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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    You may have a system comparable to my LeSabre. I had a slow movement of the various vacuum motors that pull the vanes inside the box that directs all the air under the dash.
    If you hear a vacuum leak under the right side, that could be the reason there not much happening. The vacuum line comes in at the right side from the passenger compartment. Then it goes to a switching device that's electrically controlled on the automatic air system. From there hoses come out to 5 or 6 vacuum motors that pull the vanes. Any of those vacuum lines could be damaged.
    You have to take off 3 or 4 little screws under the dash above the passenger's feet to get up under there. Then you need to take off four or 5 screws that hold the glovebox up. You need to be able to see through that opening to see the vacuum lines coming in.
    I have a service manual so it's not as intimidating as it sounds to me.

    I moved around the vacuum lines and tried to disconnect the main one. The system started working better, so one of those lines wasn't connected well or something. The dealer had been into that area with a fan motor controller problem a couple years ago and the air never seemed to blow out as well after that.

    IF you have no vacuum to the controller box under there, the air should be coming out the defrost vents. That's what the system does when there's no vacuum to control it. Try feeling up there to see if you're getting air when you first start the car. Then see if it tries to move the air to other output after a minute or more of running the motor.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • henrylhenryl Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for all the advice It was tracked down to the main computer since it was the diaphram was tore and the lines were brittle. All the vaccum line from the a/c go to there. That is why it wasnt blowing hard till I got on the freeway. At idle speed the vaccum was low. Next problem a/c not cold. When the system was evacuated. The revious tech, put 1-1 1/2 oz of pag oil anf way too much freon. The gauges said 300psi high side and 36psi low side. Got that fixed now colder, but im still debating if i should replace the computer and the lines because its still going to be 900-1000 dollars. Its been to 4 a/c shops and every one told me something diffrent. The other shops told me what it was and when i could drop it off. This guy actually walked me through it and showed me the problem and explained it. Man it sure is hard to find a good tech. Also didnt charge to look at it. Thanks Guys
  • whitehairwhitehair Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Bonneville that has developed paint bubbling along the front edge of the hood. I am told this is aluminum corrosion and it is covered under a GM bulletin ID#1230005 and is referred to as premature aluminum hood corrosion/blistering. This document lists all makes & models of GM vehicles experiancing the same problem. It also appears on Buicks, Chevs, Olds. I experienced the problem at about 75000 miles and,like a darn fool, didn't complain about it until 92000 miles. I was told that I should call 1.800.GMcares and I soon found out GM does not care. I maintained it was the same as rust thru and should be covered for 6 yrs. or 100K miles. They say 36000 miles is all they will cover. I have since found out that in Wisconsin they are covering it to 100K but I live in Michigan and no such luck here. Anyone else experience this prob?
  • kz700kz700 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '93 Bonneville SE with 137K miles on it.
    Lately the car surges while maintaining a constant speed or under slight acceleration anywhere from 40 to 80 mph. It seems as though the transmission can't decide which gear to be in.
    I also notice a clunking metal sound while the car is in neutral or park and the revs are above 1200 RPM (such as after a cold start). I can also demonstrate the clunk if I increase the revs from idle while in neutral or park. I have seen some other posts related to these problems and am wondering if there is anything a non-mechanic can do?
    Thanks for any help.
  • iddaniddan Member Posts: 1
    This is my first post here so please bare with me. My wifes 98 bonneville's security light stays on and won't go off. Now at low speeds the cars chime goes off and the engine dies. You have to come to a complete stop and put the car in park to restart the engine. Somebody told me the chip in my key was bad. I have the same problem with 2 keys. Anybody have any suggestions?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Had mine come on in a 93 LeSabre. The wiring to the ignition where the key chip is sensed starts to break. It's multiple small wires and as they break, the resistance of the wire changes.

    The security light comes on. If the wire breaks completely, then the car won't start because the chip can not be sensed at all.

