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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah the throttle position sensors (TPS) on that year especially, but in this case judging from his description of the symptoms I think he's having an under voltage problem. On just about any Dakota (or RAM for that matter) that I've ever seen the charging voltage is around 14.0 (13.7 - 14.0) volts almost all the time, except in warmer temperatures. And I can't recall seeing a Dak voltmeter gauge that was ever off.

    A bad TPS will usually cause a rough idle, stalling, stumble, or irratic shifting (automatic).

    My first inclination is a bad alternator, especially if its a high mileage truck.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • blk_jeepblk_jeep Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light on my Father's 05 SLT (4.7) keeps coming on and when it does sometimes the gauges go out and the door locks won't work. He pulls over to the side of the road and shuts the truck off then waits a minute, restarts and all works just fine. This has gone on since I bought the truck for him and it is happening way to often even for his patience level as the dealers stated they "reprogrammed the computer", a day later it happened again. Does anyone else with a 05 have this issue and what was the problem? He loves the truck but this "check engine light issue" is happening once or twice a week now. :cry:
  • 01quadowner01quadowner Member Posts: 4
    Dusty,
    I did try unhooking the battery again after I installed the refurbished PCM, but to no avail. I will go and have the alternator tested today after work. Thanks for the advice. Hope it works. I'll let the forum know what happens...
  • powerpusspowerpuss Member Posts: 3
    My two cents would be to isolate further ... eliminate as much as possible and try to determine if the problem is electrical related, fuel related, or emissions related.
    No load test - Try accelerating engine while in park up to around 2000 RPMS - does engine respond normally and accelerate smoothly? Hold throttle at 1500 RPMS while monitoring tachometer - does engine run smooth?
    Electrical Load test - monitor voltage gauge while in park at idle turn on lights, ac compressor, blower, wipers, roll window up and down - does voltage gauge stay close to 14?
    Load test - when driving down the road and engine begins to surge , if driving conditions allow, put the engine in neutral and try and simulate erratic behavior with no load - does engine still surge ?

    Greg
  • 92dakota0692dakota06 Member Posts: 3
    how do you check or replace TPS?? is it something i can do or have a professional or the dealer work on? i am in the process of changing the fuel filter but i still need to get a new one.
  • warstoryzwarstoryz Member Posts: 5
    Hi. I'm new to this site and to posting questions, so please be patient. I have a 1993 Dakota 4x4 with a 5 speed manual transmission and a V6 engine. The truck is an old warhorse with 286, 000 + miles and I really would like to see it reach 300,000. Lately I am having a lot of trouble shifting into 3rd and 4th gears. The shifting seems hard and the gears grind. The problem is not all the time and its worse in 3rd than in 4th. I have to really jam the shifter to get the gears to engage. I can find no adjustment on the clutch but feel pretty certain if I could make some adjustment it would likely solve or at least help with the problem. Any suggestions or thoughts. Thanks, john
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You mention the clutch.... is there somthing that leads you to beleive that the clutch is not fully releasing? (Do your have troubles getting into 1st or REV when stopped?)

    It sounds as if the synchronizers for 3rd and 4th are getting whimpy. Have you tried changing the xmission fluid. (I recommend RedLine MTL which is specially formulated to help synchronizers do their thing)
  • warstoryzwarstoryz Member Posts: 5
    I usually park the truck in first gear, but I do know that it is often very hard to get it to go into reverse. A lot grinding at times. Sometimes when I shift into third it acts as if it wants to spit something out, but once it is engaged it works fine. I appreciate your help.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Two-hundred and eighty-six thousand?

    The typical causes of hard shifting and gear crashing (grinding) on that series is usually a low transmission lubricant level or the incorrect lubricant. As mentioned, a dragging clutch or one not releasing all of the way can cause gear crashing.

    However, when they get up to that kind of mileage there are other likely causes. Worn sychros and cones, shift levers, shift forks, and shift shafts can cause hard shifting and gear crash. There's a two-piece thrust washer on the second gear shaft that has been known to cause hard shifting from 1st to 2nd.

    But, I've seen a couple of these New Venture 5-speeeds apart and from what I can tell from others that work on them they are not prone to see excessive wear on gears or bearings, even at high mileage as long as the lubricant level has always been maintained and the correct lubricant used.

    If the transmission lubricant is low, check for leaks at both ends. If it's been quite low for some time I think the problem may be in the transmission. If the fluid level is where it should be, I'd suspect the clutch is causing your problem, especially if the clutch has been in there a while.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • 01quadowner01quadowner Member Posts: 4
    Dusty - the alternator testerd OK. Further development... it began to run so erratic that the :check Engine Lamp finally illuminated. I took by my brother-in-law's private shop where he hooked-up the diagnostic machine, and he said the PCM was sending out erratic codes like he has never seen before. Some of them were not even real codes. He sais in his opinion, the refurbished PCM was hosed. He checked for the usual stuff (vacuum leaks, etc.), but didn't find anything. He recommended trying to get my money back from the refurbisher, then "bite the bullet" and buy the new one from the dealer (which comes with only a one-year warranty).
    However, check this out. Before I left his shop, he "cleared" the PCM (erased the memory?) with his instrument, unhooked the battery, waited about fifteen minutes, and then re-hooked the battery. Believe it or not, the damn thing ran as good as it ever has for about 40 miles, I mean perfectly. At all speeds. No sign of any trouble. Then after about 40 miles, the same surging problem began all over again. It got so bad that the CE lamp illuminated again.
    So I did "bite the bullet" and took it back to the dealer yesterday for a new factory computer (5-Star Status, by the way). I really do need my truck back.
    I'll let you know how it goes.

    Greg,
    Pretty much tried all the thing you suggested, and the surging gets to the point where it seems to be happening all the time, except at idle (1500 RPM). Any time I accelerate, and especially under any load (pulling even the slightest hill).

    I'll let you know how this thing turns-out after the dealer puts in their new PCM....

    Thanks
  • warstoryzwarstoryz Member Posts: 5
    I'll try changing the trans fluid 1st. Maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks for the help. John
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    When I stated that I had a bad feeling about this, I was thinking of the PCM. I think your's is defective, rebuilt or not.

    Hopefully this isn't the case. Please get back to us and let us know.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • frustraded02frustraded02 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 5.9 Dakota has 31,000.00 miles. It is continually having on and off shifting problems. It will only start out in second gear and I have to manually shift it. The check engine light comes on for about a week and then the problem seems to heal itself. The check engine light goes out and it runs great for a day or two. I had it to the dealer and they did the 30,000.00 transmisson flush and filter clean. It cost me 250.00 and did not solve the problem. I have just been dealing with it because every time I make an appointment at the dealer the truck stops the problem. Any ideas of what could be the problem. Maybe a computer error or something. Any body with an answer, It would be of great help. It Is Driving me nuts.
  • lemonownerlemonowner Member Posts: 1
    For what its worth to all you fellow dodge owners, I have a 2000 club cab 4wd with 106000 miles on it. Ever since it had 68000 I have had nothing but problems. It has caught on fire, had every possible sensor known to man replaced on it, both of the main wiring harnessess replaced and 4 pcms. It has spent 3 months out of the last 3 years in the shop. I too have called dodge multiple multiple times and received absolutely no help. I do however have the dodge representatives cell phone number for my area, although I do not know if it is still valid or not. After bugging them relentlessly and spending about 6000.00 out of my own pocket, I was able to get them to spring 300.00 for the latest repair. I must say that this is the absolute last chrysler product that I will ever buy and have done my best to prevent anyone out there from making the mistake. In closing to the 01 quadowner I say, I too purchased my first pcm over the internet only to have to pay the dealer 1100.00 to replace it. Of course they still couldn't tell me why the two subsequent replacement pcms failed. I am planning on trying to sell mine soon the only problem is who will ever give me what the real value should be.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You have a 5.9 so you have spark plug wires, cap and rotor. These can cause erroneous TCM-PCM faults that sometimes does cause shifting problems.

    However, if it always starts out in second gear I suspect a stuck shift solenoid valve, or the shifter cable is out of adjustment.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • tomgreigtomgreig Member Posts: 3
    This is strange! I just just bought a '99 3.9L. The low beam headlights do not come on but the high beams do. And, with the switch in the low beam position all the running lights work. I checked all the fuses and replaced the bulbs but nothing worked. Any ideas about what I could check next?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Its possible that there could be a bad connection somewhere in the low beam circuit, or you have a bad headlight switch.

    But before you start doing some serious troubleshooting, have you verified with a known good bulb that the lamps are good?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • tomgreigtomgreig Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I have replaced both headlight bulbs with brand new bulbs. That was no help. Since the switch turns on all the outside running lights, I would think that it is ok. But, I'll be the first to admit that I know very little about automotive electrical systems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Assuming you have checked all the proper fuses ... Check the relay that switches the current for the headlights.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, the headlight switch applies power to all of the exterior lamps through relays. The headlamps, however, are on a different circuit. The problem in your case is between the multifunction switch (low/high beam) on the column, and the Central Timer Module (CTM) assuming that the wiring from the low beam side of the headlamp to the CTM is good.

    It's another one of those bad feelings I've got, but because of the year of your Dak I'm suspicious that the CTM is the culprit.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tomgreigtomgreig Member Posts: 3
    Are you saying that this CTM thing is expensive?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Copied from NHTSA website. Owners of these vehicle might want to check for this problem.

    YEAR (MY) 2004 AND 2005 DODGE DURANGO SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES AND MY 2005 DODGE DAKOTA PICKUP TRUCKS. A PRELIMINARY EVALUATION HAS BEEN OPENED TO ASSESS THE SCOPE AND FREQUENCY OF THE CONDITION.
    NHTSA Action Number : PE05056 NHTSA Recall Campaign Number : N/A Make : DODGE Model: DAKOTA Manufacturer : DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION Year : 2005 Component : STEERING:WHEEL AND HANDLE BAR Date Investigation Opened : October 26, 2005 Date Investigation Closed : Open Summary:
    ODI HAS IDENTIFIED SEVERAL FIELD REPORTS RELATED TO STEERING SHAFT LOOSENESS OR SEPARATION DUE TO LOOSE OR MISSING COUPLING BOLTS IN MODEL
  • jarhead1jarhead1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 Dodge Dakota, with 64000 miles, which is low for an alternator to go out. I can get it started if I keep to igtition turned and give it some gas. But as soon as I let off the gas it dies. The battery has died twice but has taken a charge both times. Anyone got any ideas other than being an alternator?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think it's the alternator given the symptoms you describe. If you battery is charged enough to start the car it's charged enough to run it for a while. If anything, racing the engine would make it run worse, not better, with low voltage.

    If you have been charging your low battery using the alternator, that can also hurt it. You can take it off and Autozone will bench test it for you, which is the only good way....or you can charge your battery, start the car, and then put a voltmeter across your battery terminals....if the voltmeter rises up to about 14 volts from 12 volts, then your alternator is charging.

    Your problem could be 50 things....one idea would be a large vacuum leak somewhere.
  • rodjohnsrodjohns Member Posts: 1
    A new member to this forum, I own a 1999 Dakota with 103,000 miles on the odo. Recently, within the past few days, the temperature gage has indicated that my engine is over heating, that triggers the check gage light to activate.

    I've checked all the fluids, and the truck seems to be running fine, and the temperature gage doen't always show that the engine is over heating. Furhtermore, once the temperature gage shows that the engine is over heating, it will then back off and fall back to normal.

    What's the problem, and is it serious enough to get it fixed immediately?

    Thanks,

    Rodger
    Indianapolis, IN.
    :confuse:
  • ssandozssandoz Member Posts: 4
    MY 99 EXT CAB 318 AUTO TRNS WILL NOT SHIFT UP FROM 1ST AND AT THE SAME TIME A HOST OF ELECTRICAL THINGS QUIT WORKING IE TURN SIG, PARK LITES ANY IDEAS? I CHECKED FUSES AND ALL THE BASIC STUFF.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I'm a bit confused...is the engine in fact over-heating or do you suspect the gauge is malfunctioning?
    If the engine is indeed over-heating I would be first inclined to suspect that the thermostat is sticking and this is indeed serious enough to have it repaired asap.
    If it is the gauge malfunctioning there are several things that could cause it but it still would really need to be repaired without delay in order that you know if you did later have a over-heating problem
    jneal
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Are you getting any trouble codes? If so, what are they?
    jneal
  • ssandozssandoz Member Posts: 4
    WELL SINCE I 1ST POSTED I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT THE TRUCK IS IN A LIMP HOME MODE. I WENT TO CHECK THE CODES VIA THE ODOMETER RESET WHAT HAPPENED WAS DISPLAYED, CHECK, 0000000,
    RESET THEN LITTLE PARTS OF THE DISPLAY LITE UP GIVING THE APPERANCE OF LITTLE BUGS SPINIING IN CIRCLES THEN THE DASH WARNING LIGHTS COME ON AND THEN GO OFF,TWO TONES, GAGES ALL JUMP TO APROX.
    20%, 80%, 100% BACK TO ZERO. THEN TWO MORE TONES AND ODO GOES TO MILAGE READING AND THAT SEEMS TO BE IT. I AM THINKING OF TRYING TO DRIVE IT TO LOCAL AUTO PARTS THEY WILL HOOK IT UP TO OBDM CODE READER FOR FREE. AND MY ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IS JUST THE TURN SIGNALS AND 4 WAY FLASHERS DON'T WORK EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS OK NOW. OOPS DIDN'T MEAN TO POST A NEW MESSAGE I AM USING THIS STUFF FOR THE FIRST TIME. ANY IDEAS OUT THERE?
  • keith1981keith1981 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota with 193,00 miles. Truck will start but will not idle. It will stay running if you keep giving it gas but as soon as you let off the gas it won't idle and dies. Any ideas? Thank you
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Check your Battery
  • rabbitpit2000rabbitpit2000 Member Posts: 1
    2002 3.9 v6 quad dakota notice slight ping or ticking noise is this normal or maybe lifter or injector?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think they're around $135.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    This could be caused by a defective thermostat not opening quick enough at operating temperature. This is a fairly common symptom, especially on a vehicle that has that many years and miles.

    If the engine is not actually overheating, then I would suspect the temperature gauge sending unit.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, that's a strange one.

    Something appears to be common to both the 1st gear shift and the electrical system. If the battery is fairly new, I'd suspect a shorted 1st or 2nd gear shift solenoid.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • warstoryzwarstoryz Member Posts: 5
    Hi. Finally retired my 1993 Dakota ( 286,500+ miles of great service) and bought a 1999 Club Cab Dakota SRT. There was a rattling noise that I could only hear when I was not using the brakes, so I removed the front right wheel and found that the lower mounting pin on the caliper was loose. I am guessing some monkey's uncle used an air wrench to tighten the pin and ended up stripping the reciever threads. The pin threads are fine, but I am wondering if anyone can suggest an easy fix to repairing the stripped threads that the pin turns into? Thanks in advance. John
  • warstoryzwarstoryz Member Posts: 5
    Hi. Finally retired my 1993 Dakota ( 286,500+ miles of great service) and bought a 1999 Club Cab Dakota SRT. There was a rattling noise that I could only hear when I was not using the brakes, so I removed the front right wheel and found that the lower mounting pin on the caliper was loose. I am guessing some monkey's uncle used an air wrench to tighten the pin and ended up stripping the reciever threads. The pin threads are fine, but I am wondering if anyone can suggest an easy fix to repairing the stripped threads that the pin turns into? Thanks in advance. John
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    John, there are several ways to repair internal (female) threads. One is the use of a helicoil (sic) which threads into the hole and expands when the bolt is screwed into it. Another which i have used on occasion, is to fill the hole with a plug weld (using 7014 rod) drilling and tapping. In this scenario, you must carefully locate the "hole to be." I am not certain that I would trust a helicoil given the pressure generated by activating brakes.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    BE CAREFUL HERE!! This is part of the braking system. I would STRONGLY advise against any quickie-fix.

    If done properly, the heli-coil solution will make threads that are STRONGER than the original cast metal. Some airplanes use heli-coil-like steel threads on EVERY SINGLE fastener.

    Dont trust your life to anything less than a good-solid repair.
  • keith1981keith1981 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you! I checked the battery and replaced it with no luck. Maybe the pcv valve needs replacing but I don't know where it is. Forgive my ignorance. TY
  • andrewmillerandrewmiller Member Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I am a 16 year old high school student thinking about buying a 1998 Dodge Dakota from a friend for 3000 dollars. Sounded like an excellent deal, the only problem is theres a whopping 170,000 miles on it. Right now it's running great for him, no problems. Just wondering if it would be a good deal to buy it, and if so then how long can I count on it for, and what can I do to make it last longer.
    Thanks much,
    Andrew :shades:
  • dakota8dakota8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 and the other night my headlights started flashing on and off as I was driving. The dome light also flashed but my brake lights and turn signals worked fine. The next night no troubles at all. then tonight it started again headlights flashing,dome light and then even my door locks stoped wroking and then locked by it's self . I even had the keys in my hand and it still did all of this.
    Now if I turn everything off and let it cool down a bit I can then start and use the headlights again untill it gets hot enough to start doing it again. Does anyone have any idea what is going on with my truck? Could it be that CTM thing I read about ? Has anyone else had this problem?
  • marcpmarcp Member Posts: 1
    I purchase a 2005 Dakota in June it has been to dealer now 7 times with a vibration I feel in floor and steering wheel all roads all speeds. Dealer balanced tires, then installed new tires, then installed rear axles and drums , then advised normal for that vehicle nothing they can do.. I filed lemon law complaint and their verdict is drives normal for road conditions. any advise out there I just want a vehicle that doesn't shake
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Price is too high by about $500. Life expectancy? Very hard to say but I wouldn't count on more than 1-2 years.
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    I'm about to flush the brake system on my 2000 Dakota, but I noticed in the manual that there is a special procedure for doing this on a truck with anti-lock brakes (I have the optional 4 wheel anti-lock). It states that you first do a regular flush (all 4 wheels, master cylinder, etc), then hook up to a DRB scan tool and run the procedure to flush out the antilock components (I guess it prompts you what action to take, like pumping/holding down the pedal at the right time, etc), then when that is completed you repeat the initial flush procedure. Has anyone either done this themselves, or had this maintenance performed for them? I was thinking I could do the flush myself and take it into a brake shop for the DRB part, then repeat the flush again myself. I'm not replacing any brake components, antilock or otherwise, so is this DRB part really necessary for just a straight system flush?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    With the optional 4-wheel antilock, the extra steps are needed to activate the ABS pump to purge the gunky fluid out of it.

    If you only bleed the 4 corners, then you are likely leaving water-infested fluid inside the ABS components.

    If you want a complete system flush then you really have no alternative.

    BTW: The ABS components are the most expensive parts of the braking system. Is it logical to "skip over" bleeding the most expensive parts?
  • ykcykc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Dakota with an electrical problem. It keeps blowing the A/C compressor/engine fan fuse, which cuts off the electricity to start the truck. I finally took it to a Dodge Dealership and they originally diagnosis ed the starter to be the problem. Well, 9 days later I have had it back to the dealership twice and they are now trying to figure it out by trial and error. They have unhooked the A/C compressor and asked me the drive it for a week to see if that is the culprit. It doesn't give me much faith in the dealership.

    Has anyone had a similar situation? Any advice?
  • pennelpennel Member Posts: 1
    Recently, the left-hand directionals stopped flashing. I checked the bulbs and found the left rear bulb burned out. I took the number from the bulb, and replaced it. Since then, I've had a problem with the left directionals. With the headlights off, signaling a left turn flashes all four lights. {The right side lights are dimmer.}. The odometer and radio display lights also flash,{when the directionals light the inside lights dim}. When the headlights are on, all four lights are lit, but they don't flash. I've checked the wiring for shorts, and found nothing. I've also replaced all four bulbs with no change, and I've changed the flasher with no change. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Oh, the truck is a 2000 Dakota with a 3.9 v=6 and 91000 miles on it. I bought the truck used 6 months ago, and have'nt had any trouble at all until now.
  • keith1981keith1981 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota v-6. Where is the pcv valve? I can't find it. Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here are 3 different types of thread-repair systems. If done properly any of these will privide new threads that are STRONGER than the original threads.

    http://www.hillcliff-tools.com/helicoil.html
    http://www.timesert.com/
    http://www.newmantools.com/recoil1.htm

    Many auto-parts stores will "rent out" a heli-coil kit for you to use. When you return it, you only pay for the parts you used.
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