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Comments
Al
Valve Cover
GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre 1986-1999
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3.8L (VIN 1, C and L) Engine - Except 1995-99 VIN 1 Models1
LEFT SIDE (FRONT) COVER
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the serpentine drive belt.
Remove the alternator-to-brace bolt, then remove the brace.
Remove the spark plug wire harness and position aside.
Remove the valve cover retaining bolts and remove the cover. It may be necessary to tap the cover lightly with a rubber mallet in order to dislodge it.
Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces and clean and dry all parts.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Place the gasket into position, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads, then install the bolts and tighten them to 89 inch lbs. (50 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Run the engine and check for leaks.
RIGHT SIDE (REAR) COVER
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the accessory drive belt(s).
Without disconnecting the fluid lines, unbolt the power steering pump and position it aside.
Remove the power steering pump braces.
Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires.
For 3.8L (VIN C) engines, perform the following:
- Remove the EGR pipe.
- Remove the EGR valve and adapter from the throttle body adapter.
Unfasten the valve cover retaining bolts, then remove the cover. It may be necessary to tap the cover lightly with a rubber mallet in order to dislodge it.
Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces and clean and dry all parts.
To install:
Place the gasket into position, apply thread-locking compound to the threads, then install the bolts and tighten them to 89 inch lbs. (50 Nm).
If equipped with a 3.8L (VIN C) engine, perform the following:
- Install the EGR valve and adapter to the throttle body adapter.
- Install the EGR pipe.
Install the power steering pump braces.
Place the power steering pump into position and secure with the mounting bolts.
Install the accessory drive belt(s).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Al
Also, to any of you out there who may be interested, but have you looked in your owners manual and read how it recommends you operate the transmission? My sister's torque converter is going out, so she can't run it in OD anymore. According to the manual, OD is "for interstate driving only." She feels that had the car been driven in Drive all along, with the exception of the occasional interstate trip, the life of the torque converter and transmission may have been lengthened. You may want to tell your wife that, avux, to save replacing the transmission at a cost even with how much the car is worth.
Happy to say I did find one that was ideally equipped (chromes, HUD, and heated seats).
It is hard to beat the 3.8 on any count - fine economy, good performance, reliable, durable, and smooth running.
The 3.8 is indeed an example of an excellent compromise - it does everything pretty well! I am saddened that even the SCd version in the Grand Prix is going away this summer to be replaced with an alumimun small block V-8 with some Corvette heritage. Here comes premium fuel and not so good mileage. Of course, GM could come up with a 5-speed auto that allows a deeper final drive for performance and a really lonnnng OD 5th to bring the revs back down when cruising.
I am tempted to replace my wife's 2000 Ultra with a new one just to get one last 3.8 with a SC.
Bob
I have a 98 SSE- auto climate control- back in Dec. the blower for my climate control would work one day then stop working the next day- sometimes it worked in the morning and later on the same day it stopped working- after checking out all of the obvious area's- fuses,connections etc.- still keep working on and off- I checked with my friends at the BONNEVILLE CLUB forum for help also.
The problem was a BAD SPOT on the blower motor- had it replaced last week- Climate control blower is working great. (Nice to have HEAT again!!!)
Chuck.
The engine light began flashing immediately and kept flashing. The car sputtered and misfired repeatedly and thick, blue smoke spewed from the tailpipe. It didn't smell like oil at all. It smelled like nothing I've ever smelled - or would want to smell again! The smell filled the interior of the car even though all the windows and outside vents were closed. My eyes stung from whatever it was.
The drivers manual said it was ok to drive (right back to the garage) so I took it slow and easy. The smoke and misfires got worse. At one point I pulled over to check under the hood to see if anything was leaking and to check the oil level. Didn't see anything unusual. Throughout the drive the engine light continued flashing. A couple of times it stayed on, but then resumed flashing.
The garage couldn't look at it until the next morning. Guess what? They said they couldn't get the car to repeat the problem. They kept it an extra day to drive it; still no problems.
This doesn't surprise me, because except for the blue smoke, that was what the car did BEFORE we replaced the Plenum. It either started and ran great, or it did what I described above. I'd let it sit a day and try it again, and it would be fine.
Should I mention that the antilock brake light stayed on for months in spite of repeated trips to the garage- and they couldn't determine what the problem was? Did I mention that my heads-up display works off and on as well?
This car has made more trips to the garage in one year than my Corsica has in the 15 years, 179K miles I've owned it. I bought the Bonne to replace the Corsica. Good thing I didn't give up the old car!
I just spent a bundle to repair a problem that still isn't fixed. No wonder these cars have low resale value! I'm really at a loss, financially and otherwise. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Had no problems, except that I discovered that a Bonne is the only car in my price range that I really like. I can't believe after all the problems my '98 has given us that I'd ever consider buying another.
