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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    It's very possibly noise caused by skipping brake pads on top of rotors. The cuase may be wax or grease contamination of pads and rotors. Cleaning the rotors, sanding them to remove the glaze, and replacing the pads usually solves this probelm. Also, this can be cuased by the caliper sliding pins binding. Need to clean and lubricate the sliding pins with special grease (available at Auto Zone).
  • e44e44 Member Posts: 10
    I just had the timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket and coolant changed on my 02 626 4 cylinder. There is a noise coming from the side of the engine beneath, or directly at, the water pump area. It is a "loose bolt" sound - if it was internal, I would think it was a valve tappet hitting the inside of the valve cover. My mechanic assures me it is not internal - but he can look at it only in a few days. I will not drive the car in this condition. The car runs fine, good acceleration, revs nicely, no stuttering. Any suggestions as to what this could be, especially if it is related to the timing belt work.
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    You know, if it was related to the timing belt, it would almost probably be the tensioner pulley and or its bolt/spring.
  • e44e44 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks. I'll have the work done by midweek and post the results.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    How many miles on the '02 and what kinda shape was the belt?
    We're at 73K and planning on belt change...once money is available.
  • latino20782latino20782 Member Posts: 5
    just got it 3 weeks ago and of course is used 79454 miles and now the engine light is coming on/////what does the mean and what needs to be fix???????? :sick:
  • e44e44 Member Posts: 10
    The car had about 60k miles on it. This is the recommended maintenance schedule for a timing belt on the 4 cylinder engine when driven under severe driving conditions. Since I live in a climate with a cold winter, that's the schedule I followed.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Go to Autozone and let them run a code check. Mine was just on, and all I needed was the EGR hoses cleaned. Had the dealer perform the work. Good as new. I have 101k on mine.
  • freemjfreemj Member Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Mazda at 626. There is this brown waffle looking debris blowing out of AC vents. I'm what it is and what is causing this.
  • latino20782latino20782 Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the input...but what i did was change oil and filter,pvc,and spark plugs...yesturday and the engine light came off?????if it comes on again i will take it to autozone....thaks...
  • ursula0127ursula0127 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Mazda 626 with 105K miles overheated yesterday and left me stranded. I really hate that. Any the shop says the coolant reservoir has a leak in it. They are saying they tried to pressurize for other leaks, but because of this one they can't keep coolant in to test the rest of the engine. They are wanting $269 for parts and labor. I need to know if I am getting ripped off or if this is a decent price. Any ideas anyone??
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Mazda 626 OEM coolant overflow reservoirs are crap. I am on my third one after 7 years/152K miles. The retail price of the reservoir is about $ 80. It takes 5 minutes to replace it. So, yes, they are ripping you off if all they are doing is replacing the reservoir and some coolant.
  • dadiodadio Member Posts: 1
    My daughters mazda stopped running. she said it was ratteling a lot. now it does not start at all. It turns over but does not have any compression in all four cylinders. The timing belt is not broken and the distributor is intact and working. While the engine is turning over it just sounds like a long whinning sound. It does still pump oil up to the top end and there is no visible water in it.
  • dozer6dozer6 Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced the belt on my 1997 626 and now when the engine is running fluid comes boiling out the top of the resevoir.
  • pemery1pemery1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 Mazda 626 V6

    I was told by a mechanic I need a new Over Flow Tank for the radiator. I am wondering if you know of anywhere that I could buy one and have my mechanic put it in. He said they are easy and it shouldn't take long. I have found a overflow tank at a dealer and another at a autoparts store for $75. I also found a few that say they are good for 98-02 Mazda 626's for under $5. Any help trying to find the right part would be greatly appreciated. The part number I was given was KLG4-15-35-C. I was also given KLG4150H as a number from another place. Thanks again.
  • pemery1pemery1 Member Posts: 2
    I need a replacement over flow tank for my 2000 Mazda 626 v6. I was wondering where I could purchase one. I have found one through a dealer, one thorugh a parts shop ($75) and a bunch on the internet for under $5. Not sure what to do or what exactly I am looking for. The part numbers I have been given are KLG4 150H and I was also given KLG4-15-350C by a parts store.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Buy only the OEM tank. Your local dealer probably has one in stock becuase these bottles tend to leak. I am on the third one in my 99 Mazda 626 V6 at 153K miles.

