Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

pirat5 · January 2001

Hi everybody!
I have 2000 4.7l,4X4, auto with 20K miles on it. Gas mileage never got better than 16miles/gal. I have cab and always some weight on the back. Pretty happy so far. Last winter I noticed that foaming and moisture in oil filling tube. I called the dealer, of course it's normal. This winter besides that there is also brown, rusty sludge on the walls and cap. I tried my dealer again, not to worry it's normal. After calling few other dealers around, I decided to call Chrysler. All the sudden there is a problem, and they have a kit to fix it. As you already know the cap and baffle. If your dealer pretends, he doesn't know what you talking about tell him to go on his computer to TSB and go to post#0900100A, this should open his eyes. Other posts worth attention are #0900999 (ticking noise) and 0802200A (camshaft position sensor). I was trying to fix ticking noise since I bought the truck, nobody at service could hear it, as always. Never found any noise from camshaft. Maybe changing cap and baffle will help, but other thing worth consideration is switching into synthetic oil. I heart that regular oils can absorb some moisture and this will change their characteristics. Synthetic supposedly repeals all moisture. I was always skeptical about synthetic oil and proffered frequent oil changes, but maybe it's time to change. Did anybody changed air filter with K&N. If so, have you noticed any improvement in gas mileage and power, also where did you buy it?. Last thing. I broke one of the fog lights. Dealer wants almost $100. I thing this is ridiculous, for such a piece of... Did anybody get them after market or decent brand that fits opening in the bumper. Thanks for attention. Good luck with your trucks!

iowabigguy · January 2001

Check on bay under Dodge Dakota. There is a set of driving lights that replace the fog lamps going for $71 for the set right now. I've also seen the factory fog lamps on ebay too when people upgrade. I also think that the fog lamp kit from Dodge (Mopar) with discount should be in the $100 range.
Sludge in oil filler - continued-- I got the replacement filler cap and baffle about 1500 - 2000 miles ago, just after my last oil change. When I got gas last time the oil filler neck was fuller than normal with brown/yellow gunk. Now it not only collects on the side of the tube but collects all over the baffle too! I'm going to try Mobile one next oil change along with the Mopar filter. Rick

mrjake · January 2001

PIRAT5, like yourself, I have a 2000, 4.7L, 4X4, auto. Just did first oil change at 2200 miles. Noticed the same thing that the oil filler funnel was all coated with brown slimy gun. Wasn't to happy to see that. Changed the oil to synthetic Moil 1 5W-30. Time will tell if that helps. Has the replacement cap and baffle helped at all in your case? Doesn't seem to have helped for Rick's truck.
Also, I know my truck wasn't been fully broke in yet but, getting about 10-11 mpg in town, and 13-15 highway. Looking forward to that hopefully improving in the future. Might have to look into some of the new intake systems. Other than that, this truck is great! Love the looks and power.

greg116 · January 2001

I've been reading these boards for a while now and I'm closer to a choice. My question:

What is the BIGGEST design-related complaint you have with your truck besides fuel economy? i.e: Rear seat too small, engine underpowered, seatbelts rub funny etc etc... Tell me all!

steve234 · January 2001

When I was checking out the Dakota, I did check out the seats which is how I found out they are identical. The difference between the 01 and 2k is the mounting for the center seat(very minor). The center seat is bolted to the front bucket seat frames. In the back is a brace that bolts to the inside back corners of the seats and the front is held by a pair of brakets that are mounted a couple of inches back on the guide rails. To remove it, you must take out the bolts on the back and then drill out the rivets (4). Then take the bolts out from under the center seat and remove the seat. Then you can remove the front brackets. Hopefully, these are not riveted.
As far as the impression that the seats are different, with the arm rest down, it makes things snugger for us big guys and with it up, it intrudes into shoulder area with the seat all the way back. On problem that I had with the factory console was that I tried to open one while in the seat and found that it was diificult to get things in and out of it without being in an awkward driving position. I had found several nice units at placed like Wal-mart and other places that have sliding lids. Just have to find the perfect one and convince my wife.

bmwjoe · January 2001

Hi,

I have a 1998 2WD CC with 5.2l and 5-speed. I have 14k well coddled miles. I love this truck.

