Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

bobsyvee · May 2001

I read in a post some time ago that the person saved a ton of money by ordering referencing the DC part number as opposed to the accessory number. I'm pretty sure it was for wheels.

Jim

spike50 · May 2001

billarf - I bought the $13/pair, non-logo, Dodge "soft" flaps. Work great and have some "give" if it hits something going forward or backwards. Many have already heard my reasoning - I had the hard , shaped ones on a Dodge Stratus (oldest son totalled this car last fall) and kept knocking the rear ones off. When backing into a parking spot, especially after snowstorms with piles of snow around the concrete curb things, the icy snow could knock off the mud flap either when backing in or when leaving. Lost one and recovered one.

You may not have to worry about this possibility with the QC's higher clearances but you may run into deep mud, etc off-roading. Rather lose a $13/pair than a $50/pair.

dodgetrukn · May 2001

I haven't yet installed my plug, but my actual "measurements" convinced me to NOT use my adapter. Some folks disagree, and have yet to write back with actual dimensions as I measured, to convince myself otherwise,,,,,as always... hoping "WE" got the same adapter(s)..!!! Regards, Ger

henne · May 2001

the adaptor is not for different threads but for clearance (aka extension) if the hole is somewhat recessed and the valve cant tighten because of it the adaptor will make it stick out more so you can tighen the valve. at lease thats my understanding.

thanks

robert

dodgetrukn · May 2001

Ok, I will see if the valve will tighten as in post #682 as mentioned..As read, I might assume that I don't need the adapter. I will post again only after "my" final visual/mechanical installation. Hearing diffs about this issue inspires me to "double check"..
Love my quad so far!!... Ger

bluebayou · June 2001

I've read several posts regarding Line-X and Rhino spray in liners, but nothing regarding Perma-tech.

Has anybody had experience with this product?

jeffghs · June 2001

I just finished shopping around for bedliners and I ended up going with the Speedliner. I just got it sprayed a couple of days ago, and it looks great.

The reason I chose this over the others is that it has the highest tensile rating, and highest shore rating. Perma-tech was actually one of the lower ratings. By tensile rating and shore ratings I mean how difficult it is to tear the stuff.

I highly considered Line-x and Rhino as well, and though both seem to be great products, it was the local installers that really didn't sell me. The Rhino dealer wanted to drill new drain holes in the bed, which I really didn't want to go with.

For the Perma-tech, just what I found on my checking them out is the sample sent was pretty weak. Had great grip. Had great color choices, however when you added color the price increased by $100+ depending on the color. Adding the glow-in-the-dark added almost $1000 believe it or not.

As for experience with the Speedliner as of yet. It goes on cold, so the first 24 hours you really had to protect the bed (i.e. no water, rain, nothing in the back, and tailgate down) untile the stuff cures. After the first 24 hours the stuff really hardens up. I have a Forest Green quad, and the liner is in their emerald green color, and it couldn't match any better.

Regardless which brand you choose, just make sure you check out the installer first and arm yourself with any questions beforehand so you know exactly what will be done to your truck.

I hope this helps and good luck.
Jeff

bluebayou · June 2001

Thanks for the great info. I have a sample coming also... seems like i'll have to visit the installers to see who give me that warm fuzzy feeling.

How did all of your choices compare in price?

I had never heard of speedliner here in cleveland, but I will have to check around.

Thanks for the great info!

Blue

jeffghs · June 2001

The prices were all pretty equal. The rhino was actually the highest priced by around $40 more, next was line-x, and speedliner fell just under them.

Something else I didn't mention on the speedliner was that none of the installers really wanted to do the speedliner over the rail which I wanted. After their explenation it made sense. They actually would do it but would not warranty that. What they explained to me was when this stuff is soft which it is, and later on people have a tendency to pick and pull at it, which eventually will take its toll on how your truck looks. The suggestion was for the same price as having another brand liner sprayed over the rail, you could do this liner and buy some real nice bed rail caps for the same money. This is what I am trying to find the best deal on now.

Another suggestion to you is to get as many samples of different brands as possible. When you get the samples compare the texture, as well as the durability of each. Take a knife to them to see how easily they cut and hide the cuts. This should make your decision much easier. I'd be happy to offer my opinion on any of the samples I received if you are in a crunch to get a liner in, as some took many weeks before I recieved them. In all I think I received around 6 brands.

