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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    I understand your frustration---I had the same problem with my stereo, whenever it got hot outside the display would flash like it was trying to reset itself---long story short, I had to buy a new stereo.
  • cblack1cblack1 Member Posts: 6
    crap.
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Well, I thought I'd give this forum a shot,but it looks like I'm on my own on this one :(
  • cblack1cblack1 Member Posts: 6
    give the mechanics a few days to respond. Don't give up!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Hose-routing is often posted on a sticker under the hood. There is no way anyone can tell you where this hose goes, you did not give us ANY information that would even begin to help us. (Mode year, engine code, where other end of hos IS plugged into.)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    What could be the problems? IAC motor. (IdleAirControl), Vacuum leak, AC clutch, MAP sensor (ManifoldAbsolutePressure)... etc

    and is it something I can fix on my own? Clean the throttlebody and all components in it. Also check for vacuum-leaks.

    If you provide more info. (Model year, engine code, does this happen with AC on/off, engine hot/cold...etc) we may be able to provide more specific help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    [quote]
    I tell you, I have had nothing but problems with this vehicle since I bought it brand new [endquote]

    You sound frustrated, but saying somthing like this 4 YEARS after buying is just plain boneheaded. If you did not complain loudly and have all issues fixed while under warantee, that is YOUR OWN FAULT. Complaining at this point may do little more than make you feel better.

    You did not say WHICH factory radio you have installed.... but in any case, you may find that simply stopping by Best Buy (or whever) and selecting a different radio for them to install would be the best solution. You would end up with a BETTER radio than most factory radios.

    A less-expensive option may be to stop by a scrapyard and purchase an identical replacement... then install it yourself.
  • cplcpl Member Posts: 2
    I just got an estimate from a local shop to do a Fuel Pump change for almost $600.00.

    Obviously, I'm quite inclined to figure it out myself now but before I jump into it can anybody offer some simple "how-to's" and definitely "don't-do's"? I will also be picking up a Haynes book to help me through it as well.

    -Colin
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Are you refering to the panel that covers the lower portion of the steering column?

    According to the '03 manual you must remove the inside hood release (two screws) and parking brake (two screws) handles. The service manual indicates that the 16-pin data connector must also be removed.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

    921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

    999 = An error has been discovered.

    You may ignore the 999. The test will display this code anytime the system logs a fault.

    You either have a wiring problem, lost the PCM program, or the PCM is defective.

    You can try this. Disconnect the battery for two minutes, reconnect and try to start the vehicle. This may cause the PCM to reset itself to the learn mode, but you may still have a PCM problem. It may have to be reflashed by your dealer.

    Just for grins, do you still have the original battery?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm.

    The 'Service 4WD' indicator lamp is illuminated anytime a fault in the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) is declared OR if the instrument cluster has NOT received any messages from the TCCM after six (6) seconds.

    If the transfer case is working properly and no code can be pulled with a DRB3 scan tool, I suspect you might have a bad instrument cluster board.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cplcpl Member Posts: 2
    Sorry all. Year on the above Dodge Dakota (Fuel Pump issue) should be 1998, not '89.

    -CL
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    Thanks, Dusty - I appreciate the help!....No I do not have the original battery, I replaced it about 3-4 weeks ago. The battery went bad not to long after I began experiencing problems with the stereo. I am beginning to wonder if all of this may be related?

    Thanks again,
    Seth
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Sorry, all the info. about my 1997 Dakota with the 3.9L 6cyl was in earlier postings. I have no idea where the hose came from. I've looked at the manual and the routing decal. I'm thinking about taking my truck to a Dodge Dealer for diagnostics. I performed the test on my crankshaft positioning sensor which failed. A Mechanic that I spoke with said that the voltage during the test should always change from 0-5 volts. Mine would go 0-5, 0-1.5, 0-2, 0-5. He said that was not good. So $100.00 and a lot of work later my truck still runs like crap. It still idles really ruff after it warms up for about 15 minutes,it still has no power at times, and it still backfires up through the throttle body. The hose was just part of an ongoing post of problems. Thanks for responding though.
    :confuse
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If you still had the original battery in the vehicle I'd say there was a good chance that it was related. But I'm thinking you now have a PCM problem.

