Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

ronslakie · January 2004

dapeppe - I insert the needle somewhere in the mid section of the rubber bladder and give 3 or 4 pumps on the grease gun. Then I feel the bladder to see how full it is to determine if it need s a few more pumps. Most times I have not experienced any grease leakage after withdrawing the needle. It is not really very complicated. By the way the needles frequently come in a set of 2 different sizes, I have used the larger size simply to reduce the number of pumps.

Ron

roper2 · January 2004

I changed my oil today and when puting in the new oil I noticed a very light film of what looked like rust on part of the cap and inside the fill neck.Had 4000 miles on the oil and checked it and there was no water in the oil and was dark but still somewhat clean.It smelled ok.Is this condensation from humid weather or what? It has 42000 on it runs great never had a problem . Thanks I'm in tx.

bpeebles · January 2004

(roper2) What you are seeing is the residue of the "snot problem". In the very early 4.7L engines, the inside of oil-fill tube would get coated with a thick coating of oil-water emulsion (aka snot). To help alleviate this problem the design of the cap was changed (it is no longer hollow) and a "baffle" is inserted into the oil-fill tube. (you should be pulling it out and wiping it clean regularly)

Many folks changed to using synthetic oil which greatly reduced the 'snot' buildup.

How do I know all of this.... I have an early 2000 4.7L and was perhaps the first one to report this 'snot' problem in late 1999. Within 6 months, Damlier-Chrysler had redesigned the cap twice and added the baffle. (My dak was one of the first to get these 'upgrades')

The baffle does not reduce the buildup of 'snot' very much but it does HIDE it. That is why the baffle should be pulled out and wiped clean regularly (especially in cold weather)

I could explain how this emulsion originates and why it builds up in the oil-fill tube... you can read all the gory details in the archives (look in the winter of 1999-2000)

roper2 · January 2004

bpebbles thanks a lot for the info.on this .I will clean it tomorrow and check out the 1999-2000 page. dennis

ferous · January 2004

My QC was built in 3/2000 and I have the same issue with the oil fill cap. I regularly check and wipe it out. You post that fill tube was replaced. I still have the original one. Was there a recall or TSB?

dustyk · January 2004

Yes, its water in the oil from moisture inside the engine. Short trip driving will cause this, especially in colder weather. I doubt that its build up from high humidity summer weather because of your mileage I suspect you get a fair amount of highway driving. The engine should purge the moisture out after being operated at normal temperatures for longer periods of time.

At last oil change I noticed a very slight frothy trace on the oil cap of my 2003 4.7, despite my short trip driving. I am using Mobil 1 0W-30, but I don't know if that's contributing to my experience.

At your mileage you might want to make sure that the PCV valve is clean and operating correctly. That can really cause a sludge problem.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · January 2004

(ferous) As you should be aware, a "recall" is only for SAFETY items.... which this is not.

There were at least 4 different TSBs for the oil-fill tube frothing up. None of these REPLACES the oil-fill tube.

At first, DC tried to squelch the problem with this TSB;
http://www.geocities.com/natedak2k/Oil_cond_TSB.jpg

*)DCs next attempt to address this problem was to replace the original oil cap (which was 'open' on the inside with one that was 'closed'. This new cap is enclosed when viewed from the underside.

*) Then, DC came out with the baffle that simply slides into the oil-fill tube. This baffle directs the fumes from the crankcase into the PCV valve (which is plugged into the side of the oil-fill tube) This baffle also tends to HIDE the bulk of the 'snot' that builds up. That is why I pull my baffle out and wipe it down at least twice a month during the winter. I usually saturate 2 paper towels with the stinky goo that builds up on the baffle and inside the oil-fill tube.

*) The next problem I had was the rubber o-ring on the second oil-fill cap started to 'decompose' and no longer sealed.... Another redesigned cap was installed, this one does not have a o-ring... it has a rubber 'flapper' that creates the seal.

dustyk · January 2004

Since the PCV valve is located just below the oil filler cap, the purge stream circulates all internal engine gases under the cap. During acceleration the manifold pressure drops reducing the air flow. During this period the non-moving air that contains moisture condenses on the bottom of the cap or in the upper area of the filler tube. That's why the froth collects in this area,

My 4.7 hasn't been bad compared to other vehicles I've owned, although my wife had a 2.5 Plymouth Acclaim that never exhibited this problem. Her '99 Toyota Avalon is about the worst I've seen in quite a while. My Chevies always exhibited this problem to various degrees. Even my '93 Sentra would produce a little during the winter months.

