Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

rutger3 · December 2003

Just a guess, but it might be the idle speed control valve has gone bad. Had a similair problem with my 99 camry. I just give it gas until the idle speed comes up and stays there. Usually happens when it has been in the cold for a long time.

marar · December 2003

The problem is with the main injector.
It fluctuaties with signal at stumble on acceleration only at initial take off. No missfire.
Manifold air pressure sensor was replaced.

stlshopper12 · December 2003

I have a 2002 Civic EX coupe, automatic. I had the oil changed a place other than a Honda dealer, so the maintenance required light was not reset. The owner's manual says to press and hold the reset button (trip mileage button) while the car is off, insert the keys in the ignition, start the car, and continue holding the button for 10 seconds. I have tried this numerous times and have not been successful. The dealer told me to do the same thing, but to hold the button for about 20 seconds. I have also tried this. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this?

bd21 · December 2003

You are are track, but you are turning the key a little to far. You are not supposed to actually start the car. This will reset your maintenance light.

bcullen · December 2003

I ahave this maddening chirping noise in my 99 Honda Civic-Ex...The noise only occurs when the car is traveling in excess of 65 mph. This maddening chirping sound seems to come from the passenger front somewhere under the dashboard. I have been unable to locate the source of this noise. Has anyone experienced a similar sound??? Help!!! I can't stand it much more.....

miester_v · December 2003

I recently got a new '04 Civic EX Coupe with AT. I noticed from the second day foward that the car made strange noises most notacibly when it accelerates from full stop. There's a high pitch whine, a low pitch buzz/hum, and a faint mid pitch rattle. However, my ears are very sensitive, but even then, I don't think this is normal. No doubt I'll send it in to a service center for a diagnosis, but I wonder if anyone would have a knowledgeable guess as to where these sounds are coming from and why.

crv16 · December 2003

I have a 2003 Civic that I bought a few months ago. Now, I have over 7,000 miles on it. I found that my mileage increased about .5 to 1 mpg every tank. Started out around 33mpg, and peaked around 40, before it declined a couple MPG with the introduction of winter gas. I get 37mpg pretty regularly now, with winter gas, and mostly highway driving.

stlshopper12 · December 2003

That did the trick. I must have misread the manual and thought I was supposed to start the car.

Thank you very much for the information!

auburn63 · December 2003

Possibly all due to a exhaust shield rattle. They get rusted and loose and make all kinds of noises. Other than that maybe the high pitch noise could be brakes...Good luck

comp · December 2003

Anyone experiencing the trunk lid closing too easily while on slight incline or in a light wind. Have had the trunk slap me in the head and shoulders a few too many times. Hinges seem to need more heft. Had the same problem on 91 Accord which was recalled for weak trunk hinge.

celica115 · December 2003

My WRX's trunck is weaker than the Civic. It even makes some noise when running over a bump. I was guessing that it was made by the rear suspension at the beginning. Later on my mechanic took the rear seat apart, and found out it was from the trunck. He adjusted the right angle to the trunck then the noise went away. 3 months after, now the noise is coming back. I give up for that. In fact, the Civic gives me more solid feel than my WRX but not the 1990 Celica.

wkwong66 · December 2003

your lucky to get that much, i drive the hybrid to work each day (105 miles each way) and is just getting a little over 40 mpg. but i drive averaging 75-80 mph. so i know my driving didn't help the sticker est mpg chart.

but i did notice a difference when i use different brand gas. i changed from sunoco to mobil and seem to be using less gas. i gas up every two days and is saving a gallon each time compare to when i was using the sunoco gas. (both regular unleaded).

mattpdx · December 2003

Hi-

I am using Chevron mid-grade (89oct). Do you have any recommendations for a better fuel?

