Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda 626 Troubles

14445474950

Comments

  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Member Posts: 14
    My car make screeching noise when it is cold and when you start the car in the morning. The noise comes from the belt. I used belt spray for a while, which makes the noise go away for a day but keep coming back the next day.

    Is there a permanent and cheaper solution to resolving this noise from belt.

    Thanks

    Syed
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Several aftermarket coolers will fit; you want a small one with sandwich-plate design (looks like a smallish radiator) that plumbs into the existing fluid lines and fits in front of the radiator.

    Mazda at one time had a factory kit for these things, but it was pricey.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No sorry the "belt dressing" doesn't really work very well. You can try tightening the belt up a bit but if it is glazed from slipping you have no other choice but to replace it. But check the tightness by all means.
  • guidry3guidry3 Member Posts: 9
    Do you think the main problem with these trans is overheating and what are the
    chances that this will fix the problem after it is rebuilt?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    That's always been my impression. There were some design flaws early on, but most of them had been corrected by 1999 or 2000, and replacement parts have followed the newer, less fragile designs.
  • chevyrce2000chevyrce2000 Member Posts: 1
    Ok I have a 94 626 and for some reason the battery continues to drain if the car set more than a couple of days at a time, I have replaced the battery and terminals, and had the alternator tested (it was good) and for some reason when I turn on the headlights it kills the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • midgetmidget Member Posts: 2
    Hello ev1. I just got a 1989 mazda 626 Lx. It has a hold system button on the drive shifter.So me being me I pressed that button .Now my car won't drive.It goes in all gears but don't move.Anybody got any ideas I would love to hear them. :P
  • midgetmidget Member Posts: 2
    HELP ME I CAN'T MOVE :mad:
  • lid03lid03 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    Was wondering if anyone knew what this means.. I took my 2005 mazda 626 to get tested and this was the result. PO133 = 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response(Bank 1, Sensor 1) and P1131 = Unknown Troble Code. I have no clue what it means please someone help me understand in plain and simple as possible

    thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No such car as a 2005 626. Do you have a Mazda 6?

    Code P0133

    Possible defects:

    bad front 02 sensor
    front 02 heater malfunction
    loose front 02 sensor
    pressure regulator malfunction
    fuel pump malfunction
    fuel filter clogged
    fuel leakage
    leaky exhaust sytem
    purge solenoid valve malfunction (evaporative emissions system)
    insufficient engine compression
    engine defect--leaking coolant into engine.
  • lid03lid03 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry its a 2000 mazda 626 .
  • baffledinkybaffledinky Member Posts: 5
    :confuse: I recently purchased a 2000 Mazda 626 LX w/AT and 4cyl. The car had a rough idle untill I replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. The reason I replaced them was, A:the rough idle problem, and B: the car began to hesitate when downshifting on inclines. This seemed to fix the problem for a while and it was VERY apparent that the previous owner had not changed them in quite some time... The hesitation problem has returned a month later. I ran a scan and it said misfire detection on cylinder 1, and later on cylinders 2 & 3. I replaced the coil/ic module, catalytic converter, and fuel filter. The only thing that helped was the fuel filter replacement, which only helped a little... I have ran a check on MAF, fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator vacuum control valve, and all check out fine...
    I AM BAFFLED!!! Any suggestions??? Thank you for ANY advice.

    PS the car runs fine untill I am on an incline or push the accelorator far enough to activate the passing gear...
  • baffledinkybaffledinky Member Posts: 5
    I have had similar problems of late with my 2000 626, and the first thing I would reccomend would be a Shop manual, or haynes repair manual. That being said, I replaced the plugs with Bosch platinum plus4 fusion, and NGK HP wires... Problem went away for a month and returned in full swing. I replaced the coil for 50 bucks, the catalytic converter, and tested my MAF sensor, to no avail... Good luck and if you figure something out on yours, let me know... :(
  • liketolearnliketolearn Member Posts: 2
    Recently I have noticed my car isn't heating up as quickly as I think it should. The temperature gauge seems to be moving to the normal range but the air blowing is cold. Once I get on the interstate and keep moving it gets warm and temp can be regulated lower for comfort.

