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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
and is it something I can fix on my own? Clean the throttlebody and all components in it. Also check for vacuum-leaks.
If you provide more info. (Model year, engine code, does this happen with AC on/off, engine hot/cold...etc) we may be able to provide more specific help.
I tell you, I have had nothing but problems with this vehicle since I bought it brand new [endquote]
You sound frustrated, but saying somthing like this 4 YEARS after buying is just plain boneheaded. If you did not complain loudly and have all issues fixed while under warantee, that is YOUR OWN FAULT. Complaining at this point may do little more than make you feel better.
You did not say WHICH factory radio you have installed.... but in any case, you may find that simply stopping by Best Buy (or whever) and selecting a different radio for them to install would be the best solution. You would end up with a BETTER radio than most factory radios.
A less-expensive option may be to stop by a scrapyard and purchase an identical replacement... then install it yourself.
Obviously, I'm quite inclined to figure it out myself now but before I jump into it can anybody offer some simple "how-to's" and definitely "don't-do's"? I will also be picking up a Haynes book to help me through it as well.
-Colin
According to the '03 manual you must remove the inside hood release (two screws) and parking brake (two screws) handles. The service manual indicates that the 16-pin data connector must also be removed.
Regards,
Dusty
921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
999 = An error has been discovered.
You may ignore the 999. The test will display this code anytime the system logs a fault.
You either have a wiring problem, lost the PCM program, or the PCM is defective.
You can try this. Disconnect the battery for two minutes, reconnect and try to start the vehicle. This may cause the PCM to reset itself to the learn mode, but you may still have a PCM problem. It may have to be reflashed by your dealer.
Just for grins, do you still have the original battery?
Best regards,
Dusty
The 'Service 4WD' indicator lamp is illuminated anytime a fault in the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) is declared OR if the instrument cluster has NOT received any messages from the TCCM after six (6) seconds.
If the transfer case is working properly and no code can be pulled with a DRB3 scan tool, I suspect you might have a bad instrument cluster board.
Regards,
Dusty
-CL
Thanks again,
Seth
:confuse
Weak batteries or those that are on the threshold of dying give some really strange symptoms on Chrysler products. A few weeks ago a friend told me of a RAM that had been plaqued with a intermittent radio display for about two months. During this time everything else electrical worked fine and there were no starting problems. Then suddenly the door chime started going off for no reason one day while driving. When the engine was shut off a few miles later the battery was completely dead. A new battery fixed it. That was 13 months ago and the radio display has worked fine since.
Best regards,
Dusty
Where did you find the 920 & 921 codes? I called around and no one could give me any answers.
Thanks again for your help..I am going to check the PCM out tomorrow. I'll post the results in case there is someone else out there with a similar situation.
Seth
The instrument cluster codes are published in Section 8 of the Dodge Dakota factory service manual.
Yes, please get back to us on the resolution to your problem.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Dusty
When my 2wdr Quad Cab Dakota had 700 miles on it, the service 4wdr light came on and the dealer "reset the the instrument cluster per S.T.A.R." Do you know what S.T.A.R.is? Now it has come on again at 93,000 miles but the dealer is telling me that there is a service bulletin number 08-032-00 telling them to replace the HVAC Control Assembly (over $300.00 parts and labor) to turn the light off. Does this sound right to you?
Carl
Regards,
Dusty
I just called Dodge Service (maybe should have long ago) on the matter of P-codes from the '97 Dakota. It is not - I repeat NOT - possible to get P-codes to display in the odometer using any ignition procedure !!!!!! They must be read out using an OBD reader.
Along that line, I've discovered a couple avenues:
1) Buy an interface (~$99) which, with a serial port on a PC and free software, allows one to see the same amazing diagnostics that the "inspection pros" see. Hardware & software are here:
http://www.obddiagnostics.com/
2) Purchase the OBDII reader from (for example) JC Whitney (also ~$99) and get the codes directly using a hand-held reader:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATE- NTRY_ID%3A2009348&TID=101&productId=2009348&langId=-1&catalogId=10101
Of the two, the 1st one seems much more robust and richer in information (and maybe funner).
BTW, I asked earlier WHERE one can see all the P-codes. The answer is here:
http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml
Tommy
Ironically, I had the same problem this afternoon luckly only two miles from home.
I tried the battery trick (mine is original) with no luck. I got the exact same codes and the "no bus" indication.
How did you make out with the PCM?
Dave
Unfortunately, I still don't know anything. I tried the battery trick as well, to no avail. I had it towed to the dealer and have not heard back from them yet. I will post the results as soon as know something. Just out of curiosity, have you had any problems with your stereo or any other electrical problems?
Seth
I just heard from the dealer, it is the PCM. Unfortunately for me it is on back order. I also have found that we are not the only ones this has happened to. I looked on mycarstats.com and found other similar complaints. One guy said his went out at 57,500 miles (which is what mine is at), they replaced it and it went out again after 7,000 miles.
Sounds like there may be a potential recall.
Good Luck,
Seth
I ordered a used PCM today, hopefully it will be here by Friday. I'll keep you posted.
I just realized that you have a 2001. I was so focused on postings with "no bus" I didn't pick that up, mine is a 2000. I have a friend at work that told me there was a recall on the 2001 to have the PCM "flashed". Might want to look into that.
I, too, have a '97 Dakota. Look for my posts about Check Engine over the past 2 weeks. Someone named Dusty has answered a few of my questions, but he left me hanging on my last one (never heard from him again). According to him, the 3-digit codes you're getting in your odometer are Instrument Cluster faults; I get the same ones (950/999). It points to ABS from CAB fuse panel (look thru the thread and you'll see in better detail.). It's still Greek to me - probably nothing serious. I asked Dusty for an exhaustive list of the 3-digit codes we're talkng about here but he didn't oblige.
On a website called I Hacked, I found this (it'll help you deciper the 3-digit ones):
http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/95/45/
What Dusty first claims to be a capability to read P-codes from the odometer turned out to be false: one CANNOT read those codes from the odometer on the '97, and this is no doubt true for other years as well. If you look at my last post, you'll see explicit and useful instructions as to how to get and crack the P-codes for the Dakota.
Good luck.
Bookitty
The P-codes are readable in my 2003 and earlier Dakotas, and it works in Dodge and Chrysler cars and mini-vans. I just verified that it works on a '98 Chrysler Concorde and a '99 Dodge Caravan. I was not aware that it didn't work on a '97 Dakota. That seems strange since Chrysler has used that same method for reading faults even before they went to the direct display of P-codes in the odometer display.
If you still need a definition of the instrument cluster codes I'll provide them.
Regards,
Dusty
And as for BooKitty's comment - seems a bit too defensive. All I did was recap the history of my thread. I agree that Dusty has provided much useful comments.info on this forum, and given the nature of those commtns, it surprised me that he was wrong about reading P-codes. He started out by saying (emphatically) that Chrylsler was the only make that allowed you (owners) to do this, and it ended up - after several iterations - to be that it's impossible; and I made this determiniation on my own. That P-codes are not readable via odometer on the Dakota is something every Dakota owner should know, and as such, it's too bad such info couldn't be posted in a general (e.g., FAQ area) rather than hidden within a discussion thread like mine (or Steve's).
The only other point I raised was the source of the 3-digit code translations. Inquiring minds wanna know. Dusty offered a translaton for "950". I politely asked for a source of the entire list and that request was ignored (for whatever reason). Here again, translations for all 3-digit Instrument Cluster check codes, as with P-codes, are something every Dakota owner should know, and as such, it's too bad such info couldn't be posted in a general (e.g., FAQ area) rather than hidden within a dussion thread like mine (or Steve's). Turned out - Steve had the same question.
What is frustrating on a forum like this is when someone posts several questons and some else - well meaning as they are - weighs in and picks and chooses which questions to respond to and says nothing about the rest - even if to say "I know nothing abut that other question..." This is what's a little frustrating for some - a little like charades. So I ended up research on my own and - in effect - answering some of my own questions. I posted the definitive source of 3-digit (Instrument Cluster Check) codes:
http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/95/45/
and P-codes
http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml
for all to see. If someone disagrees with this information, please push back! But I saw it posted nowhere else on this forum.
Enough of that. Dusty's responces were appreciated and I stated so personally in all my replies. Reread (BooKitty) if you missed them. A major suggestion would be to have a generic FAQ area to post fundamental info about the Dakota, so it's not couched in problem-specific threads. That would save busy folks like me a lot of time. If such is possible on this forum, great! If not, so be it.
On your comment about the "P-codes are not readable via odometer on the Dakota " is categorically incorrect. They are on 2001s and up for sure. The fact that the '97 has the newest Chrysler instrument cluster and PCM circuitry, I did believe that they would have the P-codes readable in the odometer display. It looks like I made an assumption and was incorrect. My apologies.
As to the Instrument Cluster codes, They are from the '03 Dodge Dakota factory service manual, although Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler cars and trucks use the same scheme and have for a number of years. I agree that it should probably be published in the Dakota FAQs forum and I will post them there when I have the time.
regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Can I reset the instrument cluster myself without having to go back to the dealer? What is the procedure?
Carl
I discovered the code to be P0455 " a large leak in the evaporative system". I am not completely sure what this entails but I did recheck my gas cap, which incidently had just been replaced a week or two ago to pass an emissions test in Ontario. (drove it to California in the meantime) The gas cap seems fine.
So I humbly ask as to what I else I should be looking at or for to solve this problem. It is a 2000 club cab 2wd with a 3.9L.
:confuse:
The system actually performs a automatic self test and reset at each switch to the "on" position of the ignition switch. For example, if a 920 code is being displayed ("The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the Powertrain Control Module [PCM]"), the fault will only be cleared when the cause of the fault has been corrected. In this case the instrument cluster is looking for a lamp off signal from the PCM. That signal will not be transmitted until the PCM circuitry is working correctly.
Best regards,
Dusty
A loose, defective, or incorrect fuel filler cap will cause this problem. Double check to ensure that you have the correct cap. There are two different caps used on the Dakota depending on the evaporative fuel/emissions package that you have. Depending on the year, whether conventional, Club Cab, or Quad Cab, and whether it has federal or California emissions, your vehicle may or may not have the On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery system.
If you still have the old cap, look at the underside and compare it to the new one. Some will have a plastic base and others will be metal. The new one must be of the same construction. Disregard the color of the upper plastic. The factory ones were black, but Chrysler replacements are medium gray. After market caps may also be a different colr.
If the cap is not the issue, there are neoprene vapor lines going from the Leak Detection Pump under the hood to the top of the fuel tank. Because of the year and age of your Dakota, it is likely they are cracked. This will cause the P0455 code. I would advise replacing all of the lines and any other components that look brittle or cracked.
Best regards,
Dusty
I just replaced the left upper ball joint on my '98 Dakota. Here's the process I went through. First, get a book and read up on the procedure.
A floor jack is really helpful but you can make due with a scissors jack if you must. You must have a solid jack stand to support the truck while you are working.
The original ball joint is riveted so you are going to have to remove these rivets.
I used a drill and cold chisel to do this job. Center punch each rivet first. Use care while drilling. You are NOT trying to drill through the entire rivet. Brake lines are very close to where you are working so be extra careful where your drill goes. It'll be easier if you slightly loosen the lug nuts before you start. Also put a block behind the rear wheels for safety.
1. Jack up the truck and place a jack stand under a solid part of the frame. Let the truck down onto the jack stand. You're gonna need the jack in a minute.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the brake caliper and support it with a rope or something so that the weight is not hanging on the brake line.
4. Remove the brake disc. (Good time to inspect pads and rotor.)
5. Use a floor jack to lift the suspension so that the ball joint is not under pressure from the springs. (If you can move the ball joint by hand, you have lifted it enough.)
6. Now comes the fun. Center punch each rivet head (there are 3)
7. I used a 1/4 inch drill which seemed to be about right. Drill the center of the rivet head until the drill is about 1/4 inch deep.
All you are doing is weakening the rivet head. Do not drill into anything else but the rivet.
8. Using a cold chisel, pop the rivet heads off. Sounds easy, doesn't it?
Trust me, you'll need a hammer. (You’re using safety glasses, right??)
9. Now remove the cotter pin and large nut from the under side of the ball joint. You're gonna need a breaker bar for this one. Make sure your knuckles are not in harms way when this sucker lets loose.
10. Now get up and go to Sears and buy a ball joint "pickle fork" tool that you forgot to get before you started. It's about 15 bucks.
11. OK, that was a pleasant break, now back to work.
12. Using your shiny new pickle fork tool and your favorite hammer, pop the ball joint loose from the casting.
13. At this point, if you are lucky, the ball joint will pop loose from the newly headless rivets. If not, you still have that hammer & chisel handy.
14. Once the old joint is out, use the chisel to cut off the shaft of the now exposed rivets, then pin punch the remaining portion of the rivet out.
15. Install the new joint. Put in all three bolts to hold it to the frame and start the nuts but don't torque them yet. Pick up the nut you just dropped and start it too.
16. Make sure the hole for the lower bolt is clean and not corroded or out of round, then install the lower bolt through the hole.
17. Once the lower nut is started, tighten and torque the 3 attachment bolts. Then tighten and torque the lower bolt.
18. Make damn sure you use the recommended torque on all of these bolts or you could find yourself with a 3 wheeled truck at an inopportune moment.
19. On the lower bolt, torque it to recommended value and check to see if the cotter pin will fit. If not, use that breaker bar again and slightly TIGHTEN the nut until the cotter pin will fit. Never loosen the nut to put in the cotter pin.
20. Now set back for a minute and admire your work. Then put the rotor back on and reinstall the brake caliper. (You did use correct torque on those caliper pins, right?)
21. Put the tire back on and drive slowly and directly to where ever you are going to have the alignment done. Yes you do have to because you just broke every adjustment there is on that wheel. Be happy. You just saved yourself over 100 bucks and you have a new tool.
Disclaimer. This is what I did. Your mileage may vary. Batteries not included.
working under a vehicle can be dangerous. be careful!!!!!!
Bookitty
Does anyone have a solution?
Bookitty