Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

slickwilliedj · June 2004

Hi bepeebles, I have an 01 4.7 auto 2wd sport plus lsd rear 3.55 4 whl antilocks etc
one day after this fluid change I took a 500 mile round trip to Orlando Fl and avg about 19-20mpg doing about 75mph. I will continue to monitor the mpg and let you know though.

slickwilliedj · June 2004

Hi, Dustyk,I agree removing the cover completly would proberly be the better way to flush the rear diff. However, he just felt that since the truck only has 33k it was not nessary. Although it would have been nice to take a look at the gears and the magnet. The positive thing that came out of this whole fluid change regardless of the method used is the chattering noise is totally gone so hopefully the new fluid did the trick... 800 miles and all is good

slickwilliedj · June 2004

Just thought I'd give my two cents on these. I installed a set of the yoko's ht-s also. 275/55/17 size mounted on a set of the R/T's 17 in rims. Love the tires awesome traction wet or dry and are wearing great! Ride is diffently harsher but the truck handle's much better. I also have a set of the edelbrock ias shocks and like those as well. I installed the shocks prior to getting the tires just to see how they effected the ride and handling. They made a big difference.The truck is more responsive and controlled feeling and rides over the bumps much nicer then with the oems.

jeffs17 · June 2004

I have a 2003 2WD Quad Cab (with rear disc brakes) and every time I go into reverse when it is raining (any temperature) or the temperature is near freezing, there is a groaning or moaning noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Does anyone know what is causing this?

bpeebles · June 2004

Are you saying that just GOING into reverse causes the problem? (The vehicle is NOT moving?)

jeffs17 · June 2004

No. The vehicle must be moving in reverse to make the noise.

spike50 · June 2004

I guess the next questions are:

1. Do you think that the groaning sound is coming from one or both wheels (brake caliber problems) or do you think that it is in the rear differential (drive-train clearance issues)?

2. Is the sound continuous (brakes and/or rear dif) as you back-up for any amount of distance or is abrupt and only occurs when the suspension gets loaded in the opposite direction (dry rubber bushings on the leaf springs, sway bar, or shocks that are tighter in cool weather)?

3. Is it repeatable every time you go into reverse in one whole day or is it once and done for the day until it sits over night?

4. Does the groaning "always" occur in cooler weather or only in certain types, e.g. frozen slush under the truck versus "dry" cold?

Probably the wrong time of the year (weather-wise) to run a test but stand outside the truck while someone else moves it in reverse. You know best what sound to listen for.

dakowner · June 2004

This problem is associated with the 03 Dakotas with 4 wheel disc brakes. I experienced it on my 03 Quad cab for a couple hundred miles during the first 500 miles on it. There is a TSB (0500603) covering this and the fix is to install bushings on the rear calipers. I didn't have mine done and I've never heard it since. Take it in and they'll do the fix.

bpeebles · June 2004

I have been in other vehicles that moan while backing up. Apparently, rear disk brakes have a tendancy to do this. I would ignore it.

My Dak, has DRUMS in the rear, they squeel every time I stop. (Just like a delivery truck might)
I have taken them apart and PMd them. The squeeling came back within a month. It stops when I push on the brake pedal, that is all that counts.

jeffs17 · June 2004

I cannot tell for sure if the groaning sound is coming from the brakes or rear axle. It does not sound like surface rust being ground off the brake discs by brake pads which commonly happens when a vehicle is initially driven after sitting unused for several days. It does sound like metal-to-metal rubbing.

The sound is continuous when backing up, regardless of the distance traveled. It seems to get louder if I accelerate in reverse.

It is repeatable throughout the day when the noise occurs. The truck does not have to sit overnight for the noise to reoccur.

The noise frequently occurs when the outside temperature is below 40 degrees F, regardless if it is dry, raining, or snowing. And it also occurs at warmer temperatures but only when the truck has been sitting in rain for some time.

spike50 · June 2004

jeffs17 - It seems that dakowner might have the "fix" to your problem. Since the groaning is always there, this could well be caused by the brake caliper clearance issue noted in dakowner's reference to a Mopar TSB.

