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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • johnlwjohnlw Member Posts: 28
    I posted on this thread back when we were having transmission problems.

    After changing the transmission on warranty, and not really trusting the rebuilt replacement, we finally sold ours to Carmax. It was a 1998, LX, 4 cyl. auto. Got a good price and (I cannot believe I am saying this) we are getting a more reliable powertrain in a Buick.

    How the screw turns. Ford/Mazda did not do themselves any favors by not improving this tranny. It is a great car but for that.

    Good luck all.
  • billcoop382billcoop382 Member Posts: 6
    Back again. Thanks for the earlier help. Any help on this problem would be appreciated. A week ago ( concidentally day after an oil change at a franchise shop ), the power steering acts up. Mostly works fine, but occasionally no power boost, need forearms like Popeye to make the corner . . . next corner, power boost is back. Fluid level is marginally high, belt is fine, pulley is fine. Dealer rep says pump has a valve that may be sticking, parts guys says that pump doesn't have a valve. My usual mechanic wants to "start" by replacing pump and go from there.
    Any help in finding a Mazda mechanic in the Fort Worth Texas area would be appreciated. Any input from owners experienced in this issue would also be appreciated.

    Love to drive the car. . . need silver bullet to eliminate this issue so I can go back to dusting Camry's.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Had a similar experience in a Dodge. Replace it and make sure that you add Lubegard Power Steering Suppliment. Keeps temperatures lower, and reduces wear slightly.
  • bartheadbarthead Member Posts: 1
    A couple years ago my '95 626 started having transmission problems -- randomly shifting between 2nd and 4th gears and blinking OD light. I read tons of posts from people with similar symptoms who had to get the transmission replaced. I thought I was in the same boat. A long story short, turned out the range sensor was dead. Had it replaced for $180 (only $30 for part) and the tranny has been fine ever since. I also found that it helps to have the transmission fluids flushed completely. Since the flush, the car shifts much more smoothly.

    So make sure to check the range sensor before putting in a new transmission.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Just like everyone else here that bought a 4 cyl 626, I had to replace the tranny (89k). I had mine flushed and it blew about a week later. I later found out that it is a bad idea to flush a transmission with high mileage that has never been flushed before. The new clean fluid loosens up all of the gunk that was holding the piece of junk together in the first place.

    Don't kid yourself into believing that Ford has made improvements on this hopeless joke of a tranny. Its an unreliable piece of junk that should have never been put into ANY car! Shame on you Ford AND Mazda. Even with the ticking lifters, I still liked the rest of the car but alas, 0% financing hooked me in and now someone else is driving my old 626 and I am sporting around in a new Rodeo. Its the 3rd trouble free Isuzu that I've owned. I will never, ever buy a Mazda or Ford again! Remember what Ford stands for:
    Found On Road Dead
    Fix Or Repair Daily
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Don't forget those poor people who are driving around the Ford Escape / Mazda Tribute time bombs. Here's hoping a CD4E that can't pull a little Mazda can pull a sport utility vehicle! Better hang on to that Auto Club membership! You're gonna need it!
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    I would like to get in May a 94/95 626 in 5 spd. I found a few that look good, but I'm unsure about the transmission. I know there are HUGE problems with auto trannies. Does the same apply to 5 spd? What other things should I look out for?

    Thanx all!

    Dinu
    2001 PRO ES
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    At least, fairly few that are reported to fora like these. You probably won't get 100k out of a clutch, but you can buy a lot of clutches for the cost of one rebuilt automatic. The usual fourth-generation issues (valve cover gaskets, HLAs, CV boots) apply here.
  • ebaheebahe Member Posts: 7
    Hello board, I have heared a quite ear-full of Mazda transmission problems. All of that is making me nervous because we are about to close a deal on a 2001 626 LX V6 automatic. I have two questions, first does anyone know if this 01 626 LX V6's transmission is a Ford or Mazda? It certainly sounds like all the problems are from Ford's transmission not Mazda's. So if you tell me 01 626 LX V6 automatic is a Mazda transmission, I will feel better and may close the deal on Monday. Secondly, I have not read too many posts about 2001 626 LX V6 automatic problems. Anyone out there has problems with it? Thanks.
  • 626manual626manual Member Posts: 7
    I have almost 113k on my '93 manual 626 ES and am still using the original clutch. I don't have a stop-and-go commute to work but I certainly do not get a large percentage of my miles on the highway.

    I've had other problems that I've mentioned here before (grounding wire to distributor let go while I was doing 70 down the highway) but no problems with the clutch - knock on wood!
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    I have 120,000 miles, on a 1991, mostly city driving. No problem with clutch. Biggest factor in clutch life in my opinion is the driver.

    ebahe. The transmission problems are mostly with the V-4, not the V-6. Still advise careful maintenence, drain and fill every 15,000 (30,000 if completely flush and replace with a synthetic) I also recommend the additive Lubegard, reduces tranny temperature and neutralizes acids. Can purchase it at Napa. I credit it with saving 2 of my transmissions, and 1 of my son's (the notorious CD4E on a Mazda 4 cyl).
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    The V6 has a Mazda Transmission. It's the 4 that has the worthless, pitiful excuse for an automatic. Ford needs to keep their stinkin' paws (and stinkin' parts) off of Mazda cars!
  • jcarpen763jcarpen763 Member Posts: 1
    At what mileage should the timing belt be replaced on a 1999 Mazda 626 4 cyl 2.0 engine.
  • ebaheebahe Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the replies. Now I know a little more about the V6. I really appreciate the advise of using Lubegard because we’ve had 4 cars in the past 13 years and this Mazda 01 LX V6 is our fist automatic car. We have to buy this one because our in-laws visits sometimes and they can not drive mannual shift cars. We have no knowledge what so ever about the machanics and maintanence of an automatic car. We have to learn how to drive this automatic car for a little while. One time in a rental car on the highway in California going at about 70 miles per hour, I attempted to shift, only been shockingly reminded that the clutch I pressed down was not the clutch, but the break. It was a scary moment for us the the car following behind us.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Mazda's recommendation is 60,000 miles, unless you live in California, in which case they recommend 105,000 miles (most likely because they were told to recommend that by the Assembly).
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I am duly impressed with people getting 120k out of these things. Everyone I know with a 5-speed 626 (an admittedly small sample) wound up getting replacements at 80-90k. I can only conclude that people I know tend to drive as haphazardly as I do. :)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    When I forget to plug in the car in colder weather I hear this ticking for a minute or 2. Is this the valve lifters? Is there anything that can be done about this?
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    windowphoebe,if you can wait till Ought9 when our
    Freeport has 84K on the tripometer I'll be able to
    tell you how little if any problems I've encounter
    'cause I'm looking forward to the 3Digit Club!
    Thumbs Up U S A
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    Thanx a lot guys for your comments on the 626 5 spd! I really appreciate it. Now another quick question. How much do you get out of 1 tank of gas in city driving and how large is the tank? I get about 500 kms before the fuel light goes on in my current 01 PRO ES. How does the 626 compare to it?

    Dinu
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Sorry, I don't translate. We get about 300--350 miles per tankful running around town. Our usual mileage around town is 23-26, on the road 30--35 MPG.

    If tuned this car gets excellent mileage. (New O2 Sensor increased from 23 -- 26 on oxygenated fuel.)
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    It's the lifters. Use a Mazda filter and synthetic oil.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    That confirms my suspicions. Usually it goes away after a minute or 2. I can also avoid the issue by using a block heater.

    I recently changed to a 5W-30 4 quarts Maxlife/ 1 quart Synpower blend over my 10W-30 conventional. Haven't noticed any change.

    I am using a Mobile1 Filter. Is Mazda better?
  • johnjay28johnjay28 Member Posts: 9
    i just bought a 1995 626 4 cyl auto trans couple of months ago. just recently i noticed that while parked in drive the idle is rough and when i accelerate the engine hesitates an almost dies but if i release the brake and allow the car to roll fwd a foot or so then step on the gas pedal it takes off fine. also during a trip i made last week the od/off light started blinking and has contiuned to this date also a light symbol looks like the shape of an engine came off and on during the trip this indicator light is located next to the high beam light indicator within the tachometer. i don't have a mazda manual so i don't know what this light is for. i would appreciate any help in order to fix these problems. thanks, john
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    They are probably close in quality but it probably wouldn't hurt to try a Mazda filter. Pure synthetic would get those lifters oiled up much faster in cold weather too. I had the opposite problem, mine would tick at idle if the outside temp was 90+.

    I also ran lifter flush thru the engine for 10 min. before changing the oil each time to get any gunk out.

    A lot of older MPV's have the ticking problem also. I've heard that keeping the oil changed every 3000 helps the ticking too, at least on the MPV's.

    I only run synthetics because of the superior flow in cold weather. It cuts down on engine wear at startup.
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    The Mazda oil filter has a valve inside which holds oil pressure better, thus the lifters are lubricated faster when the engine is started.

    Still running with original clutch on my 93 ES with 138k miles. Check engine light has been on intermittently due to oxygen sensor for the past 3 years, but still getting about 23 mpg mixed and close to 26 highway.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Both O/D Off and Malfunction Indicator lights? Now that's fun; you've got both transmission and emissions issues.

    Have the codes pulled, and you'll know from whom to request assistance: either MasterCard or St Jude.
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    jskho- Good to hear that you have138K on the original clutch. We are around 95K and going strong.

    I had to have the spark plug wires replaced today as one had a cracked boot. Symptons were slight hesitation on acceleration. But the wires had been replaced at 65,000 miles by a Mazda dealer, they should not have had to be replaced again so soon. All my service work is being done by a local mechanic now. He told me if the wires had been replaced by him, they would have been covered under a lifetime warranty and replaced for free.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Autozone wires work just as well, cost 1/3rd the price and have a lifetime warranty so you can take them back if they wear out. Lifetime brake pads are about 1/2 the cost of Mazda ones also. I never go the cheap way out on oil and filter, but these items IMHO are close enough in quality to the dealer stuff to not matter.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Not true. Read posts 440, 450, and 460 in Transmission Trauma topic.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    That post was for a GM car and he didn't specify what brand of wires he used. I put a $24 autozone set on the 626 rather than a $80 set from the dealer and they gave me 30k miles before I took them back and got another set FREE (they were still fine but I decided to replace them because I was doing other maintenance). I have bought plug wires that were junk and didn't last but in this particular case I felt they were very close in quality. I just wanted to post my experience for anyone else out there who doesn't want to blow all of their money on plug wires.

    I also looked at a set from Advance Auto Parts and didn't buy them because they looked too flimsy.
  • windwing6windwing6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX( 77k miles). It shakes dramatically when it goes beyond 70mph. But it's Ok below 60mph. Is it alignment problem or anything else? The other problem is when I try to accelerate , the gas panel sometimes vibrates a lot and it won't speed up.I have to take my foot off . What should I do with these problems?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,863
    Well, the over 70 wobble could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or as costly as a bad wheel bearing. Really nothing to do with alignment.

    The gas pedal vibrating is a new one on me.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Probably a loose linkage.

    As for the over-70 wobble, if it goes away at even higher speeds, I'd suspect a tire; if it doesn't, I tend to think hardware.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Purchased an '00 LX-V6 new, and so far I'm a very happy first time Mazda/626 owner. However, I do have a couple small issues I'd like to share with the board...

    First of all, I've got the MT with vinyl shifter and park brake boots. Last summer I had the dealer replace both of them (warranty item, no charge) because they were each torn all the way through in 2 or 3 places. Last week I noticed that my shift boot is tearing again, which is a bit annoying. Anyone else had problems with this? Is there something I should be putting on the vinyl to prevent this? The dealer told me it's not necessary to treat the vinyl, the original boots must have been defective. I also live in the NE, so I'm thinking the stiffness of the vinyl when cold might be contributing. Can anyone with an ES MT tell me if they have leather boots? I'm thinking about telling the dealer I want leather if it's available...

    Second, I've been hearing a tapping sound in the rear of the vehicle when first starting out down the road in the cold weather. Found a TSB on cars.com which describes this:

    Technical Service Bulletin #00400R
    Date: 03/00
    Component: SUSPENSION:SINGLE AXLE:REAR
    Summary:
    SOME VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE A TAPPING NOISE WHICH CAN BE HEARD COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE WITHIN THE FIRST 10 MINUTES AFTER A COLD START. *TT

    Before I found the TSB, I had the car in for this, and the dealer gave me the old line, "we can't reproduce the problem". Has anyone else experienced the tapping noise and had it fixed? I'm wondering if I should print out the TSB and carry in to the dealer to show them.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Definitely give them the TSB, and have them leave it over night.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Dealer service departments are supposed to stay on top of TSBs, but it doesn't always seem to work out that way.

    For the record, the boot around my handbrake lever looks just fine, although I have some weatherstripping issues around the driver's-side door - I swear, they must be buying this stuff from Louie's Discount Rubber Recycling - and an act of blatant stupidity (I am capable of many such, alas) took a teensy slice out of the passenger's armrest.
  • billcoop382billcoop382 Member Posts: 6
    Now that someone has opened the topic . . .
    The weather stripping around my drivers door has
    been loose for a few weeks. I've ignored it,
    hoping that the gremlins in my garage would take
    care of it. Unfortunately they took another
    course of action and now ALL four of the doors
    have drooping rubber seals.

    Any veterans of this particular malady care to
    give me the benefit of their experience??
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've not had experience with Mazda weatherstrip problems, but have fixed weatherstripping on a couple GM's I used to drive.

    After a bad experience one time with a mechanic who replaced my driver's side weatherstrip with a passenger side one (which peeled off inside 6 months), I decided to figure out how to do it myself. I ordered a new weatherstrip from a dealer, and purchased a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive from an auto parts retailer. I had the whole job done in 1/2 hour, and that particular car never gave me any more trouble.

    Since then, I've tacked up a couple loose weatherstrips on other cars, and that 3M stuff hasn't failed me yet.

    Don't know if your weather strip is attached using adhesive (I think some just have plastic clips), but if you have some time and patience it shouldn't be too difficult on any vehicle. Keep in mind that purchasing a new weatherstrip may be very expensive; the one for my old car cost $100+ both times!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I had basically the same problem with my '93; the stuff simply tears too easily. It does respond well to adhesives, but sooner or later I seem to end up with a section that's firmly glued to the door and a section that's curled up on the ground.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    I've just noticed this noise predominately from
    the right side for about 1 month. I have stainless
    steel mudflaps and thought that might be the malady. Removal of flaps on rear but the noise is
    still there. Monday a.m. I'll be calling the
    dealer in reference to T.S.B. #00400R and find out
    if parts need to be ordered.Thanx slickdog...by
    the way how do you say the year of your 626. I
    myself own a Doubleought 626 LX Freeport with a
    left leg flexor !! Zoom/Zoom
  • race136race136 Member Posts: 3
    I have my 95 626 for more than 3 years now. It got 145000 miles and never gave a problem until 3 month ago. I notice the engine oil was low and there was no oil leak. And the engine is making tapping noise. A mechanic told me that the O.-ring is wearing out. It is not worth to replace it for this car. He suggest me to get a new car.

    My question is, can I still drive the car and just keep refill oil? and how long can this last?

    I'll appreciate any input.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Nice to hear that someone else out there has experienced the tapping problem skibry1! The noise seems to come from the passenger side in my 626 as well. I'm interested to see what you find out when you mention the TSB to your dealer. I haven't called my dealer yet, as I won't have time to get the car in to them for at least another 2 weeks.

    Personally, I've never referred to the model year of my 626 by saying anything other than "two thousand", but use of the term "doubleought" seems to be quite common on these boards. I suppose it does roll off the tongue a bit more smoothly.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    What O ring is he talking about, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals?

    You might want to consider a Higher mileage Oil like those made by Valvoline, Quaker State, or Castrol. They are supposed to have additives that help condition seals, and stop hairline leaks.

    Is the tapping only when cold?
  • race136race136 Member Posts: 3
    The mechanic didn't specify. What I know is if I want to fix it, they have to open the engine. I am using Quaker State, but it doesn't help. There is no noise when the oil is full. But the engine burns a lot of oil very fast. The tapping noise starts when the oil level goes low. I have to add almost 2 quarts every 5 weeks, but there is no visible oil leak at the bottom of the car.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    my guess is that your mechanic says there is a bad oil ring on the piston. The oil ring is the bottom of the 3 rings on the piston. These things don't fail very often but rather can get stuck in the grove.

    I'd reccomend running a motor flush at your next oil change and then add some Rislone to the fresh oil. If that doesn't take care of the problem, you can get a little more life out of it by using an oil thickener like Morrey's, STP, or Motor Honey.
  • weebee3weebee3 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1996 626 LX. It's a great-looking car, but I'm thinking that's the only perk! During the two weeks that I have owned it, it's been shopped twice within a week. The idle was a little rough and had a long cranking time, but didn't think anything of it. Last week the CEL came on-took it to a Mazda dealer who replaced the Air Flow Meter and the R&R Coil. Told that the idle was out of adjustment and that it needed to "relearn" where it should be and that it may take some time. The same night, CEL on AGAIN. Next day, back in shop! This time, the code read that my gas mix is too rich, engine compression tested and Cylinder 3 is bad, and there's a sealing problem......and they recommend a new engine! Oh, yeah, the long cranking time is "possibly" caused by a bad fuel pump. My question is what the heck happened here? Did one repair cause more problems? So replacing parts didn't fix the problem, so now we blame a fuel pump. What do these Mechanics look for when they lift up that hood? The answer is "Show them the money!!!" I must say, I'm having second thoughts about this purchase already.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    while hindsight is 20/20 I'd recommend that on your next purchase you have a trusted mechanic look over your new prospects. Many good deals ARE too good to be true.

    As far the current set of problems, it does sound like the dealer was grasping at straws, but you may never know.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    That much at least is true; the car does have to relearn its idle after certain hardware changes or adjustments.

    The dealer probably doesn't do engine rebuilds, so replacing the engine is what he would consider the proper approach. What I think can be summed up in two words: "second opinion".
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I just had my timing belt replaced and it took about 3 weeks to completely relearn the timing and return to full power. I was surprized it took so long, but it works correctly now.

    I would certainly get a second opinion. Call a Mazda dealer and ask if someone has recently left to start their own business. That's how I found mine. More consistent repair quality that way.
  • race136race136 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the responses. I will try the suggestions.
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