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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • hercyniumhercynium Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice, both of you. Of course, I'm not taking the advice of the jiffy-lube guy as a certain diagnosis, but I'm glad he pointed out the problem. I just might try looking for holes in the exhaust manifold pipe. Also... can you describe where the filter housing is, and how I would check?

    I'm just trying to get an idea of what the problem is so I don't get fleeced. I'm just nervous since I moved too far away to take my car to my old mechanic... he's slow, but he's honest, frugal, and always does the job right. :-)
  • mazda_manmazda_man Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice but i already changed the plugs and the wires and the fuel filter and the cadalac convertor,and the air intake hose bc it was crack and it is still doing it just as bad,sometimes it acts like it doesn't even want to goi went to get it put on a test but my uncles was haveing some problem so i should get it done by tomorrow,i just hope it is nothing to serious
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    I hope someone can help me here, you all seem to really know a lot about Mazda's.
    The problem is the A/C, it worked ok last year, but this summer it's blowing hot air. I put some more r-134 in it and it worked somewhat for a day, then back to hot air the next. The mechanic who checked it said he was 85% sure it was the Expansion valve on the Evaporator core. The entire core with new valve is only $250, but labor is $800! I want to replace the valve or core myself, but I'm not sure how to do it. I got the Hayne's manual and it doesn't look too difficult. Any suggestions?
    Also, could it be a problem other than the expansion valve or evap. core?
    Please help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why do you have to replace the entire evaporator? Putting in a new expansion valve isn't usually too hard (just a couple of wrenches, really) but you don't have the equipment to evacuate and clean the system. You'll probably want to put a new drier in there too since you're opening everything up.
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    The mechanic was just recommending replacing the evaporator since I was already paying him to get at the expansion valve. But, since the valve is only $30 or so, and the dryer is about $60, I think I'll try those first instead.
    Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have a mechanic evacuate and clean the system before I do the work?

    btw...thanks for the input...I really appreciate it.
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    I just looked at the high-pressure a/c side valve and it looks like I can use the same hose that I use to add R-134a but with an adapter fitting that I have. Will this work?
    Also, is it sufficient just to empty the high-pressure side until there appears to be nothing more coming out? Seems to me that this would indicate that it's empty.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, without seeing stuff first hand I don't want to advise you; besides, venting refrigerant to the outside air isn't cool, so that's why I was advocating that you have it evacuated and captured professionally. Also you have to protect yourself when you work on this stuff.

    I'd guess a shop might charge you an hour's time to do that.
  • nannettenannette Member Posts: 6
    I just recently started having that same problem of being at a Red light and the AC causing the engine to almost stall. During Acceleration, the car would kinda hesitate (Almost like it was misfiring) and pressing the pedal to the floor would cause it to stutter. Thing just wouldn't pick up and go like it always has.

    Don't know if you have had yours fixed or not, but here is what I had replaced on mine that completely fixed the problems:

    Spark Plugs - They had fallen apart inside the engine
    Spark Plug Wires - Whatever brand was on there. NGK or Denzo or something
    Rotor Button
    Distributor cap
    PCV valve
    Fuel Filter - Took an hour to take the engine apart to get to the stupid thing
    Air Filter
    Adjusted response time and Idle screw

    Runs great now with all power restored. I also had my fuel injection system flushed which really made a big difference in performance. Hope this helps
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    And, one hopes, a rebuild recent enough to have incorporated the handful of design changes that have been made to this box.

    I flush out my CD4E every 15k-20k miles.
  • seyitsseyits Member Posts: 1
    hi,
    i have a 1991 lx 626 stick shift.it has 117000 miles on it.i recently replaced clutch.it accelerates fine,but on fifth gear it hits 3000 rpm and it is only going at 70 mhp.
    any ideas
    thanks
  • mike74mike74 Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    A local mechanic recently put brakes on my 2001 626, v6 2.5, 35,000 miles. After a while they started to squeak a lot, so I took them apart to put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads. When I removed the pads, I found that the dust seals on the calipers were torn. It looks like the shim on the back of the pad sliced through the piston dust cover. Rather than take it back (wasn't crazy about the mechanic to begin with), I picked up a caliper rebuild kit from Mazda.

