Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

lordvader2000 · April 2004

Does anyone have an answer?

I have a 2000 Bonneville SLE. Each and every time it rains or snows, the car takes a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. (Very scary in an emergency stop). However, after they "warm" up (or dry out), they have no issues stopping. If I drive for about 10 minutes, they again take a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. Though when it is dry out, there are no problems.

The problem seemed to be getting worse so I took the car into the shop and had the brakes completely redone -- all pads and rotors completely replaced. The dealer said they had a lot of glazing, but otherwise they couldn't see anything. Well, the problem is better, but it is still there.

When it rains or snows, it now takes only a good full second to begin stopping. There has been a previous posting on this #546 with the same problem description. The answer to that posting stated that it was probably just due to very heavy rain. However in the exact same weather, this does not happen in my other car. In fact, it doesn't have to be raining very hard at all for this problem to occur. This seems to be an issue with this car only.

Does anyone know of a solution?

imidazol97 · April 2004

Did you go to the Pontiac dealer to see if there's a cause for this problem?

Were the brakes that we put on original equipment quality? I used Raybestos OEM on my 98 and it was a world of difference from the long life Raybestos I had used on my other car. These felt sticky as soon I touched the pedal.

Could it be a booster problem?

Post over in 'got a quick technical question.' Alcan there may have heard of this problem before.

crankshaft "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" Apr 3, 2004 11:54pm

jayare627 · April 2004

My 2000 SSEi is the same way, and so was my 99 GTP. My GTP was 10x's worse than the Bonneville though. I have tried everything from new pads to rotors and was told, "that is just the way it is". Never had that with any other car i've ever had so i'm not sure what the problem is. However, I believe there was a post on here somewhere that stated a dealership had reported it to GM and GM was supposedly checking into it.

giamomj · April 2004

My 2000 Bonneville SE also has a seriously-bad time stopping in very wet weather. Otherwise it's pretty "normal" though I have been in autos that seem to stop on a dime, compared to my Bonne. I will note that my local Firestone Dealership told me flat out that there is a TSB (but no notice to owners) from GM on possible rotor wear caused by some defect in the brake system - and that GM is supposed to fix the rotors free of charge if a braking probllem is found to be this one....

lordvader2000 · April 2004

I will definitely look into the rotor wear issue and see if I can do some more digging into TSB's -- so far, no luck.

Since I felt it was a dangerous situation, I made sure that the pad, shoes and rotors were completely replaced with OEM parts from GM. I did not use 3rd party equipment. It helped, but it is still there and quite noticeable. (Maybe cross drilled rotors would make a difference???). I have heard of other Bonneville owners having this same issue too. I would assume that would be a serious safety issue...

I will also post in that other forum to see what others may have to say.

Thanks, I'll keep looking into it.

wnewell · April 2004

You might check and see if wheels are turned maybe next to curb or something that has pressure on steering wheel lock. Turn the wheel towards the offending object and try again.
WN

danzigdan · May 2004

I am well aware of the intake issue. I am thinking of buying a 2002 Bonnie SE with 38K from a private individual.

Is this a recall on the 3800 engine or just a TSB, and does the car have to be leaking or just in warranty?

Anyone with experience?

montanafan · May 2004

It was a recall. Dosen't have to be leaking and you do not have to still be under warranty. Dealer will add sealant to the cooling system and replace the throttle body mounting nuts.

luvmybonne · May 2004

Hello to all,

I am the proud owner of a 1996 Bonneville SSEi that I love. The car currently is in need of front and rear struts. I priced these items at a nearby Pontiac dealership and almost fainted at the quote of $301 each for front, $477 each for rear. I searched GM Parts direct and did not find the items. I have the electronic ride control system.
Is there somewhere I can obtain these parts without my wallet needing surgery??

