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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
2.a. Hopefully you got a copy of the owners manual. There should be a section in it on all of the indicator lights, and what they mean, including why the D indicator would flash. Any code that was stored was lost when the battery was disconnected.
2.b. Honda has "grade logic" in the automatic transmissions, which controls shifting behavior. Disconnecting the battery returned the settings to the default.
3. The maintenance required light is mileage based and is supposed to remind you that a service is due. There should be a slot on the display near the light that you can insert a key in to that will reset that light until the next service interval.
4. Have it changed now, today. The price range you mentioned is reasonable.
If you don't have an Owners Manual for the car please get one and read it cover to cover. Your local Honda dealer should be able to order one for you, or you can order one from helminc.com.
Cold air blows in the morning - blows the afternoon but runs for about 5 minutes in the evening then the unit shuts off. If you check the harness it appears the compressor is getting no power at all. Mechanic has told me the cars computer may be acting up and need to have it analyzed.
I live in Florida - where no AC means pure hell.
1)The A/C is running
2)The Brake is depressed
3)The car moves from a low idle to a higher idle (I'm guessing to support the A/C?)
When turned off the A/C the squeak stops. It also does not happen if I don't have my foot on the break. I mainly notice it when I'm at a stop sign or waiting in line at a drive thru.
The closest thing I can liken the sound to is stepping on a dogs chew toy.
Anybody have an idea of what might be causing this and/or how I can remedy it?
My buddy told me to make sure I go somewhere that knows Hondas since they use a special ATF. I called the dealer and the service rep surprisingly suggested that I really only needed to have my ATF replaced rather than flushed. I asked her if I needed to worry about all the fluid left in the torque converter and she told me I probably wouldn't need a total flush until 90 or 100K miles. Any thoughts? Am I safe getting a drain/replace at a Lube Joint as long as they use Honda's ATF Z1?
700 miles on it.
PROBLEM: starting from the first day of driving.
whenever I remove my foot from the acceleration pedal (now matter gently or harsh), the car seems to slow down very quickly. it was slowing down by 10miles/hour in 8 seconds on the flat road. even if the car is going downhill, it still keep on slowing down but at a moderate rate. I felt that the engine was restrainging the car to roll ahead, which doesn't happen to any of the cars that I have ever driven. is this a problem? or this is something related to the engine-to-be-broken-in issue? Since this is the first brand new car I have, I really don't have any idea.
I filled the gas tank twice so far. did a little caculation, around 30mpg, far from the EPA rating 31/38. is this related to the engine preventing the car from rolling ahead? Please help me solve this puzzle. Thank you very much.
Why would you not be telling your Honda dealer to immediately resolve the problem under your new car warranty, instead of asking here on this forum? Surely, the factory-trained staff there can quickly provide you with a satisfactory resolution to your concerns.
Question 1) Is a TA and fast idle sensor the same thing? (if not, which one would be the most likely culprit?)
Question 2) What other cars have the same motor so I can pull the part off a salvage-it-yourself type yard?
I own a 96 civic VTi and I changed my battery about 6 months ago, these last few months my auto tranny has been playing up and last week it wont even shift to 4th gear from 3rd (70kph is like the highest i can go). My mechanic friend told me to take it into honda car service which i already booked, but then he also mentioned that it might have been that i changed the battery and that i need to reconfigure the computer inside the car? Would that sound right?
Also if it is the transmittion problem, i am looking at a worse case scenario of replacing it, however i know it would cost a whooping amount of money so i can anyone tell me if i replace the transmittion, how much guarantee can i get that it wont play up again??? Any reply would be great help thanks!
I am having a problem with my electrical system on my 2002 4 cyl honda civic.
The problem started slowly. At first the lights on the cruise control and rear defrost button would come and go. I didn't think to much of it at the time. The dealer told me that the bulbs were bad. I thought it may have been something else b/c sometimes they would work.
Then suddenly one day. The car was running fine. However, the SRS, ABS and battery lights would flash on and off. Then one day in the rain while using wipers, headlights, and my stereo, the electric came to a hault. Only to JUMP back on at full power and again the car ran fine.
I called the dealer and made an appointment. He told me it was most likely the alternator. I think their might be a bad sensor or a short somewhere.
Then the today i wouldn't start. Then with a jump it started fine and ran. However the lights were still flashing on the dash. Then about 20 miles later the battery began to "steam" and "bubble" as if it were overheated. Also the battery is making a terrible smell. This just happened today so I haven't been able to tell the Honda people yet.
Have you ever heard of anything like this?
Your help is much appreciated!
My question is, is this covered under warranty??? Will it cost anything to have this fixed?
thanks in advance
I would be interested, but since it is AUTO, $1000 is probably the best you can get. It is not a collector's car, but more of an enthusiast car, and what enthusiast would want some mechanical thing tell him/her when to shift?
Could it be bad motor mounts.