After the warmer weather comes in it should disappear completely unless the motor oil has collected too much moisture.

Dusty

roper2 · January 2004

When i got home today I pulled the insert and it was kinda messy.I used wd40 and paper towels and cleaned it and the pvc to.I have been running a 5/30 blend oil and have been thinking about going full syn.Today I changed it over to mobil1 10/30 and wix filter and that is what is going in from now on. I was thinking about doing 5000 mile oil @ filter changes .Would this be a good range for this engine? Thanks everyone for all the info. Dennis

mopar67 · January 2004

the plastic filler does not get hot enough to "boil off" the goo. I had the new cap and the baffle and it was still there, just "hidden" under the baffle.
From a design perspective, the tube should have been metal or for simpler usage, perhaps put the oil fill back on the valve cover like all mopar v-8's used to be. No foam or mess that way.

FWIW......once had a 95 Tarurs that a plastic exteneder tube above the plastic valve covers. Beginning in the fall up to spring, it was always full of goo.

bpeebles · January 2004

(roper2) Certainly changing to Mobil1 can be beneficial for your engine. DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT THE RECOMMENDED 5W30 VISCOSITY. The clearances within the 4.7L engine are designed for 5W30.

Changing every 5,000 miles would be fine. Changing any sooner would be wasting your money, time, and the environment.

As posted in these and other forums, the 4.7L engine has proven to be VERRYY reliable, dependable and long-lasting.

ronslakie · January 2004

roper2 - I have a 2K Dak and switched over to Mobil 1 at 7.5K miles. Since that time I have stayed at the 7.5K mile changes (currently at 50K miles) and also have used a Mobil 1 filter. The truck runs like a top. I would agree with bpeebles that you would be better off with 5W-30 Mobil 1. I have read some research papers that showed that Mobil 1 in controlled tests did not lose any of its lubrication efficiency at 18K miles. I would never go that far without a change but I do think that 7.5K miles between Mobil 1 changes is doable.

Ron

ronslakie · January 2004

While we are on the subject of oil caps I have a question. I have a 2K Dak with the 4.7 and have the new cap with baffle. This cap is extremely difficult to remove; the last 2 times I took it of I had to use a pipe wrench to get it off. I have tried silicone spray and then some white grease and it still is extremely difficult to remove. Has anyone else had this problem and are there any recommendations to make the cap removal process easier.

Thanbks,
Ron

dustyk · January 2004

First, I strongly support Bpeebles caution regarding the upward deviation from 5W-30. The 4.7 is a tighter than normal Detroit engine and increasing the viscosity at low temperatures might put lubrication at the margin of sufficient flow. Believe me, most lubrication mistakes effecting premature wear or longevity are made increasing viscosity, not reducing it.

Since my vehicle does not have the luxury of garage protection I use Mobil 1 0W-30 in the winter.

The oil cap on my 4.7 is harder than most to turn, but I've yet had a problem requiring a tool. It most certainly is not an item on a 4.7 that's going to fall off right away!

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · January 2004

(ronslakie) That was the sympton of the 1st revision of the oil-cap. (when the o-ring started to decompose and make the cap stick) Using silicone or some other lube will only prolong the agony.

I have the 3rd-generation oil-cap that replaces the o-ring with a 'flap' to make the seal. I have not encounterd any problems with this design cap for over 2.5 years.

You ask for suggestions.... get the latest-revision oil-cap with the 'flap' for a seal.

roper2 · January 2004

Lots of good information but the reason I picked 10/30 is I live in texas and the weather is mild to real hot summers.Would the 5/30 be ok year round and with medium towing? I guess the 10/30 is more for the big block engines.Just a guess. Next time I go buy again I will switch to 5/30 and stay with a wix filter.Thanks again Dennis

bpeebles · January 2004

(roper2) All motor oil starts as the LOWEST number and is 'modified' to behave like the upper number when it is hot.

5W30 is a 5-weight oil with viscosity modifiers
10W30 is a 10-weight oil with viscosity modifiers

It is more difficult to engineer a motor oil with a WIDER viscosity range. Thus, in general, 5W30 is technically superiour to 10W30.

It is a fact that most engine wear occours during warmup while the various metal parts are expanding at different rates and the lubrication is not up to temperture. This is when the "5W" is more important than the 10W.

It is ONLY the upper number that means anything once the engine is warmed up to operating temperture. A cheep oil will shear down under heavy use and end up as a single-grade oil. (close to its base viscosity as mentioned above)

The above is a simplification. You can get more details from the "engine oil bible" here;
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/

mopar67 · January 2004

but I have read good comments on redline and amsol oils too.

For filters I have for the past few years stayed with either WIX or Purulator.

I avoid, like the plague, filters found at discount stores and "big box" stores.

Why?

Because you get what you pay for! Sure wally world can offer "lowest price" but when you spend 20K or more for your truck, why penny pinch on a filter? Fram unfortunately, is now sold at wallyworld. And yes, they are cheap, about half price of a wix. But I have read far too many horror stories about this filter plus took apart a few myself to see if it was ax grinding on the part of the webmaster or was it indeed true just how poorly they are made.

Its true.

WIX filters, also available as NAPA gold, by contrast are sold at NAPA auto parts stores. And they are not sold based on being "price point" or "loss leader". Thus, there is little if any pressure on WIX to cut costs because NAPA is pushing for the lowest possible cost. That's wally world's job and the reason much of their merchandise is approaching that of big lots quality. This includes their automotive parts.

mtrialsm · January 2004

The dealer found a faulty ignition switch on my
'01 Quad. Fixed problem I noticed when I repositioned the steering wheel, my radio and turn
signals went off. Short in switch connection/wiring. Replaced switch, so far so good. Miles 35750, owned 35 months.
I still plan on keeping this truck 4 or 5 more years? I also have extended warr.
MM

mhall02 · January 2004

The real question here seems to be how often do you change the oil? If your filter is on your vehicle for 5,000+ miles, yeah I can see maybe gettting a 'higher quality' WIX filter, however, what about those us us that change every 3,000 miles? I have used the Fram oil filters for nearly 10 years and have not had a problem, however, I do change every 3,000 miles using Castrol GTX or Quaker State. First vehicle, '78 F-100, totaled at over 220,000 miles, using the Castrol and Motorcraft filter, ran great too much damage to mess with. Second vehicle, 1991 Dodge Shadow, used Fram PH-16 filter and QS oil, sold with over 180,000 miles on the clock and the second owner took it to over 200,000 miles. Third vehicle, 2000 Jeep Cherokee w/ 83,000 miles, Fram oil filter w/ QS oil, runs great, and the Final vehicle which put me on this board, 91 Dodge Dakota 124,000 miles Castrol GTX w/ Fram PH-16 filter. All vehicles ran/run great and never had sludging nor filter failure, however, changed oil every 3,000 miles. The longer you leave the oil in and the dirtier it gets, so this is what I would consider when selecting a oil filter.

Just my 2 cents worth.

hasel · January 2004

I spent 21 years working on fleet vehicles (Police Cars)we changed oil and filter every 3000 miles used Fram Filters never lost an Engine due to oil contamination.

dustyk · January 2004

Since the first of the year I've run across two high mileage Dakotas worth noting. A '97 extended cab with a 318, 216,000 miles. This engine was super quiet. I asked about repairs and he said that he had the intake manifold gasket problem, but everything else was untouched (except for ignition parts and filters). Said the transmission was "rebuilt" at 190K, but NEVER changed the fluid or the filter.

The other one had just turned 100K, but it's notable because this is the first 4.7 I know of to get this far. This owner hasn't touched a thing except for plugs. I think this was a '00 or '01. He is a line inspector for the local utility company.

Regards,
Dusty

bcarter3 · January 2004

I agree with Mike. My daily driver is an '89 Mitsubishi with over 223,000 miles. The engine has never been opened. The valve cover was off one time to change the seal. Fram filters and Quaker State oil with changes at 3,000 miles. I am using Mobil 1 with Purolator PureONE filters on my 01 Dak 4.7 and changing at 6,000 miles. The auto transmission on the Mitsubishi has never been opened either. The Service Manual for it does not give a service interval. Having been built in Japan it has a drain plug and I occasionally change the oil.

sunburn · January 2004

Well, my dealer finally got around to fixing my 02 4.7 QC's intermittent screeching following a cold start. I had to leave the truck at the dealer for 10 days. They finally determined that the fan clutch was the culprit. They replaced the water pump last fall, but the problem didn't go away. The problem has not occurred in the last 8 cold starts since the fan clutch was replaced.

I also pulled the oil filler tube baffle to check for "snot" the other day. There was only a thin film of emulsion on the baffle. It wasn't as bad as I was expecting it to be given the cold weather of the past month.

dustyk · February 2004

There were a few times in January when temperatures were -20 F or lower when I heard a faint sound similar to a belt squeal. It went away after about 10 minutes of driving.

Since the belts look like they're still in excellent shape, I wonder?

Was there somebody else in here that reported a fan clutch noise problem? I can't remember.

Regards,
Dusty

sunburn · February 2004

The noise I had sounded was a loud screech that sounded like a bad bearing, not the squeal that you would get with a bad belt. The dealer's technician applied some belt dressing while the noise was occurring, and it didn't change in frequency or intensity. At that point they suspected the fan clutch.

The noise was temperature and RPM dependent. It would usually go away after 2-3 miles of driving. The head tech at my dealer claimed to never hear anything like this from a fan clutch before.

bpeebles · February 2004

My 2000 Dak (4.7L) has done this every winter since new. In my case, it definately sounds as if the power-steering pump is moaning for about 10 seconds.

The steering is VERY stiff for several minutes too. If one does not concensensly wiggle the steering wheel back and forth for about 2 minutes before moving, there will be NO steering. (so stiff that a muscleman could not steer it)

Of course, we all know that DC changed over to using SYNTHETIC PS fluid in 2001. So many of you may not encounter this problem.

I am STRONGLY considering changing over to SYNTHETIC PS fluid this summer.

quadmeister · February 2004

my 2003 is not a cold weather friendly truck, synthetics or not, as I have discovered over the last month or so.
I couldn't believe how hard the steering was, and still is, on cold mornings or after it's been sitting for awhile. Also, sometimes (like when you forget to plug in the block heater or the power goes out for the night) the truck doesn't want to move without putting your foot halfway to the floor (at which point you still can't steer it easily... yikes). Feels like the brake is on, but it isn't.
The transmission takes what seems like forever (well, at least 20 minutes of highway driving, usually more) to reach that operating temperature where it will shift like it should, before it will shift up past 3rd gear (2800 rpm vs 1600 on the highway).
...and to be picky, the defrost location in the centre of the windshield wasn't the best idea either.

dustyk · February 2004

I haven't had the sensation of increased steering effort when cold on my 2003. When we had temps down to -30F my 545RFE took about 5-6 miles of driving before it went into the normal shift pattern with overdrive and lock-up. I don't warm it up before driving, either. I'd say that the temperature sensor in your transmission is faulty if it took that long.

As the the defroster air flow, yeah, I think I agree with you. Since my drive to work is only 5.5 miles (normally) my Dakota isn't driven long enough to purge moisture out of the cab. This is especially acute with my short trips and getting snow and slush on the carpets from getting in. This past weekend I put the most on the Dakota in one straight line since about the day before Christmas. With the heat on high for about 15 miles I think I lowered the moisture back to normal level...for a while.

Best regards,
Dusty

quadmeister · February 2004

ahhhh... a degree or two above freezing makes all the difference in the world. ;-)

The problem with doing repairs this time of year, with all the salt stuck to everything under there, I think I'd be asking for troubles down the road, opening things up. so... I'm keeping a list.

bpeebles · February 2004

Not to mention laying in a snowbank trying to work on your vehicle.... 8-(
I dont like getting frostbyte while changing the sparkplugs or replacing the brake pads.

Here in Vermont, we get at least 2 weeks of summer.... plenty of time to change the sparkplugs and brakepads. (only if one can stand the muskeetos and gnats)

quadmeister · February 2004

I usually use those same two weeks to go camping.

Unfortunately, I also usually get half way to where we're going camping when the brakes start grinding to remind me I was going to change the brake pads before the muskeetos and gnats got too bad... Not to mention before we set off on a road trip... but I tend to forget to do it then because I'm fishin'.

I work as a lineman, so I'm sort of immune to the frostbite... but that doesn't mean I want to spend my off hours laying in a snowbank...

dustyk · February 2004

>>>Here in Vermont, we get at least 2 weeks of summer.... plenty of time to change the sparkplugs and brakepads. (only if one can stand the muskeetos and gnats)<<<

That really made me laugh! Some people around here think summers are not much better.

