Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

1343537394044

Comments

  • djohn81641djohn81641 Member Posts: 13
    I am looking for the tire inflator hose for the trunk air pump. I went to the dealer, and was told that I would have to order the entire trunk kit just get the air hose. This kit is 300.00, and I have everything but the hose. Does anyone know where I could get just the air inflator hose that connects to the air pump. Thanks for your help.
  • djohn81641djohn81641 Member Posts: 13
    Does anyone know where I can get the tire inflator hose for the trunk air pump. I went to the dealer and they said I would have to buy the whole trunk kit which is $300.00. But I have all the items except the hose. So if anyone knows where I can get the hose only, please let me know.
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    eBay! Most late model GM inflator hoses should be the same. I just looked and found one for about $25 and another for about $50.
  • samiam6samiam6 Member Posts: 6
    changed camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition module, don't believe it's the camshaft magnate because problem was intermitant when it started.....next thing to do....file taxes to get money for repair shop!!!
  • lash92sseilash92ssei Member Posts: 35
    Thinking about using my 92 Bonnie SSEi for towing my bike. I believe it already has a factory cooler for the trans. Saw this hitch on e-bay. Anyone used it? If so any problems with install?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pontiac-Bonneville-SSE-SSEI-Trailer-Hitch-92-99_W- 0QQitemZ8037922968QQcategoryZ33653QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Looks OK except for the cheesey grade 5 bolts supplied with it. Replace them with grade 8 (6 lines on the bolt head) hardened bolts and nuts.
  • dadscar2dadscar2 Member Posts: 10
    Here is an alternative. I bought a 15 ft. Air Transfer hose at an auto store for about $5 since the kit was missing from my Bonne. It has the fittings for a schraeder valve on each end so it works on the pump in the trunk and on the tire valve. The package lists the manufacturer as www.impact-performance.com, but I could not get that site to appear. and you might be able to find it at an outdoor equipment/camping store as well.
  • 87bonneville87bonneville Member Posts: 3
    OOOOhhhh boy! Where do I start? At the beginning I guess. 2 weeks ago, my 87 Bonneville (only about 72k miles on it, bought it a couple of years ago from older lady) wouldn't start after I picked up a pizza. Battery was suddenly too low. Jump started it and drove it home, dying twice more in intersections on the way. Next day, checked the battery, it was OK. Had parts store check alternator, it was bad so I replaced it. Charged up the battery and car would crank but not start. Figured it must be tune-up time, replaced plugs and plug wires. Put some "Seafoam" cleaner stuff in tank. Car now starts and drives, but misses BAD. I notice that, for some weird reason, my speedometer was pegged at maximum mph, and not working, read same even with the ignition off and keys removed! Old plugs were hardly worn, but black and wettish. At first never got any codes at all. After replacing plugs and plug wires and starting it, got code 44 (lean condition). For some reason, speedometer back to normal now (???)and working. I checked the fuel pressure on the fuel rail, was at 0 with key on, at cranking, fuel pressure went to around 41 lbs, after starting dropped to about 30 lbs pressure and held there while running. So - I figured must be a bad O2 sensor, replaced that about 15 minutes ago, but it STILL runs crappy, missing on one or more cylinders. If possible, it seems to run slightly WORSE since I replaced the 02 sensor. although it was running pretty badly before. Anyone have any ideas? Please let me know! Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I assume you used a GM Oxygen sensor... Off brands can give trouble.

