Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

davids1 · February 2001

What's a "whine honey"? Curious minds want to know.

henne · February 2001

i was talking about tsb not tab and its a whiney hiney. my rear end has been fixed 3 times and its going back in for the 4th time for the whine from the rear diff and a idle prob that this new tsb is supposed to fix.

robert

yank2 · February 2001

I have had mine in four times and no luck. DC needs better Parts changers my Dealer has only kids.

victx · February 2001

I've got the 4x4 with skid plates and went ahead and ordered the drain valve and adapter. When I was installing on my last oil change, I was trying to understand why the adapter is necessary. I closely compared the thread on the adapter to the thread on the valve. They seemed to be the same depth, the same diameter. I could find no differences. The fumoto literature states the adapter was required because of a "recessed oil pan". I installed mine w/o the adapter and had no problem. I didn't want this valve sticking out any more than it has to.

bpeebles · February 2001

This TSB calls for a re-programming of the ECU (EngineControlUnit...aka...computer)

Although the idle problem are addressed in this flash of the ECU.. there is also a 4 degree retard of the ignition timing too. (To reduce pinging under load that some people have experienced)

This retard of timing will ABSOLUTELY reduce the peak horsepower of your engine. The advertised HP when you bought it will no longer be. Expect 5-20 HP loss.

ozark · February 2001

Hello, everyone. It has been awhile since I posted but I've been lurking and reading over the past six months to a year.

My 4x4 Quad Sport has developed a loud squeaking(not popping) noise that seems to be coming from the front suspension. I can even stand on the step bars and make the truck make the noise. It normally occurs when going over bumps and it is loud enough to hear over the engine noise, particularly at low speeds. I have 33,000+ mostly road miles on the truck that was delivered March,2000. I've enjoyed the truck so far but I'm starting to get a little nervous. I will be calling the dealer next week to set up an appointment, but I would appreciate hearing from any of you who have had similar problems. Were they corrected satisfactorily?

I read all the posts in this folder and used bpeeples' links (thank you) to the NHTSA site that contained the TSBs and Recalls but I wasn't sure if any applied. Number 130100 might apply. Should I mention this to the dealer? I would appreciate any help.

I too have had problems with the brakes developing a pulsating feeling when the pedal is applied. I will ask the dealer about this but I realize that the truck is nearly out of the 36,000 mile warranty and they will probably do nothing.

I bought the truck at a dealer that is about 100 miles from here so taking it in means taking off work for a day. I would like to be prepared when I get there and would like to be well armed when I hear "Oh, that just a normal sound for this model." In other words I don't want to have to make several trips. There are other Dodge dealers nearby but I assume they would be reluctant to work on the truck if I didn't buy it from them. It this a good assumption? The dealer I bought if from prides itself on its service department. I guess I'll see.

Any input would be appreciated.

mailman54 · February 2001

Ozark: I too bought my truck from a dealer quite a distance from home, but was pleasantly surprised when the local dealer had no qualms about working on it and gave me good service. That's the way it is supposed to work, but then I have had the opposite happen also in the past. Just depends on how much they want business. It's worth a try anyway.

Mailman

bpeebles · February 2001

Get that pulsating brake pedal looked at soon. The front rotors are known to warp under some conditions (lugnuts overtightened / severe braking then going thru a water-puddle...etc)

The brakes are technically only waranteed for 12 months!!!
(not the 3 years as the rest of the vehicle is)

greeno · February 2001

How can I get the latest TSB's about my 2000 Dakota? Do you have to go to the dealer to get a copy of them? I have the same problems with Tranny dipstick not seating and rough idle when stopping after highway. Thanks.

bookitty · February 2001

Chris, below is a site for TSB's for various manufacturers of automobiles. Hope that this is what you are looking for. I do not have a URL for Dodge Dakota specifically.

Bookitty

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy1.cfm

bobsyvee · February 2001

There is no site to go to to get an actual TSB. The NHTSA site gives a listing of reported problems, but this doesn't necessarily mean that a TSB has been issued. I believe "ALLDATA" has a service ($$) for consumers to get TSBs. DC will also sell them to you. I believe there was an earlier post with the website for obtaining a service manual. (must be as I went there) The TSB service along with a binder is on the list of products available.

