Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

hairydog · July 2001

Five days later on my third try to fix the flooding I finally got my vechicle back. I see by the invoice my Dak was sent to a sublet for glass/repair.
Invoice states AC system leaks. Replaced evaporator coil evac and recharge system co.
Parts: Housing E., Housing H., Evaporator, seal kit,carpet floor,seal front,adhesive and seal package.
Tommorow it will be 90 degrees and a forecast of severe thunderstorms. You can bet I will have the air cranked up and I will drive through the storms with my eyes on the carpet.
Thanks for the help. We appreciate it.

hairydog · July 2001

Happy to report the leaking has stopped.

I have driven through some wicked storms with my A/C cranked up and haven't had a drop of water in the cab.

What I have noticed that is different, I can visually see water puddling on my driveway once it is parked. Obviously it is coming from the A/C.

Prior to being repaired I observed only a few drops from the A/C on the driveway.

Thanks folks for your assistance. It was greatly appreciated.

mopar67 · July 2001

in hip waders to drive your rig.
Sounds like the boys on the assembly line kinda got in a hurry the day they built yours.
Best of luck in the future on AC performance

pyreardon · July 2001

Howdy all!

Well for the last month or so I have been reading the reviews, checking out the plusses and minuses, checking on costs and now I have gone and done it. Yesterday I drove the 2 hours (110 miles) to purchase my 2001 Dakota Club Cab, 4.7 V8, Auto, SLT +, red and silver. Of course no one for 80 miles around my area had the CC V8 SLT+ so I had to drive.
I did an internet sale/purchase and picked up the Dakota for $18,117 after rebate + TT&L, absolutely no additional charges. They got invoice plus $150 or so and their "advertizing" bump. I guess I could have fought a bit more but overall I think it was generally fair - perhaps I am wrong??--hope not!

Anyway, all the way home I looked at the floor to check for water leaks, check and recheck my engine light, felt for problems with auto - slamming from 2nd to 3rd......sheesh reading everyones negative comments got me paranoid....hahaha!

But no problems. I'm sure the truck will be alright and without problems. I have a grin on my face and think I will end this and go out for a spin

Nice to join the group!

bookitty · July 2001

Dean, congratulations and good luck with your new truck. You will love it. Check out all of the Dodge Dakota owners pages and the Dodge Dakota Quad Cab as well There is always information exchanged that is apropos for all of the Dodge Dakotas as well as a good deal of general stuff that applies to any/all vehicles. Welcome to the club.

Bookitty

gjble · July 2001

I thought my leak had returned.The carpet was wet but the floor mat was not. The dealer checked for leaks but there wasn't one. Turns out the pad under the carpet is enclosed with plastic and was saturated with the water from the previous real leak and when a passenger stepped on the floor water would be squeezed out onto the carpet I am getting all new carpet and pads when they come in. I asked for a new truck but the service department said they wern't theirs to give away..I toought I'd try.

In Atlanta

kruzer · July 2001

Congrats on the purchase. I'm the one with the never ending Engine Light. Any new vehicle can have a Gremlin to work out. The dealer claimed that their improper work caused both the return trips after the first fix. I LOVE my truck. Even with the hassles I had. I would Definitely do it again.

Hope you enjoy your CC!

Travis

pyreardon · July 2001

Thanks everyone for the congrats on my new truck. Now if I could only sell my car..haha

When I bought the truck I didn't trade in my car at the dealership. So Friday night I drove my truck happily home. On Sat., my sales associate and another driver drove my car back to me (110 mi) at no charge!

Now I need to look for a decent bedliner. I've heard that Duraliner is the way to go. Not sure I want a spay in liner as it can never be removed and can chip. I'll have to call around and see who sells the Duraliner.

namfflow · July 2001

Some of you have experienced a rattling noise in the front end of your Dakotas without a resolution. Well, I had to take my 01 Dakota in to the dealer because the inner fender well was coming out. It turns out it is a part that just snaps in place. Once it was snapped back into place I noticed that when going over speed bumps and the like there was more noise in the front. Apparently there is a slight amount of movement in the inner fender well and this is making the noise. So for me at least it isn't something to worry about.