    Most of what I read regarding thermostat indicates the gauges moving to overheat states or not to normal temp. Could it be lacking water/antifreeze mix? or some other issues?

    liketolearn
  • sharkpimpsharkpimp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 mazda 626 4 cylinder it overheated on the express way and shut off now it wont start. had to have it towed back home, i fixed the leak it had, one of the small radiator hoses behind the exhaust manifold was cracked,I also replaced the spark plugs but still wont start, it cranks but will not start. I charged the battery and still it cranks but will not start. I took off the valve cover just to see the timing belt and it looks good its even tight so Can anyone help me with this problem?
  • liketolearnliketolearn Member Posts: 2
    When my 2000 mazda 626 would crank but not turn over, it was my fuel pump. I didn't have any overheating issues, it could be two issues you had.

    liketolearn
  • kg_6933kg_6933 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 mazda 626 and it just stopped running. The check engine light has been on only for a couple of days and I replaced the coil, thats not the problem, what else could it be?? Please help
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Slow warmup indicates that the thermostat is sticking partially open or opening too soon. Replace the thermostat.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I have 193k miles on my '99 ES V6 5 speed and it is still running great. There are some issues/ maintenance tips associated with this car that I want to share:

    1. This engine (2.5 liter , 24 valve V6) likes premium 93 octane. It performs better and gets better fuel economy. I get 25-26 MPG consistently in city driving with A/C on all the time (in Florida). Do not use regular gas if you have this engine. Mazda recommends premium fuel for best performance and there is a reason for it. My car seems to like BP, Sunoco , and Mobil fuels the best for some reason. Stay away from no name brand gas stations.

    2. Use a bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner in your gas tank about every 4k miles. Mix with approximately 8 gallons of gas and drive until the tank is almost empty. This cleaner does marvels when used regularly and keeps injectors clean. I have never had injectors cleaned int his car and the engine is silky smooth.

    3. Change spark plug leads and spark plugs about every 60k miles. There is a good reason for this. The plugs are located in deep wells betweent he cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to very high temperatures, so they degrade over time. Use the recommended OEM Denso plugs. Bosh plugs are not recommended for these engines and do not perform too well in them. OEM Denso plugs are expensive, but you can get them at a much more reasonable cost from sparkplugs.com (about $ 7 per plug vs $ 19 per plug from your Mazda dealer). A set of OEM plug leads for the 6 cylinder is about $ 130 right now. I have fooud that the electrode gap on the spark plugs increases from 0.030 spec gap to 0.060 inches in about 60k miles. So replace the plugs every 60k.

    4. This particular car has a design flaw with the EGR engine block passages. These passages are too narrow and get caked with carbon over time. The EGR valve itself is practically bulletproof - it is ab electrically ooperated, liquid cooled valve. If you get the engine code P400 (insufficient EGR flow), most often this means clogged EGR passaged throughout the engine block. The solution is to remove the throttle body, and the upper intake manifold, get a small caliber gun (like22) cleaning brush and throughly brush the ERG passage in the engine block and the intake manifold and liberally spray out with carburetor cleaner. You will need to replace one throttle body gasket, and two intake manifold gaskets, and well as two fuel banjo fitting copper washers. This is the only way to do this right. Cleaning only the EGR passage opening in the intake manifold just past the throttle body will work only for a while.

    5. Coolant overflow bottle: This is a defective item on this model and Mazda should be ashamed that they sell such junk as a replacement part. I have installed 5 of these coolant overflow reservoirs on my car by now, because each lasts about 18 months before it develops a slow leak. Mazda dealer admits there is a problem and they keep these things in stock. The price is outrageous - about $ 90 list price.

    6. Brakes are practically bulletproof on this model - I am on the second set of pads and still original brake rotors at 193K miles. There is still life left in the pads and rotors are not distorted or grooved.

    7. There are no issues with the manual transaxle, but the clutch master cylinders are not that reliable - the seals in mine failed after 130k miles. When this happens, the clutch will not release and you cannot drive the car.

    8. The A/C compressor clutch bearing failed on mine at 135 K miles and it destroyed the compressor shaft seal, so i had to buy a new compressor.

    9. There OEM CV joints/axles are of low quality and upgrading them is a good idea.

    10. Change oil frequently, and use only Mazda OEM oil filters or a good aftermarket filter with an anti drain membrane. This keeps the oil from draining from the cylinder head when the engine is shut off, preventing oil starvation of sensitive cam journal bearings when starting a cold engine.

    11. Replacing the timing belt on this car is not easy and you should also replace the cam and front crank oil seal, water pump and all three tensioner timing belt pulleys. Auto Zone offers a timing belt kit for this car that contains all three tensioner pulleys and the belt for about $ 100. These pulleys from Mazda are outrageously expensive - they were about $ 180 a piece about 5 years ago. I replace the timing belt on this car every 105k miles, although they recommend it every 60k miles. However, Mazda sells only one timing belt - and it is a 105k miles belt, as some state require the timing belt replacement interval to be that.

    My engine runs strong at 193k miles - I see no degradation in mileage or performance. The engine does not use oil and does not smoke upon startup. I am still on the original radiator, alternator, and starter. The original paint is of excellent quality and still shiny after all these years in harsh Florida sun. Of course, I wash the car frequently by hand and use ZipCar wash wax containing soap, which keeps the paint looking like new.
  • mikeinhomikeinho Member Posts: 1
    My car overheats when i drive, it cools down a lil bit when im stopped or i let go of the gas for a period of time, but everytim i accelerate the car goes well past the H, i checked my coolant system and at first my reservoir was empty and my radiator full, when the car overheated, everything that was in the radiator went to the reservoir and made it over flow, and my hoses were collapsed, anybody know what the problem might be?

    -Fans work
    -Coolant full
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    You may have the thermostat stuck closed, improperly installed thermostat, or a failing water pump (e.g. broken impeller). Also the radiator core may be badly plugged with scale. Remove the radiator and have it flow tested by a good radiator shop.
  • galcalagalcala Member Posts: 4
    hello, I was searching for information on a little trouble im having with my girlfriends car when I came accross Carspace. first i would like to say this is a great site with tons of info. now my troubles.
    she owns a 96 626, on friday it started shaking a little, we thought it was just due to it being a bit overdue for a tuneup so on saturday I gave it the treatment, plugs, wires, cap rotor, filters etc. well it didnt fix the problem the car idles like crap and wont stay at steady RPM fluctuating between 500 and 750 and dying out, funny thing is that once i get it on the road it rides really really good no issues no sputtering, no hesitation, runs like a dream. check engine light was on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a misfire but I check and rechecked every ignition component with no luck. so again car runs near excellent at speed but Idles really bad. can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    general misfire code could be anything related to fuel mixture as well as spark.

    You might check for a bad vacuum leak somewhere. That would give you all the symptoms you mention as well as correct itself at highway speeds.

    Also a clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve or tubing.
  • galcalagalcala Member Posts: 4
    thanks Mr. Shiftright, Ill check it today. can it be cleaned with carb cleaner or the like?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah but that doesn't always work. There are also tests for the EGR valve which is usually vacuum operated. Vacuum leaks can be detected using a carb cleaner or a smoke machine, which you probably don't have!
  • galcalagalcala Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. Ill check it to see what can be done, as for me not having a smoke machine, well not unless you count my old ford ranchero lol.

    thanks again.
  • baffledinkybaffledinky Member Posts: 5
    This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • baffledinkybaffledinky Member Posts: 5
    This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    When a bit of carb cleaner is sprayed into the intake of an engine, the engine RPMs will surge faster for a couple of seconds. When there is a vacuum leak, air is sucked into the engine through places where it should not come in. This could cause hesitation, overheating, emissions and other problems.
    Use carb cleaner to spray shots around suspected leaky parts. If the engine surges, then you found your leak. I found out that my throttle body was missing its gasket this way.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    Your going to have to post more info. When it stopped running, do you mean the engine cut off or the transmission won't engage. When you turn the key, does anything happen? Does the car start? If so, how long does it run before cutting off?...Feel free to add as many detail as you can.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    That tube transports hot oil vapors to the engine intake. It's parts of the emissions system and has nothing to do with coolant (unless you've blown a head gasket).

    If you smell coolant, then either someone spilled coolant during a recent servicing or you have a leak that needs to be found and fixed before enough coolant leaks out to overheat your engine.
  • charbcharb Member Posts: 1
    My son just purchased a 2000 626 V6 with a 5-speed manual transmission. I have been looking just so I can feel good that he found a reliable car, and find all of this negative info about this vehicle's transmission problems. Just wondering...are the problems I read about associated with all transmissions in this car or just the automatic? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this for me.
  • joelleinjoellein Member Posts: 7
    I had the same question when I bought my used 2001 626 V6. My Mazda dealer (not where I bought the car) service manager told me it was just the automatic tranny.
  • a2sistemia2sistemi Member Posts: 1
    I have a Mazda 626 2.0tdi dated 1998, over 300.000Km Is an european model
    When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive,if I stop it an restart , even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down , and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand ho can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea
    Thanks a lot
    Alberto
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    There are no issues with the V6 manual transmissions. I have a '99 ES V6 5 speed with 196k miles and no problems with the manual transmission. The only problem I had was with the clutch master cylinder seals, which failed at about 130K and clutch pedal sank to the floor, making the car undriveable. . But this is a relatively inexpensive repair requiring either the cylinder rebuild or a new cylinder which costs about $ 100.
  • 626rock626rock Member Posts: 1
    Have the same issues with my 99LX and now my 2002 ES. Doesnt make a cuckoo noise, but rattles like crazy. Both car did/do the same thing. I agree with another poster that the strut towers seem to be the culprit. It is an annoying noise.
  • baffledinkybaffledinky Member Posts: 5
    Thank you very much, I understand the idea now. This should be very handy in troubleshooting my problem! :)
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    I too had those pesky gremlins in our DoubleOught 626 from day one. Dealer could Not reproduce in shop! The rattle is not constant but annoying non the less.80k
    had rear struts replaced,no change in rattle.Mechanic said "sounds like a loose
    body panel"
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    My daughter's 99 V6 has developed a surge when idling with the a/c on. Idle jumps from normal 750 range to 1700 (and as high as 2000) as the compressor cycles. No CEL is on, and there has not been any recent work on the car. Anyone else experienced this? The car has approx 120k. Timing belt was replaced at 105k as recommended in the book, along with the other belts. Car runs fine otherwise, and no surge is noticed while driving, just while at idle, in gear or park.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I never experienced that with my "99 ES V6 with 198K+ miles on it. The normal idle variation with A/C compressor cycling is about 700 -1000 RPM. My car has a 5 speed manual transmission.

    I believe there is an idle control valve on this car - you may have a problem in that area.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    I thought about the idle air control valve as a possibility. On my Explorer, when this part went out, the truck would just die at idle though.
  • mvperez4jesusmvperez4jesus Member Posts: 231
    I own a Mazda 626 LX V6 1998 and i have the following problems:
    for the past 4-5 years i had been getting the check engine light with the P1131 code. it is suppose to be an idicator of one of your oxygen sensors. I have replaced that Oxygen sensor in 4 occassions, and all of them twice already ever since. As i write i still get the light on. The light will go away for a few months but will return.
    It drives me crazy.

    The other problem is a noise that i guees is something lose in the back. Muffler? it makes a noise (its a metal). 2 dift. mechanics tried to solve the issues, but nothing. THey both said that it was not the suspension.

    third i have replaced the reservoir 3 times, and over heated 3 more times due to other leakeage. its a pain, since i don't know what is trigerring this. fans are working and thermostat is doing well.

    hesitation, high rpm's, bad fuel economy 12.5 city and 24 highway had been an issue from day one. used premium for all these years. not sure waht is wrong. i am sort of ready to sell this car, but if there was something to fix this one.

    i have seen that some people have posted to have the same problems and so on. also cars with 196000 miles on it. quite honestly, if i had that many in my car, i would not mind if my car broke on me. No disrispect, but i think that's a lot of miles on a car.

    but anyway, if anyone can help me, it will greatly appreciated. I only putting about 5000 miles per year lately, so if the car was to give an extra 2-3 yrs i wouldn't mind. specially as the economy goes. but if not, i wouldn't mind to pull the trigger on a accor 08 or a camry 09.

    power windows are the other issue, but i don't care so much about that one yet.

    my car is 115,600 miles.
  • e44e44 Member Posts: 10
    Hello p100 and thanks once again for your fabulous efforts in informing 626 owners about the ins and outs of car care.

    I have had no real issues with my 626, and I am quite pleased with the car. I do not do my own maintenance, but I have a mechanic who is a family friend and whose family has been in business in my area of Montreal for fifty years - he is fantastic.
    My car is the 2.0 L 4-cyl. with 5-speed. Some questions:

    Would this motor benefit from the injector cleaner, as your 2.4 does? What about the EGR passages with the 2.0 L? I would imagine the coolant overflow bottle is the same on my car, so I'll mention it to my mechanic. I would imagine the AC compressor is the same, so I'll keep an eye on that as well. The rest of what you mention is regular maintenance. I am really easy on the clutch, and it's friction point is still very close to the floorboard. I never ride the clutch or lug the car, two practices that must be followed to extend clutch life. My car currently is at 150 K km.

    My main concern is with the suspension. The roads in Montreal are horrendous, this city has to be the pothole capital of the world. I would love to upgrade the suspension to handle the brutal pounding on the chassis. Right now, I need bushings for the trapezoidal links in the rear (done 30 K km ago). I have done one CV, and there is a noise from the other one. My mechanic is suggesting new shocks, but the labor cost is high. Do you know of any high quality, heavy duty, lifetime guarantee stuff out there for the suspension? I would be willing to invest in new shocks, but what kind and is there a benefit, other than improved ride quality? Can you do two shocks at a time instead of all four in one shot?

    Thanks
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Yes, your injectors would benefit from using Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.

    The EGR passages on the 4 cylinder engine are probably different than on the 6 cylinder engine. The intake manifold has those passages as well, as it is definitely different on the V6 engine. The manifold passages appear to be the main culprit. Do not worry about these passages unless your engine check light comes on and you get the appropriate code for the "low EGR flow".

    The coolant overflow bottle is also different on the 6 cylinder, but is is entirely possible that it is made by the same company. Again do not worry about it unless you see a leak (coolant disappearing from the bottle).

    The A/C compressor may be the same and the problem I had was the bearing itself on the compressor clutch assembly pulley. I live in a very corrosive area, and park my car very close to the Atlantic ocean at work. So the car is exposed to salt spray that probably penetrated the bearing and shortened its life. The rest of the compressor looked very good when I disassembled it.

    As for the suspension, I think that Mazda OEM McPherson struts are quite good in quality, and relatively inexpensive. You can replace two at a time, provided it is a front or rear pair. When changing the front struts, also replace the upper mount bearings, which are plastic on these cars. They wear out and cause groaning noise when you make a sharp turn. When front and rear struts wear out, you will have decreased ride quality and most likely wheel hopping phenomenon, which often results in unpleasant vibration. So replacing the worn struts with new ones also helps keep the wheels firmly planted on the road, where they belong.

    As for CV joint boots, it is cheaper to replace the entire axle with good rebuilt units. It takes a while to remove each joint from the axle, and clean it out properly to reboot it. Labor being expensive, it is therefore cheaper to install a rebuilt unit. You can also find new CV axles at remarkably low prices. I found a set for $ 50/piece, and there was no core charge.

    Note: I am now about 750 miles away from the 200k mark with my car. Hopefully, it will make it to 200k without any incident. I recently cleaned the EGR passages. I had to remove the intake manifold and the EGR valve for this job and it was not pleasant. But it is done and hopefully good for a long time.
  • km_626km_626 Member Posts: 2
    I have a piece of Sh%t 2000 Mazda 6262 LX v6. I have the same problem. Take a look at the Emissions Control Valve. You can find the part for about $200 generally. As far as labor that depends on where you get it fixed.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Today I finally hit the 200k mile mark on my car (1999 ES V6, 5 speed manual transmission). I bought the car new and I am the only one who drives it. I still get 25-26 MPG city with A/C on.

    Hopefully it will continue serving me well.
  • e44e44 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks so much. I can see that you, like I, believe in maintaining your vehicle. People complain all the time about spending money on a car, however, cars are expensive. I purchased my '02 for in '06 for $9000, so at this price, I don't mind budgeting for maintenance. What would a new car cost on interest payments alone?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    If you finance about $20k over a 5 year loan with say 7% annual interest, you'll pay about $ 5,000 just in finance charges.
  • kew423kew423 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday as I was driving my car (100,333 miles on it) the power died and the clutch went all the way to the floor. The clutch doesn't seem to work now. Is this an issues with the master cylinder or transmission? Any idea if I will need a new clutch and the cost?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Most likely the internal clutch master cylinder seals failed. This only affects the clutch release hydraulic circuit, not the clutch itself. The same thing happened to my car at 130k miles. Mazda 626 does not have the best clutch master cylinders or slave cylinders. You need to either install a new master/slave cylinders, or have them rebuilt. Then you need to bleed the lines to get rid of trapped air. Do not let them talk to you into replacing the clutch without fixing the clutch release mechanism first!

    If you needed a new clutch, the cost of replacing one at a dealer (parts plus labor is about $ 800). This does not include replacing/rebuilding the master or slave cylinders. And it does not include machining or replacing the engine flywheel if it needs it.
Sign In or Register to comment.