubrication & Maintenance section (page 0-4), the service manual then states in "COOLANT SELECTION AND ADDITIVES:"

    "The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar AntiFreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), with organic corrosion inhibitors (called Hoat) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze point of -37C. If it loses color or become contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution."

    I suspect that the manual might be suffering from inadequate editing. The basic service manual format in many areas has been written and used for many years. Newer manuals use previous editions as a boilerplate then edit out old or incorrect information and add newer information. This appears to be an area that got missed since I know that in 2003 every Dakota engine used HOAT.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Now you got me thinking... I just did an antifreeze change in my 2000 Dak. I did not put much effort into draining all of the old stuff. (would have to remove radiator and hose it out to do that)

    I used about 1.5 gallons of 50/50 ethylene-glycol. I sure hope I have not mixed this with HOAT.. .that may not be good for my cooling system.
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    I'm also feeling a bit worried about my recent job. I looked into the overflow tank and saw a funky frothy thick substance floating on top after I completed the job. I may be doing a complete flush very soon.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Else where in the 2003 Dakota manual, it says that the coolant reserve cap will indicate what type of coolant receipe to use. It's 0-dark hundred here in Rochester, NY. I'll check this on mine tomorrow.

    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    Just got this off of Valvoline website. It states that the HOAT was factory installed on 2001 and newer. It also states that it is orange in color. I hope I'm safe here.

    What vehicles use Zerex G-05 in the factory fill and what is the dye color?
    1984 Mercedes and beyond (light yellow)
    1990 Deere and Company vehicles and beyond (green)
    2001 Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep and beyond (orange)
    2002 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury trucks and SUVS and beyond (yellow)
    2003 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury automobiles and beyond (yellow)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jhorl)Its not that easy.... only DODGE TRUCK uses GREEN HOAT. (other companies use OAT which is orange)

    My Volkswgen uses PURE OrganicAcidTechnology and it is Florecent PINK colored. This stuff is only manufactured in Germany. (There is no substitute)
    Fortunatly, the PINK VW stuff is one of the best on the planet and should last the life of the vehicle.
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    I just checked the dipstick on the resouvouir tank and the holes to indicate proper level were all clooged up with a white gel like substance. I'm not feeling too good about this right now.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jhorl) I see your 2000 Dakota was built in June of 2000.

    My 2000 Dak with 4.7L engine was built in October 1999. I used about 1.5 gallons of 50/50 ethylene-glycol over a wek ago... no froth in my overflow tank.

    Unfortunitly, I think you need to COMPLETELY hose out your cooling system (dont forget the heater core) and ensure that it is all the same stuff in there.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yep, Bpeebles is correct. Dodge trucks got the green colored HOAT.

    Jhorl, on the sludge, I assume you are referring to the oil dipstick? If that's the case, what you're seeing is signs of moisture in the oil. This could mean several things, either independently or together.

    The PCV valve could be clogged. Moisture enters the engine everytime it is shutdown. As it cools down it draws in ambient air, which contains moisture. When the engine is operating manifold vacuum pulls in the crankcase air and moisture through the PCV valve and burns it. If this doesn't happen, the internal area of the engine will build up with moisture and eventually dilute the oil.

    The engine may not be coming up to full operating temperature. The coolant temperature should be around 200F when the engine is fully warmed. If not, moisture will not be evaporated inside the engine and turned to water vapor to be purge by the PCV system.

    Short trip driving can cause this same scenario. A combination of short trip driving and either of the above can cause rapid coaggulation of the oil. Long oil drain intervals may exacerbate this problem. The cure for short trip driving problems is more frequent oil changes, unfortunately.

    I would drain the oil immediately, check the PCV valve and the vacuum lines going to the engine. Check the operating temperature to make sure the themostat is working correctly. If you use a good quality detergent oil in the future, there is very little threat of long term damage.

