Mazda 626 Troubles

mrdetailer · August 2001

I just replaced my original equipment front struts at 115,000 miles. It's been 10 years so I guess I can't really complain, but what's been others experience about how long struts last?

scooter64 · August 2001

I have a '97 626 LX Auto, which had the engine light come on at 52,000 miles. My neighbor has the computer diag. unit and determined that it was a problem with a sensor at the catalytic converter. Has anyone else had the same problem? He turned the light out and it has never come on again (1 month has passed). By the way, is the '97 noted for any specific (major) problems?

mrdetailer · August 2001

You want to consider cleaning the Mass Air Sensor located just behind the air filter. My Mazda mechanic (20 years experience) says that this is a common problem. My son's 1997 had to have this done at 62,000 miles.

Obviously baby the tranny. We flushed and replaced my son's and it now works great. We also added Lubegard.

mrdetailer · August 2001

You want to consider cleaning the Mass Air Sensor located just behind the air filter. My Mazda mechanic (20 years experience) says that this is a common problem. My son's 1997 had to have this done at 62,000 miles.

Obviously baby the tranny. We flushed and replaced my son's fluid, and it now works great. We also added Lubegard.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

Since Mazda doesn't have 25k service intervals - everything is geared to 30/60/90 - this seems specious. In the pre-OBD II days, I could believe this, maybe. Not on a '97.

mrdetailer · August 2001

It was due to bad oxygen sensors at 60,000, and due to the bad MAS at 62,000.

mark38l · August 2001

I'm hoping someone can help me before I take this to the dealer.

1998 Mazda 626 LX 62,500 miles (bought new)

Issue #1 Check engine light has been on for about 1,500 miles (It has been on before and goes out after a week or so).

#2 Radio/CD stoped working LCD display on radio is out. When the headlights are on the buttons light up.

#3 Dome light is out. When I manually move the switch to the on position the door open light on the dash goes on it goes off after about 30 seconds.

#4 The trip odometer resets to 0

#5 When the car is turned on the the defroster button is on.

#6 When I turn on the car it cranks way too long when it starts it has a rough idle for about 45 seconds.

#7 The power door lock switch only works when the car is on or the key is in the assecory position.

#8 The remote for the alarm and the trunk release no longer works.

#9 Since this happen the check engine light has gone out.

All these things happened at once. then radio stopped working and then I notice all the other problems.

Could it be something is not grounded?

If someone can give me a general idea I would greatly appricate it. I shudder to think what the Mazda dealer will tell me.

Thanks for any and all help

Mark

ian18 · August 2001

The air bag dashboard warning light on my '93 626 V6 ES came on yesterday. Has this happened to anyone else who might be able to provide some insight into possible causes? Any info I can get before I take it in to the dealer would be greatly appreciated.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

Is it flashing, or on continuously? If it stays on, the problem is at the SRS diagnostic module itself - probably a loose connection, though it could be a wiring-harness issue. If it flashes, then the flashes indicate a code, just like the CEL, which will point to the offending component(s).

windowphobe6 · August 2001

Could be a ground, or it could be that the alternator is no longer keeping the battery up to snuff, and all the components competing for power (which would be darn near everything these days) are getting shortchanged in the voltage department.

ian18 · August 2001

Thanks for the quick feedback! The light flashes on twice then off for a bit, then flashes twice again and repeats. This '93 626 just has the one air bag on the driver's side.

Additional ideas are very appreciated.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

There's an array of sensors and controls as part of the SRS; code 22 (if that's what it is) points towards the S-sensor (the innermost). It is unlikely that it's the air bag itself that's acting up.

korchma · August 2001

Hello!
My factory warranty for 626 (2000) is about to expire and, naturally, I was wondering if it's worth to buy an extended one (like Warrantybynet or Warrantygold).
Anybody has an experience with those or similar services?
Annually I do approx. 22k highway miles and I have auto 4 cyl in my car (that I love a lot).

I'll appreciate any feedback !

Thank you!

scooter64 · August 2001

MRDETAILER,
Thanks for the heads-up on the Mass Airflow Sensor. Do you have any idea how to clean this beast? My previous car, a crappy '96 Jetta, had to have it replaced at a cost of $400. I don't want to go throught THAT again!
Could the Mass Airflow Sensor be causing problems or confusion with the sensor at the catalytic converter?
By the way, I had the tranny fluid changed when the transmission shop replaced the main seal. It was leaking a bit. Cost me $300 to get it fixed with a $5.00 part. All labor! However, I feel much better about the thing now that I don't have to keep track of the fluid all the time.

mrdetailer · August 2001

No, I don't know how to do that, but my Mazda specialist cleaned it for 35 bucks, ($70.00 diagnosis)so it shouldn't be that bad. I asked the car dealer about mechanics who used to work there, and they gave me his name and address.

scooter64 · August 2001

Thanks!

johnny01 · August 2001

Hey - the following link is a shady tree mechanic's MAF sensor cleaning directions. I haven't tried it yet.

http://www.geocities.com/adamk01452/MAF2.html

scooter64 · August 2001

Hey, thanks for the info. Looks like a great site for those without a manual! I'll have to try this cleaning method in the event I have the problem. Sounds like an easy fix.

mrdetailer · August 2001

No wonder the repair was cheap. It looks like you just spray.

mrdetailer · August 2001

Is he crazy. I've driven a car with a Mitsu engine, seen the ratings in consumer reports, and what's more important seen crash results, both by reviewing the tests, and in real life. Here is the last of the articles.

http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/45498/article.html

For me it would be a no brainer. Mazda all the way, especially when it was only 500 bucks difference.

626manual · August 2001

Well, I'm going down the Interstate yesterday when my engine decides to die on my '93 626 ES (107k mi.). My radio and headlights still worked but my engine didn't. Luckily, I was right before an off-ramp and was able to get my car to the top of the ramp by coasting (weird and scary feeling).

The mechanic said that my battery was basically dead due to a weak alternator. He said I needed to get that fixed but I should be able to drive on a new battery for at least a week. I got the car started with the new battery but hadn't gotten more than a quarter mile before the engine died again. I got it started but it died again about a minute later.

Is this mechanic right or is there something worse going on here? I'm scared to death of taking the car back on the highway.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

If it's the alternator, "weak" is putting it mildly.

There's a distributor issue on '93s. More precisely, there's an issue with the ignition module, which is integrated with the distributor in these cars. http://www.bradbury.cwc.net/probemx/p_p4.htm has the gory details.

fromatoz · August 2001

my car's headlights went dead yesterday, before driving to dealer's store, may i ask what's likely the cause?

* I found them dead at the same time
* all other lights are working
* is it easy to change the bulbs by myself if it's because of dead bulbs.

thanks for any help.

fromatoz · August 2001

forget to mention my car is Mazda 626 ES 1993.

thanks.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

Then it's probably not the bulbs themselves, but the switch that controls them - or a fuse that may have blown, in which case you need to find out what caused the fuse to blow.

qbrozen · August 2001

well, to put it bluntly, that mechanic is an idiot. I would not go back to him if I were you. A car dying while running down the road has absolutely NOTHING to do with the battery. A battery gets your car started and THAT'S IT. Once your car is running, the alternator is what supplies all the juice (and recharges your battery on top of that).

626manual · August 2001

I agree. I was in a part of town where I knew no one and I don't have a mechanic. He did tow it back to my place on Saturday, after putting in a new alternator. I plan on having it towed to a mechanic my friend recommended. I was pretty stressed about the whole ordeal and really wasn't thinking straight. Well, now I have a new alternator which was not needed. Great.

I think windowphobe6 probably nailed it. That's a pretty expensive fix but my car still isn't costing me a monthly car payment, yet.

mark38l · August 2001

My 1998 Mazda 626LX with 63,000 appears to have a toasted clutch (just made it into my driveway).

For the past week when putting into gear the engine would rev way past 5,000 RPM in the past 2 days it quickly got worse to the point were it is now.

#1. Is 63,000 miles about the time to replace the clutch anyways?

#2. How much $$$ should is expect to part with for this.

#3. Anyone elese with a manual transmission experice the same problems if so how at how many miles?

Thank you for any and all help

Mark

windowphobe6 · August 2001

A lot depends on one's driving style, but the last time I had a stick shift, I finished off a clutch about every 70,000 miles, so 63,000 doesn't seem too far out of line. Bradbury (whom I have quoted elsewhere in this thread) says 55k to 65k is typical on these cars.

The major expense is not the clutch itself, but the five or six hours it takes to install it.

626manual · August 2001

I took it to a REAL mechanic today and he called me around 5; my timing belt snapped. Seeing that I had it changed around 58k and I lose it at 107k, I'm pretty pissed. They're going to get back to me tomorrow to see if I did any other damage...unreal.

mrdetailer · August 2001

I wonder if you have cam and crankshaft leaks that could have weakened the belt. Repair costs on belts are expensive. Replace the above cam and crankshaft seals as well as replace the water pump. With that mileage on it, the water pump probably won't last. My Mazda dealer orders replacement water pumps regularly. Save duplicate laber.

avelectro · August 2001

mrdetailer:

I just replaced mine at 10 years ('91 GT) and 117,000 miles. They were making noise over speed bumps and I found the rubber spring seats were cracking and squishing out of place. I bought KYB GR-2s from BAP and so far they feel like OE.

Dave

mrdetailer · August 2001

Thanks for the response. I had pretty settled on the KYB GR-2's since I wanted a performance shock. Good to hear that someone else is happy with them.

flamazda · August 2001

OK, bought a new 626 with a 2.0 liter unit and automatic. Seemed OK for a few hundred miles, then started to 'miss' or 'surg' frequently (independent of A/C compressor) over 45 MPH. Worse in morning until warm. Dealer saids its 'normal'--that I'm sensitive to a fuel trim condition. Passengers need Dramamine--any ideas on what/where to check (no codes or engine lights on), or do I need a 6 cylinder?

windowphobe6 · August 2001

(I always wanted to say that.)

This doesn't sound too normal to me. Around 45 mph, you're at the point where the torque converter is locking/unlocking, which isn't the most seamless of operations but doesn't really feel like either a surge or a miss. (The A/C makes its presence known, but, at least on my car, it's barely noticeable.) And anyway, if the fuel trim were enough out of whack to push the oxygen sensor out of range, you'd get a code of some sort. Maybe I'm just, um, insensitive, but I'm not buying this.

The gas pedal on these things seems a bit hyperactive to me; if you're going over a teensy rise, the subsequent descent may jar your foot ever so slightly, and the transmission will duly interpret this as a request, whether you wanted it to or not. If your roads are as crummy as ours, maybe this is what's happening to you, in which case you probably should move.

flamazda · August 2001

Thanks for the feedback. Glad to say our most of our roads here are new--many smooth as silk. Doesn't seem like an overdrive shift point, is worse around 50-55 MPH. Drove another one today--I really have a problem, now IF I can just get the folks downtown to fess up and try to really find the non-code part. Probably something simple--e.g., gas filter, sensor, plug wire, or something major--e.g., transmission slipping, etc.--was just wondering what (if anything) has been the most frequent item causing (or could cause) this type of problem. One other thing I have noticed, it doesn't seem as bad until it does go into the top gear (about 45,46)and the RPM's drop.

mrdetailer · August 2001

Go to a Napa Store. Buy Lubegard for Automatic Trannies. I believ that this only costs $20.00. Have the equivalent amount to AT fluid drained and put it in. Drive it for a week or 2 and see if it doesn't fix the issue.

My Mazda mechanic has done this to Mazda transmissions for 20 years. He believes that it avoids most automatic transmission problems.

If it still has the problem you have protected your transmission anyway. Change fluid and readd lubegard every 15,000 miles.

windowphobe6 · August 2001

At this point, I'm more inclined to suspect a nonelectronic component; more specifically, I'm thinking miniscule vacuum leak somewhere, which is being compensated for as much as possible but evidently not completely.

Could it be the transmission? Maybe. Even with recent upgrades, this is still not one of the sturdiest of slushboxes. And stretching out its lifespan has to be considered a Good Thing, even if it's not the immediate problem.

flamazda · August 2001

Thanks for the inputs, now for the fun part--hope I can fix the problem, its only got 3,700 miles.

liuqy · August 2001

thanks anyone's suggestion on the Mazda front strut repair or replace, the price of the part.

mrdetailer · August 2001

along with the strut mounts. Struts were about $250 with labor, and Strut mounts were another 300 if I remember correctly. It was done in conjunction with other repairs.

rmordhorst · August 2001

After reading enough messages on the failure of the 1994 and later Mazda 626 CD4E automatic transmission failures, I am despondent. My transmission is spilling fluid from the vent. Am I really faced with a complete rebuild or is the replacement of the redesigned pump plate and gasket a smaller job costing less? (cf. Message 17). Would a flush perhaps cure this problem?

windowphobe6 · August 2001

Installing the new pump plate/gasket is indeed a smaller and less costly job, but that's not necessarily what's wrong with it. I suspect some other seal may have gone south. (This doesn't automatically mean "rebuild" either.) And no, a flush won't help.

wjm1 · August 2001

My 94 626 ES developed this about a month ago - if I turn on the right blinker, while on the brake pedal, it flashes way faster then usual.
Like if I had a burned out bulb, but I don't.
Also even without turning on the blinker, the indicator on the dash lightens up when pressing the pedal. And this is for the right one only.

So it's an electrical issue and might be something like shortening a circuit or grounding or ... but any more concrete ideas ?

liuqy · August 2001

who know the quality and price of the tire of America Sliver? Thanks

whitemazda · September 2001

We have a 1996 4-cylinder Mazda 626 (78,000 miles) with no previous problems.

Yesterday it drove fine. Today it won't start, even with jumper cables. When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound. The only thing that works are the headlights--no radio, no interior lights, etc.

I did leave the key in the ignition last night, and I may have left it turned partially on (to close the windows).

Any diagnosis or thoughts? We are perplexed by not being able to jump start it at all.

Thank you.

rayfbaird · September 2001

Get a plug in battery charger for a few dollars and plug it in for the night. It will let you know whether the battery is holding a charge.

Auto Wreckers often have special booster cables that are much stronger than an ordinary car jump. If it does start with this, then you will need to use a battery charger to charge a long term charge. Alternators don't fully recharge.

whitemazda · September 2001

Overnight charge didn't work. Car was towed. Garage has been spending many hours trying to find out what is wrong. Any thoughts that might help them?

windowphobe6 · September 2001

Something is interrupting the power to that circuit only, so my first thought is to check the appropriate fuse.

qbrozen · September 2001

There are too many things that could cause this. Window is right about the fuse. I'm thinking that a wire to the starter could have come off or gone bad. It could be the starter itself, although it usually would make some sort of noise. It also could even be the ignition switch itself. The list goes on and on.

Mazda 626 Troubles

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