MattPDX
AIM: MattPDX
mattpdx@hotmail.com

ncampbell2002 · December 2003

My recommendation is to use 87 octane and save your money. You are wasting it by using a higher octane in a vehicle that doesn't require it. There are many tests out there that prove that statement and even in some cases, the vehicle actually loses a little bit of performance. The only recommendation I would make to you would to possibly try to find a gas station that has 100% fuel. My local Marathon station carries it with no ethanol additives.

lawdawgfl · December 2003

I am contemplating buying a new 04 HX 5 spped, after going to the Honda website and building my new car I have a few questions. Are the fog lights worth the money, or would aftermarket lights be better? How about the keyless enter and the alarm? Would an after market one be better? I am looking at the HX for the fuel economy. I currently have two gas hogs a Chevy Tahoe (wifes car) and a Nissan Xterra (giving to my daughter). With all the driving a do and plan on doing getting 44 mpg would be a nice change. Any problems with either one of these two items?

ncampbell2002 · December 2003

I have an 03 Civic Ex, I installed an aftermarket fog light set for $60 compared to the dealer's $300+ and they look just as good under there. It was a pain to wire it, but luckly I have a friend with a hydrolic hoist so that helped. You have to remove the splash shield and part of the bumper also. If you go aftermarket with those plan on spending the day installing them. I would be careful with the aftermarket alarms, disabling devices etc. I heard if something gets messed up with the car Honda and other car manufactures can find a reason to void the warranty on certain parts due to the aftermarket installation of equipment without Honda's consent.

gregoryc1 · December 2003

Question, ----Why would anyone purchase a "high quality vehicle" and then install after market parts, (of questionable quality), on this vehicle? ---- Keep the vehicle all Honda. Then there are no problems with warranties. If I saw a used Honda on the dealer's lot with after market parts installed on the vehicle, I would not consider this car for purchase. As far as I am concerned, it has lost the "Honda Quality"!

guodazhu · December 2003

I had my 2003 civic LX for two months. Most of the time, I was really satisfied with it. However, I had the same starting problem other guys discussed before. It happened 4 or 5 times in such a short time. I could not even start the car yesterday.
Does anyone know how to fix this problem or maybe we can organize to settle it down?

BTW: if I install an alarm keyless system by myself, will I breake the warrenty for those wires and parts I will work on?

Thanks!

ncampbell2002 · December 2003

You say that you should not use aftermarket parts on a vehicle. Well you said you use that Marvel Oil in your fuel which is an aftermarket lubricant. It is certainly not endorsed or recommended by Honda so in a way according to your statement, your vehicles have lost that "Honda quality". I mean do you have any proof in independent testing other than the company that makes this stuff or anything that this oil actually helps the vehicle? How do you know that its really shortening the life of the vehicle's engine? To me, that oil sounds like something you would buy on TV that has the slogan, "guaranteed to work or your money back." If I am wrong tell me, but you said in your previous posts that you generally don't keep your cars much over 100,000 miles. What happens to that engine when the odometer rolls 150,000, 200,000? You said you don't use a lot of that oil in your fuel, but how do you know that stuff isn't building up deposits over time? Bottom line, you probably disagree with everything I said, but I disagree with you when you say anything aftermarket will destroy the Honda quality. I have a few things done to my Honda but nothing that would destroy the vital components of the car.

samj · December 2003

When I bought my 03 EX Coupe, I bought the Honda Fog Kit, among other OEM accessories. I initially considered buying the Honda Fog Kit through dealers that sell OEM accessories at fraction of the in-store walk in price, and installing it myself. But the brochure stated that the 3year/36K mile factory warranty would apply only if installed by the dealer at the time of purchase. I figured the warranty and having somebody else install the fog kit would be worth the extra expense.

As for the fog lamp itself, it looks great on the car. But in terms of added visibility, I don't know if it's because the dealer didn't aim it properly or poor design, visibility isn't increased dramatically.

As for the alarm, I initially requested OEM alarm. But I went with the "KARR" alarm learning that the OEM doesn't have a shock sensor, and that the aftermarket alarm would be warrantied by the dealer while in it's factory warranty period. I also had concerns about the aftermarket alarm voiding the factory warranty. Fortunately, I haven't mechanical problems with the alarm. The only problem with the aftermarket alarm was figuring about the various features and programming it. OEM is simpler.

BTW: Be careful about the dealer charging you unreasonable extra labor for installing the fog light switch. The fog kit doesn't include the switch. My dealer initially wanted couple hundred to install the light itself, and another couple to install the $20 switch that fits by the lighter. After consulting with their service dept, the sales people came to their senses and did not charge me the extra labor.

gregoryc1 · December 2003

There is a "big difference" between using a small amount of lubricant in the fuel of a vehicle, and installing an aftermarket alarm system into the existing wiring of an automobile. On the other side of the issue, each individual must make up their own mind about the use of any product. I trade my vehicles at 100,000 miles because I do not want to own a vehicle without an extended warranty. I do not want to expose myself to the possibility of a major repair,(trans, engine, computer --etc).I will probably have 100,000 miles on the 2003 Accord in 2008, and on the 2004 Civic in 2009 or 2010.--I can't wait to see what the new vehicles will look like at that time!--- We might be driving all electric cars, or cars using 100% alcohol. Then the police can give the car a DWI ticket. ---- Just my opinion.----Greg

snarks · December 2003

I totally agree with Greg on alarm systems. They can introduce nightmare problems with electrical problems if the "wing nuts" who install them cut wires. These problems are not immediate but four or five years down the road when the installer is long out of business. If the alarm plugs into the factory wiring its one thing but cutting the cruicial wiring of a vehicle including ignition wire etc is just poor.

With regards to fog lights this is quite minor and OEM is a rip off. OEM or non OEM they make so little difference in my opinion over a spectrum of a cars I have driven. Go non-OEM so you don't flush money down the toilet.

gregoryc1 · December 2003

If you go with aftermarket fog lights, isolate them from the electrical system of the vehicle when they are installed. Should a problem occur at a later date, the installation did not compromise the vehicle's wiring. It would be easy to trouble shoot and repair! ---Just my opinion. ----Greg

celica115 · December 2003

"As for the alarm, I initially requested OEM alarm. But I went with the "KARR" alarm learning that the OEM doesn't have a shock sensor."

My OEM alarm has shock sensor and even the hook. Dealer dose professional job but pricy.

jwf1 · December 2003

Car is a 93 Honda Civic EX Sedan 1.6 with 198,000 miles.
Volume of air coming from AC/Heater vents is very low.
Have changed the blower fan with minimal improvement. Had dealer "clean" the vents with no improvement. Dealer said sometimes mice build their nests in the vents (interesting theory, but no improvement).
Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks

dudka · December 2003

" 2593 of 2593 Weak air volume from 93 Honda Civic AC/Heater Vents by jwf1 Dec 28, 2003 (9:09 pm)
Car is a 93 Honda Civic EX Sedan 1.6 with 198,000 miles.
Volume of air coming from AC/Heater vents is very low.
Have changed the blower fan with minimal improvement. Had dealer "clean" the vents with no improvement. Dealer said sometimes mice build their nests in the vents (interesting theory, but no improvement).
Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks "

It is interesting that your dealer said that. I have been finding empty akorn shells in my car. As if a squirrel ate them and let the shells behind in the car. I can not figure out how would a squirrel get into the vehicle with a mouthfull of akorns and then get out. Is it possible that there is a hole somewhere? I checked the cabin filter, and it is intact.

JWF1, I would suspect a dirty cabin filter, but 93 did not have a cabin filter as far as I know. If you have vaccum controls as opposed to digital on the 96 and up civics, maybe the flap is not open all the way and defletc the air flow to "feet" instead of "face" or what not.

debs4 · December 2003

guodazhu - Are you able to boost your car?

I can't even do that I've had to get mine towed twice in 2 weeks because it won't start and won't boost.

Honda denies that there are any problems with the Civics although I've been told by a mechanic that specializes in Honda that the newer models are nothing but problems. I had a 2002 last winter that did the same thing. They replaced it with the 2003 and everything was fine until the cold weather began again and now I'm having the same starting problems with this one.

Where are you located? Is it cold? My dealership told me that's why my car won't start. The temperature has been around -5 to -10 Celsius each of the 3 times this has happened.

Are there many other people this is happening to?

ab2hp · December 2003

Hi,
I am getting my 'check engine light' ON whenever I start my 1992 CIVIC hatch back. I also noticed that the car stalls due to reduced power.
I had been to the Honda repair centre and learnt that the rotor is wobbling and needs a $600- replacement.
Can any one suggest me a solution?

Hewlet.

snarks · December 2003

If the rotor is within the distributor this would cause a check engine light and is fairly common. Do as they say replace the distributor (if its that). A check engine light is usually very easy to identify problem when they pull the code.

gregoryc1 · December 2003

I have been reading an automotive text book titled" ---- "Automotive Technology A Systems Approach". ---- It is a comprehensive book, and it is very informative. Here is a quote from this book with regards to the operation of a "Computer Command Control System" on vehicles. ---- "Ignition Timing is advanced as much as possible under all conditions"! ---- QUESTIONS: ---- Does this translate into the "on board computer" advancing the "engine timing" under hard acceleration to the point where the knock sensor detects an "engine knock", and then backing off the timing slightly to give maxium power? ---- If this is true, then burning 93 octane fuel as opposed to 86 octane fuel does have an advantage at WOT and / or hard acceleration. ---- What is your opinion?---- Do some Computer Command Control Systems have a built in advance limit, while others do not have a limit?

ncampbell2002 · December 2003

Like snarks said, it is probably the distributor. This is a VERY easy job to do yourself. Go to your local auto parts store and you can get the parts for under $50, (when I did it on my 95 I bought both the distributor and rotor). It took a matter of 10 minutes to swap the parts out. If you do it yourself it will save you at least $60 that the dealer will charge you in labor.

ncampbell2002 · December 2003

I had an 89 Honda Accord that was a handmedown from my dad when I first go my license. It had been sitting in the driveway for quite some time. Well anyhow I took it in to have the alternator replaced the 2nd day I had it. (Thanks a lot dad!!!) The alternator did last 225,000 miles. Anyhow I told the guy while he was at it to check out the rest of the car. He called me back and said there was about 20 acorns in the air filter. I still have no idea how they got there to this day. I am interested to see this has happenned to other people too.

lawdawgfl · December 2003

Let me first start by saying I know the Civic is not a racecar, and that is not why I am thinking about buying one (44 mpg is the reason). That being said, what kind of 0-60 does the Civic HX 5 speed have? I have looked online but cannot find anything, I know how slow my Xterra is and thought I could compare the two. I have not been able to test drive one yet due to the holiday schedule at work, being a cop at the holidays is very interesting. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can get to the dealer. Also why are there so many different invoice prices listed on different web sites for the civic? Where can I find an actual price? Thanks for the info.

snarks · December 2003

Some cars take advantage of premium fuel hence the recommendation to use it others do not. I don't think you can apply a single design concept to all vehicles as they may or may not fall into those parameters. The 1998 - 2002 V6 Honda Accord although they recommend 87 octane fuel can take advantage of premium and increase horsepower 10-15. This was stated by a Honda Engineer. However this is likely is not the case with other cars as a whole as stated by the engineer.

snarks · December 2003

I believe this is potentially the failure of the parts that spin the distributor and is more expensive as it requires a Honda part. It has happened to a few people I know with that particular vintage Civic. I remember parts/labor around $350-$400 from an independant mechanic. But of course the person only stated rotor cryptically and this could be the brakes for all we know.

theracoon · December 2003

Beware of 2002 models if you don't like moldy carpet smell and frost on the inside of your windows in the winter.

I'm sorry you had so many problems, but the dealer scratching your paint and the windshield breaking aren't Honda's fault. We have a 2002 Civic LX Coupe with over 20,000 miles and have had no problems at all, including other than normal fogging of the windows which all vehicles do here in Indiana.

chalupny · December 2003

Yeah, I guess you'll get a lemon every once in a while with any make. I've got just over 11,000 miles on my 2002 Civic LX 5-speed. I have not had a single thing go wrong with this car yet. It has had the recommended 5000 and 10000 mile service - other than that it has not needed to go back to the dealer. I've been pretty lucky with the cars I've owned - I take pretty good care of them. Every other car I've ever owned had at least some minor problems during the warranty period - nothing major but you would point it out when you took the car in for scheduled service. With this Civic I've had nothing. Hope it keeps going strong - I plan to drive it for another 5 or 6 years and then give it to my son. By then it will only have about 50,000 to 60,000 miles on it - so I will expect my son will drive it for several years more. If it works out that way it will have been worth every penny I paid for it.

theracoon · December 2003

You missed the point. They NEVER fixed the leak . Do you work for Honda or are you damage control consultant?

No I didn't. I'll say it again. I'm sorry you had so many problems.

Honda, the automobile manufacturer, is not responsible for damage to your vehicle caused by your Honda dealer. If the dealer was unable to fix the leak did you contact the Honda regional office at the phone number listed in the owner's manual to get Honda involved? Did you contact your state attorney general's office? I belive here in Indiana that the "lemon laws" require that a dealer take back or replace any vehicle that's been in for the same repair three or more times without being fixed. Your state may be, and probably is, different. And no, I'm not a lawyer so this isn't legal advice.

The rest of my post was to disagree with what you were suggesting, that all 2002 Civic's have a problem. My experience with my 2002 Civic has been completely different. And to answer your other question, No I don't work for Honda or any company affiliated with Honda.

Should I assume you work for Ford, since you're here telling us about your new F-150?

Take a deep breath and relax. No one was denying that you had a problem with your 2002 Civic. We were disagreeing with your assumption that all 2002 Civic's had problems.

JM2C

mjm329 · December 2003

I have a 2001 Honda Civic. The SRS light came on the other day and I brought it to the dealer. They told me that it's a computer system failure and it has to be replaced. The extended warrantee will not cover this problem and it's going to cost about $500 to replace. I'm worried I'm getting ripped off by the dealer. Has anyone else had a similar problem? What should I do?

snarks · January 2004

You sell a 300,000 - 400,000 cars there are bound to be bad ones in the bunch. The real question really is not if its going to happen but how the car company deals with the issue.

Sounds like a string of bad luck on your end.

bjf111 · January 2004

Honda Del Sol, while traveling on interstate, intermittently checking my gauges, everything is fine, then to my astonishment my temperature ZOOMS to overheat within 10 seconds.I stop, wait an hour or so , start the motor again, add coolant which had blown out. By slowly trickling it in while the engine is running. Stopped for the night. For the next 3 months - no problems. Again, traveling on the interstate, this time not noticing the heat gauge, I noticed that "CHECK ENGINE" light came on and the overheat was at the max.Once again, I trickled in coolant. This time it appeared that the coolant was coming out the exhaust.There is no coolant in the oil - the oil is clear.I have three questions:
1. What would make the temp. rise very rapidly without warning?
2. When engine has over heated the fan works intermittently. When engine is running at normal temperature, fan acts normal. Is the overheating causing the fan to operate incorrectly?
3. What will go first - the gasket or the head cracking, which is allowing the coolant to go through the exhaust system?