    Let us know what you find.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    No, I'm referring to the coolant dipstick. I'm use to seeing the sludge in the plastic oil fill throat during the winter.
    I may be trading this truck in much sooner than I expected.
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    By the way, I've been using Mobil 1 5W30 since the truck had about 4000 miles on it. I've put a lot of care and precaution into this truck until this stupid move.
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    This has been a great discussion on Anti-freeze
    ,answering a lot of my questions and raising some new concerns, I didn't know how carefull I have to be when I service my truck. The bottom line is, the forum works. Thanks everybody.

    In Atlanta
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    I am going bonkers!! I have had my 2001 quad, 4.7, auto, 4x4, 4wheel abs in the shop over 5 times for bad brakes. So bad that the dealer kept my truck and put me in a rental for 2 weeks and deemed my truck unsafe to drive.I just turned over 36 thousand miles but luckily this was preexisting.

    If I am slowing down and let off the brakes and put my foot back in it, the pedal wont move much, it will make a popping sound in the pedal (not like abs shudder, just a quick pop) and the brakes are like putting the truck in Neutral and coasting to a stop. I cant tell you how many orange cones on the highway the road I have hit trying to avoid hitting someone in front of me. I am suprised my frontend and rims on the truck or still ok since I have to jump curbs alot to avoid hitting people.

    They have replaced all the brake sensors, master cyl twice and even finally told me my pads were bad (after telling me weeks before the pads were fine) I went to an independent shop and they said the pads, discs and drums were great, but I had them do the front and rear pads with turning front and rear and I still have the same problem. The dealer said nothing else they could do. Called D/C and they called dealer and now they want me to bring it back in.

    Anybody heard of this?

    I would Lemon this truck like the last Dakota but past the 18k mile Lemon Law.

    Thanks for the rant.

    Robert
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Wow! That is one of the strangest symptoms I have ever heard of.

    Have they tried disconnecting the ABS to see if the same condition exists?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Not sure. I will ask.
  • kingquad1kingquad1 Member Posts: 37
    I had a similar problem on my 94 S10 chevy...go to brake and I can't move the brake pedal!!!
    I'm 220pounds!!! of course, the dealer couldn't duplicate the condition( isn't that always the case), so on the way home from work, at GM no less, I have no brakes.....so I take it right to the dealer, get the service manager and take in for a spin...needless to say, after 5 or 6 trys to stop it,he believed me.....anyhow, they had to replace the abs modular.....1500 bucks worth!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, that's sort of where I was headed. My first guess would have been the master cylinder, but they've already replaced that twice. Since master cylinder failures are very, very low on Dakotas, I think after two replacements we could eliminate that as a contributor...at least for now.

    If there isn't any sign of mechanical bing in the master cylinder input shaft (the part that connects to the brake pedal), what else would cause this problem?

    Henne doesn't state that there are any other braking abnormalidies, like pulling to one side, etc. So I'm just thinking that maybe under certain conditions the ABS system is falsely refusing any further foot pressure on the brake pedal. Henne, I know you said you're not hearing any ABS actuation, but on my Dakota when the ABS is triggered I don't feel any pulsing or hear the typical stacotto sound of the ABS like I get on the Toyota or in GM products. My has actually triggered a few times and I never realized it until after I stopped. they appear to be very quiet.

    So, you might want to make the suggestion to de-feature the ABS and dsrive it for a while to see if the symptom arises.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    Thought I’d chime in here with my experiences with a coolant changeout. I have a 2000 (April built) 4.7L 5-speed, 4x4, with Heavy Duty package. I changed my coolant a couple of weeks ago. I followed the process outlined in BOB, which recommends removing the 2 drain plugs on either side of the block, along with draining the rad.

    Front skid plate removal is highly recommended. I also removed the entire plastic shroud that covers up access to the oil filter. Front wheels were raised up about 8”. I put a 1 foot piece of garden hose on the drain valve on the rad (located on the driver side of rad near bottom) and emptied into a bucket. Got about 4 L of fluid. Then undid the lower rad hose at the thermostat. Got about 1.5 L. Then undid the passenger side drain plug, and got another 2 L. Spillage on floor: about half a liter.

