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Ford Escort ZX2

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Comments

  • click23click23 Member Posts: 3
    That is the same car that my wife has and it does have a crankcase breather filter. Take a look at the link in my first post. You can see it to the right of the red arrow, unhooked. This is on the back of the vavle cover on the drivers side. Just take it off and look at the bottom, the part number should be made into it. Then put it back on and take that number to the dealer and tell them that is what you need.
  • maurice99maurice99 Member Posts: 2
    Robert:

    You were absolutely correct - the noise was caused by the clogged crankcase filter. I can't believe that my local Ford Dealer did not know that it existed. After I told them the part number they read the description and sure enough it was the crankcase filter just like you said.

    I had a the same Ford Dealer tell me that the noise was caused by "a booster pump in the transmission" and that if I did not rebuild the transmission soon it would eventually fail and end up costing me a lot more. I was quoted $2,800 to rebuild the tranny. Mmmmm, I can't wait to visit the service department on Monday and talk to the Service Manager: the car does not make the noise any more and runs better than when I bought it! All for a $15 filter!!!!

    I can't thank you enough! Thanks again and I hope to someday help someone else out in the same fashion that you helped me out.

    Take care,

    Maurice
  • dmq2212dmq2212 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a way to put on a new Serpentine Belt that will bypass the A C compressor? The pulley and compressor will not turn so I just want to bypass the A C compressor altogether. My vehicle is a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2.
  • davesmith76davesmith76 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having bad problems with a misfire in cylinder 1. The car usually runs fine when I first start it up. About a mile or so down the road, usually while decelerating or accelerating (stop and go type stuff) the service engine light will start blinking for about a minute and you can really feel it run ruff then for a while. It will go and come during the course of a short trip. I changed the wires, and the plugs, but it still does it. Seems to be getting good spark to all cylinders. The code is "Misfire in Cylinder 1" Does anyone have any info on what this problem is?
  • yuntekyuntek Member Posts: 1
    Could be an injector problem. If you can get access to a snap-on scanner, you can check the pulse width on each injector( in your case cyl 1 )>. I'm not 100% that, this is your problem but its something to consider. Give me a day or two so I can compare your problem to some service bulletins and or TSB's and I might have a more educated guess for you. GOOD LUCK
  • newbie16newbie16 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I just bought a 98 ZX2 escort last week with 86000 miles on it. here is the problem: When i accelerate to upto 20-30 mph everything is normal, but when i try to accelerate further there is a sudden jerk, its almost like the car is about to stall. But the car just stutters for a second or two and then runs smooth. The gas was near empty so I filled it up, but the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. This is my first ever car, so I really do not know what is happening to the car. I would appreciate if someone could diagnose it before I try to take it to the mechanic.

    Thanks in advance.
    Abhijith
  • cheri4cheri4 Member Posts: 1
    i am thinking of getting a 98 ford escort with 85000 miles. it is also a zx2. i really know nothing about cars and wondered if it a good car.
  • davesmith76davesmith76 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, It turned out the connector was not making a good connection to the injector on cyl 1. Thanks for the advice!
  • newbie16newbie16 Member Posts: 2
    A car is as good as your last drive. I bought this escort as it was within my budget. Im no expert in car either but before buying any car do these two things:

    1. Check the carfax history at carfax.com
    2. Take it to a mechanic before purchase and do a 60 point/30 point check on the car
  • mark58mark58 Member Posts: 4
    Robert & Maurice
    I, too, had the tranny diagnosis for this problem. I'm so glad I came here before having the "repair" done! Yes, this filter fixed my '99, and it hasn't run this well in a long time. My local parts store had a hard time finding the part #, so here's the Motorcraft part number for others who might need this fix: FA-1661 F8CZ-6A768-AB (Breather Filter). Thanks, guys, for saving me a $2000 repair bill that wouldn't have solved a thing!
    Mark
  • mark58mark58 Member Posts: 4
    Okay, I got the screech fixed, but now the air conditioner isn't working. I'm not hearing the compressor kick in. This just happened suddenly--it worked fine last week. Before I take it in, what might the problem be, besides the compressor being completely shot? I'm ignorant when it comes to auto mechanics, so any guidance is appreciated here. Thanks.
    Mark
  • remowusremowus Member Posts: 40
    I have the same problem . I checked all the connections,
    battery,ground etc. and everything looks good and tight.
    My next guess is the belt tensioner may need to be tensioned. I have a 2000 zx by the way .
  • jellybeanjellybean Member Posts: 3
    "Also, so some of you know, I've been told by 6 differant tire shops in town that you can NOT go any bigger than 185/60/R14 tires on these ZX2's because of front shock tower clearance"

    Bull! I have had my 99zx2 since Jan. '99. At my first tire replacement (prob within 1 year;) went up to 195/60/R14 on the five-star 'cool' wheels. If you have the swirl in the wheel design, I suspect that would could go wider, but be ready to spring for 50 series tires. The 60 and 50 are for a ratio of tread-width to side-wall height.

    Short version: Go wider, buth maintain overall tire radius.

    The shops have to recommend that you only use the factory size tire, cause if they tell you to change it and you lose-control-mow-down-eight-people one day, they don't want anything to do with the blame.

    BTW I have had the same set of Yokohama's on my zx2 for 4.5 years and they also have terrific traction. You usually lose one of the benefits to get the other, but not with these.
  • swedeeswedee Member Posts: 1
    There is a safety device in your brake that is broken. You can simply have it removed or replaced. This happened to me. I have a ZX2 as well. There is a little button-looking removable piece on the base of the gear shift (not sure how to explain it), if you pop it out and stick a metal rod in there the safety device should be dissabled. good luck. Hey do you have any A/C problems? Mine stopped working 2 years ago.
  • tpmjr2004tpmjr2004 Member Posts: 1
    My sister has a 99 that has had its difficulties. Currently it is sitting in her driveway because it can only drive a few miles without dying. After waiting half an hour or so, the car will start up and drive for a few more miles. What could be causing this? Could it be the crankshaft position sensor that I hear everyone talking about. I had a similar problem with a Cherokee I had, the crankshaft position sensor was the problem. Thanks for the help.

    I also have a problem with my 2000 zx2. There is a vaccuum hose that runs from the front of the engine to the back and then goes into a 90 degree bend. That bend has cracked before and replaced. But now the hose pops off periodically and causes the car to die every time the car goes to an idle. Has anyone else ever had this problem? My sister also had to replace the bend.
  • jellybeanjellybean Member Posts: 3
    I find it odd that so many people here are having so many problems with a ZX2. I must have gotten very lucky. I have had mine for 7+ years, it has 96K miles, and I have fixed two things...the reverse light switch on the transaxle and the battery. No joke, I have yet to replace a lightbulb, or anything else except for tune-up parts. I have heard that some cars are like that though; some are put together on Monday, and it shows. (Or Cinco de Mayo...for us)
  • remowusremowus Member Posts: 40
    I hope mine was not a Monday car. I reported that my battery light was coming on at about 3 thousand rpm intermittently on monday. That problem seems to have stopped and this morning my tach died. It died an agonizing
    death though. It kept going up to about 2000 rpm's and then it would bounce off the peg. It finally died at about
    8:12 a.m. RIP. This is leading me to believe I have a short somewhere. Any one got an idea where?
    Matt
  • jellybeanjellybean Member Posts: 3
    If I were you, I would be interested in testing out either the camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. One of those (I don't remember which) dictates the tach value (and also optimizes timing, etc.)

    Chilton's manual tells what a volt meter should read for each. If these check out, you may have a wiring problem and I do not envy you. If there is a problem with the cam or crank position sensor, the tach may be the least of your problems in the near future. (Hope it isn't the crank sensor...must remove exhaust manifold first ;( )
  • woodyiwvispwoodyiwvisp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 ford escort with a 4 speed automatic (E). I have been having shifting problems. After it has warmed up it will not shift to 3rd when leaving a stop sign or, more problematic, entering a freeway via the on ramp. It does not do it all the time and no codes come up at the shop. the car has 158K miles and I just had the transmission serviced. The problem came about before the service and still exists. I have tried manually shifting with no luck. The fluid levels are all good and there seems to be no other problems.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Robert
  • clevercassiusclevercassius Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 escort sedan lx, and if you're referring to the "oil collector hose" that connects the pcv valve at the front to a small input the top of the intake manifold, i had the same problem last weekend...

    i have almost 290000kms on the car and ford wanted around $40CDN for the hose, so instead i just rolled up some aluminum from a pop can, slid that into the end of the 90 degree part so the hose wouldn't implode at the leak anymore (but the hose still functions)...then i duct-taped it...works fine now...

    you might want to check that you put the little spring clamp back on where the hose connects to the intake manifold...or maybe try putting a new hose clamp that you can tighten with a screwdriver over it if the original just isn't doing it anymore...
  • remowusremowus Member Posts: 40
    I did get it checked out. The battery had a dead cell and the alternator wasn't putting out any juice. The battery was only about a year and a half old from AutoZ.
    Since my other car was out of town I had to get it fixed by my friendly local mechanic. Only 400 balloons.
    But its running good and has recovered the lost power I had noticed. I did'nt know that the fuel injection had a direct connection to the alternator on this. So I learned something too.
  • nontoxicdaynontoxicday Member Posts: 5
    I picked up my 99 ZX2 in July of 2005. It had quite a few miles on it then, and now I just watched it turn over 104,600. Lately, I've been having a heck of a time with it. I really enjoy this car because it feels like it is a better fit for me than the Beretta I had, and I'd really like to keep it for a while.

    Problem #1: The temp gauge is out of control. It used to be below the C when I would start it, and gradually work its way up to a little left of center once it had warmed up. Well, lately, it hadn't been starting anywhere near the C, and usually began at the middle, sometimes floating back and forth. One day it was getting closer and closer to the red zone, so I took it in because I thought it was going to overheat. Well, after letting it sit for an hour, it never did overheat. Now, it starts at the H line, and is currently resting between the H line and the red zone when I'm driving it. The coolant was just topped off, and didn't help any. The needle just kind of floats around, but mainly stays on the hot side more than anything anymore. This is making me a nervous wreck to drive, but since I'm at school I have no other mode of transportation. I also wondered, since I don't have an owner's manual (and would it even address this anyway) if there is a red light for when it really does overheat, and is that connected to the gauge itself or to something completely different? Has/Is anyone else experiencing this? What is a recommended fix?

    Problem #2: When turning the car on, if I want to turn on the heater/air conditioner, I have to wait until the car has been running for a while, or it will just die. A while as in having driven it a few blocks. Turning on the headlights right after I turn the car on will not kill it, but they will dim and the RPM's will change, and then it will be normal again. The defroster went either way-killed it, or just dimmed the lights and started working. Any answers for that? I've tried skimming the posts, and haven't found anything that's been answered for it, but maybe I missed some. Can anyone help out here?

    I love my car, but even just the temp gauge is making me a nervous wreck driving it! I've already had a couple coil packs changed, and the computer to those when it started doing the same thing the third time. And, I've also had a water pump fixed. The temp gauge had acted up before, but the problem had gone away, but now it's back and worse than ever.
  • jonmckinneyjonmckinney Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 zx2. Could you recommend a high-performance/high-flow crank case breather filter?
  • strollerstroller Member Posts: 3
    nontox..
    I had the same exact problem last month.
    It is a temperature sending unit.
    It costs only $15.00.
  • willnetiwillneti Member Posts: 1
    Hi my wife has a 98 ford escort zx2,it was running great but now as soon as you push the gas pedal just a little it stars to jerk and the "service engine light on the panel starts to blink"when you release the gas pedal goes back to normal i've change the gas filter,spark plugs but now don't know the next step.
    thank you
    willy.
  • jonmckinneyjonmckinney Member Posts: 4
    You wouldn't still have a part number for that temp. sending unit, would you? I sure would appreciate it if you did.
  • strollerstroller Member Posts: 3
    I'm sorry. I don't have the part number on the temp sending unit. I simply went into my local CAP (Consumer Auto Parts) store and asked for the part.
  • jonmckinneyjonmckinney Member Posts: 4
    Thanks anyways. I did purchase a crank case breather and that has helped tremendously. It took me a long time to find the correct part number. I've heard it called a "crank case vent oil seperator," "crank case breather," and "crank case breather filter." A Ford dealer wanted $85 for the part. The AutoZone kid had no idea what I was talking about. If he couldn't look it up on the computer, he was lost. Finally, NAPA found the part for me. They had to order it, but it arrived by 1:30 pm the next day. The cost: $9.69. Thank you NAPA!
    I wonder if the temp. sending unit you're talking about is the same part I'm talking about. Where does it sit on the engine?
    The crank case breather was attached to the rear valve cover by a small section of hose. The actual part was about 1/2 the size of a tomato soup can. Another hose leading from the part went into the base of the air filter housing.
  • strollerstroller Member Posts: 3
    I'm curious as to what problem replacing the crank case oil separator fixed for you?

    While looking at the engine, the temp. sending unit is just below and to the left of the thermostat and just above and to the right of the PCV valve.
  • beisbulbeisbul Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 99 zx2 about a week and a half ago. It has 48,000 miles on it. It runs fine, but the service engine light has come on. Auto Zone says it is a misfire in cylinders 1 and 4. I have replaced plugs and wires, but no success. Is there anything else that is a fairly easy fix, or should I take it to a mechanic?
  • xxervioxxervio Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 zx2 VCT. Yesterday i bought some custom guage faces from speedhut. i was installing them using a multimeter i found a 12 volt source that turns on and off when i turn my parking lights on and off. I also have an avatal aftermarket car alarm installed. This alarm when armed or disarmed makes the dashboard lights blink. My retarded self after finding a good 12v source that turns on and off left the parking lights on. Well i went and spliced the wire to add the new gauges to it and while splicing i fried something. I am hoping it's just a fuse i blew but i can not find a fuse blown. My dashboard lights do not come on anymore and netierh do my parking lights. Only thing that comes on are my headlights. Now when i disarm and arm my car alarm my dashboard lights still blink. it's just when i turn the switch on the left of the steering column to parking lights nothing happens. Anyone have a clue or can tell me which fuse is use for this? i don't think it's a fuse since the alarm still makes them come on.
  • mj1964mj1964 Member Posts: 2
    I cannot find anyone who Carries this Crank Case Breather Filter I even tried the online NAPA, By chance do you have a part no.
  • kcart55kcart55 Member Posts: 2
    I just ordered mine today. On top of the breather there is an engineering number. On mine it's F8KE-6A768-AC. According to my local Ford dealer it references Motorcraft #FA-1661. I tried Advance auto parts, but they said it is a dealer item. It's $16.10 here.
  • kcart55kcart55 Member Posts: 2
    1998 Escort ZX/2:I read code P1380 "variable cam timing solenoid circuit" and code P1381 "Timing over advanced". Where is this solenoid located and how hard is it to replace? Thanks, Kevin
  • mj1964mj1964 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks I wasn't sure if I was looking at the correct part but my part number is exact to yours so Yup thats it... I placed my order at RockAuto.com
  • mvg22mvg22 Member Posts: 2
    I would like anyone's input on this issue as well. I had this error message, but it was intermittent and hasn't shown up in months. My car idles very low (less than 1K RPM) and stalls if I turn the A/C on. It also acts as if it is in neutral instead of drive when I'm stopped and attempting to pull out in traffic. Again, an intermittent problem. Any suggestions greatly appreciated! It's a '98 and has 98K miles.
  • nontoxicdaynontoxicday Member Posts: 5
    Well, I replaced it, but it still didn't change anything. So, the dealership gets it back, because it started doing this not long after they replaced a computer in it (not sure if they are related, but it was fine before that).

    This car is possessed. Has been, and I guess it always will be. I'll let you know what they say it is. (And at least it doesn't go back to acting normal now, so they can see what it does-that's why it still hadn't been fixed-noone would touch it since it wasn't acting up for them).
  • silvawsilvaw Member Posts: 2
    Quick question. My car is having the same issue. I found in a post linked off this one that the Motorcraft number is FA1661. When I looked that up on Motorcraft it doesn't look at all like the picture you have linked in your post. I found the filter in my car that looked just like the one you have in the picture. The number on the top of the filter is F8KE 6A768 AC. Is this the correct filter?

    Thanks.
  • silvawsilvaw Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue. Did you recieve the correct part for RockAuto. I looked up a picture of FA1661, but it didn't look like the filter I pulled of my car. It too has the number F8KE-6A768-AC and it's a little black cylinder with a tube on the bottom and one on the side.
  • nontoxicdaynontoxicday Member Posts: 5
    Okay, going to feel a little silly now, but we had replaced the wrong part. And, apparently, parts of my engine are not 99 parts; they are from a 97, which baffled the dealership, but they got everything straightened out. At first, they thought the whole engine was a 97, but just parts of it.

    We replaced the wrong sensor. I really didn't feel too comfortable with my dad digging too far into it anyway-he wasn't even sure what he was looking for (worked on Fords in the 70s, but won't do much with them now).

    Thanks for all your help-runs like a charm now!
  • sbarstowsbarstow Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone please tell me where to find the pcv valve and hose on this car? According to the read outs from the dealer, I needed to have this replaced. Well, I have a new valve and I have the hose for my 99 Escort ZX2 DOHC. Please if anyone knows where this thing is located, I really need to know.

    Thanks!
  • angeladtangeladt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Ford Escort ZX2. The coil pack on it seems to be going out at random. The car will start jerking and die and not start again. I don't know much about cars so of course I have no clue what is going on, but even my mechanic cannot figure this one out. My mechanic is a family member so he does everything on my car pretty cheap. He has talked to several other mechanics including a few at a Ford dealership, and he has had no luck finding a solution to the problem. The suggestions that we have tried include: checking for a bad ground wire or short in the wiring, replacing the spark plugs, doing a tune up, replacing the spark plug wires, and replacing the wiring harness. None of this has solved the problem. Replacing the coil pack always solves the problem temporarily. It has been replace about 5 or 6 times now in the last 6 months. Fortunately for me the coil pack had a lifetime warranty and I was able to get a new one for free each time. Now O'reilly's is refusing to honor the warranty and will not replace it any more. Can anyone give me any ideas on what is causing this problem or what I can tell my mechanic to look for? I really appreciate any help. Thanks.
  • nontoxicdaynontoxicday Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem, and after 3 coil packs, I took it to the dealership and they had to replace the computer. This has solved the problem, but it will cost a pretty penny.
  • remowusremowus Member Posts: 40
    I have tuned it up, checked all the conections and fuel injectors.
    A couple of mechanics looked at it. No one can tell me why it cranks over about seven or eight times before starting.
    It used to crank once or twice. Runs good once it starts.
    Anybody have an idea?
  • angeladtangeladt Member Posts: 2
    The computer has already been replaced. I must have forgotten to mention that one in the things that I've already tried. It didn't work. That was one of the first things that we tried on the car. But thanks anyway.
  • domenico55domenico55 Member Posts: 1
    Robert,

    Want to thank you very much for your information regarding that "squeal". My wife's '98 ZX2 was doing exactly the same thing. Our mechanic could not find anything; said he didn't hear it, but did change the electric cooling fan (said the bearings were going bad), but the noise was STILL there $330 later! I ordered the breather filter for $14.44, installed it yesterday afternoon, took a 50 mile drive today, and the sound is completely gone. Again, thanks very much for your wonderful information!

    Domenico55
  • nontoxicdaynontoxicday Member Posts: 5
    I'm sorry. Ack, I hope you find something out, and I hope it's not too terribly expensive. I can understand your frustration!
  • tmurphytmurphy Member Posts: 10
    It's located on the right side (as you face the engine)of the upper block just behind the radiator and under the upper radiator hose. You need small fingers to get at it.
    It really doesn't have to be replaced but just cleaned out with Gumout. As long as it's clean and the spring is loose, it's okay.
  • pastbartpastbart Member Posts: 1
    I've been told my a mechanic that my wife's 2000 ZX2 needs a solenoid, pulley and something else that together cost over $800 for parts. something about not retarding or advancing the camshaft. He says something about the oil pressure needing to be over 50psi and a little pin hole that the oil has to go through. Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? Help!

    Tom
  • mvg22mvg22 Member Posts: 2
    Does your wife's car idle low (around 500 RPM)? I have gotten the solenoid / overadvanced camshaft error message, and even though a mechanic managed to do something to get the service engine light off, it hasn't improved the performance at all. If I can find what the part was, I'll let you know, but I didn't see any real benefit.
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