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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • chops1223chops1223 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 96 mazda 626 2.0 liter 2 years ago with 53,000 miles on it. Ever since I bought it i've been having minor problems with it.. The right axle was replaced 3 times and still clicks when i turn the wheel. But my main problem is the idling on the car. It got so bad that it actually dropped so low my car stalled. Took it to the mechanic and he screwed with the idle to make it a bit higher but not too much. Its been fine. It still shakes. The car runs great when its cold out.. but what car doesnt.. Now that the summer is coming around, i'm starting to get worried cuz the car runs very rough especially when the car is stopped..brake or in park... it shakes and sounds like its putt'n out. It's eatin my gas the hell up. My mechanic says its because my valve cover wasn't sealed correctly and there is oil getting into my spark plugs... hopefully this helps... he's only charging me 280 for all of this.. he's done many things for free on this car in the past. so i don't mind. But if this doesn't work then im shooting for a new car. Hard tho, cuz we really don't have the money for that or even to get this one fixed... Mazda... needs to do a whole bunch of recalls cuz this is horrible... so many problems i read about. :mad:
  • fordlover100fordlover100 Member Posts: 8
    i have a 1991 mazda and the left turn signel dosnt work i think it makes the sound but none of the left bliners blink

    and i checked the blinker lights and the front right was out

    could this be why its not blinking at all not even on the dash.
  • fordlover100fordlover100 Member Posts: 8
    you might have to turn the timming up
    i had the same thing

    do u own a timing gun

    if you dont then you would have to play it by ear

    frist you losen the distributor just to the point were you can move it.

    your going to want to turn it troweds the car but not to much.

    also when is the last time you change the plugs and wires

    and change your oil?
  • fordlover100fordlover100 Member Posts: 8
    i have a 1991 mazda and the left turn signel dosnt work i think it makes the sound but none of the left bliners blink

    and i checked the blinker lights and the front right was out

    could this be why its not blinking at all not even on the dash.
  • hyprangel119hyprangel119 Member Posts: 1
    HEllo,

    I noticed someone had the same problem I'm expereiencing and am wondering if they were successful in getting the matter fixed. I went to Mazda, they charged me $300 to tell me I need a new transmission. THe car drives perfectly fine, and when I put the gear in reverse it kicks like it wants to move, but the sits there.
  • chops1223chops1223 Member Posts: 2
    I dont own a timing gun but i know a few folks that do.
    the last time i changed my plugs and wires was probably january or feb 07.. not too long ago.. my car wouldnt start and it had just snowed so it sat for a couple days and the i bought both and some mechanic changed it for me. And i change my oil every 3 thou miles but i think ima hav to start changing sooner and more often.
    ima try what you said tho..
    thanks for the info
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    My daughter has a 99 626ES V6 with 111k miles. When stopped at a red light, the temperature gauge climbs rapidly to the top of the range, but not high enough to max out the gauge or cause any idiot lights to come on. As soon as we take off driving again, it drops back into the normal range fairly quickly as well. Car is up to date on mainenance, including recent replacement of all belts about 3 months ago. And, the electric fans are both operating. Could the car be needing a radiator flush and fill and a new thermostat?
  • joelleinjoellein Member Posts: 7
    My guess is you have a bad water pump....better get it checked out asap.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might find this helpful:

    http://www.troubleshooters.com/toverheat.htm

    Just as a general rule, your symptoms are signs of a cooling fan/shroud problem.

    "Serious overheating in heavy traffic but not in open driving is an indication to investigate the fan, fan clutch or motor or relay, or shroud. Some cars have two fans, and both should be on if the engine is hot."