It may be the case for some of you. You can probably check it by playing around with it.

kruzer · July 2001

I put in the Rhino Liner. I love it. I actually wanted a "softer" liner as I am more likely to move furniture and such for my better half than rocks, nails, etc... The Rhino seemed less abrasive than Line-x, or Speedliner (no experience with Duraliner). It also has a lifetime warranty....(see below) YMMV.

I would think that most any "name brand liner" would work well. The biggest variable is the installer. There are a lot of horror stories from putting in Brand-X with an installer that doesn't know what they are doing. Also, will the installer cover repairs/warranty work? Get references!

Travis

geeshell · August 2001

geeshell · August 2001

I just got my fathers 95 dakota, and i noticed that the truck has a 6 lug pattern. Does anyone know how to convert the existing pattern to a 5 lug type as i have some great rims i would like to use. Thanks for any advice.

tuvtest · August 2001

Unfortunatly, there is no easy way. You could check some of the racing manufacturers (Wildwood, Moser Axle,ect.) for custom rotors in front and axles in back. I don't think there is enough "meat" in the componants to safely redrill for a 5 lug patten.
When the Dak first came out, it had a std. Mopar 5 on 4.5 pattern, but I don't belive the spindles and axles are the same as your 95. My suggestion is to sell the set you have and get a new set.Sorry for the bad news

namfflow · August 2001

There are adapters available. Check out Trucin' Mag and Sport Truck.

They will increase the wheel offset so you need to check that.

Personally I wouldn't use the spacers. I would rather replace the wheels.

blackdakota318 · September 2001

I have a question I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with. I have a 98 Dakota club cab 4x4 318 auto that I bought used about a year and a half ago with 36,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles. My question is ever since I bought it, it has had a noise that I am positive is coming from the engine. It is a clicking sound that is most noticeable when the transmission is in third gear and you are going up a hill or just have a load on the engine. Just cruising you can't hear it. And when the engine is turning high rpm's (in any gear) you can't hear it, but that might just be because the engine is louder at higher rpm's. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse since I've had it, and there is no loss in power, performance, or mileage. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.

wetwillie · September 2001

The noise you here under the conditions you describe sounds like pre-ignition or 'pinging'. A simple test could verify it - just fill up with high octane gas (90 or higher) and if the noise disappears as you drive it (give it at least a hundred miles or so on the high octane), that's the problem. There are several TSB's addressing this very problem. One, I believe, that includes your vintage('98)is to re-route the spark plug wires. Another is to 'flash' the computer - but this should be the last resort, as it retards the timing and thus, your performance.

bobs5 · September 2001

check out the new "EVENTS" discussion.
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am

fourgivn1 · December 2001

Question concerning the V6. BEFORE I get booed out of the virtual room, hear me out. :-) I personally am upgrading to the Dakota because for the money and the bracket it is in, the Dakota (according to my research) is the best truck for the money. I made the mistake of getting a '00 Chevy S-10 4-banger, and have prostrated myself before God asking for forgiveness. I'm getting ready to purchase the 2002 Dakota SXT with the 3.9L, with a Tire/Handling package. The main reason I am choosing the 3.9 cyl over the 4.7 cyl is because while I have read the posts concerning the whole MPG issue, it's my belief that driving to the nearest aftermarket parts store and buying a K&N kit will increase the HP by about 25, and increase the MPG to about the same levels as the V8. (At least, all the posts I have seen concerning those who have bought a 3.9L and the K&N kit say as much.) I plan on doing little to no towing, and the main reason I want the 6-cylinder is for ease in passing/speeding up in traffic. Considering this fact, I'm thinking that getting a V8 is not necessary (although it would definitely satisfy the Tim Allen in me). I'd like to hear from anyone who can comment on this.

ron35 · December 2001

fourgivn1- If I were you I would do some serious reconsideration on your choice of a V-6. I know several people who have the 3.9 V-6 and have had maintenance issues. I have the 4.7 with a 5 speed and this is an excellent combination; I have compared mileage with my friends with the 3.9 and I am doing better than they are. The 3.9 has already been replaced in the Ram lineup with a new 3.7 V-6 which is a derivative of the 4.7. The 3.7 gets 212 HP while the 3.9 gets 175 HP and the 3.7 gets 2-3 MPG more on the gas mileage. The 3.7 is currently in the Ram and the Jeep, if there were enough of these engines available they would have already been in the Dakota as they will definitely replace the 3.9. Why invest in older technology and please take that 25 HP increase from the K&N with a grain of salt it is more realistically 10-15 HP at the most.

