Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Unfortunately, it doesn't have ABS and the car will be where it snows. Other than that potential problem, what other mechanical problems can I expect from this car and what is a realistic life of the car? Should I buy something like this or a Saturn? Thanks
I passed up ABS on my current 626, and on the last one, and on the snowy days we had, I didn't find any reason to regret not having it.
You're not getting the dreaded blinking O/D Off light, are you?
If the power supply to the computer is erratic (and the alternator acting up because of a loose belt, or whatever reason, is the very model of erratic), the computer is apt to do all sorts of weird things, none of which the driver will like.
good luck with your problem.
preparing my CD4E for a few more miles, drive it around for a while, install
a new instrument panel (the previous one having been stolen by the police),
go to start my car, and then nothing, the stereo comes on, the little dinger dings,
the lights come on, but when I push the key forward to the start position, nothing
happens. Well, earlier in the month I had wrestled with a Viper 600ESP I didn't
know was installed because it had abruptly decided that I had stolen the car
and it didn't want to start (I just removed the alarm computer and kept the ignition
interrupt in and it worked), so I took the dash off again and started playing with
the wires, looking for disconnected wires, grounds that didn't ground, that sort
of thing. I find nothing. I start playing with the shifter, putting it in neutral, shifting
to park, all the while attempting to start my car. Nothing. After about 45 minutes
of messing with it, I got annoyed and started messing with the battery, checking
to see that all those big thick cables coming from it were in good condition, that
theywere bolted well to those place to which they are bolted, checking for
corrosion, nothing, the car still wouldn't start. Then I sat in the car, did my
homework, listened to the radio, for about a half hour. Then, on a whim, I turn
the key. Vroom, it starts.
That was the first time. I've been struggling with it for about three weeks, not
having the time or the money to seriously attempt to fix the problem. I've
checked my manual, and it tells me to make sure the wires to the solenoid
are in good condition. Well, the solenoid is below my exhaust manifold,
above an exhaust line, and generally in a completely inaccessible position.
As the weeks have gone by I've more clearly defined the parameters of the
malfunction, but not to my satisfaction.
After the car gets good and warmed up, about thirty minutes or more of
driving, it won't start back up. The solenoid doesn't even click. After what
seems to be a random amount of waiting time, generally 30 to 120
minutes, it will start again, and continue to start again (I turn off, turn
back on).
The main problem I have is that the problem is difficult to reproduce, I
can't seem to do it on demand. It doesn't appear to have anything to
do with the car warming up, I've idled it to operating temperature and
the problem doesn't appear. This has made it too inconvenient, so far,
to use a voltmeter to check if voltage goes to the solenoid. I've still got
some more voltmeter work to do betweent he key and the solenoid.
So, does anybody (recognize/have experience with) my problem?
Should I get a priest?
I'm putting my bet on the neutral start switch, though. If either or both of the P or N positions is even slightly out of alignment - and you did have some recent tranny work, right? - the car will start only if the switch component just happens to have slid into a (marginal) contact position.
Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone have advice on what it might be? Thanks!
So my question is: Are the switches going bad, and if yes, can they be replaced? Or is the problem an indication that the moonroof motor is going bad? Would appreciate your expertise regarding this matter. Thanks.
Each of these switches, though, has a relay, and I suspect it's more likely a relay that's acting up. (Those, too, are replaceable.)
We bought a 2000 MPV, which had a front end problem since the day we bought it (pulled to the left) took it back to the dealer seven times, finally had to hire an attorney that handles the "Lemon Law". After a year of stress, we won the case. I took my MPV back to the dealer and I was given my money back.
Now on to my 626, I commute to work 120 miles round trip so I thought I bought myself a reliable commuter car, the engine light would come on and go off, I take my car to a mechanic. The mechanic at the shop runs the car on a scope, gets some readings and never figured it was the transmission that was getting ready to go out.
To make a long story short I was taken again my Mazda, I didn't know I was buying a Ford product! very misleading.
I notified my attorney as well as an attorney that handles consumer fraud. They are both interested in this case. If you are interested in a class action suit, please contact me.
I do not want to be stuck with my 626, I owe appox $9,000.00.
Thanks very much.
There aren't any real '93-specific issues; the standard aging-626 stuff applies no less - and no more - than usual. This would include deteriorating CV boots, weeping from the valve-cover gasket (both of these easy fixes), fairly crummy weatherstripping, and the usual HLA noises (see below). This was, I believe, the last year for R-12 in the 626's A/C, so checking for refrigerant leaks is advisable.