jwally · May 2004

Problem#1 I have a 96 bonneville with 3800 SeriesII motor and 4T60E transmission with 170,000 miles.I have a vibration/shuttering upon acceleration at around 60-70MPH on highway.If i let off the gas it stops.Its more apparent on slight inclines and when weather is warmer and car is warmed up.I had trans fluid changed(not flushed),filter and an unknown additive put in which seem to help for about four weeks then the shutter came back.No codes came up at fluid change.It does it with cruise control on or off.I changed the plugs and wires 19 months and 42,000 miles ago with GM ac delco wires and 100k plugs.I never changed ignition coil or module.I have tested torgue converter at 50 and 60 MPH by tapping breaks on acceleration at which it seem to stop shuttering and raised RPM by 500.the car otherwise runs great.I had a 89 Bonny with 250,000 miles ran great until a tree jumped in front of me:)A transmission guy told me you can't just change valve body without rebuilding tranny $1500-$2000 is that true?Please post or email me,thanks in advance.
Porblem#2 When car is cold i hear a noise like a bad waterpump or marble bouncing around for the first 2-3 minutes upon start up. I have a new water pump. Noise sounds like its on driver side. I took a long screw driver with my ear on the handle and listen to all engine compenents with negative results.I hear the noise near air filter and when i put my ear on air filter is sounds louder.
Problem#3 When a/c or defrost is on the secondary fan(passenger side) vibrates very hard upon start up and slight vibration at running speed.I changed the motor thinking shaft was bent.
Problem#4 Intake manafold plenum-I had a leak at plastic nipple from intake to tensioner but i got it replaced. I like to know where most leaks occur. I have no leaks now but noticed intake plenum warped about 1/8 of inch where it mounts to throttle body between the mounting bolts.

jwally · May 2004

I changed my front struts on my 96 bonny SE about 3 years ago with Monroe struts,Big mistake i thought i was in the ocean.mechanic told me bonneville's are to big for Monroe struts.I went with KYB stuts and they have been great for 3 yaers.

jwally · May 2004

Problem#1 I have a 96 bonneville with 3800 SeriesII motor and 4T60E transmission with 170,000 miles.I have a vibration/shuttering upon acceleration at around 60-70MPH on highway.If i let off the gas it stops.Its more apparent on slight inclines and when weather is warmer and car is warmed up.I had trans fluid changed(not flushed),filter and an unknown additive put in which seem to help for about four weeks then the shutter came back.No codes came up at fluid change.It does it with cruise control on or off.I changed the plugs and wires 19 months and 42,000 miles ago with GM ac delco wires and 100k plugs.I never changed ignition coil or module.I have tested torgue converter at 50 and 60 MPH by tapping breaks on acceleration at which it seem to stop shuttering and raised RPM by 500.the car otherwise runs great.I had a 89 Bonny with 250,000 miles ran great until a tree jumped in front of me:)A transmission guy told me you can't just change valve body without rebuilding tranny $1500-$2000 is that true?Please post or email me,thanks in advance.
Porblem#2 When car is cold i hear a noise like a bad waterpump or marble bouncing around for the first 2-3 minutes upon start up. I have a new water pump. Noise sounds like its on driver side. I took a long screw driver with my ear on the handle and listen to all engine compenents with negative results.I hear the noise near air filter and when i put my ear on air filter is sounds louder.
Problem#3 When a/c or defrost is on the secondary fan(passenger side) vibrates very hard upon start up and slight vibration at running speed.I changed the motor thinking shaft was bent.
Problem#4 Intake manafold plenum-I had a leak at plastic nipple from intake to tensioner but i got it replaced. I like to know where most leaks occur. I have no leaks now but noticed intake plenum warped about 1/8 of inch where it mounts to throttle body between the mounting bolts.

jwally · May 2004

Sorry about double post my computer froze. My 96 bonneville is an SE model.Any help or suggestions is most appreciated.

alcan · May 2004

#1. Take a close look at all 6 coil towers for any signs of carbon tracking.
#2. Try running it (for a short time) with the serpentine belt removed to eliminate any belt driven accessories.
#4. They like to leak where you noticed the warp, behind the throttle body. The EGR tube heats the plastic causing the warpage. It'll eventually fill the valley with coolant, then start ingesting it. Can cause the engine to hydrolock, and antifreeze mixed with engine oil will eventually take out the bottom end.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductMo- - delId=9088

luvmybonne · May 2004

KYB?? Help!!

Thanks for the info.

luvmybonne · May 2004

What or who is KYB?
There has got to be someplace that sells structs at a more realistic price than GM.

