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Saturn Maintenance & Repair

1568101117

Comments

  • becky725becky725 Member Posts: 1
    Hey there!! I feel Your Pain!! My L200 is out with an "Internal Engine Damage" Just would not start one afternoon. No warning or anything!! It has just under 90,000miles and the dealer wants at least 4,000.00 to put in a rebuilt engine!!!
    Any one else have this problem?? Tried to get out of loan, but we still owe 18 more months. The diagnostic report was similar to Flood Damage!?!?! Never been any where near a flood or high water. I just don't understand. I love the car, and have never had any other problems other than normal wear and tear. Please any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! :sick: :cry: :lemon:
  • fairmr1fairmr1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    About a year ago I bought a 95 Saturn 2dr (179k) from a colleague and its been running fantastically. However, this weekend I had it out in stop and go traffic on the highway and everytime I went to go... not much would happen. I would give it gas (a little, a lot, and a whole heck of a lot) and yet the car would barely creep along for 30 secs to a minute then would slowly build up speed. Now I happily admit I know NOTHING about cars. A few friends suggested maybe it was the transmission ( a couple of times the week before it would take a sec or two to slip into gear) so I took it to a local mechanic who all my friends and family use (and trust explictly) and he tells me there is nothing wrong with the car. Now again I admit I know NOTHING about cars but I KNOW my car was not going anywhere when I hit the gas and I know about half a dozen cars nearly hit me because of it.
    Anybody have any suggestions???
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    My wife used to have a 1993 Saturn and what you describe sounds like the alternator. I know, it sounds strange, but hers would creep along very slowly before building up momentum. Sometimes while starting on a steep hill, it would barely move. She had the four cylinder SOHC, not the DOHC motor. I also thought it was the transmission but the Saturn dealership said otherwise. Her vehicle was a very good vehicle but in the ten years she owned it, the alternator was replaced four times. We sold the vehicle to a teenager in 2002 with 110K miles. I don't remember if the Saturn had a volt measurement dial on the dash, but you may want to have your mechanic check the voltage output or check the bearings. Good luck
  • cribbagecribbage Member Posts: 3
    Can't believe I'm first on this!! When car sits outside in Ariz/ So. Cal July noonday temp. the car will crank and start but not run. Dash lights don't come on with switch, fuel gauge stays on empty (tank is full). doors will unlock but not lock. After outside temp cools off everything is ok. The first indication that everything is ok again is the dash lights go through their usual check and the gas gauge jumps up to full when ignition is turned on.If everything else is ok, The symbol on the dash for the security system may or may not stay on, but everything else works. Thanks for the help, I hope!!!
  • larryc2larryc2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Saturn SL2,I am having a problem when I drive the car for awhile and the engine gets hot,if I turn off the engine it won't start(just a ticking sound,like a dead battery) I wait about 15 minutes for it to cool down alittle,then it will start again.I thought it was the battery since its summer and temps are in the 90's,but it still does it now after trying a new battery.Is this a problem anyone else has had??Thanks for helping...
  • suzanne4suzanne4 Member Posts: 1
    OK, this is my second Saturn Wagon. For several months now, when I get into the car and turn the key, the horn beeps once and nothing else happens. I hve to sit for a while, then try it again. Saturn dealership has replaced the starter and various other parts-$1200 plus-still it beeps, no clicking, nothing. The dealer has kept the car twice for a week both times and they claim IT NVER ONCE DID THIS TO THEM! I am scared as I work in dangerous parts of town and this is happening too often.
    Unhappy Saturn Owner
  • cribbagecribbage Member Posts: 3
    Should have noted in message 362 that it is a 2003 L 200.
    any ideas of what going to happen if this kicks in while under way? Is there a fuse for just the security sustem that I can disable the entire thing without messing up the operation of the car?
    this problem effectively takes the car out of service on hot days because I am afraid to park it outside for any length of time or I might not be able to start it until in the evening when it cools down. Thanks
  • yankeemanyankeeman Member Posts: 1
    Referring to problem #2 - I have a similar problem, the car is difficult and sometimes impossible to get out of park, and the most recent time, it seems I am out of park, but when I put it back into park after a drive I cannot remove the key. When I read your item about the shifter breaking, I would think I would not be able to move the shifter at all. Any ideas what my situation may be caused by? Is it possible that even though the car 'thinks' it is in park, it may not be, and thus the reason I am not able to remove the key? Any help would be great...
  • richs4richs4 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2003 Saturn Vue in February and everything was fine. Then about two weeks later the steering column started to make a ratcheting noise when I made a turn.I went back to the dealership a few times and got that fixed. Now the steering column is making a rubbing noise when ever I turn the wheel. I have been to the dealership several times and they grease it and it is ok for a few weeks then the noise returns. I feel like they are just waiting for the warrenty to run out then they will fix the problem at my expense.
  • wakeboardr99wakeboardr99 Member Posts: 3
    I am having the exact same problem!
  • purrfectpurrfect Member Posts: 3
    My mom has a 1997 saturn, 4 cylinder. She had a problem with it not starting after switching it off, until the motor cooled off. Then it would start. Was told by several mechanics that it was the starter, so replaced the starter. Now she has a problem with it flooding, when she is trying to start it. When she finally gets it started, which it takes awhile,she can be riding along and take her foot off the gas and the car doesn't even slow down. Now we are at a loss to what it can be. Any help will be appreciated!
  • liz1980liz1980 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problems - i just bought a fuel pump yesterday and had it installed. It did nothing!! The people at the shop said that if it is rusty you should replace it.
    Please someone help!!
  • wakeboardr99wakeboardr99 Member Posts: 3
    I just replaced my starter today, and it seems to be working ok, I'll give an update for the first guy w/ the problem in a day or two to make sure that was really it. As for the fuel problem for PURRFECT, It seems like that has to do with the cable or mechanism from you gas pedal to the air intake valve. I can't imagine that if the air intake valve is closed (like it's supposed to be when you take your foot off the gas) and air is not getting into the engine, that the engine would maintain speed. But I'm no expert. I would make sure the cable is secure and tight thou first.
  • purrfectpurrfect Member Posts: 3
    Thanks wakeboardr99 for the information and I will have someone check it out for mom. I need to correct something, talked with mom and she said that when she removes her foot from gas when going down a hill, the car doesn't change and still maintains the same speed. Duh, wish she had told me that earlier, as it is normal to maintain or increase when going down an incline. Thanks so very much for taking the time to reply.
  • david714david714 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 saturn that overheats on hot days. I replaced the leaking water pump, replaced the temp sensor (supposed to turn on the fan), and I removed the thermostat. The car can still overheat if I run w/out the heater on. I opened the hood with the engine idling and running a little hot and noticed the radiator fan is not moving! The fan runs when I connect it directly to 12v. Any ideas as to why the fan is not running? thanks David
  • larryc2larryc2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks wakeboard,let me know if that takes care of the problem for sure and then I will get a new starter,hopefully I can do it myself and save some $$,I don't feel like paying $200-300 dollars for something I can possibly do myself.I never changed a starter but I hear it's not too difficult,anything I should know before tackling this job?? Thanks again....
  • xoanonxoanon Member Posts: 2
    The other reply sounds right - the alternator. My'95 did the same thing. The alt was dead, and the battery voltage was so low it couldn't operate the electrical shifting mechanism in the transmission. There was enough to run the ignition, however, so I'd rev it up and it would go nowhere!
  • xoanonxoanon Member Posts: 2
    My '95 also has a preference for not running the fan, unless it's hot enough to boil. Don't know why the temp sensor is set so high. The trick they told me when I bought it is to run the A/C compressor, this forces the fan to come on. A bit counter-intuitive I know, to run the A/C when it's overheating in traffic, but it cools it right down.
  • wakeboardr99wakeboardr99 Member Posts: 3
    Ok I replaced the starter and it's been a couple days. It's been working fine now so that must have been the problem. It cost me 132 for new starter. Ebay has em for about 70 new if you can wait for shipping. There are 2 bolts holding it in and 2 bolts holding 2 wires on. If you have a little experience you should be able to do it yourself. It's pretty centrally located underneath the car a lil below the intake manifold. It took me about 2 hours. Just remember to disconnect your battery cable if you do it yourself. There are places online that sell universal heat shields online for the starter motor if your interested. I don't know whether it was the starter or the solenoid because the one I bought had both so I replaced both. I have about 90k on my car so I figured it would be good to replace both anyways. If you do have any more questions email me at wakeboardr99@hotmail.com. Peace
  • web_dudeweb_dude Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 L-200... similar problem but doesn't seem to be temperature related. My "Security" and "Service" lights occasionally flash after turning the ignition to the "Run" position. Engine turns over normally, but apparently the fuel pump is taken off line.