    The drain plug was difficult to undo (hard to find initially, also) and required a heavier/longer socket wrench (I used a ½” torque wrench with 4” extension, and a 9/16” shallow socket). This required a bit of manipulation of the wrench handle around the oil pan, and I could only turn the wrench about 30º (1 or 2 clicks on the wrench). It eventually came off and was a mess since fluid spills all over the front suspension….have lots of rags handy! I couldn’t get at the driver’s side drain plug because of the starter and front differential being in the way so I ignored it (I believe fluid would have spilled all over the starter anyway, possibly causing other problems).

    Got close to 8L of fluid out of the system…not exactly sure because there was spillage on my garage floor. Total system capacity is 16L (about 17 quarts). I then replaced the drain plug and lower rad hose, filled the system with distilled water, put on the rad cap, ran engine up to 3000 rpm for 10 seconds, then shut her down, and topped off with distilled water. I ran the truck around town for about 20 minutes and parked her overnight to let it cool. Next morning I repeated the whole process, again filling with distilled water. I then drained it a third time, then put in about 7.5 L of Prestone Ethylene Glycol, ran it to mix it up good, and found it to give protection to about –46º F. That is probably around a 55:45 antifreeze to water ratio. It occasionally reaches –40º here so the extra protection is needed. BOB recommends using EG for 2000 Dakotas, and I haven’t found any gooey mess or discoloration since.

    By changing out roughly half of the fluid each time, and doing it 3 times, I figure there was only about 1L of old antifreeze left in the system, if it initially was 50/50 from the factory.

    I did discover something interesting during the process. The coil spring inside the upper rad hose that is used for stiffening is visible when the cap is off. It had deposits all over it. There were also deposits on the drain plug tip. This surprised me, as the truck was only 42 months old (just under 60,000 km/35,000 miles). I expected it to be virtually pristine. Knowing this, I think the next time I do this (in 2 years) I will consider using some kind of flushing/cleaning additive first, just for peace of mind, although BOB doesn’t recommend doing anything unless there is obvious scaling/corrosion. The only thing that I think could have caused this was if Dodge used tap water when the truck was built. I added a 50/50 mix once, but estimated that only about half liter of tap water went into the system, and tap water where I live is fairly soft. The deposits were soft and could be easily rubbed off with a fingertip. Interestingly, the spring that stiffens the lower rad hose had no deposits on it at all.

    HINTS: I used the top half of a 2 L Pepsi bottle with a piece of garden hose duct taped to it to act as a funnel when popping the drain plug. I read on another board (after the fact) that if you leave the rad cap on while draining the rad, it will suck out all of the fluid from the overflow reservoir. Didn’t have a full reservoir anyway, so I wasn’t too worried. Be carefull when popping the rad cap, as even running a cold engine for 10 seconds at 3000 rpm will charge the system with enough pressure to blow fluid out of the cap (use a rag under the lip of the cap when opening or you’ll spray all over the belt, etc). I also used anti-seize on the drain plug. The drain plugs are visible from outside of the vehicle if you look through the front wheel wells. The passenger drain is a few inches from the block heater (if you have one). You may be able to get to it from there, but it would be tricky. I loosened it up from under the truck and then undid the last few turns from inside the wheel well…not as much anti-freeze in the face that way! Access to the driver side drain is more difficult and would probably be easier if the tire was removed.

    I know bpeebles says he had trouble finding the rad drain stopcock. Look about 3” above the plastic air dam/lower fascia on the driver’s side of the rad. It’s kind of hidden on the side of the rad, and has a short piece of hose on it that is bent upwards onto itself.

    Doing it yourself is a messy job, and next time I think I would pull off the thermostat housing instead of the hose on the housing, as I now realize there is no gasket to replace. By the third changeout it was not as messy and much faster (I could probably now do1 drain/fill cycle in under half an hour).

    Hope this helps.
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