    The calipers work fine, but I wanted to replace the dust boots on them. Can I do this without having to remove the piston? I was hoping to just pull the old one off and put the new one in place.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • mx6alexmx6alex Member Posts: 1
    Hi there

    I seem to have a problem with my 2.0 standard tans. 94 MX6. The idle speed is pretty low around 600 or 500 rpm sometimes. if it happens to be at 700 rpm (usually after driving for a bit) it would drop down to about 550 when i apply the brakes or the clutch, with a double effect if i press both at the same time.

    thanks for your input!
  • used2lovemy626used2lovemy626 Member Posts: 1
    Any idea what would casue a sudden increase in noise during higher speeds? I've got 106000 miles on my 2001 626 and the increased noise just recently started. It is not noticeable when idling or even at low speeds (below 30 or so), and gets louder as the car goes faster. It basically sounds the same as it did before, just a lot louder.
  • jaybird3jaybird3 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88' 626 non-turbo with manual tranny. The car runs great except for the idle speed which when stopped will hover around 1000 to 1200 rpm. If I load the engine by partially releasing the clutch while keeping the brake on, the idle speed will drop to 700 rpm and stay there until the next stop. spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor are all new. It's curious that a temporary engine load will allow the idle to drop and then stay there. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mdpattersonmdpatterson Member Posts: 1
    I recently noticed that when I press the gas on my 2000 626 it stalls for a few seconds. It has 86,000 miles on it. Other than that I have had no problems. The small town mechanic (that I know personally) told me that I would have to have a new transmission. As I am typing this it is getting a second opinion. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this????
  • samjrsamjr Member Posts: 1
    we have a 1992 626 that has a new engine in it but it seems to have deveoloped a nasty litle problem. Runs great until it get good and hot then it stumbles badly and stalls. It will not re-start but will after it has cooled for a 30 mins. or so...run great agian till it gets hot. The water temp is not going out of normal range. any ideas of what it could be. Sounds like some sensor is holding us out. TIA :P
  • jaimjaim Member Posts: 4
    My 2000 626LX V-6 5M has grown exceedingly noisy at only 40,000+ miles. The noise sounds like excessive valve clearance, but I have been told that the lifters are hydraulic and the valve clearance is not adjustable. In message #1603 p100 mentions that 98 and later V-6's use mechanical lifters which require periodoc adjustment.Can anyone confirm whether the 2000 V-6 uses adjustable mechanical lifters?
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    Friend's 2000 626 w/ 80K.
    He had a condenser from a junk yard put in and now the compressor has smoke coming out so the mechanic told him to bring to dealer. He can't afford that.
    Anybody have technical info to link to regarding the AC for this car? Any help will be appreciated. I think it's a 4 cylinder engine.
    Thanks,
    Gary :D
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1996 626lx V-6, 5 speed and I really like it. Got a bad expansion valve on the a/c evaporator core and I have to take apart the passenger's side dash and glove-box to get to it. I would love to know if there are any tricks or tips on getting the dash out easier. The mechanic was gonna charge $700-$800 in labor basically for the dash removal/installation so it sounds like it might take a while...any good suggestions would be appreciated.
  • blowmeuptomblowmeuptom Member Posts: 3
    Hey Thanks I appreciate that alot! Ill get started this morning, i'll let you know when I finish up. Sounds like that about covers everything, stay tuned!!!
  • hektedhekted Member Posts: 1
    My girl has a 1990 626, she was complaining about her a/c blowing out hot air.....
    So she took it to get a retro fitting cause its a R12, so she got the fitting went to an auto parts store to put freon it after she did now there no air blowing at all.......
    Can someone help fix this problem please........
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I have a Mazda 626 1.8LXi (1996). The fan does nothing on settings 1,2 or 3 but works fine on 4. I have checked the switch and looks ok. The strange thing is that it worked the night before. In the morning, nothing. :confuse:

    Can anyone help? Does it mean a replacement fan? If so, how easy a task is it to do?