    Visiting Host
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    A follow-up to my earlier post. I have discovered that the coolant reservoir tank has developed a small leak. Since the tank was actually dry earlier (hard to tell with the tank being white instead of a clear plastic), I was not able to see a leak, but after filling the tank back up, it is definitely leaking. I believe this is a common problem on the 626. Thanks for the input I did receive.
  • jaque4ujaque4u Member Posts: 2
    I've searched as many posts as I could tolerate and didn't see these symptoms. Interior power works until ignition turned on, then no power and no crank from motor. Don't really hear any clicking from starter area, but some noise from whatever relay is on engine side firewall in front of driver. Months ago had problem with it cranking but not starting when raining. Replaced dist. cap, no fix. Thoughts were bad ignition coil, but problem went away when I sprayed some silicone on the coil. Tested resistance to 0.8 between green and brown terminals, and 8400K between neg. and pos. Could bad coil also cause a no crank condition? It's kinda hard to weasel to starter and test for power, but I suppose that should be my first step. Need an extra body and contortable limbs for that though. Twice when I removed battery cables and re-attached, it started. Eventually went to no crank again after several starts.
  • usmczx3usmczx3 Member Posts: 1
    have you figured out what the problem was? I'm trying to help out a neighbor with the same problem with a 94 mazda mx-6 with 160K miles, manual trans. He ask me to help him replace a bad water pump & we decided to replace the timing belt also. all the marks lined up so the car started right up but the car ran for 10 minutes then shut off....NO CRANK,replaced starter,distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel pump.....still, NO CRANK!!!!! the car has power up to the second click, then when you actually try and twist the key to start. CLICK.....everything shuts OFF!!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!
  • udienowkudienowk Member Posts: 3
    picked up a jdm FS engine for my blown up 98 lx, installed it, works great! With the engine came a 98 GF4A-EL for a four cylinder, will it work in a V6? if so what ones?
  • hmcgowanhmcgowan Member Posts: 1
    A couple months ago, my Mazda 626 2002 began misfiring in random cylinders. New spark plus, wires, coil pack, and everything was put on it. In ran good for about a month and then it started doing the same thing again. We took it to a mechanic who looked at it and said that it was the plugs and wires again. When the plug in the first cylinder was taken out, it was very dark and looked burnt. The other did not. So, we changed the first one and put different wires on once again. It did not fix anything. However all of a sudden, our car started over-heating again. The car began to smoke after just a drive down a 3 mile road. when we looked under the hood, we noticed a hose had a leak in it. There was a small hole and you definitely see antifreeze(i think) leaking out. I do not know the name of this particular hose, but we did put another on it. The car is still overheating nonetheless. We have done the spark plugs and wires...there is plently of coolant in the car. A friend suggested it could be the sensors? I am honestly just fed up with it and just would like some good advise on what I should do. I am planning on taking it to another mechanic and am tempted just to say find out what is wrong and fix it! I hate not knowing a lot about cars, because it seems you can easily be ripped off. help.
  • zillahzillah Member Posts: 7
    When I try to put gas in my car, the pumps will never stay on. You have to continuously pump the grip. It's at different intervals when it stops but never seems to get a whole gallon in at a time. I have let the tank run very far down too in case it was bad gas already in the tank but that didn't seem to help.

    I've tried three different gas stations, different grades of gas too. At first I thought it was the hot weather expanding the gas but then it has happened each time I've filled the car no matter the weather. One gas attendant said it was because something needed to be cleaned out and it would probably cost $700 in NJ but cheaper in NY.

    Not only do I not want to get ripped off, I want to know what the problem is in case it's an easy fix I can do myself.
  • joelleinjoellein Member Posts: 7
    I have a similar issue, but not exactly the same, with my '01 626 V6. I can put in all but the last gallon and a half with the nozzle on automatic. But, it shuts off early, and I can put in another 1.5 gallons if I run the nozzle manually. I've gotten used to it, but it is kinda annoying to have to stand there and "top off" the tank with 1.5 gallons. Your problem sounds like it might be related, but is much worse. Replace your gas tank, maybe ??
  • twitmetwitme Member Posts: 7
    Just in case anyone else was having this same problem, I found the solution. The fuel pump needed to be replaced. It wasn't a cheap repair, but my mazda is finally running strong.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for coming back and letting us know.
  • latino20782latino20782 Member Posts: 5
    well i have this car for a year now and i could never get this engine light problem fix.....it comes back on and off...wtf? :sick:
  • latino20782latino20782 Member Posts: 5
    Anyone knows what is needed to be done at 90,000 miles...i got 92,736 now?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You should be able to look it up in our Tips and Advice section. You can start here: Maintenance Schedules.
  • l3ehindblue3yel3ehindblue3ye Member Posts: 1
    I know this is a 626 forum but i just joined this website and im a little confused on how to post a question. THe 626 is very similar to my car so i decided to ask the question here. okay welll ....
    I own a mazda mx6. Recently i was told that my catalytic converter was blocked. My car has not been shifting gears and going very sluggish like at times i cannot get it to go above 20 mph. I was wondering if there was a quick fix to this because im about to trade my car for a honda prelude and i have to get it to the guy because we are trading cars. He is aware of the problem but at the moment i just dont think my car will make it there. IF you could let me know if there is any way i can make my car work for a short period of time that would be great. thankyou.
  • udienowkudienowk Member Posts: 3
    two quick fixes... you can take off the cat and brake the silveroxyide screen that runs throw it- the best way is with a drill. or you could just drill some hole into the cat housing but, this could make it to loud to trade in. good luck with the prelude!!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I believe you may have the problem with the tank vent hose or the carbon canister, or associated components. Have those checked.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Have Autozone pull the code for free. You need to know why the engine check light is on to begin with. I have a '99 ES V6 with a 5 speed manual and 176k miles (original owner).

    One issue common to these cars is clogging of the EGR passages in the intake manifold and engine block with carbon. This results in engine light coming on, sometimes intermittently. The code is I believe P400 (insufficient EGR flow). The way to fix this issue is to remove the throttle body and spray carb cleaner into two passages on the bottom of the intake manifold just past the throttle body. These are EGR passages. They run through the manifold and the engine block all the way to the EGR valve. Replacing the EGR valve will not fix this problem! It is an electric valve and very expensive - about $ 350, even from aftermarket sources. So do not replace it unless you are absolutely sure it needs to be replaced.
    But first find out what the trouble code is in your case.

    At 92k miles you should: replace the timing belt if it has not been done already (recommended at 60k), including all three tensioner pulleys. Auto Zone sells a nice timing belt kit that includes the timing belt and all three pulleys for something like $ 100. Do not even try to price these from Mazda, as it will be about $ 700! And bearings wear out in these pulleys believe me! I replaced mine at 105K miles. Also, check the tensioner pulleys on the engine drive belts. The pulley bearings tend to go bad. You can buy replacement bearings, but you need a hydraulic press to pres them in and it is a tricky process. New pulleys are expensive - almost $ 100 a piece. Even aftermarket ones are expensive. You should think about replacing the plug wires if it has not been done already. What about brakes? Are pads in good shape? Check the outer CV joint boots. They often start splitting around 90-100k miles. You may want to change the water pump if you do the timing belt. Be warned - changing the timing belt on this car is not easy! I have done it myself so I know. You need to remove the front engine mount to install a new belt and to replace the water pump. I do not recommend this job to anybody without sufficient experience. You are best off finding a good mechanic to do this. There is a lot of pitfalls associated with this job.
  • phinneas519phinneas519 Member Posts: 113
    I'm not sure if it's relevant but I just had my 1991 626 LX brought into the shop to have the ignition cylinder/keys replaced and the air flow valve because the other one had a leak.

    That said, here's the problem. My fiancee was going to leave for work today and noticed the shoulder restraint motor was moving slowly. She tried starting the car but it wouldn't work. She only got minor accessories - the car would crank but not start. We figured the battery must've gotten drained because the accessories could've been left on over night (our car somehow allows this).

    So I came home to give the car a jumpstart and off to work she went. She called me and said that the car wouldn't start again, so the alternator must not have had a chance to do its job, even though she let it idle for a half hour in addition to the five minute drive to her job. I came over to her place of work to give her another jumpstart and so we went home, with me following in case she got stranded.