    Because of speedometer problem I suspect something like a neighbor had on a Toronado my neighbor worked on for his dad: bad computer. It missed erratically, sputtered, sometimes started hard, sometimes easier.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • stic21stic21 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Bonneville and I drove it to a destination earlier today when I came back to the car I could not start it. The steering wheel unlocks. I moved the gear shifter from park to neutral and tried to start, got nothing. The security system light on the dash blinks. The starter will turn the engine over using a screw driver, with the ignition on "on run", but it won't stay running
  • llcwllcw Member Posts: 1
    I have had my bonneville for about 3 months I love the car all of a sudden sometimes after driving it a short distance it wont fire the battery and starter are good it acts like it isnt getting gas I took it to a shop they replaced a fuel vacumn line and while they had it they said the serpenten belt needed replaced and the front struts and mounts so i had them fix all of that and do the oil change it cost me $1222.47 when i went to pick up my car it still didnt start so they kept it and said the harmonic balancer needed replaced so i paid $250.00 for that the car ran great for one day now it is doing the same thing again could it be a sensor or the control modul?
    I cant keep forking out that kind of money.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    You need to find a place that isn't hanging and selling parts and that will do testing to find what's really wrong. You don't say how many miles and what year your Bonnie is but it sounds like they found someone to pay the bills for them.

    Find a good garage by referrals from friends or coworkers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mtandstmtandst Member Posts: 5
    Still have questions after reading a couple of posts:

    My 95 Bonneville has around 58,000 miles. Around 9 mos ago I started having a problem with my Security Light staying on...after initial attempt to start the car.

    When I got the car manual out...it stated that perhaps the chip on my key...was dirty. Also, everytime you try to start your car...and it doesn't start...the red security light will come on and stay ON for 3 mins. When it goes off you can then try to start the car again. (Not a good thing when you are in a grocery store parking lot...with ice cream in your trunk...and it is 95 degrees outside) :mad:

    Since, that first experience with the security light...I have also had several other times...where this has happened. Usually, the car will start right up after...waiting out the 3 mins. for the security light to go out. Just a couple of times...I have had to wait it out for 2 attempts at starting (6 mins).

    I have 2 keys. Tried cleaning them both...and using them both. I am thinking that this is not the problem...because I could not tell much difference between using the two keys...plus the problem still occurs...from time to time.

    My question is....

    What exactly is it that needs to be replaced...and approximately what would the cost be? Is it the lock cylinder or the ignition module or the switch and wires?
    Are some of these fixes...one in the same...but different folks call them something different, etc? :confuse:

    I will tell you that I am a woman...and I don't know exactly what all those terms are or if they might be the same thing due to my lack of knowledge on cars and car parts.

    If I do not fix the car soon...Could it be possible that one day when I go to start the car...it will just not start anymore and I would then have to have it towed to a garage...since I guess I would not be able to have the car jumped since I would not be able to have the key start and turn the car engine on...CORRECT? Or...will I always be able to continue to start the car...but just have to be prepared to wait it out for the 3 or 6 mins...whenever the car decides it dosen't want to start...whenever...or where ever...?????? :confuse:

    Any info you can give me on the proper terms of the names of the parts and cost of such to repair would be appreciated. :)

    Thanks in advance for reading and any help you can send my way I would certainly appreciate.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I have been through a little of this. I have a 98 LeSabre and the key didn't make good contact recently when I went to start it. I had to wait the 3 minutes since I didn't realize it wasn't cranking when I twisted the first two times. I cleaned the keys with alcohol and rubbed both contacts with a rubber pencil eraser-the red kind. I still had the VATS light come on while I was driving a couple of times, but it would go off after a few minutes or when I hit a bump one time.

    I read up more and dipped the key in alcohol and quickly inserted it into the key cylinder to carry alcohol in with it to clean the two contacts that are inside there. That's what I'd recommend you do.

    I had lubed the key cylinder in the fall with graphite in a squeeze tube but it was different than the fine power I had used before (could't find the old one). I think that hurt the contact ability somehow.

    The VATS light quit coming on after that. That's been 5000 miles ago or so now.

    Unless your VATS (security) light comes on and stays on you may not have a fatal problem. There is a bypass method requiring cutting a plastic tube with the two wires in it near the lower part of the steering column and connecting those two with a resistor of the proper resistance to replace the key reading at the top of the column.