Luvmybonne

alcan · May 2004

http://www.kyb.com/shocks2.html

jwally · May 2004

Where are the coil towers located? I have notice some white marks on plug wires where plugs crossed each other.considering i did the torque converter clutch test by tapping brakes at 50 and 60 mph i noticed rpm's rise and shuttering stops would it seem more likely transmission needs rebuilt?what does TCC TEST MEAN?WORKING PROPERLY?

alcan · May 2004

The coil towers are the part of the coil packs that the spark plug wires plug into. Remove the wires and look for any signs of corrosion in the towers, and for fine white lines on the outside of the towers. What you're describing sounds exactly like a secondary ignition misfire (plugs, wires, coils), especially since it's more pronounced in damp weather. Although 42,000 miles is a bit on the low side, the white marks on the wires sounds like arcing between wires. If the coils look ok, I'd replace the wire set, using dilectric silicone grease in the boots on both ends of each wire.

When the brake pedal is depressed, the torque converter clutch releases. There is no longer a mechanical connection between the engine and transaxle, and an ignition misfire is less noticeable.

luvmybonne · May 2004

Thanks much!!

alcan · May 2004

You're welcome.

jwally · June 2004

I took a mechanic on a test drive while snap on computer code finder was attached. I was trying to reproduce tranny shutter but couldn't. The mechanic did find a problem with the firing of 1 and 4 plugs. No other codes came up. So he changed one of the coil packs which controls 1 and 4 plugs. my car has 3 individual coil packs. It still did not fix tranny shutter. Every time i get shutter i maintain gas pedal pressure and then tap break pedal, the shutter goes away and RPM's go up. If this seems to help when I tap break it leaves me to believe its the transmission?As alcan said"When the brake pedal is depressed, the torque converter clutch releases. There is no longer a mechanical connection between the engine and transaxle, and an ignition misfire is less noticeable." so am I correct?thank you alcan for your previous assistance,do you think it's the transmission?

tamika · June 2004

I have a 95 bonni sse I am having a problem with the car dying on me when I come to a stop after a long drive. I took the car to a mechanic to get it diagnosed the computer read a problem with my tcc solenoid and my egr pintle position.

Im am looking fix why it is cutting off first.
by reading I am assuming the it is the tcc solenoid, but I am not sure. to fix the tcc solenoid the mechanic told me $504 and to fix the egr pintle $265 does this sound about right
if anyone has any knowledge about this please give me some advise.

alcan · June 2004

This was in my email. I've copied it here for the benefit of anyone who might have the same symptoms:

"My problem is that my Bonnie has the "shudders and shakes" sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop. I mean it doesn't happen when I gradually pull off from a light or stop, just when I gun it. It will shake and shudder real hard for a few seconds then I let up off the gas and it runs fine. Well today I was on the highway cruising about 70 and I felt a what can be best be describes as a grab, like the transmission just skipped a beat or something.

My Bonneville is a 1994 model automatic transmission,457 miles with the 3.8 engine. All services have been done regularly."

If the shudder is also evident when the torque converter locks up around 35-40 mph, I'd start by looking at plug wires,plugs, and coils. If it's only there on hard accel from a stop, try pulling away in Drive instead of OD. In OD, a mechanical sprag clutch transfers torque into the transaxle's gearset. They've been known to start slipping and will cause a bad shudder as they grab/release/grab/release. In Drive, a multi disc clutch is also applied. It takes up some of the torque load and prevents the shudder.
If this works, it's time for the transaxle to come out.

madmouse · June 2004

Thanks for the reply to my message. I mistakenly posted the wrong mileage. It is 147,456 miles. If what you say is correct(the transxale has to come out, what price range can I expect the shops to charge me.

alcan · June 2004

Hi, I thought 457 miles was kinda low. LOL If it does have to come out, you're probably looking at a rebuild since the forward sprag is way inside there. Providing there are no other hard parts requiring replacement (gears, pump, etc) most shops in this area would charge in the $1,600 - $1,800 Cdn range for a soft part rebuild (clutches, seals, gaskets).

