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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • claokclaok Member Posts: 1
    my '99 civic is off-and-on having problems starting. at certain points (mostly during the day) the car will start fine. after dark falls, however, the crank sounds sluggish and has a hard time turning over and getting the car to start. My question is, is this most likely a battery problem or an alternator?
    thanks
  • civegracivegra Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys, I own an auto 89 Honda Civic LX and I'm having problems with the engine shutting off at idle. It doesn't happen right away only after an hour or so of driving. If I've been driving for a while and come to a stop light the engine will shake, something it doesn't do up until the hour of driving and the rpms will slowly drop until it cuts off. Sometimes the engines stops shaking and the rpm goes back up to 1.

    When this started to happen I changed the spark plugs and the airfilter but it still continues. I even took it to a shop and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with the engine. Before I took it to another shop that'll probably cost me $55 just to have it looked at I would like to hear your opinions first, thanks.
  • williamrwilliamr Member Posts: 3
    In the market for a new economy car. Like the Japanese better than USA made. So am looking at Honda Civic VP or Toyota Corrolla. Always thought the Honda was a little better, but MSN Autos says Honda Civic in the past has had "Significant" problems with the second gear clutch in the automatic transmission and quoted a real high repair price tag.

    Has Honda solved this problem in the 2005 Civic?

    Thanks
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Pure rubbish. I've NEVER heard of this. there was no "problem" to solve. Just ask any Honda Technician.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    This of course doesn't mean that statistical anomolies do not happen, but I would say no. Not only that, if it was a common problem, you would find a TSB or at worst a secret warranty on it

    In 2004/2005 time frame, the two you are looking at were on my top choice list. In terms of maintenance it would have been far easier for me to go with the Corolla as 1. the Toyota dealer is far closer 2. I have a 15 year plus relationship with a high quality local dealer maintenance section. The Honda won out on performance and handling AND much cheaper price. Also the Honda dealer that I would go is reputed to be the best of 5/6 in the area. I have close to 12k miles and all I have had to do is change the oil at 10k miles. ( other normal maintenance but I don't want to bore you)
  • dstoddarddstoddard Member Posts: 1
    my top leaks quite badly at the driver side windshield post. Also the top "rattles", like the gasketing maybe deteriorated. how and who do i get this fixed? Am i doomed to the dealership cash cow? Any info, advise appreciated!! thanks in advance, don
  • diana6diana6 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 2000 Honda Civic with 21,000 miles on it. I took it in for a oil change and I was told that it needs some major repairs. It needs Rear Trailing Arm Bushings, Timing Belt with outer belts and a fuel sys service. Does this sound right for a 5 year car or is someone trying to rip me off?
  • mautomauto Member Posts: 75
    I can hear a big sucking sound coming from your wallet. See earlier posts about timing belt. Fuel system "service" sounds like a joke. I had a 97 Civic and it did have creaky rear trailing arm bushings that sounded horrible when backing up over a bump such as a curb, but other than that sound, never was a problem. I'd get a second opinion about these services from a reputable mechanic, not an oil change place (if that's where you went).
  • tac147tac147 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1997 Civic EX and all locks in the doors except the driver door have stopped working. The remote still locks/unlocks the driver door, but every other lock needs to be worked manually even if I use the door switch. Has anyone run into this before?
  • lsnidermanlsniderman Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I have an odd problem that has developed in the past six months. I have a 1995 Del Sol that has been collecting water somewhere in the car (esp. when it rains). It has resulted in both a continuous bad moldy smell while I'm in the car, too much condensation affecting the defrost in the winter, and dampness particularly in the front passenger side of the floor (primarily). I can hear a sloshing noise similar to water in a bathtub every time I go around corners with the car. My boyfriend and I took most of the car apart from the bottom up. We identified the drain tubes going into and through the trunk were clogged and flushed water through-we also noted the direction of the drainage and adjusted it to flow out of the car and not into the floor, as was the initial direction of drainage. We inspected visually all the frame walls and spare tire wall and did not see any pooled water. Any thoughts on what we could do next? The slosh just continues...
    Thanks. Any help much appreciated.
  • soypicaflorsoypicaflor Member Posts: 5
    My civic has this kind of clicking voice like it is valves problems but they aren't it's been like that for years, everytime I go in first gear you wont hear it until it goes to 2000 rmps or if I go slow on 10mph wiht my foot in the gas, sometimes dont do it at all, on second gear the samething, on third gear is where does it must then all gears and but there are time when dont do it, fourth gear almust never, on fifth not. It has 130,000 miles it runs well never left me on the road, I am not sure if it is the water pump, oil pump, timing belt looks good, if that would it been the case the I wouldn't have engine by now, Pistons and valves the car would it gone by now too, sometimes I race it and do not have any bad engine simptoms. Like a said before the car goes with that noice for more then 3 years, took it to the dealer and said has nothing wrong. Please let me know if someone can help..Thank you.
  • soypicaflorsoypicaflor Member Posts: 5
    Andrew9.. how do you know is the transmission? I am asking because my car has the samething when I got it new back on 1997 after a year started doing that litle noise, now has 8 years and the noice is noticable but only when I shift from fist to third on fourth almust never. But the car runs well.
  • delsolmomdelsolmom Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply - There is a suspicion that when they replaced the radiator the mechanic failed to exercise due care and as a result I got an air pocket in the system which resulted in the overheating - She's been running super since - Im still a nervous nelly but Im keeping a close eye on her.

    Thanks Again :shades:
  • michael19michael19 Member Posts: 2
    My 96 civic with only 40K miles will not start. It has spark, timing belt is intact, turns over OK. I suspect a relay causing no fuel. Which is the most likely relay; the main relay or another one. Which other relays will allow spark with no starting. Problem is I had the car towed to a repair shop and after three days of not starting at home, it started right up so I am stuck about what to do.
  • hondafreak2hondafreak2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Everyone:

    My engine has been heating up when I hit 3500 rpm at 80mph, the heat indicator goes almost to the H zone. Are the fans suppose to be idle when the engine is on? Is it an electrical problem to fix?

    Thanks for your advice.
  • andrew9andrew9 Member Posts: 4
    After checking out the noise more, I've realized that it is coming from the engine. I think it is the engine because I can hear the noise if I leave the car in neutral and rev the engine. It is not an overbearing sound but it is definetely there. I decided to have a tech check it out at the dealership and he told me that the sound is normal for civics and he thinks that it is coming from the timing belt. He said that the timing belt tension may be a little bit on the tight side of the accdeptable tolerance but he thinks it is better to leave it than open up the engine and adjust it. Does anyone else who owns a civic experience this? As soypicaflor said my car does run well but I cant stop thinking about wether or not this is normal for a new car to be making a whinning noise. (it almost sounds like a little supercharger spinning or something)
  • wildicemanwildiceman Member Posts: 1
    sounds like its coming from ur heater core located behind the glove box inside the dash board...most likely clogged ...cheap way to fix it is try to flush ur system see if it breaks loose. walmart sells a kit to do it urself for like 5 bucks use with a water hose.. if that fails then u will need to replace it which is a pain..if u do it urself make sure to put the hoses back in the right place ..one is return from the radiator and other goes into the water pump cross em and might blow the head gasket from overheating..hope this is helpfull :D
  • hondafreak2hondafreak2 Member Posts: 3
    hello everyone:

    I was driving at 80 miles at 3500 rpm on the highway and noticed the heating gauge rising up to close to the red zone, so I switched lanes and slowed the car to 65 mph, the temp immediately went back to the half way mark.

    At the end of my 250 mile day of driving, the coolant reservoir was empty even though I filled it to the brim before my trip.

    Is it a problem becuase I added 1 qt of a lubricant that is suppose to better lubricate your engine?

    Please help!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi Everyone:

    My engine has been heating up when I hit 3500 rpm at 80mph, the heat indicator goes almost to the H zone. Are the fans suppose to be idle when the engine is on? Is it an electrical problem to fix?

    Thanks for your advice.