    I had a 93 LeSabre and the VATS light came on and I had the dealer do the repair (they didn't tell me there was a bypass). They replaced key cylinder and two new keys and it was $100 and more. Don't recall exactly.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mtandstmtandst Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your reply... imidazol97 :)

    When I cleaned my keys (before)...I did not use the eraser method you mention...(I will try that)...but I did clean them off with alcohol. However...I did not put alcohol on the key...and try to hurriedly put the key into the key cylinder before the alcohol falls off. That could be tricky...but I shall give it a try for sure.

    I did take a dry swab...and try to put it into the key cylinder and rub it gently back and forth being careful not to loose any cotton in there. I did not really see any dirt on the swab from doing that...But I am not really sure what I was even trying to clean. :)

    Did the method with the graphite work for you...or not work for you? You mentioned that you weren't sure and may have hurt the contact ablility...but then you mentioned that it has been 5000 miles later...and you have not had a problem. :confuse:

    Why did you think it hurt the contact ability? I was thinking maybe if the alcohol dosen't work...I should try to get some graphite and try that...if it has worked for you. Maybe you can clarify for me...and tell me where to get that stuff at.

    My Security light does not (or at least it has not done so yet) REMAIN ON...once the car starts up. Sounds like yours did that a couple times...before you fixed it.

    Lastly, it is good to know that the whole security can be bypassed. I wouldn't do it myself...but...I could probably find someone who could do that for me...if need be. I had a friend that helped me put a couple of new light fixtures in the house. He took down the old ones and wired up the new ones. Since it is wiring...maybe I could ask him. I suppose if you know what you are doing it would be fairly simple. Did you ever try this yourself?

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with me.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I wouldn't put anything mechanical into the key cylinder unless you are able to see into it with a light. I believe the contacts are just two wires on opposite sides that touch the resistor. Putting a q-tip in might push them away more and reduce good contact. I would just dip key into alcohol and quickly insert into cylinder repeatedly just to get alcohol onto the chip and then the contact wires.

    Clean the contact on the key resistor pellet with a pencil eraser. Then use the key. If you have repeated problems wtih not starting at all then you might want to look into the bypass. I might be able to find pictures to show what you're looking for at the bottom of the column and the resistor values to choose from. It requires working in cramped spaces lying on the floor of your car.

    I suspect you got something from your pocket or purse onto the key and then into the key cylinder. The more you use it and keep your keys clean the better it gets. That's been my experience. My problem is usually lint from my pocket on the key getting on the contacts. I've heard of someone who got icing from a cake onto their keys in their pocket (older gentleman) and got it into his key cylinder.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mtandstmtandst Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your reply...imidazol97 :)

    I suppose over 11 years time...my keys have probably got some build up of sorts...on them. I will start by cleaning them very well...with the method you suggested.

    Then I will try the alcohol on the key and then inserting into key cylinder...a few times.

    It didn't dawn on me until you mentioned the cake icing story...that I may have contaminated the inside of the key cylinder with the dirty key. DUH !!! :blush:

    Hopefully, this will work!

    However, if it dosen't I am interested in knowing more about the bypass method. If you are able to locate some pictures and more detailed info on the - how to's and resistor values you mentioned - PLEASE feel free to email them to me. :)

    Thanks so much for your time and your willingness to help others. It is very much appreciated. I hope to hear from you.
  • jjp1jjp1 Member Posts: 1
    Someone please help! I purchased a 2002 Bonneville with 22K miles on it from a dealership and on the way home, it started to vibrate at 60 MPH. I took it back and they balanced the tires with no results. I purchased new Michelins and had them road forced balanced with no luck. Come to find out, the dealership changed the rear main seal under the 36K mile warranty and then sold me the car. The original owner said he had no problems. Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    What Michelins did you put on?

    There were some problems with tire/wheel combination not rolling round causing vibrations in the suspension that were transmitted through the stiff chassis. The suspension parts have become lighter and more susceptible.

