Subaru Crew - Modifications II

ateixeira · July 2005

In that case you can see the A-pillar in the front, but not the B-pillar. So that gives you an idea of the difference.

Nice pic.

-juice

rsholland · July 2005

That's more a result of the lighting, as the sunlight is much closer to the A pillar, than the B pillar.

Bob

p0926 · July 2005

It actually doesn't look nearly that dark in person and from the inside you hardly notice that the windows are tinted.

I wonder... would an OB owner be more or less likely to get questioned for having darker than 35% tint on the rear windows? On the one hand it's technically classified as a truck but in reality it really is just a station wagon (while the Forester can usually pull-off a convincing mini-SUV imitation)

-Frank

hondafriek · July 2005

This is 35% front and 20% rear on my GT wagon.

Cheers Pat.

hypov · July 2005

IIRC wagons are classified as MPV [Multi-Purpose Vehicle] wherein if you paint the rear windows it would still be legal.

Here's a tint chart, by States - State Tint Law Chart

-Dave

paisan · July 2005

You can have anything behind the driver and front passenger up to 0%, You can have 70% next to driver and front passenger.

-mike

joeb24 · July 2005

I had a hood deflector installed on my 2006 OB LL Bean. I purchased it at a Subaru dealer, and I had them install it. The Technician said it was difficult to install ( I think it was the first one he installed). The deflector fits very well; it seems to be more sturdy than the one I had on my 2001 LL Bean. I just wonder if the new one will make through an automatic car wash? The previous one did not!

kens · July 2005

Hey wow! That is my old Forester parked in front of our previous place too. Brings back memories. :-)

And for something a little more current, some pics of my current 2005 Legacy GT Ltd wagon with also 20% on all the windows behind the driver (needs Sony Imagestation log-in to view):

Ken

ateixeira · August 2005

lark6 · August 2005

55% front, 35% rear.

Ed

njswamplands · August 2005

sorry no dazzling pics

ateixeira · August 2005

Especially with those rims, Ed.

-juice

204meca · August 2005

Now that I have recovered from the rear sway bar install, I am ready for the next minor mod. But 1st, do the factory flaps do a good job of protecting the paint from gravel injury?

Do the wheels have to be removed for installation?

Thanks

lark6 · August 2005

So far so good with the factory mud flaps here, but to be honest I'm seriously considering replacing them with larger, rally-style mud flaps before next winter comes. A lot of the municipalities around where I live use gravel and cinders as well as salt and sand on the roads in winter. There's also been a lot of road construction in the area this year that's put even more gravel and stones on the roadways. I've already had to replace a windshield on a year-old car! :sick:

I've installed 3M Stongard film on my car's headlights and fog lights myself, and I had the nose of the car covered with a thinner version of the film by a professional installer. I wish I could get that clear film to cover the entire windshield.

Ed

lark6 · August 2005

Especially with those rims, Ed.

Thanks juice. Yes, I was pleasantly surprised. It's a nice, subtle look.

Hindsight is 20:20 though and I think I'd go 35% front, 20% rear if I had to do it again. I still have to put up a window shade over the passenger side rear window where my son sits. I use one of those tinted static clings as opposed to the roller blind that adheres with suction cups. I have one of those but I'm not sure if it'd harm the tint film (Madico Onyx).

Ed

ateixeira · August 2005

Kinda looks like one of those Olde Tyme photos in black & white.

-juice

kens · August 2005

Nice tint job, Ed. I wish California law would allow the tinting of the front side windows. :-(

Madico Onyx is good stuff. That's what I have on my Leggy. I had a Madico flim on my 98 Forester and it was very tough. I don't think suction cups would damage the finish as long as both film and suction cup were clean prior to application. You might want to try in a inconspicuous corner first.

Ken

stantont · August 2005

Well, I did the Dynamat Extreme treatment in my '02 Legacy wagon. Cost about $120 on eBay (36 square feet) and took 8-9 hours to do the underside of the hood, the "trunk" floor, all 4 doors, and a bit in the tailgate. I used all of the "bulk pack", and threw away perhaps 4 or 5 square inches of tiny pieces at the end.

Noise treatment on a Legacy is a bit like gilding the lily because it is already a pretty quiet car, but after our 5000 mile trek from Austin to Quebec in June, I decided even a minor reduction in noise would pay off in reduced trip fatigue. As expected, overall reduction was probably 3-6 db, which corresponds to a 50-70% reduction in noise intensity, but it doesn't seem like much to the ear, which operates approximately on a db scale. (A 2db change is barely detectable). Overall effects are subtle at first, but here are some specific points:
1. the "boom" resonance in engine sound at 2600-3000 rpm is gone, probably mostly from treating the underside of the hood. I find myself upshifting at higher rpm until I get used to the new sound, or look at the tach. The engine is virtually inaudible at 70-75 mph cruise.
2. tire and road noise are reduced to the point that wind noise is now the loudest sound in the car at 75 mph; previously, wind noise was masked by other noises
3. the doors close with a massive-sounding "thud" instead of a wham (not very practical, but very noticeable).
4. overall, outside noises are still present, but seem more remote; my wife (not a car person) says the car sounds more isolated. Other vehicles sound farther away. The Dynamat weighed 17 pounds, but the car sounds like it is 200-300 pounds heavier.
5. setting stereo volume at idle, you don't have to adjust the volume control until about 75 mph; on a coarse road, the tire roar is very much attenuated.
6. original door speakers sound clearer with the better-damped enclosure. I may or may not eventually upgrade them

On the other hand, low-pitched "thumps" through the floor seem unaffected. I could probably remove the carpets and treat the floor and reduce them, but it probably isn't worth the effort.

Overall, would I do it again? Probably so, even in the Legacy, because I really like the car, and plan to keep it a long time. If I still had my Accord, I'd do it in a heartbeat - it had more tire roar than any other sound in the car, and Dynamat is superb for that.

Stanton

ateixeira · August 2005

Sounds like quite a project (pardon my pun). :-)

-juice

joyride21 · August 2005

does any one hear of any way to chip a 00 wagon, i have surched everywhere. only thing i could come up with are those piggyback resistors which are crap. i want to do it the real way, please let me know

steve

bluesubie · August 2005

Try Vishnu for starters. http://www.vishnutuning.com

edit: Wait - on a 00? Nevermind.

-Dennis

uolax · August 2005

Can anyone suggest any type of mods for the 2003 legacy? I can't really get into the WRX price range but am looking to upgrade my legacy. Trying to find chips, air intake, exhaust, generic mods, or any general tips. Seems the factory air intake raps around and could very easily be improved.

Thanks,
Jason

joyride21 · August 2005

if you go to
http://www.xcceleration.com/leg-drive-sup.htm
or
http://www.boxer4racing.com/

there are some stuff there, a lot of cool stuff. but you probably won't have any luck on chipping, the only thing i found is the Hydra. its a system where you can go in and reprogram the computer yourself. but if you see those little piggyback resistors cost around 20-50 don't buy into it.

Good luck
Steve

uolax · August 2005

Thanks Steve,

Excellent Resources. Any thoughts about what is the most cost effective way to improve the overall hp? Especially the power band in second gear. I was thinking about an intake, pulleys, or a header. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Beau

stantont · August 2005

If you think about the physics, lighter pulleys have no effect on engine horsepower. Because of the reduced inertia of a lighter pulley, the engine revs up a bit faster, especially if lightly loaded (as by a drum on a chassis dyno), so the "computed" hp is greater. But in the real world, where the engine is accelerating the mass of the car (3600 pounds more or less, with driver), installing a 2-pound lighter pulley would have absolutely no measurable effect on acceleration. You'd have about as much effect by taking a leak before your acceleration run, thus lightening the car by a pound or so. Or toss out the junk in your glove box.

If it were really that easy, don't you think Subaru's engineers would do it?

Just a dose of reality...

StanT

locke2c · August 2005

as Denis' edited comment indicates, there is nothing to gain by chipping an '00 wagon because it is naturally aspirated. you can install a new muffler to enjoy some sexy flat four sounds, but you're not going to gain much power from any simple modification.

~Colin

joyride21 · August 2005

as you saw above, i know all of the internal mod sites, they are my bookmarks on my pc. i just didn't know if there was a computer program that wasn't 1500 bucks for a hydra

steve

mikeydee · August 2005

Check into Cobb Tuning; they've got a thing called AccessPORT ECU programmer for less than $650. Have no idea how well it works, but the description sounds pretty good. Also don't know much about Cobb either; if anyone's had experience with them, I'd be interested in hearing about it.

bluesubie · September 2005

The AccessPort is for a turbo. For some more ideas, check out the current issue of Subiesport magazine for some power mods they did to a 2.5RS. They replaced the cams with the Cobb cams, something which Colin is very familiar with.

Including the other mods they did, that got 20 extra h.p. Cost for the parts was $3,196 and labor and dyno time was $2,000.
-Dennis

lfdal · September 2005

$5196 for 20 Extra horsepower? Think I'd use that as down payment on an XT

But all that matters is if he felt the money was well spent.

Larry

hondafriek · September 2005

I have to admit to a bit of a warped sense of humour every time I read a post where some body thinks they are gonna get a bunch more horsepower for a minimal outlay. Having been there and done that for many years, I can speak from experience and declare extra horses ain't cheap.

Cheers Pat.

tremere · September 2005

Anyone know where I can get a center console for a 2003 WRX which has cup holders? I don't like the cupholder being above the CD player and would prefer the way the later models have the cup holders beside the emergency brake.

hypov · September 2005

Did an interesting mod today.
Removed the underseat woofer and mounted it on the under side of the seat base with bungie cords.

Result:
- The woofer now fires towards the floor.
- Adjusting the High Cut and Gain is so much easier vs when it was on the floor.
- The subwoofer no longer obstructs the floor vent passge.
- No earth shaking, just better less muffled sounding base.

And,...

- my toosh gets a nice massage :shades:

Only wished I'd heated seats - heated massge

-Dave

fibber2 · September 2005

Dave,

That would also keep it safe (safer...) from 'yogurt bombs' like the one my daughter tossed under the seat!!!!

Steve

hypov · September 2005

Hmmm... yogart bombs...
didn't think that does happen.
Guess it does

The mod hasn't been subjected to the S/O test. If she hates it there, it's back to the floor.

But, I'll keep the woofer on my side up there.

-Dave

locke2c · September 2005

I had Cobb cams and a whole lot of other goodies on my '99 2.5RS. 20HP is about right for a best case scenario.

Save yer money...

~Colin

bluesubie · September 2005

I miss the under the seat sub. The Forester has it in the wrong place (cargo area). :disco:

-Dennis

paisan · September 2005

Well I'm finally gonna get down to doing some mods on the Legacy Turbo soon. Picked up a Bosal Divorced Wastegate DP and plan to get that in along with catless custom midpipe mated up to my Scooby Sport UK muffler. After that the next plan is for a TD04 turbo, MBC and WRX intercooler. Hopefully should bump it up to about 200hp and 230lbs from the stock 165hp/190lbs torque We shall see though.

-mike

joeb24 · September 2005

I have a 2006 Outback LL Bean and am considering window tinting. Does anybody have experience with Ziebart? If not Ziebart, can anyone recommend another outfit? I live in northern VA (the DC area).

michael_lee76 · September 2005

I just bought 2006 Subaru Forester L.L. Bean edition, and am thinking about putting rear diff. protector, but I'm not sure if I would benefit from it.

I don't think I will be driving it offroad, but I live in minnesota and we get a lot of snow. would I benefit from installing it or would I be wasting money doing so?

Thanks.

P.S., how hard is it to install it?

ateixeira · September 2005

I have one on my '98. There are a couple of deep scratches on it so it's not useless, for sure.

It takes 4 bolts to install, but on mine I had to remove a couple of exhaust hangers to have clearance. You might not have to, or you might have low-profile tools to avoid having to do that.

I did the trailer hitch at the same time. Finished both in one morning, not too bad.

Figure 1-2 hours if you have a low-profile wrench that fits, 2-3 if you don't.

-juice

lfdal · September 2005

Its an easy install. If you have some 14 or 15mm gear wrenches, you shouldn't need to mess with the exhaust hangers.

That being said, if you plan to do your own differential fluid, you might want to do one of three things

1) cut a notch around the bottom of the diff protector such that the drain hole won't allow the fluid to drain into the protector vs the bucket

2) Get a Prodrive unit. costs more but looks like the shield unbolts fairly easy

3) Loosen up the two rear studs, remove the two rear-most bolts, loosen the front most bolts and swivel the unit down for drainage. That takes about an extra 15 minutes.

HTH

Larry

ateixeira · September 2005

Just change the fluid before you add the skid plate. Then you won't have to worry about it for a while.

I basically used some rags and it wasn't a big problem.

-juice

bat1161 · September 2005

Is Subaru offering the rear differential protector anymore? Or do you have to go 3rd party for that? I don't notice it on the options page anymore.

Mark

michael_lee76 · September 2005

Thanks for your reply.

I guess I will install it on my car. But I'm new to this rear differential fluid thing. Do I have to change it sometime?, if so, how often do I have to change it?

Also, do I need a jack to lift the car before installing it? (I have never worked on a car before.. not even oil change, not even tire rotation..)

ateixeira · September 2005

Some people change every 30k miles. I did mine at 60k and to be honest it wasn't really that dirty. But I would not wait longer than that.

My Miata's was dirty after 30k miles, though it was 8 years old at the time.

-juice

rthompson10 · October 2005

For some unknown reson I want to make my 03 OB more industrial and put a pushbar on it.

Have only seen these on the Australian sites. Any know if any are offered in the US?

Thx
Robert

masan · October 2005

It's about time to replace the Geo's on my Forester. I'm thinking about going with Yoko Avid H4's and getting a tire/wheel package from Tire Rack. Any recommendations for inexpensive wheels to replace the steelies? They have a Sport Edition D5 with an offset of +50 mm. Would that be OK for a Forester with a 48 offset? I thought about ordering a set of alloys from 1st Subaru Parts, but they're more expensive.

fibber2 · October 2005

Three years ago I purchased a wheel/tire package from Tire Rack for winter use on my '02 OBW (225/60-16). At the time I wanted the Sport Edition Fox 2, but they were out of stock, and I ended up with the S.E. Fox 5 instead. They are made by Fomb in Italy (they make Milli Miglia as well), and after 3 winters the painted and sealed finish is wearing beautifully. I like the look (five thin double spokes), and the price was very reasonable. Unfortunately, it does not look like it is offered any more. The offset is indeed very slightly off, but the rep at Tire Rack claims they are within acceptable limits, and on their internal approved list.... whatever that really means....

Steve

ateixeira · October 2005

I have the Falken Ziex 512s on my Miata, and I'm happy enough with them that I'll get another set for my Forester when the time comes. Grip is impressive.

-juice

Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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