Two more questions: First, can you suggest which Bonne model years from 2001-04 seem to offer the fewest problems? Second questions, what is the difference between a series II and series III engine? Which is more reliable/trouble free? My thanks.
2)I just got a check engine light with the code P0401 EGR insuffient flow. Any Ideas of what to do or how to correct this? No noticable performance problems.
Re the P0401, what year is it?
The easiest solution to the leaking trunk is to just take the spare tire out and drill a hole in the bottom of the " well". Then, don't put anything in the trunk you don't want ruined.
My car has 147,000 miles on it, and it has never failed to crank, but as far as stuff like this, it's a piece of junk. The list is too long to get involved with. The strange thing about it, my car gets 29 mpg on the road, plenty of horsepower, is an excellent car to take on those 2,000 mile trips, and everyone loves it's appearance. I just can't stand water inside of my car !!!!
may help. It lists the places to check and seal. Does anyone have the TSB? If not this link gets you to a forum. Post the question for a TSB and someone will supply the text!!!
markswalk1, "Technical Service Bulletins" #377, 13 Feb 2005 1:47 pm
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I really don't have bad feelings on the trans job, the rebuilt was pricey ($2000) but warranted for 3 years and 50K miles. GM calims that any improvements made to the design were incorporated into the rebuilt unit.
That means a pollution control problem. One is that the pressuring test isn't passing.
Check the gas cap!!! Check the rubber ring and see if it appears to be sealing against the metal of the tank tube. Put some petroleum jelly on it.
Look under the air intake filter holder for the tubes going to and from the box hidden under it. (I assume your layout's the same as my LeSabre.) A tube pulled off there can upset the tank seal.
The most likely cause is a gas cap not on and sealed. The test is done when the engine is slightly warmed up. And then is restarted. I'm guessing it's above 110 degrees but below an upper level. Only when started at that range is the pressure test done.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I currently have a 2004 GXP and a 2004 GP GTP, and the stump-pulling power of the N* wins hands down. This thing just keeps going. Not going to go into details, but the Bonny has over 20 MPH faster than the GTP on the top end, and it was still climbing.
Don's get me wrong. I agree the 3.8 Liter is a great, reliable motor. The GTP is my 3rd 3800 equipped car (All GP's) and it is a rocket out of the hole. But once the supercharger maxes out, all thats left is a V-6 to keep it going...
Repeat trips for anti-lock brake and engine light code issues. Anti-lock still not right, and having to replace brake pads every 2-4 months! (luckily, brake pads are still under warranty, but this is ridiculous!)
Replaced the plenum last month to resolve engine light/performance problems. No improvement! Engine light still flashes when accelerating; feel car missing- poor performance.
When I take it back to the shop, they say they can't get it to reproduce the problem. Before I get home with it, the engine light is flashing again and the car is driving rough. Just had the plugs and wiring replaced- still no good.
Now they tell me the plenum is leaking again.
During the few days it wasn't in the shop, the interior lamps wouldn't turn off while I was driving it.
Please tell me... was '98 just a bad year, or are these problems common to Bonne's in general?
My husband wants to get another Bonne - It's the first time I've doubted his sanity!
Comments, suggestions please.
My only suggestion it to find someone who can fix something.
1. The same problems I've noted are listed repeatedly in posts throughout this forum. They too complain that these problems keep re-occuring despite repair.
2. We use ASE Certified GM specialty Master Mechanics trained at the #1 Auto Tech program in the U.S. -from two different, well respected shops. The last trip was to the largest Pontiac dealer in our area. We are not dealing with backyard-type mechanics!
3. We own a '91 Chevy Corsica, 178K miles- that has only required a water pump repair in the 14 years we've owned it.
4. Our '82 Honda had 190K miles on it when we sold it- It too only required a water pump
5. Our '79 AMC Jeep J10 is still running, quadratrack and all- It's repairs haven't totaled $1200 in its lifetime.
This Pontiac has had an easy life. It has 106K, true- but all highway miles, and I don't 'get on it.' It has been kept on a religious maintenance schedule.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
IF you connect the correct battery cable directly to the starter terminal, does the thing crank? IF you're not sure which does what there, have someone who's done this before jump the solenoid connection that normally gets power from the key switch.
You might have a corroded out cable to the starter from the battery. Try paralleling a jumper cable from red battery post to red terminal on the starter.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
But, I am told the problem is in the door latch switch, but I would like to have someone verify the name...is it door lock relay, or door lock switch or door relay, etc?
Finally, how can I fix this myself? I assume I have to remove the driver's side door panel to get at the switch or relay, but how do I do this and is there a good instruction book with photos or is there something online for free?
thanks bowtie 1