    Since they worked on the seal, did they lift the motor out of the cradle? Motor mount? Did they remove axles from the transmission. Were those not put back right and now causing a vibration.

    The car needs someone who can tell the difference between the types of vibration. Dealers have a vibration analyzer that attaches to different parts and is able to hint at souce of vibration.

    First thing to check would be a careful realignment by a knowledgeable person. That caused vibration on my 03 with Symmetry Michelins. Alignment might have been affected by lifting/removing the motor if that was needed for seal repair.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jredfieldjredfield Member Posts: 8
    I had a similar problem on my 2000 Bonneville SSEi. Turned out it was an idler arm going out. It was discovered during a routine state inspection. Maybe you have a similar problem.
  • jredfieldjredfield Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Bonneville SSEi and have a nagging problem at high speeds. When the boost gage reads 1 or 2 markes above the zero line, the car misses or feels like the transmition is having problems deciding whether to down shift or not. If I force a downshift by accelerating, the missing stops and it runs fine. Any ideas?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    How many miles on the plugs and wires? Over 60K I'd look at replacing them with OEM plugs and wires. Could be high load missing. It also might be something in the transmission, but I'd go for the obvious first.

    Wires age and yours are up to 7 years old if they've never been changed.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jredfieldjredfield Member Posts: 8
    Miles are ~86600. Plugs have just been replaced but the wires were not. Thanks for the tip. I will try the wires. The trans had some work done at around 50K.
    Jim
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    For replacements don't fall for fancy pictures on a box or concepts. Just get OEM type wires. Beldens have been good from NAPA. Or GMs from gmpartsdirect.com a discounter or rockauto.com.

    How recently were plugs replaced?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • craiginmainecraiginmaine Member Posts: 1
    I have a Y2K Bonny with the electronic load leveling fully extended. I'm not carrying a load and would like to know if I have to go to the dealer for a reset or is there a trick to convincing it there really isn't a load in the car. Some might like the rear of the car all the way up but I feel there is just too much air under the back end! Can anyone help me reduce the altitude of the rear end?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The car determines how high the rear is with a rod that's connected to the A-arm and goes to a cigarette pack sized sensor with a lever that goes up and down fastened to the body of the car. Crawl under the left rear, I think it's left, and you'll find that rod is probably disconnected.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jredfieldjredfield Member Posts: 8
    Thanks again. The plugs were replaced at around 70K miles.
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    Hi, everybody.
    I've had my '96 Bonneville for almost 6 years and now it seems to be dying.
    For the past 2-3 years my AC compressor was making a jingling noise (but I can live with that). Transmission vibrates from time to time at about 60 mph (the test showed "Transmission component slipping"), but other than that it runs fine.
    But the 2 major issues are - Recently I had to add coolant about 1 liter every couple of weeks. So I found out that it needs new intake manifold gaskets. I was going to do it and then last week the engine started to make some strange loud ticking noise, the more RPM I give it, the faster the ticking. And the sound comes and goes, meaning that I may start the car, and it's fine, but next time the ticking is back.
    When I took it to the shop (Meineke) to replace the gaskets the guy there told me that the sound is most likely caused by a bent piston rod (I think that's what he meant) or a lifter. They ran a pressure test and a combustion test and it didn't show anything other than a coolant leak.
    They want at least $170 just for the labor to open the engine, and then it may run into thousands. The car obviously isn't worth it.
    Does anybody have any idea how bad it is and what can I do?
    I have to make a 300-miles trip next month and don't want to get stuck on the highway with a jammed engine.
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    Looks like I had a similar problem with my '96 one. When it was idling, it seemed like the engine was choking.
    Got EGR Valve replaced at a shop ($240). I have other problems, but that one seems to be cured.
  • deb_09876_7deb_09876_7 Member Posts: 1
    i having a few problems with my 1995 bonneville ssei some of the gages go wako on me they keep going on and off and the car seems like its getting to much gas, acks like it wants to stop running this has been going on for awhile don't know what this could be
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need to go to a competent repair shop. A car can't run with a "bent rod", that is impossible. Why are you thinking about engine work at a muffler shop?

    Sounds like lifter noise, possibly from coolant contamination of your oil.

    You might drop your oil and examine it or pull the valve covers off and see what's up.

    How do you know the intake gaskets are leaking?
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    The problem is that I am new in this town and don't know any reliable mechanic. By the recommendation of my landlord I went to a CITGO gas station shop (AAA approved) and this SOB wanted to charge me 130 bucks just for the gaskets that cost 36 at the store. So I picked Meineke, because it's a chain, and the overall price was 130 dollars less.
    How I know that the gaskets are leaking? I did the pressure test twice (a few months ago and recently) and when they put the radiator under pressure, the coolant leaked from the engine seams above the belt pullies.
    I've never done anything on this car myself. So, how do I get to these valve covers, and do I need any special tools? Is there some special procedure?
    What signs should I look for in the oil?
  • jredfieldjredfield Member Posts: 8
    Thanks to all who contributed answers to my question about down shift hesitation. I replaced the plug wires with OEM wires and the car runs GREAT!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you may have to keep asking around for a good repair shop. That "bent rod" story really got my suspicions up.

    Anyway, you can check for oil contamination by pulling your dipstick and looking for a milky white substance mixed in with the clear amber colored oil----a streaking of white, like milk mixed in with the oil. That is the reaction of coolant + water + oil, producing the white sludge. If you see this, this would definitely cause lifter noise.

    Probably your best bet is to get the intake gaskets replaced, flush your oil and coolant, and hope for the best that the other noises will go away.
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks a lot, Mr. Shiftright,
    That's a relief. Seems, it's still not so bad.
    I checked the oil recently. I didn't notice any foreign matter there, but it's pretty dark, almost black, although I ran only 1500 miles since last change. So I guess I will have to flush the system and change it anyway.
    And maybe you are right and there might be some water in there, because I had some trouble recently starting it up in a really cold weather. Seemed like it was choking for a few seconds and then smoothed up.
    What do you think about that sealant stuff sold at the stores that you pour in the radiator to stop the leak? Is it any good?
    Anyway, I'll check all the issues you mentioned.
    Thanks again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Great!
    Always start with the simples and easiest solution then work toward the harder ones~!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Your coolant could be leaking at a hose connection, from the waterpump bleed hole inside and under the pulley, from the heater core, etc., not just intake manifold gaskets or cracks internally. When you pressure tested did coolant shop up anywhere?

    You state in a later post that your oil is very dark after 1500 miles? HOw much time was that from the oil change and what kind of driving did you do? Lots of short trips?

    Since you may have a lifter making noise, I would change my oil and filter at 12-1500 miles and get a couple of changes of good fresh oil in there dissolving deposites with the fresh additives.

    Let us know what results you get.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    After you mentioned it, I just realized that there was some issue with my waterpump. That's when they first did that pressure test, and I actually had to replace the waterpump that time (last summer). It was leaking coolant around the pump, but now it seems to be O'K. However the engine is all wet along the seams of the intake manifold cover on top.
    I wasn't present during the second test, so can't tell, but his printout says the gaskets are leaking.
    I checked the oil on the probe. It looks fine.
    Also, I didn't mention it before but it seems to exhaust more smoke than normal, and during the cold days the condensate was making a whole puddle under my exhaust pipe.
    So, what do you think about that sealant compound? Should I try using it, or just replace the gaskets?
    Thanks.
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    I forgot to mention my driving. Since August (last oil change) I did 7 300-mile trips and the rest is very short trips, like 1 to 5 miles a day. So I had obviously mistaken about 1500 miles, it's been 2500, so it's time to change it anyway.
    What do you think about dealer shops, like those GM Goodwrench? I heard that they usually charge a lot? Would you recommend going to them?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not a big fan of using something in a can to fix an engine problem....I mean, if you think about it, this is basically a last ditch act of desperation. So if you have no other alternative, I guess you could try it, but really you need a) first of all a good diagnosis by a trained mechanic and b) the right solution for a lasting repair.