Try what I suggested, hard accel in Drive instead of OD and see if the symptoms disappear. That'd help diagnose it.

dt1026 · June 2004

93 Bonneville - carpet in the back seat foot wells has been wet on several occasions. Thought it was temporary....not drying out though. Pulled up the carpet and found the insulation under carpet is soaked and moldy! Pulled up the rear bench part of seat and it is damp underneath, but not soaked. One of the seat belts has rust on it as you pull it out; suspecting mechanism is rusted inside. Two of three seatbelts have had a white crystal like substance that grows on them. I've cleaned it off, but it comes back. Anyone with similar problem - solution? Where is the water coming in? message 1185 had similar?

lash92ssei · June 2004

Take a look at the weather stripping around your doors. That is where most water leaks come from.

madmouse · June 2004

Took it to a shop today and you were right. A lot of parts are worn and the clutch plates need to be replaced. He did say something about the forward sprag not looking to well. He showed it to me and I saw that it was kinda smooth and worn in some places. He gave me a price of $1697 US dollars. I think I'm going to take that money and just trade it in on a new Bonnie. I love that car but I don't think it's worth putting that kind of money in it,plus it needs a paint job. Hopefully the next Bonnie will give me another 150,000 miles before the tranny up and dies on me. Hey what about a used tranny?

alcan · June 2004

Well, with used it can be buyer beware. Here, if the recycling yard installs it and it's no good, they eat the labor for the replacement. With a 3rd party install you might not be that lucky. Won't hurt to ask around though.

rickd50 · June 2004

Today I am replacing the intake manifold on my 97 Bonneville w/90,000. Service manager indicated this is a common problem. Looking at other discussions about engine failures following the replacement I'm wondering how common this is.

tamika · June 2004

I wrote last week about my car stalling and cutting off the dealer said it was a tcc solenoid problem and a possible egr pintle problem. I asked him to diagnose the problem before fixing he assured me that it was the solenoid problem that cost me $504 the car stayed at the shop for 4 days.
when I got the car back I made to my house which was less than a mile away when I went to leave again the car wouldnt start I finally got it started than it cutt off again and stayed off for 30 mins. of course the repair shop was close I took it back the following day they looked at it made some minor adjustments and told me it would work again. the next couple of days the car would cut off several times after it heated up than finally would run.

After being so sick and tired of cutting off in the middle of the road in front of people I took it back and demanded that they fix the damn problem or give me my money back. I also sat and watch them work on it. It was never the solenoid the problem was the crank sensor and some valves needed clean and experienced mechanic would have picked this up immediately

madmouse · June 2004

Hey Alcan, I got my Bonnie back and it's running a lot better. No more hard stuttering from a dead stop.The guy at the transmission shop went ahead and fixed the tranny for 875.00. I had told him I couldn't afford 1600 bucks and to just put it back together. Well he had already bought the parts. He asked what I could afford and I told him 800 bucks, he said would 875 work and I said you got a deal. I still think I need to do a tune up but that is minor getting a little hesitation out of it at around 65mph.

alcan · June 2004

Now THAT'S the deal of the month, as long as all the required parts were replaced. All you need now is a fresh set of ACDelco plugs and wires, air & fuel filters, PCV valve, clean the throttle body with air intake cleaner and an old toothbrush (careful removing the mesh screen in the throttle body), check the condition of the serpentine belt and hoses, and you're good to go.

imidazol97 · June 2004

I ended up need two large paper clips rebent to form a hook at the end that I could reach through the grid and pull from behind. One clip pulling on one side was tearing the soft metal mesh. Takes two, one at each side, and some gentle teasing to work it out.

alcan · June 2004

Don't forget to remove the front snap ring first. It's pretty thin so often gets overlooked. The screen tends to come out in chunks then.

imidazol97 · June 2004

Also My toothbrush bristles started to loosen from the plastic after a minute. Maybe it was the type of cleaner I'd gotten from PepBoys, but the bristles were just about ready to start coming loose inside the intake manifold. So be quick and check your bristles. A wooden brush with bristles probably would be best -- from a paint store.

henryl · July 2004

I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new(986bucks)at my local A/C shop, Whats next!