    If you want to save about 40% of Mazda list price and do not mind waiting about two weeks, you can buy it on line through albanymazda.com.
    Forget the $5 universal overflow tanks. They do not have the required nipples to connect to all coolant tubes in your Mazda. Good luck.

    You can replace the bottle easily by yourself. You'll need: a ten mm socket, extension , and ratchet. Small pliers to remove and reinstall the hose clamps. Fill the new tank with a 50/50 mixture of Mzda orange coolant and DISTILLED water.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I just got done replacing the A/C compressor in my Mazda 626 because the bearing on the old compressor clutch disintegrated, destroyed the compressor clutch, and also damaged the shaft seal, so the refrigerant leaked out.
    To do this job, you need to rent a set of A/C gauges and a vacuum pump from Auto Zone ($ 300 deposit refundable upon undamaged return).

    To remove and install the compressor you need to suck out the old refrigerant (unless already empty). You need to take it to an A/C place to have this done. To remove the compressor, you need to jack up the right front of the car, remove the right front wheel, and the right engine splash shield. Then loosen and remove the outer engine belt(alternator&A/C compressor pulley). You need a 10 mm socket with a long extension and a 17 mm open end wrench for this.

    The compressor is held in place by four bolts. First, disconnect the clutch electrical connector. Loosen the compressor mount bolts, remove and drop the compressor slowly onto a wood block with the hoses still connected. You'll need a 13mm(?) socket and a ratchet without an extension for these. Then remove the hose fittings from the suction and discharge ports (10mm hex head bolts I believe).

    When you replace the compressor, you'll also need a new accumulator. This one is mounted next to the firewall on the right side of the engine compartment (closer to right front wheel). You'll need an open 24 mm and 27 mm wrench to loosen the fittings. The accumulator is held in place with two 10 mm hex head bolts. Always replace the O-rings when breaking and reconnecting A/C line connections. Oil the fittings and O-rings liberally with the refrigerant oil. This enables you to tighten the fittings properly. You cannot squish the O-rings too much as the fittings will have metal to metal contact when the O-rings are compressed enough to create a good seal.
    First start and tighten the accumulator fitting connections, then install and tighten the mounting bolts.

    To install a new compressor, first bolt the compressor up loosely and then connect the hose fittings with new O-rings As before, lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant oil. Be very careful to start the fitting bolts in properly and do not over tighten them! Just tighten snugly, otherwise you may strip the aluminum threads.

    Reconnect the compressor clutch connector, making sure the wire is secure and away from the rotating compressor pulley. Secure in place with a wire tie if necessary.

    It is also a good idea to inspect and clean/or replace the orifice tube, which is located in the high pressure line near the right wheel upper strut mount. If the old compressor comes apart internally, pieces of debris will clog the tube, and the tube screens must be cleaned and the system flushed. This did not happen in my case, so I did not have to remove the tube. The access is not easy. A new orifice tube is about $ 14 from a Mazda dealer.

    Note: if you get a new Mazda compressor, it already comes filled with the required amount of PAG refrigerant oil. If you use some other rebuilt compressor, it may not have any oil in it. You'll need to add about 240 ml of 100 viscosity PAG refrigerant oil (recommended for Sanden brand compressors).

    Charging the system:

    First connect the gauges to the high and low side ports. The gauges have quick release couplers. Close both valves and connect the vacuum pump to the middle yellow hose. Start the pump and slowly open both low and high side valves. Let the punmp run about 20 minutes. The desired vacuum is about 29.9 inches of Hg. After 20 minutes, slowly close both gauge valves with the pump STILL RUNNING. DO NOT turn the pump off with the gauge valves open, or you'll suck the vacuum pump oil into your system! Let the system stabilize for about 10 minutes and make sure the vacuum is still maintained.

    The primary purpose of pulling vacuum on the system is to remove the moisture from the system. At high vacuum, the water boils at 10 degrees F!