    I was hoping in 98 that flexing and breaking problem had been fixed. But the car shouldn't die from that once it's running, as I understand the setup.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • grannyj1956grannyj1956 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 ssei that also has major issues with water leaks. All started with windshield to trunk now to water in floorboards. Dealership has had my car 24 times due to leaking and other issues.
    Finally got windshield & trunk fixed but not the floor. I was looking for someone who had or has the same problems as I have had with their car. Mine comes up under the car when you are driving in the rain.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Wow, finally, after all this time someone else with a '93 signs on!
    My sister's (formerly my mom's) '93 SSEi has never had that sort of problem, but, I do know for a fact that there were many transmission failures in the '92-'94 Bonnevilles. A friend of mine had an SSE and had the transmission replaced somewhere around 150k miles. My sister's has 117k on it.
    As for the clunking, this car used to pop and "backfire" sometimes when you reved it up to a certain rpm, but I think it had something to do with a limiter to keep it from over-reving.

    As for leaks, I think thats been a problem with Bonnevilles dating back to the '92 generation. the '93 we had leaked quite a bit, and my dad took some silicone and filled in around all the doors, but water would still come in, presumably from the sunroof. I had a problem with a '98 Suzuki of water coming up through the floor, and it turned out it was a plastic cap that was supposed to be filling a hole in the floorboard had come out and was allowing water to come in. Especially a pain when you go through a car wash.
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    I have the same problem which I posted in past I think it was somewhere between post 1250-1300. I still have the shuttering at highway speeds I've been told its the Torque converter clutch and solinoid valve which comes down to I need to get transmission rebuilt.One thing that has helped was Lucas transmission treatment fluid.
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    I have a 1996 pontiac bonneville Se with 178303 miles. I been losing coolant about a half gallon every 4 days unknown if head gasket leak or dripping it out. The only drips i've seen is on the bottom of the back firewall where A/C condensation comes out but seems like a lot more then normal and not the red dexcool color.I cleaned the engine with Gunk engine cleaner and water hose the next day I had my check engine light come on which I was told was a code for Misfire cyclinder#6 and a loud ticking(like fuel injector but very loud). My mechanic thinks its a collapse lifter. As the engine was running the ticking stopped but engine light still on.I changed the #6 coil pack and engine light went off.Help any Ideas will be appreaciated,thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Pull the plugs and inspect for signs of coolant contamination. The upper intake plenum is probably warped in the EGR tube area, allowing coolant to enter the intake.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    What are the signs on plugs of coolant (Dexcool) contamination? What should I look for when I change my own plugs?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    White deposits on the spark plug electrodes, electrodes wet or very clean looking. Also, crank the engine over with the plugs out and look for any coolant or vapour coming out of the plug holes. We do that with a cooling system pressure tester installed, which will force coolant past leaks and into the cylinders.
  • bkm645bkm645 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 bonneville with 93k miles on it. And I drove to the mall in it but, when I came out to go home it would not start. The radio worked, but when I turned the key it did nothing. So I went to sears in the mall and bought a battery. Installed it, both of the screws were nice and tight, but it still would not start, it did the exact same thing. And help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Brian Mullins
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    Regarding post#1347-1350 I like to know if pulling plug and inspect for signs of coolant contamination. How will i know if i need intake plenum and/or head gasket? How can i determine if i need either one or both? when i turn key it cranks but takes a few seconds to run. I use a full gallon on one way 45 mile trip. No signs of leaks. when car idles it leaves one foot round wet spot but no white smoke. also when stop at light feels like it wants to stall and sputters. check engine light on steady and sometimes blinks, also traction off light goes on and off at times. Please alcan or anybody any help is appreciated,thanks. oil pressure at idle about 40-50.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the coolant level is dropping in the overflow tank but there are no external leaks, it has to be going somewhere and that somewhere is usually through a warped upper intake plenum. I've already posted how to check for this condition. Head gasket failures with 3800's are rare.

    1 full gallon of fuel for 45 miles = 45 m.p.g., very impressive gas mileage.