The other morning it was 10°F and the truck did not crank. I turned the key and all I got was a relay clicking. The lights were bright and did not dim when I turned the key.

The truck ran fine the day before.

I jumped the battery with a motorcycle battery with 1/2 charge and the truck cranked like crazy and started right up! There is no way this tiny battery started a 5.2l V8. The truck started 2-3 times during the day w/o problem.

The next day the truck started fine, but it was not as cold. The day after it was also below 10°F and the truck did not start. Again, jumping with the motorcycle battery did the trick.

I took it to the dealer and they checked the battery and charging system. All OK. They also cleaned the connections and grounds. They were fine too.

I am sure there is a component, like a relay that malfunctions in the cold and a few more volts makes it start. In order to get the dealer to fix it I will have to leave it at the dealer when it is 10°F out. This can be a challenge.

Has anyone had a similar problem? Any ideas what the faulty component is? All help is appreciated.

Drive Safe,

Joe

bookitty · January 2001

Joe, when the dealer checked the battery, did they use a battery testing meter where variable loads can be achieved? I had a battery problem with my 1995 Dakota, and also a boat battery that operated similar to that which you are experiencing. I checked both batteries with a preloaded battery tester and they read "okay." I borrowed a variable load tester, and when a heavy load was applied the voltage plummeted. Worth a try if it has not yet been done. I just hate a mystery!

Bookitty

bpeebles · January 2001

(bmwjoe) The secret in your append is the statement: "The lights were bright and did not dim when I turned the key."

This means that the BATTERY is not at fault. Instead, There is a poor connecion between battery and starter. This could be anything between the +battery terminal and the starter motor (or) -battery and engine block.

Some simple tests with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) while it is acting up would isolate the trouble in no time.

rmfroyd · February 2001

I am new to this owners group so maybe you have previously discussed this subject but I will give it a shot anyway. I recently purchased a 2001 Dakota club cab ST with the 3.9 six in it. I was curious as to when I should change oil. I have heard anywhere from 500 miles to 3000 miles. I was also curious as to when I can start using synthetic. I have heard to wait at least 3000 and at most 10,000. The dealer told me to do it right away, but I thought engines went through a break in period. Any help would be appreciated.

One other question, does anybody know if a person can receive another dealer survey directly from Dodge. I told my dealer that I was unhappy with how my purchase went down, he told me to bring in my survey when I received it in the mail. Well, I brought it in without it filled out, he ushered me to service and I got a free bed liner. I am appreciative that I got a free bed liner, however I was still unable to fill out the survey, because he took off as soon as I gave it to him. I would like to get another survey but I am not sure if I can get one or how to go about getting one. Once again any help would be appreciated. Thanks

ohc_baby · February 2001

Go to www.dcanswers.com and go to the feedback page. Someone will call or e-mail you back within the hour usually, and are pretty eager to help.

tuvtest · February 2001

-Oil change interval opinions are like fingerprints. Everybody has them nobody's ever match. Personally I do mine at .5k,1k and every 2k after that (dino oil). I prefer to get out all the assembly gunk quickly. For most people changing it every 3mos./3k if you use dino oil is standard. Synthetic can go longer intervals but should not be used until about 3-5k to allow the piston rings to seat. I believe most of the syn users here change every 6-7.5k.
- It amazes me, although it shouldn't, the stupid s**t some dealers pull. Your survey is already at DC filled out with a perfect score I'm sure. What I would do is contact DC customer service listed in your manual, explain the situation (leave out the bedliner) and request a new survey to tell the real story about these shysters.

yellowjeeptj · February 2001

I am going to be ordering a 2001 Dakota Club Cab Sport within a week. I need to pick an axle ratio and want to know the pros and cons of each. If it matters I am getting a 4.7 4x4 Automatic with every option except full time 4wheel drive. Any help you can give will be appreciated.

donamy · February 2001

I too had the same chioce to make. I chose the 3.92 because I will be towing a 16 ft car trailer occasionally. I Have a 2wd 4.7, 5-speed hith the tow haul package and the sport handling group. I also like that rearend for the extra snap of the line. It really makes the truck a real sleeper. I am turning 2000 rpm at 60 mph. I asked around to see what the guys were running with the 3.55's and the response was around 1600 the 1800. Hope this helps.

Don

greg116 · February 2001

The 3.55 is the standard ratio. If you arent going to be doing any drag racing or heavy towing, then go for it. Gas mileage will be better and your engine will rev lower at highway speeds. It's my choice.

On the other hand, the 3.92 is good and bad for all the things I mentioned above. You can tow more and burn more, but not just rubber.

In a nutshell: 3.55= Standard duty and highway cruising, 3.92= Towing and acceleration.

biggbbp · February 2001

I am picking up my new Club Cab 4x4 4.7L in the morning, needless to say sleeping tonight will bring back memories of Christmas Eve as a kid. Could someone offer some advice on bedliner options?? The dodge factory is expensive and would like an aftermarket. But unsure of over vs under rail?? WIll it affect a tonneau cover later on?? I thought of going with an underrail and adding diamond plated top rail strips, but then a over rail liner may be the best choice. Now I see this Bed Rug and am getting even more confused...Any help is greatly appreciated!

deckdog1 · February 2001

Have a 99 club cab and got into a small accident over the weekend. Slid into the back of another truck on ice at about 15 m.p.h. Lower part of bumper cracked and fog lights were knocked out but lamps did not break. Both airbags deployed as a result. Am I wrong or aren't the airbags supposed to deploy at speeds of 25 to 30 m.p.h.?Bad part is the entire dash and steering wheel must be replaced to the tune of around $4000.00.If anyone knows the speed for airbag deployment I would appreciate any info. Thanks. deckdog1

donamy · February 2001

Just got mine back from the body shop from an accident that happened in a recent ice storm. I slid into the back of a F350 (ouch). He was doing I 'd say 45 and I was doing 55 to 60 at the time of impact. Our bumpers did not even come close to lining up. Everything from my bumper up moved back 12 inchs(this is bringing back bad memories). Hood never made it to the windshield, and the fenders never made it to the doors. The airbags never deployed(thankfully). Final bill was $8600.00. The truck only had 368 miles on it. (I am now crying again). Shortly after my friend and I got calmed down, we looked at each other and said,"I wonder why the bags didn't slap some sense into us." I too am wondering if my bags are really working, I mean its not something you can easily test.

tuvtest · February 2001

-deckdog1- I've seen airbags go off on impacts as low as 5mph. Ideally they are set to go off at 20-30 in tests hitting a solid object square. In reality if you change the angle a little it may concentrait the impact more in the sensor area causing deployment.
-donamy- I have not looked into exact placement of the sensors on the Daks, but they are commonly mounted low, inline with the bumpers. So, if you peeled everything back above the bumpers w/o damaging the lower area you probably missed the sensors. Airbag systems have become one of the most reliable systems in cars. The sensors a designed with gold contacts to resist corrosion and some systems even have redundant circuits inside the control box, which is usually in the more hospitable environment of the interior of the car. Though they have gotten bad rap in the media, coupled with seat belts, they greatly increase your chances of walking away from an accident.

harleyart · February 2001

For anybody that has not picked up their truck yet, the incentive was changed today to $2000.00. Don't let your dealer say it's $1000.00. My truck was delivered last Friday but I didn't pick it up because my 30 days for the farm rebate isn't up till Thursday. Glad I waited. Will pick truck up on Saturday.

iowabigguy · February 2001

I have the 4.7l 5 speed 3.55 and tire/handling. I am turning just a touch over 2000rpm at 60mph. I'm starting to maybe doubt if I have the 3.55 even though it is labled 3.55 if we are both getting the same rpms at 60mph. Can anyone with 3.55 5 speeds confirm their 60mph rpms. Thanks Rick

bookitty · February 2001

Rick, I have the same combination, and am turning a shade under 1800 on flat roadway in cruise. Perhaps the sender for the tachometer needs to be flashed and/or adjusted. I have the 4X4. Let us know what you find. What kind of mileage are you getting on average?

Bookitty

yellowjeeptj · February 2001

I placed my order today for my 2001 Dakota CC Sport with these options 4.7L Magnum® V8, Multispeed Automatic, Limited-Slip Rear Differential, Axle Ratio 3:92,Brakes 4-Wheel Antilock, Deluxe Convenience Group, Floor Mats Front, Heavy-Duty Service Group, Mirrors - Power Heated, Fold-Away up, Payload Rating 1,750, Power Overhead Convenience Group, AM/FM Cassette, Seat Six-Way Power, Skid Plate Group, Sport Plus Group, Steering Wheel Leather Wrapped, Trailer Tow Group, Window Rear Sliding ,Seats High-Back Bucket. It is going to be circus blue.... get it Intense. Dealer said it should be in, in about 5 weeks, I can't wait.

bookitty · February 2001

Aaron, the Dodge truck rebate has just escalted to $2000.00. If you are not a member of the Farm Bureau, join now and get a $500.00 discount coupon

along with the rebate. Click on this link to access the Farm Bureau, and go to states. PA cost for enrollment is $75.00 and one must be a member for 30 days prior to delivery. http://www.fb.com. Look under "Member Benefits."

Bookitty

iowabigguy · February 2001

Boo, yours is going to be different because with the 4x4 you have larger diameter tires. Rick

bookitty · February 2001

Rick, that is correct. I have the 31X10.5X15. Sorry for the confusion, but it's what I do best.

Regards,

Norm (Bookitty)

wetwillie · February 2001

I have the same config. as you do: 2wd, 5-sp., 3.55 axle, T&H pkg.(includes 255/65-15 tires) and I have the same speed/RPM results you do.

jmanan · February 2001

hey, i just bought a dakota 4x4 slt, with lots of options last saturday. the sticker was about 26,800, i ended up paying 23,500. now i find out the incentive has gone up from the $1000 rebate that i received to $2000. do i have any recourse? can i get my money back? is this a load of crap or did i still get a good deal?thanks for the help.

oh details about the truck, dark garnet red with silver two-tone, 4.7liter, 3.92 rear, slt plus decor, hd package, overhead console, limited slip, cd/cassette, body mouldings, auto, buckets, and other stuff i can't remember

iowabigguy · February 2001

Boo, We bought our trucks when there was no rebate, do you suppose its too late for us to ask for the $2000 current rebate. Maybe if we really complain they'll give us a new truck too! Rick

bookitty · February 2001

Rick, sorry for not mentioning to you that I applied for the $1000.00 rebate as well as the $2000.00 rebate. Of course both were granted, and the check for $3000.00 is in the mail. The new truck will be awarded posthumously, whatever that means. Also Rick, I have the opportunity for a great investment. A fellow I met owns a bridge that spans Brooklyn and Manhattan. He is having some financial problems and must sell this bridge at a great loss. I have half of the money needed, and must have someone come up with the other half. As a former New Yorker, I thought that you might have some interest.

Bookitty

tuvtest · February 2001

I'll take a piece of that. I want to diversify my portfolio. It'll be a good match to the seaside resort I have in Oklahoma.

bookitty · February 2001

Harold, I missed out on that one. My wife was concerned with the long walk to the beach while dragging along her beach chair, magazines, towel and tanning lotion. But, that's the last time that I will allow her to spoil and investment opportunity.

Bookitty

steve234 · February 2001

FYI Grand lake in Oklahoma has approximately 1800 miles of shoreline, reaches depths in excess of 150 ft and has several hundred yachts over 30 foot that are ocean crossing capable. It is also only the third largest lake in OK. Three lakes in OK are continuously connected to the Gulf of Mexico and patrolled by the Coast Guard. And if salt water is your bent, we do have salt water lakes. Actually, a shoreline home on Grand is a hot ticket. Many small homes start over $250,000. So tuvtest, your investment was a good one.

tuvtest · February 2001

to quote Homer Simpson...DOE!!!

dsvanned · February 2001

After looking and researching for years

I just placed my order for a 2001 Dakota Club Cab SLT with the following. V6 Engine, 5 Spd Manual, Limited Slip, 2000lb payload, HD Service Package, AM/FM with CD Player, Engine Block Heater, 60/40/60 bench seat. The dealer was stumped by my options list. I'm in Louisiana but I plan on my truck living (with me too) in Northern Vermont. Just a note the 1st price the salesman came back with was MORE than the MSRP on the Dodge WEB site. I laughed and then told them what I would pay before rebates. The Dealer accepted. I now get the truck, add on fees, and tax for LESS then the dealer first offered for the truck alone. I saved $3000

bpeebles · February 2001

(dsvanned) Good choice... I have been driving my 2000 Dakota in Vermont since October 1999. Your forsight to get the block heater is also commendable. (Do not forget to buy a heavy-duty timer (around $20) to turn on your block heater in the wee-hours of the morning.... leaving it "powered up" overnight will cost you $$ in electric bills and shorten the heater's life.) Personal experience with block heaters in Vermont on several vehicles over the years.

I too, have the 5SP manual tranny and it is flawless. Never a missed shift or slow response in -10F temps.

I do have one question about your choice of engine. Why the V6? This 1960's based engine gets LESS MPG than the 4.7L V8 Hemi and has been reported as being underpowered for the weight of the truck.

If you expect to be "living" with this truck for a long time... you should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi.

BTW... Trying to SELL a 2WD truck in Vermont is like selling screen doors to a submarine factory.

greg116 · February 2001

steve: it's spelled "D'OH!" actually. or is it "DO'H"? anyways...

I notice at the dealership some Daks have bigger rear drums than others. Which option group upgrades them like that? Or is that just standard on 4x4s?

greg116 · February 2001

The V6 comes with a lower MSRP too. Keep that in mind. It's also a long-proven (as the 318) design.

Also, "underpowered" is a relative term. My mother's 1990 Caravan 3.0L is gutless in my book, but just fine for her. BTW my favorite IS the 4.7.

bpeebles · February 2001

(greg116) When I bought my Dakota the actual cost of the 287ci V8 Hemi was $502. (+4% I offered to the dealer as his profit margin)

With some miles on your rig, the fuel savings alone make the 4.7L less expensive to own than the V6.

The 318ci may be a "proven" design as you say. It has been "proven" to be inneffecient and is "proven" to have some other problems too.

The 287ci passed YEARS of severe torture-testing before it was first offered in the 1999 JeepGrandCherokee. There have been an extremly small number of "problems" reported since it has been in produciton. It is going to be offered as an option in the new-design RAM for 2002.

BTW...Since you referred to the 318ci... I chose to refer to the 4.7L as the 287ci for comparison.

One should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi "proven" at this point.

THe AUTOMATIC xmission that is available with the 4.7L is problematic... and the suggested maintenance schedule for this transmission will make it quite expensive to maintian. (If one chooses to NOT follow the maintence schedule... it would likely self-distruct)

triple_deke1 · February 2001

Can anyone suggest a good bedmat and tailgate mat for 2001 Dak??

TD

2kdaklover · February 2001

2k,CC, 4.7L,355lsd, 4spd auto, stock tires (big) towing package, tonneau cover, mobil 1 syn oil, K&N air filter. Gas mileage avg 15 mpg combined 13-14 city. Drive fast usually, Having front brake probs, rotors warping easy, had rotors turned at 8k and replaced at 12 k. pads were ok, thinking of changing to softer pads?? I drive hard, but not THAT hard, anybody else having probs keeping rotors on front end? No other probs with truck..I love it..gas guzzler that it is! orlando_d12@yahoo.com please email.
Orlando

steve234 · February 2001

Personally, I have always spelled it DOAH, but the purest would probably spell it D'OH. You have to remember that Homer moved to the east coast eight years ago to be with his buddy and has probably developed a Boston twang.

dsvanned · February 2001

Before I begin I learned a lot from all the postings I read. Some I agreed with but others were not for me. Everything is a trade off so here is some of my reasoning.

For the next few years at least my Dakota will be my transportation here in Louisiana. I cannot see carrying the weight and warring the mechanicals of 4WD. Even in the northern winter (I'm from upstate NY) their are many days when you just need a bit more traction. So thats why I went for the Anti spin axle. For the 1/2 year that is not the mud or snow season I am very comfortable. During the mud and snow season anti spin can be a wonderful assistance though not as good as 4WD.

