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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

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Comments

  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Well to tell you both the truth. I took a good look under the hood. Not only is there a Tranny cooler (OEM - and i got under the truck and looked at the lines - so it is in fact there.!), there is also a power steering fluid cooler located by following the lines from the PS pump which sits right on the left front top side of motor. They are both incorporated into the same front radiator body (there are two of them), with the PS fluid coolling taking the top 30 % of that rad and the remainder being trans cooler.

    Other 05/06 Dak owners could confirm this..?

    I would like also to hear from anyone that has installed a fan-on-demand as opposed to one that is always running which is what I have in mine. Now it may be that due to the the way the motor is cooled with the Tstat being one that has a small bypass valve, one should not put in a fan-on-demand type. However if you have... Does it work well,

    What's the opinion out there.?

    Thanx,

    stk
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    Pleas clarify. Do you just have the OEM tranny cooler that is located in the bottom of the radiator... or do you have a separate tranny cooler located in front of the radiator. with regard to the engine thermostat the factory is 195. I changed mine out to a 180 last year and have had no problems. My opinion,I do not believe the cost of an electric fan and removal of the existing fan blade is worth the increase in power benifits.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    DONT REMOVE THE MECHANICAL FAN! It is thermostatically controlled. It basically "freewheels" most of the time...but if it senses the air coming thru the radiator over a specific temperture, it will "lock up" to the shaft and start to move a lot of air. You will know if this happens because the fan will start to noticably ROAR as the engine is revd.

    My dak has an electric radiator fan also, it comes on when the AC is enguaged.
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Well first of all. I do not in fact have a PS cooler..duh ..was looking at the AC pump and it has some lines going into the front thin small rad.!!

    As for the Tranny cooler: You are right mike. I do not have a full blown cooler for the trans...hope I can get one installed in the next 3 days. Don't want to be sitting in Golden, BC with a blown tranny..!!! YIKes..!
    I noticed that the AC cooler has two receptacles for a bolt on OEM Trans cooler. Will check it out in the AM for price and installation.

    ...and yup the fan is in fact an electro-static fan. Gonna leave that alone too. man oh man..the learnin just keeps coming.!

    thanx big time - glad I had a second look and glad for the comments/your query.!!

    stk
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    Could you please write a follow-up after you have the bolt-on OEM trans cooler done. Also the part number would be nice. Presently I am planing on adding a hayden 1679 cooler and bypassing the factory-in-radiator one. Also adding a temp sensor ahead of the cooler with a gauge pod mounted on the steering column. I do not want to modify the original transmission lines. I believe the existing quick disconnects that are on the radiator can be removed and reused in a modified connection to the after market radiator. I have not checked this out yet. I was hoping your dealer install of a OEM bolt-on would shed some light since they keep tell me no aux trans cooler is available. Thanks for the responses. mike
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Hey Mike..

    I will write a follow up..but I am not so sure I am going with a dealer install. (not avail..?? - weird..it's part of the "tow pkg"). They tend to be a bit of a rip..Last time I was qutoed 425 for a trans cooler for a Montana (my previous Co. unit). Got it done for 225 cooler incl. at a private garage.

    I did some looking around last night and think I will go with either a B & M or a Hayden like yourself. I,ve seen pricing in the 50-100 range CAD. What I want to know is which of the two lines is the return line to the Tranny.? I was thinking a bit about how to install the plumbing and think I will go in series. But put the cooler on the return line from the small cooler in the rad. That way the fluid should be coolest going back to the tranny. That might just work as a 2 stage cooler..?

    BTW. I would like to know what PN & where you got that 180 Tstat..?? ( I thought about this too...if the motor is only good running at 195..how does it even drive when cold in the AM..Nah I am sure a 180 would work..!!)so yea
    I would like to know what you put in.?

    Temp sensor for trans cooler would be a good idea..I will look into doing that as well.

    Well it's real early here (5:56 Am) and gotta go to Red Deer (Dead Rear), this AM. But will be hunting for a Trans cooler this aft.

    talk to ya.

    stk (Theo)
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    Hi Theo

    I put in a NAPA superstat Part # 530080. Now this stat is not listed for a dakota it comes back as for a ford something in their parts book. It does work. You have to get a new gasket from the dealer as it is a rubber ring that slips around the edge of the stat. There is a notch on the edge of the factory stat. Using a small file you can put a notch in the new stat so the gasket rubber ring fits properly. Now I reused the existing gasket and had no problem with leaking. But I do not recommend doing this. The Superstat is $7.00 at NAPA. Now you can also get a direct replacement one from Jet performance thermostats the part # is 10177 it cost $30.00 from SummitRacing.com. I am not sure if it comes with the gasket rubber ring.
    Hope this was helpful for you. If you check the other forum sites, you will find both pro's and con's to this modification. Most who have done the change like it. Those apposed do not indicate what problems you would have,some do not know just don't recommend it. Make sure you leave the radiator cap off until the engine comes up to temp to make sure no air was trapped in the cooling system. Whether factory or aftermarket it will overheat with trapped air. If you need more coolant use the correct type and do not add water to the coolant, I believe the owner's manual indicates this.Also when these type of thermostats fail, they fail in the open position and the engine will run too cold. I'll be looking for your write up. Mike
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Mike.

    Great info on the Tstat. will look for that and i would love to know how/where it goes..?? Seems a bit strange to have to possibly remove the alt to get at where I would think the Tstat goes..?...and yea I have seen the rubber gasket when I went looking for a 180..a bit different but I know what it looks like...cool.

    let me know

    I bought a Trans Cooler by "Long" for $ 70.00 CAD today in a Red Deer Tranny Place. Installed the cooler body no problem. The pkg. came supplied with enough brackets and HD screws/bolts-nuts-locks-hose to do this easily. When I went to remove the return line (looking from the front of the engine compartment, it is the one on the right side of the rad), it leaked a bit of rad fluid. Don't worry about it, just remove the nut (7/8" wrench stubby if you got one or a line wrench of that size), and pull the fitting out. It is a bit of a weird set-up as the brass block (inside the bottom part of the rad), that the fittings are attached to seems to be loose inside it's compartment...and at first it made it a bit difficult to re-insert the fitting. Just push on the steel tubing and it will take.

    BTW..I do not think you can get away without using this so called OEM cooler, as without fittings in them, it will leak out rad fluid.

    Anyway I cut the return line in two and used 2 dbl. barbed hose nipples (3/8"), and connected the cooler lines to the cut ends. I used Oetiker style clamps..std fare in a welding supply shop. They are the crimp type on 2 sides of the clamp and once crimped, will never let go...but you will need the crimping plier to do it.

    Once installed, I ran the engine for about 10 minutes to check for leaks .. found none .. so it seems good to go.!

    Wish I had my digital camera (got stolen at the Global Petroleum Show here last week)...Anyway when I get my new one I will post some pics on webshots:

    http://community.webshots.com/user/steak2k1

    Rgds,

    Theo
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    Theo,

    If I understand you correctly. If I remove the two quick disconnects that appear to be threaded into the radiator housing which are actually threaded into the transmission cooler coil unit located inside the radiator and this unit will fall away from the inside of the radiator housing and all the coolant inside the radiator will drain out.

    Wow I didn't realize the radiator was build that cheap. I hope I find a source for the quick disconnect fittings. I really do not want to cut into the factory lines. Thanks for all your help.

    Also the thermostat is located in the lower left front of the engine. The lower radiator hose is connected to the thermostat housing. Drain the radiator, remove the lower radiator house, remove the thermostat housing two bolts, pay close attention to how thermostat is installed so you do not re-install it backwards. Be careful that stat is align correctly. You can break the stat housing, damage bolts or engine housing threads if you do not take your time. I found it best to work from underneath truck. Just don't get any coolant in your face.

    Good luck, Mike
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Mike

    Pics are up BTW.

    I don't think that the brass block will fall away as there is very little room for it to go anywhere. I did not however have both of the lines off at the same time. And if these are considered quick-disconnect...I would hate to see what a normal connect is..!! I had to use a stubby 7/8 wrench to get them off. Although the cooler I bought came with extra fittings, none of them seemed to match the threading in said brass block. That is why I went with splicing the lines. It is OK to do so as long as you use good clamps )...std hose clamps are in my opinion - useless. If required use good size dbl barbed nipples (3/8).

    You will not loose all your rad fluid at all...just a few drips/drops will come out but they will come out continuously.

    The fittings I believe are some sort of hydraulic type compression fitting as it has a flare which you will see when you go to remove the return line.

    While I was at Best Buy performance here in Calgary, I bought an inline filter for the cooler as well..fairly inexpensive I thought at $35.00CAD .. it too is installed on the return line after the cooler...now having given this some thought now, I probably should have put it into the "in" line side of the cooler as opposed to the last thing before it goes back to the tranny. oh well...can't hurt I feel.

    Today I finally received my Magnaflow exhaust..damned glad I had a torch here as the old clamps were almost impossible to remove without it. Once the old system was out it was only 15 minutes to install the magnaflow...nice sound, and we shall see in the ensuing time how much of a performance improvement it is. It's just too bad superchips hasn't come up with a programmer just yet...I hear end of summer maybe.

    Well only thing left before I go to BC is to get the brakes done...(company expense). May as well, as I hear some squealing.

    curious..have you had any weird things go with your rakes.?? After first getting this truck and if I would step on them real hard I got a shuddering/front end shaking happening that is not (IMHOP), the anti skid braking system. Talked to Dodge and they said at the time there was nothing wrong. Go figure .. A dealer not accepting that their brakes SUCK.?? Imagine that..!! (sic). Just got to read the LemonAide guide and see how many complain about Dodge Brakes..!!

    Anyway, I took it back in at around 22k and they said I needed all new brakes and charged me for them too.!! I was choked. I'm at 93K at this time ... do lots of business driving.! I will probably have 135 -140 by April and then I can buy it for cheap.

    anyway...I'll try to post again before I leave on Thursday noon.

    have a great weekend Mike.!

    Theo
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    Theo,

    I now realize why you used the 7/8 open end wrench. You are not aware how the quick disconnects work. It takes a special tool to remove the fitting from the 3/8" tubing. It can be picked apart but you can damage the spring.Best way is the quick disconnect tool less than 10 bucks at most parts stores.

    I replaced my muffler right after I bought it with a 14" magnaflow sounds great and the rest of the exhaust system is stock other than a stainless steel tip.

    Have had no problems with my brakes. [non-permissible content removed] luck on the brake issue.
  • au1994au1994 Member Posts: 3,343
    What does everyone think a fair price on a new QC Dakota, 4.7, auto, 26E pkg, premium 40/20/40 seat would be?

    The incentives on the Dakota and Ram have me interested and I may be wandering down to the dealership the weekend.

    thanks!

    2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4xe Granite Crystal over Saddle
    2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
    2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha

  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    2005 SLT CLUB CAB 4X4 with 5 speed automatic,4.7L, 40/20/40 split bench seat, 26E pkg, 17" x8" aluminum chrome clad wheels, electric full time 4WD T-case, spray in bed liner, aluminum gas cover, rear mud flaps, willmore nerf bar,dodge class IV hitch wired, with 8.7 percent state sales taxes included bought brand new last august 26206.04 with no trade in.
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Mike..you are right..I sure did not know about the QC lines. anyway..got the job done. Cooler worked just fine as did the inline filter.

    The Dak is a bit underpowered for pulling my trailer (4200-4400 lbs loaded)...mind you low end tourque is the real issue. Going through the Rockies was not as problematic as I had imagined. A couple of spots (Rogers Pass & the first part of the Coquihalla), that were in excess of 6% required first gear and 4000 rpm. I just shifted in first or second manually and kept revs up to a max of 4500. But for the most part the ride went smooth and engine heating was not really an issue with temps going just past 1/2 on only a couple of occaisions. Outside temps were at the worst near Kamploops where it was +40C on Sunday. So all in all I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. Have to admit that when under a tow load, that Magnflow gives off a fair bit of noise.

    As far as gas mileage...well we won't go there..!! (-%

    I was getting avg 350 Km per tank and that was using premium at $1.28 / L in some spots. Whoever says that they don't raise prices on long weekends is fulll of crap. They do and it happens all the time.!!

    rgds,

    theo
  • dave112dave112 Member Posts: 3
    this is my first time buying a truck and i need some advice. I went to a dealerships website and found a nice 2003 dodge dakota sport(extended,3.9L V6, 22K mileage, and a ton of features) for 13,900. The next day i went to the dealership and the asking price was 16,000 but they said the lowest they can go is the online price (13,900). With taxes it would be a total of 15000. I wasnt sure what to do so I said I'll think about it. Does anyone have any advice for me. I checked other websites and I couldnt find any thing better.
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    There are alot of incentives on new dakota's. If I were you, Check out the new one's first. The best price's may only be a few thousand more. Also something to think about.Warrenty transfer. I believe the 2003 has a 7/70 warrenty and the new dakota's only have a 3/36. Please don't leap for the first one you see. There are lots of good deals just look around first.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This may be a great time to remind everyone that they can get a $500 refund for buying a Dodge by joining their local Farm Bureau for $50.

    This is a guaranteed conversion of $50 ==>$500 - you cant do that good in the stock market on a good day!
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    First thing to ask is what is your application for purchasing a truck.? Will it be used for towing, city driving, hwy driving, or a combination of all of the above.

    I drive an '05 4.7L magnum SLT QC. Reasonable room in the rear for two teenagers. Front seats are heated and drivers is adjustable. Decent truck and as can be read prior to this post seems to be OK on towing .. although I would not want to max out Chryslers rating (7000lbs).

    Avg hwy mileage seems to be 21-23mpg depending on tail/head wind..!! No major problems and I am at 94,800km (59250 Miles). City mileage is probably in the 14-16 mpg range. The bed is about 5.5-6'...never measured it. but big enough that I can haul some drywall and 4X8 sheets of whatever.

    Only problem I had was with my brakes...that being that Dodge has still not figured out how to mix front disc with rear drum brakes and the first chance I get I am going to convert to rear discs. Read my earler post on what the problem was and how nicely (sic), they dealt with it.

    Only other thing that gets me is the interior cloth sucks as it gets very dirty - very quickly..now one chould take that comment with a grain of salt as I am in the vehicle nearly 2-4 hours out of every 8-10 hr. day

    Advise you check out the LemonAid Guide (or online). Don't buy all the BS in auto mags as many are paid (hmm I wonder by who..??), to say what they write.

    All in all though I am pretty happy with the unit and when the Co. decides it is time for me to go with a new veicle, I will very very likely buy it.

    Tricks done to date:

    K&N CAI, MagnaFlow 3" SS Exhaust, Long Trans Cooler w/Inline Filter, Roll-n-Lock Tonneau Cover, Spray-in Bed Liner, Le-Bra, Toyo 16" "wear like iron" tires, 180 Deg Tstat, (see Mikes Posting in this thread)..thanks to MIKe on that one..!! (got it today).

    Waiting patiently for SuperChips to come out with the chip.

    rgds,

    Theo
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Well the title says it all.

    I did install the 180 yesterday and probably did a couple of things wrong: did not let engine heat up and then put rad cap on. Went for a small drive and temp went to near H.! OK so I learned on this one.

    What i do notice is that on the OEM stat and on the side flange there appears to be a small brass tube with a tiny steel ball on the one side. I gather this is the "bypass" that bPebbles was mentioning. Well on the 180 unit it of course does not have the bypass. i am wondering if a small hole drilled into the flange would work..??

    I am going to try this and will report back as to what goes on. Also need to find the engine temp sensor and make sure it is in OK shape. That can be tested with an Ohm Meter set for 20K. Any resistance at all indicates it is functioning normally...so I am told.!

    Rgds,

    Theo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    did you "burp" the system to eliminate air pockets? There is a procedure for burping the system which includes using the "burping valve" at the high spot of the cooling system.

    Also - are you certain that the thermostat you installed is compatable with a "bypass" cooling system? (uses the thermostat to mix the cold [radiator out] and hot [engine out] flows to produce the proper temperature into the engine)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Are you getting a "Check Gauges" indicator illumination? If not, the PCM believes that the engine is operating at "normal" temperature (between 130 and 264F).

    THe Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is located on the front of the engine just below the MAP sensor. It has two wires. I can't tell you what the DC resistance range is, but as the temperature increases the sensor resistance decreases.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Dusty..your comment on the bypass is bang on the dollar. Given that this 4.7 uses said system, I did not use a "bypass" tstat. However I sure would love to get my hands on one if anyone knows where to acquire..??

    The 05/06 4.7 Tstat is standard all way round except on one part of the flange, there is samll ~1/8" hole with a brass pin that has flared ends on either side of the Tstat flange.

    This apparently opens and closes to allow mixing of the fluids on either side (I am assuming this is how the unit works).

    Reason I am after a 180, is simply to keep engine cooler while towing. This came toa head just 2 days ago coming back from a camping trip through Southern BC. Took the Salmo-Kooteny Pass and man oh man that is some grade...up to 8% is parts and minimum 6% overall - 35 Km of it.!!

    I was pulling 4360 lbs. (I'd gone over the scales that AM). Temperature was 32C and about 3/4 of the way up I was in 1st gear doing 40 klicks at about 4200 rpm. She heated up good. That was the only time I ever seen the dash sensor light come on. A tad alarming..!

    Pulled over, reved it up at 1800 in park and let the motor cool down...did that twice and we finally hit the summit.

    After that I had no problems the rest of the 450 km trip home.

    So if anyone knows where one can acquire a 54mm OD Tstat that is of the "bypass" type..I would love to hear aout it.

    Thanx in advanz,

    Theo
  • sifuentesvsifuentesv Member Posts: 1
    Driving home from work and the abs and parking light comes on. Then the head lights and instrument panel goes out. Can so one help me on where to start first. Oh by the way the rpm gauge comes on and off and the fuel gauge moves.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is I that have been touting the "bypass" cooling system to you for several weeks. Your description of how a "bypass" thermostat works is incomplete.

    A "bypass" thermostat actually "reads" the temperature of the coolant ENTERING the engine. You can think as the "bypass" as the "hot" antifreeze coming out of the engine and the "cold" as being from the radiator. The thermostat then constantly mixes these two flows to maintain the target tempurture.

    When engine is 'cold', the thermostat seals off the outlet of the radiator and only allows the coolant to flow thru the bypass circuit effectively recirculating all the antifreeze in the engine around and around. This happens until the "target" temperature is reached. (this allows for faster warmups...thus less emmissions)

    At this point, a measured amount of 'cold' antifreeze is allowed out of the radiator to enter the flow. The thermostat constantly "reads" the temperature entering the engine and adjusts the mix of "cold" and "hot" antifreeze to maintain the target tempurature.

    Under extreme conditions, the thermostat can actually CLOSE OFF the bypass flow and forces ALL the flow to come from the radiator to enter the engine. (this condition may never actually ever occour.)

    The "hole" in the thermostat which you describe allows a very small amount of flow even when the radiator outlet is "sealed off". This small flow allows the antifreeze in the radiator to warm up a bit before it is 'used' in the engine. This is done to keep the engine block from cracking in cold wetaher. Without the hole, it would be possible for -10F antifreeze to flow into a hot engine when the thermostant opens up the radiator outlet. (the engineblock would instantly crack wide open due to this condition!!)

    Installing a regular NON-bypass thermostat can effectively scru up the entire cooling system because it does not have the proper components to throttle the "hot" and "cold" flows. Most likely, your cooling system would be incapaable of maintaining a constant tempurture.

    A bypass cooling system is so effective, that is why I have recommended to you several times to just leave the original alone. Changing the thermostat to a lower temturture can really mess with the onboard computer because it has several functions that need to key off of the designed target temparture.

    If you INSIST on installing a thermostat that deviates from the designed target tempurture, there are some places that offer such a device.... but beware, your onboard computer may never be "satisfied" that the engine has warmed up thus make for poor encoomy and generally unsatisfactory running.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Noise produced by the fan clutch on a Dodge truck is normal.

    The Dodge engines use a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans contain a high density silicone filled coupling that connects the fan blades to the water pump shaft. This design utilizes a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air.

    As the discharge air temperature through the radiator approaches 165 to 180 degress F, the bimetalic exerts pressure against a slip clutch and allows power of the water pump shaft to be transmitted through hydrostatic coupling to the fan assembly. This raises the speed of the fan blades and increases air flow through the radiator to provide increased cooling.

    Sometimes after a vehicle has been driven to operating temperature the bimetalic spring may expand to the maximum coupling position due to localized heat from the engine or radiator after shutdown. After a cooling period the spring may not contract or contract fully. Upon restart the expanded spring causes the fan to spin at engine RPM until enough cool air has been drawn through the radiator, Then the spring contracts. This is what causes that momentary period when the fan is heard after restarts.

    Testing the Fan Clutch Assembly

    If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag for more than five revolutions when spun by hand, the fan clutch assembly is defective. This test must be conducted when the engine is completely cool.

    Fan drive engagement begins when the radiator discharge air flow is between 165 to 180 degrees F. Disengagement begins when the air flow temperature is between 135 to 175 degress F.

    There should be no perceptible lateral movement of the fan blades. If so, the fan assembly is defective.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Theo,

    It wasn't me but Bpeebles, who by the way has given some very good advice.

    The bypass thermostat is available from any Dodge dealer.

    As Bpeebles pointed out, a lower operating temperature will affect emission controls and cause less than optimum engine and vehicle operation. Long engine warm-ups and increase fuel consumption can result. In addition, because of the way the bypass type thermostat operates by providing bypass galleries in the engine block with coolant, you may actually find that a non-bypass thermostat might cause engine block hot spots. What this might cause I do not know.

    However, 4.7 equiped Dakotas tow very well in all temperatures from my experience. If you've encountered overheating I would first suspect something else is wrong, either the radiator is partially blocked, the thermostatic fan clutch is defective, or the radiator fan motor is inoperative.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    Hey Bpebbles...no nead to lecture..OK??

    For one and as I said previously, I re-installed the OEM 195 deg Tstat. After that, I had done, professionally, a complete cooling system change. (non Glycol type). All this was three weeks ago and prior to my vacation trip.

    I do appreciate the technical explanation of the "bypass".
    ..a 180 is not in the picture.

    The Hwy I traveled is called Hwy #3 in Southern BC. Check it out. And I can tell you that towing 4300 lbs (checked on the scale), on an 8% grade, at 4-5000' Above sea level and at an outside ambient temperature of around 90+F with a tail wind..It overheated. Ie; the engine temp light came on. The temp gauge was about half way between middle and Overheat.

    Now, do I believe there is/was some other thing wrong with my motor..?? No, not at all.

    It was damned HOT is all.!
    The motor worked damned HARD is all.! 1st gear at 4500 rpm
    It was damned STEEP is all.!
    I was towing 4300 lbs is all.

    Let me tell ya that this climb was an itch with a B.!
    This was not the little hills in the Adirondaks of up State NY nor the so called "Rockies" of Idaho cause I've driven those and they are nothing campared to what we have here. Don't believe me..?? Y'all come and see for your self.

    No Offense Dusty, but just about anything would have overheated in those conditions..!! As a matter of fact we were not the only ones pulling over in the conveniently placed rest zones (every 300 m) on the shoulder overlooking a 700' drop to the valley below. And ya know, we only had to pull over twice right near the summit. So IMHOP it was not really a huge deal although I was concerned at the time.

    Traveling on ~flat type of terrain, these units tows very well indeed. Given I use Premium gas and I use synthetic lubes all round...Bpebbles would be happy to note that I indeed took his advice and used Redline.!

    Overall am quite pleased at how the unit performed. But towing in the CDN Rockies is another story. Short of putting a larger engine with way more low end torque and or different gear ratio..not much else to add to this pupply. 'cept the chip.

    Not to worry guys, I promise I won't look at another Tstat again.! (-% :)

    Theo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It was not meant to be a "lecture" -- this is the Dakota FAQ forum and I was submitting a detailed explanation on how the bypass cooling system works. Now folks who need info about their cooling system can get a solid foundation about how it works by looking it up here in the FAQ forum.

    If you wish to chat about your dakota or ask questions -- there are several other forums here on edmunds that are better suited than this FAQ forum.
  • steak2k1steak2k1 Member Posts: 24
    That's fine. I too learned. However it did come across as such. Ergo the comment.

    Theo
  • fiafia6fiafia6 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 dodge dakota sport quad cab with over 100,000k mi now. My Check eng light came on about 5 or 6,000 back. I haven't done anything quite yet with it but figured i find out if anyone could help me before i start looking at basic troubleshooting procedures. Thanks
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    You can start by retrieving the OBD codes with the ignition key trick. Turn the ignition key from "off" to "on" three times ending in the "on" position. The OBD codes will display in the odometer ending with "Pdone". It may time a couple of tries to get it just right (at least it does with me!)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    HINT: Do not start the engine when you are pulling the codes... you just want to go to the "on" position 3 times then stay there on the last time.

    Then go to this website or here, or here to look up what the codes mean.
  • 99dktaguy99dktaguy Member Posts: 2
    and there's also a 3.21 ratio rear end. i have a 99 dakota 3.9 sport with it.
  • jdashnawjdashnaw Member Posts: 1
    When I excellorate with my 2002 dakota it revs up and then goes, even though it is all the way in gear. any one know the problem I have an automatic
  • shoto1shoto1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm getting ready to order a 2008 TRX4 Dodge Dakota (crewcab) with towing package, 3.92 gears, and full time 4 wheel drive. While looking at the Dakota brochure, it looks like if you order the part-time 4 wheel drive system you get the 9.25 axle and if you order the full-time 4 wheel drive, you get the 8.25 axle.

    Does anyone know why you would get a smaller axle size with the full time 4-wheel drive as compared to the part-time 4-wheel drive? The dealership doesn't know exactly why this appears to be the case.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure. In the past the differential gearset size was dependent on the GVW rating of the vehicle.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kpierce05kpierce05 Member Posts: 1
    I put 2007 chrome 20" Ram wheels on my 2005 Dakota club cab. I love the look. ust wondering if anyone else has tried this? And if so what size tire did you use. I got 285/50/20. They only rub barely in a deep turn but otherwise I love the look.
  • mrzeeemrzeee Member Posts: 1
    I cant seem to pull the PCV valve out. I turned it 1/4 turn and pulled it up at all angles. It wont budge. There is a flange thing that sits on top of the valve cover that the pcv valve goes into...I am hesitant to mess with that ... I thought the pcv valve should just pull up. Any ideas?
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