    Sure enough, one block from our house, the car died at a stop light. I came around and tried to give her a jumpstart again but this time the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not turn, as if my car's battery weren't connected. We brought the battery to Wal-Mart to have it tested and charged. They gave it a clean bill of health and said it was charged, ready to go. After putting the battery back in the car, it wouldn't even crank. Dead as a doornail.

    This is extremely frustrating, especially after spending over $500 on the above repairs. Does any one have any idea what could be the cause or solution to this problem? Thanks so much!
  • udienowkudienowk Member Posts: 3
    it's hard to say but, it sounds like the ignition is wired wrong. i don't know if the shop did it or not. but rule of thumb if there wasn't a problem before you fixed it than you fixed it wrong. i would take it back, or if your a do it your selfer than try to get a wiring diagram for it. good luck hope this helps.
  • olufemiolufemi Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 ES-V6. It has 174,000miles on it. I have had this problem with the transmission for a month now. It shifts into 2nd but with hesitation. It does not go past second. I had a reconditioned box put in it, still the same story. I was told it is an electrical problem with some sensor, solenoid, or relay. Where are these part located in the car.

    Has any one out there experienced anything like this please.

    Will appreciate if you can share the solution with me....
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    I replaced my radiator some time last year. I don't remember were I got it from and don't have the receipt, but I'm sure I bought the cheapest one I could find. Now the radiator is leaking antifreeze under the transmission tube fitting. I don't want to make the same mistake twice. Can anyone recommend a good radiator or tell me what I should look for when shopping for a replacement radiator.

    Thanks in advance,

    Perry
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Member Posts: 14
    When my car is cold it makes a very high pitch screeching noise at the time of starting. I have Mazda 99 LX 4 cyl. When I use a spray on the belt before starting, this noise goes away and then next day it comes back again. This is going on for more then 2 years now. Is there a way to stop this noise. Any idea of what things it will involve during repair.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    One of the belts are loose. Use a flashlight to inspect the belts. You may notice glazing on the one that's loose.

    -Perry
  • olufemiolufemi Member Posts: 2
    My '98 Mazda 626 ES-V6 had resent problems with the transmission. I took it in for a diagnostic and the codes pulled out (P0710, P0711, P1474, P1479). All this relate to a faulty PCM. How and where can I order for a PCM? What info is required for PCM ordering?

    Please assist!!!

    Thanks you all....
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Check albanymazda.com website. They sell genuine Mazda parts at 30-40% below the retail price that most Mazda dealers charge. A genuine Mazda radiator is your best bet. Under no circumstances buy another Chinese made piece of junk from Autozone or the like.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Time again for our weekly gathering of enthusiasts! maybe we shold make tonight a costume chat! :P

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • cstephenscstephens Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 with a little over 91000 miles ...and it has weird electronic issues...if I role up the windows it shakes....sometimes when I turn on the AC it shakes ....

    ....Every time I take it to the shop it it rarely acts up or they say they don't know what it is. Has anyone experienced this?

    One last thing....I have noticed that after a long road trip my engine light will flash when I accelerate .....is this a sign of transmission issues to come?
  • mhhalabemhhalabe Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Mazda 626 with 184,000kms on it. When I roll up two windows at a time, the drivers side goes faster than the passenger side. And recently, my car, when idle, smells like it is burning. It isn't oil leaking, and it isnt another fluid leaking. It only seems to happen in the winter. As for the engine light coming on, I can't say I have the same problem, so I can't help you. But mine is acting up as well, so you're not alone. :confuse:
  • bella712bella712 Member Posts: 2
    hey thats weird i have the same car same year with 89k and i have the same exact problem it shakes when my window goes up and it shakes when my ac goes on it also shakes when im in park.. i know that my mechanic told me i needed an engine mount im not sure which one but i need to get that done asap sometimes it shakes so muck i think its goin to shut off...when i get the mount put on il let you know how that works out my mechanic said it could be the reason that my car shakes
  • bella712bella712 Member Posts: 2
    maybe its your starter i know i need one right now and once it dies it dies but usually you would see a sign did it give you problems starting it or did it just die out of no where
  • cstephenscstephens Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for the post it's good to know I'm not the only one with these issues...makes it seem as if there is a cure

    New Issue ---today I smelt coolant so I looked under the hood and a tube(right in the center and above the spark plugs) had come loose from the engine! I put it back in and it seems to have stayed throughout the day...How big of an issue is this?
  • texascowboytexascowboy Member Posts: 1
    Mazda 626, 1999, 100000 miles, 2.0L.">
    There is a weird noise that appears 5 minutes after warming up the engine and gets louder. Noise is localized in the area on the passenger side from the valves. Noise is dependent on engine speed.
    Does anybody know what is that?
    Thanks.
    <img src="
  • mazdacammazdacam Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem on my 2001 V6 626. It did not do this when the car was new but started getting worse after it was about 5 years old.
    But then my battery died this summer (2007) and when I put a new battery in the idle surge problem went away. Unfortunately it came back again after about 4 months.
  • drundledrundle Member Posts: 1
    My sister picked up a 1994 626 the transmission surges and the engine idles way too fast. she manages this by shifting up and down thru the gears.Neutral at stop signs and stop lights etc.
    Now the lock on the shift automatically locks on it's own, I am trying to help her with this problem.
    Can any one give me some insight on this transmission problem ?
    Thanks
    dennis
  • standarkstandark Member Posts: 2
    As a follow-up, the problem was a bad ground under the battery. Wiring to the lights.

    Thanks
  • amychs2010amychs2010 Member Posts: 1
    i just recently got a 1999 mazda 626 and when i started driving it sometimes the key wont come out and sometimes it will.
  • nykspree8nykspree8 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, so for the past week or two my 626 has been up-shifting sporadically and on some of these up-shifts it will stall too, like it feels the car is going to die and then it gets a boost and keeps going (sorry if my explanation sucks i know nothing about cars!). So I took it my mechanic and he said it was the coil getting old, and it was quite corroded so he buffed it out and said that should fix the problem, but I'd need a new coil at some point in time in the future. On my way back home it did the up-shift thing again, but not as bad as it usually does (maybe i wasn't on the road long enough for it to get bad). I was thinking maybe it needs time to adjust now that its been cleaned out, or I dunno. So is this a coil problem? Old wiring ? Help please!!! lol
  • eharingeharing Member Posts: 2
    Mazda just replaces a tans range switch Code PO78. Now they have puleed a new cod PO731 which did not show up before.
    Anyone know what this code is and how to repair?
    thanks
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    The code P0731 means incorrect 1st gear ratio, it is applicable to automatic transaxle only. To troubleshoot, check shift solenoids #1 and #2.
  • john32626john32626 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 626 2.0L, 5 speed
    I'd like to know how to access the trouble codes stored in the computer.
    is there a cable and software that I could plug the car into a laptop with?

    ok now the question of the day...
    193,000 miles, at idle the engine runs a bit rough, new NGK plugs installed and didn't help. think it may be ICS? has a vibration at 1500 rpm in neutral, oscillating somewhere.... harmonic balancer?

    This is the first small car I've ever owned, I love it so far, but I really am not used to dealing with computer controlled cars. sometimes I wonder if I've got the rubber band wound too tight.. LOL

    thanks for any help ya'll can give...

    John
  • sideous85sideous85 Member Posts: 1
    my car wouldn't go more than 20mph so the mechanic told me to change the piston rings after he did a compression check the number 3 piston wasn't working so i replaced the piston rings, had the head redone, replaced the headgasket, did a full tune up, but when i went to turn it on the car doesn't start. I believe 100% that it's the timing but i'm a bit rusty at it can someone help me please?
  • guidry3guidry3 Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone make a after market cooler for the tranny. I think the main problem
    with the trans of this era is they are too small for the weight of the car causing
    them to overheat.
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