    Weak batteries or those that are on the threshold of dying give some really strange symptoms on Chrysler products. A few weeks ago a friend told me of a RAM that had been plaqued with a intermittent radio display for about two months. During this time everything else electrical worked fine and there were no starting problems. Then suddenly the door chime started going off for no reason one day while driving. When the engine was shut off a few miles later the battery was completely dead. A new battery fixed it. That was 13 months ago and the radio display has worked fine since.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    I actually replaced the battery before I put a new stereo in. After I put in the new battery it did fix the stereo situation for a couple of days, then it went out again. I then just replaced the stereo with an after-market stereo. I did do some checking on the internet during all of this and found this to be a fairly common problem with Chrysler stereo's.

    Where did you find the 920 & 921 codes? I called around and no one could give me any answers.

    Thanks again for your help..I am going to check the PCM out tomorrow. I'll post the results in case there is someone else out there with a similar situation.

    Seth
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Others may have had a problem with Chrysler radios, but I have heard of no problems in the Dakota.

    The instrument cluster codes are published in Section 8 of the Dodge Dakota factory service manual.

    Yes, please get back to us on the resolution to your problem.

    Good luck.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • cnegleycnegley Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the help Dusty,

    When my 2wdr Quad Cab Dakota had 700 miles on it, the service 4wdr light came on and the dealer "reset the the instrument cluster per S.T.A.R." Do you know what S.T.A.R.is? Now it has come on again at 93,000 miles but the dealer is telling me that there is a service bulletin number 08-032-00 telling them to replace the HVAC Control Assembly (over $300.00 parts and labor) to turn the light off. Does this sound right to you?
    Carl
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No. Not to me, but I've heard of stranger things being true.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dakotaman1dakotaman1 Member Posts: 14
    Hi Dusty (or whomever),

    I just called Dodge Service (maybe should have long ago) on the matter of P-codes from the '97 Dakota. It is not - I repeat NOT - possible to get P-codes to display in the odometer using any ignition procedure !!!!!! They must be read out using an OBD reader.

    Along that line, I've discovered a couple avenues:

    1) Buy an interface (~$99) which, with a serial port on a PC and free software, allows one to see the same amazing diagnostics that the "inspection pros" see. Hardware & software are here:
    http://www.obddiagnostics.com/

    2) Purchase the OBDII reader from (for example) JC Whitney (also ~$99) and get the codes directly using a hand-held reader:
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATE- NTRY_ID%3A2009348&TID=101&productId=2009348&langId=-1&catalogId=10101

    Of the two, the 1st one seems much more robust and richer in information (and maybe funner).

    BTW, I asked earlier WHERE one can see all the P-codes. The answer is here:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml

    Tommy
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Seth,
    Ironically, I had the same problem this afternoon luckly only two miles from home.
    I tried the battery trick (mine is original) with no luck. I got the exact same codes and the "no bus" indication.
    How did you make out with the PCM?
    Dave
  • pete73pete73 Member Posts: 2
    95 Dakota V8- 318 5.2L Magnum 4 wheel Drive pick up truck. Cranks but will not start. Have replaced crank shaft position sensor, cam shaft and powertrain control module. I'm tearing my hair out here! Please help! Pete
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    Dave,

    Unfortunately, I still don't know anything. I tried the battery trick as well, to no avail. I had it towed to the dealer and have not heard back from them yet. I will post the results as soon as know something. Just out of curiosity, have you had any problems with your stereo or any other electrical problems?

    Seth
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    Dave,

    I just heard from the dealer, it is the PCM. Unfortunately for me it is on back order. I also have found that we are not the only ones this has happened to. I looked on mycarstats.com and found other similar complaints. One guy said his went out at 57,500 miles (which is what mine is at), they replaced it and it went out again after 7,000 miles.

    Sounds like there may be a potential recall.

    Good Luck,
    Seth
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    No other electrical problems whatsoever.
    I ordered a used PCM today, hopefully it will be here by Friday. I'll keep you posted.
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    I have a little more mileage - 106K.
    I just realized that you have a 2001. I was so focused on postings with "no bus" I didn't pick that up, mine is a 2000. I have a friend at work that told me there was a recall on the 2001 to have the PCM "flashed". Might want to look into that.
  • cblack1cblack1 Member Posts: 6
    It is a 01 Dakota 4.7L, and I don't understand what you mean by an engine code. It usually haooens when I start the engine up. When I turn on the A/C, it will idle real high until it is warm.
  • cblack1cblack1 Member Posts: 6
    This BONEHEAD had all kinds of stuff fixed while it was still under warranty. Every time something wasn't right, I hauled it in. If I didn't owe more than the thing was worth, I would have gotten rid of it a long time ago.
  • pete73pete73 Member Posts: 2
    Well, we put a factory rebuilt PCM purchased from a Dodge dealership in and still no luck. We are trying to have it checked out tho because we have no guarantee that it works properly. I have had all my "expert" friends, who work on cars professionally, looking at this truck and we just cannot get it going. I really need this second vehicle and any ideas at all will be appreciated. Thanx, Pete
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the "heads up" on the possible recall. I will look into that.
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    It's good to know about the P-Codes, but if it's not theP-Codes that keep coming up on my odometer ie: 950 & 999 then what are these numbers? My 97 is going into the dealer's service dept. tomorrow morning (Friday). I had earlier postings listed under "Backfring And Power Loss". I've given up troubleshooting this one myself. I will post the results.
  • dakotaman1dakotaman1 Member Posts: 14
    Steve,

    I, too, have a '97 Dakota. Look for my posts about Check Engine over the past 2 weeks. Someone named Dusty has answered a few of my questions, but he left me hanging on my last one (never heard from him again). According to him, the 3-digit codes you're getting in your odometer are Instrument Cluster faults; I get the same ones (950/999). It points to ABS from CAB fuse panel (look thru the thread and you'll see in better detail.). It's still Greek to me - probably nothing serious. I asked Dusty for an exhaustive list of the 3-digit codes we're talkng about here but he didn't oblige.

    On a website called I Hacked, I found this (it'll help you deciper the 3-digit ones):
    http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/95/45/

    What Dusty first claims to be a capability to read P-codes from the odometer turned out to be false: one CANNOT read those codes from the odometer on the '97, and this is no doubt true for other years as well. If you look at my last post, you'll see explicit and useful instructions as to how to get and crack the P-codes for the Dakota.

    Good luck.
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Well, I just replaced the PCM with a used unit. Did not fix the problem. Back to the drawing board.........Any one have any suggestions??
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    For the most part, Dusty is a knowledgeable and helpful resource for all of us in the forum. The same goes for Bruce (bpeebles) and this forum would be much less worthwhile without them. I like to think about all of the people whom they have helped (including me) at one time or another. The tone of your posting seems to indicate that Dusty is not cooperative, respondent or helpful. I sincerely think otherwise. If I misread your intent, I apologize. The whole beauty of this forum has been the friendliness of the members, and the respect for each other. No one is always "right" (not counting my mother-in-law) and everyone does their best to offer sound advice.

    Bookitty
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks Dakotaman1for the input. I was able to get my truck into my local Dodge Dealer Friday morning (9/16) but haven't heard anything back yet. I've called a couple of times but the service writer said that they didn't have anything conclusive yet. At one point he even used the word STUMPED. That's not what I wanted to hear. He told me to expect a call today (Saturday) but we'll just have to wait and see? I'm concerned that my PCM may be faulty because my check engine light hasn't came on for the past week even when my truck was running so rough it was backfiring? I'll post what the dealer says when I get their response.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My apologies for not responding right away. Not only am I not on every day, but I've been have internet problems to boot.

    The P-codes are readable in my 2003 and earlier Dakotas, and it works in Dodge and Chrysler cars and mini-vans. I just verified that it works on a '98 Chrysler Concorde and a '99 Dodge Caravan. I was not aware that it didn't work on a '97 Dakota. That seems strange since Chrysler has used that same method for reading faults even before they went to the direct display of P-codes in the odometer display.

    If you still need a definition of the instrument cluster codes I'll provide them.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dakotaman1dakotaman1 Member Posts: 14
    And sorry I didn't get you something posted before you took your truck on in - no doubt the very thing you werre trying to avoid. Not that my post would have necessarily solved your problem either. If you get a resolution on your PCM issue, I do hope you'll post it.

    And as for BooKitty's comment - seems a bit too defensive. All I did was recap the history of my thread. I agree that Dusty has provided much useful comments.info on this forum, and given the nature of those commtns, it surprised me that he was wrong about reading P-codes. He started out by saying (emphatically) that Chrylsler was the only make that allowed you (owners) to do this, and it ended up - after several iterations - to be that it's impossible; and I made this determiniation on my own. That P-codes are not readable via odometer on the Dakota is something every Dakota owner should know, and as such, it's too bad such info couldn't be posted in a general (e.g., FAQ area) rather than hidden within a discussion thread like mine (or Steve's).

    The only other point I raised was the source of the 3-digit code translations. Inquiring minds wanna know. Dusty offered a translaton for "950". I politely asked for a source of the entire list and that request was ignored (for whatever reason). Here again, translations for all 3-digit Instrument Cluster check codes, as with P-codes, are something every Dakota owner should know, and as such, it's too bad such info couldn't be posted in a general (e.g., FAQ area) rather than hidden within a dussion thread like mine (or Steve's). Turned out - Steve had the same question.

    What is frustrating on a forum like this is when someone posts several questons and some else - well meaning as they are - weighs in and picks and chooses which questions to respond to and says nothing about the rest - even if to say "I know nothing abut that other question..." This is what's a little frustrating for some - a little like charades. So I ended up research on my own and - in effect - answering some of my own questions. I posted the definitive source of 3-digit (Instrument Cluster Check) codes:
    http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/95/45/

    and P-codes
    http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml

    for all to see. If someone disagrees with this information, please push back! But I saw it posted nowhere else on this forum.

    Enough of that. Dusty's responces were appreciated and I stated so personally in all my replies. Reread (BooKitty) if you missed them. A major suggestion would be to have a generic FAQ area to post fundamental info about the Dakota, so it's not couched in problem-specific threads. That would save busy folks like me a lot of time. If such is possible on this forum, great! If not, so be it.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, I guess on occasion I do let some questions go by because I'm not the only one in here that has good Dakota knowledge and has been more than helpful. However, I missed your's because a number of posts went by and I don't always go backwards to check. I do have a life outside of this forum.

    On your comment about the "P-codes are not readable via odometer on the Dakota " is categorically incorrect. They are on 2001s and up for sure. The fact that the '97 has the newest Chrysler instrument cluster and PCM circuitry, I did believe that they would have the P-codes readable in the odometer display. It looks like I made an assumption and was incorrect. My apologies.

    As to the Instrument Cluster codes, They are from the '03 Dodge Dakota factory service manual, although Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler cars and trucks use the same scheme and have for a number of years. I agree that it should probably be published in the Dakota FAQs forum and I will post them there when I have the time.

    regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I just realized that I did respond to the question about where the source for the instrument cluster codes were. It's in post number 3662 to Seth.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cnegleycnegley Member Posts: 6
    Dusty,
    Can I reset the instrument cluster myself without having to go back to the dealer? What is the procedure?
    Carl
  • trapezecdntrapezecdn Member Posts: 13
    First thank you to everyone who posted the info about engine codes, and the website that explains on how to get them and their explanations. I had the engine light come on for the first time today, and was confounded by it as I had just done a pretty thorough check over with a trustworthy mechanic.

    I discovered the code to be P0455 " a large leak in the evaporative system". I am not completely sure what this entails but I did recheck my gas cap, which incidently had just been replaced a week or two ago to pass an emissions test in Ontario. (drove it to California in the meantime) The gas cap seems fine.

    So I humbly ask as to what I else I should be looking at or for to solve this problem. It is a 2000 club cab 2wd with a 3.9L.

    :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No. The faults displayed during the test, with exception of the 110 code, indicate a fault elsewhere in the vehicle communication system. The 110 code is not clearable because it indicates a fault within the instrument cluster itself.

    The system actually performs a automatic self test and reset at each switch to the "on" position of the ignition switch. For example, if a 920 code is being displayed ("The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the Powertrain Control Module [PCM]"), the fault will only be cleared when the cause of the fault has been corrected. In this case the instrument cluster is looking for a lamp off signal from the PCM. That signal will not be transmitted until the PCM circuitry is working correctly.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, first if you don't mind, how did you obtain the "P" code?

    A loose, defective, or incorrect fuel filler cap will cause this problem. Double check to ensure that you have the correct cap. There are two different caps used on the Dakota depending on the evaporative fuel/emissions package that you have. Depending on the year, whether conventional, Club Cab, or Quad Cab, and whether it has federal or California emissions, your vehicle may or may not have the On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery system.

    If you still have the old cap, look at the underside and compare it to the new one. Some will have a plastic base and others will be metal. The new one must be of the same construction. Disregard the color of the upper plastic. The factory ones were black, but Chrysler replacements are medium gray. After market caps may also be a different colr.

    If the cap is not the issue, there are neoprene vapor lines going from the Leak Detection Pump under the hood to the top of the fuel tank. Because of the year and age of your Dakota, it is likely they are cracked. This will cause the P0455 code. I would advise replacing all of the lines and any other components that look brittle or cracked.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • airzooguyairzooguy Member Posts: 1
    You have all been very helpful to me. Hope this helps someone else.

    I just replaced the left upper ball joint on my '98 Dakota. Here's the process I went through. First, get a book and read up on the procedure.
    A floor jack is really helpful but you can make due with a scissors jack if you must. You must have a solid jack stand to support the truck while you are working.

    The original ball joint is riveted so you are going to have to remove these rivets.
    I used a drill and cold chisel to do this job. Center punch each rivet first. Use care while drilling. You are NOT trying to drill through the entire rivet. Brake lines are very close to where you are working so be extra careful where your drill goes. It'll be easier if you slightly loosen the lug nuts before you start. Also put a block behind the rear wheels for safety.

    1. Jack up the truck and place a jack stand under a solid part of the frame. Let the truck down onto the jack stand. You're gonna need the jack in a minute.
    2. Remove the wheel.
    3. Remove the brake caliper and support it with a rope or something so that the weight is not hanging on the brake line.
    4. Remove the brake disc. (Good time to inspect pads and rotor.)
    5. Use a floor jack to lift the suspension so that the ball joint is not under pressure from the springs. (If you can move the ball joint by hand, you have lifted it enough.)
    6. Now comes the fun. Center punch each rivet head (there are 3)
    7. I used a 1/4 inch drill which seemed to be about right. Drill the center of the rivet head until the drill is about 1/4 inch deep.
    All you are doing is weakening the rivet head. Do not drill into anything else but the rivet.
    8. Using a cold chisel, pop the rivet heads off. Sounds easy, doesn't it?
    Trust me, you'll need a hammer. (You’re using safety glasses, right??)
    9. Now remove the cotter pin and large nut from the under side of the ball joint. You're gonna need a breaker bar for this one. Make sure your knuckles are not in harms way when this sucker lets loose.
    10. Now get up and go to Sears and buy a ball joint "pickle fork" tool that you forgot to get before you started. It's about 15 bucks.
    11. OK, that was a pleasant break, now back to work.
    12. Using your shiny new pickle fork tool and your favorite hammer, pop the ball joint loose from the casting.
    13. At this point, if you are lucky, the ball joint will pop loose from the newly headless rivets. If not, you still have that hammer & chisel handy.
    14. Once the old joint is out, use the chisel to cut off the shaft of the now exposed rivets, then pin punch the remaining portion of the rivet out.
    15. Install the new joint. Put in all three bolts to hold it to the frame and start the nuts but don't torque them yet. Pick up the nut you just dropped and start it too.
    16. Make sure the hole for the lower bolt is clean and not corroded or out of round, then install the lower bolt through the hole.
    17. Once the lower nut is started, tighten and torque the 3 attachment bolts. Then tighten and torque the lower bolt.
    18. Make damn sure you use the recommended torque on all of these bolts or you could find yourself with a 3 wheeled truck at an inopportune moment.
    19. On the lower bolt, torque it to recommended value and check to see if the cotter pin will fit. If not, use that breaker bar again and slightly TIGHTEN the nut until the cotter pin will fit. Never loosen the nut to put in the cotter pin.
    20. Now set back for a minute and admire your work. Then put the rotor back on and reinstall the brake caliper. (You did use correct torque on those caliper pins, right?)
    21. Put the tire back on and drive slowly and directly to where ever you are going to have the alignment done. Yes you do have to because you just broke every adjustment there is on that wheel. Be happy. You just saved yourself over 100 bucks and you have a new tool.

    Disclaimer. This is what I did. Your mileage may vary. Batteries not included.
    working under a vehicle can be dangerous. be careful!!!!!!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    airzooguy, your instructions were extraordinary in their detail as well as extremely clear. But, you failed to mention whether it was a 2 beer, three beer or 5 beer job. Please, in the future, do not leave out this most important detail. Thanks for a great and humorous post.

    Bookitty
  • 91dakota91dakota Member Posts: 2
    I have a '91 dakota (318 v8) and was recently trying to change the engine. I got an engine that was supposidly a 318 w/ a police interceptor out of an '89 diplomat. After pulling both engines I realized that the mounts were in totally different positions causing the new engine to not have room to fit, and that block doesn't have any holes in it to change the position of the mounts.

    Does anyone have a solution?
  • bocephusnjbocephusnj Member Posts: 4
    well fixed head light with display lights, was able to buy new switch for 39 on line and did not fit but was able to swap out bad bulb, a little pricey for a light bulb, but still cheaper then service dept at dealership. Still problem with a intermitting gas gauge, it works some times and sometimes not, it shows "E" no set times on not working, can be running down the road and gauge work intermitting or stays working for a few days or not, gonna try to check connections under truck on saturday, any suggestions, would think that connections out side would be some like in the inside connections ,have some type of clip to lock in place, but gotta try something, thanks for anyone that reply, Keith
  • bocephusnjbocephusnj Member Posts: 4
    super charge it and stick in the bed, never dealt with a police cruiser, they come around dealerships to often
  • 91dakota91dakota Member Posts: 2
    I've thought about that and if it weren't so hard I would about be tempted to do it.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    I had an intermittent problem with the rear passenger window in my 2000 Quad cab. It stopped working one day, and I called the dealer to make an appointment. It had failed prior to that, and the dealer told me it would be difficult to trace the problem if it was operating. Every day, I would try the darn thing and of course it worked flawlessly. The day of the appointment, it started working again. Dusty posted that usually the trouble can be found in the main control in the driver's door. I called to cancel and the service rep told me that if it happened again, that he would wok me in somehow. Friday past, it died and no amount of wiggling, door closing and opening had any effect. I drove it over, and they found the regulator faulty, and also replaced the motor (extended warranty). Happy days are here again, and thankfully it never failed in the open position. Thanks to all.

    Bookitty
This discussion has been closed.