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I think I need a better description to possibly help you. Unless someone else understands or has had this issue?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I´m sorry my english vocabulary is not as extensive as I´d like, but I´ll try to explain the problem better.
The amount of leakage is not small, I´ve had to refill coolant several times during last week. In some case the leakage left the coolant tank (bottle, deposit, I´m not sure about the right word, in any case, where you refill coolant) almost empty (under minimum mark). I don´t think is an excess of coolant because I refill between MINIMUM and MAXIMUM indicated levels, as always and this has not happened before. The sequence of events is: after driving for a while, when you switch off the engine the coolant starts passing through the hose that goes from the cap of the radiator to the coolant bottle (this cap has an spring that under overpressure allows coolant go out to the expansion bottle). The problem is that the amount of coolant that passes completely fills the coolant bottle and then coolant starts going out the circuit through the purge that comes out from the cap of the coolant bottle, in some cases as I said before leaving the bottle almost empty. It looks like there is an overpressure in the circuit but I can imagine why. It could be the radiator cap is not working properly (maybe it opens the output to the coolant bottle at lower levels of pressure, but I don´t think so). The temperature indicator looks O.K. when driving.
the car is a 4 cilinder, manual.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I´m going to change the radiator cap and I´ll check it out during next week, that I´ll be out on vacation. I´ll tell you about how it was on august 20th
Look at the Honda Accord and Acura TL threads and you will see people having multiple auto transmission failures also.
Read the Camry threads and you will see engine sludge problems.
Read the VW threads and you will see even more problems...
I guess rather than avoiding certain brand, the best solution is to be an educated consumer, know the facts, the problems, and how to prevent them.
That's why these forums are so useful.
This car has only had one major failure while I've been using it. The thermostat went out and it was severely over heating, causing me to head home in small go/cooldown/go sessions. As far as anybody knows, thats the first time the thermo was ever replaced. It has a new clutch and I do the usual oil and filter changes. Mechanically it seem very reliable. the Muffler been replaced due to rusting, and I've seen a few batteries and alternators go into this thing. I've never seen it go out of service due to a major failure.
Most of the problems are electrical. A/C system is dead. the front power windows don't work. Reverse lights no longer turn on. Some problems are mechanical. the motor mounts need to be replaced and the keys don't work on the doors any more.
I was wondering if I should pursue replacing the broken components or begin looking for something else. I can't really afford a payment at this time and I do like the car. Would it be foolish of me to replace components on such an old car?
-MF
I dont mind working on cars as a hobby. I think it would be worth picking up. I don't plan to spend any more time than I have to though. School is and should be the number one priority.
Also, I find it hard to gather online info about this car. most online databases go back to the 90's, and get exponinentially worse about lacking information after that... know any auto site that have good stuff about imports from the mid 80's?
-MF
http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi
Thank you again qbrozen and maltb, you´ve been very kind sharing with me your thoughts.
It is quite common on the V6s.
Is it the center plug? If it is you may want to check the bolts to see if they are tight enough.
If it is not torqued to specs, it may leak.
It is not really a big problem even if you leave it like that, just that it will shorten the life of your plug wires.
I think replacing the front side is not too bad, but if the rear side needs replacement, prepare to pay big bucks because the entire intake has to be removed. I paid $145 for parts and $245 for labor 4 years ago to replace both front and rear.
My own personal belief - this and $3.99 will get you a Combo Meal at participating locations for a limited time only - is that if a transmission fails right after a fluid change, it probably also would have failed had you not changed the fluid. Until Mr Peabody gets the WABAC machine working, though, I can't say for sure.
If you can't prove that it has been changed at least every 30K, then I would also drain and refill again in a year with Lubegard and every 15K after that. I checked out the TSB notices that Lubegard sent me, and they are real. www.lubegard.com
We have transmission places that run specials where a drain and fill with a filter change costs about $50.00. Lubegard another $10-15. That maintenance cost every year or 2 sure beats a replacement.
In particular, however I would ask when the fluid was changed, and check it yourself for color or smell. I would also do the drain/fill/Lubegard regimen twice, a year apart, then go every 30K between drain and fills and you will stand a much better chance of avoiding problems.
While they don't have the largest motors, or do well off road (Tribute excepted) Mazdas are really a drivers car and a joy to take either at good speeds on the flat, or through twisty canyons.
Have a mechanic review it for conditions and if good enjoy. It will be a good car for many years to come.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm
Valve cover gasket is one of the common problems with the V6. Also, you need timing belt at 60k and it is an expensive job.
The second issue is a combination of car mild vibration when in drive at stop lights and rpm fluctuation when the AC is cycling (noticeable only when the car is in drive at stop lights). Possible bad mounts may explain the car's vibration, but what about the rpm fluctuation which seems to be AC related?
While I am here I would like to mention that I experienced many problems presented by others in this forum: rebuilt tranny, changed front struts, replaced cat. converter (warranty), CV-joints three times - as they did not fit well, valve cover gasket, fuel tank(!). Sad is that I did all these repairs in the last 18 months (I bought this car used)... Now my car has 72,000 miles, and I am very concerned about it.
Any heavy electrical load will cause RPM fluctuation. If it's more than about 150 off (the spec on the '96 with automatic is 700), it might be worrisome, but a one-second flutter of the tach is just electrical compensation at work.
It should be noted that the engine mounts have been substantially revised since the first appearance of this engine in 1993; I don't know exactly when they cut over to the new ones - I'd guess model year 1998 - but they're a whole lot beefier now.
I'm back after a while (a 2 month old baby does not leave much free time to tinker with the car...). Anyway, after driving for 20 minutes in city traffic the other day and finding a place to park, I started backing-and-forthing into the spot, and suddenly a good smaritan yelled 'Yo, your car's steaming!'. After my customary curse to the Mazda Gods, I finished parking, popped the hood, and yeah, coolant all over. So I started looking for a leak. Found drips from the splash, but no holes or cracks in the hoses. Everything was OK. Then I saw it. The little hose going from the radiator neck to the overflow tank had popped out. "Easy!", I thought. But my paranoia started right away - "Why did it pop?". Answer: The overflow tank is plugged. I pulled the hose, and sure enough, I blew air and the thing was shut. After I drove back, a friend of mine helped me to suck some of the stuff thorugh the hose - Man! There was so much crap in there!!! Dirt and sediment from the past 7 years!!! Anyhow, we got it to 'flow', but it's kind of touch-and-go. This weekend I'll have to clean the thing.
The question after all this rambling: How do you get the overflow tank out (95 626, L4, auto)? It looks like the car is built around it!
TIA,
Guillermo
When I was at the dealer today trying to get some oil filters and the crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the parts guy showed me a drawing which indicates that there is no fill plug and I have to remove the speed sensor to fill up the transmission.
I wonder if the parts guy is showing the wrong drawing.
Any idea?
Thanks.
The tank was FULL of grit and grime!!! It's hard to open, and I did not wanted to break it, so I just washed it with soapy water until the water came out clean, then rinsed it several times with clean water, then distilled water, and that's it. A lot of 'marks' and blotches remain, but they are sort of permanent stuff that just make it look ugly (a lot of it can be even mold...). Then cleaned the tube, and then bolted everything back on. Easy.
G.
'99 Mazda 626 LX has 56K miles already. But comes w/ one year warranty by the dealer. (It was the rental car, so we assume it's good condition.)
Other car we are considering is '01 Toyota Corolla LE. 33K miles on it and it's 2k$$ more than "99 mazda626.
Which one is better deal if we like to keep it for next 5 years?
Thanks.
On a Mazda, baby the tranny if it's a 4cyl auto by changing oil at least every 2 years.
On the Toyota of that age I would recommend an oil change every 3K to avoid potential sludging issues. (not common, but require a 5-7 thousand dollar overhaul if it occurs.)
The truth every vehicle has strengths and weaknesses.
Corolla is smaller and doesn't have ABS.
Our other cars have ABS.
Kids are used to drive cars w/ABS.
I don't know how much ABS makes different for safety, but I think it's better to have.
There is actually a fill plug, but it is facing slightly downwards. Took me a while to figure that out.
Put in Redline MT-90. No difference in shift quality though, which has always been good.
the idle is real low have tried to adjust it but cant get the screw to turn also lately when the a/c is on the car runs hot has NOT over heated lol because i turn it off helllllllp
Thanks
i noticed an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket. i was looking to see how much trouble it would be to remove the cover. there is an air condition line that runs over the top and i don't think there will be enough slack in it to allow the cover to be removed. will i have to remove the a/c compressor in order to get enough slack in the line to allow the valve cover to be removed. please advise. thanks, john
Pulling the valve cover gasket: I'd expect more trouble with the power-steering pump, which is mounted fairly close in.
Cooling tranny oil: The "cooler" is a section within the radiator, and not enough of one, if you ask me. Have them add on an auxiliary cooler, or get another garage.
Idle: Not adjustable. You can turn the mixture screw all you want and it won't change the computer's tiny mind one whit. If you're running hot with the A/C on, the electric fan array is probably not doing its job.
(By the way, if anybody lives in the Orlando FL area, I know a great mechanic for foreign cars, honest and reasonable. For example, I was quoted $1100 for a replacment A/C compressor from another place (my mechanic was in the hospital). I lived without A/C until he got out, and replaced the compressor for $250, and converted it to R-134).
Anyhow, my issue is that the CV boots on this car keep wearing out, every 10,000 miles it seems. My mechanic says he could make a living changing CV boots for 626's. Does anyone else have this problem?
Also, the car is still leaking water, but the symptoms have changed. It drips a lot when I start it up and start moving. I may have overfilled the emergency coolant, would that cause this?
Other than the A/C and the @%#$$ CV boots, the car is great. I taught my wife to drive a stick, and she loves this car so much that I have to drive the mini-van!! (don't worry, I have a 92 Nissan Sentra for going to work - very economical..)
Thanks
J-P
If the overflow tank is overfull, yes, it can slosh stuff out of its top. (Normally, it should appear to be about half full.)
I have a 1993 mazda 626 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. Since the last 30,000 miles I have been putting Mobil 1 10w-30 Synthetic and I was wondering if this is bad for my car or even simply a waste of my money. It s just that I have not noticed a difference one way or the other, and infact someone told me that I should not be using synthetic oil in such a high mileage car. Thanks for any advice.
Sabir.
Seriously if it's been running synthetic before keep it up. But it it's been used to conventional I would drain out half of the synthetic and replace it with conventional.
Never had a problem with seals on a 50--50 mix of Maxlife and synthetic. Get 2-3 gallons better on gas mileage too.
I can get air to come out of the foot vents. Seems to me some mechanism may be broken or out of adjsutment. Anyone here have any experience with this?
Dave