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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have the factory service manual - Which engine do you have?
  • cnegleycnegley Member Posts: 6
    I have the 4.7 V-8
  • dakotaoffroaddakotaoffroad Member Posts: 2
    I've had my 02 dakaota club cab for almost a year now and it's stalling is only getting worse. the dealer "thinks" they might be able to fix it, but $250 for thinks doesn't fly with me. If anyone can shed some more light or experience with this problem my way it would be great.

    3.9l 4x4 club cab auto 101k
    The problem only really happens when the truck has warmed up to normal temp. It won't do it when i first start it when its cold. Normal driving doesn't seem to affect it, only when i'm at a stop and just touch the pedal lightly to move a bit, which is why this happens alot when i'm off roading, the engine will rev up a bit with the application of some fuel, from just depressing the pedal a small amount then releasing, then the revs drop to 500 or below and will ususally die. the only code stored in the computer is a P 0455, which i don't believe is related.
    Oh, and this happens more often then not when i'm in reverse.

    Any help or info would be awsom
    Thanks DJ
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have previously appended the step-by-step procedure for replacing sparkplugs in the 4.7L engine. (including suggested sparkplugs)

    Please search thru the forum archives for what you seek. Dont forget to check all 7 of the Dakota Forums.
  • mkelley1mkelley1 Member Posts: 6
    It is good to see more postings on the Dakota's vibration problems on the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Adm.)web site. If you haven't been to this site I encourage you to do so. Many cases of vibration problems throughout the country. Maybe Chrysler will acknowedge the problem if enough people address the issue.
  • cnegleycnegley Member Posts: 6
    Wow, that's what I need. The step by step procedure for replacing spark plugs in the 4.7 L engine. I don't know how to search thru the archives, and I don't know about the 7 Dakota Forums. Sorry if I'm a bit of a rookie. Would you consider giving me the link to the page your talking about, or otherwise providing me with that information?

    Sincerely,
    Carl Negley III
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Type the search terms you wish to use such as "change spark plugs" into the box on the top right of your screen that says "search this discussion"
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    look for message #1233 of this forum. I described the process which I followed the day after I did the job (so it was fresh in my mind)

    HERE IS THE LINK
  • nic3nic3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I recently purchased a used 2005 V8 Dodge Dakota with approximately 22,000 miles on it. It has a vibration. The 3 dealership service people have checked it over and say there is nothing wrong. I am being told that this is normal for a V8. Is this true? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 4.7L V8 is about as ssmmootthh as any V8 on the market. It should be nearly impossible to even tell the engine is running.

    Are you sure the vibration is not from the drivetrain? (U-joints, Driveshaft...etc)

    Think about these questions;
    Does this "vibration" change with engine speed...or ROAD speed?
    Does this "vibraton" change depending on whether you are accellerating or DEcellerating?
    What about at constant roadspeed?
    Is it worse at specific roadspeeds?
    Have you tried having the tires balanced?
    Are the brakes dragging?
  • nic3nic3 Member Posts: 2
    It only happens when I'm sitting still idling. It doesn't happen ALL the time, but MOST of the time it does. It is felt worse in the passenger seat. It feels like either a loose harmonic balance, a loose torque converter or a loose fan clutch. It doesn't matter whether its in drive, neutral or whether the a/c is on or off.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Try cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Controller) and the TB (Throttle Body)
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I have a 2000 Dak 4.7, which has been a solid performer. About 2 weeks ago the CEL came on and I bought a new gas cap and the light went off. It came back on while I was away this past weekend but turned off for a few hours over the weekend and then came back on and stayed on since Sunday. Today after running a few errands I decided ro go to Autuzone and get a scan but before I went in I decided to change gas caps again (both caps new) and the light went off and has been off all day. The truck is running absolutely fine. Anybody have any ideas?

    Ron
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    No need to go anywhere to "get a scan". Dodges have BUILTIN scanner.

    Without starting engine turn key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON... then leave ON. The odometer display will now show the diagnostics running and will display any errorcodes when complete. WRITE THEM DOWN.

    Look up the codes HERE or HERE or HERE
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Thanks for the advice bpeebles. I got a code of P0551, which I looked up and it indicated a power steering switch failure, it looks easy to replace based upon the FSM however I have no symptoms that anything is wrong with the power steering. Has anybody had any experience with this.

    Ron
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    According to my read the code is "Power Steering pressure sensor circuit range/performance. Nothing mentioned about a switch that I could find.
    This could be as simple as low on power steering fluid or as bad as a defective pump etc. Just means that something is not normal with the pressure sensor circuit.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I received 3 sets of code explanations from bpeebles, and one of them did have the explanation you offered. However another set did read "Power Steering Switch Failure".

    Ron
  • 98dodgeguy35098dodgeguy350 Member Posts: 1
    i just bought this truck used and the check engine light the washer fluid light and the gas light stay on and i dont know why please help also i need to know if anyone knows where i can get a owners manual for my 98 dodge dakota 4wd slt v.8 thanks

    joshua sandker
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Jpshua - Usually ebay is a good source for Factory Service Manuals at a good price.

    Ron
  • dakotaman1dakotaman1 Member Posts: 14
    HI Dusty, or anyone else who can please comment.

    I've read w/ interest the discussions about uneven pad wear, which I think is a perennial problem w/ the /97 Dakota.

    I did my first front axle brake job @ 36K, and the Left was massively UNeven (inside pad gone and wasted inside of rotor. You know the story. Right side set of pads were evenly worn and "normal' looking. (Replaced pads but rt. rotor was fine.)

    26K miles later, same song: repeat pattern on Left side; Right side even and "normal". I had Rt. rotor turned; new Left side rotor - AGAIN!

    Sounds like the real culprit here is the caliper assembly! My question is WHY? I've read variously that OEM Dakota calipers are WORSE than aftermarket. Any confirmation or :cry: explanations of this?

    Also, I believe Dusty mentioned tht post-2001, Dakota went w/ dual plumgers, whih may have alleviated this (distributing the force from both sides).

    Any comments or thoughts on this nagging problem are welcome!

    DakotaMan

    Bonus Q:
    Does anyone know the size of the front axle (spindle?) nut? 35mm? 36mm? Very curious ...
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    You need to check for a sticking piston in the caliper,
  • dakotaman1dakotaman1 Member Posts: 14
    I posted this message as a "reply" to a dated post (#4220; p.212); since no replies, I'm afraid it was buried. Here goes:

    HI Dusty, or anyone else who can please comment.

    I've read w/ interest the discussions about uneven pad wear, which I think is a perennial problem w/ the /97 Dakota.

    I did my first front axle brake job 36K, and the Left was massively UNeven (inside pad gone and wasted inside of rotor. You know the story. Right side set of pads were evenly worn and "normal' looking. (Replaced pads but rt. rotor was fine.)

    26K miles later, same song: repeat pattern on Left side; Right side even and "normal". I had Rt. rotor turned; new Left side rotor - AGAIN! :cry:

    Sounds like the real culprit here is the caliper assembly! My question is WHY? I've read variously that OEM Dakota calipers are WORSE than aftermarket. Any confirmation or explanations of this? :confuse:

    Also, I believe Dusty mentioned that post-2001, Dakota went w/ dual plumgers, whih may have alleviated this (distributing the force from both sides).

    Any comments or thoughts on this nagging problem are welcome!

    DakotaMan

    Bonus Q:
    Does anyone know the size of the front axle (spindle?) nut? 35mm? 36mm? Very curious ...
  • slededsleded Member Posts: 4
    hey guys im new this the board and i love it already!! i was wondering if anyone knew what that code means? i took the truck in the other day for the check engine light and it was the gas cap!! so he fixed it and today the check engine light came on again. i think its the gas cap but who knows hope u guys can help me out

    thanks

    eric
  • dritten01dritten01 Member Posts: 3
    this is my first post, and I am glad I found this site. I have a 2000 4.7 dakota 4x4. Check engine lite on with these codes, but my bigger problem is that all of a sudden a couple of weeks ago my truck is taking 2-3 cranks to get started. Once started it runs great. any ideas? I thought maybe a bad injector, but getting same fuel mileage. today I am also hearing a loud ticking for the first 5 min or so after starting. It eventually goes away
  • slededsleded Member Posts: 4
    just wondering when i should change the fluid on my 4.7 02 dakota. it has 85,000km on it and my buddy told me to change it twice a year? thanks guys
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Is it a manual or automatic transmission? If it is an automatic, then at either 30K of 60K miles. If you do any significant towing, then 30K. Otherwise, 60K miles.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    About 5 years ago in North Dakota, I bought a used 1990 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 L engine and automatic transmission with overdrive. My son and I drove it from to Minnesota then from there to Florida and back and left the pickup with my daughter who used it while spending the summer in Minnesota with my sister.

    The daughter had an episode of the pickup stopping on a highway within coasting distance of a garage and the crew there diagnosed a burned ignition switch and wires. When the daughter came back home, she "willed" the pickup to my nephew, my sister's son. He found trouble, eventually, with the pickup starting. There was battery power but the starter wouldn't engage or spin (not sure which: this is being posted from across the Atlantic!). A neighbor down the alley from my sister showed him how to get it started, and I quote my nephew:

    "As far as the electrical issues, it first seemed to have problems about 2 or 3 years ago in mid-winter. When I tried to start the truck, there would be battery power to the radio, lights, and everything like that but there would be no response by the engine whatsoever. The neighbor showed me that I could disconnect the battery from what I assumed was the starter, insert a simple copper wire into that connector, place the other end of the wire to a battery terminal with the key in the ON position and it would start the truck EVERY time. That worked every single time the truck wouldn't start until last winter when no there was no battery power."

    This sounds to me like a solenoid or a starter motor problem. Like I say, it is at my sister's and she has had it to service stations but hasn't got it going yet. She tells me the battery cables and connectors at the battery have been replaced, as well as the distributor cap.

    I thought I'd post this and see if anyone has seen the same problem, although I recognize that there isn't a lot of information being given to help with a diagnosis, never mind being sure what the problem is!
  • tiggerptiggerp Member Posts: 1
    Ok here is my problem. We replaced the thermostat on my 98 Dodge Dakota and now the fan won't come on to cool the engine. some one told us to replace the relay switch that makes the fan come on at a certain temp. Where is it located at we think it is by the thermostat houseing. Cause when we unplug it the fan comes on.
  • pauldak99pauldak99 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '99 dodge dakota and whenever it rains just the passenger floor leaks and forms a puddle,does anyone know what the problem is, i am in desperate need of an answer. :confuse:
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I recently posted that my check engine light had come on and that I had scanned code P0551 (Power steering sensor range/switch). I was about to purchase a new power steering switch when I decided to check the power steering fluid level, I discovered that it was slightly over filled (had the dealer change the fluid about 11 months ago) so I drained some fluid and erased the code. I have not had any further codes for the past 2 weeks. So checking the fluid level might be worthwhile if you are pulling this code.

    Ron
  • spillingvoidspillingvoid Member Posts: 5
    I put a magnum 318 inside my truck and did some modifications to it. Luckly it turns out my dad was expirienced in changing engines. :)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Bonus,

    My son had a '91 Dakota that now has close to 300,000 miles on it. In the nine years he owned the vehicle he never replaced either of the factory calipers. I have not seen any evidence that the factory calipers are of poor or faulty quality or design. There are bound to be a population of Dakotas and calipers that will fail, but I don't believe this happens at a greater rate than anything else I see or work on.

    You will find that aftermarket calipers utilize the same piston housing (since it's an OEM piece). The quality of the piston and seal materials can and do sometimes vary, but here I find the factory stuff just as good as the best aftermarket.

    Assuming the seals are good and the piston and piston bore is clean, the caliper slide bolts are clean, lubricated and free of pitting, there is one item most overlooked.

    There are only two ways that a piston will become stuck in the applied position. One, if the caliper is binding on the slide bolts and not returning to the unapplied position; or two, if pressure remains in the caliper housing keeping the pads applied.

    When I see this scenario of only one caliper remaining applied on older vehicles I find that the brake hose from the caliper to the metal line is the cause. What happens is over time the rubber brake hose material begins to break down and effectively deteriorates on the inside. As it breaks down the rubber swells and closes the inside diameter of the hose to the point that it becomes completely closed up when there is no brake fluid pressure.

    In this state when brake fluid pressure is applied the pressure force opens the inside of the hose enough to permit normal braking, but when the brake pedal is released the hose collapses internally trapping fluid under low pressure. This pressure is usually enough to force movement of the piston(s) and drag the pad on the rotor.

    This back pressure on one rotor may not be noticeable as you drive, but under constant low pressure the pads drag enough to cause accelerated pad and rotor wear. You might also see a rotor "warp" on the affected side prematurely.

    My advice: since it sounds like you've been struggling with this issue for a while, replace the rubber brake hose(s) and see what happens. Make sure the caliper slide bolts are in good condition. Replace them if there is any signs of corrosion. It's a cheap insurance.

    One other thing about brake maintenance. Over time brake fluid in the master cylinder will absorb moisture. This moisture gets pumped downstream in the system, where it can cause internal rusting of the lines and other brake components. I know this isn't done very often, but flushing the brake system and replenishing with new fluid will go a long way in preventing future brake problems.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty

    P.S. I've been away for a number of reasons, but mostly my stinking RoadRunner service has caused me to be incommunicado. It now appears to be fixed -- for the moment!
  • jwctrainjwctrain Member Posts: 4
    Dusty, I took your advice and changed the fluid. I put in
    Valoline full syn for limited slip difs and after a day the noise disappeared. Strange that the dealership did not suspect this when I asked them to check it. Thanks for your help. John
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2000 dakota 6 cyl automatic. When I first start the thing and take off with it, it is doggy and wont take the gas. It dies out and bucks and back-fires. Sometimes I can get it to come out of it by mashing the pedal to the floor until the passing gear kicks in and then let off it when it finally goes, but sometimes it wont work. Sometimes it just needs to go through its fit and then it will straighten out. Once I get it going, it will run fine as long as I dont shut it off and let it sit for a while. It also seems knumb on the acceleration when it is "running right", compared to my friends dakota. I have spent over a 1000 bucks at the garage trying to get it fixed. Mechanic says it is not showing any codes and he cant figure it out either. I trust this guy and have had 20 years of satisfied service from him. So far we have changed battery, complete tune up,O2 sensor, pcv valve, among other things. We are both pulling our hair out and I am going BROKE!!! Someone please help!!
  • redjlybeanredjlybean Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: Have a question someone help me. I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V-6 with 64500 miles. The tranny seems to slip when up shifting and it idles ruff. The RPM gauge jumps between 800 and 900. There also seems to be some weird noise coming from some wear cant figure it out sounds like an bearing not a belt. Also it has no power when it is at normal freeway speed (60). Also when it is at normal speed it drives ruff and seems to want to die. Also when I go from drive to reverse to park the rpms jump to like 1200 and drop to 500 then to normal sometimes it drops so low it will suddenly die but start right back up. I know that is a lot but I dont want to go into a shop and get a huge bill for nothin someone give me some ideas to go on. This truck has low miles and I dont think it is something major.
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    If you figure it out, let me know. Mine is a 2000 with 80,000 miles and it does the same thing. When I last had it in the shop, there was another one there with the same problem and the mechanic said he has no idea what the problem is. I am going to try a fuel filter myself and go from there.
  • pccrwpccrw Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know what the problem is? I have a 1997 that is doing the same thing exactly.
  • nedbrodnedbrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Dakota, V8 motor, 4WD. Truck has 168,000 miles and still running strong. The check engine light comes on intermittently and OBD scan reads purge solenoid fault. Checked out all hoses between carb, canister, and fuel fill neck...all are clean and tight. Voltage is correct on plug to purge solenoid, it opens and closes when voltage is cycled and does not leak or stick open. Is it possible that the canister is shot? It looks fine hanging on the frame and I could not find any leaks in it when pressurized. The last time the check engine lamp came on was while I was sitting in the darn inspection station! Any ideas on this...I'm going crazy! Thanks.
  • dakjakdakjak Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem on my 2000 QC 2x4. The clutch would make a squeeking/rubbing sound when depressed. Sound would start after repeated use in traffic especially when hot outside. Solution was to replace clutch slave cylinder. I had to request this at the dealer; they didn't know what is was. Replaced slave at 80k and squeek hasn't returned - I have 90k now.
  • sjrustsjrust Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about getting a cold air intake on my 98 std cab. I was wanting to know how effective they are and if the y really do increase the mpg. Also when I come to any kind of a halt in 1st it immediately dies (im driving a stickshift). Any ideas? Thanks.
  • keith1975keith1975 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dakota, 3.9L, V6. I have added several aftermarket items: headers, cold-air intake, dual exhaust, computer chip, throttle body spacers, and more. But, I have had this little problem that has grown. I have taken it to many different places to be checked out. Finally, we track down the problem. 2 codes, P1491 and P0138. Now, the mechanic thinks it is either the computer or a wiring problem with the downstream O2 sensor. If it is the computer, how much do they usually run for, money wise? The truck is paid off and only has 65000 miles. My last Dakota had 105700 miles before it passed away. Is it worth the hassle?
    Thanks
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    my mom has a 1999 dakota, 3.9l v6 2WD with an automatic transmission that is acting up. It seems strange to us that it is having problems because it only has 74,000 miles on it. For some odd reason the transmission sometimes will not shift out of first gear. We took it up to the mountains a while back and i got to drive (yay!) on the mountain roads all the way to the main road. When we switched drivers and started on our way it revved up to almost 5,000 RPM before my mom and i felt there was something wrong. We had to pull over and go again and this time it did shift but only after it was revved and my momlet off the gas. Then the check engine light came on.The rest of the gears shifted OK but abnormaly harsh. Now it does this every time almost.
    Has anyone ever had this problem and is there anyone with the slightest idea? oh yeah we had the tranny flushed and it didnt help
  • trapezecdntrapezecdn Member Posts: 13
    UPDATE.

    Still not fixed.... I went to the dealership and looked at the schematics with the broken spring in hand. The parts man and I came to the conclusion that it was a $2 spring and ordered it. 1 week later the "part" came in. It was 10 times larger and nothing like the diagram we looked at. Parts guy checked with other dealers and various supervisors and was told it was the right part. At least parts guy was intelligent enough to realize that they were idiots. I eventually took pictures of the problem and the perceived malfunctioning part, as well as the broken spring and e-mailed it to parts guy who sent it up the ladder. 3 months later we have confirmed that the Chrysler parts list is bogus, and are waiting on the parts manufacturer to send the entire seat back mechanism so we can remove the little spring from the mechanism to install on my seat.

    Why is it we have to do their jobs for them?

    Any suggestions for removing the bench seat and fixing this? I feel I need to replace the seat foam as well. After 144000 miles it seems a little worn out. Any suggestions?
  • lyleblyleb Member Posts: 1
    2000 Dak Club SLT 3.9 AT 2wd - Recently, my cruise control has ceased functioning and whenever I accelerate with the air conditioner on, the air stops blowing through the vents on the front of the dash. The A/C thing seemed like it might be vacuum related so started looking into that. Saw that vacuum diagram under hood indicated that there should be a vacuum line that went to some controller that interacted with both A/C and cruise. Ah ha! I thought, I'll solve both problems at once. But guess what...there's no vacuum line where it says there should be; just a capped off outlet from the intake. Anybody got any ideas? Are these two things related in some way or just coincidental? I had replaced the rear differential speed sensor a while back and thought that might have something to do with the cruise control problem, but all other issues were corrected (ABS light & speedo) so I thought it probably was not a factor. Maybe finding the vacuum diagram that seemed to indicate a relationship between the two problems has got me headed down a rabbit trail. Thanks in advance for assistance. :confuse:
  • reloader7reloader7 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 dodge dakota and i'm getting water on the passenger side floor, it's not anti-freeze though,it must be coming from the air conditioner,but can't tell exactly where,any thoughts
  • tinasmith71tinasmith71 Member Posts: 3
    :cry: I just put a new instrument cluster face on my 2004 Dodge Dakota. Yeh, I got suckered into buying one of those with the flames on it that glow at night when the lights are turned on. Anyway, I did everything right with removing original cluster sticker, taking out all the needles, and replacing them after the new cluster face was put on. After driving a bit I noticed all the instruments worked except the gas gage. The needle wasn't moving and I knew I had already used up half a tank. So I took the dash, panel, ect. off again thinking the needle may have been pushed down to far and was getting stuck, Well, I put the needle back on making sure there was room between the needle and panel, drove the truck again and this time the needle moved about a quarter tank down and stopped. Is there anyway to just fix the gas gage some how or do I have to buy a whole new cluster panel? I spent 85$ on this stupid flame face (although it looks really cool) but I don't want to have to replace the whole cluster because then I also loose the flames that I just bought. Any suggestions
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Check the drain tube...sounds like it is either off or plugged up.
  • tinasmith71tinasmith71 Member Posts: 3
    So you don't think it has anything to do with the instrument cluster itself? I was just afraid that I may have messed up the wiring behind the panel.
  • di99di99 Member Posts: 18
    Posted reply on wrong forum, so don't know if you saw it.
    99 Olds Intrigues with same problem...water leaking onto floor passenger side front.Dealer finally sealed ?cowl vent on passenger side, I think.
    Check Olds Intrigue Problems forum and you should find answer to problem, if you haven't already.
    Good luck! Di
  • army_girlarmy_girl Member Posts: 1
    I just got back from the middle east and went and picked up my new Dodge Dakota 2006 with a 3.7 V8 Magnum. It had 8 miles on it when I picked it up. I had a professional installer come out and put a new stereo, speakers and an alarm on it. Now the car will not turn over without me giving it a good strong foot on the gas pedal when I go to crank it. I also drove it around the neighborhood late last night and when I give it gas it chokes, bucks and sputters. The check engine light is flashing too. He said there was a computer in the factory stereo that if you completely disconnect it - will eventually blow up the engine. It controls a lot of things inthe gauage and engine area - so if you rip out the factory stereo on this new dodge - youcan cuase a lot of major destruction!! So he hooked up the old stereo and placed it under the back seat so that computer would still be up and running. Brand new truck and now I can not drive it because it bucks and the engine light is flashing all the time. Hope someone can help shed light on the issue.
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