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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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Comments

  • pcalandropcalandro Posts: 1
    Just purchase a 1999 dakota from a dealer. truck has 26,000 miles. did a car fax on it and came up clean . After about an hour after picking it up from dealer. I went into reverse and heard a ping/clank. went into park did it again and it happened again. It only happens when I go into reverse. could it be the universal linkage or maybe the rear end gear box? any suggestions before I bring it back to the dealer? :confuse: thanks for your help
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You may be correct, the U-joints are the likely culprit. My 2000 Dak got new rear U-jount under warantee,,,so it is not unusual.
  • gunmetalgunmetal Posts: 1
    there is just the glass on e-bay under dodge dakota !
    marty b
  • edog11edog11 Posts: 12
    I just purchased a Dakota 2001 last weekend and I didn't hear the clank until I got home a hour later. At least I have a 3 month/3000 mi warranty. I'll definitely take it back to have the problem resovled. But, with my luck they will probably tell me the U-joints aren't covered. Other than the clanks I love the vehicle.
  • I own a 2001 Dakota 3.9L v6, it has power to it and all, but i want to increase it, i orignally wanted a R/T cause of the 5.9L but insurance was gonna be too high, so i ended up geting a v6 dakota. i was wondering what would be the best thing i could do to increase the horsepower and etc.
  • I'm thinking about getting a new Club Cab (2005) V6, manual transmission. Does anyone want to sway my opinion one way or the other? I hope the smaller engine will help the gas mileage issue described elsewhere in this forum. How are they for home maintenance? e.g., are the oil filter and plugs easily accessible? Any other thoughts?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    It sounds like you have a 4.7 now?

    despite what many experience, I've found that if you drive it right a 4.7 will give you almost as good a gas mileage as the V6. The new 3.7 is a more efficient engine than the 3.9 it replaced. I have talked to only one person with the new V6 in a 2004 and he was getting about 17.5 MPG average. I can do that with my 2003 4.7 if I'm patient and slow down. I do believe that around town you'll probably do a little better with the 3.7.

    The 3.7 is nothing more than a 4.7 with two cylinders removed. The block architecture is the same, so plugs and filters would be in the same position, except you'll have a little more room to work on the engine.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Posts: 31
    Dusty,

    On the '05 (don't know about the '04, personally) 3.7, everything is more accessible than it was on my '01 3.9 engine. The '01 3.9 was a manual, while the '05 3.7 is an automatic. I experience about the same fuel mileage of the two.

    With the '05, I have gotten as good as 22.9 on the hiway (not driving conservative speeds), and average around 14.5 in town.

    With the '01, I got about the same in town, while on one journey to Tucson (1,100 miles in a little less than 19 hours), I averaged about 23.5.

    Of course, these are Quad Cab mileages, so the Club might do a bit better.
  • matt007matt007 Posts: 1
    i own a 2001 dakota club cab 4x4 V-6. are the calipers and front rotors problematic over the life of the truck. :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    On pre-2003s there was a lot of complaints about short rotor life. Personally I know some that went a long distance and some that didn't and it's hard to tell if it was driver use related or rotor quality related.

    After 2002 the Dakota got different front brakes and presumable better rotors. I just had mine replaced at 47K, and they were not warped. The factory pads seem to wear the best and still produce reasonable rotor life. Some "long life" pads will last longer at the expense of faster rotor wear.

    Most people tell me that on pre-2003s that aftermarket rotors will last longer. Well, in some cases. There's been complaints about aftermarket rotors, too. Cheapo aftermarkets are no better than factory and could even be worse. Then again repair techs are telling me the newer factory rotors are much better for pre-2003s.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • I own a 1998 Dakota Club Cab w/ a 318 under the hood. So far I have put dual straight pipes on the back from the cat and a K&N FIPK Intake. I am interested in all of these Hypertech Dodge Dakota Power Programmer III and the JET Dodge Dakota Performance Chips Power Control Module (PCM). Has anyone applied one of these to their Dakota?? Which is the best, or if you have any suggestions for incresing HP/TQ/MPG, please throw them my way.
  • dsatlledsatlle Posts: 2
    What moron engineer decided that the front passenger seat should not fully recline? The seat will only recline to about a 45 degree angle. Ever try sleeping on a long road trip at that angle? I have a 2004 Club Cab and sure enough that is the one item I failed to check. I traded in an old 1996 SLT Dakota with great, full-recline seats and fully expected the 2004 to be designed the same. But heck no! Some guy decided to change it, WHY? Any suggestions out there other than asking my wife to take her naps in the bed of the truck?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is not safe to be in a reclined position when vehicle is in motion. Try sleeping in the bed or on the hood 8-)

    I have gone on many, MANY roadtrips that last well over 18 hours.... no one has ever needed to recline a seat to sleep. Youd Dak is no worse than an airplane. Many folks find a way to sleep without reclining.

    To please your wife (which is what it is all about anyway) I guess you could look into installing seat from older Dak.

    I know that a Futon -matress fits perfectly in the bed of my Dak. With the cap on my Dak., it is a GREAT way to go camping.
  • dsatlledsatlle Posts: 2
    I see your point if the seat reclined to 180 degrees but this is not the case. If the seat went back to a full 45 degree angle I'd be amazed and happy. :)
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    I didn't realize this until about a month after I had my 04 Quad. Doesn't make sense to me either. If it's unsafe to have seats that can fully recline in a vehicle, why do so many other cars have them?
  • hi, guys,
    I recently had the dealer install the mopar bedliner in my 2005 dakota (I got them to throw it in with the deal, but had to wait for it to come in). Where the rubber plugs are, there are round covers over them in the liner. Where the rear tie downs are, on either side of the tailgate, there are no covers, just sort of rectangular openings exposing the tie downs. Is this the way it's suppose to be or did the installer forget to put on the covers? I emailed dodge to ask them and they emailed me back (get this) that they didn't have a clear picture of a bedliner to answer my question and i should check with the dealer.
    thanks.
    Vinny
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yep. That's the way they are on my '03 Mopar bedliner.

    Dusty
  • bgpmpnbgpmpn Posts: 1
    Anyone having problems w/ their 4x4 systems on their truck?

    Is Dodge known to have problems with their systems?

    I just bought an 03 x-cab 4x4 2 months ago. Today while I was driving to work, the "service 4wd" light came on. Never used the 4x4 yet.

    Could it be a vacuum problem?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you owned GM products in the past? They use vacuum on some models with 4x4 (S-10s especially). Dodge is electronic transfer case control.

    Because of the year I'd recommend checking the electrical connections at the transfer case for corrosion. If it is, clean up the contacts and the rubber connector cover and pack the heck out of it with wheel bearing grease. Then reseat the connector.

    The "Service 4x4" lamp is illuminated anytime the Transfer Case Control Module defects a fault. There are electric motors internally that do the shifting. these could be bound. But if you haven't even used the 4x4 position yet, I'd bet on the connector or a defective control module.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • I own a 2003 club cab dakota and my blower will only work on high.I think the resistor block went bad does any one have a clue were I would find it? and is it hard to replace?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Behind the glovebox.
  • Thank you very much for your all your help
  • Dusty - I had the front rotors/pads replaced on my 2001 4x4 Quad cab 10k miles ago (Wagner OEM rotors, Bendix pads). The left is becoming quite scored on both the inner and outer surfaces. The right side rotor is smooth both inside and out, the pads are equally worn with approx 8/32 remaining. Could this be an sticking caliper? I've heard of premature LF rotor wear on other DC vehicles, is this common?
    Also, there's a noticeable whine developing in the front left that starts at approx 5 mph and increases with road speed. I thought this may be a tire problem; putting the spare on made no difference BUT the sound disappears completely when turning right. CV joint? Could this in any way be related to the rotor issue?

    TIA for any suggestions.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The propensity for a sticking left caliper on any DC vehicle is not a common problem. However, you could most certainly have a sticking caliper on the left side.

    If inspection and testing proves the caliper is otherwise okay, the problem could be the rubber brake line from the frame to the caliper. After long exposure to brake fluid they can swell on the inside causing the reverse flow (releasing) to be blocked and the caliper to be partially pressurized. This cause the pads to drag or be partially applied and this is the usual cause of scoring.

    If you find the brake line to fix the problem on the left, I'd recommend replacing the other side, too.

    Regarding the noise, I don't know. My first recommendation is to check the the tires, rotate, and then check front end alignment. You could have a shifted cord in one of the tires. I've never heard a CV joint "whine," but there's always a first time for any thing.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you checked to see if the caliper is sticking? It is a simple test.

    Drive the vehicle (preferably at highwayspeeds) and WITHOUT USING THE BRAKES go into a rest-area and come to a stop. (I use emergancy-brake pedal to do this)

    Then, gingerly feel the lugnuts for heat. Both sides should feel equally the same (perhaps warm to the touch)
    If one side is noticabbly warmer than the other, suspect sticking caliper.

    ANOTHER POSSIBILITY: Even if a caliper does not "stick", the brake-pads can bind on the sliders. If the mechanic that replaced your pads did not file off the burrs and apply brake-grease to this area, I would put MONEY on that being your problem.

    BTW: I have replaced BOTH of the calipers on my 2000 Dak. They both started to stick within 3 months of each other.
  • I HAVE A 99 AND I HAD TO CHANGE OUT ROTORS AND CALIPERS ON MINE AT 40K I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. IT HAS 107K NOW AND STILL DOING WELL.
  • I have a 2005 C.C. would like to remove rear jump seats??...how big a problem?? Where do I find how to do it...????....Rockinpoppa
  • go to this site and download the complete service manual for the 05 it should answer any question you have about install and removel. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6SGQPOHJ
  • Thanks, went to site dnloaded manual....Happy, happy....Thanks again....POPPA
  • Help. anybody found out how to get around the drivers auto down window feature???? i like to crack drivers window without having to pull up on switch to stop it from going all the way down, Thanks POPPA
This discussion has been closed.