    After evacuating the system, if the vacuum holds and no leaks are found, screw the valve assembly onto the first refrigerant can and connect to the yellow hose. With the engine off, slowly turn the blue, low pressure side valve open to start charging the system. DO NOT OPEN THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE VALVE! After the pressure of about 60 psi is reached, start the engine. The compressor should come on and cut out about every 5 seconds, This is normal. Continue charging the system. You'll need 750 grams of refrigerant. It will take slightly more than two cans of refrigerant (each can contains 340 grams). When properly charged, the low side pressure should be around 30-35 psi, and high side pressure at idle around 230 psi. High side pressure will hit about 300 psi at 2000 RPM. After the first can, you'll need to rev up the engine some to facilitate flow of refrigerant into the system. Do not turn the can upside down! You do not want to introduce liquid refrigerant into the system, or you can ruin the compressor, as liquids ARE NOT COMPRESSIBLE. The can will get very cold as the gas refrigerant flows out of it.

    It is a good idea at this point to check the line connections with soap solution for any leaks. Even if you have no leaks when pulling vacuum on the system, leaks can demonstrate when the system is pressurized. Do not ask me how I know. If you have access to a special refrigerant sniffer, this is the best way. Make sure your low side pressure does not exceed 45 psi at idle. Anything over 45 psi means the system is overcharged and cooling efficiency is reduced. Low side pressures below 25 psi mean the system is undercharged. The compressor will also cycle frequently if this is the case.

    The cost of parts:

    If you buy the parts from albanymazda.com, you can get a new OEM compressor with clutch, accumulator, orifice tube, and O-rings for about $ 470 plus shipping. Your local Mazda dealer retail price would be about $ 630 plus sales tax for these parts. Refrigerant cost from Auto Zone for three cans is about $ 21. So if you do this job yourself, you'll save about $ 500. A Mazda dealer will charge you about $ 1,000 to install a new compressor and accumulator& orifice tube, and recharge the system.

    This job is not that hard, but you must pay attention to details. I strongly recommend staying away from rebuilt A/C compressors. Auto Zone wanted $ 330 for a rebuilt compressor, which will probably last less than a year. Most rebuilt A/C compressors from discount auto parts stores are absolute junk. For comparison, a new Sanden OEM compressor from albanymazda.com is about $ 365.
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    CAN ANYBODY TELL ME ANYTHING ABOUT HOW TO CHANGE OIL PUMP ON A 1997?.....MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON.....I DROVE THE CAR ABOUT 30 MILES..OR MORE AND..IT DIDN'T OVERHEAT OR ANYTHING?????..IT DID RUN OK.......BUT WHEN I TAKE THE OIL CAP OFF I DONT SEE ANY OIL SPURTING WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING.........COULD IT BE JUST A BAD LIGHT OR IS IT THE OIL PUMP BAD....(YES IT DOES HAVE OIL TO THE FULL MARK)........ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATTED....IS THERE A WAY TO KNOW IF THE OIL PUMP IS WORKING?..
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    ME AGAIN.....BESIDES THE PROBLEM WITH THE OIL PUMP POSTED RECENTLY....I ALSO HAVE ENGINE LIGHT ON AND MY TRANNY IS BEHAVING LIKE A BUCCKING BRONCO MOST OF THE TIME.......SOMETIMES IT JUST DOESN;T SHIFT...AND THE MOTOR FEELS LIKE IT JUST DIES ON YA......AND A SEC LATER THE TRANNY ENGAGES AND RUNS FINE........ANY IDEAS?.....I CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, WIRES, DIST CAP AND ROTOR, FUEL FILTER....BUT TO NO AVAIL.......THIS CAR IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!! TO TOP IT OFF MY FRIEND JUST LOANED TO ME UNTIL I CAN GET MY OWN!!!!!!!!...HELP PLEASE.....
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Do not assume you have a bad oil pump. First thing you need to do is to check the engine oil pressure. The oil pressure sender could be defective.

    About the transmission: You probably have a defective solenoid in the transmission. If your engine check light is on, get the code pulled for free by Auto Zone to see what the problem is. Do not replace unnecessary parts at random. NEW PLUGS, WIRES, DISTRIBUTOR ETC, will not fix your problem if they are not causing the problem.
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    P100 THANKS FOR THE INPUT....IT WAS AFTER ALL...THE OIL SENSING?..SENDING...UNIT....CHEAP FIX......MECHANIC PULLED THE FOLLOWING CODES....P0133 02 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 1 SENSOR 1
    P0421 WARM UP CATALYST EFFICIENCY BELOW TRESHOLD BANK 1
    P1131 UNKNOWN TROUBLE CODE
    P0300 RANDOM /MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE DETECTED
    P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1

    IS THERE ANYTHING I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIX ON MY OWN ON THESE CODES??.IS THIS SOMETHING THAT A TUNE UP MIGHT FIX?......ANY IDEAS WHAT CODE P1131 IS FOR?....COULD IT BE RELATED TO THE TRANSMISION JERKING LIKE THAT?.....
    THANKS FOR THE HELP....REALLY APPRECIATED.
    JKAFKA
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    According to my 1999 shop manual, P1131 code corresponds to "heated oxygen sensor(front)". Condition: Switch sensor indicates lean

    When you replaced the plugs, is there a chance that you may have cracked one or more ceramic insulators? this happens more offten than you think. Happened to a coworker of mine, happened to me some years back. Take out tthe plugs and carefully check them and carefully reinstall. One or more misfiring plugs can cause all kinds of codes to me thrown. Transmission malfun ction may be related to engine misfiring.

    What is the compression in the cylinders? Also recommend a cylinder leakdown test.

    You could pour a bottle of chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner into your gas tank with about 8 gallons of gas and run it through.
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    THANKS...DIDN'T THINK OF THAT...I'LL CHECK THE PLUGS AND SEE WHAT'S UP IN THERE....THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF ONE OF THEM BEING CRACKED....I DIDN'T PUT THEM THERE....FRIEN OF MINE OWNER OF THE CAR DID.....SO...THANKS A LOT BUDDY.....AGAIN
    JAMES
  • cookliocooklio Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1996 mazda 626 4 cyl atx....it has been running awful for about 6 months. Rough idle...almost stalls at red lights...very little power going up the slightest hill...if I let off the gas and step on it again it will take off but kinda jerky at various speeds..but will run 65 or 70 mph if you are patient enough to ease it up to there....i havent tried to run it any faster than that...changed plugs, oil, tanny fluid, distibutor cap, rotor and wires, timing belt and idlers, fuel filter, top o2 sensor, and valve cover gasket....cleaned the MAF. I am so tired of throwing money at this thing. CEO is on and codes are P1130, P1131, P0421 and P0171....Please help. I have looked for vacuum leaks but cant find anything obvious.
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    WELL...LOOKS LIKE GOD WORKS IN MISTERIOUS WAYS AFTER ALL.....AFTER I HAVE THAT OIL SENSING SWITH CHANGED..BECAUSE MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON IN MY DASH............GUESS WHAT?????
    ALL MY TRANSMISSION JERKING PROBLEMS DISSAPPEREAD!!!!!MY CAR RUNS BETTER THAN EVER...I JUST CANNOT BELIEVE IT....
    IT HAS POWER, IT TAKES OFF...THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TO.NO MORE JERKING...NO MORE FIDLING WITH THE GAS PEDAL TRYING TO MAKE IT SHIFT.......NOW ALL I HAVE TO TRACK DOWN IS WHY MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON ...I'LL BE CHECKING MY SPARK PLUGS INSULATORS TOMORROW AND SEE IF THEY ARE CRACKED (SOMEBODY IS GOING TO LOAN ME THE SPARK PLUG WRENCH)......I HOPE THIS INFO IS OF HELP TO YOU COOKLIO...AND THANKS TO P100 AGAIN FOR THE DIRECCION.....
    JAMES
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    HEY I JUST POSTED SORT OF AN ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEMS..MESSAGE # 2168 ....SOMETHING WORTH CHECKING INTO.....SINCE WE BOTH HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS....HAVE THE OIL SENSING SWITCH CHECKED.....MY PROBLEMS DISSAPEREAD AFTER THAT WAS CHANGED....AND MY CAR RUNS AND PURRS...I JUST CAN'T F...G BELIEVE IT!!!!!...I WILL KISS MY MECHANIC TOMORROW I THINK.....YUCK...GOOD LUCK FRIEND.
    JAMES
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hey James - just a quick note. If you would post your messages in normal case instead of all caps, they'd be a lot easier to read. Also, since all caps is interpreted as shouting, it's not really very good "netiquette". Thanks! :)
  • jkafkajkafka Member Posts: 7
    Pat..sorry about the caps thing.....won't happen again..promise....
    james
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    :)
  • cookliocooklio Member Posts: 6
    I dont see how it could be the oil sending unit...although I guess anything is possible at this point...I am not getting an oil light...but I will check it out...cant hurt for like 5 bucks...but all my codes point toward a lean fuel condition...oh well...I am ready to try anything...thx for the input.
  • carguy32carguy32 Member Posts: 6
    have 2000 626 4 cyl, put in new timing belt when had head off and replaced water pump. When run ofter several days the alternator belt would brake. It also made noise, high pitched. On the third alternator and still does it. Have replace belts and have 1/2 play in belts. Now when first start up has the high pitched noise and then g oes away. However, it did this when first back toghter and the alternator would get very hot on the pully and melt the belt. Anyone had anything like this? Any suggestions would be welcome. Jerry
  • carguy32carguy32 Member Posts: 6
    2000 626 4cly. It appears I listed this as an answer to someone else question, sorry, I had head off and had value job replaced timing belt and water pump. when drove for a few days the alternator belt broke. I checked the alternator and it would make a high pitched noise and the pully would get very hot, it was melting the belt. I thought was alternator but have the 2th rebulit on it and they and the orginial all act the same. Now will start it up and the high pitched noise is on for a few seconds and goes away but it did this when first put back togehter and I had to have it towed twice as the belt broke and started running hot. Anyone had anything like this? Belt has 1/2 inch play and have replaced them twice now. Jerry
  • aragdollaragdoll Member Posts: 1
    I won't go into all the other problems I've had with this car but you can probably imagine. My current issue is the stereo. Initially the display would dim and I couldn't control the volume and the CD would go in and out and I couldn't change radio stations. This only happened sometimes. I lived with it for awhile as it was only slightly troublesome (as I was much more concerned with the transmission!) Now the problem is much worse. I'm lucky to get it to works at all. Anybody else have this problem? I'll probably replace the stereo but would like to know what the issue might be. Thanks
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I seriously doubt that the alternator is your problem after trying three different ones. I suspect that the belt tensioner pulley bearing is on its last leg and about to freeze. I replaced both tensioner pulley bearings on my car because the bearings are permanently sealed and they start falling apart around the 100k mile mark. The pulley bearings can be purchased from your mazda dealer separately, but you need a shop press to replace them. You can also buy complete pulley assemblies, but they are rather pricey.

    I would remove the belt and the tensioner pulley. Spin the tensioner pulley by hand. it the bearing rattles or binds, you need a new one.
  • vantagemotorsvantagemotors Member Posts: 14
    Like the previous poster mentioned, check the idlers & tensioners first. What will often happen is the new belt will stretch, even after only a days use. You may have to have it adjusted a few times until it stops stretching. It would be best to have it readjusted before it starts squeeling. When it starts squeeling it will self destruct in a very short time. Some belts stretch worse than others, try a Mazda belt from your dealer, it will stretch less and is likely the same or less than an aftermarket belt.
  • vantagemotorsvantagemotors Member Posts: 14
    It's an internal problem with the radio and yes, you have to replace it. It's your choice whether you put another factory radio or an aftermarket. Personally I would put an aftermarket unit in. The factory radios were known to have LCD display and volume button problems. If you do go after market, buy a wiring harness adapter kit, they work really well and save you from cutting up the factory harness.
  • carguy32carguy32 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply. I feel foolish but was talking to a friend that owns a auto shop at a cruise in and he said he would try taking up the play in the belt to see if that helped. It corrected the problem. However, I am not too red faced as when this first started the belts had little play. this model does not have a tensioner or I would have tried that before the alternator. Sometimes you can not see the forest for the trees. thanks again. carguy32
  • latino20782latino20782 Member Posts: 5
    does any one knows why wehn it rains water comes in on the r/side of my 99 626 passanger side carpet is wet front and back...driver side ok???? :sick:
  • allcars1allcars1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having tail light trouble, the brake lights work, however the tail lights don't I have changed the bulbs and they still don't work. Any suggestions?
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    Bulb type. You should use a dual filament type. #1157, and also verify your coresponding fuse in the fuse box is okay.
  • edagger3274edagger3274 Member Posts: 7
    hi. im new here and i want to say thanks for having me. haviung said that, now i wonder if i could get some help with a problem that just occured.
    i had to change the water pump on my '96 626 and, as you all know, you have to take alot of engine parts off to get to it. well in the process, i figured i would change the timing belt as well, since i am told its best to do it when ur changing out a water pump on this car. now i have a small amount of knowhow when it comes to this, and as long as it took to do all of that, i managed to get it all done and the car started with no problem. its only when i go down the road, the car runs rough and the engine start surging when i come to a stop of any kind. after warm up it gets worse. i dont think my timing is off because i checked everything by marking everything before i took it apart and making sure everything lined back up as far as timing goes. is there something im supposed to do after i had put a new timing belt on? does something need to be reset? i would appreciate any help i can get without having to go the a shop cause my mistake is gonna probrably cost me more than it would have to have it all done at the shop in the first place.

    p.s.: the check engine light came on but goes away after i disconnect the battery for an amount of time. just thought i would throw that in.
  • edagger3274edagger3274 Member Posts: 7
    hi.

    i was wondering if you had ever fixed the problem with your mazda. im having that same trouble now, and the idle air control valve that i was told would fix the problem is 500 dollars. since it didnt fix your problem, i was thinking maybe it wont fix mine either. im sure you dont have the car anymore, but if you could remember anything, i would greatly appreciate it.
  • carguy32carguy32 Member Posts: 6
    Yes I fixed it with a tighter belt. I had a high pitched noise after putting in the timing belt and water pump. changed belts but when I first had problem the belts appeared to tight. However after changing and getting the alt.water pump belts tighter noise has not come back. After about 300 miles I think it is fixed. Never had a problem with idle air but check vacuum lines. I had one come off when working on it and it made the check engine light come on and the engine ran ruff. Found the line off and fixed the problem. hope that helps.
  • edagger3274edagger3274 Member Posts: 7
    hi.
    thanks for responding back. unfortunately, my problem is still there. i changed the 400 dollar IAC valve and still doing the same thing, with the surging and idling rough. i do appreciate you taking the time to respond. i just hope my problem doesnt get any worse than it already is.
  • carguy32carguy32 Member Posts: 6
    Sure, sometimes someone may have had the same problem. I would run the codes if you do not have a code checker go to one of the Auto Parts Stores. Advance help me a while back on finding something that had kept my check engine light on for several years. I had it at a dealer and several independant shops each year to pass emission check and after so long found the problem a value in the gas line that controls the fumes.
  • edagger3274edagger3274 Member Posts: 7
    well i thought i would go ahead and recheck the timing. i talked to someone at another forum, and he asked if had turned the engine twice and checked to see if everything lined up. of course i didnt do it, so now im going to check the timing and see what happens.

    thanks.
  • edagger3274edagger3274 Member Posts: 7
    well the verdict is in. it was my fault. my timing was way off. im suprised the car even started the way it did. either way its fixed now and 400 dollars later, it was my mistake. i appreciate all the help and i hope to help any of you guys out one day.
  • jcdongjcdong Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am new here. I bought a 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6 (66K miles)last month. I found its engine idle speed increases from 800 rpm to 1,000 rpm for 2~3 seconds and then goes back to 800 rpm from time to time when I turn on the air conditioner or when the wind blows to the windshield. I am wondering if anyone here have the same experience. Could it be a big problem? Thanks.
  • vantagemotorsvantagemotors Member Posts: 14
    The engine RPM will briefly surge when the a/c is turned. This is caused by the computer compensating for the extra load the compressor puts on the engine. The compressor also engages when you put the heater in the defrost position to aid defrosting. It is a good idea to leave your heater on the defrost position as little as possible for fuel economy reasons.
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