Print-off the TSB, read over it, walk into the dealer with it, in-hand, and asked to get it fixed. Make sure that they test it out with you in the truck. If they say that your's doesn't need it (checked on the lift) or they do apply the fix, let us know if it worked (no groaning in reverse). I don't know how handy you are, but if there seems to be a cost issue (shouldn't be), you could get the parts and install them yourself. If she's still groaning let us know and we can go from there.

Karen_S · June 2004

Generations: Dodge Dakota

bookitty · June 2004

Karen, thanks for the "heads up" on the Dodge Dakota history. Very interesting.

Bookitty

jeffs17 · June 2004

I had the TSB work performed on my Dakota for the moaning noise. Now I have to wait and hear if the noise is gone. The dealer could not replicate the problem, but still did the work for free under warranty.

spike50 · June 2004

I have recently started wondering if my '00 QC 4x4 could be lowered approx. 4". I've noticed that it could easily be achieved in the back by reattaching the leaf springs so that they are below the axle as is the case in a 4x2 unit versus below the springs in a 4x4.

The front end is where it would get tricky. One could adjust the torsion bar anchors to some degree but only as much as the camber can be adjusted and stay in spec. I don't know if that adjustment would be enough to keep the overall ride slightly "tail-high". I also wonder how these changes might impact the current 4x4 height shocks.

I like the 4x4 mode and in some cases the 4x4 height but that tailgate seems like a mountain when heaving motorcycles, a dead deer, or construction materials into the bed.

jody · July 2004

I've been hearing the same noises in my '99 for the last six months. It really just sounds like the front end suspention could use a little lubrication

jd332dakota · August 2004

My 03 QC is running well with only 8,000 miles on it. My only complaint is that the engine compartment on drivers side is extremely dirty while the other side is still clean. I noticed a hole between fenderwell and engine so I took it to dealer and they said this is normal, I don't believe this. Anyone have this problem? -JD

slickwilliedj · August 2004

anybody blown there infinity speakers? if so did you replace them with the factory ones or go after market?

seems theres very little choice out there for aftermarket I would like to stick with infinity's and i'm considering the infinity 6002si reference models 6 1/2's.

also anyone install a sub in the q/c. not much choice here either if you still wanna retain the full function of the rear seats...

dustyk · August 2004

Try moving the front end of the vehicle up and down slightly. If you hear the noise the most likely suspect are the sway bar bushings. Very common on Dakotas. They'll need to be replaced.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2004

I've got nearly 30K on mine and I haven't noticed this to be a problem.

Can you be more specific as to the opening between the fenderwell and engine?

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · August 2004

Last week the family and the QC headed to northern NY for a little R&R. We took the Dakota up Whiteface Mt (avg 8% grade for 8 miles). Went up in 2nd gear. The temp got up to around 210 deg at one point. The fan clutch engaged and cooled things off quite quickly. We came down in 2nd gear as well. Towards the bottom of the hill, the check engine light popped on. We stopped after getting to the bottom. The brakes were on the warm side - the rotors were slightly blue. But, no signs of warpage or brake fade. I took the opportunity to retrieve the error code. I got a P0132 code out. This is a high voltage on one of the O2 sensors. I pulled the negative battery cable and reset the code. It hasn't come back. The 8 miles of coasting in 2nd gear must of produced an out of tolerance condition somehow.

A few days later, it started raining while we were driving. I went to turn on the wipers, and nothing. No wipers, no washer juice. I stopped and pulled the fuse. It was OK. I pulled the wiper relay and reinserted it. When I restarted the truck, the wipers were working. It must of been a stuck wiper relay. Cycling the power probably reset it.

dustyk · September 2004

Sunburn,

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (or "check engine" lamp) will illuminate only if a problem is recognized for a long enough duration and will store the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM memory. If the DTC is related to a non-emissions component or system, the DTC will drop out if the condition is repaired or ceases to exist after 40 warm-up cycles of the engine. In addition, the PCM recognizes DTCs by priority. Depending on the assigned priority in the PCM, certain DTCs will be erased from the PCM after two or three complete "trips," or complete cold-to-hot, hot-to-cold engine cycles.

Emissions-type DTCs are almost always Priority 4 and must be reset. I don't know at the moment if the P0132 is a P4 code, but I suspect it is based on the DTC description.