I choose the V6 though I thought about the 4.7 V8. For most of the time I will not be carrying heavy loads so don't need the power of the V8. I thought the 4.7 with all its technology was a bit too new for my comfort. And the I4 is certainly underpowered. So for those reasons I choose the V6.

bpeebles · February 2001

Dave, All sound decesions... A long as you have consider the options it they are the right decisions for you

Is your present Eagle an AMC Eagle or the spin-off Eagle brand vehicle? My second 4x4 was an AMC Eagle. The galvanized body is the ONLY car I have owned that never rusted through 10 Vermont winters.... Too bad the frame was crumbling at that point. The same inline 6 engine is STILL used in Jeep vehicles... NOW THAT IS A PROVEN ENGINE!!

bpeebles · February 2001

(2kdaklover) If there is an area on the Dakota that has marginal materials used it would be the front rotors. I am not saying that they are unsave in any way... Just that the OEM metal tends to RUST ver fast and is susceptable to warpage when used heavally. Turing the rotors is a temporary band-aid that makes the rotors even more suseptable to warping.

I will be DEFINATLY replacing my front rotors with high-quality units when they become unusable.
Here is a suggestion.
SSBrakes

greg116 · February 2001

All good points, but the MSRP IS still cheaper. And I have yet to see proven evidence that the V6 gets worse mileage than the V8. And yes, I understand the concept of gearing, how the V6 must rev higher at a given speed etc etc... The EPA seems to like the V6 for gas on all the stickers I've seen on lot vehicles. Of course their testing is outdated too. Besides, if gas mileage was better, why WOULD anyone buy the V6? Despite that, V6s on 1997-2001 Dakotas have sold more than V8s.

Does ANYONE buy a Dakota with a 4 cyl anymore? I havent seen anyone on these message boards that has one. I would imagine they sell very few of them. Almost every Dak i've seen on the road has the V6 or V8 badge. I think the only one was the delivery truck for Crowfoot Dodge in Calgary AB, a base-model regular-cab that probably didnt even have A/C (understandably).

If someone does have one, please speak up! How is it?

steve234 · February 2001

I don't know that they sell more V6s than V8s, but if so, than it is probably because of fleet sales. We have one or two dozen Dakotas in my organization and they are probably all V6s. When going over the options, the motor pool manager said that if I was going to do much towing, he would get me a full size Ram with V8. The Dakota is ideal for work trucks that do not have a heavy load requirement. I have no problems with the V6 as a utilitarian vehile, but for my personal ride, I like a little oomph.

harleyart · February 2001

Picked up my new Club Cab on Saturday, 4.7, auto, tow package, tire & handling and more but I have my first complaint. Tried to order fender flares but they not avaible in silver as an accessary. Can be ordered as replacement parts but will cost $200.00 more. Can be ordered in every color but silver. Has anyone else had this problem and if so has the paint matched after painting? Thanks for all the information I have received here.

bpeebles · February 2001

( greg116) The last time I looked, the stickers on the windows (EPA stickers) did show the V6 as getting less MPG than the 4.7L V8 Hemi. (option packages being identical)

Additinoally, the 1960's based V6 has horrendous emmissions... again as noted on the EPA stickers in the windows.

Lets look at some numbers;

assumptions; (your numbers may vary)
V6 = 16MPG
4.7L V8 Hemi = 18 MPG
20,000 miles driven per year
cost of fuel = $1.45 / Gallon

20,000 / 18 = 1111 <== annual gallons to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
20,000 / 16 = 1250 <== annual gallons to run the V6

1111 * $1.45 = $1610.95 <== annual fuel cost to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
1250 * $1.45 = $1812.50 <== annual fuel cost to run the V6

$1812.50 - $1610.95 = <B>$201.55
Gee.... since my 4.7L V8 Hemi cost me $502 + 4% (522.08), after about 3 years I will be saving money. (based on if I had that 1960's based V6)

Now you tell me why ANYONE would want that ol' V6 in their personal vehicle?

wetwillie · February 2001

The actual EPA estimates for the Dakota Clubcab shows better city and highway mileage for the V-6 in every configuration, that is: 4WD, 2WD, 5-sp. or Auto.

kwanderi · February 2001

I had a 97 Dakota with the 3.9 and auto and currently have a 00 Dakota with the 4.7 and auto. I can tell you without any doubt that the 4.7 DOES get better mileage than the 3.9 by about 2 MPG in my case. I got the 97 new with the V6 to "save gas", right. The V6 was adequate at best, but each to their own.

After having owned both, there is not a single doubt in my mind that the 4.7 is the only choice for the informed buyer.

Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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