    So far each time it has happened, waiting for several minutes with the key in the "Run" position, corrects the fault. The lights stop flashing, stay on continuously, and the engine starts and runs normally.

    I plan on taking it to the dealer as soon as I have time. I'll post the results here as soon as I have some to report.
  • violet2violet2 Member Posts: 2
    Without any warning or prior performance issues.....I went to start my car and I could hear the engine turning but it wasn't catching. My husband came out to check and saw that the gas guage was on empty (I had filled the tank the day before) very similar to an earlier post the head lights were out and and I was able to unlock the doors but was unable to lock them. Windows, A/C and fan worked fine. after some trying got the car to turn over but couldn't get the car out of park.

    Saturn said that it was the alternator and then called moments ago to report the a spike in the power caused the ecm to die. I feel like the service center may caused the ecm to die. Any thoughts on this would be great!
  • violet2violet2 Member Posts: 2
    oops! I have a 2002 LW 200
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    Please help. My wife has a 95' sl2. The problem seems to be the clutch or some cylinder, not sure. When ever the clutch is pushed it only has a couple inches of travel in it. It also seems to be very stiff. Also when letting off the clutch it shutters as it engauges. This is as detailed as I can get at the moment. If I didn't cover anything please ask me and I will try to go into further detail. Thank you all very much. :P
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    I have a 97' sc2. My problem only occours when the engine is up to temp. and I shut it down. After about 10-15 min. of sitting I try to start it and it just cranks and cranks with no luck, I let it sit for a second and try again, I t sometime starts but lately it catches putters and stalls out. The third try it starts powerfully like nothing is wrong. Sometimes it will have a weak start when I first start it up(cold engine). Please help I am pulling out my hair and have replaced all the easy logical parts to no avail.
  • kpockpoc Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2000 Saturn L series and everything was running great - and this morning when I was on my way to work the service engine soon light came on. I listened to the engine sounds the same - any thoughts?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    An accurate diagnosis starts with retrieval of any stored diagnostic trouble codes. Could be any of a dozen things, any of which would be guesswork without having the codes. AutoZone will perform this service no charge.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like a bad pressure plate and time for a new clutch.
  • david714david714 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply, I tried this but it did not work. When I switch on the a/c the radiator fan ran for a few seconds then it stopped again. It keeps starting and stopping when the a/c is on and won't run continuously... Engine temp slowly climbs into the red.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    How many miles?
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    about 128,000 miles
  • unklefesterunklefester Member Posts: 1
    Anything can trigger a Check Engine light. It is most likely an O2 sensor, a bad spark plug wire, or any one of the billion sensors on the Saturn SC2. If your gas usage has suddenly gone up and the vehicle is running rough, it’s the O2 Sensor (front or Back), you can replace it for about $70-$90 bucks. It participates in the fuel flow system. My light came on yesterday and the vehicle only has 46,000. I think it is one of the plugs failing. Anyway, Saturn makes a truly safe vehicle. It saved my wife last year when a School bus rounded a curb and came to a complete stop (in the back of our Saturn). The driver was busy talking on a cell phone (can't get in the way of important business you know), then the Saturn absorbed the impact, the Gas Tank dropped down to prevent breach, and the frame held. As for your Transmission, have the techs check the trans fluid flow with the Computer. Sounds like the previous owner may have used the wrong type of trans fluid. If you have fluids that contain mineral oil, it can cause major damage. The Saturn Transmission is different than any other in the auto world. If you take it to a Saturn dealership, try another one. I have found bad Saturn Dealerships where they don't PHYSICALLY INSPECT the vehicle and count on the computer to find problems. The Computer will only find sensor-based problems. I think some good old fashioned inspecting can find the problems when they don’t involve a sensor. Good Luck

    Unklefester
    :shades:
  • shayemarieshayemarie Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 1999 Saturn SL2 yesterday. The engine has 80K miles and it seemed to run fine. However, when the car was idling yesterday a lot a white smoke started coming out the tail pipe. It smelled like burning oil. The car doesn't run hot and the smoke only comes out after the car has been running for about 10-15 minutes. Could someone please let me know what this could be caused from? Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a bad head gasket. Take it back where you got it right away if it's a dealer and if they won't fix it or do anything about it, call your local Small Claims court and get their instructional booklet. If it's a private party ask for your money back.

    Document everything you say and do from when you bought the car up to the time you resolve the situation or have to go to court.
  • larryc2larryc2 Member Posts: 3
    Wakeboard and all others,
    Thanks for the replies on the Saturn problem,well my buddy changed the starter and it seems to be working fine, but now I noticed my battery light is intermittently coming on.First,I made sure the battery cables are nice and tight(because I had removed the negative connector when changing the starter),but it didn't help.Do you think there maybe now is a not a very good connection at the starter??It seems like any vibrations,like going over bumps in the road,or revving up the engine makes the light come on brighter.It goes out completely when I am just idling.Would the connection at the starter cause a battery light to come on like this??Thanks for any ideas on what it is and how to find out where it's coming from.
  • dkfailingdkfailing Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering how '99 SL1s do with regard to resale value these days. Are Saturns reliable after 6 years/90,000 miles in relation to Hondas/Toyotas?
  • shayemarieshayemarie Member Posts: 2
    I am going to call them tomorrow. Thanks a lot =)
  • amarriamarri Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Saturn ION Redline Coupe with a 2.0L supercharged engine. At 375 miles the fuel gauge registered 0 even though the gas tank was full, and the "Check Engine" light came on steadily. The car was towed back to the Dealer. The Dealer reprogrammed the engine, and I went home. Again, at 500 miles, same problem: fuel gauge read 0, "Check Engine" warning light came on steadily, and car was towed back to the Dealer for a second time sustaining damage to the front bumper caused by the tow truck boom. The Dealer is removing the gas tank to replace the part causing the problem. I think Saturns are inherently defective vehicles and would advise folks to NOT buy them.
  • bobr7bobr7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a VUE which I purchase used from the dealer. Everything was fine for a while but recently the security alarm started going off about twenty minutes after the doors are locked. Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be going on here?

    Bob :confuse:
  • mherouxmheroux Member Posts: 2
    When ever driving my car on the highway after about four minutes I lose my ability to shift and have no pressure in the clutch after I stop and let shut the car off for about two or so hours I have full pressure and clutch back just like nothing had ever happened. This happens every time now when the car is going for 30 minutes city driving or less then five on highway but the clutch always comes back once the engine cools down and is just fine. Any ideas on what may be going on?

    Thanks,
    Michelle :cry:
  • panda1148panda1148 Member Posts: 1
    please help me! i cant find any information anywhere about this. My battery died yesterday and afterwards the radio says LOC and wont do anything no matter what i do. i changed the battery, brand-new. i turned it off, on, whatever. i finally got it to say InO p. I have no idea what it is. please somebody help me! :confuse:
  • cribbagecribbage Member Posts: 3
    -I took it to the dealer in the morning before it got too hot outside and wrote a note of the problems for them. They expresse appreciation for that. They parked it outside for 2-3 hours and sure enough it wouldn't start or do anything. Ran the diagnostic on it and no communication out of the "BCM'"(body control module?) anyway they replaced that and it has been fine ever since. All done under warranty so all is well. Dave
  • phaturnphaturn Member Posts: 11
    After a HUGE downpour this afternoon I got in my car to find the seat slightly damp toward the back. I slid mt seat forward to find the rear floor board under about a 1/4" of water. I do have a sunroof but the way I sit is pretty far back and covering the soaked part completely. The water must have come in from some other way, any thoughts? :lemon:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Replace clutch slave and master cylinders.
  • jcakabennyjcakabenny Member Posts: 5
    You will most likely have to contact a Saturn Dealer. Apparently there is an antitheft feature installed which disables the radio. You need to enter a code of some sort. Sorry I could not provide more detailed info.

    J.C.
  • jcakabennyjcakabenny Member Posts: 5
    Provided the car runs fine after the initial start/idle. I would suggest checking the idle air control valve. You can remove this relatively easily and clean it. Do NOT soak it as it is an electrical device. Just clean the "pintle" (the part with the spring on it) with carb cleaner/fuel injection cleaner/starter fluid. Usually this will get gunked up and not allow enough air into the engine. The idle air control valve is located to the left (while standing in front of the car) of the brake fluid reservoir.

    I would strongly recommend purchasing the Haynes manual for the car, the directions and pictures will definitely help you out.

    Directions directly from Haynes manual:

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
    2. Remove the air cleaner and unplug the electrical connector from the IAC valve.
    3. remove the two valve retaining screws and pull the valve out of the throttle body

    Hope this helps.

    J.C.
  • 97sw297sw2 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 97 SW2 with 110,000 miles. It runs great. However, when I took it for PA inspection, it failed the emissions test. The computer (I'm told) would not respond to the test gear. I received a pass with a warning...it must be repaired by the next inspection. My mechanic, who works on all my cars, three of which are saturns, says it's either the computer itself, or the wiring. He's not a saturn dealer, but uses another GM dealer for the emissions test.
    I thought it sounded like something that I would find others had, but I see nothing posted. Anybody ever seen this problem? Any suggestions? What's a computer worth? Can I get one from a salvage yard? I thought I'd take it to a Saturn dealer next year, but I've not always been thrilled with their work, and generally use my mechanic for all work he can do.
  • mherouxmheroux Member Posts: 2
    The garage is now saying the cylinders are fine and the problem is with the friction plate and some other plate. I have spoken to a few people and they all feel this does not sound right. Please give your opinion. They have not done a tear down of the engine yet because I really have to think about that as it is very expensive and they are saying they don't feel it's the cylinders that is causing this problem, then the warranty will not cover the cost of this. Please give me your thoughts. Thank you so much :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    hard to say, could be either. Personally I'd drive the car until the clutch failed and then observe the action of the slave cylinder linkage and see if it is giving a full throw into the clutch itself or not. (that is, if the system has lost hydraulic pressure). Or you can ask them--if they replace the pressure plate and clutch disk and it still does the same thing, will they refund all your money? That should give you an idea of how sure they are. :P
  • jcakabennyjcakabenny Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like the idle air control valve. I had a similar problem on my mountaineer, removed the IAC and cleaned it with starter fluid. All is now well. Hope this helps.

    J.C.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    How many miles? I still vote for the slave and/or master cylinders, but you never know. I'd have to drive it and see it.
This discussion has been closed.