    The wet area is probably air conditioning condensate, normal.

    For the hard start, locate and remove the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator. If there's any evidence of gas in the hose, replace the regulator.

    If the check engine light is on have it scanned at any AutoZone (no charge) and post back with the stored trouble codes.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Did the dash warning lights stay on after you put the key in -- specifically did the 'security' light stay one. That means the key resistor wasn't being read right. It stays on for three minutes if you try turning the key 3 times and the resistor is wrong. After 3 minutes with a working resistor you can start the car.

    Do you have a second key? Try it -- if the security light on the dash is staying on. I had a problem a few times with dirt, lint, goop, on the resistor contacts not letting the reading be correct. Cleaning with pencil eraser works. But I had to try my second key.

    I also had the wire to the lock cylinder start breaking strands from flexing the tilt wheel up and down. That caused the light to go on but the car still started. If the wire breaks too many strands the resistor reading to far off and the car won't start because it thinks it's being stolen.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    1 gallon of antifreeze/water not fuel. the one foot round water spot is from the exhaust pipe(tail pipe). sorry i wasn't clear before. hope this helps you help me with more ideas. thanks Alcan(your an asset to the forum) and all.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    First, pick up a block and head check kit from any parts store. It checks for the presence of hydrocarbons (fuel) in the radiator. If so, a head gasket is blown or a head's cracked. Neither is likely.

    Next, remove the spark plugs and inspect them as mentioned previously, install a cooling system pressure tester on the radiator and leave it pumped up for a few minutes, unplug the wiring harness from the ignition module, crank the engine over, look for any coolant mist coming out of the plug holes. Probably #4 and #6, rear bank driver's side. Would probably also account for the check engine light, usually code P0300, random multiple engine misfire.

    The throttle body, which attaches to the upper intake plenum, has coolant passages around it to promote cold weather driveability and throttle response. The coolant passages are between the lower intake manifold and upper plenum. The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) tube is also right there, and heat from the exhaust gases degrades and warps the plenum over time. A slight gap develops between the manifold and plenum, coolant starts leaking into the manifold, and you now have an engine which consumes coolant.

    Keep driving it like that and you'll discover either A: coolant doesn't compress in cylinders and you have a bent connecting rod or wiped out rod bearing, or B: none of the engine bearings like being lubricated with coolant. Either way, you'll be looking for a replacement engine or scrapping the car if you don't get it corrected.
  • salesguy1963salesguy1963 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem in my 95 Bonneville- both with the security light and the alarm going off unexpectedly. Any information that would solve this problem would make me and my neighbors very happy.
  • bonni_cop_carbonni_cop_car Member Posts: 1
    hey, I was in a wreck 12 months ago and my weather stripping around the window and driver and passenger doors woun't hold a seal. do ya have any advice???
  • slicksickwillyslicksickwilly Member Posts: 12
    If your weather stripping is new or in good shape theres not much you can do there..If it is mushed, cracked of extremely flimsy then replacing might solve the problem. If the door is slightly out of alignment then you will have to adjust it at the hinges. Open and close the door a few times very slowly and listen for a perfect click.. If its hitting hi or low you will be able to tell.. Good Luck with it
  • wingnut8wingnut8 Member Posts: 9
    I have 1997 bonneville with climate control. The blower motor is going on & off even though the display shows high. Does anyone have any ideas.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Had problem with blower motor changing speed and not going on higher speeds. It was a control panel for the speed adjustment... don't know the name. B ut it was an expensive repair for a 'switch.'

    It had a power transistor on it and some small items. Maybe about 4 inches by 2.5 inches.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    In regards to previous post#1347,1352.I changed the intake plenum which did have holes in EGR ports. Shame on GM for not making good to customers(hope to see classaction lawsuit some day). I still can't get car running. It cranks over but won't run. If I feather(pump) the gas while turning key it seems like it wants to run,also strong smell of gas and black puff of smoke out of exhaust. I don't have a fuel pressure gage or scan tool so I'm limited. I pressed the schradder valve in on fuel rail and get a small one second squirt of gas with key on. I never took out plugs because they were in too tight and were affraid of breaking.any suggestions are appreciated.
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    I changed the fuel filter now I get a good stream of fuel when I press the schadder valve.I hear fuel pump come on when key is turned.Is there anyway to read check engine codes without a scanner?Car still will crank over but don't start.
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    Well alcan was right on target.It was tghe spark plugs I had car towed to King Bear St James,NY who charged me a whopping $199 to change plugs and so call tune up.The only tune up was my wallet.no wires just plugs.so a little advise before you get overcharged(ripped off)listen to Alcan.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    the service he provides here. He helped me without making me feel dumb. I cleaned my own throttle body - got rid of the sticking accelerator.

    His wealth of knowledge is appreciated here.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Well, if they used ACDelco platinum plugs (what it calls for) they're $13 and change each here in the Frozen North and not the easiest to reach, so that price isn't really too bad. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
  • bonnevillesseibonnevillessei Member Posts: 11
    2000 bonne ssei Part of the numbers display on the radio will not light. Can this be repaired? Thanks for any reply.
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    My radio had the same issue on my '00 SLE, but I was luckier that it was still under warranty...

    Good luck.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    We had this exact same problem with my mom's '93 SSEi. We went into Subway to get dinner to take home, came back outside and it wouldn't start. All the electronics worked, but turn the key and you didn't even get a click. It ended up being the starter. If you have a wrench or something similar, if it happens again, get under the car and hit the starter a few times with the wrench, then it should start. If it doesn't, then it's probably not the starter. Also helps if you have someone in the car turning the key while you're hitting the starter. It's a common problem with GM vehicles, especially '90s models, for starters to go out. My neighbor's '97 Chevy Silverado did the same thing. I had jumped her off once when it wouldn't start, then when she came to me a second time for help, we looked at the starter, because even hooking it up to my explorer with jumper cables wouldn't turn it over. After getting underneath and hitting the starter a few times, it fired right up.
    After replacing the starter on the SSEi, never had another problem with it starting.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    My parents gave my sister the SSEi when mom got a '00 LeSabre in August, and after putting 3k miles on it already, now she's having a problem with it missing. I'm describing the problem as she's told us about it, I've not seen her or the car since she took it home to NC on Labor Day.
    When accellerating normally...not lightly nor flooring it, it jerks and vibrates, she described it as running over the grooves on the interstate when you go outside your lane or when approaching an intersection that has the grooves in the pavement before you get to the stop sign. Her husband replaced spark plugs and plug wires, but the problem is still there. We always had a problem with it missing from the time we got it in '96. But, it was never as severe as she's describing it. What could it be? Any ideas?
  • leerebelleerebel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Bonneville SSEI. I have always had a problem with it hesitating and jerking during mild acceleration especially at the 40 to 50 mph range. I have carried it in to the dealer at least 10 times and they have never fixed the problem. They have even changed out my turbo charger. I know of one other person who had the exact same problem and finally traded his in because it could not be fixed. I think it may be in the transmission or torque converter but that is just a guess. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks,

      Randy
  • chasbvillechasbville Member Posts: 12
    Hi all. Still putting miles on my 94 SE, it's up to 115K with ONLY five alternators so far. Been having a problem with it stalling out going downhill (here in SF, that's a problem), usually with a full or near full tank. Nothing precipitates the stall, it just cuts out and then starts right back up in neutral with a turn of the key. I've replaced the fuel filter, plugs, throttle pos. sensor, crank pos. sensor, the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, cleaned the EGR. No codes have been thrown. Any suggestions? Thanx and keep on wide trackin'.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    In regards to your alternators, I hope that you've discovered Advanced Auto Parts and their "Lifetime Warranty." After the 2nd Alternator went out on our '93, we got one from Advanced, and from then on it was never a question of cost. Just take the old one off, take it to Advanced along with the original receipt, pick up the new on, put it on and there ya go for another 20-40k miles.
  • pontiacrickpontiacrick Member Posts: 26
    My SLE developed the binding feel in the steering shaft early last spring. During the summer months it was not as noticable, now with the return of cool weather, it started again. Took it to the dealer and they sd they are now replacing the shaft rather than lubricating it. They claim the lube process was only a temporary fix. They replaced the steering shaft (with a new design so they say). Now, with the new steering shaft, the feel is much tighter...almost too much so, since on a recent trip on the interstate, it seemed as if I kept over correcting the steering. It cd be I'm just not used to the tighter feel yet. Also, I had both tie-rods replaced, dealer claimed they were worn.(?) (28,000 miles). I had noticed the front suspension was a little noisier lately. Anyway, all seems fine now, just hope I get used to the tighter feel of the steering column.
    Was wondering if anyone else have had the steering shaft replaced and if so, noticed any difference in the "feel".
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Can somebody explain to me how this might happen????

    My sister, now the owner of my mom's old '93 SSEi, was driving down an NC interstate last week when a rock was thrown from a tractor trailer, and she hear it pop the roof of the car. When she got to her destination and got out of the car, she looked at the roof, only to discover something unbelievable: The rock had hit the sunroof and shattered it. There was a bit hole right in the center of it where the rock hit, and the entire glass was shattered. She now has it oh-so-tastefully duct-taped.

    How might one go about finding a replacment glass for the sunroof? Is it even possible? I wasn't sure if she'd have to go to a junk yard and get one or if she could get one from a regular glass place. Any ideas? Also, would one of those wind guards that cover the front section of the sunroof have prevented such an incident?
  • dhaagdhaag Member Posts: 1
    Dumb question, where is the drain for the radiator?
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I posted about this a while back, and finally found out yesterday what the problem is. My sister came up for Thanksgiving, and she took the Bonneville to the local garage, which serviced it the whole time my parents had it. The transmission fluid had never been changed, primarily because it'd never created a problem for us. After the mechanic rode in it, he diagnosed the problem as the torque converter. When they changed the fluid, the mechanic said that the fluid was burnt, therefore he suggests not only a torque converter, but a whole new transmission. He quoted a price of between $1400 and $1600, and I think the car might actually be worth $2k or $2500. Add to the cost of the new transmission the cost of replacing the sunroof, and you've got how much the car is worth. I have a feeling that she'll be looking for a new car soon. No use putting that money into something thats only worth as much, when she could put it towards something newer. She's only had the car barely 3 months (my parents gave it to her on Labor Day), and it's now got 122k miles on it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    " she took the Bonneville to the local garage, which serviced it the whole time my parents had it. The transmission fluid had never been changed, primarily because it'd never created a problem for us"

    The garage serviced it but never changed the transmission fluid on a car with 122K???? I think I'd find another garage that would do a proper service and maintenance schedule on my car.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Since routine transmission fluid changes were not required for the bonneville, the garage never suggested changing the fluid nor did my dad ever ask for it to be done. Unlike my Explorer, which has to have the transmission fluid changed every 30k miles. The guy we spoke with is a transmission expert, and he said that if you've never had the fluid changed on a high mileage vehicle, you're better off not to change it. He said that most times you do more harm than good to change the fluid on a high mileage vehicle thats never had the fluid changed before...if that makes any sense.
  • desertrat5desertrat5 Member Posts: 85
    Not sure which forum to ask this question. The Buick forum is not very active but the Pontiac is and I have both a Buick and Pontiac so here goes.
    I just had a LOF and engine detail on my wife's 2000 Ultra. Now the DIC shows 129 psi oil pressure regardless of engine RPM. I have never seen it that high and I have never seen it rock solid unchanging. Is it possible that water from the engine detail has messed with a connection somewhere (all the other DIC indicators seem to be working okay)? Or could they have done something in the oil change to make the pressure that high?
    My 04 Bonneville SLE has a gage which typically shows between 60 and 80 psi oil pressure. The gage does sweep from 0 to 120 back to 0 at startup before registering the actual pressure.

    Thanks in advance for any info

    Bob
  • marks4marks4 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 2000 SEii that averaged 23.8 mpg over its 96,000 miles. I now have a 2004 GXP that is averaging 18.3 mpg over the last 6,500 miles. That's a drop of some 23% with the same drag coefficients and nearly the same power rating, Is anyone else noticing this kind of mileage? The dealer says everything "checks out."
  • desertrat5desertrat5 Member Posts: 85
    My wife has a Buick Ultra with the supercharged 3.8 and it provides an excellent compromise of performance and economy. So when I went car shopping earlier this year I was very disappointed to find that Pontiac had replaced that engine with the Northstar. I bought an SLE and am happy with it but the extra performance of the supercharger is missed. Not sure why Pontiac made the switch. The Northstar is a great engine but it displaces more and requires a deeper final drive ratio to provide performance - hence it sucks when it comes to highway economy. Hope someone from Pontiac is reading this and offers the SCd 3.8 again in the Bonnie. They offer it in the Grand Prix and have even managed to tweak a few more horsepower out of it so why not tweak it again and put it back in the Bonnie.
  • pontiac1pontiac1 Member Posts: 6
    i have a 2000 pontiac bonneville sse and right rear window regulator needs replaced.what i need is a few tips as to how to remove the inside door panel. i have power windows and locks.if the regulator is bad, is there a way to hold window in upright position untill i can get a new regulator? thanks in advance
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Removal Procedure

    Insert a flat bladed tool behind the forward upper edge of the door handle bezel.

    Gently pry the upper portion of the bezel away from the door trim panel.

    Pull the bezel forward over the inside door handle.

    Release the retainers around the outside edges of the door trim panel.

    Rock the door trim panel upwards, starting at the rear, while lifting upwards to remove.

    Disconnect the door trim panel wiring harness.

    Remove the armrest pull cup retainers from the inside of the door trim panel.

    Use needle nose pliers to compress the 360 clip.

    Pull the 360 clip out of the nylon nut on the door trim panel.

    Disconnect the electrical connectors.

    Remove the door control module fasteners.

    Remove the door control module.

    Remove the push in retainers at the upper corners of the water deflector.

    Push the wiring harness through the slit in the water deflector.

    Carefully peel the water deflector away from the door, being careful not to damage the butyl sealing strip.

    Loosen the window retainer to window clamp fasteners 4 revolutions.

    Lower the window regulator about half way down.

    Disconnect the electrical connector from the power window motor.

    Remove the window regulator to inner door panel fasteners.

    Tilt the motor end of the window regulator to the forward end of the door.

    Tilt the top of the regulator toward the lower rear corner of the door.

    Remove the regulator through the front access hole in the door panel.
  • dachsundsdachsunds Member Posts: 1
    The exact same thing happened to me. Naturally this had to happen in sub-zero weather. The medium size suction cups that you see on windows, etc. to display suncatchers, etc. Works perfect. You will need two or three. Pull window up place the suction cups at the bottom of the window. It will hold it in place.
  • scotishguy88scotishguy88 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had a similar problem with a bonnie. It seems to skip from side to side in the rear end when going over a bump and jumps around in the snow.

     

    Kinda feels like it is being tossed around on a windy day, when the weather is fine.

     

    Tire are new and the struts look good. GM cannot find anything wrong with it.

     

    What have you done to fix the problem?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Has the alignment been reset to "right on"? My service manager had talked about slight misalignment causing hunting in the rear of cars.

     

    People often don't realize they could drive straighter if the rear is in perfect alignment. His example was where the road is grooved out by the heavy trucks damaging the pavement. When people drive there the car wants to wander a lot more than on a flat road. Align the rear and that hunting goes away to a great degree.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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