    Water vapor out the tailpipe isn't necessarily a bad sign at all---water is natural by-product of the combustion of gasoline. But lots of WHITE smoke, (LOTS) after the engine is warmed up, is a sure sign of coolant being burned in the combustion chambers.
  • bonneville96bonneville96 Member Posts: 28
    The car does seem to smoke excessively, but it's not too bad after it warms up, and I wouldn't call it WHITE.
    But I had to add another quart of coolant yesterday after just 2 weeks and 20-30 miles of driving.

    I agree with you about the right solution and a lasting repair. I don't like quick fixes as well. As I said, the problem is that it is almost impossible to find a specialist in this godforsaken town, Concord, NH (although it's a state capital). Sorry, if I offend any locals. I'll probably go to the dealership, see what they say, and then figure out where to do it.
  • kerukeru Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 anniversary eddition bonniville w/ the 3800. The fuse box was emptied and the panel and owners manual removed. Does any one have a diagram of the fuse box so I know what fuses to get and where they go? Thanx guys.

    Kevin
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Does the cover of the fuse box have a list of the fuse sizes and what each services?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bilmccbilmcc Member Posts: 2
    If the temperature flashes on your electronic display, it is most likely the air door mix actuator (part# 16141822 - about $40 delivered from RockAuto.com). I just replaced mine this week and the flashing of the display has stopped. You can tell if you need to replace it by removing your glove box insert and looking through a small hole in a support brace behind the box watch to see if the lever and metal bar are hanging up or not moving at all - Normal operation is that the lever and rod will move smoothly back and forth depending on the temperature set on the elect. control. Yes, you might be able to move it using either a screw driver or hanger but most likely it will move again since the actuator is going to try to set the right mix of heat and outside air for the temperature set on the electronic control. Changing the part is NOT EASY, but can be done. There is the correct way; removing the dash and changing it, or the way (that I used) is to drill/cut the support brace behind the glove box and work through a small hole. If you go to the dealer to get it replaced be prepared for about a $700-$800 :cry: repair.
  • bilmccbilmcc Member Posts: 2
    I am not getting heat on the drivers side (or out the rear console outlets) of my 1996 Bonneville SSE. I am sure that the heat is working since I am getting heat from the passengers side just fine.

    Any Ideas?
    Thanks
  • jonkaijonkai Member Posts: 1
    i bought this car used and no one knows what type of refrigerant it takes. r-12 or 134a. please help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    R12 if it's a 1992 model.

    And yes, it is available, and yes it is legal to use (if you are a licensed AC shop but not if you are a consumer) and yes it is pretty expensive and yes you can convert to R134 but that's not cheap to do either.
  • 87bonneville87bonneville Member Posts: 3
    Well, NO , I didn't but on your advice I have gotten one from a dealer now, from AC Delco, and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem either. Now what? Could it be a MAF sensor? How to test that, anyone know? Thanks for any help anyone suggests!
  • jk119885jk119885 Member Posts: 2
    We purchased the 2003 Bonneville in March 06 we enjoy this car very much. My problem is the dust it is everywhere. When you open the doors you have dust around the inside of the doors. Inside the car you have dust around the handles and the vents on the front doors. We have dust around the handles in the back also. We were told this car was not wrecked or flooded. Is this a design problem can it be fixed if so HOW. I enjoy this car other than the dust. I have a medical problem with my lungs.
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    Have you checked whether the cabin air filter is busted? If you don't that it exists and given that it should be replaced yearly, chances are it's busted.

    But the dust around doors cannot be eliminated if you live in a dusty area.

    HTH
Sign In or Register to comment.