The web site for speedliner is www.speedliner.com

ahasher · June 2001

here is my FWIW and IMHO view on finding tow equipment for the QC .. Hidden Hitch was $100, REESE was about $109. HH had a awkward looking electrical mount and looked lighter duty than the class III I looked at. Reese had no electrical hookup and I would have had to mail order it from here. U-haul wanted $200 (GASP!!!) for the tube style, with no electrical mount. So on a whim, I priced the MOPAR hitch class III/IV. $157 (HMMM..) so I looked at one QC with it installed. Looked sturdy and had a great ENCLOSED electrical mount, so the wires are protected. The OEM wiring harness for a 4 way hookup (T's into existing wiring, no cutting) was $50 but way better quality that Wal-Mart harness at $22. They were completely factory wrapped in the heavy duty black wire cover and had a bag load of straps and accessories , including a bracket to mount it if needed. MUCH better deal if you want factory look, factory made harness. I ordered both and a $10 rubber rams head receiver cover. The parts came in 2 days.

IMHO, the setup looks factory, is sturdy and was made for the QC in the first place, making the setup worth the few extra $$ to order from MOPAR.

bobs5 · June 2001

Jim,
I was disapppointed that the bedrug that they sent did not fit.

Seems that the folks who ordered for the quad cab were sent short bed bedrugs got short bed bedrugs.

They picked up the wrong one, and still waiting on the correct one to arrive. Probably arrive on monday.

Dodgetruckin,
I ordered an ARE ch cap for the truck from suburban caps in Old Bridge NJ.
2 weeks for delivery.
Got $20 off from the ARE website.
Good luck to all.
Bob
About 2 weeks for delivery.

dodgetrukn · June 2001

Changed the oil/filter for the second time at 1681 miles.First at ~ 600.
Installed the oil valve,,NO PROBLEM..without the Adapter.
Looking from the front of the truck it appears to have over 1(min) to >2 inches
clearance from my skid plate.

Guess with some of the postings there is some difference,,whether the oilpan, or
skid plate or something??? is different..but mine has plenty of clearance and I do not
have any recessed oil plug location on the oil pan.
It is a slight pain,,,to drop both skid plates to change the oil.
Unless by design,,,, You are supposed to let the engine oil run out onto the skid plate!

Bobs5, how much $$ for the cap.? Gonna have to check it out..Still haven't
made a decision..what to do with the bed..leaning towards under the rail liner/some type of cover. Later..Ger

bobs5 · June 2001

The cap base price is $850, $75 front sliding window, $40 for rubber seal, $20 for clamps, -$20 ARE coupon.
With tax came out to $1065 or so.
Bob

ja812 · June 2001

I have the Line- over the rail and am very happy with it. Looks factory and have gotten many compliments on it. $380 was about $30-$40 cheaper than Rhino.. also was recommended for strength and quality.

bpeebles · June 2001

For those of us that bought a manual xmission, here is a real HURST SHIFTER for the Dakota. There is a reason I orderd a manual xmission with a V8... the FUN factor.

taki3 · June 2001

wow - that looks like my truck....except i have a v6 with a 5 spd....i bought the shifter at summitracing.com, for 190 bucks....it took all of 1.5 hours to install....

works great - except i currently have my truck in the shop for a transmission oil leak - at 70k miles! any ideas anybody? it leaks onto the outside bottom of the bellhousing....

iowabigguy · June 2001

How about giving us your experience installing. Does it include a real leather boot or reuse the stock rubber? Is there an improvement in shifting?
Thanks, Rick

taki3 · June 2001

be prepared to read for a long time....

well, first of all, its a special order item - took 1 month to get....so, be prepared to wait....for the v6 engine (AX-15 transmission) the Hurst part number is 391-5050....

after that - its a piece of cake. after you remove the inside plastic shifter bezel and the rubber boot (be careful removing - the front screws are under the cupholder, and along the back edge there were two of those wonderful steel spring clips that hold the plastic bezel), on my truck there was another rubber boot and a piece of sheet steel with screws around the perimeter - after you remove that, you can see the shifter and transmission....the shifter is held on by 4 bolts on top - and you remove the 4 bolts, and poof - the old shifter should lift right off - it has some sort of paper-steel-paper gasket (which was leaking on my truck anyway)...

next, the old shifter has a sort of plastic cap on the ball end (which fits into the transmission) - i got a new one from the Dodge dealer - cost 8 bucks....this plastic cap snaps on the ball end of the shifter (put some oil on it and push hard) and after putting some rtv on both sides of the steel gasket (did not install the paper gaskets), i installed the steel gasket on the transmission, placed the new shifter on top, and bolted it down (Hurst gives torque setting for the bolts) - make sure the plastic cap fits where its supposed to, otherwise you will not be able to shift....