ALSO
Why does my car stall while turning or after letting off the accelerator?

henryl · July 2004

My car also stalls what valves needed to be cleaned

dbwilson · July 2004

I recently purchased a 2000 SE and I have noticed that the engine idle during warm, or cold starting is possibly higher than it should be.

When warm: upon starting the engine, the rpm is at 900 rpm for a few seconds, but then goes to 1100 rpm for a few seconds and then gradually goes to about 1200 rpm after about 30 seconds if I don't place the transmission in gear. Once in gear the engines idles at 675 rpm. This always occurs when the car is completely warmed up and the outside temp is in the 70 or 80s. Is this normal behavior?

When cold: when starting the engine, the engine initially idles at 1100 briefly, then jumps to 1300 rpm and then gradually rises to 1500 rpm. After that it takes a few minutes for the idle to lower itself to 1100 rpm where it would stay for a very long time. But at this point I place the car in gear. Once the engine is warm the car will idle at 675 rpm.

I bought the car used with 53,000 miles and have since replaced the plugs and wires and the usual "tune-up" parts. To help solve the idle issue, I also replaced the idle control valve and removed and cleaned the throttle-body. This didn't help the idle issue, but it sure did increase the engine's performance.

Any suggestions or comments to my problem would be greatly appreciated.

msh · July 2004

I have a 2001 Bonneville, 3.8 series II, with 86,000 miles on it. The transmission seems to shift hard from first to second, and second to third, even into overdrive there is a hard shift. It is not smooth like is should be. There is always a jerk into the next gear. Any help would be appreciated, on what it could be. Thanks.

msh · July 2004

I also have a problem with my 2001 Bonneville's gas gauge. It always reads full. It seems to stay on full all the time. No matter how much gas it has in it. Stays on full. Would this be a bad sending unit? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

alcan · July 2004

This TSB from GM might apply. It addresses problems with the pressure control solenoid in the transaxle:

Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly) #00-07-30-002B - (Jul 19, 2002)

1997-1999 Buick Riviera
1997-2002 Buick Park Avenue
1998-2002 Buick LeSabre
1999-2002 Buick Regal
2000-2002 Buick Century
2002 Buick Rendezvous
1997-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1997-2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
1999-2002 Chevrolet Venture
2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala
1997- 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1997-2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora (3.5L)
1997-2002 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Prix
1999-2002 Pontiac Transport/Montana
2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)

This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-002A (Section --Automatic Transmission).

Condition
Some owners of the above vehicles with a Hydra-Matic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.

Cause
The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:

Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind.
Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick.
Incorrect transaxle oil level.

Correction

Important
Any of the above conditions may be intermittent, therefore, this test should be performed at least three times.

Refer to the Line Pressure Check Procedure in SI, along with the Line Pressure Specification Table below, to determine if actual versus desired pressures are within the values specified. The Scan Tool is only able to control the PC solenoid valve in PARK and NEUTRAL with the vehicle stopped. This protects the clutches from extremely high or low pressures in DRIVE or REVERSE ranges.

Yadda, yadda, yadda........

alcan · July 2004

Probably the sending unit but could also be a wiring or instrument panel cluster problem. Step #1 in the factory manual diagnostic routine is to verify operation of the instrument cluster. A Tech2 scan tool (GM dealer) is required to diagnose it properly.

henryl · July 2004

I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!

msh · July 2004

Thanks for the info. Do you know where the Pressure Control Solenoid is located? Is it inside the transmission?

alcan · July 2004

It's one of the six solenoids attached to the valve body, under the end cover of the transaxle.

henryl · July 2004

I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!
Update
I took it to my local AC shop they are telling me the compressor, accumlator and the expansion valve need to be replaced. Does this sound correct the quote for the work 900-1100 bucks.

alcan · July 2004

If the compressor has failed, then the quote is about right. Reman compressors usually come with the warning that the compressor is not covered by warranty unless the accumulator/dryer is also changed. Also, debris from the compressor gets into the system and requires a system flush and expansion valve replacement.

bcorso · August 2004

To me it sounds like a blockage of your vents in some way. If the fan is on high, and little to no airflow, that sends a big red flag something is blocking the airflow from your fan. I would pursue that LONG before dumping a ton of money into something that probably wont fix the problem.

Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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