    Many thanks
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I checked back for any advice and all I see are more questions for help on AC. It's almost comical. :P
  • herfnerdherfnerd Member Posts: 4
    99 626 ES with 2.0 liter 4 cyl. - 3 spd automatic.

    Just started having problems yesterday. Put the car in D from a standing stop when I hit the gas, the engine revs but goes nowhere, likes its in neutral. It does take off, albeit a bit sluggish if I turn the OD off. At higher speeds/RPM's, it seems fine. If worse comes to worse, I will shift right into 2 and it will take off.

    What say ye - bad torque converter? Tranny fluid is a little dirty, but full......
  • alanctyalancty Member Posts: 1
    I have the 95 Mazda 626 and I have exactly the same problem. Besides, the problem worsens after I pump in gas. I have been using superior gas (Oct#: 91) Everytime after I pump in the case, the car stalls 5 seconds after I start the engine. It stalls in P, R and D. The problem worsen when engine is hot, also acceleration is not smooth (like misfire). However, when engine is cold and when I am not pumping gas, idle speed is 700rpm and the car runs fine. I have replace the Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, PCV Valves recently. The idle screw is adjusted to the maximum already. Should I replace the other items as well? Anyone can help? This car had been nothing, but problematic since I bought it.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's usually the blower resistor. IIRC, it's on the bottom of the blower housing.
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    forgive my ignorance but where is that?
    do you have a diagram? or even a rough drawing.

    its definitely not the fan then. cheers.
  • crashandburncrashandburn Member Posts: 1
    I think I have a similar problem. My 99 626ES V6 5 speed manual hesitates when I shift gears. The higher the RPM when shifting the worse it gets. Can produce similar effect by letting off gas without shifting and punching it again. I suspect a control problem but don't know if it's the throttle body, airflow sensor, CPU, or something else. Had this looked at when under warranty and the dealer said they couldn't fix it as this was normal. I bitched but they wouldn't hook it up to diagnostics. I would pay for diagnostics but am not sure it would show up on the scope. I like the car a lot except for this issue. I have 120K on it now and the only failure was the steering rack under warranty. I am now due for clutch, brakes, struts, axles, and a few other minor parts then hope to get another 120K out of it. I can do this work my self inexpensively. I thrash this car daily. Anyone have any Ideas on the hesitation problem.
  • nannettenannette Member Posts: 6
    Hey have you got your problem fixed?

    I don't think I will be worrying about mine for too much longer. I rear ended an 02 Mazda Protege yesterday and it completely decimated my front end. The protege only made it out with minor scuff marks. Don't think I'll be getting my baby fixed after this. I love you 626...RIP
  • rward2rward2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 that keeps giving a ODBII code of P0443 evap purge control system. I traced part of the vacuum line and tried to find the charcoal canister. I can’t find where either of them end up going from the tank to the front of the car. I also replaced the gas cap (hoping for the simple fix) it was a no go. Any ideas?
  • cudaguycudaguy Member Posts: 7
    Hey I know with american cars if the Tork Converter Lockup switch is defective and It doesnt "Unlock" when you come to a stop it will stall the Car Just like stopping a 5 spd without pushing in the clutch.
  • cudaguycudaguy Member Posts: 7
    Clicking when its moving? Thats sounds like the CV Joint is going bad. Does it get Louder or more noticable when turning?Especially at slow speeds?
  • montycristo59montycristo59 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 mazda 626 with a 4 cylynder engine, about 3 month ago it just stopped running. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, and the coil to no avail. it seems to be gettin lots of fuel and spark but it wont start. any sugestions on where else to look.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it has fuel and spark it pretty much has to start....fire + fuel = explosion, and that's pretty reliable physics. So if you really have fuel and spark you might have busted a timing belt. You might take off the oil cap and have someone spin the engine and see if the camshaft is turning in there.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Did you get any codes Does it have a Ford EECIV connectior for the pcm If not getting codes is easy. It should have a ADL connector if it is all Mazda.Look By battery there is connector that opens and has pins inside.Do a search to find out how to retrieve them . This sounds like a sensor but by retrieving the codes you can start on the ROAD to find out which one .
    Good Luck I had the book for it but cant find it
    :)
  • lpchouinardlpchouinard Member Posts: 2
    Sound's like the same problem i had on my 626 dx 94 2.0l. It was running for a few minutes then RPM go down to 0 (no more power to the spark plug) and i am not able to restart before a few minutes until it cool down. The problem was the ignition module in the distributor. I had it fixed last year and 2 weeks ago same prob... I was lucky enough the part was still under warranty. It will cost you around 350$ to fix it, also change the leads if you dont know how old they are...
  • hart1hart1 Member Posts: 1
    Windowphobe6 can you solve my problem.

    1994 Mazda Chronos 626 4 cyl automatic

    When I come to a stop sign the RPM goes from idle to Zero after a few seconds.

    I started my car this morning and it immediately went down to Zero .

    I have to keep reving it to keep it going .
  • phroadrickphroadrick Member Posts: 14
    Hi all. I used to post here but have had several years of trouble free driving and have gotten away from daily reading. CEL on for awhile now, but no code reader, so I stopped at Advance and had them pull the codes. They are saying EGR valve. Recommended cleaning first to see if this clears things up. I have throttle body cleaner and am ready to give it a go but I can't find the darn thing. Yes, I know what it looks like but I don't have the shop manual or Haynes. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Pictures would be awesome. Also, can I pull the hoses and just shoot cleaner into it or do I need to remove it completly and give it a good cleaning? Thanks
  • janusjanus Member Posts: 2
    hi gals, and guys, I have continous sound , such as u would forgot to take out key from the car, ?? ofcourse i did, I am closing the car, going away and i am hear the sound.?? WHAT TO DO ??? THANKS FOR REPLY. JANUS. :lemon:
  • oshawaoshawa Member Posts: 16
    Same problem with '94 626. I have been looking for an answer to this problem as everything seems fine under the hood. I have checked the injectors, replaced the rotor and cap (it was worn a bit). still have the same problem. I am getting a little tired of driving my car like it has a standard transmission....acccelerating then letting off for it to change gears...I am also getting tired of other drivers on my [non-permissible content removed] due to the fact that I cannot accelerate to 60 Km/H within 150 Meters.

    Idles fine
    Press the gas very lightly and it's fine
    Press the gas to accelerate normally and engine bogs and sounds like misfiring
    I recently replaced the entire exhaust system and the problem has worsen since.

    Anyone with an answer to this similar problem? Now I know I am not the only one.
  • janusjanus Member Posts: 2
    :lemon: i have mazda 626 94, i have sound of "not taken key from the ignition" ALL TIME,
    WHAT TO DO ?? WHAT WIRE DISCONNECT ??? TO STOP THIS SOUND ?? JANUS
  • thangpthangp Member Posts: 1
    Since you recently replaced the entire exhaust system and the problem has worsen. I strongly suggest you should check for loose or broken wires of all the O2 sensors.
  • oshawaoshawa Member Posts: 16
    I fixed my misfire problem. I first thought it was the injectors, wasn't. I have noticed a lot of you 4 cyl 626 owners have this problem so here is a little help.

    You will need a 10mm wrench, screwdriver + pattern, clip remover-pliers, and a can of Carb cleaner or Brake cleaner (brake is more powerful...use wisely.) open your hood and find the little "Ford" logo just passed the air filter box. Before you do anything--> disconnect the neg (-) battery terminal.

    The problem with mine was a dirty, dirty MAF

    1. Release the air filter box clamps (like you are looking inside at the air filter).

    2. Disconnect the MAF (Ford thingy) wires [hold the clip in underneath and pull from the connector)

    3. Disconnect the "other thing" that plugs into the air filter box [pull the two clips on the side away from the connector and pull connector out)

    4. Now, your air box and MAF are freer to move, so use a screwdriver to release the clamp on the top side of the MAF to remove both the MAF and the box as one piece (it makes it easier to take apart like this).

    5. Be very careful on this step! ... Use your 10mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts that hold the aluminum housing to the air box, keep the gasket.

    6. Now you have your MAF removed. As you may notice there is a metal screen, you may or may not remove this, it's up to you. I did. You will need the clip removers to remove it, as you can see.

    7.) Looking through the screen you will notice a little hole on the top side; it's probably black and covered in soot. Bingo, that's the problem.

    8.) Take your Carb cleaner or Brake cleaner, and spray inside the whole aluminum housing, just to clean it out. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING WITH A CLOTH OR Q-TIP, OR FINGERS DO NOT TOUCH IT, THESE ARE VERY SENSITIVE SENSORS. Spray inside the black hole... Spray ONLY...DO NOT TOUCH.... just a few squirts will do. You must not use anything other than an alcohol-based cleaner as this is an Electronic component area. When you are done spraying, the little hole should be sparkling clean, and you will notice inside there are shiny bright little wires (2 I believe).

    9. Let the cleaner evaporate for 30 mins (just to be safe)

    10. Re-assemble and install your part.

    If this works for you, congratulations, I know the feeling. :)
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    I just replaced my expansion valve and receiver/dryer as per mechanics diagnosis, and everything worked great for about a week. I got in it friday and the a/c is blowing hot air again.
    I checked for leaks and can't seem to find any, and the compressor is definitely working so I'm stumped.
    Any ideas what could be wrong?

    Thanks.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Here is what happened to my 99 ES V6 A/C:

    Around 30K miles it started blowing hot intermittently. After replacing the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve under warranty, it still did fail intermittently until it finally quit for good. Turns out my coolant overflow tank leaked slowly and hot coolant got into the A/C compressor clutch harness connector which sits directly under the coolant bottle. Replacing the leaky bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem.

    The system worked great until about 100K miles when it suddenly quit. This time it was only the A/C relay (about $ 25 from Mazda). I diagnosed and fixed the latter problem myself.

    Don't be so sure that your compressor is working. Make sure the compressor clutch is engaging. You can see that by watching the clutch rotate as an assembly (when A/C is off, the A/C clutch sits stationary, and only the pulley rotates.

    If your A/C compressor/clutch is working properly, and the system pressure is correct, then I would check the A/C expansion valve for blockage.
  • puffinboypuffinboy Member Posts: 2
    I have something rattling inside the compartment by the passenger side airbag. Does anybody know how to ge the cover off so I can take a look to see what is making the rattling noise?
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks P! That gives me lots of things to check but the last thing I want to do is take it somewhere and pay someone to diagnose it, I'd rather do it myself.
    I do notice a slight loss of coolant sometimes, usually about 5-10 ounces a month, probably overflow loss so I'll check that first.
    Thanks for explaining how to check the compressor clutch.
    BTW, I noticed a sound coming from the evaporator/expansion valve area under the dash after I had it working again. At first, it was a slight "whoosh" or "hiss" sound every now and then, like gas flowing through a valve (logically) but after it started blowing hot again, the sound was more consistent. Any idea what it was? Or maybe related to my new prob.

    Thanks again for your thoughts, I'll check those out and get back to ya.

    B
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    One more question if you would...

    How do I unclog the expansion valve if it is indeed clogged?
    Do I just run water through it, or poke it with a screwdriver?
    I don't want to mess it up.

    Thanks again.
    B
  • sudongsudong Member Posts: 2
    I am a new member with my 1999 Mazda 626 ES. It is a nice car but with one problem. The air condition doesn't work well. It is not as cool as other Mazda 626. I don't know what's wrong. Do you guys have the same question? One of my friend has a 1998 Mazda 626 LX, and his air condition works perfectly.

    Thanks for your help.
  • ruthmaruthma Member Posts: 1
    Hi. does anyone know if the problems with the Mazda transmission affects the manual transmission as well? I am looking at an older manual 626.

    Thanks

    ruth
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