next, the Hurst shifter comes with its own rubber boot which goes over the shift mechanism and part of the chrome stick....its installed with zip ties...after that, reinstall the factory rubber boot and plate, and then finally the finish rubber boot and plastic bezel...and done! so - in counting - there are 3 rubber boots on the new shifter - the Hurst rubber boot, the rubber boot and sheet steel that screw onto the body of the truck, and the plastic bezel and "exterior" rubber boot that you see when you are driving the truck....no leather boot anywhere (but that would be a nice addition)....

my biggest problem with the OE shifter was the long shifts - coupled with my v6 and my 3.21 axle ratio - it makes for some very slow starts. the Hurst shifter reduces the shifter throw by about half, so shifting is somewhat quicker....i was also hoping that the transmission notchiness would go away, but it didnt....

finally, the Hurst shifter comes with a very cheap black plastic shift knob - i splurged and got a 33 dollar white plastic knob with engraved shift pattern....it looks cool if anything else.

i hope this helps - i would recommend getting one for anybody who has a clutch foot faster than a shifting hand (i used to grind gears on occasion - havent done it yet with the new shifter)....

Pete

iowabigguy · June 2001

Wow, thanks for the quick comeback! I want one! Rick

taki3 · June 2001

one more note - the shifter for a v8 transmission has a different part number - actually, the shifter for the v8 transmission is a Hurst Competition Plus shifter - the shifter for the v6 transmission is a Hurst Billet Plus shifter....

look for the correct part number!

iowabigguy · June 2001

COMPETITION/PLUS SHIFTER for DODGE DAKOTA
The traditional Hurst Competition/Plus Shifter is now available for Dodge Dakota V8 pick-up
trucks equipped with the New Venture 3500 series 5-speed transmission and is designed to
provide a more positive and secure feel when shifting. This shifter incorporates a high
ratio pivot mechanism for approximately 30% reduced knob travel resulting in shorter,
quicker shifts. Patented adjustable bias spring loads allow stick tension to be tailored for
drivers preference, and positive gear stops prevent overshifting and internal transmission
damage. Includes chrome plated bolt-on stick with black knob and is easily installed without
any vehicle modifications.
Application Part Number
Fits 1994-2000 Dodge Dakota V8 with NV3500 transmission part number is 391 0155

ayrow · June 2001

Pete,

First of all, thanks for the great description of your install.

I have two questions;

1) I have a 2001 QC with the bucket seats and the center counsel. I looks from photos that the Hurst shift knob slants closer to the seat than the factory stick. Do you think it will run into the counsel and/or make it difficult to grab as a result when in 2nd or 4th gear?

2.) Does the Hurst knob rest at a different height? In other words, does one have to reach down further to reach the shift knob?

Thank you so much.

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

bobs5 · June 2001

Just got an email that the bedrug is on it's way........again.

They shipped the wrong model last time. Sent a short bed model, but I need a quad cab model, which is shorter than the short bed model.

Also recieved a call from, http://www.subcaps.com/ , that the ARE model CH cap has arrived. I will have that installed this weekend. Just placed the order last Thursday and it is here already. Less than a week from order to delivery. They said it would be 2 weeks at time of order.

Bob

taki3 · June 2001

The Hurst shifter stick is actually a little further away (more towards the right) than the original shifter - not quite sure why they did that....i would want it closer to the driver....

in addition, i think that the Hurst shifter stick is actually a little longer than the original - as far as the console, i dont think it would be a problem - i have the 40-/20/40 seats, and the knob is placed just above the level of the top of "20" seat.... i always have the "20" seat in the down position, and while the knob gets close, i never really have a problem shifting....

hope this helps....

Pete

appraiser · June 2001

I bought my 2000 Dakota Quad (5-sp, V-8, 2wd) a year ago and I love it! Question: I'd like to upgrade my tires and rims (I have 30,000 miles on it now). The truck came with P255/65/R15s and I want to go bigger (taller rather than wider for the most part). Does anyone know what size tires would be appropriately tough-looking on this truck? Thanks! I understand that the Dodge dealer can reprogram my computer for the new diameter.

C. Moore

bpeebles · June 2001

For those of you interested in getting more info on the HURST shifter for the Dakota...

While my wife shops... I peruse the latest truck and Mopar magizines for Dakota information. Today I found a magazine that has a complete STEP-BY STEP photo gallery about how to install the new HURST shifter into your Dakota. There is even some commentary on the "feel" of the unit.