It depends on the actual scenario, but the PCM recognizes deceleration as a mode by monitoring the fuel and emissions systems. If by some chance you travelled the entire eight miles with the throttle completely closed ("hard deceleration"), the fuel injectors should have been completely shut off allowing no fuel into the cylinders and in this mode the PCM will ignore the O2 sensor signals completely.

I suspect, however, that you were not in this condition and indeed the cylinders got some quantity of fuel. Had you occasionally opened the throttle very, very slightly during the down hill trip? If this were the case, the PCM saw this as a extreme lean condition and threw the code.

Your Whiteface Mountain scenario is likely a very unusual mode condition and I suspect doesn't indicate any malfunction in the engine systems.

The wiper relay experience was the first time I've heard of this. Maybe the relay was just not making a good connection.

Best regards,
Dusty

mtrialsm · September 2004

2001 Quad 4.7 2wd. 49k miles. should I get the
Edelbrock IAS or Monroe Reflex shocks?
Thanks,
MM

bpeebles · September 2004

The Edelbrock IAS are FAR superior to any other shock absorber out there. (but they cost more too 8-(

If you do any research into shock absorbers, you will quickly find that there are "Twin-tube Low Pressure Gas" and "Mono-tube High Pressure Gas" types.

The Edelbrock IAS are the "Mono-tube High Pressure Gas" type while the Monroe are not. The Edelbrock IAS actually improve handling and braking (by reducing lean and nosedive)

In my case, the original absorbers were so bad that the rear of my Dak would leap sideways several inches over expansion joints. (scary at 65MPH!) With the Edelbrock IAS, the scary stuff is totally GONE and now it handles expansion joints as if they were not even there.

mtrialsm · September 2004

Picked up the IAS shocks at Advance Auto Parts
and installed them today. With a short test drive I can tell a difference.
Advance beat my best mail order price and had them the next day,,,not bad at all.
Drive out price was $277.00 for all four.
It never hurts to ask,,,,,

dustyk · September 2004

Bpeebles, how many miles do you have on those IAS shocks now?

Bests,
Dusty

bpeebles · September 2004

(Dusty) My dak has over 60K miles...I think I put the IAS on at around 25K. So I have at least 30K on them.

dustyk · September 2004

Bpeeb,

I know this is a tough question to answer, but do you have a feeling of how much shock action has changed since you put on the IASs?

I work with a guy who put the IAS shocks on his K-series Chevy PU a couple of years ago and he thinks they were a waste of money. But I'm not really sure what criteria he used to come to that conclusion. He may be thinking that for the price they weren't that much better. I don't know.

Since you're the only other one that I've run across that has them, especially on a Dak, I'm very interested in your observations and opinion on the performance since you've installed them.

The shocks on mine is the only thing that tells me that it isn't new anymore. When I first got the truck the ride was very controlled and responsive. I can tell that the shocks have loosened up, although at 30K it really isn't bad or anything. I suspect that by the time I hit 60K I'll want to change them out.

Thanks in advance.

Bests,
Dusty

dataguru · September 2004

Hi Guys,

I agree with Dusty regarding the ride of the factory shocks. I am a very sedate driver and at first, the ride on my Dak (2003 Quad 2wd 4.7) was firm, controlled, and responsive but, has loosen up considerably. After only 17K kilometres (10500 miles), the ride became very soft and leans/dips into turns and nose dives slightly when braking. My Dealer agrees the shocks have become definitely soft but, claims is normal wear. Personally, I think it's premature wear after only 10500 miles. Now, at 25650 kilometres (15940 miles) the ride is getting softer and bouncier. I don't think they will last until 40K kilometres (approx 25K miles) before needing attention.

I think Dodge must have changed suppliers in the last few years as the shocks on my '01 Quad 2wd 3.9 were never this soft at the same mileage.

Awhile back, I did some research and took Bruce's suggestion and got the Edelbrock's IAS shocks and will install them at 32K kilometres (20K miles) or sooner. Although, the Dealer will likely replace the factory shocks under warranty but, why bother with putting the same factory cheapos back in. Just my...2 cents.

Can someone please advise me on the various symptoms or telltale signs of upper/lower ball joints problems?

Thanks in advance,
dataguru

mtrialsm · September 2004

Most shocks will ONLY be replaced is they are leaking oil? I've NEVER had one leak, just loose
it's damping.
Edelbrock shocks have a full warranty that covers
most all defects for life. The pamplet gives
examples and diagrams. (i.e.)How to check your shock for failure.

dustyk · September 2004

>>>Can someone please advise me on the various symptoms or telltale signs of upper/lower ball joints problems?
<<<

Some of the way a vehicle reacts to worn ball joints is characteristic dependent on the platform design. In general, worn ball joints are first detected from road wander or how the vehicle traverses pavement separations in the driving position. Wheel shimmy or pulling to one side is also an indicator. Less evident is excessive play in the type of suspension system utilized by the Dakota.

I have seen a few so bad that they'll rattle over certain type of pavement conditions, or make clunking noises.

The best way to check for ball joint wear is to have a technician do the correct inspection.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · September 2004

Both of my original rear shock absorbers were leaking, (were probubly totally empty of fluid) Like I said before, the rear of my Dak would leap sideways over expansion joints.

NOW, even with about 30K miles on the IAS shocks, I can ACCELLERATE over expansion joints and the rear end actually "squats" as the IAS do their magic to keep the tires planted on the road in a straight line. In the winter, when the roads are MILES and MILES of bumpy ice, my Dak stays planted and controlled.

I am certian that it was the very same ICY conditions that clobbered my original shock absorbers. (blew out the seals)

dataguru · September 2004

(dustyk) Thanks Dusty.

Currently, symptoms include slight road wander traversing gentle curves, barely noticeable steering wheel shimmy, very slight pulling to the left, and a clunk noise when going over a bump with wheels turned out. Tire pressures and alignment have been checked out but, perhaps should check free play on the rack and pinion components as well. I should also measure and compare the ride height clearance to ground on both sides. However, I keep wondering if all these symptoms can be attributed only to the weak shocks? After 26K kilometres (16K miles), I guess the Dak is no longer new.

Thanks and Best Regards,
dataguru

dataguru · September 2004

(Dusty, Bruce, others) Good morning...

Further update...from the Front, the ride height(ground clearance) on the Right side is approx 1/2" lower than the Left side when measured on level ground. Not aware if this was the case from day one? There are no visible leaks but, could it be that the soft shock is collapsing or that a ball joint has failing.

I'm now, curious (in addition to the other symptoms mentioned previously) as to what else might attribute to the height difference on the Right side? (it's a 2wd Quad)

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks & Best Regards,
dataguru

dustyk · September 2004

Data,

Conventional non-booster shocks have no influence on ride height. I doubt that a ball joint could be worn that much to drop one side by that much, either.

Do I hazzard to guess that this is a four-wheel drive?

Bests,
Dusty

beddoe · September 2004

I am a bit concerned about the ride of my 2004 Dakota 1000K miles. The wheel vibrates and shimmies back and forth when going over rough pavement (ie bridges).
I have read that there are ball joint problems. If I can get a stiffer ride I will replace the shocks, but I first want to know what the issue may be. There are documented ball joint problems but this truck is brand new. How shall I proceed?
What type of shocks? New ball joints? Will the dealer work with me?

bpeebles · September 2004

Dosent your Dak have Torsion Bar front suspension? A simple crank with a wrench can indipendantly adjust the ride-height on each front wheel.

The shop manual has step-by-step instructions on how to measure and adjust the front torsion bars for ride-height.

Before you get to deep into this though, can you explain HOW you are measuring the ride-height? Are you taking the measurements from the ground to the proper frame-members?

dataguru · September 2004

Dusty,

<< Do I hazzard to guess that this is a four-wheel drive? >>

No, it's a 2003 Quad 2WD with LSD.

Best Regards,
dataguru

dataguru · September 2004

Bruce,

Yes indeed, with rack & pinion steering but, it's still under warranty (17K miles or 27K kilometres), so I wanted the Dealer to initially correct the problems. Currently, I don't have a shop chassis manual but, I should get one since I plan to keep the 4.7 for at least another 5yrs. Thank for the suggestions.

< Are you taking the measurements from the ground to the proper frame-members? >

Yes, I measured the distance from ground to the chassis frame rails on level pavement. Can't remember the exact figures just now.

As mentioned in #4851, the Dak tracks fairly straight despite of the various symptoms. So, at 17K miles I'm a little puzzled with the soft shocks and front-end situation.

Thanks & Best Regards,
dataguru

eagleeye13 · September 2004

Hi everyone, I haven't kept up with this site. Look's like still great info.
update on my '02 qc 2wd 4.7, 5spd,3:55 lsd, hvy duty service, towing etc......
Now have 50,000+ miles still running strong. Noticed a groove on front LH rotor so I'm asking for info from anyone that has gone after market for rotors and pads and their experiences? I'm going to just go ahead and change rotors and pads and hopefully be done with it !!! My '98 had 80,000 with original pads/rotors still in good shape so I don't normally have to deal with brakes yet!

Thank you for your info
Lee

hasel · September 2004

Use the Brembo rotors, stay away from the ceramic linings,

hasel · September 2004

Check the air in your tires, I joust got a 2004 Q Cab on the 15th it rides a lot harder than my 2001 Q Cab the ride should get better after a few miles, I have 44psi air in my tires and that is what i always ran in my 2001 Q Cab, this much air will give you a bumpy/hard ride, cannot see you having ball joint problems,on my 2001 Q Cab the ball joints where still in great shape after 40000 miles.

sunburn · September 2004

I used the regular Brembo rotors with a set of EBC brake pads on my 02 QC. I got both from the Tire Rack. The pads have a bit more grip than the OEMs.

dustyk · September 2004

Data,

Okay. If it was a 4-wheel drive you'd have torsion bars and those are adjustable.

However, Bpeebles asks a good question. You have to take a height measurement to the frame, not body parts such as front bumpers. Bumpers are notorious for being out of adjustment. Mine is.

Bests,
Dusty

dataguru · September 2004

(Dusty/Bruce)

To be sure, I re-checked the height difference again this past weekend. Measured from level pavement to the chassis frame rails, it's closer to 3/8" lower on the right-side than the 1/2" previously reported.

In addition to the soft shocks(no visible leaks), my upper right ball joint looks like it is collapsed(as compared to upper left) which might attribute to the height difference. Now, at 17,000 miles (27,500 kilometres) and the ride getting bouncier, I'll just take it in for a technician to confirm since it's still under warranty. I wonder if the premature weaken of the factory shocks are putting more stresses all over and thus affecting other steering components such as ball joints?

Thanks for the help & Best Regards,
dataguru

mtrialsm · September 2004

My upper and lower ball joints were replace
by dealer at 33K miles. 2001 Quad/2wd/4.7/auto.

dataguru · September 2004

(mtrialsm) Interesting...what were the symptoms related to your ball joints situation? (collapsed or dryed out or ?)

Thanks & Best Regards,
dataguru

mtrialsm · September 2004

Took truck in before standard warrantee ran out with 35K miles and a "list". Main one was the
common front-end popping and squeaky rear suspension. No questions asked, they replace upper and lower ball joints and front and rear links.
Also wiper motor control, ignition switch.
Had trans. fluid changed and injectors cleaned
(at my costs).
I didn't ask "what was wrong with ball-joints?"
I was just shocked that they were all replaced
without a 2nd discussion. This was shortly after
Dodge SUVs and trucks were beginning to make headlnes about faulty ball joints.
We have enjoyed this truck (50K miles now) very much and was my first Dodge vehicle. We're lucky it has been an overall good ride! The "mid-size" was the main reason for our purchase. Plan on keeping it for 3 more years. Now that Toyota and Nissan are up-sizing their small trucks, will probably to back to one of those brands next?
Mick

slickwilliedj · September 2004

ck out the wagner thrermo quiet pads. had a set installed on my 01 q/c at 30k and i'm very happy with them. 36k now and no problems...

jd332dakota · October 2004

Last week my 03 Quad 4.7 sat along the road with a broken plastic radiator hose clamp. Has anyone else experienced this? I put a regular hose clamp on just to get it home. -JD

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles