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The antenna goes up w/ no problems. It seems the the gear that retracts the antenna is worn out. The motor is fine. Any easy way to fix this?
Weatherstripping -- I moved from Texas to Illinois. I think the change in temperature caused my weatherstripping to come undone. I've tried using 3M Weatherstripping adhesive to fix it. BUT -- it keeps coming off! I've tried this twice. The second time, I tried taping the stripping in place until the bond completely seals. NO LUCK! By the way -- I relocated from Illinois to Phoenix for the summer. The EXTREME temperature change could've also contribute to this problem.
Thanks!
Drum brakes can squeal and grab excessively when wet if they contain too much dust from the shoes. I'm not sure that disc brakes could accumulate enough dust to cause those symptoms, as the components are not enclosed and the dust escapes easily. However, it wouldn't require much time and effort for you to pull the wheels and spray most of the dust off with brake cleaner just to eliminate that possibility. Could save you a trip to the mechanic who may try to sell you new parts to stop the symptoms. Good luck.
Some things to check:
1. Oil pan drain plug has an aluminum washer under it, which should be replaced every few oil changes as the aluminum is softer than steel and tigtening the steel plug will cut grooves in the washer. Also, there is possibility of overtightening the drain plug, thus stripping the threads and causing an oil leak
2. Oil filter could be leaking at the gasket if insufficiently tightened (only tighten new oil filter by hand.
3. Your engine is too new to develop valve cover leaks or front or rear crank seal leaks or camshaft sprocket seal leaks, but everything is possible. Also, oil pan gasket could be leaking or the oil pan bolts are loose.
As far as oil being too dirty in 3K miles: What oil do you have put in? Are you consistent with oil brand and viscosity (e.g. Castrol GTS, 10W 30?) What about the oil filters? What brand? I have heard of cases where certain brand oil filter gaskets did not seal right on some vehicles.
Thanks a lot.
So the question becomes "How is it that this car, barely a year old, is already on the used market?" And that one I can't answer.
By the way, these cars have DRUM REAR brakes, not Disc REAR brakes. I also distinctly remember that 1999 4 cyl models had drum rear brakes. It is possible that earlier models had disc rear brakes, but one should never underestimate Mazda's ability to delete standard equipment without advertising it.
My '00 also has rear drums.
Chances are you have a problem with the switch. Inside the switch are plastic slides with metal contacts and if one of those breaks, you will have a problem. The switch on your Mazda is very similar to the Nissan light switch. In my Nissan it was easy to remove and install. It took about 1/2 hour.
Does does impact your recommendation on getting it flushed now versus draining/sucking it out and refilling (i.e. is it safe to flush fluid that has been flushed before and is not as old as I had thought it was)?
Thanks again for all your input.
Thanks for your advice on the headlight problem. The light switch roll type of dial, must be the problem. The problem that you had is dead on with what I am experiencing. I will try changing it out. Thanks again!
Actually, flushing is probably safer now, since it's less likely that the seals and such have deteriorated from exposure to used-up fluid.
Still, since the GF4A-EL has a real filter of sorts, I think it's probably worth dropping the pan in the traditional manner, just to see what sort of gunk has accumulated in there.
I do not know the starter motor power output for the 96 model, but the starter for the 99 4 cyl 626 is rated at 1000 Watts, or 1 kW. The current drawn by the starter at 12 Volts is then 83.3 amps. Because your starter is a DC motor, and DC motors require up to 300 % of the running current to start, instantaneous current draw can be as high as 250 amps. This draws occurs for a very short time and then the starter current draw will drop back to 83 amps.
Keep in mind that when you crank your engine, all other accessories are switched off automatically, so your starter current draw is the only load on the battery for the duration of cranking. No other accessory on the car will draw as much current as your starter motor.
So in conclusion, your 500 CCA battery has more than twice the required capacity to start your car under the worst conditions.
Some suggestions for tjexas:
Sounds like your sunroof relay may be sticking and chattering intermittently
I had a slow coolant leak too and it turned out to be a leaking coolant overflow bottle along the bottom seam. The leak was very slow, and in my case hot coolant leaked into the A/C compressor clutch harness connector, and caused intermittent A/C problems, which nobody could find for months. My local Mazda dealer told me that there is nothing they can do until the A/C quits for good. I described the problem as electrical in origin, yet they never ran a resistance check on the clutch wires to see if they are OK. Anyway, finally the coolant leak got worse and the A/C quit. Replacing the overflow bottle took care of the problem for good. Mazda never recalled these overflow bottles although there are known problems with them.
Bose radio: never experienced any problem with mine - they should replace yours under warranty
Water leaks: there could be number of entry points. I would make sure that the sunroof drain tubes are clean (blow them through with compressed air).
Hesitation problems: you may not have any yet, but before you experience them, sugest you use Techron in your fuel system regularly (about once every ten tankfulls) and replace your spark plugs and plug wires at 60K. These V6 engines are extremely sensitve to carbon buildup and Techron helps prevent it. Walmart sells Techron for about $6 a bottle. Use one botle with about 12 gallons of gas. I was skeptical at first about using the stuff, but it really works
Speaking of Honda Accords, I must mention the following: my local Honda dealer had a 99 Accord LX (4 cyl) with about 60K miles and they were asking $ 14K for it (cloth seats and no sunroof). I was recently offered $ 4500 on trade (different dealer) for my 99 Mazda ES V6 with 68K miles and $ 23K MSRP. That's a whopping 19.6% of the original MSRP after four years for a Japanese car in mint condition (not a single ding or scratch and no accident history), leather seats, power sunroof, alloy wheels and Bose CD/cass stereo. I would expect better resale value on a Yugo. Resale value on this car is a real joke, except not very funny one for the owner. And the joker who "appraised" my car told me that he did not even need to drive it because it was in such great shape. I wonder what an average looking one would bring? Maybe $ 2000?
For more info, this is an 95 ATX with an L4, 88K miles, and I'm using 89 gas. Last year I did an almost complete tune up (everything but distributor cap/rotor), and it's oil was changed 800 miles ago. It's done less than 10K miles since the tune up. Oil is fine, and everything else is as well (no problem on the freeway). Only problem is the pinging. Could this be carbon knock? Should I check base timing? should I check the (presumably good) plugs?
TIA,
G.
Thanks for information and the heads up with my future problems. I get around 27mpg/HWY and 23mpg/city and I always have the AC on. They did replace my radios under the warranty. That's interesting information on the trade in value of the 626. This website, I believe, values the trade in around 9K for one in good condition.
1. Heavy carbon buildup on tops of pistons and valves. Carbon will glow red hot when engine reaches operating temperature and cause pre-ignition
2. Base timing that is advanced too far. Check your base ignition timing and make sure it is within spec
3. A non-functioning EGR valve. This is a common problem. EGR diaphragms tend to go bad with age and heat exposure. The valve then stay permanentoy closed. Or the valve actuation solenoid could be malfunctioning. The valve is easy to check with a vacuum pump.
Switching to high octane gas will alleviate the problem until you find the cause and eliminate it.
To find out if you have a heavy carbon buildup on your pistons, suggest you do a compression check on your engine. If the readings are abnormally high (e.g. 180 psi) in each cylinder, you definitely have a lot of carbon in your cylinders. Normal compression readings for your car should be in the 140-150 psi range. When you do a compression check, make sure you unplug the distributor ignition wire from the distributor (still attached to the coil) and ground it to your engine block.
2. Also, it was funny how my check engine light started turning on only 1000 miles after the Mazda warranty ran out on the catalytic converter. Mazda probably programmed all of them to do that. Now some 11,000 miles later at 91k, my light stays on all the time. I wonder when I'm going to turn the key and it won't start any more because the converter is too clogged. That will be the day that the donation tow truck takes it away.
3. Does anyone know if it is hard to rip off the heat shield where the exhaust pipe makes a bend to go up into the engine?? I have a tiny leak there, and would want to yank that off and wrap aluminum tape around it just to patch it together until the tow truck of death comes.
It sounds like the engine is suddently sucking air or coolant, or some belt is slipping. It only last one second, and this only happens when the engine is cold. After the car is warmed up, and restart, the noise won't appear.
PCV volve? Air leak?
Any suggestion is welcome!
Thanks in advance!
Several years ago I had an auto transmission rebuilt in my 83 Pontiac Boneville. It cost only $ 530, including a rebuilt torque converter. And this transmission was shot, it had no second gear left at all. The work was done a smaller transmission shop with low overhead. Usually these are places that can do the work chaper. I would shop around and see who can come up with a reasonable diagnosis and fix at an acceptable price.
Anyways, I will look into having someone rebuild my tranny, but after reading all the horror stories about how after all these folks rebuilt or replace their trannys and have to get them worked on constantly afterwards, I am a lil worried. It's sorta like my fear of chiropractors, once you start you gotta keep going......I am leaning towards trading it in anyways on a SUV i.e. a 4-runner or Exploder since baby #2 is due next month. Might have to keep this thing 4 months yet to pay the loan down to at least it's trade value...hope the force is with me to hold that tranny together long enough.
As for the Tempo owner, my neighbor had the same experience you did. While the Tempo was not very reliable, there are some who had little to no mechanical problems. I am mystified as to why you two (and others) had such good luck. One normally would chalk it up to good maintenance, but in the case of my 626, all my cars are pampered beyond your wildest dreams; yet this car had failed me at almost every turn of the corner. Last night it was my driver's side door lock cylinder breaking, forcing me to do some fancy repair work. And tonight??????.......stay tuned.