Look for "High Performance Mopar" magazine at your local bookstore or grocerystore. Or click the following URL for an online version.

http://www.highperformancemopar.com/archives/tech/tech03_hursts.shtml

bobs5 · June 2001

Had the ARE model CH cap installed this past weekend. Looks nice. The paint match is pretty close. It looks just a teeny tiny bit darker in color than the truck. Not enough to have it repainted though.
Bob

ayrow · June 2001

Where is the best place to buy this Hurst shifter?????

I want one!!!!

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

ford_bii · June 2001

2 questions:

1. Does installing the shifter void any warranties on the truck?

2. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT:I have a 2001 with the center console, and with the current shifter when I place a 44 oz beverage cup in the cup holder behind the shifter, the shifter will hit the cup in 2nd gear and I have to crush it to engage 2nd properly. Does the Hurst shifter still hit the cup???

If the above answers are both 'NO', I'm going for it.

bluebayou · June 2001

Has anybody out there used the "magnetic fuel saver" advertised in the J.C. Whitney catalog?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=37028&BQ=jcw2

I remember a few years ago in college someone raving about it in their K-5 Blazer ( SB 400). I was just curious if anybody has used one. They spout off about it was proven on some EPA fuel efficiency test, but who really knows.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Blue

mopar67 · June 2001

My creedo is if its sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

urban3 · June 2001

I know I saw post somewhere about how to get a spare tire lock for free. I even printed out the info. But of course now I can't find it. Anyone know what I'm referring to?

What about a lock (free or not)? I can't seem to find anything at local retail auto parts stores or even online. I'm not looking in the right places. Your help please.

ahasher · June 2001

is at www.sparetirelock.com.. I called them based on other recommendations from this board, and the guy told me 'sorry", the "free" lock was only if a retailer ordered it, not an individual. he suggested my local truck shop order it, and then they would give the rebate to make it free. I didn't order it, But I plan on getting one, I really like the J hook design (as long as it's long enough) over other hanging locks. Good luck, and let us know how it goes..

ahasher · June 2001

and ordered a lock, after I checked out the site again when I first posted your reply. The coupon to get the "free" lock was an easy to print certificate which you get to by clicking the scrolling banner. So It's didn't say retailers only, as I was told on the phone. $25 at the most and $5 shipping at the least is worth the chance to protect a $500 or so spare alloy rim and rubber.

taki3 · June 2001

i bought my Hurst shifter from summitracing.com - it was 189 with shipping....carparts.com has a price matching +10% off, but they tack on about 50 bucks in shipping, so its not worth it (the absolutely worst car web site ive ever been to)....

as far as the stick hitting those tall cups, i can tell you this - ive got a 97 dakota (first year of the new style), and i always had that problem with hitting cups - with the new shifter, i have not tried the 44oz cup (maybe at lunch today) but the stick doesnt come anywhere near the medium sized cups that i normally get.....it might hit a 44oz cup in reverse though....

for comparison, the new stick comes straight up out of the shifting unit a little, and then bends towards the seats....the old stick was a straight shot coming out of the shifting unit....

billarf · June 2001

The lock from SpareTirelock.com is very well made,

priced right and works well. Do know that you will have to turn your spare over placing the finished side up OR the locks J-Bar will be to short. I have no problem with the spare finished side up as it protect the rim. Anyway, have the lock and am very pleased with it. OH, the lock comes with a plastic cap that keeps the crap out of the key hole. Bill in NY

http://www.auffarth.com/dodge.html

ahasher · June 2001

upside-down.. which I think is a good idea anyway, protecting the finished side. Thanks for the confirmation that the lock works well.. I don't like ordering sight-unseen, at any cost. And the "free" makes it a good deal.

fvracer · June 2001

I purchased a lock from SpareTireLock.com and I didn't have to flip the spare to install it. My 2001 QC has the T&H package with the 16" wheels and it fit fine. The instructions need to be followed, however. The first time I attempted to install the lock where it "looked" like it should go, it was too short. After studying the instructions, I repositioned the J-bar and it fit with no problems.

bpeebles · June 2001

This might not be a good idea if you live in a winter-salted climate. The top of the spare (and every nook and cranny in the frame) get packed with salt-laden mud that causes corrosion.

One can hose off most of the frame easy enough but would have to UNLOCK, LOWER and hose off the finished side of the spare several times each winter.

I do not know about the rest of you but climbing under my truck while laying in slush in the winter to unlock the spare tire is not my idea of a good time.

Just last weekend I found some more salt-laden mud inside my rear bumper while I was washing my truck.... that stuff gets EVERYWHERE.

Good thing that lock comes with a plastic cap!

biglucy · June 2001

I spoke with the owner a while ago, who had been getting alot of complaints about QC owners with the fat tire & handling group making the j-bar to short - the dakota model the j-bar was made for was the 15inch rim and tire with less width. Get in touch with the company and tell them you want another model with a longer j-bar and you won't have to turn the tire upside down. If ya want?

gtownguy · June 2001

Hello all. I'm about to pick up my new QC, sport 4x4. I was interested in putting on three things right away. The black Westin nerf bars, a trailer hitch,(preferably one by Curt-tubular black), and possibly a Westin tubular Safari bar up front. Does anyone have any better suggestions? Are these products high quality? I understand there is no drilling for these items. Is that true?
Any and all info would be greatly appreciated. BTW- I love this forum, one of the best out there!

Thanks, Tom.

ahasher · June 2001

I mentioned this recently but here is my .02. I looked at several hitches, and have found I liked the MOPAR III/IV hitch best for several reasons, 1 - it has an enclosed electrical box, comes with 4 way plug adapter that bolts to the box(if the 5 or 7 way is not your application, as in my case), 2 - It has welded bars instead of round holes for chains 3 - NO DRILLING!!! matches the frame holes perfectly. Also it came with a very cool molded rubber rams head plug. Also I very much recommend the factory wire harness, which is VERY well done, molded ends and completely covered in wire loom with a bunch of adapters and ties. Cost: Hitch $157 (not too bad) wire harness $50 (again, not too bad for factory wiring vs open wire like you get at wal-mart kits. Overall it looks factory on my rig, rather than an aftermarket product which can sometimes ruin the great look you have with the QC alone. i ordered from my dealer parts dept, and it was here in about 2 days.

bookitty · June 2001

Tom, I have the Westin bars and am very pleased with them. My receiver is factory, but I have heard good things about Reese and Hidden Hitch. I have the Manik safari bars on my truck as well as my wife's SUV and I truly think that these are the heaviest and most functional grill/brush guards made in their price class. Good luck with your truck.

Bookitty

spike50 · June 2001

Thought it was time for this to be brought up again. "BOB" shows that the DRL module would be mounted in the engine compartment, left side by the battery. I'm assuming that all Canadian Daks are so equipped. It appears that the DRL modules can be ordered through the USA dealers for $84+. Has anyone been successful at this conversion on a USA Dak? I've generally looked around and have not found the wire / connector shown in BOB for the job.

urban3 · June 2001

My spare tire lock arrived Friday and installed it no problem. It is long enough without having to flip the wheel, if installed following the "recommended hook location for non-typical installation" instructions.

There's diagram for Dakota and it does not hook over the hoist shaft per the normal installation. It goes through openings in the underside framing around the winch.

bobs5 · June 2001

Sorry I have been away for a week to keep everyone up to date.
Rained like heck last night, not a drop of water in the bed of the truck. The ARE CH cap kept it dry.
The correct bedrug arrived finally.
Still have to install it.
Been too busy getting my resume up to date and filing for unemployment. Got layed off on monday after 13+ years with the company. Bummer.
Bob

mopar67 · June 2001

thats one thing we all see too much of these days.
Best of luck to you.

scottieeck · June 2001

sorry to hear about your layoff Bob. Hope you're back in the saddle soon (unless you need a vacation that is). Good luck!
scottie

billarf · June 2001

After reading here this morning I went to my '01 Quad cab and unlocked the SpareTireLock and proceeded to re-flip the spare so the finished side was down. I hoisted the spare and found the right spot to hook the SpareTireLock J-Bar and sure enough the SpareTireLock will in fact work with the spare tire not flipped as I had previously thought. It secures on the first whole from the end. There is a little free play and I thought possibly a rattle source so I cut a piece of black garden hose and made a spacer to take up the slack and thus no rattle. ANYWAY,
IF you are concerned your pricey spare and rim might get stolen the SpareTireLock is well worth the $. Bill in NY
p.s. I do have the larger size rim and tire that
is part of the tire and handling package.
I wanted to get my spare facing the way the factory had it because flipped it tends to become loose and rattle every couple of weeks. H

dodgetrukn · June 2001

I am wondering if anyone knows if this system plays CD-RW'S??
I've made a few CD-R's and they play fine..as everyone knows..
I'll keep looking for info in the meantime..before I burn a RW and try myself..
Thanks,
Ger.

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