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Comments
I also understand that MOPAR (the DC high-performance parts division) has somthing available too.
You are correct in thinking that FLASHING the unit with the proper programming is all that would be required to change virtually any engine control one would desire.... ALAS... only DC "knows the code" inside the unit.
There has been some discussion in other forms about replacing the IAT (Idle Air Temperture) sensor with a variable resistor. This allows one to "DIAL IN" the injector timing to some degree. By "Faking out" the computer to think that it is always cold outside... the computer gleefully injects more fuel. One guy has actually graphed the resistance -vs- temparture of the IAT to understand its operation. It is all very exciting!! (Experiment at your own risk)
The answer is that the engine computer senses that the roadspeed is approaching the programmed limit and it begins to cut SPARK and FUEL to the engine. This is EXACTLY the same thing that happens when the engine is over-revved.
Normal operation resumes immediatly when you slow down... the engine does not just quit.
Is it possible to hurt the motor with having a auto-trans and full-accelleration-- Of course Not Ever without first the engine reaching Normal operating Tempature..?
James
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am
I also assume when you ask about "hurt the motor" that you are referring to overreving the engine only.
A simple answer to your question... YES. I am sure someone could find a way to damage the engine even with an automatic. while traveling 60MPH... throw the tranny into low!
Other than that.... with ANY tranny, it is virtually impossible to over rev the engine due to a built-in rev limiter in the computer. It cannot, however protect against improper downshifts at high speeds.
1) determine the o.d. of the tire
for example: P265-70-R16 tire size
265mm divided by 25.4mm/inch = 10.433"
10.433" times 70% aspect ratio = 7.303"
(7.303 times 2) + 16" = 30.61" O.D.
note: the times 2 above is for the top plus the
bottom of the tire and the 16" is the wheel
dia.
The formula for rpm is:
rpm = (mph x tire rev/mile x axle r. x trans gear)
/ 60
tire rev/mile = (5280 x 12)/(pi x tire O.D.)
= 63,360 / (3.1416 x 30.61)
= 658.9 rev/mile
note: 5280=ft/mile; 12"/ft; pi x O.D. = cir.
Now to fill in the equation with my axle ratio = 3.92, the overdrive's manual 5th gear is 0.73 and my mph will be 60 mph. The 60 in the denominator is a constant.
rpm = (60mph x 658.9 x 3.92 x 0.73) / 60
= 1885
Hope this helps someone. As you can see, the tire size, axle ratio, trans-x ratio are all part of the equation.
http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b111601.htm
As for tailspinning because the rear wheels lock up, this doesn't make sense to me. If the rear wheels lock up, the rest of the vehicle will drag the rear. Now if the fronts lock up, this could create a pivot point at the front axle. This I could see causing a tailspin.
Bookitty
This is not a measurement of your battery, it is intended to show the state of your charging system ( ALTERNATOR voltage )You may be accustomed to CURRENT gauges that used to be used in the past.
The nominal VOLTAGE of your battery is 12Volts after sitting for some time. (2 volts per cell with 6 cells)
A typical charging voltage for a lead-acid battery is considerd to be between 2.4 and 2.5 volts/cell. This works out to be between 14.4 and 15 volts on your gauge.
A standby (float) voltage is 2.3V-2.4V volts per cell. (13.3-14.4)
Of course, with the electrical load of your Dakota, the reading will vary. Additionally, there is a temperture gauge UNDERNEATH the battery on the Dakota. The output voltage of the alternator is varied based on the battery temperture.
If the battery is drained (lights left on or just started a cold engine) the charge rate will be MUCH higher for some period of time until the battery is fully charged again. The VOLTAGE is not higher... the CURRENT is higher. (voltage will be lower)
Is this enough "comments" for you? (electronics was my primary training in school)
By the way
My meter will go about a volt to the right of the 14V midpoint in cold wether when the temp gauge under the battery tells the alternator to increase the voltage a bit.
My meter is at its lowest (just LEFT of 14V) in HOT wether with the AC running at idle.
Mostly, my voltage is very slightly right of center while cruzing.
The BEST way to check the charging system is with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter)connected across the battery. The dash gauge should not be considerd extreemly accurate. (+/- .5 volts)
Good luck,
Dusty
What Hasel described is called the "Equipment Identification Plate." Although the Dakota service manual says this is located on the "left front of the inner hood panel," Hasel is correct that your 2002 should have it on the inside of the glove box door.
There is a "Body Code Plate" and the service manual says it is spot welded to the floor pan under the passenger seat on Dakotas. You must remove the seat to view this. This plate will give you other information such as interior trim (color) code, primary and secondary paint codes, engine code, transmission code, market code, etc.
There's a Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label on the underside of the hood on the right side. This provides some engine family, timing, sparkplug type and gap, and idle speed info.
There is also a Vehicle Safety Certification Label (VSCL) located on the front facing door jamb of the driver's front door. This contains the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR) and Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), the Vehicle Identification Number, rim size, tire size as shipped from the factory, number of axles, tire inflation pressures. It also contains the build date by month, day, and hour (MDH), the primary paint code, country of origin, and trim codes.
Good luck with your new Dakota.
Best regards,
Dusty
I fixed it once and it is leaking again some two years later. The dealership is useless. They just take more money and know results. Try contacting Dodge national customer service manager in Detroit, Michigan. They have helped me with other things, and got the dealer to cover some repairs.
I went with the mopar over autozone. Dodge warranties part and labor for 12 months or 12 thousand miles. With Autozone you save money but what's the reliability? and Warranty? They probably warranty the part but not labor. I don't think you'll find anybody to warranty the labor if the part goes, unless you do it your self. Good luck it's your call.
When you say ". When I put a volt meter in series w/ the 10 amp fuse slot (for the ABS), I read a partial short... Anybody know if I'm on the right track?"
I am not clear what you are expecting to measure and what reading you are seeing.
A "VoltMeter" cannot measure a "short" (That would be done with an OHMmeter)
If you are truly putting a VoltMeter in "series" with a fuse, then you are not measuring anything very meaningful. (I would expect that you would measure battery voltage if the key were turned on) I am wondering how in the world you got a voltmeter in "series" with a fuse. (most folks measure voltage across or "parallel" to a fuse)
If one measures in "series" with a fuse, it is usually CURRENT (amps) that would be measuerd. This value is most often measured if a fuse were constantly blowing. I would NOT recommend a novice to be making this measurement. (easy to fry your meter)
This leads me to ask some additional questions so I understand the conditions under which you are making measurements.
*)Why are you taking this measurement?
*)What voltage are you reading for each position of the keyswitch?
*)Do you have 2wheel or 4wheel ABS on your Dak?
I would not recommend that you mess with the ABS system very much. Failure of the ABS system may compromize your safety.
If you really wish to take some meaningful measurements, why not unscrew that sensor from the rear axle and test it with an ohmmeter on the bench? (2 wheel ABS only)
I bought a 2001 Dakota Sport Extended Cab 4x4 with the 4.7 V8 today (Intense Blue) with 46,000 miles on it. It's the first truck I've ever bought, and its the truck I've always wanted, so I'm real excited about it!
I have a couple of questions, and I was wondering if anybody could help me out. (Sorry if these have been posted before and I didn't find them on the search)
1. Where can I get an owner's manual? Is it possible to download a PDF online, or is hard copy the only thing available? The truck came with everything but that, and not only do I not know the maintenance schedule, I can't even set the darn clock on the CD player!
2. Are there any well known problems that I should watch out for (because its a 4x4, or problems with the 4.7 engine, or problems in general for the 2001 model)?
Thanks for any help you can give!
I have a 2000 Dak 4X4 and had the dealer throw in the shop manual. It is at least 3 inches thick and explains most of the mechanical systems in great detail. Either pay full price at a Dodge dealer or check out Ebay. Oftentiomes these can be found there.
Known problems?...
The 4.7L engine has been pretty bulletproof. Change the 6-quarts of oil every 5K miles and it will outlast the truck.
There is an "issue" with water-oil emulsion (AKA snot) buildup in the oil-fill tube. This is most evident in cooler weather. About once a week, remove the oil-fill cap and pull out the "baffle" (about 6-inch long insert inside the oil-fill tube). I can saturate 3 paper towles with the water that builds up in there.
Be prepared to replace the front brakes/rotors more frequently than with other vehicles. If you install the best components you can find, it will help.
original shock absorbers are cr$p. Mine wore out and were leaking in a year. Most folks install "Edelbrock IAS" which are perhaps the best available for the Dak.
If you replace all gear oils (front/rear diff, xfer case.) with RedLine, you can get about 2-4 more MPG.
A/C can be a bit whimpy, I have improved my A/C with some pipe-insulation. Ask if you want details.
The 2001 was somwhat "cheepened" by Dodge, the spare is not the same aluminum wheel as the other 4. The insulation under the hood was not installed on most 2001s. ... I can go on but you get the idea.
Dick
Dick - Thanks for the tip on clock changing and owners manual info. I've now got both in hand.
Vic
My dak had got to the point wheras over expansion joints (on bridges) the reazr end would "buck" about 4-6 inches to the side. This was VERY scary at 65MPH. Alsom I could not accelelrate over rough pavement because the rear wheels would "buck" all over the place.
After switching to the Edelbrock IAS absorbers, the rear end stays planted. I can acclerate at full-throttle in second gear and the rear end just 'squats' a little bit over the rough stuff.... but it NEVER "bucks" anymore.
As a bonus, the special valving in the Edelbrock IAS, actually improves cornering and braking because the absorbers are "smart enough" to remain "stiff" under those conditions.
Make no mistake, the Edelbrock IAS are a high-pressure MONOTUBE shock absorber. Not the cheaper design of a dual tube with low pressure in it. Also, the Edelbrock IAS patented valves require them to be installed "upside down" from what other absorbers normally are. This places the valves on the lower MOVING part of the mechinism. This allows a built-in weight to "sense" the accelleration of the wheel and instanty adjust the valves to control the wheel movement.
Their price was competitive and their website is very informative.
Do you know of anybody that's put an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system or aftermarket cold air kit on a 4.7 Dakota? I'm wondering if its worth the money.
My BORLA system has been thru several Vermont winters and has no rust at all.
A couple of things to consider when you look for cat-back system for the 4.7L.
1) Any more that 2.5inch diamater may LOSE power.
2) The so-called "dual" systems with 2 pipes from the muffler back add more weight and are not as good as a SINGLE pipe.
As far as INTAKES go, here are a few of my many links that I have bookmarked. Some are homemade and some are bolt-on. (I have a homemade one.)
http://www.360airintakez.com/
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/articles.php?do=coldair
http://members.aol.com/bsbets/truck/intake1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/intense79/intake.html
Here is perhaps the very best intake for the 4.7L. (The "Z-tube")
http://www.intenseperformance.com/
Here is a bolt-on SUPERCHARGER kit for the 4.7L:
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?id=50
My 2000 Dakota Quad with the 4.7 5 speed manual did not have the upshift light either. I believe that was used on the 4 or 6 cylinder motors only.
When my heater was set for on the floor I remember heat still coming from the defroster vents for the side windows.
I traded for a Ram 1500 in 2003 so I'm working from memory. Rick
In my '03 Dakota there is a small amount of air movement coming from the side window demisters when the heater mode switch is in the 'floor heat' position. At the moment I'm not sure about air coming out of the windshield defroster outlet, but let me say that I've found the Dakota is very quick to have the windshield mist up when in the floor heat mode. I usually run it in the floor-defroster split mode to prevent this. Maybe on the 2004s they increased some air movement through to the windshield to eliminate this problem.
Best regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
Thank again
Happy New Year to all, and the best of luck for the coming year.
Wayne
Thanks!!!
We're getting the truck back tonight. Supposedly, they've made and installed some sort of baffle that will deflect the rainwater out to the sides and keep it from coming into the truck. I don't even know where to go with this. Thanks for any advice/information!