The engine still runs but loses coolant.

bjf111 · January 2004

Honda Civic XL 1996:Automobile runs smooth, seems to have no problem. Stopped using the car for about a month. When next started the motor, ran smooth until it came up to operating temperature, then dropping to normal idle it kicks back up to fast idle and keeps repeating this continuously. Went for 200 mi. drive, idle returned to normal.Laid up the car for two weeks, idle returned to being erratic.This time "CHECK ENGINE" light came on.Checked oil -ok; checked coolant - ok; temperature - ok. Question:
1. Can I make 200 mile trip with "check engine" light on? Any ideas about my problem with the idle?

geo2004 · January 2004

came on after owning our 96 Accord wagon for about 4 years. It was not under warranty and a repair was needed. Honda said if we did not fix it, we would never know whether the SRS system was working or not. I can't remember the exact cost, but it was extremely expensive, several hundred dollars. We "bit the bullet" and paid for the repair. What made it a little easier to take was that was the only thing that ever really went wrong with the car; it's been basically trouble free. We have 148,500 miles on it. The check engine light recently came on and we're told a new catalytic converter is needed. tomorrow I'm bringing it in for that repair; it's under warranty until 150,000 miles. I'm told we may have to pay about $100. While I'm there, I want to check out the 04 si.

auburn63 · January 2004

instant overheating
unfortunatly this sounds as if you have a bad head gasket. But the best thing to do is to have the car presure tested to be sure as it could be a sticky thermostat or radiator problem also..

SRS Light
Do you know what code it was giving? If it was a power failure code you maybe able to reset the srs control unit and as long as the cars battery is strong it may stay away. In any case unless you have alot of miles on it I would also try speaking with CR or the zone rep to see if they could help you..If you know the code I could try and help more..

Erratic idle
Most likely a sticky fast idle valve or a bad idle air control valve. As for driving it as long as the check engine light is not flashing you can drive it with no harm being done..

jb97 · January 2004

I have a 90 CRX Si with 110K miles on it. Over the past year when you start it, it sometimes just dies immediately and after you crank it a couple more times it will start. It has done this going down the road as well where the tach goes right to zero. I took it to the dealership and they couldnt get it to act up at all. I did have the ignitor changed 6 months ago and i thought this solved the problem but its back. Do i have an ignition switch that is bad and making contact only 98% of the time. Help?!?

venky1111 · January 2004

I have 2000 Honda Civic with 33K miles (manual tranmission). Honda Dealer changed the Transmission fluid and spark plugs at 30K. (That is the only service I got from Honda. I got the air filter and Oil changed by Firestone). For the past 4000  5000 Miles, Ive noticed something strange. When the car is not warmed up fully, when I step off the gas to change the gears, I feel a jerk in the tranmission (or the engine) not sure. This also need not be necessarily associated with gear change. When I take my foot off the gas pedal within the same gear, this happens.
This happens even at highway speeds and till maybe even 6-7 miles of driving. Any experience with this?

celica115 · January 2004

Why don't you just wait and let the car warm up fully? I think it is from the clutch. My WRX dose that every morning when it is cold.

mattpdx · January 2004

Hi-

I had to slam my brakes on the other night due to an idiot with no working rear break lights. There was the gawdawful thunk thunk thunk noise...I HOPE it was my ABS working. I've never actually heard them engage before. It felt like the brakes were pumping very quickly to stop me. I figured it was the right thing to do...stomp and steer just like the manual tells you to do. I'm just worried that it could have caused damage. I hear no nasty noise from my brakes or rotors since. Should I have them inspected?

Thanks!

MattPDX

wazappa · January 2004

I am sure that would have been the ABS in action. No damage was done.

lazy3 · January 2004

My 94 Civic DX has 92000 miles and one flaw...road noise. I have always used cheap tires...but would like to quiet the old girl down when she turns 10. Would appreciate anyone's success story regarding quiet tires. Am also wondering when to expect to need replacement struts and how to tell if mine are going bad

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions