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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I'm considering getting one, but only if it will boost horsepower w/out any negative side effects...
1. Most of these systems don't have a hose to pull cold air thru the side of the engine bay to the filter. Won't this cause the system to just pull in hot air from inside the engine bay (especially in slow stop/start driving)?
2. Isn't there a possibility of the filter getting soaked w/water during wet conditions/off road?
3. For just the intakes (not throttle body), won't this cause warranty problems?
4. I see systems w/steel and ABS hoses. Are the ABS hoses able to tolerate the heat?
thanks for any help....
It is a bible of sorts because it has technical explinations of the operation of virtually every device on the vehicle. It is FAR superiour to the Clymer or Haynes manuals that try to cover many years of vehicles in one small book. The BOB is specifically for ONE model year and is over 3 inches thick.
I always ask the salesman to "throw in" the shop manual as I am closing the deal... they do not want to loose a sale so they agree. You can get one by ordering the PartNumber for it found in the back of your owners manual. (about $100)
Why is it called BOB? ... because of its color (Big Orange Book)
Whatever the color, the book is good. I always get a manual for every vehicle.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Bpeebles, may you always be on this forum. I think I can learn a lot from you.
One last question for you... what i used to refer to as 'curb" idle or as steve234 says "hot" idle is 500 RPM ?? is this correct? That seems low for the V8. My 2000 dash has the hack marks so it appears my idle is 500 or a bit lower when fully warmed up.. although on occasion it appears to hover at 600 or a bit higher (no real rough idle at this RPM). I hope I am not rambling, but with each post I feel I am learning valuable info on my 4.7.. do I get college credit for this?? LOL THANKS for your input!
Bill
ANd yes, I agree that 500 seems low for curb idle but recall curb idle is idle in either neutral or park. (If memory serves me correct Mopar always said check curb idle in neutral but that was long ago)
Refer to BPEEBLES as he has the factory service manual for the dakota. He says its about 3 inches thick and it sounds like it covers all we would need to know.
I will get that TSB number somehow. I stll cannot believe your dealer is totally dumb on this. Have you talked to another dealer?
BPEEBLES, any input on this?
TOM !!!!!
You may want to refer to additional posts about BOB vs other manuals that took place in posts #599-602 of the DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB Forum.
richster supplied the link to order BOB online
http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
2nddak: You will hear anything if you live long enough. I'm sure some dealer may be able to put a Mercedes V8 in a Dakota, but at what cost? Did the guy tell you about the 120 mpg carburators that the oil companies bought out? Or the vast right wing conspiracy that actually stole the furniture from the White House in the middle of the night? It is scary what some people will believe.
And congradulations on becoming an MPC (what is that??)
Bill
Any old how, one of the many bugs I had was caused by a defective crank sensor. Made my MIL light up for no apparent reason and it would go off when it felt like it. It took three trips to my dealer to gently explain that no, it is not my gas cap or the gas, and please hook up your fancy computer and find the friggin code! Well they deduced that the AIS motor was bad. Got another put it on, and then I had the whistle while you drive thing due to the plunger being 1/32 inch too short. Also had an awful problem with cold starts. Got the correct one and no more MIL.
Last step in the cold start saga was a flash to the PCM which fixed the stumble/stall on cold starts. I did find out that it was affecting nearly all vehicles with the 4.7 (Jeep and Dakota). no problems starting or running since.
Now about that 120 MPG carb....I have an old Dodge pickup..........
Now there's a solution. Load UNIX drivaility updates on your PCM and no more problems! JUST KIDDING OTHER FORUM MEMBERS!
Ron35
deteriotion of the main frame, Wisconsin climate w/ lots of salt on the roads.This truck spoiled me. Can any knowledgeable person give me their comments on which of these 2 vehicles setup as describe be the most reliable for at least 10 years/120,000 miles or if there is a inherent design problem in these vehicles or components. I would appreciate worth while comments rather than brand bashing. Thanks
i also had the rough idle and cutting out every once and awhile so they did the idle flash tsb and now it idles at about 600 no a/c instead of 500 no a/c. the idle is still about 700 with a/c so no change there so its better overall. i hope all is well with everyone else and ill let everyone know if it starts again.
the DC rep has been great to me, he even brought up the subject of a buyback because of all the rearend issues i have had and i declined. i like my truck and i am willing to try and make it work right!
good luck all,
robert
So far so good with my truck, no real issues with mine except for one of the windows. The new window regulator is on order, and when that is fixed, I'll be a happy camper.
So far, the only concernable incident that was experienced was a wierd experience with the engine. It cut out for 1 second and triggered the malfunction indicator light. When this happened, the engine had a erratic idle 400 rpm - 1500 rpm and would cut out at 2500 rpm as if the rev limiter were engaged. I got to work and it sat all day, and when I left work it ran fine. After 4 restarts, the MIF went out. This only happened once and when I brought it to the shop, it was not repeatable.
Still scratching my head as to what happened that morning though. Possible it was a moisture related problem.
Overall I really like this truck.
Which rear end do you have? 3.55 lsd?
good luck all
robert
if you tow use synth
robert
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/
Hope this helps some of the people that are having a hard time with their dealers.
Nathan
need to change the fluid to synthetic or does it come that way with the Tow package?
TD
pretty vague description, but any ideas?
1/2 point at idle, 3/4 point during driving.
DEALER says he knows nothing about any upgrades to PCM or other. I called DC customer service.. gave me the SAME line.. and to wait another MONTH to see if anything is sent out. I WAIT.. and experience it every day while I am told to basically live with it! For my $23000 + i get to "live with it"... there has to be a better solution...
I love this truck and an otherwise very happy... I simply believe i have a dealer who is less than worried about my issues, even with multiple calls to get service.
I apologize in advance for this long "venting" but this forum has several members who offer excellent advice.. which I seem to need.
Bill
Bookitty
You are right, if I had the right TSB refrence, I would be at the dealer tomorrow, however a call to DC customer service yeilded nothing. The guy said he only sees a TSB for "... improve performance..." but nothing for idle or cold start. In other words he said he cannot give me a refrence to my symptoms and a TSB or PCM upgrade. I am still hoping someone who has had these symptoms and gotten a flash give me a TSB number or PCM program date to go by (henne from post 527??)
Again,
I appreciate the help
well the whine is still there at 70-80 and is coming back again at 35-45 after 5 times in the shop including a new rearend. i wonder if they are chasing the wrong problem. i remember reading somewhere the driveshaft caused some whinning by someone, anybody know who or remember that? also wonder if when my rearend started grinding origianally i had the dealer flush my tranny, when i got the truck back thats when it was whinning, anybody think it could be the tranny and it has something to do with the fluid?
any ideas greatly appreciated.
robert