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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Best way I have found to clean fuel injectors, and carbon in various other locations, is an Italian tune up - it works wonders on my XJ-S and should work on most things. Combine it with a tank of the 'superclean' style gasolines and you should be fine.

    TSB is a heads up for the dealers of a potential problem, so yes they are aware - but take a copy anyway. They will probably try and convince you that your problem is unrelated, but bottom line is that a TSB is designed to fix a problem that was caused by a design / build weakness and you are entitled to get it fixed.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    OK, I admit My good old American Muscle may not be as sophisticated as your Euro imports, But have to admit this "Italian Tune-up" has me scratching my my head. Marinara suace in the tank... garlic bread air filter...spagetti plug wires (OK,that I've seen), I'm just confused. Please define.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    High rpm, high load for reasonable distance.

    In practice it means running the truck at 4500+ revs in 3rd or (maybe) 4th for 4 or 5 miles, or kicking the automatic into 2 from drive for the same distance. Gets the engine's juices flowing and cleans the crud. You can really see the difference in the exhaust of the XJ-S really kicks out some soot, I suspect it may be because the cylinders are fairly small (12 cyl / 5.3L) but the effect works on anything to a greater or lesser extent.

    Note - it has to be under load, sitting in neutral on your driveway won't do it.

    Spaghetti wires - oh yes - Lucas electrics :-)
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    Know the method, the term is new. the old Six-Packs and dual quads have the same problem with "gunk" build-up (yes, that is a technical term), and need the secondary linkages tested once in awhile.
  • carls5carls5 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for the input. I will look into what the local gas stations have to offer.

    I appreciate your response.
    Carl
  • bsparxbsparx Member Posts: 84
    A couple weeks ago I posted about my dealer looking at my QC before ordering parts for a recall which didn't seem to need any parts.

    "Parts" came in, took it in yesterday. They claim that some trans vent hoses are fine, some need the hose shortened, and some need it replaced - mine was in the 3rd category. I guess they fixed it; the service writer didn't know where it was, and the tech was already gone when I picked it up...

    I also had it in for the 'Wheel Grind TSB'. This was my 4th visit for this one - yes if I want to be a real problem I'm into lemon territory. They replaced right front diff axle bearing and seal "to correct noise (N/C)". But its still making the same noise. The boots on both ends of the right front axle have no fingerprints on them at all. What do I think happened? I'll leave it to your imagination...

    But the question now: Do I spend time trying another dealer? Do I go to DC Corporate? Do I tell the dealer I'm returning it? I love the truck, this is my only complaint. There is a legitimate TSB on the problem, and I think any decent service dept. should be able to fix it, Negherbon Dodge in Oakland, CA just dosen't seem to have a decent service dept. Advice would be most appreciated...sorry for the long post, but hopefully we can all learn something about dealing with uncooperative / ignorant service departments.
    Thanks

    Ben
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you are suggesting that they only CLAIMED to replace the bearing. (But did not), this is pretty serious.

    They may not be cheating YOU but could be billing DC for warantee work not preformed. HOWEVER, I know that DC mandates that all parts replaced under warantee must be RETURNED to DC. (DC knows there are cheaters out there too!)

    BOTTOM LINE... your problem is not solved...keep the pressure on them.
  • fburlbawfburlbaw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ram 2500 that Bledsoe dodge in Dallas TX worked on a couple of years ago. My complaint was auto shifter linkage would jump from drive to neutral on bumpy roads (railroad tracks). Dealer charged DC warranty to remove/rebuild/replace transmission. I looked under truck and all bolts on tranny and crossmembers had never had a wrench on them. Took it back to dealer and made service manager put it up on rack and look at it. He admitted that the work had not been done on the truck and that he would check on it. No response for several days and when I called back he said that there had to have been a paperwork mistake and they had done the work on another truck.
    I called the zone office and made a complaint and several weeks later I got a call back from the dealer. He said "I thought that we had the problem resolved." How do you like that!!! The zone office just referred it back to the dealer.
    No wonder trucks cost so much.
    This one really makes my blood boil. I've been lurking for months, but had to respond to this one.
    This is not sour grapes as I own a 93 Dakota club cab 4x4, 318 ci with 176,000 miles and a 2000 Dak. Quad 4x4, 4.7/auto.
    I STAY AWAY from Bledsoe Dodge tho'
  • cowtownaggiecowtownaggie Member Posts: 39
    One of the best fuel injector cleaners that I have see was refered to me by a trucker (owner / operator.) He said a lot of the truckers used a fuel injector cleaner made by Lucas.
    http://www.lucasoil.com/Product_Information/info10003.htm