    There should be ample air flow at 80 mph that your would not need your fans to come on. The fan only come on when needed and then shut off. Sounds like you may be low on coolant, blockage, or flow problems with the pump.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    hello everyone:

    I was driving at 80 miles at 3500 rpm on the highway and noticed the heating gauge rising up to close to the red zone, so I switched lanes and slowed the car to 65 mph, the temp immediately went back to the half way mark.

    At the end of my 250 mile day of driving, the coolant reservoir was empty even though I filled it to the brim before my trip.

    Is it a problem becuase I added 1 qt of a lubricant that is suppose to better lubricate your engine?

    Please help!

    One should not be related to the other, unless you poured the lubricant into the radiator.
    If you are loosing collant, you have a leak some where. Fill the radiator to the brim with Distilled water, and fill the reservouir to the upper mark. Drive around like you normally do, preidically checking the reservuoir (when engine is hot). If it goes dry, you have a leak. Start looking for puddles under the car (don't confuse that with a/c drip). The puddles should be green (if you have any antifreeze left). Chances are you have a hole in the radiator, but it could be worse. IF you get white smoke on start up in the morning, it could be head gasket, or punctured passage (from having low glycol ratio in the winter).
  • soypicaflorsoypicaflor Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your tip andrew9, I'll check the belt tensioner, I know is coming from the engine but at the sametime kind of comefuse me becuase it looks like is coming from the trans. but then consentratin on the engine comes from the engine, I was told to change the timing belt, and since I need to go to canada the held with it change time.. Good bless you.. compai = ( budy ) in spanish lol.
  • dead9uydead9uy Member Posts: 6
    My 97 DX has 154K miles and I've noticed over the last year or so that it tends to be at least a quart low on oil when I check it, usually ever 3-4 weeks. There is no smoke, smell or oil drips on the ground. Is this just typical of a car with high miles?
  • lsnidermanlsniderman Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out and get back to u to letya know if that was the problem...
    lis
  • iamadorkiamadork Member Posts: 3
    Ok—so I’ve read the internet and diagnosed my 104,000 miles ’98 Honda Civic DX’s problem as “bad input shaft bearings,” (may also be called a main shaft bearing). After it’s been parked for a while (more than a hour or so) and I crank it, have it in neutral then release the clutch, I hear a very expensive noise. After about 2 min., the noise goes away. If I engage the clutch pedal (before the first 2 min. is up), the noise goes away.

    The car was bought ‘for’ me by someone less informed than I. My questions are: do y’all have ANY idea how much repairing this problem might cost me? How long can I wait to get this fixed—if I wait longer is it likely gonna cost me more?
    Other than that—the transmission seems fine (it’s not sticky or slipping—much better than other car makes I’ve driven).

    PS—thanks SO MUCH for the ‘Shift points’ info (now I even know what to call it!)—much obliged!!
  • seano9seano9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, i drive a 1992 honda civic si hatchback. On the back window i see their is a plug where i can put a little handle that i have seen on other hatchbacks. Unfortunatley i cant find what year or model these handles were put on. I talked to a local dealership and they were not sure either. So if anyone knows what year and model i can find these on so i can oder one please let me know. Thanks.
  • danf5danf5 Member Posts: 38
    I ran an '84 Civic S to 288k miles, a '91 Integra GS to 415k, and had a '98 GSR stolen at 180 k. At 180k, none of them used as much as a quart in 7,500 miles. Just now, my wife's '99 Civic EX is at about 70k and my '04 EX is nearing 80k. Neither needs to have oil added between changes.

    Your experience doesn't match mine at all.
  • disneydelsoldisneydelsol Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for responding to my question. I didn't think it was the gas in the gas tank because I never noticed it before 6 months ago. I did check the carpets in the trunk and inside the car for moisture, however they are dry. I am thinking that my problem is with the windshield seals. I have not replaced my windshield, but my windshield seal does have a gap. I can't find the water visually.
  • disneydelsoldisneydelsol Member Posts: 4
    Hello! I have another issue with my del sol. I just love my car too much to give up on it. I have taken my car in twice now to the auto mechanic for various reasons. Both times, I have told them that I hear a metal scraping sound from the right rear. The mechanics tell me that they never hear the problem, which could be true, since it doesn't always do it. They also have told me that they have taken apart the area and can not see anything wrong with it. It started to make the sound when I went over speed bumps. Then when I pushed on the break it would stop. Now it happens more frequently and pushing on the break doesn't stop it any more. It doesn't do it all the time, wet or dry doesn't seem to matter. I just had my axles replaced. Any suggestions?
  • maz1120maz1120 Member Posts: 3
    Mike, ask your mechanic about a crank-sensor wire. Your problem sounds similar to something I had. I had a timing belt changed last year and turned out the crank-sensor wire wasn't secured properly. Over time the timing belt wore through the crank-sensor wire. Once this sensor starts acting up, there is nothing to tell the computer there is enough air/fuel mixture in the chamber to fire the plugs to crank the engine. So what happens is the valve chamber over fills with fuel and floods the plugs. Basically flooding the engine and it will never start. Hope this helps.
  • maz1120maz1120 Member Posts: 3
  • maz1120maz1120 Member Posts: 3
    Does the noise go away when you push the clutch in? If so, then it sounds like a clutch bearing problem which basically means your clutch is shot. The spinning noise you hear is the clutch bearing spinning because the teeth are worn. Once you push the clutch in, the pressure plate engages the clutch disk which stops the spinning and disengages from the trans so you can shift, once the clutch is released, the process reverses and everything is spinning freely again. To tell you the truth, I've yet to fix mine, it's a little annoying but I don't feel like putting another clutch in quite yet. I think a stock Honda clutch should only run you about 2-300 hundred labor included.
  • soypicaflorsoypicaflor Member Posts: 5
    Tell me MAZ1120.. If it is the clutch bearings the problem would you have any idea how long the clutch would last, I had mine for about 6 years like that and still running without probles just the noice, and yes when I push the cutch in the noice goes away. but within the time the noice goes louder, at the sametime the noice I won't hear it but when I driving for about 20 mintus comes back...I'll have the clutch check. Thanks for the second tip.
  • soypicaflorsoypicaflor Member Posts: 5
    maz1120... tell me I when and check racin clutch for my civic, what I need the bearings would be this what they sai in this?.....eCLUTCHMASTER STAGE I STREET ORGANIC® Racing Clutch Kit (**The throwout bearing and pilot bearing included. )
  • poetesslisapoetesslisa Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 99 Honda Civic CX hatchback with 79,000 miles. The car has been good to me for 5 years and now all of a sudden the "Check Emissions" light came on. Not the "Check Engine" but "Check Emissions"....it was at Napa Auto for 4 days while they were trying to diagnose the problem. First they thought it was a problem with the computer, then the wiring, finally they replaced the O2 sensor and gave me the car back. 4 days later the "Check Emissions" light is on again. The car also feels like it's going to stall at stop lights. I'm at my wits end with this car now! I just want to get it fixed!! I'm bringing it back to the shop again today so hopefully it will not take another 4 days to find out what the problem is and fix it. Is this car even worth it anymore? I was thinking of purchasing a new Civic coupe but after reading all the posts on this message board it seems like things are rough all over. Any suggestions or other experiences would be super helpful! :cry:
  • weeziweezi Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 1985 Honda Civic Wagon two months ago. The car has low mileage 101,000. My temp gauge went all the way to top last weekend. I pulled over immediately, so the car did not overheat, but the engine was very hot. I let the car sit for a while before I started engine. It started out cool, but guage eventually climbed to the top after 30 minutes.I had the car checked, and had to replace the Radiator Cap, Thermostat , Electrical Motor Fan, and had the radiator flushed. The mechanic checked the sensor and water pump which was fine. I am now driving the car, but temp gauge stays in the middle and sometimes it goes over the half way mark, but comes back to the middle. Should I be concerned? The temp gauge started acting up when the weather started to get real hot.
  • daniraindanirain Member Posts: 1
    My husband rear ended someone in our 97 Honda Civic. It sustained minor front end damage that we had repaired. But now the Speedometer is not working. It just bounces around instead of reading the speed. We were told it might be the Speed Sensor Assembly unit, so my husband replaced it. Well that did not fix the problem. Any ideas??? Thanks! ~Dani
  • cbdcbd Member Posts: 1
    Folks - newbie to this board looking for help to fix my daughters 1976 Hondamatic (civic). Her indicators don't flash any more! They come on and stay illuminated but don't actually flash on and off as they should. The hazard warning system works perfectly and usually the indicators will work for a few flashes after the hazard warner has been on but then they just stay on.

