Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The bottom of the programmer has an electric motor in it and connects to a metal rod that snaps into a white plastic snapto thingie that moves back and forth. I believe that one is the passenger side control to adjust the relative heat/cool going to the passenger.
I don't recall if the upper problem was a motor not working and he didn't want to take out the hush panel, glovebox and try to replace it -- it might require removing something higher on the dash for easier access...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks,
Preston
I assume the new motor has new GM plugs and new GM wiring? That would be my first place to start. At 70K and 12 years it's due if they were not already replaced.
Second check might be the coils, but I'm not sure about symptoms on the coils from reading all the discussions. I'll leave that to knowledgeable people.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It's in front of the right rear wheel and up next to the frame rail. You relieve pressure or let the car sit overnight, jack up car slightly, put jackstand under rail in case jack lets go when you jiggle the car, and push in on clips and release the line then use wrenches on the other end. If you have the older location it's under the passenger's foot-a lot harder to get to requiring jackstands and some time.
I'd do OEM GM or NAPA wires and GM plugs first if you don't know they're new within 20K.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
-haro
12-15 DEGREES(2X & 2 MONTHS APART),
THE - SEVICE STABLEIZER SYSTEM - WARNING CAME ON WITHIN 1 MI. OF NEIGHBORHOOD DRIVING . MY MECHANIC SAYS IF IT WAS A PROBLEM THE COMPUTER WOULD SPECIFY THAT MORE FREQUENTLY .
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? AND HOW DO YOU SERVICE THE SYSTEM ?
My 2002 Bonneville make a whining noise when I make a turn (left or right) AND accelerating at 20-40 mph. This noise sounds similar to a bad transmission gear noise.
If I am coasting or braking when making a turn then there is no noise.
Does anyone have any idea what this might be? Is this a serious problem that should be fixed immediately?
Thanks.
Here's the secret: your boost gauge works on the same principle as a vacuum gauge on a non-supercharged engine. It measures pressure in the intake manifold, both negative (vacuum) and positive ("boost"). The only difference is that a vacuum gauge on a non-supercharged engine doesn't have a positive range. This makes sense, because the only way a non-boosted engine could generate positive pressure in the intake manifold is if you ran it backward.
Any running engine is sucking air down its intake. If you can find a naturally aspirated car with a vacuum gauge and watch it (some cars in the 80s used to call them "economy gauges"), you will see it gives the same type of readings under the same conditions as your boost gauge. A vacuum gauge shows higher manifold vacuum (that's greater negative PSI) when the throttle is closed or the engine is decelerating. That's because the engine is pulling really hard to suck enough air through a tiny opening. To demonstrate, pucker your lips and inhale fast - watch your cheeks pull in with the negative pressure.
Now try the same with your mouth wide open. This is what happens when you step on the gas - you open the throttle and the wider opening reduces the negative (vacuum) pressure in the manifold, because more air can now get in. This makes the gauge swing 'up' toward zero - but a vacuum gauge doesn't quite reach zero unless the engine stops running, because any time you're sucking any air this creates a manifold pressure that's lower than atmospheric pressure. (Tip: "Zero" on a vacuum or boost gauge = atmospheric pressure.)
Again, the only difference on your car is that with a supercharger adding pressure to the intake manifold you will eventually get into positive PSI ("negative vacuum?") when the throttle is open wide enough, the load is high enough, and/or the revs are high enough.
But even before the gauge swings above zero, your engine is getting the benefit of added air pressure and volume from the supercharger. More air down the intake = more fuel = more power. There is never a "drain" from your supercharger reflected on the boost gauge - it only shows the pressure of the air the car is inhaling. As a matter of fact, the extra "drag" imposed on the engine from having to spin the supercharger belt would actually be reflected in a slight INCREASE in boost on the gauge. (If that doesn't make sense read on.)
The highest pressure that the stock supercharger on our cars is supposed to generate is 8psi - at that point a dump valve spits out the extra pressure before it turns our engines into giant grenades. If your gauge ever lingers in the red zone above + 8psi, it probably means you have a bad dump valve and you should fix it quick.
Other than that, only two types of readings indicate engine trouble on a boost or vacuum gauge. (1) Vacuum not high enough at idle indicates a vacuum leak. Your gauge should be pegged in negative territory at idle. It might creep up a little when you put it in gear, and a bit more when you turn on the A/C. This reflects the load on the engine. (Get it? More engine effort = lower vacuum, and eventually positive boost if you have a blower.)
(2) Erratic vacuum readings indicate rough running, like a cylinder missing its spark or leaking/mis-timed valves. I'm not talking about a gauge that swings wildly when you change throttle position - it's supposed to do that. I mean a needle that wobbles or jumps around, especially if you're not moving the throttle and the engine load is constant.
That's about all I can add - your car sounds like it's fine. Hope this helps!
HTH
12-15 DEGREES(2X & 2 MONTHS APART),
THE - SEVICE STABLEIZER SYSTEM - WARNING CAME ON WITHIN 1 MI. OF NEIGHBORHOOD DRIVING . MY MECHANIC SAYS IF IT WAS A PROBLEM THE COMPUTER WOULD SPECIFY THAT MORE FREQUENTLY .
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? AND HOW DO YOU SERVICE THE SYSTEM ?
My car is idleing rough. and it dies at stop lights. it feels like its not gettin gas. and when im driving it has no more acceleration. it used to be quick when i stepped on the gas. but now it hesitates. and i can hear the engine and the rpm but it doesnt even feel like its going anywhere. could it be a second fuel filter?
If you check my earlier message 1747, you may find it applicable to your problem. In fact, my Bonny 95 was idling rough but never died. I also felt it was not as quick as I was used to. But after 2 applications of Chevron-Techron fuel injector cleaner and switching to Chevron gas, my problems are gone.
-haro
I hope you used OEM quality wires and GM plugs. How many miles are on your car?
You might check to be sure all your wires are still in place and connected.
If you try the Techron, put in at nearly empty tank and fill up with number of gallons for the size bottle you bought-I don't remember the two sizes they have. They have an injector cleaner and they have a fuel system cleaner. You might look for the fuel system cleaner. Use premium brand name fuel.
Drive.
When down again if problem still there, repeat and fill up proper amount of premium fuel. Do not use again for a third time.
Usually when I put it in, I notice a difference in 10 miles or so. It doesn't take using the whole tank to feel and hear an improvement.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Do the rear-facing drains come out in front of the rear wheels? I'm trying to remember what posters have said in other discussions.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I was told not to drive it until after it was hooked up to a systems monitor to check out what the computer says.
I did put in a fuel system cleaner. However, I have not driven 10 or more miles on it since then. Also have not been using premium fuel. (Little expensive for a teacher's salary)
In other words, it's safest to stay with strictly GM wires or a true equivalent like NAPA's OEM. I think Belden makes an OEM level. I wouldn't put on the cheaper, hotrodder type wires that you may see or be pushed to buy at some auto parts stores.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I don't have sunroofs and never have since 1979 Mustang Pace Car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I actually did remove courtesy handle before I could see and fix the problem. I also remember it was not so easy to remove the handle, because most small plastic parts would break. Good luck!
-haro
Mike
Mike
The VATS can be bypassed but you may have the earlier system that Passkey II.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The discription of the code acording to alldatapro.com is "58"-PASS Key (VATS) Fuel Enable Circuit.....Anyone???
If anyone has any suggestions we sure would appreciate your help.