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If nothing else is going on, the computer may decide that it's a temporary glitch and blow it off - under some conditions, if an intermittent problem doesn't recur, the standard allows for the code to be erased - but if the light stays on, I'd have it looked at when you get around to your 60k service. (At the very least, you need an oil change and a timing belt.)
Now if it starts flashing, don't wait.
Next week, I will take it in to my usual Mazda dealer for a Lube/oilchg and ask them to read the codes also if the CEL is still on. thanks
And let it be stated here that I've never heard tell of a timing belt actually breaking on one of these cars until quite a bit past 60k; this may be Mazda's attempt to respond to California's attempts to suspend the laws of physics. (In the Golden State, timing belts last 105k miles; the Assembly says so.)
Not being a litiginous person, I have no idea what my legal rights may be, but I still owe too much money on this car to feel that this tranny problem is something I should have to deal with. I went into this purchase with a ton of Mazda loyalty, my 1989 323 is still in my driveway with 170K miles on it and it has been nothing but reliable, although understandably it is now older and tired.
I have little faith that this problem will ever be put right, and I basically want my money back.
If anyone has any suggestions for me, they would be very much appreciated.
I have a manual transmission. It works well. If the car you want has an automatic, smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, or is any shade darker than a bright pink. Go the other way, or ask for a 2,000 reduction (the cost of a replacement transmission)
Timing belts probably should be changed every 60,000 miles. My shocks had to be replaced at 80,000 miles.
Mine has 115,000 miles and aside from steering repairs caused by an accident on Ice, and some normal maintenence items, it's been very good. It's a fun car to drive.
It has about 36,000 miles. I have changed the oil every 5000, did the 30,000 mile service on schedule, and have had the transmission replaced under warranty. I believe the new tranny to be rebuilt.
I wonder whether to cut my losses now, and trade it in while I can get something for it. The car is nice, sunroof, alloy wheels, roomy, clean. We have garage kept it, polished the paint like new.
So why trade it in? BECAUSE OF THE STUPID FORD TRANSMISSION! (sorry) I think I can get $10,000 or so.
Has anyone had a positive experience with this car and transmision? What % fail? We thought it slipped the other day, but no. Next time we'll get a Honda.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am wondering how much will it costs.
I guess it is more valid to ask how much the parts cost and how many hours of labor will it take since labor rate is $75 at the dealer in my area.
I know it depends on how you drive but in general, how long would a clutch last on the V6s based on your experience?
Recently, I found that it's quite rough to start my car. After I left my car to the dealer for two days to repair a fan switch, it's getting worse. I don't mean that the car cannot start. Just that after I turn the key, the engine or the car ( I couldn't tell) trembles and knocks loud before it's started. But if the engine is warm (after a short trip), it starts quieter and smoother.
What could be the problem?
Do I need to go to get the fuel injection system cleaned?
Thanks!
I just purchased a 1990 Mazda 626 DX Sedan with 103,000 miles a few months ago for $2300.00. (Too high?) My mechanic (whom I purchased the car from) put in a used transmission (30,000 miles on it)- which is still under warranty. I also purchased all new engine mounts for the car as well (almost $500 bucks).
Besides the check engine light always on (which my mechanic said it's "nothing to worry about") and the shaking that happens when my car's in drive (but not in park) my question has to do with a transmission gasket that I recently learned from Jiffy Lube, that's leaking...
Is the trans. gasket part of the actual transmission? Or is that something I'll have to pay extra for? And if so, how much?
Appreciate the help,
Jolene
They always notify you of leaks no matter how slight. Sometimes they are not serious.
Another time, they discovered a major oil leak from my valve covers that I hadn't noticed before. Oil levels had dropped a quart in 3 weeks. I got the gasket replaced and it stopped.
Did Jiffy report that your Tranny fluid levels were low? If they didn't it might be a slight leak. Put a piece of cardboard under the tranny overnight and see if there is some dripping. It it's serious take it in.
I would also take it in in a week to have the level checked again. If it is normal then check it once a month.
It is a part of the transmission? It might as well be. A normal service on most transmissions requires removal and replacement of the gasket. If it leaks and causes significant loss of fluid it will ruin the transmission.
could be a weak spark.
Josie5 - you bought it from a mechanic? I would say there should be nothing wrong with it. If there is, take it back to him/her and tell them to fix it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It's a shame you're having problems, but that is not necessarily grounds to condemn the entire 626 line. I happen to have a 97 with the V-6, and it has been virtually flawless. I looked at the Camry at the time I bought this car, but found the Toyota to be far too expensive with the V-6, as well as being really boring to look at and drive.
To each his own.......
As for recommendations on how to fix your problem, I'd consult a qualified technician. You might end up spending more swapping out parts on your own than you would having someone familiar with the car diagnosing the problem.
How many miles on your car? Has the timing belt been changed?
If your regular mechanic can't find the starting problem, find an automotive electric specialist. They can diagnose and repair difficult things like this better.
Put 150 miles on the Mazda just yesterday. Just as much fun to drive as the first day I got it.
1000 mi past warranty just my luck right. anyway,
this is what happened first the tranny started to shift real hard(like a shift kit) then the check engine light came on. this happened on the freeway. I got off the next exit.checked all fluids checked good.when I exited the parking lot
I noticed the car was taking off in 2nd gear not 1st. The Dealer wanted to charge me customer pay.
I complained to the Service manager and got it fixed under warranty thank god. this tranny is not cheap try $2700.. I talked to the mechanic and he told me the Protoge, Pick ups, SUV, Minivan
have Ford trannys. The Miata and Millinea have
Japan made tranmissions. My confidence in my car has been rattled. good luck to my fellow mazda owners.
The Trib and the US B-series trucks have all-Ford powertrains.
The MPV has a Ford Duratec engine coupled to Mazda's GF4A-EL tranny. (No, I don't know why.)
I suspect anyone who swore by Japanese-built transmissions would swear something else after dealing with a couple of Mitsubishis.
Also the brakes have a loud squeal to them. What is the best maintenance for this?
Brake squeal is usually an indication of pad wear, in which case the fix is to replace the pads.
My son's 1997 had this problem. The air flow was listed as wrong. They replaced the Oxygen Sensors and it ran fine for about 3 weeks. It went on again with the same codes. This time we took it into a Mazda Specialist. They said that they regularly have a problem with the Mass Air Sensor located just behind the air filter. They cleaned it up for $35.00 bucks. If it acts up again, then we will have to get it replaced.
Those stupid sensors are expensive, but a necessary part of a very low emission vehicle.
My 1991 has steering that works great. Never needed anything.
Have there been many others with power steering issues?
Frankly I didn't know it should be done regularly until recently.
And I'd like to second the recommendation for probetalk.com. It is a valuable resource for anyone with a third- or fourth-generation ('88-'97) 626.
I am new to this board. I have a '90 626 that recently has begun to idle badly after the car is warmed up. While it is cold, the fast idle prevents the problem - although even then it's not perfect - but once it's warm the engine idles rough, inconsistent (up & down), and it has even stalled on me once or twice. A lot of times it nearly stalls, but recovers before it actually does. It is a 5-speed. Has anyone on this board ever had this problem and what is the fix? Thank you
Mary Kay
I changed the fluid on my Mazda when smelled the difference between 2 of my cars, and one that had the power steering pump replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It is a stinky fluid anyway, but the older ones, especially the Mazda smelled burnt, and looked a little bit cloudy. I put in lubegard for about $7.00 USD and spend about $50.00 to have the powersteering flushed.
It seems to work a bit smoother, and anything that I can do to save a power steering pump repair is helpful. On my Dodge, it went out 3 times. Fluid all over the road, and steering really hard, before they finally got a pump that held up OK.
With good reason. It was the air conditioner bearing. The two in some models, this is an auto tranny with a 2.0 engine, are right next to each other. As it stands right now the air conditioner compressor is being replaced at 62,000 miles. Our mechanic is eating the cost for the steering repair. Their view is that they won't charge for an unnecessary repair. However we do have to pay another $235.00 for a new air conditioner. Total repair $635.00.
Have the air conditioners declined in quality? Is the new R-132 coolant more corrosive? My 1991 with R-12 coolant has had nothing more in five years than adding 8 ounces of coolant. And I have double his mileage.
Don