Are any of these problems related to "weeping" valve cover gasket, or do you have ideas if these problems are going to cost big $ to repair? I was not sure what you meant by weeping valve cover gasket.
Any adidtional info you could give based on the symptoms i describe would be great. I guess I am a little worried that the tranny is gonna give out on me soon, and no one in Boston wants to be stranded on a cold/snowy winter evening!
If oil is actually being burned - do you see any traces of it in the exhaust? - that's another issue entirely. Mere smells could mean, for instance, a leak around the oil-pressure sensor, which tends to drip onto an exhaust pipe. (Another cheap fix.)
There is no white/black smoke coming from the tail pipe. If I have a mechanic repair the valve cover gasket, and change spark plugs and wires, how much do you think it may cost. Am I pushing it expecting the car to go to 160K?
I have talked to about 10 differant mechanics about this problem,no one knows what it is! So I took it to Mazda to see what they had to say. They where not any help either. The only error code that turned up on the computer was a 452 code
which was for a speed sensor. No one felt like this was the problem since this really has nothing to do with the shifting of the car.I have read in your postings similar problems with the 95 626Lx about that it might be a Range Sensor. Can some one please help me with this problem since it seems to be a tough one. Thanks Bellew
The rear flapper works just fine but the slider doesn't work at all. Being that the flapper works, the problem must not be a motor issue. I've talked to a couple of Mazda dealers and they've informed me that it could be a snapped cable or that the alignment may be off. Nontheless, I was also told that if this were the case, the repair could run as much as $2k because they would have to completely disassemble and reassemble the moonroof all together to do the repair right.
If possible, could you please offer me any insight about my moonroof problem. Summer is around the corner and I'd sure like to get it working without investing the big dollars. Thanks.
The first question is "Is there a noise when you hit the Slide switch?" If not, I would consider the possibility that the Slide switch itself is simply not working. That (and the associated relay) would be first on my list of things to check, and I don't believe access to either of these things requires complete disassembly of the moonroof. (This is in keeping with my philosophy of "Check the cheap stuff first.")
Now, if you do hear some activity, then they may be right, and they may indeed have to perform this invasive surgery to set everything straight.
Each of those other three is a discrete switch position. Intermittent operation, as I understand it, requires not only a switch position but also a variable resistor of some sort to adjust the time between wipes. This is similar to the climate-control blower which, if its resistor goes, will blow at only one speed: high - which happened to me on the one and only Toyota I owned. ('75 Celica, for the historians.) Not a difficult fix, except perhaps for part access (if this thing is buried in the steering column).
Just wondering about the engine tick mentioned here so often. Bought my 626 3 yrs. back for 4K at an auction. At the time I heard the ticking sound and got kind of nervous but almost 90,000 miles later have learned to live with it.
Is the only way to remedy this ticking problem is change the oil filter and synthetic oil ? is there anything else I can do and is this a serious problem ? One last thing - which synthetic oil should I use ? Thanx all,
J.
My first question is: Can this sensor really imobilize my car like this?
Second: Could I be lucky enough to find it outside the instrument cluster or at least available separately?
I just bought this car for my wife about two months ago. She is learning to drive so I chose an older car she would not be afraid to drive. It has 117,000 miles and looks great for a ten-year-old, especially for original silver paint in Phoenix.
I drive a Mazda 626 ESV6, year 2000 model. It has roughly 30000 miles on it. I am having a strange problem for the past few months. Some times the car just won't start. I mean even the starter motor won't run. When I turn the key in the ignition, there's no sound or starting whatsoever. I had to get it towed to the dealer once just because it won't start. It happened about 4 times till date in the past 3 months. Thrice it started all by itself after waiting for 10-15 minutes. But the fourth time I had to get it towed. The version of the dealer was this: "The alarm went off some how which disabled the car and all I have to do is lock and unlock the car." Ofcourse I have tried that even before I went to the dealer and it didn't work. Did any body else have this problem? Please let me know. This is driving me crazy as I don't know at what moment this car will die on me and to think it's brand new. Thanks in advance for any help.
-Vamsi
This engine doesn't have any particular propensity for blowing head gaskets, either. I mean, obviously it's possible, but it's not a common occurrence in normal operation. (My personal experiences don't count for much, but thanks to the Net, I hear from a startlingly-high percentage of 626 owners, and this is a rare complaint.)
Is the idle jumping up and down (per the tach), or rock-solid?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've blown three head gaskets in my day, none on any Mazda, and I've never had to replace an engine.