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Comments
Dave
I would think the motor is the likely culprit.
Didn't have to pull out the dash.
It went well at the end. One thing I noticed, although I saw the guide plates for the pads (the convoluted metal plates), I did not see any V-springs. Every place I read talks about them, and I remember the Protege I did last weekend had them too. Did certain models did not use them? Should I have them there? I figure that if the pads are not springing back, the brakes would drag like crazy, and it seemed (and seems) to brake fine - No drag whatsoever. Should I get them and put them there? The problem I had that prompted me to do the brakes (vibrations form warped rotors) is gone, so I figure everything is OK. Tell me if it is not...
Guillermo
All conventional disc brakes retract the piston and provide automatic self adjustment the same way. The lathe-cut high pressure seal between the caliper housing and piston distorts under brake apply as the piston moves outward, then relaxes and pulls the piston back slightly when pressure's released. That provides running clearance for the pads, IF a caliper piston isn't seized and the caliper slides are free and lubricated.
G.
I'm still running on the original pads on my 2000 (which can't last too much longer), so I can't speak for it.
Anyone else out there has experience with this?
'94 and '95 are the peak years for tranny troubles.
I had a 2001 626 4 cylinder automatic that was about 1.5 years old that went to my son who just got his license. The 2001 had the transmission replaced at 21,000 miles. From day one I had noticed an "oil" smell while driving. I was told that "there is no oil smell" so I changed dealers with my complaint. The new dealer re-routed the tranny vent line and most of the smell went away. I guess the real problem was the tranny was getting too hot and that was causing the smell, although the fluid level was always fine. To get to the point, my 2002 now has an extra cooler for the transmission (mounted in front of the radiator. I guess better late than never, thanks Mazda! I have put 200 miles on it with no "smell". I feel confident there should be no tranny problems in this 626. I guess I should add the cooler to my sons car now so he won't have any problems.
Tony
I would also consider adding Lubegard. It cools the fluid and reduces corrosive acids.
During frequent stops at stop lights my idle drops down and causes vibration,when I lock or unlock my doors my idle drops and causes vibration, when I turn on the air condition the idle drops and causes vibration, these situations I have listed all have been while the car is in a stopped position while in gear. The idle picks up within a few seconds, while this happens I notice that the fan kicks in and the car sOUNDS bRAND nEW.
I have read recommendations for this problem hear on Edmunds which is to replace spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. How true is this?
Are there any recommendations what to do about the warranty vs. Mazda USA? What shall I do? Is this a Lemon? What should be done about the car and about the warranty?
Has anyone heard of any recalls, class action suits, or any other recorse regarding transmission problems. My 1998 Mazda 626 has a little over 77k miles and the dealer wants 3,280+ for rebuild/replace from factory.( and that is not a brand new part)Maintanence was routine on vehicle and trans was not suspect until Sunday last. Customer service number was a waist of time...
I paid $1800. for a rebuild with new parts. Most mechanics I talked to (and the Mazda dealership) wanted $2500. to install a previously rebuilt tranny. The rebuild from Mazda would've run me $3000. including the $600. core deposit. $3280. would've made me faint!
I have a 1993 Mazda 626 4 cyl. 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. I driving out in the raintoday and all of a sudden there was a sudden and total loss of power. The engine just shut off.
I was at the side for a little bit and started it back again. This happened to me a couple of times before and I was wondering if this indicates impending doom.
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks all.
Should this be the case, the module will have to be replaced. If you hit your local dealership with this, expect them to want to replace the entire distributor assembly as a unit, though only the ignition module itself is at fault.
Details here.�
Coudl it be something else?? I still have the receipt. Thanks again.
And there's always the dreaded ECM (computer) problem, which is usually difficult to diagnose.
It happened again this morning. I calmly coasted to the side and waited a few minutes and restarted.
Just wondering what I should do now ?? If it is the distributor will it remain this way or will it get progressively worse ??
DOes anyone have any idea if the distributor off a 1993 Ford Probe 2.0 is the same as the one put in a 1993 Mazda 626 ??
Thanks.
I don't see why it wouldn't be the same distributor.
I seem to have a very specific problem. When I start the car in the morning, after about 5-10 minutes the tacho goes straight to zero and I get absolutely nothing from the engine. I have to wait about 10 minutes and the car seems to start up as nothing ever happened. And then I am good for the rest of the day.
So what I have started doing is I leave my car idling in the morning before going to school, and it invariably stops. I then wait for 10 minutes and restart and go about my business. Seems to be working for now but am not sure for how long this is gonna hold up.
Any ideas what is going on ??
From the posts before I gather that it might very well be the distributor. But I replaced the distributor just a year ago.
- Could it have gone bad so soon ??
- Is there any kind of warranty for the distributors ??
- Were'nt the new distributors fixed for this known problem ??
- Can I put in a working distributor that I bought from ebay for a ford probe into this car or do I need to spend 400 bucks again ??
- Lastly can it be anything else ??
Thanks all and sorry for the long post.
P.S. BTW,I have a 1993 Mazda 626 4 cyl. 5 spd. with 215,000 miles.
Dan
- new clutch
- new front rotors and pads
- new power steering pump
- two new CV boots
- new vacuum chambers
- new alternator
- new motor mounts
it needs a new radiator and a new throttle position sensor as well. i have sunk $3500 into it so far and i think it is now running okay...never buy mazda again unless they decide to stop putting in ford parts in their cars!! as my mechanic says, ford and mazda in bed together making some really UGLY babies!!
TIA, G.
Another question. Would a battery blanket be just as effective as a block heater for cold starts?
Problems shifting? Is the clutch working properly?
I'd suspect a strut mount before the actual bearing, but it's really impossible to tell without putting the squeeze on the darn thing.
And to be honest, I've never even looked for the freeze plug on the 2.0s I've owned; then again, it hasn't gotten down much below 10 (-12 C) here. Things are way different Up North. I suspect, though, it's tricky to get to.
john3321@webtv.net
As for those other problems you read about, well, the ES that year was a six-cylinder car, which means you have, not the dreaded LA4A-EL (CD4E) tranny, but the somewhat more robust GF4A-EL. And the nature of this particular beast is that it's never going to shift as inconspicuously as, say, an old Buick Dynaflow. Have your service guy change the fluid (which, assuming you followed Mazda's recommendations to the letter, has never been done) and see what happens.
I suppose it would help if there were codes pulled, but he hasn't said anything about that yet.