Ron35

fourgivn1 · December 2001

Well, obviously w/o even reading your post, I was beginning to think that going the way of the V8 was the wise thing to do, and it really doesn't even have anything to do with power at all (other than the fact that in the future I would, of course, like to know that the truck I have can handle towing/hauling). But since posting this I've gotten a load of responses from Dakota owners saying exactly the same thing. Being as I am getting a spectacular deal on the truck I am buying (about $200 under invoice on any truck I want) I will probably opt for the V8. Thanks!

bookitty · December 2001

Matt, smart move. Enough said.

Bookitty

ragemage76 · December 2001

Hopefully someone can help a little. I have a '97 dakota with the 3.9 V6. It started stalling at lights and stop signs not even a week ago.It keept stalling and now will not start at all. New battery, cap, and rotor. Fuel pressure is fine, it's getting spark, no trouble codes displayed besides 12 which is battery has been disconnected. Shift indicator light now flashes when trying to start it. Manual tranny. My guess is the wiring harness. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this happening? I thought it might have been water in the gas, but that isn't the problem either. I'm out of ideas and would greatly appreciate anyone's help on this.

mopar67 · January 2002

http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b061901.htm

mad42 · March 2002

'02, 1200 miles, 3 months old. Hate it. Steering is stiff around center, very light elsewhere. Causes oversteer around corners. Engine falls flat at 2300 RPM then takes off causing lurching. If turning a corner from a stop this occurs in the middle of the turn and makes the steering worse from excessive body roll. Lots of backlash in the drivetrain. Trans replaced at 230 miles because factory didn't fill gearbox with oil. Engine RPM takes a long time to drop on shifts - clutch, wait 3 seconds, shift. Otherwise the sycros sometimes grind. Dealer rammed it into first at 25 MPH to prove it could be done. Can't maintain freeway speed on a slight grade empty unlike my 17 year old 2.6L Mitsu with a motorcycle in back.
If if had a decent drivetrain (like the Mitsu 3.0L V6 or something within the last decade) and real shocks it would be alright. As is it is a piece of crap. Dealer says all problems are "as designed".

ford_bii · March 2002

I agree with your sentiments about the drivetrain, it is very loose and clunky. This thing is hard as hell to downshift without bucking the crap out of it. Lots of clangs and clunks unless you shift it PERFECT, OR, you rev it up way beyond the recommended shift points.

What gear/mph are you at when you are unable to maintain speed on a slight grade? 5th gear is overdrive, and if you think it's bad unloaded, try it with 4 people and a bed full of gear. If you ask me the shift points that dodge gives you in the manual (15, 25, 40, 45) are too low for the 4.7L engine. Problem is, if you rev it up a little your gas mileage will drop like a rock.

The truck is quite fun to drive if you rev it up a little.

If you look at the HP/torque graphs for the 3.9L v6 vs the 4.7L v8, the v6 is actually puts out more HP in the 1000-3000 rpm range than the v8. The v8 puts out more torque than the v6, but I hate how you have to rev the crap out a vehicle to get any power out of it.

So when you put your shiny new V8 in overdrive and try to do 60 mph, you're running with less power than a v6. More torque, but which one matters more? If I'm not pulling a load, then HP would be more desireable, right?

I don't have any steering problems.

Good luck.

bluebayou · April 2002

ford_bii

I believe that your statement is incorrect in regards to the 3.9 having more horsepower but less torque than the 4.7 between 1 - 3k rpms.

Horsepower is a factor of torque! if rpms are equal, then you cannot have less torque and yet more horsepower at the same time! Tell me if I am wrong, but I'm pretty sure that it is impossible.

Not to belittle any 3.9 owners, but I would put my 4.7 against any 3.9 any day of the week. Assuming they are both stock.