Thanks
You didn't say where the rattling comes from so it's hard to make suggestions as to what might be making noise. Or do you mean it vibrates?
And where are you racing your Civic, since 90 MPH on the US highways is not only illegal but unsafe? (hopefully you don't live anywhere near me!).
The car would juss cut off in about a block or two. then after a few trys...it'd start again...go another block or two...maybe three....Then juss cut off.
In the US there was an ignition switch recall that may be the cause of the problem. I know you said kilometers, so you're not in the US, but there may be a similar recall in your country. The US recall said, in part:
ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence:
WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING
Good luck.
My question is, is this covered under warranty??? Will it cost anything to have this fixed?
Unless you noticed the paint chip when you picked up the car and pointed it out to the dealer as something that need to be fixed it probably won't be covered by warranty. If it wasn't there when you bought the car, or you didn't notice that it was there, it may have been caused by road debris or someone opening a door into your new car in a parking lot.
The only thing to do is talk to the dealer. They may help you out, but you probably are going to have to pay to have it fixed.
Sorry.
Thanks for your help this far,
Julius
If your Owner's Manual's Maintenance Schedule specifies flushing (which it probably does not) than go with it. Otherwise, following Honda's (the manufacturer's) schedules is all you should do. Don't pay attention to local shops who are trying to sell unnecessary services at your expense.
Did you or chanel5 ever have any luck with this problem? Or heard from someone that did?
Thanks,
Lance
The noise never came back, but that was a scare at the time. Strange.
Upon arrival, the tow truck guy said that the alternator needed to be changed. When at Honda, they confirmed it. They changed it and sent me off -- things appeared fine. I went to the store, started the car again, and drove the 4 miles home. When I went to park the car, the light came on again (please note I had my lights on since it was night time, the air conditioner pn since its summer and hot, and the radio). I called Honda again and they told me that maybe the battery should be replaced (even though it tested 100% at the shop and i was already at the shop for 2 hours). Have you heard of this happening? I have only had my car for 2 years! I dont know whats going on. They seem to not be saying anything about the ABS system -- which is strange to me since that is the light that is turning on. and the car is dead again and must be towed there tomorrow. any advice, thoughts would be appreciated as I am freaking out. Will the change in battery be under warranty? is this even the problem????
Have your brakes checked.
The ignition switch has two major components. The lock and the electrical switch. The switch part is what the dealer replaces. You will still be able to use the same keys. (and yes, I know my description of the ignition switch is somewhat simplistic). Since it's a recall contact your Honda dealer to confirm that the recall covers your vehicle and then schedule an appointment to have it fixed for free.
Good luck.
EPA ratings have always been a joke. They are unrealistic, in that they are based upon indoor testing on a dynamometer. There are no headwinds, hills, stoplights, etc. You may want to read some of the comments here:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=EPA+mileage+testing+reality
You may want to have your brakes checked to see if one or more is not releasing completely when you take your foot off the pedal.
I have the same model car and experiencing the same problem. The mechanic can't seem to pinpoint the problem.
I've had the Thermostat replaced and have had the Freon charged. It still blows cold for about 15 minutes and then gets hot. It seems as if something is overheating.
Did you get any resolution.
It's very hot here too in Virginia
Thanks,
CDP
Sounds like the fan speed selector switch if anything. Does the fan behave the same with the A/c off? With the heat on?
I read about your problem with your honda civic. I may have the same problem you had. You did you get it fixed, did'nt you? Was it the computer? Was it the Transmission? How much did it cost?
I have a 98 Honda Civic.
Thanks
Hi, I own a 2005 Civic Sedan AT.
I hear this clicking/creaking sound after I turn off the ignition of the car. This sound is happens 2-3 times a second and lasts for about 3-4 minutes after I shut off the car. I spoke to a service guy at the dealership where I purchased and he told me this was normal "happens with every Civic" and comes from the exhaust system cooling. does anyone else in this forum notice this about your car?
thanks for your time
Greyhawk5
My issue is kind of the same as janeway1, except it is semi-cool in the morning and late evening, but the afternoon it blows....HOT air. I have had several people look at it and they checked everything they could and said the compressor/fan doesn't turn on...they said the same thing about my computer...
Any luck on either of you finding relief..I live in Phoenix, AZ and IT IS REALLY HOT here.
Any one here experience the same problem as mine?
Yes, the question is: Does the blower behave the same without the a/c on, or with the heat on? You saying that the fan does not blow at fan setting 2. Does the fan blow when you don't have the A/C button pushed? Does it blow when you have "fresh air" or "recirculation" on? If the answer is yes to both, then it is the fan selector switch, not A/C.
I don't know about 98, but 99 had a digital voltage regulator. The transistors would burn out sometimes. The actual knob is just a "clicker," the transistored voltage regulator is near the fan. You would need a HELMS manual to do the repair your self. The part is about $30-$50 from online Honda parts dealer.