    Home Page: http://www.lucasoil.com
    You can get it at truck stops, Hi-Lo auto parts, Oreilley, and Carquest. It is hard to find but at $7.00 per quart, it lasts a long time!

    My results in the last 5 yrs w/ Lucas:
    92 van w/ Fuel injected 318 154K miles
    95 dodge diesel truck 220K
    95 dodge diesel 100K miles
    87 toyota corrola - carburator 240k miles
    00 quad cab w/4.7 11.5k miles

    None of these vehicles have had an injector cleaned yet. The toyo will be going in for carb adjustments in the next two weeks, but it is for other reasons.

    I use 1 oz lucas for every 2 gals of fuel (gas or diesel) i.e.: 24 gal tank = 12 oz lucas. I do this whenever I see problems or sometimes every 4th or 5th tank so a quart of cleaner lasts a long time.

    I have used fuel from oilfield locations & farm storage tanks with no problems that Lucas could not clear up.

    Sorry for the long post - just wanted to give as much detail as I could. I really think Lucas is worth the money vs 200 - 250 for injector cleanings.

    PDS
  • gsagnewgsagnew Member Posts: 10
    Just called knolwledgeable Sales Manager at 5 star dealership. Found out that recalls are mandated by the Feds. This particular recall pertains to a bent or pinched vent tube that affrects only certain vehicles that used certain parts from a certain vendor and manufactured during specific dates. The skinny?????....if you do not receive an official recall notice, don't worry, it does not apply to you.
  • gsagnewgsagnew Member Posts: 10
    Some of you have mentioned experincing a popping sound under the front of you vehicle at times when the frame flexes or going over bumps. There was a TSB about this (service bulletin#130100)

    Checked with a very knowledgeable and up to date Service Manager who was very familiar with this issue. I was advised that the problem addressed in the TSB #130100 affects vehicles with "torsion" bar suspensions, ie; mostly 4WD vehicles. 2WD Dakotas for the most part are not affected since they do not have "torsion" bars. They have front stabilizer bar and coil spring suspensions and therefore do not have the problem with the torsion bar not being seated all the forward in the a-arm etc.
  • carls5carls5 Member Posts: 62
    (cowtownaggie) Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at the web page.
    Carl
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    Yep, I had it happen to me at about 10k (now have 28k) on my 00 4.7/auto/2wd/3.55/HD cooling package - the damned thing ran all night and the relay (under the hood on the driver's side) was so hot I had to pull it using some pliers. Took the relay in (didn't want the local monkeys working on it) and they handed me one over the counter. Took it to the truck and noticed all the relays were the same #. Anyway, changed it out & no luck. My fan motor had already fried itself. Must've been a bad batch of fans or something. O:-)

    Course I let the thing idle a 'bit' out in the W TX heat once in a while (110 degrees) - with the A/C running. Can't blame D/C for that one, eh? ;-)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sorry to hear about your Fan woes. Here in VT my electric fan only runs a couple times a year.

    You bring up a good point I am not sure you realize.... DC is using ISO (International Standards Organization) relays in the Dakota.
    These relays meet strict standards and cost a bit more than "auto grade" relays. This also hints towards the quality that DC is trying to achieve.
    Even the connectors in the electrical system are above-average quality. (For an automobile)


    I have been working in the computer industry supporting 2 Million dollar computer systems at the WORLDS premere semiconductor FAB for 19 years. ... I KNOW quality when it comes to electronics.
  • kwanderikwanderi Member Posts: 33
    I too have the "00 4.7/auto/2wd/3.55/HD cooling package" combo and have not had a problem yet with 12K miles. The temp were 110 up to a max of 118 this summer in Phoenix so you can be sure my air was on a lot too.

    Mine was made the end of February, how bout yours?
  • ricks12ricks12 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the information. So far, fan problem hasn't returned but now I know what to look for.
    Ricks12
  • knkresortknkresort Member Posts: 79
    Bruce,

    You must work at Big Blue, in Essex Junction? Intel, in Oregon, would give you grief over the "premier fab," they have a few out there that are pretty top notch....

    KnK
  • jam12jam12 Member Posts: 4
    I just tuned in to this site and read about bassman43 problems back in post 144. I own a 98 dakota 4wd with 3.9 liter. The rear end shook real bad when braking. It would litterly jump off the ground. The dealer could never duplicate the problem. He even turned the front rotors when I told him it was the rear brakes. I then told them to check the parking break cable for sticking, they still couldn't find anything. I took the service manager out for a drive the next day after having driven the vehicle from home to the dealership. I had put the parking break on at home and released as usual before driving. We went about two blocks and I applied the breaks and he got the full shaking treatment. It took three visits but they finally found a sticking rear break cable that was causing the rear drums to overheat. I don't know if this your problem but it sounds just like mine. Sorry for the late reply.

    JAM
  • myersedmyersed Member Posts: 102
    Back in June I noted that my MPG dropped from approx 18.5 to 17.5 MPG. I continue to track and chart every gallon of gas and; religiously use the same station and pump. This 5% reduction is very obvious, when you look at my chart. Initially, I began to think something was starting to fail. This reduced MPG remained well over the next 3 months, into September.

    Miraculously, my last 3 tanks have averaged 18.5MPG with ABSOLOUTLY NO CHANGE in my driving pattern over the last 6 months!

    How is this possible?
    1) Could the "extremely hot" mid-summer AC usage put a 5% efficiency drain on this 4.7 V8 engine?;
    2) Would one expect to see increased internal drag on the engine in these hot "dog days" of summer;
    3) Would hot humid air cause this efficiency loss?, or;
    4) Is there something changed in the fuel manufacturing process during the entire summer period?

    Any thoughts?
    Ed
  • stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    Myersed, On my 00 QC 4.7 auto 3.55 lsd truck I have averaged 16 to 17.5 mpg most of the last 5 months. It now has 5400 miles on it and I felt that AC did bring it down some as I would check it with the computer on the same route every day. Now has fallen off some due to colder weather, but strong wind and higher mph will really make a difference. My work trips are same road 13 miles each way, so not much variation. On a 900 mile trip this summer it did 17 to once 19.3, but havn't seen that high since. Nick
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Well, about 2 weeks after getting my truck fixed for the Canadian emissions recall, I get another letter from DC. This time more of you can expect to get letters. Whilst the letter is addressed to 'DaimlerChrysler Canada Vehicle Owner' the problem will also apply to US vehicles.

    The recall applies to 2000 4x4 Dakotas / Durangos and is described as "The front axle pinion nose bracket bolts .... may loosen after an extended period of time. Loose pinion nose bracket bolts can cause the left and right axle attaching brackets to break off, leaving the axle supported only by the axle shafts. This may also cause front axle and / or propeller shaft damage."

    Oops!!!

    The repair is top replace the bolts (1/2 hour job).

    I guess that some problems are to be expected on new pieces (the 4x4 axle was new for 2000), but this seems like a fairly fundamental thing to get right.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    drop truck of wedsday to have front end aligned under warrenty only 300 miles drifts right. called to ck on it while at work service manager adv they sent it across street to tire shop for alignment.he says very few dealer do there own alignments anymore although they have a rack? call again later he adv now truck pulls left says they will do alignment themselves.( i think old saying if u want a job done right u gotta do it yourself and i told this to him) he smiles.... anyway long story short teck spends 2 hrs on truck still can't align properly come to find out dakota requires a special tol according to the service manager that attaches to arm to adjust camber and toe. they don't have tool( some dealer hah) i left truck last night he says they will try to locate tool at another dealer and borrow to finish my truck. anyone else run into a similar situation or hear of such a special tool thats req. isn't the suspension the same in the front on the reg/clubcab models as well as the durango all 4x2? the suspension
  • jyenravjyenrav Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1999 dakota 4x2 and the front tires needed to be replaced So i brought it to Town Fair Tire and I had them put new ones on and have it Balanced and alligned. Well Town Fair did it within an hour and I havent had any pulling or pushing problems. That kinda scares me that Town Fair Tire as the tool and a Dodge Dealer doesn't.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    just got off the phone with service manager he says they usually only do front wheel drive cars on site and send out all trucks cause their lift isnot big enough for the trucks i say b/s truck looked fine to me ..any way found local private shop called the alignment factory all they do is alignments one man shop by appt only he says no problem tech at dodge doesnot know what hes doing tool is not required but helpful. i'll make appt for fri 8am i'll post outcome.dodge dealer agreed to comp me if i send bill i will get that i writing :)..$59.95.... LESSON LEARNED:BEFORE THEY TEAR INTO YOUR TRUCK FOR A ALIGNMENT MAKE SURE THEY HAVE TOOLS AND TECH HAS EXP NESSARY TO COMPLETE JOB AND IF AT DEALER VERIFY IF ALIGNMENT IS BEING DONE IN HOUSE OR BEING SUBCONTRACTED OUT.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    i can't believe the dealer would sub work out like that with out adv customer and most of all not have proper tools req to fix a dodge! i'll ck the sign on way out the drive way again to make sure i was at right place............................................................................................... tire marks i'm out of here!
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    While I agree that dealing with the shops can be fustrating at times, you should also consider their problems too. Many dealerships are farming out specialty work like alignments and body/paint. There are several reasons, but formost is the low volume of work and the skill level needed. It is getting harder to find good mechanics because all kids want to be computer techs, not mechanics and machinists. As the cars get more complex, more and more of the nuts and bolts mechanics are going to be lost. Add the fact that the diagnostic equipment is going to be more expensive, you may find going to the doctor easier and cheaper. Imagine HMOs for your truck.
  • ron35ron35 Member Posts: 134
    I have a 10 month old 2000 Dak with 4.7 and 5 speed. I noticed last winter that when I had the heater on with the temperature control set to max that the air coming out of the heater was warm but never got really hot. I have had enough new cars over the years to know the difference. My local 5 star could not find anything wrong. Has anyone else had this problem or heard of it.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    the end result of the previsous post #286 & 290 . had alignment done at a private shop took less then 30 min and i was out the door! .... funny sat morning i got a call from dealership cust serv wanting to know how my service was. i told them to call me monday eve as i'm running out the door,and i have to much to say... also same day i got a survey from dc wanting to know how my sales exp went. filled that baby out also and included a few coments about service dept exp.will also be sending letter to g.m of dealership.... re: taking a dodge to a dodge dealership and they don't have the right tools, nor a properly trained tech to complete an alignment? that is totally unacceptable!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (andy_jordan) ref #285 above

    I happened to be taking my 2000 Dak in to the dealer today and I asked about a "upcoming recall that deals with the front wheels breaking off"

    The service manager calmly poked at the keyboard, pulled a stack of about 5 sheets of paper from the printer and wrote RECALL #889 on the work order.

    BTW... my Passengers-side steering rack boot is "coming apart" and is being replaced under warantee. The boot looks like a cat sharpened its claws on it and ripped lots of little holes in it.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    That's the one. My recall notice specifically states "Campaign #889". I guess campaign sounds better than recall!
  • gbilhimergbilhimer Member Posts: 53
    OK I had my door locks go crazy a couple of months ago and I thought they were fixed.
    At that thime they replaced a Timer Control Module under the dash I believe. I washed my truck last night and now the problem is back!
    It seems to me that there must be some wiring connection getting wet. Has anybody else had this fixed and can you steer me in the right place to look before I head off to the dealer again?
    Other than this I have had no problems with my truck at all.

    2000 QC Sport 4.7 auto, power overhead conv. factory alarm 12,000 miles so far
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    My dealer knows that I have been concerned about the gunk that collects in the oil-fill tube of the 4.7L V8 hemi. I have been asking about it since last winter. (Cold wether exzaggerates the problem)

    Today, he pulled out the "secret binder" and showed me a new twist on this. There is officially a TSB that has two part numbers to order.

    NEW OIL CAP ===>53032389AC
    BAFFLE=========>53032126AA

    I already have the new oil cap but the BAFFLE is new to me. The way he described it, the oil-fill assy. is replaced with a unit that is better insulated from the cold air from the fan.

    My BAFFLE is on order...
  • kingquad1kingquad1 Member Posts: 37
    just noticed that popping sound on the passenger side floor.you mentioned service bulletin #130100.
    Is there something being replaced or is DC just acknowledging it?
    So far I have 7200 miles. best truck I EVER owned!
    best mileage so far is almost 17 mpg on highway and usually around the high 14's city. LEAD FOOT!
    I recently changed oil (6 qts) od Mobil 1 with a mobil filter. I can't see much of an mileage improvement at this point.
    I would like to thank everyone in this forum for the valuable information that you are providing.
    this service manual that is constantly being mentioned, where can I get one? Thru DC or other?
    thanks again to all
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    "this service manual that is constantly being
    mentioned, where can I get one? Thru DC or other?"
    Look in the back of your owners manual. There should be ordering information. It is supplied by Helm. Inc, think the price was just over$100 with shipping when I got mine for the 2000 Quad. I thought I'd seen somewhere if you order for a 2001 you get a 2000 book with supplements for the 2001. Rick
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    Yes, if you order a manual now for a 2001, you'll get the 2000 FSM and a supplement to update you on the changes. It also includes some diagnostic knick-nacks with trouble codes and such. Fully-bound FSMs are expected on Oct. 24th at the 800 number in your owner's manual (don't have it handy). Just don't call till after 9am, so I can get in line first....
  • waynesanwaynesan Member Posts: 24
    Regarding the 2001 CC 4x4, P.151 states that tire chains are not allowed on 4x4 vehicles equipped with P265/70R16 tires. Is there not enough clearance because they went to 16" wheels?
    Also, on P.200, regarding rear axle fluid levels,
    would the above truck have the 8 1/4" or the 9 1/4" axle? Thanks for your thoughts.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    I was performing my first oil change and was just looking under the truck in general. There was a sticker label around my rear axle showing 3.55 Limited Slip and it said 9.25. I would assume this is the 9/4" axle, but I don't know if that means all 3.55 LSD (4x4s) are 9.25. I guess if your truck hasn't been through the weather too much it would be a good idea to see if your label is still readable.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is much easier than that to tell. The 9.25 has 12 bolts around the perimitor of the 'pumpkin'.
    The 8.25 has less (I think 10 bolts.)

    The original question about WHICH VEHICLES got the 8.25 or 9.25 installed is a good question.
    Perhaps the 9.25 is on ALL 4x4s and the 8.25 is on the 2wd?
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    "Perhaps the 9.25 is on ALL 4x4s and the 8.25 is
    on the 2wd?"
    I've got the 4.7 5spd 2wd and have the 3.55 9-1/4
    LSD, so much for that theory. My previous 93CC 5.2 auto had the 3.55 8-3/8 LSD. Rick
  • waynesanwaynesan Member Posts: 24
    I climbed down under and spotted that sticker you mentioned: "9.25 N-TRK, 3.55 TRAC-LOCK," so it must be a 9 1/4" axle. I'll also count the bolts next time. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of yanking off the sticker, since it looked kind off loose, which then exposed the bare metal underneath. I'm thihinking of spraying the bare metal with black "Rust-Oleum" unless anyone knows of a better product. Thanks all.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (waynesan)
    My stickers fell off months ago...However there is
    a more robust metal tag under one of the Diff.
    bolts that has the same info.size

    (iowabigguy)
    OK... so it is NOT 2WD -vs- 4WD


    QUESTION:
    Does ANYONE have a 10-bolt rear end on their dak?
  • 96g1196g11 Member Posts: 88
    According to D.C. ALL V8 Dakotas are supposed to have the 9.25/12 bolt rear. According to a friend on the (inside), for a short run they ran out of 9.25 rears and put some of the smaller 10 bolt units in a limited number of trucks if not ordered with a limited slip. If anyone has a 10 bolt diff. in a v8 Dakota it should be rare.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    I saw those metal tags, but didn't know what they were for, so ignored them. Good to know they are identifiers. You're a great asset to this board.
  • waynesanwaynesan Member Posts: 24
    Does anyone know where Dodge states the weight capacity of Dakota truck tailgates? I plan to load
    a 350 pound motorcycle onto my truck and want to know whether I can ride it up (another 200 lbs)or must walk it up, or even unhook the tailgate and place the ramp on the truck bed itself. Are the tailgates internally reinforced with metal or just hollow sheetmetal? Your comments would be appreciated.
  • gbilhimergbilhimer Member Posts: 53
    I have a 2000 Quadcab and carry motorcycles all the time, thats what I bought the truck for.
    I do not however ride my bikes into the truck bed, I walk along side of it while loading.
    I have carried 2 dirtbikes ( a KDX and a KTM )
    on weekend riding trips with lots of gear and no problems at all. I also have ridden an atv into the back of the truck with out trouble.
    I have a bed extender that I use with the tailgate down. I would suspect that the gate will hold you and the bike no problem as long as the bike is reasonable size ( not a GoldWing or something!!) I have a Line-X spray-in bedliner which may help stiffen the bed somewhat.
  • bsparxbsparx Member Posts: 84
    A couple of weeks ago my quad was hit on the rear bumper by a flatbed which took a turn too tight. I was parked on a corner. Bent the rear bumper, tiny ding in the rear corner paint (1" x 1"). Took it to 2 reputable body shops whose computers showed a replacement bumper at $510 and $595. Another $37 or so for mounting brackets. The lower total estimate was $1475.69.
    I bought a bumper today at the Levan Group in Oakland, CA, chrome, with step and plastic top, looks perfect, includes brackets,tax, etc..$187.11! I'll pull off the old one, do the touch up myself, put the new bumper on, and save almost $1200! The reason for posting this: Levan is online - www.levan.carshopnet.com
    It really pays to check around.

    Not crying anymore. How many beers do you guys estimate this job at?

    Ben
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Ben, this is a special case. It's not only the flat rate time involved, it's that you have an extra $1,200.00 to work with. That translates to a lot of beer, or a small amount of gasoline. Have fun and "all's well that ends well."

    Bookitty
  • 99slt99slt Member Posts: 14
    Just a heads up to all:
    I started hearing a metal to metal sound (rattle) under my 99 slt dakota. It has 27k miles. I am thinking engine or transmission. I took it in to a dealer and he tells me that it is the catalytic converter. The carbon honeycone interior of the converter apparently has been braking down on the 99 and some 00 models. Anyway they ordered a new one and replaced it last week. The converter has a federally mandated 8yr/80k mile warrantee, so it was a free fix.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That federally mandated 8yr/80k mile warrantee applies to ALL emmisions-control equipment. It useed to be 5/50 and will shortly be upped to 10/100.

    As vehicles start to last longer... the feds are trying to ensure that the emmisions are controlled that long as well.
  • newquadnewquad Member Posts: 33
    Sorry Ben for the late post, but just read your experience. I go to Smith Dodge in Richmond, and have had very good service. You may want to consider them as well.
This discussion has been closed.