Been to Vermont in the last few years. It really is a beautiful state. It's populated the way I like, too.

Bests,
Dusty

livnlrn · February 2004

Posting for a friend. His blower motor quit. No warning. Where is the fuse? Cab or under hood? Do you access it from under hood or under dash if you want to get to the motor? Says he can hear the dampers move to change positions but no motor. Since there isn't an off on the speed selector that would'nt be it right? Selector switch that can turn it off works. Any other ideas? He said beer could be involved if I help fix it so HELP ME! HAHAHAHA!
Thanks

dustyk · February 2004

Really need more information as to the year.

On '02-'04s the five ampere fuse for the heater blower fan in number nine (9) in the electrical junction block. The block is located on the side of the instrument panel, driver's side. It is easily removed by using a finger. If you cannot locate this, the owners manual has a diagram showing the location.

If the fuse is not the problem, it is most likely the blower fan resistor block that has failed. This is located in different areas depending on the year.

Good luck,
Dusty

bcarter3 · February 2004

Check to see if the blower will work on the highest speed setting. If it works then it is probably the fan resistor block. On later models of the Dak it is located on the blower case on the passenger side under the dash. Lots of these are failing on 2001 models.

vanhoag · February 2004

I'm hoping someone can help me with this problem. My husband has a 2001 dakota quad cab 4wd. He has had a problem with the 4 wheel drive not engaging since he got it (ordered the truck in 2001). When he switches to 4 high the green button flashes several times and then kicks back to 2wd. When truck was still under warranty, he took it to the dealership for this problem several times. It never happened to them, it always went into 4wd like it's supposed to. It will work for him once in a while but it's not consistent. Has anyone else had this problem? How can he fix it?

dustyk · February 2004

Vanhoag,

I need to know a couple of things. First, is this a automatic or manual transmission? Second, does the 4-wheel drive control switch on the instrument panel have a "AWD" position?

The little flashing green light is the mode selector indicator lamp, or correctly termed, an "LED" (light emitting diode).

A flashing LED indicates that there is some condition preventing the selection. There are a host of conditions, but the paragraph below from the Dakota service manual might be helpfull:

"A flashing operating mode LED for the desired gear indicates that a shift to that position has been requested, but all of the driver controllable conditions HAVE NOT been met. This is an attempt to notify the driver that the transmission needs to be put into neutral, the vehicle speeed is too great, or some other condition outllined elsewhere is not met."

I can give you a few more specifics, but I need you to answer the two previous questions.

Best regards,
Dusty

ronslakie · February 2004

I have a 2K Dak 4x4, 4.7 5 speed. About 3 months ago I changed the rear differential fluid using RedLine 75W-90 (for LSD). Since everything went so well I am now going to do the front differential, manual transmission and transfer case. I know this has been discussed here before but before I purchase the new RedLine products I wanted to verfy that I have the right ones. For the front differential I am planning on using RedLine 75W-90NS; for the manual transmission RedLine MTL and for the transfer case Redline C+. Can anyone verify that I have the right products lined up.

Thanks,
Ron

vanhoag · February 2004

Dusty,
His Dakota has a manual transmission and it does not have an AWD position - 4 high and 4 low. He also noticed that it seems to happen more in damp or wet conditions. I hope you have an idea what the problem might be.
Thanks,
Vanessa

bpeebles · February 2004

(ronslakie) I too have a 2K Dakota. I sent eMail to Redline and here is their response. (RedLine product in parens)

NV3500 5sp manual tranny (MTL)
NV231 Xfer case (D4ATF)
9.25 rear Diff. with LSD (75W90)
C205F front Diff. (75W90)

It appears that you are looking at the wrong Xfer case fluid. Keep in mind that the RedLine (NS)products DO NOT CONTAIN the LSD additive and should not be used unless LSD additive is SPECIFICALLY not needed.

You should be pleased with the shift-quality that the MTL gives you. It is especially engineered to improve the shifting by carefully controling the way the sychronizers behave between shifts.

crawdaddy · February 2004

I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 4x4 with the 3.9L V6 automatic. I am getting around 10mpg around town, and around 15 on the highway! My dealer says it needs broke in to around 8000 miles, I don't believe that! Has anyone experienced the same horrible gas milage?

ferous · February 2004

The 3.9 V6 is an old engine design. You haven't given us enough information to determine if your current mileage reflects the conditions you are driving in. Cold temp - lower mileage, heavy right foot - lower mileage, how many miles on the highway vs city streets, hills, no hills, etc. I know I saw a jump in my mileage after 7,000 miles so your dealer has a valid point about the break in time.

mhall02 · February 2004

I didn't buy my Dakota new, hoever, I did buy my 2000 Jeep Cherokee new with the 4.0 inline six and it got better milage after 7-8000 miles. What does the sticker say the milage is supposed to be? My '91 2-wheel drive 5-speed 3.9 V-6 Dakota gets about the same as my 4 wheel drive, automatic 4.0 I-6 Cherokee. The Dakota maybe a little worse (i.e. 13-16 mpg city, 19 or once in a while 20 mpg (best) highway).

dustyk · February 2004

You have the NV233 Part-time transfer case.

The flashing LED is an indicator that the operator has not performed a prerequisite operation. There are several operator conditions that must met with your version before 4-wheel drive can be engaged:

*The clutch must be depressed for at least 500 milliseconds.

*The vehicle speed must be 3 MPH or less.

*Front and rear wheel speeds must be within 13 MPH.

Now, if the above conditions are being met, then there are one (or more) of several signals missing to the Power Control Module (computer). Since you say that it appears to be a more prominent problem in damp or colder weather, my first suspect would be a bad connection in a number of the switch and control circuits involving the transfer case.

A dealer or some auto parts retailers (AutoZone, etc.) offers a service to connect a diagnostic tool to your vehicles electrical system and retrieve any codes. This might be helpful is locating the problem.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · February 2004

I've been noticing over the past couple of weeks that when I apply light to moderate pressure to the brake pedal, it pulsates slightly. I feels that it is probably about 1 pulse per wheel revolution. Is this an indicator of warped rotors? My 02 QC is approching 39K miles.

dustyk · February 2004

Sunburn.............

Well, at 39K that's not too bad. But I wonder if you are getting the around-town scuzz build-up. Since most of my weekly miles are back-and-forth to work and short trip stuff, I notice that on the weekends I get a little pulsing sensation. This goes away as soon as I get on the highway for a bit or really slam on the brakes.

In my case the rotors are getting built-up with rust, usually providing an outline of where the pads rested on the rotor surface overnight. This symptom hasn't appeared in the warm months, just during this winter.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · February 2004

Crawdaddy, your's is a fairly common complaint with 3.9 V6 owners, although I know some that report better results. The fact that the temperature has dropped and you have four-wheel drive puts you on the low side of normal, I think, but not unreasonable. The 10 city-type driving is about as low as I ever heard from any 3.9 owner.

The folks I know with 2-wheel drives Dakotas are getting from 15-17 mixed driving through the month of January in Western New York state. We've had an exceptionally cold January, with one solid week of -20 and lower. Just to give you a point of reference, guys with the small V6 in the Ford Ranger (3.0 liter?) complain about the same thing.

The comments about break-in match my experience as well. Eight-thousand or more before break-in is not far fetched for a Mopar engine. The 4.7 engine seems to be even longer.

Of course, driver technique is largely responsible for differences in fuel consumption. When you get to warmer temperatures take a two-way measurement on some kind of distance driving where you can keep it at a steady 60-65, preferrably using cruise control. You should be at least 17 MPG, even with 4-wheel drive.

Best of luck,
Dusty

2nddak · February 2004

The cold Buffalo winters and her boss have finally gotten to my wife. We are moving to Jacksonville in April.

I've been using a great light weight residential plow made by Snow Bear to plow our 300' driveway for the last three years. Home Depot and BJ's carries them. It attaches and detaches in 60 seconds and installs on the truck in an hour. I'm not anticipating a lot of use for it in Jacksonville, other than plowing out the sand that blows up from the beach in our drive. If anyone within driving distance thinks they could use it more drop me a line.

I guess the the new Yokahama AT's I put on it last fall will have to struggle on the beach rather than the snow.

boilermaker52 · February 2004

Hey, have a 2000 qc, 4.7L 4x4, with a remote starter. Check engine light came on for the first time in 3 years. Bought a diagnostic kit and it pumped out this code. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks,

JB

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions