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Is there a permanent and cheaper solution to resolving this noise from belt.
Thanks
Syed
Mazda at one time had a factory kit for these things, but it was pricey.
chances that this will fix the problem after it is rebuilt?
Was wondering if anyone knew what this means.. I took my 2005 mazda 626 to get tested and this was the result. PO133 = 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response(Bank 1, Sensor 1) and P1131 = Unknown Troble Code. I have no clue what it means please someone help me understand in plain and simple as possible
thanks.
Code P0133
Possible defects:
bad front 02 sensor
front 02 heater malfunction
loose front 02 sensor
pressure regulator malfunction
fuel pump malfunction
fuel filter clogged
fuel leakage
leaky exhaust sytem
purge solenoid valve malfunction (evaporative emissions system)
insufficient engine compression
engine defect--leaking coolant into engine.
I AM BAFFLED!!! Any suggestions??? Thank you for ANY advice.
PS the car runs fine untill I am on an incline or push the accelorator far enough to activate the passing gear...
Most of what I read regarding thermostat indicates the gauges moving to overheat states or not to normal temp. Could it be lacking water/antifreeze mix? or some other issues?
liketolearn
liketolearn
1. This engine (2.5 liter , 24 valve V6) likes premium 93 octane. It performs better and gets better fuel economy. I get 25-26 MPG consistently in city driving with A/C on all the time (in Florida). Do not use regular gas if you have this engine. Mazda recommends premium fuel for best performance and there is a reason for it. My car seems to like BP, Sunoco , and Mobil fuels the best for some reason. Stay away from no name brand gas stations.
2. Use a bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner in your gas tank about every 4k miles. Mix with approximately 8 gallons of gas and drive until the tank is almost empty. This cleaner does marvels when used regularly and keeps injectors clean. I have never had injectors cleaned int his car and the engine is silky smooth.
3. Change spark plug leads and spark plugs about every 60k miles. There is a good reason for this. The plugs are located in deep wells betweent he cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to very high temperatures, so they degrade over time. Use the recommended OEM Denso plugs. Bosh plugs are not recommended for these engines and do not perform too well in them. OEM Denso plugs are expensive, but you can get them at a much more reasonable cost from sparkplugs.com (about $ 7 per plug vs $ 19 per plug from your Mazda dealer). A set of OEM plug leads for the 6 cylinder is about $ 130 right now. I have fooud that the electrode gap on the spark plugs increases from 0.030 spec gap to 0.060 inches in about 60k miles. So replace the plugs every 60k.
4. This particular car has a design flaw with the EGR engine block passages. These passages are too narrow and get caked with carbon over time. The EGR valve itself is practically bulletproof - it is ab electrically ooperated, liquid cooled valve. If you get the engine code P400 (insufficient EGR flow), most often this means clogged EGR passaged throughout the engine block. The solution is to remove the throttle body, and the upper intake manifold, get a small caliber gun (like22) cleaning brush and throughly brush the ERG passage in the engine block and the intake manifold and liberally spray out with carburetor cleaner. You will need to replace one throttle body gasket, and two intake manifold gaskets, and well as two fuel banjo fitting copper washers. This is the only way to do this right. Cleaning only the EGR passage opening in the intake manifold just past the throttle body will work only for a while.
5. Coolant overflow bottle: This is a defective item on this model and Mazda should be ashamed that they sell such junk as a replacement part. I have installed 5 of these coolant overflow reservoirs on my car by now, because each lasts about 18 months before it develops a slow leak. Mazda dealer admits there is a problem and they keep these things in stock. The price is outrageous - about $ 90 list price.
6. Brakes are practically bulletproof on this model - I am on the second set of pads and still original brake rotors at 193K miles. There is still life left in the pads and rotors are not distorted or grooved.
7. There are no issues with the manual transaxle, but the clutch master cylinders are not that reliable - the seals in mine failed after 130k miles. When this happens, the clutch will not release and you cannot drive the car.
8. The A/C compressor clutch bearing failed on mine at 135 K miles and it destroyed the compressor shaft seal, so i had to buy a new compressor.
9. There OEM CV joints/axles are of low quality and upgrading them is a good idea.
10. Change oil frequently, and use only Mazda OEM oil filters or a good aftermarket filter with an anti drain membrane. This keeps the oil from draining from the cylinder head when the engine is shut off, preventing oil starvation of sensitive cam journal bearings when starting a cold engine.
11. Replacing the timing belt on this car is not easy and you should also replace the cam and front crank oil seal, water pump and all three tensioner timing belt pulleys. Auto Zone offers a timing belt kit for this car that contains all three tensioner pulleys and the belt for about $ 100. These pulleys from Mazda are outrageously expensive - they were about $ 180 a piece about 5 years ago. I replace the timing belt on this car every 105k miles, although they recommend it every 60k miles. However, Mazda sells only one timing belt - and it is a 105k miles belt, as some state require the timing belt replacement interval to be that.
My engine runs strong at 193k miles - I see no degradation in mileage or performance. The engine does not use oil and does not smoke upon startup. I am still on the original radiator, alternator, and starter. The original paint is of excellent quality and still shiny after all these years in harsh Florida sun. Of course, I wash the car frequently by hand and use ZipCar wash wax containing soap, which keeps the paint looking like new.
-Fans work
-Coolant full
she owns a 96 626, on friday it started shaking a little, we thought it was just due to it being a bit overdue for a tuneup so on saturday I gave it the treatment, plugs, wires, cap rotor, filters etc. well it didnt fix the problem the car idles like crap and wont stay at steady RPM fluctuating between 500 and 750 and dying out, funny thing is that once i get it on the road it rides really really good no issues no sputtering, no hesitation, runs like a dream. check engine light was on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a misfire but I check and rechecked every ignition component with no luck. so again car runs near excellent at speed but Idles really bad. can anyone help?
You might check for a bad vacuum leak somewhere. That would give you all the symptoms you mention as well as correct itself at highway speeds.
Also a clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve or tubing.
thanks again.
Use carb cleaner to spray shots around suspected leaky parts. If the engine surges, then you found your leak. I found out that my throttle body was missing its gasket this way.
If you smell coolant, then either someone spilled coolant during a recent servicing or you have a leak that needs to be found and fixed before enough coolant leaks out to overheat your engine.
When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive,if I stop it an restart , even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down , and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand ho can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea
Thanks a lot
Alberto
had rear struts replaced,no change in rattle.Mechanic said "sounds like a loose
body panel"
I believe there is an idle control valve on this car - you may have a problem in that area.
for the past 4-5 years i had been getting the check engine light with the P1131 code. it is suppose to be an idicator of one of your oxygen sensors. I have replaced that Oxygen sensor in 4 occassions, and all of them twice already ever since. As i write i still get the light on. The light will go away for a few months but will return.
It drives me crazy.
The other problem is a noise that i guees is something lose in the back. Muffler? it makes a noise (its a metal). 2 dift. mechanics tried to solve the issues, but nothing. THey both said that it was not the suspension.
third i have replaced the reservoir 3 times, and over heated 3 more times due to other leakeage. its a pain, since i don't know what is trigerring this. fans are working and thermostat is doing well.
hesitation, high rpm's, bad fuel economy 12.5 city and 24 highway had been an issue from day one. used premium for all these years. not sure waht is wrong. i am sort of ready to sell this car, but if there was something to fix this one.
i have seen that some people have posted to have the same problems and so on. also cars with 196000 miles on it. quite honestly, if i had that many in my car, i would not mind if my car broke on me. No disrispect, but i think that's a lot of miles on a car.
but anyway, if anyone can help me, it will greatly appreciated. I only putting about 5000 miles per year lately, so if the car was to give an extra 2-3 yrs i wouldn't mind. specially as the economy goes. but if not, i wouldn't mind to pull the trigger on a accor 08 or a camry 09.
power windows are the other issue, but i don't care so much about that one yet.
my car is 115,600 miles.
I have had no real issues with my 626, and I am quite pleased with the car. I do not do my own maintenance, but I have a mechanic who is a family friend and whose family has been in business in my area of Montreal for fifty years - he is fantastic.
My car is the 2.0 L 4-cyl. with 5-speed. Some questions:
Would this motor benefit from the injector cleaner, as your 2.4 does? What about the EGR passages with the 2.0 L? I would imagine the coolant overflow bottle is the same on my car, so I'll mention it to my mechanic. I would imagine the AC compressor is the same, so I'll keep an eye on that as well. The rest of what you mention is regular maintenance. I am really easy on the clutch, and it's friction point is still very close to the floorboard. I never ride the clutch or lug the car, two practices that must be followed to extend clutch life. My car currently is at 150 K km.
My main concern is with the suspension. The roads in Montreal are horrendous, this city has to be the pothole capital of the world. I would love to upgrade the suspension to handle the brutal pounding on the chassis. Right now, I need bushings for the trapezoidal links in the rear (done 30 K km ago). I have done one CV, and there is a noise from the other one. My mechanic is suggesting new shocks, but the labor cost is high. Do you know of any high quality, heavy duty, lifetime guarantee stuff out there for the suspension? I would be willing to invest in new shocks, but what kind and is there a benefit, other than improved ride quality? Can you do two shocks at a time instead of all four in one shot?
Thanks
The EGR passages on the 4 cylinder engine are probably different than on the 6 cylinder engine. The intake manifold has those passages as well, as it is definitely different on the V6 engine. The manifold passages appear to be the main culprit. Do not worry about these passages unless your engine check light comes on and you get the appropriate code for the "low EGR flow".
The coolant overflow bottle is also different on the 6 cylinder, but is is entirely possible that it is made by the same company. Again do not worry about it unless you see a leak (coolant disappearing from the bottle).
The A/C compressor may be the same and the problem I had was the bearing itself on the compressor clutch assembly pulley. I live in a very corrosive area, and park my car very close to the Atlantic ocean at work. So the car is exposed to salt spray that probably penetrated the bearing and shortened its life. The rest of the compressor looked very good when I disassembled it.
As for the suspension, I think that Mazda OEM McPherson struts are quite good in quality, and relatively inexpensive. You can replace two at a time, provided it is a front or rear pair. When changing the front struts, also replace the upper mount bearings, which are plastic on these cars. They wear out and cause groaning noise when you make a sharp turn. When front and rear struts wear out, you will have decreased ride quality and most likely wheel hopping phenomenon, which often results in unpleasant vibration. So replacing the worn struts with new ones also helps keep the wheels firmly planted on the road, where they belong.
As for CV joint boots, it is cheaper to replace the entire axle with good rebuilt units. It takes a while to remove each joint from the axle, and clean it out properly to reboot it. Labor being expensive, it is therefore cheaper to install a rebuilt unit. You can also find new CV axles at remarkably low prices. I found a set for $ 50/piece, and there was no core charge.
Note: I am now about 750 miles away from the 200k mark with my car. Hopefully, it will make it to 200k without any incident. I recently cleaned the EGR passages. I had to remove the intake manifold and the EGR valve for this job and it was not pleasant. But it is done and hopefully good for a long time.
Hopefully it will continue serving me well.
If you needed a new clutch, the cost of replacing one at a dealer (parts plus labor is about $ 800). This does not include replacing/rebuilding the master or slave cylinders. And it does not include machining or replacing the engine flywheel if it needs it.