    I have checked and cleaned the switch on the steering wheel, checked the fuses, replace the little unit that does the actual switching all to no avail. All the bulbs appear to be ok although when the indicators are flashing the oild/generator lights on the dash do pulse.

    Can any one help please?

    Cheers

    Chris :blush:
  • bluearmbluearm Member Posts: 6
    I bought a 98 honda civic hatchback dx automatic two weeks ago. I like it,but the only disappointment i have is the MPG i got only 24 mpg :cry: . which i thought i would get 30 mpg or more! any suggestions to improve my gas mileage?! :confuse:
  • greenzengreenzen Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    How to can I replace a radiator on a 91 civic dx hb? I bought the radiator and the haynes manual but the manual illustrates an earlier model, probably an '88 civic instead of a 91 civic.

    thanks. :)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    No differences between an 88 and a 91.

    It's a pretty straightforward job that shouldn't require a manual.
  • akunlistedakunlisted Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Honda Civic LX with 87K and have noticed that the gas pedal seems to stick when pressed after being completely released. I just purchased this car from an older couple who have done all the scheduled maintanences but couldn't tell me how long this has been going on. The problem is most noticeable when starting from a complete stop and makes a smooth start almost impossible. There doesn't seem to be any resistance to pedal movement the pedal is pressed with the engine off. I haven't looked at the throttle cable yet and figured I would see if anyone had ideas on what might be happening. I am no mechanic but did have a 1983 Porsche 944 for many years and so picked up some knowledge from its frequent breakdowns (it was a fun but frustrating time in my life). Any advice would be helpful as I am a student and would rather do as many repairs myself. Thank you for your help.

    Johannes
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Clean the throttle body. Remove the air intake ducting, have someone hold the throttle wide open, spray in a liberal amount of air intake cleaner (NOT carb cleaner), scrub the throttle body bore and throttle plate including the back side with an old toothbrush, clean out the residue with clean rags, done deal.
  • akunlistedakunlisted Member Posts: 2
    Can do, thanks for the advice. I'll let you know when it works.

    Johannes
  • stanbam3stanbam3 Member Posts: 6
    If the tailpipe is black after you wipe it immaculately clean...your valves are too tight, the pinging is do to the newer fuels which your ( and my 92 VX) have a hard time running on...even with premium.
    Most mechanics are have fisted but Hondas require a delicate hand in valve tightening. Been there.
    Good luck!
    I use ETHOS, www.dieselsmoke.com and get great results but with the introduction of MTBE's...gasoline is as good as dishwater in my Civic.

    Peace
    Stan
  • cwarfordcwarford Member Posts: 1
    Question about Canadian 5MT 04 Civic SI Sedan (28000km) from mechanically challenged...

    Sometimes when shifting gears, with the clutch fully depressed, the shift lever almost seems "eager" to come out of gear. I can't seem to replicate problem on demand (ie rides with service tech). It doesn't happen all the time or always in the same manner but is most common when shifting in the first three gears, and most often with the RPMs above 3500.

    A normal shift (to me) involves depressing the clutch, physically moving the lever out of gear (ie 1st), moving through neutral, and into gear (ie 2nd). This involves a very precise mechanical feeling of the transmission being moved from gear to gear.

    The shift I am trying to describe involves depressing the clutch, at this point instead of me moving from 1st through neutral to 2nd the shifter almost seems to be moving itself out of gear while I am moving it out of gear into neutral.

    I am not saying that the car pops out of gear but that it almost seems to "help" me shift it out of gear every once in a while.

    In response to my concerns I was told the techs were unable to replicate any problem, the car shifts like any other civic on the road, and we have a note here in your service record for you in case something comes up at a later date.