BTW, at the NHTSA site the vehicle make is "Dodge Truck". Entering "Dodge" only will give you the listings for cars.
JimH

mopar67 · February 2001

I also have a 4.7 and I learned that the idle will drop down when in DRIVE at a stoplite, THis is due to emissions related functions. Actually a cyclinder cuts out to keep CO and hydrocarbons within specs.

mopar67 · February 2001

I had the same issue. It took a program update to the PCM to fix this. Actually, it affected all vehicles with the 4.7 engine. It took three days for the PCM to relearn, after that no problems. Mention a TSB to your dealer on this, make him go to the listings on his computer. It will be there. IF not, call Chrysler direct, they will make sure the dealer knows about it.
I am not aware of the timing being retarded 4 degrees. I notice no loss of power or gas mileage. THen again, I never had pinging problems and I never use cut rate gas. Keep this in mind: Just because it says Sunoco, Exxon, or whatever, is NO guarantee that you are getting branded gas there. I saw a cut rate tanker once fill up and AMOCO station back in Indiana, where I grew up. I called Amoco and was told that each station was independently owned and operated and therefore free to use whatever bulk gas supplier to provide gas that "meets" the specifications of the parent company.
Bottom line, you may not always be getting what you are paying for. Problem is, how do we prove that? What exactly differentiates Exxon Amoco, Sunoco, or Gulf gas from cut rate gas?

ahasher · February 2001

mopar67, exactly! it happens in DRIVE and i believe the dealer only looks at it in PARK. I really hate letting someone work on my rig when I cant be there to help identify the symptoms. I asked the service people about it yesterday and he says he knows one is out their and he will get back with me (standard reply, I guess). I am relieved you have my symptoms and was happy with the results of the repair (PCM update). A rough idle at a stop sign in not pleasant, especially with passengers, and you are trying to be proud of your ride.
As far as gas, I agree fully. I have had NO pinging, and use only Chevron or Citgo (known home stations) 87 octane, except for a tank or 2 of 89 to deal with my idle issue.
I will post results of the TSB PCM issue once i can educate my service manager on how to research his own bulletins :-) based o my education from this forum.

Thanks again for the info.. Please let me (us) know if anything changes with your idle now that you have had it changed for a while... i hate recurrences.

Bill

ohc_baby · February 2001

If anyone's interested, I finished my writeup on the Fuel Pump Kill I've built for my 5-spd 4.7. You can download it at
www.fast4x4.net/fuelpumpkill.zip

Let me know if anyone has any questions or wants to build one.

bcarter3 · February 2001

Was there a solution posted for the dipsticks that would not seat properly in the tube? I read all posts religously but may have missed something when my computer was down for a month. I asked the local service manager and was told that he had not heard of the problem. I didn't have my truck with me at the time. I have the 4.7 w/auto. The dipstick feels like it goes all the way in but when released it springs back about 3/4". It may be a normal condition, but something I've never seen before. My main concern is the correct servicing of the fluid. Love this truck!!!!

bookitty · February 2001

Byron, early on in the first Dakota discussions in Edmund's "Pickups" topic there were several posts regarding the problem that you had spoken of in your post. This was in regard to the 2000 Dakota with the 4.7. There were various solutions posted such as taping around the tube to increase the friction CO-efficiency, but I cannot remember other approaches as I did not experience that particular problem. Hope this helps. You can search the archives.

Bookity

bcarter3 · February 2001

The fact that some owners do not have this problem leads me to believe that it is not normal. I guess I'll drop by the dealer and get them involved. That's after I pry my daughter's hands off my Dakota steering wheel!!!

slickwilliedj · February 2001

if you look at the didpstick you'll notice it has a rubber seal around it and seals in the tube after in springs back.you should feel some resistance fron the rubber seal...

zonk · February 2001

I have a question regarding the noise I hear when shifting at a stop: I hear a buzzing noise when shifting from Park to Reverse or Neutral to Reverse or Drive. I shift and I hear the buzz as I complete the shift. Fluid level is ok. Can anyone tell me what it is?

mailman54 · February 2001

zonk: If you have an auto, there is a TSB out on the problem from shifting from Park or Drive to Reverse and back. I copied down the info when I read the post. The info is as follows:

TSB # 212099
NHTSA Item # SB6089792
Bulletin Sequence # 608
Date of TSB: 9911

TSB is applicable to the 46RE Auto Transmission

mopar67 · February 2001

Zonk, be aware that since Chrysler went to electronic control on the transmissions (this started with the Ultradrive in 1989) almost all Mopar automatices will do the bzzzzz tick thing when you slow down and the trans downshifts thru the gears. You will also hear this when you shift from R to D or vice versa. This is normal. It is due to solenoids and clutch packs engaging and disengaging.
I have the 45RFE, my pop had an Intrepid, I once had two INtrepids and all those vehicles made the same noise.

mopar67 · February 2001

One more thing on the idle issue. My AIS motor (which controls the idle speed) was defective and that also was replaced PRIOR to the PCM upgrade. As I said before, since the PCM upgrade no problems and that was 2000 miles and 3 months ago.
SInce then I have upgraded the lousy stock air filter with a K&N filter. I now get one more MPG in town, and two more MPG on highway (around 19 MPG at 70 mpg with AC on).
Again, I would advise you literally ride with the service manager, get the truck up to operating temperature and go thru town and see if it will stall out. Bet you a million bucks if he rides with you he will see what you are talking about.

zonk · February 2001

to mailman54 and mopar67 for the responses to my tranny noise question! I do have an auto. Can't really say I have heard as it downshifts when moving since I normally have my windows up. It just caught my ear when I was idling in an enclosed area as I worked the gears. My wife has a JGC 6 cylinder auto and I will check to see if hers does it, too.

slickwilliedj · February 2001

Service Bulletin Number: 212099
Bulletin Sequence Number: 608
Date of Bulletin: 9911
NHTSA Item Number: SB6089792
Make: DODGE TRUCK
Model: DAKOTA
Year: 2000
Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:UNKNOWN TYPE
Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING 46RE TRANSMISSION SHIFT QUALITY IMPROVEMENT FOR A DRIVE - REV -
DRIVE SHIFT MANEUVER. *TT ******this only applies to the 2000 yr dakota.*********

mmanlove · February 2001

I have a 2000 club cab I purchased this past June. The first rain I found about an inch of water on the drivers side floor. Dealer took it and claimed they fixed the leak with a new window seal. According to other posts here, that's a known problem. I waited a month to be sure it wouldn't leak again, then had them replace the carpet.
All seemed well until this past December, when after a couple rainy days there was 2-3 inches of water, this time on the passenger side. The carpet pad is soaked and I'm sure it's getting wet every time it rains, but it might not be showing through unless it really rains. The dealer doesn't want to fix it, claiming my after market front speakers caused the problem (installed during the time between the first leak and the carpet being replaced). The installer put in the rain guards just like the originals, and I had the truck back to them after the dealer blamed them so they could test it out themselves. Physically, there is no way the water can come in through the speakers as the dealer claims. Also, the speakers are mounted on MDF, and if you know what MDF is, you know it swells to twice its size and falls apart if you get a drop of water on it. Well, no sign of ever being wet. That totally shoots the dealers theory down. They are just looking for a way to blow me off. Unfortunately, the dealer will no longer attempt to fix the leak, since they are blaming it on the stereo guys. Anyone have any ideas or other experiences similar to this?
Thanks.

bmwjoe · February 2001

I would look in your manual and take it to the next person up the chain of command at Chrysler.

Drive Safe,

Joe

cmacd3 · February 2001

I have a 00 Dakota ext cab 4X4 with the 4.7l with 8000 miles. My city mileage is horrible, between 9-12 mpg under mellow driving. The highway only miles seem normal averaging around 17-18? my dealer recently flashed my computer, but there doesnt seem to be any difference. With overall average is 12mpg? Any ideas...

spike50 · February 2001

Years ago, I had a very wet carpet on the driver's side of a Volvo wagon. Turned out to be the condensate from the air conditioner wasn't making to the outside of the vehicle through its drain tube.

Have no idea where the drain tube is on a Dak but I know that the AC on my '00 runs all of the time and the I hear the sizzle of condensate dripping on to the exhaust when I park it - mostly summer when higher level of moisture in air. You would have higher moisture in air during your rain storms. Just an alternate idea.

weebedna · February 2001

does anyone know how to remove body side moulding (adhesive press on) w/out damaging the paint?
just had some put on and it looks horrible...

thanks

ohc_baby · February 2001

The trick to getting the molding off is the use of WD-40 and dental floss. Put the truck in the sun, run WD-40 down the length of the top of the moldings, then use the dental floss to 'saw' your way down the door. It won't harm the paint or anything and will separate the adhesive from either the door or the molding. Just go back when you're done and clean up the bits of adhesive, then wax.

mopar67 · February 2001

FYI to all in this discussion. Some of us are getting to the mileage limit for changing the transmission fluid and filter. And I just wanted to share some information that can mean the difference between a fluid/filter change and a new transmission.
Only use Mopar type 7176 ATF+ as the fluid in your trans. Even if its a pint low or something, DRIVE 20 minutes to you dealer or another Dodge dealer and get the proper fluid. DO NOT use Dexron fluid of any kind (ITs spelled Dexron not Dextron)
Why? Dexron fluid is a "grabbier" fluid. It will cause the clutches to tighten up severely and then the trans controller will back off the pressure. The fluid will then make the clutch packs grab and then the cycle will repeat itself over and over and over. WHat you will feel is a shudder on upshift or down shift, either of which is BAD news. Don't trust the local yokels to use the right fluid. I've seen for myself some of these places use whatever is "in the can" with no regard as to what really belongs in your transmission.
Don't fall into the mindset "Its all the same stuff, it don't matter." I know way back on the 727, 904 and baby 904 you could use Dexron (not Dextron) and it was fine. But that was then and this is now.
Proof positive: Neighbor had a full size Ram 1500 with the 46RFE trans. Did his own fluid and filter change. 3,000 miles later, he is bitching up a storm that his tranny doesn't shift right and it won't shift into lockup. Brings it over to me. I tramp down to my local mopar dealer, get the 7176 ATF+ fluid, a filter. Go back, dump the old stuff, run the new, proper fluid in it.
That was two years ago, my neighbor still has the truck, trans shifts fine and no more will he go to Wal Mart to get "whatever" looks like trans fluid.
Part two: Same situation but Uncle had a minivan. Took it to the 19.95 grease lube station in town. The put Dexron (not DEXTRON) in the trans. 1200 miles later, time for a new tranny.
DOn't let ANYONE [non-permissible content removed] you on this. I am dead serious. For more information and more technical stuff, go to ALLPAR.COM and head for the transmission section. Read the other stories there. Then commit it to memory: Use 7176 ATF+ fluid in your mopar trans and it will go thousands of miles for you.

bluebayou · February 2001

I just checked the Allpar website and they said to use type 9606 fluid for years 2000 and above.

Do you agree with that statement for the multispeed mated to the 4.7?

srn · February 2001

I have a 93 Dakota LE with intermittent wipers and all that on it. About 3 weeks ago, during a rainstorm, the wipers just quit. Nothing, not a single wiggle out of the wipers. Being that wipers don't get a real workout in AZ, I've put off fixing them for a bit. Well now the turn signals don't work! If I push the lever up and down the appropriate lights come on (left or right front/rear signals) but it doesn't flash, it just stays on. On the other hand, the hazards work fine. All the fuses are good. So where do I go from here? Any ideas where to start would be great.

srn

mopar67 · February 2001

Yes, that is correct. I neglected to note that in my diatrabe and many thanks for pointing that out. I also confirmed that with my service manager at my friendly dodge dealer.

bookitty · February 2001

Scott, I will address only the turn signal problem at this point. It is quite possible, that you are experiencing two separate problems. The "flasher can" for the hazard four way flashers is not the same one utilized for the turn signals.
The fact that you are getting lights on either side from activating the lever indicates that there is some contact there. Check the "flasher can" by using another if you have a spare, or try the can from the four ways. The wiper problem could be the motor, which can be checked out by applying current directly. If you don't know how, find someone who does. Good luck.

