GMC YUKON BRAKE WEAR PROBLEMS

rc10 · December 1999

I have a 1998 Yukon 4DR 4WD 5.7L. At 20,100 I had
the truck in for service and was told I needed new
front brake pads.I thought this was a bit early
even though I had heard that GM trucks were tough
on brakes, especially front, due to the weight
factor.I called the GMC helpless line and was told
the standard " everybody's driving style and
driving situations are different and that wear on
the brakes is not a warranty item." So I paid for a
$200.00 brake job.I just brought the Yukon in for
service at about 35,000 miles, and guess what?It's
time for new brake pads again. The service rep at
the GM dealer says I have about 2000 miles left on
the pads.I am a very careful driver and not a hot
dog.This time when I called the GMC helpless line
they opened a file on the problem and will have a
factory rep meet me at the dealership to inspect
the truck. Has anyone else out there had a similar
problem? Any ideas?

burdawg · December 1999

Your brake wear sounds normal to me for a heavy 4 wheel drive vehicle. Sounds like your getting about 20K out of a set of pads. You must do mostly mixed driving with more highway than suburban use. People using large SUV's for suburban use only are usually not getting that much mileage out of their front brakes.

vending · December 1999

Sounds like the guy above is from general motors.
Please.
Hey! Aren't they lifetime breaks anyway. I know, it's still a pain to gett'em changed.

burdawg · December 1999

No, I'm not from GM, but after 25 years experience as a mechanic, I know that brake wear like this person is describing is very usual for this type of vehicle. Brake wear is very dependent on type of use and driving habits of individuals. Original factory brakes tend to give the best performance both in lifespan and performance. You never know with aftermarket brakes, the material blend varies widely. It's best to stick with well known name brands.

ptrujillo · December 1999

I have also had to replace my brakes at about 20,000 miles and know at 28,000 miles my Yukon is doing the same thing.

jlivigni · December 1999

I have a 98 Yukon 2wd...with 34,000 miles on it now....the breaks started squaking at about 15k...dust everywhere...just kept on trucking...no problems with stopping distance or handling...eventually the noise stopped and all was fine...then it came back at 25k or so....same thing...just don't freak out...it went away...and all is fine again.

One person mentioned pulling...mine has always pulled to the right...even harder when breaking...took it to GM dealer..they would gladly realign the truck for +- $200...for the first reallign....no way...check your tire wear and pressure...I have found that when the tire pressure drops just a few pounds...it tends to pull real hard..if the right front tire starts getting low on mine....man...you could end up in a right hand spin....check you pressure...

back to breaks...this thing is huge and heavy...unless you hear serious problems...or have handling problems....keep on keeping on..

I am not a mechanic or a GM rep. just thrifty.

own_a_tahoe · December 1999

1. That brake job cost $200, not $350. There was other work done at that time. Unintentional price exaggeration.

2. Dealers: If there's two (or more) in your town, get a 2nd opinion. And remember, Chevy dealers can service (and sell parts to) GMC and vice versa. Carpeted floormats I wanted were on 12-week backorder at my Chevy dealer but IN STOCK at a local GMC dealer.

3. Sales and service departments are 2 different operations. I wouldn't (and didn't) BUY my car from either one of the two dealers I mentioned. But the service of the 2nd is outstanding.

own_a_tahoe · January 2000

Don't know where post #7 went...?

Pulling & Brakes are two separate and known problems. GM puts blocks in front end, to force vehicle drift to the shoulder, instead of into oncoming traffic, in the event driver gaps out. Within 1st 12k miles dealer will remove "knock-outs" for free, requires realignment. Of course, my first dealer didn't tell me that and wanted to charge me $250 for an "all-wheel alignment" (like #6 above). Second dealer removed it just for the $49 alignment cost (about 20k miles at that point), THAT solved the problem, tried rotating tires, cross-rotating, etc., etc.. Gee, when a dealer finally tells the truth...

Brakes, well, at 35k miles I'm just having my 2nd set of front pads put in. Sucks, big time. 15k 1st set, those weren't GM (1st dealer), those were replaced after 5k miles of complaining of dust, noise, smell..("Oh yeah, we weren't using GM pads for a while there"). So, 3rd set (2nd full set) at 35k, plus first set of rear shoes. Dealer says it's pure physics, weight of car w/auto-capacity brakes. Wife is apalled. #6, hope your rotors are intact!

fountain31 · January 2000

I had a 1996 Yukon 4X4 and had two alignments done during the first 30,000 miles and 1 set of brakes. I thought this was rediculous and I fought with the dealers and GMC and it got me nowhere. And don't you think I would have learned my lesson. NOOOOOO, I went back out and bought a 1998 4X4 Yukon. And guess what, same problems. These vehicles were never driven hard and minimal times in 4 wheel drive. Well I got rid of that one also. Now I smartened up, went and bought a Ford Excursion Limited. This vehicle blows away the Yukon and Suburban!

devine1 · January 2000

I do my own work on my vehicles and have found that when I replaced the standard GM pads with Raybestos Heavy use pads, my problems went away. By the way, I also replaced the Rotors with a set of after maket Rotors because I was having a lot a shimmer when I stepped on the brakes. New Pads cost less than $40, and they are lifetime on the parts.

jlflemmons · January 2000

I have a '96 extended cab GMC 1500. The first brakes lasted about 20K. The second set (wagner)squealed so bad I changed them in 5K. Then I put on GM Durastop, or something like that. 22K and they still look good. The pulling can be caused by the caliper binding in the guides. Try pulling the calipers, cleaning all the rust/dirt away with a wire brush and lubing with a brake grease (read: hi temp). I did this and the pulling has disappeared.

BTW I had the dealer call me when the truck was in for warranty work and told me the pads were 80% worn and that for ~$200 they would replace them while the truck was there. I drove down to the dealer and asked to see the pads. The service writer was quite embarrassed to find that I had just changed the pads a week earlier. The explanation? "Well, we know the pads wear out in about 20K miles, so we always recommend changing them. And no, I do not let that dealer work on my vehicles anymore.

vandeano · January 2000

I would rather push my GMC, then drive a FOrD. Especially an ExCUrsIon...that must be the uglyest vehicle made since the AMC Pacer.
That just my 2 cents.

protravel · February 2000

With all the brake problems here, sounds like
you have to PULL your GMC to a stop rather than
push it. Buy a Ford I went 60,000 before my first brake job, on my expedition.

rayid · February 2000

I had a 96 Suburban and know all to well of the problems these vehicles have with brakes. GM knows of the problem too, just check the adds for the new SUVs. One of the big features is the new braking systems. My suburban was on it's third set of front brakes and second set of rear brakes at 24,000 miles and 2 1/2 years old. The dealer also claimed the rear drums were shot. The brake pads had not damages them, they were just wore out. I could not believe a vehicle that was designed for heavy hauling could wear out drums that fast when I never used it for hauling anything. Most of its driving was done under 55 mph and it was not raced around town. Dealer gave the usual BS and said I did not have the rear brakes adjusted often enough. Amazed again, because that dealer adjusted them at 12,000 and 18,000 miles. It took me endless calls to the dealer and GM customer service to finally talk to the area service rep. She again tried saying passing the fault to me, or get this she actually said the salt and other road traction material that was put on the highways was to blame. I loved all her reasons, I was able to counter every one. It really shut her up when I pointed out that I had a 97 GMC 1500 pickup that I purchased only 3 months after the suburban, that had 5,000 more miles and had no brake problems. In the end I got my money back and the dealer lost me as a customer. If you have a 96 - 97 1500 series GM, you can get the rear brakes replaced for free. GM has a service bulletin that cover the rear brakes. If you search for GMC Suburban, you will find many discusions on the brake problems and suggestions for improvements, of course you will a have to pay for them. The Suburban was fun, but between gas, brakes and tires I could not afford to keep it on the road. Good luck with yours.

alaskadude · February 2000

Does anyone have a feel for how the 2000 Yukon brakes stack up to the older system? I know they're now 4W disc and are larger than past models. I'm considering a 2000 Yukon(feeling pressured because I have a lot of GM credit card $ to spend before the end of the year, and don't really care for any other GM product). I'm driving a 95 Jeep GC w/ the V8 in mixed city and highway, and regularly tow a 3000# trailer. It has 4W discs with 57,000 miles on the original pads, and there's LOTS of life left in them. Not necessarily trusting myself, (I have a hard time believing it couldn't need new brakes after this many miles considering the way it's driven)I had my mechanic look at them recently, and he felt it'd be a total waste of money to replace them.

Anyway, the larger Yukon would be nice, but the brake history concerns me. I plan to continue to tow (up to about 7000#), and really don't relish the extra hassle (doing it myself), or expense (paying someone else) of regularly burning through brakes.

Any comments? Thanks.

chevbrakes · March 2000

I had a similar brake problem with other chevy products. Have the mechanic check the adjustment of the rear brakes. I had the front brakes (and front shocks) go in 12,000 miles. I watched the rear brakes closely and finally changed them at 50,000 miles and they were hardly touched. All my braking was being done with the front pads. Once I adjusted the rear brakes properly, I haven't had a problem since.

jaz5 · March 2000

Does anyone know what year the Yukon swithched from 2-disc, 2-drum to all 4-disc brakes?
Are the 4-disc brakes significantly better?
While shopping for a used Yukon, should this be a concern?
Also does rear air conditioning (available in the new models) make a difference?

vticeman · March 2000

I too have had many brake problems. It seems I'm using cheese graters for brake pads the way they chew up the rotors or drums. By altering my driving habits I did extend the wear by 50%. Still not great. I'm hoping the 2000 is corrected. Any insight appreciated. As far as the Ford's, you've got to be kidding. Have you driven a Ford lately? I drove all 4 of their SUV's hoping to replace the Suburban. The seats are terribly uncomfortable. I think it's so you don't notice the ride, which resembles a lumber truck. The Excusion and Expedition wander down the road. You are constantly steering some sort of correction, simular to a ferry boat or other fixed prop boat. As far as gas mileage they all get 14-18, the burb, the expedition, the tiny little jeep. All suv's get that poor mileage with the exception of the Subaru, which can't really be called an SUV.
I talked to my mechanic who works on everything.
the bad news is they all have their problems. GM transmissions and brakes, Ford drive train, front seals. So drive them all, drive several of each model. Some are tight some loose. Two of the Fords vibrated like crazy. Brand new. Really, the Lexus and the Toyota are the good ones, if you've 60k to spend on a vehicle.

chowl · March 2000

I have worked for Napa Auto Parts for about 15 years and this was my first experience with brake pads wearing out in my first 35,000 miles. When I took it in to a shop I deal with they said without even looking how many miles I had on my truck, 35,100 exactly. They then proceeded to show me that the rear brakes had almost no wear what so ever, so after having the pads replaced with our new application engineered pad, (we now have a new ceramic pad that does not squeal and does not leave brake dust), I have better stopping ability and my pad life so far shows almost no wear for the 10,000 I have put on since.

einsteinalbert · March 2000

The clunk is cured by applying GM grease 12345879
to the sliding spline portion of the driveshaft so
it will no longer stick in the extended position.
No other grease works. It costs $30 for a pint
can but you can beg a little from the mechanic at
your local dealership. It is pale yellow in color. Contains maximum possible % of teflon. There is a bulletin about it, 92-265-7A, formerly 91-242-7A. I also recommend, while you have the driveshaft out, slightly rounding the corners of the spline teeth.

Brakes pulling to one side can be caused by front
brake hoses that are delaminating inside. If there are no visible or obvious problems with bad wheel bearings, scored rotors, seized up caliper slides, then replace both right and left hoses (cheap to do and should be done anyway as part of routine maintenance) before doing any other (usually expensive) work.

Albert Einstein

darrend · March 2000

Just some friendly advice. I have studied the auto industry "game" very closely. I know enough that I have been fortunate enough to help several friends negotiate and purchase expensive new cars. The advice I would give anyone having any difficulty with an automobile is, never, ever, ever, take it back to a dealership! I would even go as far as not taking the auto back for "free" services that come with the new car. In the long run, you'll save money. Now, there may be the rare case of a defective part or something that is covered by the factory warranty, in which case, take it back but be careful! (Dealerships can make more money in the service department than in the sales department!) Regarding extended warantee's, that whole concept favors the dealership and is not recommended for the prudent buyer. Anyway, e-mail me if you have any specific questions, it's not my job, I just like to help people out!

amonty99 · April 2000

After reading the problems with the Yukon and also the Tahoe, does anyone know if these problems have been corrected in the new 2000 models?

My husband and I are looking at getting one of the two listed above.

obyone · April 2000

Buy a '00 Yukon Denali. Older design. No problems. After the problems with my '00 Silverado bought the '00 Denali. 800 miles...no vibrations, clunking, pulling to one side while braking, driveline growl, etc. My Silverado has been and still is in and out of dealer over past 6 months and getting closer to lemon law time. Just my opinion. BTW, I had test drove the Yukon and Tahoe prior to buying the Denali. Neither rides as well as the Denali.

bhouston57 · May 2000

I just purchased a 98 Yukon with 35K miles and noticed the brakes seem terribly soft. I was blaming it on the ABS. Since there is so much discussion about brake problems, I'm thinking its time to replace pads and/or shoes. I have only had this vehicle 1 week and don't know if it is disc/shoes or disc all the way around. What year did they start 4 wheel disc ? Any info or advice appreciated

geewhiz3 · May 2000

The braking distance on my 1999 Yukon 4WD SLE has always scared the hell out of me. I'm at 19k miles now and I'm taking it in next week to a good local shop to check the brakes. Lots of dust but no squeaking. I agree that wagner pads are squeaky. Had them put on my Dodge pick up a couple of months back and they squeak like hell. The mechanic promises to replace them for free when I get a chance to drop it off. That truck is my work horse so it's been tough just finding the time to give it up. But back to the Yukon. Working on that beast has not been fun. Change the oil a couple of times and upgraded the headlamps to blue lights. Busted my knuckles each time.

GMC YUKON BRAKE WEAR PROBLEMS

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