Blue

ford_bii · April 2002

I don't think that there is a strict relationship between HP and Torque. Otherwise, how can you explain diesel engines having 300 hp and 500 lb-ft of torque??

Anyways, I don't care. I derived the above post simply by looking at graphs printed in the brochure. Don't take my word for it.

My major gripe with today's engines is that all the power comes in the high rpms, where I generally don't drive my vehicles. I don't like the way that SOHC engines have the power up high, rather than down low like the older pushrod(?) designs.

I recently drove my ffil's (future-father-in-law's) new Corvette Z06. Unbelieveable how the 5.7L Pushrod v-8 has so much power down low. I also noticed a big difference in my Uncle's 5.3L vortech Silverado. No need to tach up either engines to feel the power.

Can somebody tell me why the Dakota's 5-speed is so damn clunky? geez

steve234 · May 2002

There is a relationship, but not direct. HP is an expression of the ft-lbs of energy in relationship to a time factor(ft-lbs/sec). Torque is the ft-lbs of energy over a pivot length. If you apply 3 ft-lbs of force at the end of a 3 ft fulcrum, you would have 9 ft2-lbs of torque. Simplistic version, but explains why you can have a slow cycling engine put out a small amount of HP and a tremendous amount of torque. The actual measurement is more complicated.

I drive both the V6 and 4.7 V8 and I can tell you that the V8 wins hands down in all catagories. The probable reason that many engines are hitting their power points higher is that it makes for a better fuel economy in testing. The asian makes are big on 4k+ power peaks. The only major difference in valving is that an overhead cam is able to hit higher rpms without the valve float that a pushrod engine is vulnerable to.

ford_bii · May 2002

I had heard the same thing: that OHC engines got better fuel economy. I don't believe it though. The two Chevy engines I talked about above (5.7L and 5.3L) both get better gas mileage than any other comparable sized V-8 out there. My uncle's full size Silverado with the 5.3L gets between 16 and 20 MPG. I took a trip with him a few weeks ago. We were loaded, and he towed a utility trailer. After 150 miles doing 70+ on the highway, with some country roads mixed in, and he got almost 16 MPG. He even had the tow mode on (automatic tranny). Around town driving he gets 16-17. All these numbers beat my smaller/lighter Dakota.

Now figure that one out.

sagemo · May 2002

I have a 2001 Dakota club cab, 3.9 V6. with 20K miles. There has recently started an annoying whining noise coming from the fuel pump. Most noticeable with rear slider open and at idle. Dealer replaced fuel pump module and noise returned within a week. Now dealer says fuel pump noise is not excessive and is common for this truck. Is anyone experiencing this problem.

ford_bii · May 2002

Normal? I dunno. Mines does it, and has been doing it for over 13,000 miles.

saskquad · May 2002

The formula for horsepower is hp = ( torque x rpm )/5252 .This is what we use on a dynamometer to calculate HP. Due to this direct relationship between torqe and horsepower you can make an engine appear very impressive (hp) by raising the rpm you rate it at , until it runs out of breath.
Chevy fuel injected engines have always seemed to be better on fuel even in their throttle body injection days, they sure beat Fords attempt at fuel injection in the late 80's .

draymond2 · June 2002

Any new info out there?

gumby5 · July 2002

I am thinking on getting a club cab automatic and just heard that there is a problem with transmisson is this right?

bpeebles · July 2002

(gumby5) Please be more specific.... which automatic transmission? There are at least 2 available based on your engine choice.
What "problem" did you hear about?

ready10 · August 2002

-I keep reading about an AC line modification to make it cooler in the cabin. What is it? How do you do it? What's the cost?
-Does anyone have any suggestions about fuel octane level in the 4.7? Manual says 87, but I've read about folks getting better highway mileage with 89/93. Not sure what to do on this.
-I drive a 2001 SLT Club Cab, 4.7L, auto trns. Have had it for just over a year with no problems except the ash tray (pops open every time I close a door or hit a bump). Installed an Airaid intake and noticed a 2 MPG improvment in city driving (11 to 13 MPG). Altitude plays a big part, as I'm stationed in Colorado.
-Thanks in advance for any replys/suggestions!

bri151 · August 2002

Just purchased a 2001 SLT Plus ext. cab, auto, 2wd w/ 4.7 V8, tire/wheel, and tow package. Truck had 5,300 miles. Took a 3,200 mile trip w/ my wife and kid from Illinois to the mountains of western Montana, with a 400 lb. 4-wheeler in the bed along with 200 lbs of luggage, tools, and golf clubs. Was concerned about mileage and power in the mountains. Averaged 78-85 mph for the trip (with an occasional up-hill pass around semi's where speeds would be in the low to mid 90's). Unbelievable power and the trip computer showed an average of 19.3 mpg when we arrived. Left the four wheeler out west for relatives, and with the tonneau cover buttoned on for the trip back home, averaged 22.1 mpg. Love the truck!. Very comfortable for the adults. Kid was a bit cramped in back, but could stretch out comfortably to sleep on the bench. Only complaint is that if I only run the a/c for a real short period of time, it will tend to build up an odor in the system over a week or so. This is usually remedied by a day or two of running the fan on high speed (no a/c, just vent). Not sure what causes this. I did test drive the V-6, but couldn't imagine why anyone would want it. My old 95 S-10 4 cyl, 5 sp. wasn't too far off the 3.9 auto. The 4.7 is one tough engine...can't wait to see the new 5.7.

bcarter3 · October 2002

Took delivery of my '01 CC on Oct 4, 2000. One transmission sensor leak and two water leaks in the cab on the passenger side have been the only problems so far. The 4.7 with auto has been a good combination for driving and fuel economy. Here in south Florida there aren't any hills to drive up and down so the brakes have had very little stress and I haven't had any rotor warpage. I only have 12,664 mile accumulated as I am still using my '89 Mitsubishi P/U to absorb most of the 60 mile work days. With 208,000 miles I expect that it will give up soon. The engine has never been opened. I plan to keep my Dak at least as long. The only accessories so far are a bed liner, Roll-N-Lock cover and factory flares. I am considering lowering it a couple of inches. My wife has some difficulty getting in and I am unable to clean the whole windshield without a stool. To do it properly will probably set me back $700-$800. I think it would look better too.
I don't post often but I am here every day and am interested in what everyone has offered in advise and problem solving. I started reading these posts in 1999, before the first Quad Cab was delivered, when the major discussions were options, build dates, deliveries and how to track the train shipments. A lot of owners posted invoice prices and when I went to order my truck the dealer didn't understand how I knew so much about it. Would I buy another Dakota? Yes, if it was Quad!!! :->
Dick

dustyk · December 2002

....new on October 9, 2002. Has the 4.7 (287) engine, 545RFE transmission, 3.55 LSD, 6010 GVW package with front & rear sway bars.

At 4370 miles, so far so good. As delivered all equipment works perfectly, no apparent assembly or quality defects to be found. Better assembly quality than our '99 toyota Avalon.

The ride is surprisingly good and it handles extremely well. Very comfortable seating and very good ergonomics. Lots of power! The transmission and engine combination make this the smoothest I've ever driven, save for a '02 RAM. Very quiet except for tire noise. Did I mention that this truck has lots of power?

The EPA rating is 15 city, 20 highway. My best recorded was 21.87 interstate at steady 65 mph. Worst was 13.98 during 138 miles of stop & go driving with 650 ATV in the bed and sub zero temperatures (hunting season). Normal weekly gas mileage is 16.5. My to-date average is 17.4 for all driving. Better gas mileage than my daughter gets with her Explorer and friends with their S10 Blazers.

I drove them all before I bought. Although I would have preferred to buy a Nissan truck, this Dakota has not disappointed me. In fact, it's surprised me. I think the Dakota is the premier mid-size truck. I hope the reliability keeps pace with all of it's other fine attributes.

Dusty

dustyk · January 2003

I have an early built 2003 Club Cab Sport Plus, 4.7 engine (purchased 9 October 2002) that came equiped with the Chrysler 9 1/4 3:55 LSD. According to the information currently on the Dodge website, the standard axle for the Sport Plus is now the 8 3/4 axle in 3:21 ratio. The website option selections only list a 3:92 ratio. The 3:55 has apparently been dropped.

Dusty

bpeebles · January 2003

If this info is correct the "Sport Plus" should be renammed to the Sport Minus ;-)

A 3.21 axle ratio would REALLY clobber the accelleration performance. (but improve the MPG)

There are several folks that think the 3.55 is too steep of a ratio and went with the 3.92.... but a 3.21 is like a constant overdrive.

I wonder if the xmission ratios have been changed to accomodate the 3.21?

(dustyk) is this for the 2WD or 4WD? (or both?)

dataguru · January 2003

Dusty,
what is the primary significance of the size differences between the axles (9.25" vs 8.25")? Is the larger 9.25" axle a more heavy duty version? Are there other advantages/disadvantages of either?

For us in Canada, DaimlerChrysler Canada offers the 8.25" Corporate axle with 3.55s as "standard equipment". (both 2WD/4WD) However, 3.21s and 3.92s can be ordered as a customer preference option.

Bill

bookitty · January 2003

Bill, Bruce, prior to this, the 3:21 was not available with, 4WD or the V8 or the 4 cylinder. The 3:21 was standard with the 3.9L and manual 5 speed offering a 7,500# GCWR. When I ordered my 1995 Club Cab with 318, 4WD and 5 speed, it was not available with that set-up. I only considered it because I was traveling long distances on a daily basis on limited access highways. It would have been however, a foolish mistake, as towing would have eaten it alive.

Bookitty

dustyk · January 2003

First, I mis-typed the 3.21 axle. It is a 8 1/4, not a 8 3/4.

The difference between the 8 1/4 and 9 1/4 axles is the ring gear outer diameter is one inch larger, but other internal components are also beefier. Physically, the differential housing is larger and I think the axle shafts are larger in diameter since (to my eye) the axle tubes look bigger.

I didn't check on axle availability with a 4x4 Dakota, so I don't know. If you go into the Dodge website and select "Build", as you step through the webpages you'll get to the options page and should be able to find out there.

My 4.7 with the 3.55 gearset runs so darn well that I'm sure a 3.21 axle ratio would be fine for most of my towing requirements. But, you're right it would slow the vehicle down, too. The problem is I'm not so sure if I would realize much of a MPG gain in my weekly driving since I'm only two miles from my office. In some situations having a slightly higher numerical ratio wouldn't be noticed and I think this might be it.

With the 3.55 in mine towing my 650 pound ATV around is a piece of cake. Yes, I feel the extra weight, but street performance is still more than adequate. And I move up hills like it was nothing.

A good New Year to all.

Best regards,
Dusty

mrljb · January 2003

I plan on purchasing a 03 SLT PLus Club Dakota with the 4.7 V8. I will not be doing any towing. What Axle ratio is best for performance and fuel economy?
Thank you
Lenny

mrljb · January 2003

bpeebles · January 2003

Sorry when chosing a rear-end axle ratio, PERFORMANCE and MPG are mutually exclusive.

LOWER ratio number makes for better MPG but worse accelleration and towing abilities.

HIGHER ratio makes better accelleration and towing abilities but worse MPG.

You have to choose what is best for you.

dustyk · January 2003

It looks like Dodge has revised their Dakota Club Cab Sport Plus spec's again. A couple of weeks ago they apparently changed the standard axle from a 9 1/4 x 3.55 to a 8 1/4 x 3.21. They also only listed the 3.21 and 3.91 ratios. They now are again listing the 3.55 as available.

Dusty

ready10 · January 2003

Drive a 2001 SLT CC with 4.7L. Not looking to build a "street racer", just want a little more "OOMPH!" Already added a cold air intake from Airaid, planning to install their throttle body spacer as well. I've been told about headers and exhaust systems. Any suggestions as to make/type??? What about "controller chips" that boost horsepower and torque??

bpeebles · January 2003

(ready10) With all due respect... just a friendly reminder...

Your questions have been answered in another forum. It is considerd rude to post the exact-same message on multiple forums. Most of us have ALL of the Dakota forums in our "message center" and prefer not to keep reading the same stuff over and over.

Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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