Bookitty

scottieeck · February 2001

Chris,
I have a 2000 qc 4.7 4wd and my mileage is about the same as yours, suburban driving. My truck has the full time 4wd option. From what I have gathered from this forum, that has some significant effect on your mileage. I don't know if your truck has this "feature", but I don't think that mileage is too far out of the norm for what type of drivetrain I'm operating. Perhaps some wiser ( or at least more wizened ) heads could chime in.
I HOPE my truck isn't too abnormal ;-)
drive safely!
scottie

amend1 · February 2001

Bluebayou- When you did the fluid changes on the trannys, were you able to access the fluid in the converter and, if so, how?? I'm going to assume your fluid changes only refer to dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Thanks for the VERY important info- it has been brought up before on this forum and you have written it in stone.

bluebayou · February 2001

amend1 - I have yet to do any of the tranny service described herein. I believe that "MOPAR67" was the savior of many transmissions. I'm sure he can describe the procedures in more detail.

mopar67 · March 2001

Go to www.allpar.com. This is a site totally dedicated to Mopars, both old and new. You have to dig, but click on the transmission link, and go forward about two pages. There you will find a plethora of information on mopar transmissions.Read it carefully. Those people there are VERY experienced in transmissions. BTW there is a place back in Indiana called A&A transmission. Rick Allison owns theplace and he has built more mopars than anyone except Chrysler. And he knows Mopars inside and out. I have confirmed with him all the information on ALLPAR.com. He verified exactly the information there.
Best Wishes.

bikenut · March 2001

I have a new 4X4 lsd, cc. 4.7 manual, and being cheap I opted not to get the tilt wheel, because I didn't want cruise for $250. Anyway, does anyone have the non-tilt wheel, and figured a way to lower it? I'm wondering if all of the trucks have the same steering column, and the non- tilts lack the adjust lever. I don't necessarily want it to be easily adjustable, I want to lower it about 3/4 inch and leave it there. The truck is great, but a little too quiet! Thanks in advance.

henne · March 2001

well after 3 rebuilds of my rearend because of whinning. they are finally putting a all new rearend in on tuesday. i hope it will be ok. also gonna get the oil fill tsb, the 4.7 idle tsb and fix a few odds and ends.

so far my dealer and my DC rep has been fantastic. they even asked me if i was going to try and do a buy back and i decided not to. i love the truck, dont want to pay the difference because of milage and they have handled and have promised to continue to handle any issue. yippieeeeee!!!!!!!!!

ill update all after new rear is in, good luck all.

Robert

jimt · March 2001

The wiper problem may not be electrical. If you can hear the motor run it is posible the plastic fitting that connects the linkage under the windshield cowl has broken. Discount auto, Pep Boys, etc. carries universal Chrysler fittings for a dollar or so. This was cause of wiper failure on my 92 Dakota. Good luck, JimT

ahasher · March 2001

mopar67, thanks for your info. 2 questions for you. can you tell me where the AIS motor is located? and can I tell if it is defective before i bring it in? And, do you have a record of the TSB # for the PCM upgrade? I am having problems getting info on which one so i can do my service managers job for him.
I CANT believe i have to go thru this much trouble for an idle problem, but I am getting tired of this annoying and embarrassing condition... you know.. wife or friends in the rig.. SMOOTH acceleration... awesome highway performance. then.. I slow to a stop and rumble\rumble\chug\rumble\ etc.. away goes the smile :-(

mopar67 · March 2001

the AIS motor is located on the driver's side of the throttle body. It looks like a round black cylinder about 1 1/2 inches long and about 1 inch around. Its right by the throttle plate. Wish I could send a pic to you on this, then you would have no problem finding it. Also, how to determine if its defective, I don;t know what us shadetree mechanics can do. What your dealer should do, is take your truck overnight, go out the next morning when it is cold, hood up the scan tool, start your truck and monitor the "steps" of the AIS motor. IF you notice when you start your truck, the motor sort of revs up a bit, the little by little will drop down to about 600-650 idle when cold. Bear in mind, when you are totally up to operating temperature, and in Drive at a stop light, the idle will drop to as low as 500 RPM. Two reasons for this. 1. Chrysler actually believes it saves fuel at idle, (FYI my dads intrepid with 2.7 v-6 does the same thing) and 2. Two cylinders actually "cut out" and the timing gets retarted several degrees. Reason for this is to cut down on Hyrdrocarbon emissions & CO emissions at idle. However, as you say, it should NOT stall or quit.
Question 2; On the TSB, I will dig out my old work order on that or if I cannot find it, then I will contact my service rep at Preston Dodge and ask them for it and send it on to you on this board. For the life of me, I cannot remember what the number was, but will find it.
When you get the TSB, go into your dealer and if need be, just be a total pain in the [non-permissible content removed] until the service manager plops down in front of his computer and looks it up. I am shocked and disappointed that your dealer has no knowledge of this. Sounds to me like they are playing your fiddle in the hope you will go away.
Just thought of something, where do you live? I live in PA and perhaps it is a cold climate thing. If you are down south somewhere, perhaps Chrysler never thought that this would affect warm climate drivers? Just a thought.

steve234 · March 2001

I have found that you are full of good advise, but I have to disagree with you about 'two cylinders cutting out'. I have talked to several mechanics that I know and they say someone is feeding you a line. First off, while DC might want to keep emissions down, the idle would be so rough as to have customers complaining continually and wanting adjustments. My Quad at hot idle is very smooth running. I would suspect that the problem is actually a timing problem. I do not know about the DC engines, but I have seen it at a GM garage I once worked at and it happened on my F150. The timing is set by aligning marks on the harmonic balancer. Sometimes things are not installed properly and the marks are not exactly where they should be. My F150 would ping on premium until I found a dealer that checked the actual TDC (top dead center) and then reset the timing marks. Unfortuneately, most mechanics accept the marks as gospel and make excuses to get out of something they don't want or have the ability to do.

mopar67 · March 2001

Not sure which engine you have but the 4.7 does cut out two cylinders or so I am told by two mechanics and the service manager at PReston Dodge. I suppose the only way to know for sure would be to look at a service manual short of contacting a powertrain engineer.
This is something I hope to clairfy. Like you, I have no problems now that the AIS motor was replaced and the PCM flashed. Prior to that, my problems were exaclty like that of what ashasher described.

mopar67 · March 2001

FYI. the 4.7 does not have a distributor like the 318/360. Timing is controlled by the PCM

bpeebles · March 2001

(mopar67) I have the BOB and have read it cover-to-cover several times. The 4.7L V8 Hemi does not cut any cylinders for idling.

Perhaps your sources were refering to the cutting of the injectors during decelleration. This function was implemented for several reasons

Reduces raw fuel getting into the catalyst.
Improved engine-braking
Better MPG
Reduced backfiring (Backfiring is burning fuel in the exhaust manifold)

The injectors are turned back on around 1000 RPM. This can be felt under some conditions as one decellerates and the RPMs fall below 1000.

2nddak · March 2001

Someone stopped me the otherday in my 4.7 qc and wanted to know what kind of mileage I got. (12-15 local, and 18.5 on trips). The proceded to tell me that I could have got a Mercedes V8 in the truck for a $2K option. Claimed it gets 17 local and 25 on trips. Also said a friend had one in his quad. I told him that he was fed a line but he says, "no, you have to ask the dealer specifically for that option. I couldn't convince him otherwise. I hope he goes in and tries to buy one. 2nddak

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions