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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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  • jhensleyjhensley Member Posts: 1
    Hey, since engine changing problems are being discussed, can anyone tell me if it is possible for a V6 or a 318 to bolt up to a transmission that originally had a 4 cylinder engine. My husband and I were given a 95 Dodge Dakota Sport with no engine, and trying to find a 4 cylinder has been a nightmare, so we were wondering if any other engines would bolt up to the transmission. Any help would be appreciated.
    thanks,
    Jamie
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Well, here it is Monday and still no conclusive diagnostic, well, not completely anyway. I decided to take a trip to my dodge dealer to get some stuff out of my truck and talk with the mechanic. He said that the new plug wires that I just installed from NAPA were arching and causing a misfire (I admit, I opted for the cheap set :cry: ). I informed him that this was after the fact, an attempted repair. He also said that the intake gasket was leaking badly and needed to be replaced. I asked him how many codes he was able to pull off the computer? He replied-0. I asked if that seemed strange given the way the truck was running and backfiring. He admitted that it did seem strange and stated that I may also have a bad Oxygen sensor. I called them back today and asked them to thoroughly check the converter. I figure that the converter may have caused the back fire if it was partially blocked taking out the intake gasket and not displaying any codes if the sensors are indeed bad. The dealer said that I was already up to around $1100.00 without the converter :surprise:
    I'll keep you guys posted.
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Success!! After reading several posts on many other websites, I was led to check out my Crankshaft Position sensor. The check is a simple one, simply measure the resistance between the middle and each outer pin. There should be no continuity. Turns out that mine had continuity in both cases. Replaced the sensor, car started right up...on the road again :shades:
  • whook1981whook1981 Member Posts: 3
    My CEL light just came on . truck has been running great ... full oil , plug new , filter new everything possiable .... I dont know how to pull the codes off of it or even what they mean .. its a 2003 quad cab magnum V8 .... 52 k .... ANY HELP would be great before I have to take it to the dealer .... I bought it used so there is no WARRENTY :cry: ..... ANY HELP PLEASE
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    you need to tell us the code that has illuminated the CEL.

    Without starting engine turn key ON-OFF- ON-OFF-ON then watch the display as the diagnostics run.

    Then look up the resultant code(s) here:
    http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
  • whook1981whook1981 Member Posts: 3
    very cool ran throught only got 1 code then said P DONE

    code was P 0441

    Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow !!!!!

    LOL what the hell dose this mean ....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Boy... you asked what to do and I told you... now you want us to fix it for you too? ;-)

    I have decribed the "Evaporative Emission Control System" diagnostics in technical detail in past appends. Please review the archives. You should be able to find out what it means... and what the common fixes are for failure P0441
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    P0441 possible causes: Evap canister
    Wiring Harness intermittent
    Evap Purge Hose (canister to fuel tank)
    Evap Purge Hose (solenoid to canister)
    Evap Purge Solenoid Vacuum Supply
    Evap Purge Solenoid (leaky/stuck open)
    Evap Purge Solenoid (stuck closed)
    The code is set if the Leak Detection Pump Test has passed and no air flow through the evaporative system is detected by the evap monitor. The purge solenoid should be mounted under the hood on the driver's side just outboard of the battery. Check the lower hose from the valve to the engine. Also check the electrical plug.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I forgot, Purge Solenoid part number is 4669475AB and is about $30. Dealer probably will get a couple hundred to troubleshoot and replace.
  • sethcsethc Member Posts: 8
    THANK YOU!! For posting your results. The dealer had tried the PCM to no avail and was stumped as well. I called today and asked them to check the Crankshaft Position sensor and it WORKED!!

    I am finally back on the road again!

    Thanks Dusty & Dave for your help.

    Seth
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    WOW -- a dealer replaced the PCM before checking a KNOWN failure item (Crank position sensor)

    Like I have said before, the engine computer (PCM) does not get "flakey",,,it either WORKS or DOES NOT WORK...there is no in between.

    I hope you did not have to PAY for the PCM!!
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Actually didn't use the dealer at all. PCM was used and was returned (p/n wasn't exact so he took it back). I wish I had known about the CPS before I went down that road...but it all turned out well in the end. Hopefully, my experience will help someone else out...
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Oops, :blush: bpeebles, didn't relize you were responding to Seth's post.
    I would like to echo Seth's THANK YOU to all the people who have posted their solutions to similar PCM problems.... :shades:
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Now the dealer is telling me that I need Oxygen sensors also. May have my truck back this evening if all goes well?
  • dak05dak05 Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever get this solved? I have a similar problem. However, if I shutoff the ac for about 5 minutes then back on it will work for awhile then shuts down again.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dont forget that the O2 sensors (As well as the PCM) are all coverend by the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE. Depending on the model-year of your vehicle, that may be up to 10 years 100,000 miles.

    Read the documentaiton that came with the owners manual to get details about the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Even if the transmission would bolt up...and I'm not sure about that...you may find that a 318 is too powerful for the old four-cylinder transmission.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Without going back and looking at your olderposts, the intake manifold gasket was a problem on the earlier magnum motors. I doubt very much that a catalytic converter would cause an intake manifold gasket problem anyway.

    Regarding the O2 sensor, with air leaking passed the throttlebody via the defective intake manifold, you may get a bad O2 problem code. The O2 sensors on earlier 3.9s, 318s, and 360s don't usually go bad in the full state way, but get lazy in that they are slow to react to exhaust air stream temperatures. In fact, on a lot of them after the engine gets run at operating temperature for a while they act almost normal. However, in a high mileage engine it might be worth changing it out anyway.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • 3250man3250man Member Posts: 4
    2000 Dakota, 3.9L and my headlights wouldn't come on after a cold morning start. I tried restarting the engine, cycling the light switch, and tapping the relay(s). Headlights didn't come on until I used the turn signal and they came on immediately. Lights worked OK all summer. Sounds like a possible cold solder joint - but where?

    3250man
  • stevem1961stevem1961 Member Posts: 13
    Well, I finally got my truck back from the dealer. You were right Dusty, no problem with the converter just mainly the intake gasket. They replaced some other items also. They replaced one injector, some water hoses, my new plug wires that I posted earlier, the oxygen sensors etc. My truck seems to be running better than it was before I started having the trouble :D Thanks for the warranty info also but I'm at 164000 on the mileage so warranty's not an issue. The majority of the cost of the repair (1.6K) was the labor. Thanks to everyone who posted their thoughts and tried to help. Think I'll tow my boat to the river for a little R & R today :shades:
    Steve
  • jim329jim329 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone have any suggestions. i purchased the belltech rear shackle kit to lower my 2000 dakota and u have to take the rivets out of the leaf spring brackets. i am having a very hard time with the rivets. any suggestions?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Glad to hear that things worked out okay and the truck is running good.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rudderfreerudderfree Member Posts: 1
    Are not operational. Have checked fuses- which were not blown- but replaced for good measure. Still not working. Any other suggestions?
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    It's a long shot but check the ground. They both use the same ground point (G207). If you pull down the carpet just to the right of the gas pedal you will see two ground points. The forward one is G207. I say "long shot" because if the ground is bad there should be other problems as the ground is shared with other components.
    Good luck
  • billc3billc3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have exactly the same problem on my 2002 Dakota. There is an inch of water under my carpet on the passenger side. Did you ever get your problem successfully resolved?
  • cujo1cujo1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Dakota sport CC 4X4 with 77000 miles and have to replace ball joints and tie rods. Has any one else had this problem? what is the best to replace it with? I can not believe these would go bad with this mileage on them. I had a 1990 Dakota with 250000 miles and never had a problem Thanks
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    There was a problem with the evaporator drain on a lot of the Dakotas. The drain is just a short straight tube that protrudes through the firewall on the passenger side. While driving, the drain water was being blown back along the tube and into the passenger compartment. I think Dodge has a fix that installs a drain tube and seals the firewall opening with silicone. Along with that problem I had a leaking windshield on my '01 CC.
  • jwl1961jwl1961 Member Posts: 2
    I to just bought a 2005 quad 4x2 and it shimmies, took it to the dealer and there has been bulletin out for warped axles and then the brake drums have to be replaced. So go to the dealer and have them pull up the service bulletin, then the have to check the numbers on the axles and you will find out the problem could be as the SRB describes.
  • jwl1961jwl1961 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Quad cab and the same shimmie, Ask your dealer about the Service Bulletin that is out for that problem, the axles are warpped and the drums need replacing. They have known about this problem for six months
  • kst8engineerkst8engineer Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've got a 2002 Quad Cab 4.7L auto 4wd that has recently started acting up. For the most part, it's doing fine, but every once in a while, the 4wd system decides to engage on its own. The 4High light comes on, and you can tell by its resistance to turn on dry pavement that it is actually engaged. You can usually get it to disengage again by shutting the ignition off and back on a few times. The "Service 4WD" light comes on when this is happening as well.

    Also (possibly related) the dome lights came on a few days ago without being switched on (and they refused to go off). At the same time, the key chime was going off even though the keys weren't in the ignition.

    What's up? Is the chassis control computer going wacky, or is this a problem with the TCCM? I've got an AutoTAP OBDII scan tool -- should it be able to retrieve transfer case error codes?

    Thanks in advance for your help!
    kst8engineer
  • missedbassmissedbass Member Posts: 48
    check the battery first. if the battery is weak strange things can happen. Too much electronics in todays cars and trucks
  • normanthegr8normanthegr8 Member Posts: 3
    The blower on my heater/ AC doesn't come on got a resistor to try but can't buy a copy of a manual for an 03 in Racine/Milwaukee Wi where is the resistor located,ordered the service manual but it will take a week to get here and I'm fogging up.

    Norm :confuse:
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The blower resistor is located in the blower plenum to the left of the blower motor. It is held in by two 8mm hex head screws. There is a wire harness with five wires going to it. It is easiest to remove the resistor before removing the wiring connector. It's difficult to see without crawling underneath the dash a bit. The leftmost screw is a bit of a pain to get to. I just replaced the one in my 02 QC last month.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Been in the auto repair business and around cars most of my life. I've seen ball joints and tie-rods wear and fail at mileage much less than yours. Ford Falcons and early Mustangs, for example, typically required ball joints at 25,000 miles.

    However, on you '99 Dakota there was a issue with the ball joint seals prematurely failing allowing moisture and water to enter the internal joint connection and cause rust. Chrysler has extended the warranty on the upper ball joints up to 2003. The newer ball joints have a much more durable seal.

    As to tie-rods, at 77,000 miles this seems early based on my experience from fellow Dakota owners, but I have read of a few being replaced in the Edmunds forums.

    As to replacements, I can't recommend any particular brand. When I worked in the business Moog was usually a good quality replacement for most everything.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Since your problem it intermittent, the battery suggestion is on solid ground especially if its the factory original. As the previous posted stated, flaky things happen to a Dak when the battery is on the threshold of going belly up. However, the Central Timer Modules (CTM) on previous years also have a higher than normal failure rate.

    As to reading TCCM codes with an OBD2, I have no idea. The current tool recommended by Dodge is the OBD3.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mkempkemkempke Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab 4X4 that I use on the farm. On dirt roads particularly the ones that are really rippled up by heavy truck traffic, my truck rides extremely rough, almost like a 3/4 ton. The back end hops around horribly. It has stock 245-75-16 tires, and stock shocks. Will a 265-70-16 tire and different shocks help to smooth this truck out, or is there another solution. I tried dropping my air pressure down to 26 psi, that helps in rough fields but on the road the ride is the same.
  • shopboyshopboy Member Posts: 4
    This message is to all of you with the "Warped Axel, Bad brake drums etc." problem. I haven't posted for a while, trying not to jinx my outcome. Chrysler admitted that they couldn't fix the problem and they bought my truck back. I have the check in hand, it took two months to get through all their red tape I held my breath the whole time. I am in the Pittsburgh area and would be happy to answer questions. They put me through hell, but I kept my mouth shut. Hope this helps. By the way I bought the truck in May, took it back the first time two weeks later. I had it back 4 times before they involved the Chrysler rep. He tried twice (everything from axels to drums to wheels), the last time he brought another rep and they took the fuse for the anti-lock brakes, still no help.

    :lemon:
  • 1986dakota1986dakota Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me here?
    I've tried everything related to poor fuel economy on my 1989 Dodge Dakota.
    Here's the short list:
    1. Replaced entire exhaust system (cat converter, muffler, pipes) from engine to exhaust pipe.
    2. Major tune-up: Injector system cleaned professionally. Replaced Oxigen sensor, fuel filter, pcv valve, spark plugs and wires, gas cap, air filter, etc (everything!).
    3. Compression and cylinder leak down test: all within specifications (130 psi plus or minus 15 according to Dodge). Fuel pressure test passed.
    4. New Tires (3-months old) kept at 38-40 psi.
    5. Using premium gasoline (Chevron).
    6. No engine leaks (new oil pan and valve cover gasket). Using 15-50 Mobil 1 plus 1 qt. lucus.

    After all this, I still only get 11-12 mpg on the the highway. I used to get 18-20 mpg with my bed (with camper shell) fully loaded with gear going from Los Angeles to San Francisco!!!!
  • normanthegr8normanthegr8 Member Posts: 3
    Found it and was a breeze to change, under the glovebox on passenger side had to clip the tags on the side of the new resistor

    :shades: Norm
  • 05quad4x405quad4x4 Member Posts: 3
    I too bought my 05 Quad Cab 4X4 Dakota in the Pittsburgh area. I have never been so fed up with a new vehicle in my life. I absolutely hate this truck because it vibrates, and Dodge refuses to fix it.

    I have been trying to avoid seeing an attorney, though it looks like that is my last resort.

    Would you be willing to speak with me to give me some advise? If its preferable, I could even meet with you somewhere like a resturaunt in the Western PA area (?) to discuss your experience and how you handled this situation.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
  • cujo1cujo1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I know the recall for the dakota included the 2000 model do you know if it includes the 1999 Dakota also. Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The front end (upper ball joints) issue could only be on 2000 and newer. The design of the front end was changed to have rack-n-pinion steering starting in 2000.

    I also beleive this would be a four wheel drive issue.... the 2WD design is different.
  • atomicjoeatomicjoe Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an 05 Dakota ST Quad. Love it with the 4.7 and tow pkg. :)
    anyway i noticed that the needles on the gauge cluster do not glow when the headlights are on. are they supposed to?
    everything else on the cluster seems to work properly.. all of the service lights work as well as the gauge faces. only the red needles themselves do not glow.

    if this is not a normal condition, is it something that i can fix? (im very experienced with component electronics repair.) or should i just drop it in for service and let them "find" the problem?

    i would hate to put it in the shop and lose use of it for a whole day if i can fix it myself.

    thanks for any help!

    -Joe
  • rharrisonrharrison Member Posts: 2
    I have a mystery for you. On cold starts after putting my '02 Dakota in gear, I get a series of backfires and loss of power intermittantly. So far, I've replaced my water pump(leaking), plug wires & plugs, rotor cap, & crank sensor. I've had the fuel injectors and computer system checked several times with no problems showing. I, the dealership, and my expert mechanic have run out of ideas of what else could be wrong. Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem?
  • seaknightseaknight Member Posts: 2
    I recently overhauled a 97 dakota 3.9 engine. Nothing bore or ported, but replaced crankshaft and a piston, new rings and heads installed. I've received several P codes after engine installation. I've replaced crankshaft sensor, ignition coil, and now have a fuel injector code that points back to the PCM as the fault. (after replacing the component that the P code indicated crankshaft sensor and ignition coil the engine ran fine for a couple days then another fault) I check on a replacement PCM and was told that if I replaced it I would have to re program the module.

    So I guess my question is two fold here. Do I need to re program the PCM from one vehicle to another? And two, If I do then when I overhauled the engine could that of caused a need for re programing?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Generally, each PCM is specific for a vehicle, year, engine, options, ...etc. and the programming is not "transferrable" to another vehicle. (unless you lucky enough to locate a donar-vehicle that is virtually identical in every way.)

    It is NEVER a good idea to swap out PCMs. Do not forget that re-programming is not a trivial task and may only be doable by a dealersip with the proper equipment. Even then, they are trained to install NEW (unprogrammed) PCMS and may not be able assist with a "swap". Some of the programming is not UNdoable for security reasons.

    Consider a PCM as part of the vehicle identity. (in fact the VIN is coded into it)

    My suggestion, forget about swapping out the PCM and look for other causes of the issues you are seeing. I would be looking for a poor ground or power connection to the PCM or an engine component.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on the vehicle and what engine?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check the brakes and ensure their not dragging.

    How's the engine run? Good idle and no performance issues? If not, the intake manifold gasket may be bad.

    High mileage? Check the O2 sensor. Actually, just replace it if its over 100,000 miles. A check of the timing chain could be warranted as well if real loose.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Hi Everyone, I have a 01 QC 4x4 auto 4.7 and need to do a brake job. The parts list for the rears are 9 inch or 11 inch drums. I have just the regular 4x4 sport model, does anyone know what size they are? Should I take off a wheel and measure or are the 11 inch for optional brakes??
    Thanks
    Tom.
  • yoshioyoshio Member Posts: 18
    The engine light display suddenly lit on the dashboard of my 2001 dakota (4.7). I looked at the owners manual and it said it has to do with the emissions. I'm not able to get to a shop right away and need to drive the truck. How serious is this problem. Does anyone know what it could be? Or how to go about checking for the root of the problem?
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