    Is this just something that happens with some shifts? This is my first manual in about 8 yrs and I am very curious.

    Thanks
    Charles
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi,

    I have a 99 Honda Civic CX hatchback with 79,000 miles. The car has been good to me for 5 years and now all of a sudden the "Check Emissions" light came on. Not the "Check Engine" but "Check Emissions"....it was at Napa Auto for 4 days while they were trying to diagnose the problem. First they thought it was a problem with the computer, then the wiring, finally they replaced the O2 sensor and gave me the car back. 4 days later the "Check Emissions" light is on again. The car also feels like it's going to stall at stop lights. I'm at my wits end with this car now! I just want to get it fixed!! I'm bringing it back to the shop again today so hopefully it will not take another 4 days to find out what the problem is and fix it. Is this car even worth it anymore? I was thinking of purchasing a new Civic coupe but after reading all the posts on this message board it seems like things are rough all over. Any suggestions or other experiences would be super helpful!

    It could be as simple as a gas cap, or evaporative charcoal canister. Time to get another mechanic, I think. See if there is an independant Honda shop.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I bought a 1985 Honda Civic Wagon two months ago. The car has low mileage 101,000. My temp gauge went all the way to top last weekend. I pulled over immediately, so the car did not overheat, but the engine was very hot. I let the car sit for a while before I started engine. It started out cool, but guage eventually climbed to the top after 30 minutes.I had the car checked, and had to replace the Radiator Cap, Thermostat , Electrical Motor Fan, and had the radiator flushed. The mechanic checked the sensor and water pump which was fine. I am now driving the car, but temp gauge stays in the middle and sometimes it goes over the half way mark, but comes back to the middle. Should I be concerned? The temp gauge started acting up when the weather started to get real hot.

    IT is normal for the gauge to fluctuate a little. As long as it does not go higher than the 3/4 of the way up, you should be fine. At 101,000 miles you should be looking at timing belt replacement soon, 120K, I think.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I bought a 98 honda civic hatchback dx automatic two weeks ago. I like it,but the only disappointment i have is the MPG i got only 24 mpg . which i thought i would get 30 mpg or more! any suggestions to improve my gas mileage?!

    Easy on the gas, do a complete tune up if it has not been done recently. Don't fall for the "magic" plugs, regular NGK's or Bosch platinum (if you are planning on keeping the car for another 100,000 miles) will do.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Question about Canadian 5MT 04 Civic SI Sedan (28000km) from mechanically challenged...

    Sometimes when shifting gears, with the clutch fully depressed, the shift lever almost seems "eager" to come out of gear. I can't seem to replicate problem on demand (ie rides with service tech). It doesn't happen all the time or always in the same manner but is most common when shifting in the first three gears, and most often with the RPMs above 3500.

    A normal shift (to me) involves depressing the clutch, physically moving the lever out of gear (ie 1st), moving through neutral, and into gear (ie 2nd). This involves a very precise mechanical feeling of the transmission being moved from gear to gear.

    The shift I am trying to describe involves depressing the clutch, at this point instead of me moving from 1st through neutral to 2nd the shifter almost seems to be moving itself out of gear while I am moving it out of gear into neutral.

    I am not saying that the car pops out of gear but that it almost seems to "help" me shift it out of gear every once in a while.

    In response to my concerns I was told the techs were unable to replicate any problem, the car shifts like any other civic on the road, and we have a note here in your service record for you in case something comes up at a later date.

    Is this just something that happens with some shifts? This is my first manual in about 8 yrs and I am very curious.

    Thanks
    Charles

    In Canada Si=EX in US. I wonder if your last manual car was a Honda. Honda manual's don;t require effort to shift, this is why they are the best manuals out there.
  • kramericakramerica Member Posts: 1
    I need to reset the engine light on my 96 Honda Civic Si. I replaced a faulty oxygen sensor and now I need to reset the light to turn it off. Does anyone know what the easiest way to do this is? I could take it back to my garage for a fee. They would clear the message light via computer. Is there a way to do this myself either by disconnecting the battery or by some other means? Any suggestions would be most appreciated...thanks...
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